mac lcd panel damage lop right sceeen made in china

just to recap quickly: one day I turned on my laptop and there was a big nasty crack down the screen running from the top in a jagged line across to the side. the machine was never dropped, hit or abused in any way, so to anyone out there who doubts that this kind of thing can just happen... well, it can.

anyway, after taking the machine to an authorised repair centre, instead of contacting apple for a warranty repair as I"d asked them to do, they just sent me a quote to replace the screen at a cost of around 950€. now, if I"d dropped my computer, or some accident had happened to it, I would have just had to swallow it and accept that this is how things go. but seeing as nothing like that had ever happened, it"s a little harder to come around to thinking you are going to have to shell out for something that obviously was defective and snapped all of its own accord. the repair centre suggested that if I wasn"t happy with the quote I should take it up directly with apple..

so, I called apple france the next day and explained the situation. it was a little tricky because my MBP is now a month or so out of warranty, however it was still under warranty at the date when I handed it over for repair. so fortunately I had documentation to prove that. after a lengthy conversation and being put on hold a couple of times, the consultant told me that they would need to speak with the technician that had assessed the machine. if the technician would verify that there were no signs of abuse on the computer, they"d replace the display under warranty. so they put me on hold again and called the repair centre. when they got back to me, the confirmed that whatever happened to my display was not the result of any damage accidental or otherwise, and they would authorise repair under warranty.

there was one additional factor that may have played in my favour in this whole story.. when I bought the computer (online from the apple store) and it was delivered, the first thing I noticed about the machine was that the display wasn"t very good. it had badly uneven backlighting, was not evenly sharp all over and was generally not up to the standard I would expect in a top of the line machine.. so, I immediately called apple and told them this. they offered me a DOA which is "dead on arrival", the right to have the machine replaced for an entirely new one within 14 days of receiving it. at the time since it was the very first batch of the core 2 duo machines, I didn"t want to run the risk of getting a new machine that might have had something else wrong with it. a sub-standard display I could live with as long as the rest of the machine was in good working order, which it was.. better that than have a dodgy hard drive or worse. so, they created a detailed record on my call, with a reference number etc. basically it said that I had decided to keep the machine but that I felt the display had issues, and that during the warranty period I was going to consider asking for the display to be replaced if I felt that whatever quality issues they had with the early machine"s displays were worked out later.

next time I am definitely getting apple care, because I knew all along that there was something up with my machine, and if it had died after the warranty ran out, it would have been a bit unpleasant let"s say.

"Following our telephone discussion earlier, I have been in discussion with apple and this type of fault or defect unfortunately is not covered on warranty. They have cited certain probabilities which you cannot ascertain if they did happen or notPressure on the LCD – this could happen when the product is carried in a bag

My Macbook Pro 13-inch 2017 touchbar model also started showing this issue around two months ago. I did not take it to repair service (and now, with COVID-19 pandemic, it will probably take longer to do so), and I"ve been closely monitoring it to understand what might be happening.

Once the problem starts, it will get worse and worse until you close the lid and leave it to cool down. Until now, the problem completely disappeared after cooling down. It did not leave any permanent damage to my screen, no matter how bad it looked before.

I also installed Macs Fan Control and tried using the notebook with 100% fans speed and with the notebook cooler. It did not prevent the problem to appear either.

But no matter how worse my screen looked like before putting the machine to sleep, it always came back to normal after some 4 hours resting (between 30 minutes to 4 hours, all seems ok, except that you can still see some of the last burned content overlaying the current screen content, almost like a water mark).

I have a strong feeling that this is not solely related to temperature, because it looks like the more time I let my machine sleeping, the more time I can use it before the lines start appearing. I have this feeling because if I leave it sleeping for about a day and start using it with full GPU power, the issue takes more time to show up than if I do the same after just 4 hours of sleep. Also, if I wait just 30 minutes, the black lines all disappeared and they will come back very, very fast (less than 10 minutes). Once, I have not used my machine for two days and I started using it in a very hot day (over 30ºC), and the problem took a long time to start appearing.

As another user pointed out, putting ice behind the bottom of the screen makes the black lines disappear almost instantly (just to reappear a couple of minutes later). But if you used the machine for enough time and the content started to get burned at the bottom of the screen, then you will also see these burned lines get stronger. So it seems to me that temperature alone doesn"t explain the whole situation. Sometimes I almost feel like it is a software/firmware problem, as if a slow overflow of information would start corrupting the data being written in the screen buffer, but this is just a barely supported suspicion.

The 2010-2017 MacBook Air was a popular model while it was in production. The lightweight, long battery life, and affordable price point made them a great buy for a large group of people. This model is aging quite well and has very few issues. They continue to be a very usable computer, especially for people who don’t need a lot of power to meet their computing needs.

I have an article with all the common issues I see on this particular model MacBook Air if you want to learn more about the machine. See my A1466 MacBook Air common issues page for detailed information on what may happen as your computer ages.

