tft lcd color monitor no signal manufacturer

So I bought yet another Raspberry Pi and got a 7" Car Montor (http://amzn.to/1XRvw0Y) with it. I"ve soldered the monitor to a 12V 1Amp Wart and it seems to be working perfect. However, when I hook up the Raspberry Pi 2 Model B the monitor receives no signal.

I have no old video or dvd player so I can"t test it today. Tomorrow I"m stopping by my parents in law to check it out with an old VCR player to see if the signal is OK and it"s some setting with my Raspberry Pi.

Dell Technologies recommends ensuring that the device drivers and BIOS are up to date using the SupportAssist application for optimal video performance and to help resolve common video-related issues.

NOTE: When SupportAssist does not show up in the search results, go to the SupportAssist for PCs and tablets page for information about downloading and installing SupportAssist.

To learn how to manually download and install a device driver such as Chipset, Video card (GPU), and Monitor driver (if required, most monitor drivers are delivered automatically through Windows Update) on your Dell computer, see the Dell knowledge base article How to Download and Install Dell Drivers.

It is essential to verify if the problem is inherent with the monitor, video card (GPU) or video settings on your computer. A straightforward way to identify this is to connect the computer to a known-good external monitor or TV and ensure that the display cable (S-video, VGA, DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C, or Thunderbolt 3) is firmly connected to the video port on the computer and the monitor.

If the issue persists on the other monitor it may be due to the video card (GPU) or video settings and not the monitor, go to the step Verify display or video issue in Windows Safe Mode. Else go to the next step.

Performance issues may occur if there is any type of damage that is caused to the display cables or the LCD screen. LCD screen may show that symptoms like LCD screen stops working, work intermittently, color mismatch, flickering, display horizontal or vertical lines if there is damage to the display cables or the LCD screen.

If you do notice a physical damage, contact Dell Technical Support to learn more about repair options that are available in your region. If there is no damage, go to the next step.

Dell monitors provide a self-test feature check (SFTC) and an integrated self-test (BIST) or integrated diagnostic (BID) tool that helps determine if the screen abnormality you are experiencing is an inherent problem with the Dell monitor or with the video card (GPU) and computer settings.

When you notice screen abnormalities like flickering, distortion, clarity issues, fuzzy or blurry image, horizontal or vertical lines, color fade, it is a good practice to isolate the monitor by running a diagnostic test on the Dell monitor.

To learn more about running a diagnostic test on your Dell monitor, see the Dell knowledge base article How to Run a Diagnostic Test on a Dell Monitor.

NOTE: Self-test feature check (SFTC) helps check if the Dell monitor is working normally as a stand-alone device. To check for screen abnormalities such as flickering, distortion, clarity issues, fuzzy or blurry image, horizontal or vertical lines, color fade, and so on, run the integrated self-test (BIST) or integrated diagnostic (BID) test.

NOTE: In certain Dell monitors, the integrated self-test (BIST) or integrated diagnostics (BID) can be run only when one or more video cables are unplugged and the Dell monitor is in self-test mode.

Dell monitors can be reset to factory default settings using the on-screen display (OSD) menu. This can be accessed using the buttons or joystick that is available on the Dell monitor. For step-by-step instructions to reset a Dell monitor to factory default settings, see the User Guide of your Dell monitor at the Dell Manuals website.

Windows Safe Mode allows us to identify if the issue is related to the operating system, video settings, device drivers, or a third-party software. To learn more about how to boot your Dell computer into Safe Mode, see the Dell knowledge base article that is listed below based on the operating system that is installed on your computer:

Display settings like brightness, refresh rate, resolution, and power management may affect the performance of your Dell monitor. Changing the display settings can help resolve several types of video issues.

To learn more about changing the brightness, refresh rate and resolution on a Dell computer, see the Dell knowledge base article How to Change the Video Settings or Improve Text in Windows 10.

If you find that the Dell touch-capable monitor is unresponsive to touch or touch works intermittently, you can try some common troubleshooting steps to help fix the issue.

NOTE: Connect the USB upstream cable from your Dell touch-capable monitor to a working USB port on the computer. This is essential for the touch feature to work.

Stress Test can thoroughly diagnose the video card (GPU) on your computer and report any potential hardware problem. Running a stress test on your computer can verify if the hardware components are stable and thus reliable.

If the diagnostic tests on the Dell monitor and video card (GPU) passed, it is most definitely an issue that is related to software that is installed on your computer. If the above troubleshooting steps did not resolve the issue, to restore your computer to factory defaults as a last resort.

A "No Signal" error indicates that your monitor is not receiving any signal from your video card. Although this can be caused by a defective video card, if you have already changed the card and are still receiving the same error, the problem lies with another component. The most likely cause is the cable used to connect your monitor and video card, as it might either be faulty or even plugged into the wrong port. The monitor display mode and video card slot on your monitor could also potentially cause the problem.

Faulty Cable Check to see if the cable that connects your video card with your monitor is secure. The cable could potentially have come out of the socket when moving either the monitor or computer case, so check both ends. Check the length of the cable for signs of physical damage that could be causing the problem. Also check the connector pins to ensure that none are bent or broken. A faulty cable could cause intermittent problems, such as displaying incorrect colors, but if the damage is severe enough it will result in no signal.

Monitor Set to Incorrect Video Mode Modern monitors and high-definition televisions have a variety of input sources that can be used to connect to video cards. If your monitor allows you to select the input source, ensure that you are using the one that is matching the cable you are using to connect to computer. For example, if you are connecting your video card using a VGA cable, do not set the monitor display mode to DVI or HDMI. This can be the cause of the problem if your monitor does not automatically detect the input source that you are using. Consult the user guide for your monitor for instructions on how to change the display mode.