One of the issues these MacBook Airs do have is a fragile display. The LCD panel is more easily cracked than other models of Macs, and the repair options are more difficult due to the design of the screen. The light design is partly to blame, as well as the thin design of the display assembly itself.

The cost of repairing common MacBook Air issues is generally very affordable, especially as the computer ages. For screen repairs, the cost of a professional repairis quite affordable.

When it comes to the A1466 MacBook Air, you have two options for screen repair. You can either replace just the cracked LCD (as long as the display assembly is still in good shape), or you can replace the entire display assembly.

Replacing the entire display assembly is what Apple offers at the Apple Store, as it is a much easier method than replacing the LCD panel only. Replacing the LCD panel only is a difficult procedure that requires a lot of skill and patience. Usually replacing the display assembly is faster, but not always.

I will cover both methods of MacBook Air screen repair in this article. I will start with the easier and more expensive display assembly replacement, then move on to the more difficult, but cheaper, LCD-only repair. But first, we will go over some reasons you may choose one type of repair over another.

There are a few reasons you might need to replace the entire display assembly rather than just the LCD panel. I have an article I wrote about the types of damage done to a MacBook that would make the screen need repair, but the two main issues are liquid damage and dents.

Basically, if the display assembly is damaged to a point where it should be replaced, then replacing the entire display assembly is going to be the best way forward. The display assembly includes the LCD panel, back housing, bezel, iSight, hinges, and more.

If there is liquid damage that caused the screen to not work properly, it is very likely that the components inside the display assembly are damaged which is best to repair by replacing the entire display assembly. If there are major dents or a bend to the display housing, then a new LCD panel will likely not fit nicely into the original display assembly.

It is very rare to have to replace the display assembly. Over 95% of the people who contact me looking for a MacBook Air screen repair just require an LCD replacement.

LCD panel replacement is by far the most common type of service that is necessary for a MacBook Air screen repair. Generally, the LCD panel is cracked or broken in some way, and by replacing the LCD panel we are able to fix the computer completely.

There are many ways that the LCD panel in a MacBook Air can fail, but the most common is cracking or bending to the point of cracking. The bending on this model can even come from something as simple as opening and closing the computer from the corner of the display instead of the center.

While LCD replacement on a 2010-2017 MacBook Air is a much more difficult job than replacing the display assembly, it does save you a lot of money to perform this repair. Due to the difficulty in completing this repair, I do recommend you utilize a good repair shop to complete it for you.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the display assembly for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out for how to tell what years are compatible with which display assemblies, places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome, and more.

Apple uses odd screws on their MacBook Air line (and most of their laptops created after 2011). These more specialty screws require more specialty screwdrivers that you are not likely to have laying around the house. The tools needed for the display assembly replacement are:

Usually, the most important aspect of anyone’s computer is the data that is stored on it. Be sure you back up any important data before completing any repair. It is best to always have a backup of your important data, but you want to double-check that absolutely everything you would want is backed up before opening the machine up.

This is where it starts getting exciting. Remove the screws from the bottom of your laptop and place them in the order that you removed them. This will help you remember which screw goes where. The only ones that are really important to get right are the two longer screws that go right above the text printed on the bottom of the computer.

Once the screws are removed, you can lift the bottom cover off the MacBook Air as shown in the picture below. Simply grasp the bottom cover from right behind where the two long screws came out, and lift it towards yourself. There are a few plastic tabs holding the cover in place, so it does take some force to remove the bottom cover.

Lift directly up on the connections of this cable to lift it out of its connection. As the picture shows it can be helpful to use two spudgers or the spudger and tweezers to complete this step. Just be extra careful not to damage the cable during the removal. If you are going to use the tweezers for one side, have them be on the outside of the connector as shown, that way you don’t scratch the cable at all.

As you probably noticed above, 2010, 2011, and 2012 models of the MacBook Air have the iSight cable connected to the IO board that you just removed. If you have one of the 2013, 2014, 2015, or 2017 models, you will remove the iSight cable from the logic board.

If there are any issues with the tests above, you can refer to my troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air. I cover common repair issues and how to fix them in depth.

Congratulations on completing the display repair on your MacBook Air! Let me know how it went, and if my instructions helped you enough that you want to show your gratitude with remuneration, I would love it if you bought me a donut!

First, a word of warning: this repair is considered difficult even by full-time technicians. To become proficient at this particular repair requires a lot of practice. I personally practiced on damaged display assemblies that were bent or liquid damaged until I had mastered the procedure… but it was still very difficult to complete until I had done about 50+ repairs. If you are a beginner, this repair might end up causing more frustration than it is worth.

Finding a new LCD panel to replace your cracked or failed LCD can be difficult. There are sellers on eBay and Amazon that source LCD panels that are grade B or have visual defects, then when you install it into your computer and notice the issue (after hours of work) they say you caused the damage. For this reason, it is best to go with a reputable repair shop to source the part.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the LCD panel for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out to find places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome and more.

The same tools are used to disassemble the MacBook Air as with the display assembly repair, but for LCD replacement you will also need a couple of additional tools and some special adhesive. The tools needed for the LCD panel replacement are:

Be sure to set aside plenty of time for this repair. I recommend splitting it into two parts. You start with the display replacement guide above to get the display off the computer, then rest and do something fun for a few hours, then come back to this guide to replace the LCD panel on your display. Overall I recommend setting aside an entire day for this repair.

It is much easier to do this repair with the display assembly removed from the computer. My display replacement guide above will get you through to having the display separate from the computer, then you move on to the process of removing the LCD panel itself from the display assembly.

The bezel is the silver strip that surrounds the screen on these A1466 MacBook Airs. Note that the bezel is held in place by a very strong adhesive, so the goal here is to heat up the adhesive to make removing the bezel easier.

In my experience, a temperature of around 300 degrees with a small air nozzle works really well. Keep the nozzle close to the center of the bezel and work your way around using movements as shown in the video. It is important to not let the heat stay in one area too long. You want to take care not to melt the rubber gasket that surrounds the screen and also to not cause damage to the backlight sheets that are just under the LCD panel.

You run the knife under the bezel starting at the bottom right corner of the screen. Work your way up and around until you have cut the adhesive between the bezel and the LCD panel all the way around the screen. Take extra care around the iSight camera. Just to the left of the iSight camera is the iSight camera board which is easily damaged during this process. Also, take extra care at the bottom left of the screen, this is where the iSight cable is easily nicked during the process.

There are 5 screws along the bottom of the LCD panel that are covered in little black pieces of tape. Use your tweezers to remove those pieces of tape, and then remove the screws. There are also two black screws holding down the inverter board at the bottom of the LCD. These two screws also get removed.

This is another part of the repair where you need to relax and take your time. Use the hot air and small nozzle to heat up the right-hand side of the LCD, right where it connects to the edge of the display assembly. There is a 2mm piece of double-sided tape under this area that is holding the LCD down.

I like to angle the hot air towards the edge of the screen and move it along pretty quickly, in order to keep the backlight sheets directly under the LCD from getting damaged.

Once the edge is warmed up, use your painting knife to slide under the screw post on the farthest right side of the display. This will lift the display just a little and cause upward pressure on the LCD panel. Keep heating the edge of the LCD panel until you see it start to lift a little, then work just the edge of a business card into the gab, and slowly move the business card up to separate the LCD from the housing.

This part of the repair takes a while, you want to work in sections, so heat up the tape holding down the LCD panel, then move the card a little bit up, then heat up the next area, and move the card up a little more. The better you do this part the easier the rest of the repair will be, so take your time.

You will continue this process until you are done with the right side and top of the display. For the left-hand side, there is a slightly different process.

The left-hand side of the LCD panel is held down by a larger piece of adhesive, this makes it quite a bit more difficult to use the business card method. For this part of the project, you will first heat the left side of the LCD where the adhesive is, then apply upward pressure by lifting on the right-hand side of the LCD panel.

Lift the right-hand side of the LCD panel very, very, very slowly while continually moving your heat up and down the left side of the LCD. This will allow the LCD to pull free of the tape, or the tape to pull free of the housing.

Now that the LCD panel is removed, you can see the piece of metal along the bottom that the screws were screwed into. This piece of metal needs to be moved back into the display assembly so it is ready for your new LCD panel to be installed.

Heat up the metal as it is attached with the same tape as the LCD panel was attached with, then use your painting knife to get between the metal and the LCD. This is usually pretty easy after just completing the more difficult LCD removal process.

This is where your 1mm tape comes into play! You want to replace any of the black tape that was damaged or removed during the process so far so you can install the new LCD and have adhesive around the whole thing.

I like to start by replacing any tape that was removed from the metal piece that sits below the LCD panel at the bottom of the assembly, then carefully put that metal piece back into the housing and screw it in as shown in the pictures. Note that the adhesive you just put in faces up towards you.

First, you want to use your can of compressed air to carefully blow any dust from the backlight sheets before installing the new LCD. Take care to not let those sheets get moved around in the process. They need to sit exactly where they are.

Remove any backing from the adhesive that you installed, and also remove the backing from the LCD panel. You can leave the plastic on the front of the LCD panel, but be sure you remove it from the back before installing.

Then you want to line up the circles on the top right and left of the display with the cross hairs on the LCD panel. Once those are lined up you can slowly sink the LCD into the housing, then gently run your finger around the whole LCD panel along the edge to make sure the adhesive is attached to the LCD panel as well as the back housing.

I like to install these so the flex cable is under the board instead of over as it was in the beginning. I have found by installing it this way, you decrease the number of issues with those flex cables being damaged over time.

Apply the 12mm tape all around the LCD assembly. Note you want 1-2mm of the tape to cover the LCD panel to help keep it in place. Cut a small piece of the 12mm tape to go above the sight camera. Be sure to leave the area to the left of the camera open where the light sensor is located. The pictures show how it should look when you have completed the work.