Faulty Monitor If you have changed the video and are sure that the cables are not at fault, the problem could be with the monitor. Connect your computer with another monitor to check the results. If you do not have another computer monitor, you may be able to connect your video card to a television. Most modern flat screen televisions have inputs such as VGA, DVI and HDMI that can be used to connect your computer. If you receive the same error when connecting to another display device, you can move on to troubleshooting other components of the computer.

Faulty Video Card Slot If your video card is not seated properly, or if it"s inserted into an incorrect slot on your motherboard, it will not function correctly. Check your motherboard manual to ensure that the slots on your motherboard are compatible with the video card. If you had to force the video card into the slot, it might have become damaged. Also check that the cable from the power supply unit is plugged in to your video card. Many newer video cards require PCI-E power cables to be connected for proper operation. If your motherboard has an onboard video card, use this to check whether the fault lies with the cable or monitor.

A monitor is connected to the computer but does not display anything. Use the steps in this document to resolve this issue or to determine if the monitor is defective.

With the monitor plugged in, press the power button on the monitor. There should be a power indicator light located on the monitor case. What happens to the light?

If power light remains off when you press the power button, either the monitor is not receiving power or the monitor is defective. Check all of the following items before attempting to service or replace the monitor:

If a message appears on the monitor, the display panel is working and the problem is related to the video signal. For further troubleshooting steps, see Message about No Signal, Signal out of Range, Sleep, or Power Save.

Check for bent or broken connector pins or broken pins that have become lodged inside the holes of the video connector on the computer. With the monitor and computer off, straighten bent pins with a small metal tube, like the tip of an empty mechanical pencil or the tip of a retracted pen. If any of the pins have broken off from the cable and are stuck in the small holes of the video connector (on the computer), remove the broken pins using a metal sewing pin (or similar metal pin that is thin and has a point).

Connect another video cable to the computer and monitor. If possible use a different cable. For example, if your monitor has an HDMI connector and a DVI connector, use the other cable type if possible. If not, use a new cable of the same type.

If the monitor remains blank, connect the monitor to another computer using a different cable to determine if the monitor is bad. Skip to the Step connect the monitor to another computer.

Find the native display resolution for your monitor in the User Manual or in the product specifications for the monitor model. If you are unable to find the native display resolution for your monitor model, temporarily use 1024x768 for troubleshooting purposes.

If you are satisfied with the new display settings, click Yes on the Monitor Settings windows. If you are not satisfied or if the screen just goes black, wait: Windows sets the screen back to the way it was before. Try another setting until you find a display configuration that is compatible with the monitor and meets your needs.

If the native resolution is not available, download and install updated video driver software for your computer. Updating the video driver software can add more resolutions (graphics modes).

If the monitor works, the video hardware on the original computer is likely to be the source of the problems. You can try connecting the original computer to another monitor that works to update its video drivers.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

If the CRT is the problem, it is often not worth repairing. If the CRT is out of warranty, parts and labor may cost more than buying a new CRT, which also gives you better specs and a warranty. About the only CRTs we"d even consider repairing out-of-warranty are high-end 21" or larger models, and even there the economics are dubious.

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

Never disassemble a CRT. At best, you may destroy the CRT. At worst, it may destroy you. Like televisions, CRTs use extremely high voltages internally, and have large capacitors that store that energy for days or even weeks after the CRT is unplugged. Robert once literally burned a screwdriver in half when working inside a color television that had been unplugged for several days. Also, the large, fragile tube may implode, scattering glass fragments like a hand grenade. People who repair CRTs and televisions for a living treat them with great respect, and so should you. If you must repair a CRT, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You have been warned.

Check the obvious things first. Verify that the CRT is plugged in (and that the receptacle has power), the video cable is connected to the video card, the computer and CRT are turned on, and the brightness and contrast settings are set to the middle of their range. If none of these steps solves the problem, your CRT, video card, or video cable may be bad. Check the suspect CRT on a known-good system or a known-good CRT on the problem system.

This is a hardware problem with one of the electron guns. Replace the CRT. This problem may also manifest as a strong color cast during normal operation that is not correctable using the normal color balance controls.

Catastrophic CRT failure is imminent. The noises are caused by high-voltage arcing, and the smell is caused by burning insulation. Unplug the CRT from the wall before it catches fire, literally.

This is usually a minor hardware problem. The most likely cause is that the signal cable is not connected tightly to the CRT and/or video card, causing some pins to make contact intermittently or not at all. Verify that no pins are loose, bent, or missing on the cable or the connectors on the CRT and video card, and then tighten the cable at both ends, If that doesn"t fix the problem, open the computer, remove the video card, and reseat it fully.

In elderly systems, another possible cause is that some hardware DVD decoder cards "steal" one color (usually magenta) and use it to map the DVD video signal onto the standard video signal. Remove the DVD decoder card. If your video adapter includes hardware DVD support, or if you are upgrading to such an adapter, you don"t need a DVD decoder card.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

Depending on the CRT, video card, and video settings, this may be normal behavior, adjustable using the CRT controls. If the distortion is beyond the ability of the controls to correct, the problem may be with the video card, the CRT, or the driver. First try changing video settings. If the problem persists at several settings, move that CRT to a different system (or use a different video card) to determine whether the problem is caused by the CRT or video card. Repair or replace the faulty component.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

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