Remove all the backing from the tape and install the bezel. I like to start by lining up the top right and left of the bezel, then letting it drop in just like I did with the LCD panel. Gently push on the LCD around the edges to make sure the adhesive is sealed.

Now that the repair is done it is time to test your MacBook Air. There are a few things that the display assembly does that you want to be sure to test.

If there are any issues with the tests above, you can refer to my troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air. I cover common repair issues and how to fix them in depth.

Congratulations on completing the display repair on your MacBook Air! Let me know how it went, and if my instructions helped you enough that you want to show your gratitude with remuneration, I would love it if you bought me a donut!

If you have just read through this guide and decided you would rather have somebody else do the project for you, please consider letting me repair your Mac screen! I have completed literally thousands of these Mac screen repairs, and have them down to a science. I keep my overhead low and provide a quality service for an affordable price.

I would love to help you get your MacBook Air back up and running properly. If you would like me to repair anything on your computer, you can either go through filling out the order form for a MacBook Air repair, or you can use my quick quote form to get a quote on the project you would like to have done.

Spilled water on MacBook is a very common Mac disaster. Don’t worry. Follow this step-by-step guide to save your liquid spill MacBook or reduce the repair cost significantly by doing a few simple steps.

IT-Tech Online is a Mac repair specialist who repairs hundreds of water-damaged MacBooks annually. Our pleasure to share tips and tactics to prevent common mistakes and increase the survival chance of your water-damaged MacBook.

You may choose to repair the Mac if it has already been damaged or if you need to recover data from the liquid-damaged MacBook. We will discuss your repair options, costs and the services available on the market, including Apple Stores and independent repair stores.

Whatever you do, it is critical to shut down the MacBook immediately and don’t turn it on to see if it’s still working until you finish the steps below.

Hold down the power button for at least five seconds until the power is off, and then release the button. Forget about any unsaved documents, don’t even open the Apple menu to shut down the MacBook like you usually do. The sooner you cut off the power, the safer your  MacBook will be and your priceless data in it.

If you can’t turn off the MacBook by holding the power button, the MacBook keyboard has already stopped functioning. The keyboard cannot send the software-level “Force Shutdown" command to the MacBook logic board.

Quickly use tissues to absorb the liquid you can see on the MacBook keyboard, touchpad and screen, then close the lid straight away. By doing so, you effectively activate the hardware-level sleep sensor. The MacBook will cut off the power to the CPU, screen, SSD drive, RAM and most of the supporting circuits in about one minute.

Sometimes even if you close the lid for a while, the MacBook is still on. You can see the light from the Apple logo on the screen or hear the noise from the cooling fans. This is not a good sign. The MacBook’s logic board is failing and out of control. But most of the time, the damage is minor. If you can quickly disconnect the charger and the internal battery (described in step 7) from the logic board, your MacBook still has a good chance of survival.

Unplugging the charger alone will not cut the MacBook’s power off. The internal MacBook battery will continue to power the Mac. This is why you should use the power button to shut down the MacBook before unplugging the charger.

Now you have turned off almost all circuits in your Mac. The only remaining “ON" circuit is the “standby" circuit which is still powered by the internal battery. You will learn how to disconnect the battery in step 7.

A logic board is also known as a motherboard or main board. It is a major component of your MacBook, consisting of thousands of electronic chips on a printed circuit board. If the logic board is dead, then your MacBook is dead.

At this point, don’t move the MacBook yet. You must absorb all the water before moving your Mac to a dry place. Moving the MacBook with water still on it will help distribute the liquid to the critical part, such as the logic board.

If the water has entered the vent holes and you move the MacBook, it is almost certain the water will instantly reach the logic board. Protecting the logic board is the most crucial step to minimise liquid damage to a MacBook.

Most liquid spill MacBooks failed due to the water reaching the logic board from the vent holes. This is why blocking the water from the vent holes is very important. Water may also enter from the gaps of the touchpad, USB ports, charging port, Thunderbolt port and HDMI port. Since these gaps are tiny, the water won’t get to the logic board instantly.

It’s time to absorb the liquid you spilled on your MacBook. Use a paper towel or cotton fabric to absorb the water on the keyboard, trackpad and touch bar. You may use a microfiber cloth to absorb liquid without scratching your MacBook screen.

Finally, put a cotton fabric under the MacBook to absorb any liquid left on the bottom of the MacBook. Remember, don’t turn over the MacBook to clean the bottom. It would be best to minimise the water movement outside and inside the MacBook.

Be careful not to accidentally turn on your Mac by pressing the power button. If you have a MacBook with a T2 security chip, don’t touchany keyon the keyboard and don’t click on the trackpad. Otherwise, you will turn the MacBook on again.

If you have a pre-2015 MacBook Pro or a pre-2017 MacBook Air, use your fingernail or a plastic stick to remove the battery connector from the logic board, as shown below. Never use a metal screwdriver. Otherwise, you may short-circuit the battery or, even worse, destroy the chips on the logic board by directly sending the 12V battery power to the chips.

If you have a newer MacBook, you can disconnect the battery flex cable as below. Use your fingernail to unlock the connector on the logic board and pull out the flex cable. Once you disconnect the flex cable, the battery will stop output voltage. You don’t need to remove the screw.

There is no immediate threat to your MacBook after disconnecting the internal battery. You have turned off all the circuits on your dedicated logic board, and your data in the MacBook is most likely safe.

The first method is to place the MacBook in the “tent" position. This method will work if your Mac laptop is a pre-2018 MacBook Air or a Pre-2013 MacBook Pro with a non-retina screen. This method is easy and effective for older MacBook models as the screens are watertight.

You may use a fan to circulate the airflow further. With the bottom cover removed, the water-damaged MacBook should be dried after 24 hours. If you don’t open the back case to dry the MacBook, the water could remain for more than a week.

If you put a Macbook retina screen in the “tent" position, as many users did, you may help to distribute the water from the bottom edge to the optical (reflective) film inside the screen. The affected screen may still be functional, but the watermarks on the background heavily affect the image quality, as shown in the photo below. We have seen this done more frequently to water-damaged MacBooks with retina screens.

Open the MacBook lid at an angle of 90 degrees. Place it on the edge of a benchtop with the MacBook screen facing down to the bench and the keyboard section hanging over the edge, as shown in the photo below.

Since the screen lays flat on the table, the water will not move inside the screen and will be dried up quicker. Protect the screen by putting a kitchen paper towel under the MacBook screen panel and prevent the MacBook from falling over the benchtop. The gravity will pull the remaining water out of your MacBook.

Remember, don’t shake the water-damaged MacBook. Doing this will only spread the water around and force the water into dedicated components such as the CPU or the backlight film of the screen, resulting in a more expensive repair.

You should only use your MacBook again when you’re absolutely sure there is no water reach to the logic board, and the rest of the liquid inside and outside the MacBook is dry. It’s challenging to examine the logic board without pulling it out from the case and inspecting it under a microscope.

Unfortunately, even if your MacBook appears to work perfectly now, you might experience new problems further down the line. One of the worst things about liquid damage MacBook is that the electronic components continue to corrode and rust even after they dry out. Proper professional treatment is the only way to guarantee you don’t have problems in the future.

If the data on your MacBook is important and you don’t have a backup. Do not try to turn on the MacBook. You might risk losing your data. Get a reputable Mac repairer instead.

If you can follow this guide to dry your Mac and disconnect the internal battery, you will significantly reduce the repair cost. For example, if you can prevent water from entering the MacBook screen and the logic board, you save a lot of money on repairing or replacing these expensive components. Costs of replacing other components, e.g., Keyboard, trackpad, battery, and speakers, are much cheaper.

Most water-damaged MacBooks can be professionally repaired at a reasonable cost. The repair cost depends on the components you need to fix. We recommend you get at leasest two quotes, one from Apple Stores and one from an independent repair store. You can use our Mac repair price lists as references if you like.

Your water-damage MacBook will be covered if you have purchased AppleCare+ for Mac. You need to pay $429(AUD) as a service fee. Contact Apple and find more if you like. Bear in mind that Apple does not provide data recovery services. If you need the data in your MacBook, you must get a Mac data recovery service from a third-party repairer before claiming the warranty.

Apple also provides repair service if a warranty does not cover your Mac. Apple’s approach is to replace every faulty component as a whole. In other words, Apple will not repair the defective component. Instead, they replace the component. For example, if your MacBook battery is faulty, they will replace the battery together with the keyboard, trackpad, top case and touchbar (if you have any). If one or two chips on the logic board are faulty, they will replace the whole logic board. Therefore the final quote is costly and often exceeds the cost of a new Mac. This is a tactic to encourage you to buy a new Mac.

We recommend taking your Mac to a reputable independent service provider. Many of them have experience with water-damaged MacBooks. However, there are various types and “levels" of service they offer that you should be aware of:

Level 1: Clean the logic board. Clean or replace the keyboard, touchpad, screen, battery, and hard drive. Then assemble back to the case for testing. If the logic board is faulty, you will be informed that the MacBook is not repairable. You might be asked to replace the whole logic board at a high cost if a “refurbished" logic board is available. Usually, this type of service provider will charge you an assessment fee since the cleaning work is time-consuming and the success rate is very low. The Apple authorised repairers and most third-party repairers provide this level of service.

Even though it is inefficient, there is nothing wrong with using rice to dry the MacBook. The best way is to open the MacBook back case and use a fan to circulate the airflow. You can dry the MacBook in 24 hours. On the other hand, the same amount of water could take a month for the rice to do the same job.

There is a chance that the water did not make its way to the logic board, and only the keyboard or touchpad got damaged. Spilling a small amount of water does not guarantee the water did not reach the logic board. The only way to find out safely is to pull the logic board out from the case and inspect it under a microscope.

Without inspection and proper treatment, turning on a water-damaged MacBook that has been dried is a gamble with very poor odds. This is why spilled water and water damage are the number one killer of MacBooks. We never power up a reported liquid-damage MacBook directly. Instead, we will pull the logic board out and assess the damage first. This simple step has helped us increase our success rates.

The electronic bridges known as shorted circuits could be formed anywhere among the logic board circuits by mixing moisture, dusks, minerals and sugar. Once you turn on the laptop, these bridges start the killings, resulting in severe, even fatal damages shown below.

In an extremely rare case, if the charger is also submerged in the liquid, the danger is from the charger’s input power cord (240V AC in Australia and 110V AC in the United States), not the output (20V or less) of the charge. So, in this case, it is still safe to touch the water-damaged MacBook, but not the charger. You need to unplug the power cord from the main socket.

No. The MacBook keyboard has an air-tight mechanism with two layers of plastic sheets. The backlight layer of the keyboard also provides extra protection by sealing the keyboard from underneath. It is almost impossible for the water entering directly from the MacBook keyboard to the logic board. A silicone keyboard cover will protect the keyboard, but not the dedicated Apple Mac logic board. The silicone cover may help to distribute water quickly to the vent holes or the touchpad gaps, resulting in more damage.

Conversational Actions – Extended the functionality of Google Assistant by allowing 3rd party developers to create custom experiences, or conversations, for users of Google Assistant. Will shut in June 2023

Google Health – store, manage, and share personal health information in one place. Development ceased June 24, 2011; accessible until January 1, 2012; data available for download until January 1, 2013.

"Transitioning Google URL Shortener to Firebase Dynamic Links". Google Developers Blog. March 30, 2018. Archived from the original on June 30, 2018. Retrieved July 9, 2018.

Latitude retired – Maps for mobile Help Archived October 8, 2015, at the Wayback Machine. Support.google.com (July 10, 2013). Retrieved on July 21, 2013.

Krishnan, Raj (January 14, 2009). "Stopping development on Google notebook". Google Notebook Blog. Archived from the original on January 27, 2009. Retrieved February 18, 2009.

manufacturer. Alternatively, you can remove the CMOS battery and leave it out for at least five minutes. Replace the CMOS battery. A dead battery will trigger a red LED indicator, which can leave you pulling out your hair. You may even consider trying this first before anything else. If all else fails, disconnect and unplug all hardware starting with the GPU, any hard drives, the RAM, and the CPU. Inspect the connectors and pins for damage or debris. Grime and dust may build up on an old motherboard which can cause problems. You can remove it by carefully cleaning the connectors with a soft pencil eraser. You should also remove all external peripherals, including the mouse, keyboard, external drivers, printers, and ethernet cable. One by one, connect the devices to your computer and try booting it up. Critical hardware includes the CPU and RAM. If you have multiple RAM modules, you can leave one plugged in and the rest disconnected. If the computer appears to boot and there is no red light present, even when there is no video, then it’s likely you’ve found the problem. Try booting without the GPU (graphics card) and a single stick of RAM. If you’ve checked all parts and the problem persists, the problem may be either a defective motherboard or a dying or defective power supply. In some cases, when the power supply fails, it still supplies power to the motherboard and components, and everything, including the system fans, will turn on, yet the computer will not boot.

Motherboard Is Dying The best way to tell if your motherboard is dying, or failing, is to follow the troubleshooting steps discussed here. Unplug all minor hardware from the board and try to boot with minimal connections. If the computer still doesn"t turn on or POST, the board or the power supply is likely the culprit. More often than not, the power supply is the problem. However, if you replace the power supply and the computer still doesn"t boot, you know it"s the motherboard. In rare cases, you may be able to detect damage on the board, including burnt or defective headers, transistors, and other components. A board that has been killed by a static shock will not show any signs of damage, however. How to Check if a Motherboard Is Bad

documentation doesn"t include what the blinking or solid light patterns mean. Why is there a red LED light on the motherboard after I installed RAM? This light could mean that your RAM is faulty or not correctly seated. Check that it"s secure and ensure you"re putting it in the correct slot or according to the manufacturer-recommended configurations. Also, double-check that you"ve purchased compatible RAM for your machine. Was this page helpful? Thanks for letting us know! Get the Latest Tech News Delivered Every Day

Soumik Datta Modified 28 Sep 2022 Follow Us Comment Share Drew McIntyre is still set to face Karrion Kross at Extreme Rules 2022 Drew McIntyre has been sick as of late due to him dealing with a case of food poisoning. However, PWInsider has provided an update on the former WWE Champion. Despite recent health issues, McIntyre showed up on a previous episode of SmackDown to continue his storyline with Karrion Kross. According to the report, The Scottish Warrior is part of the creative plans for this week"s SmackDown. McIntyre, who was replaced on house shows by Braun Strowman, is also expected to return for live events this coming weekend.

#[email protected] and @Lady_Scarlett13 got @DMcIntyreWWE to do exactly what they wanted... #SmackDown https://t.co/I9VC7mbS5s McIntyre and Kross recently engaged in a wild brawl on the blue brand, with Scarlett Bordeaux aiming a fireball at The Scottish Warrior. The two men are set to cross paths in a match at the upcoming Extreme Rules premium live event. The bout is set to be a Strap Match and was confirmed after the recent brawl between McIntyre and Kross.

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event or an impending deadline, a countdown widget can help you stay on top of how much time you have left. This widget can countdown from the number of years left to the number of seconds. Simply give your countdown a name, select the countdown date from the calendar, and toggle on and off between the counters you want. Counter Widget If there is a single thing that you want to keep track of, then the Counter widget is the perfect and easy solution for you. It can be a great way to keep track of habits or keep count of tasks completed. All you need to do is give the Counter a title, and a simple interactive counter widget is generated. Press the right button to count one, and the left button to remove one. Button Widget There are multiple ways to link to external websites in Notion, but sometimes you might want to add a little extra something to your spread. The simple button widget takes you straight to the website you link, and there are multiple customization options. You can change the text and icon for the button and change the button"s shape, font, and color. These are well-integrated with Notion’s design, so they will fit in seamlessly with your pages. How to Create a Widget and Add It to Notion To get started, hover your mouse over the widget you’d like to add and click Create Widget. This takes you to a customization page where you can rename the widget, edit the settings, and preview what the widget will look like. It will also save every widget you create to your account to edit or

Aryan Bajaj Modified 24 Sep 2022 Follow Us Comment Share Here is Ronnie Coleman"s latest workout routine, and what keeps him going at 57! (Image via Google) With a whopping 8 Mr. Olympia titles, Ronnie Coleman has cemented himself in the bodybuilding hall of fame as the best to ever do it. At his peak, he possessed a physique arguably achievable by none. Ronnie put his life on the line to be able to compete professionally, and at one point, it even seemed like he wasn"t going to be able to go on. Against all odds, he came back and proved everyone wrong. When you"re as great as Mr. Coleman, you"ve got to be doing something right. As such, any advice he hands out is literally gold and must be grabbed tightly. In this piece, we"ll examine what he has to say about staying fit in his 50s, and how things are different for him. View this post on Instagram Instagram Post

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Poll Confirms That Sobble Is The Most Popular Pokémon Sword And Shield Starter Nintendo Life But it was mighty close by Share: Yesterday"s reveal of didn"t give all that much away about the new games, but one particularly notable segment introduced the three new starter Pokémon we can expect to choose from on our journey. As series veterans will be aware, a great emphasis has always been placed on your first Pokémon (even though you could technically store them in the PC never to be seen again, if you wish) and that initial decision can be a real challenge. Do you choose your favourite type? The cutest? The strongest-looking? It"s tough, and your decision stays with you throughout the game. But which of the three Generation 8 Pokémon have captured players" hearts right from the start? Well, to find out exactly that, the official Pokémon Twitter account posted a poll just after the big reveal and the votes are now in. You"ve probably already gathered as much thanks to this article"s title, but the water-type Sobble has come out on top. It turned out to be a pretty close contest; Sobble may have won with 38% of the vote, but the fire-type Scorbunny was just behind on 37%. Poor Grookey only managed 25%, so a quarter of the 212,740 votes placed in total. But what about you? Let us know which starter is your favourite in the comments below and feel free to check out to reminisce over yesterday"s events. [source ] Related Games Share: About Ryan can list the first 151 Pokémon all in order off by heart

different or disliked the fire starter"s design of that Gen. There"s usually nothing wrong with the water starters; I just usually end up picking the others. The only time I recall doing a full playthrough with a water type was with Piplup in Pokemon Platinum, but I traded over a Turtwig bred from my Torterra in Diamond for my main grass type. XD Edit: Scratch that, I forgot I did a playthrough with Totodile back in Gen 2 at one point. Oh, I was thinking about older gens. Bulbasaur 4-ever! Scorbunny, ftw. Sobble is best I’m rolling with grookey idc Oh, that makes sense then. Anyway, in gen 1 my picks are always Charmander, then Bulbasaur and last Squirtle. I like turtles, but I just don"t like its design or any of its evolutions. I"m normally all over the grass starters. But I"m not sure this gen. I"m think I"m have to see their final evolution to be sure. It"s going to be a big green baboon with a wooden hammer (and if we are lucky, a bright orange ass). was there ever any doubt? My first main series Pokemon game was Platinum. My starters since then were: Turtwig, Cyndaquil ,Tepig, Froakie, Treecko, and Rowlet(Platinum, Soul Silver, Black 2, Y, Omega Ruby, and Sun respectively)(I refuse to acknowledge Eevee as a starter, so Bulbasaur for Let"s go) The trend here is mostly grass starters with the occasional water or fire type. This time Sobble will be my chosen one, since the grass starter screams Chimchar all over again but grass. We also already have a grass monkey(all three types actually),so why

normal type. Scorbunny for me. Though I do like the sobbing (sobbing bubble=Sobble) would keep me laughing. I thought scorbunny and sobble were digimon when I first saw them. I really like Grookey though. Grookey Gang rise up! Well as someone who kinda grew up with bugs bunny, i can"t help and prefer scorbunny over the other too, though Grookey is cool too. However for me the endstage is more important, if i consider sun and moon, i really hated this owl(sorry i don"t know the english names) and loved the fire-cat, but the endstage this ninja owl was way cooler... I didn’t like the starters straight away but after a while and seeing the artwork I’ve warmed to Scorbunny and Grookey. Sobble is just a bit wet (pun intended). Sobble for me, love his design Well this poll does, plenty of others say otherwise. It was obviously Sobble for me since the first time I saw it. A bright orange ass, you say! Well that"s it I"m sold. Grass starters for life! Sobble reminds me of the puss in boots look I’m normally a fire starter guy, but I would rank it 3’rd: Grookey2’nd: Scorbunny1’st Sobble Us devoted grass-starter lovers are used to this kind of treatment. We shall persevere! Betting Scorebunny only got 2nd because people expected him to chew on a carrot and say what"s up doc ha ha. I almost always choose water as water is strong agains"t fire and grass is weak agains"t fire. But than isn"t water weak agains"t grass because you water grass so is water weak agains"t grass lol. Infernape, Greninja and

loppuny design. I know it"s hard to draw new Pokemon but please, be original. Best boy wins it again. If Grookey"s evolution line is going to be an homage to Sun Wu Kong, he"s going to be the one I pick. Scorbunny for me. If I get spoiled on the evolutions I might change my mind tho. Ah, so it seems my vote made the difference. idk if in this specific case that is a good thing tbh. If you look at them, they all look pretty much the same body type wise(circle head, circle body). Every gen we have had at least one starter that is quadroped, here we have sobble who only sometimes goes on all fours. It"s just... Idk it seems like they won"t look all that different till they evolve. I think it"s how they all look the same. Circle head circle body. Nothing really stands out about these guys quite yet. And this is just comming off of the alolan starters, and they look pretty diverse, ones just a circle, the other circle head square body (quadroped), and the last circle head and a triangle body with no legs. #grookeygangboi I know that Scorbunny is popular with an, ekhem, certain crowd... Grookey gang WELL... certain sites on the internet empirically confirm that Scorbunny is more than twice as popular. I mean. H- How would I know? I-I don"t know that. Love Scorbunny, dislike Sobble since he looks so sad, Grookey is cool but would be nice if he didn"t look so plastic-y. SO um OP....., any chance we can make these sword and shield news posts in the future with Spoiler alerts? leading up to release. (especially the

thumbnail). i know nintendolife likes to make a news post about every new pokemon revealed as there leaked on the net for the games before they release. But some consumers such as myself, like to keep the new pokemon as much a suprise as possible up until release of the game. So please if possible, at least make the thumbnail for the post generic pokemon pic as to not spoil any new pokemon if ya could maybe. i would totally appreciate it. the starter reveal i suppose is fine. just for future new pokemon reveals mostly is what i mean. the grass type will always have the smallest fan base because it is not a great type overall But Grookey is so awesome! how is grookey in last ? ? ? ? scorbunny was coolest design but I"m not choosing my starter until i see the final evolutions for all starters but if scorbunny looks anything close to the trix the rabbit cereal bunny no doubt will choose him no debate lol Leave A Comment Hold on there, you need to to post a comment... Related Articles Which version will you choose? Gotta ban some more Blue sky blues Should you rush to get it? Adieu Joy-Cons? Title: System: Publisher: Developer: Genre: RPG Players: 1 Release Date: Nintendo Switch Guide: Official Site: Where to buy: Related.

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Future Dallas Cowboys Legend Trevon Diggs 5-Year-Old Son Once Told League Leader In Interceptions to Believe In Yourself - EssentiallySportsAmerica"s Favorites Trending in U.S.A.Future Dallas Cowboys Legend Trevon Diggs 5-Year-Old Son Once Told League Leader In Interceptions to Believe In Yourself Published 06/20/2022, 9:00 AM EDTBy Trevon Diggs has a prolific supporter in the stands. His son Aaiden Diggs has become the talk of the town among fans. Moreover, a video surfaced where he is seen cheering with words of encouragement for his father. Additionally, Diggs’ son cheered in support of him by asking the athlete to believe in himself. He had a whole lot of things to say for the Cowboys’ CB. ADVERTISEMENT Article continues below this ad In a clip posted by the NFL, Aaiden is seen saying, “My dad’s named Trevon.” He adds, “Alright Tre, believe in yourself; Make sure you do good; Break those ankles; What a nice play that was by Diggs; We are trying to make the money. We want the money.” ADVERTISEMENT Article continues below this ad "My dad"s named Trevon." Get you a fan like Aaiden Diggs. ? — NFL (@NFL) Aaiden is his father’s biggest fan. This is not the first time his 4-year-old son has been seen offering his support to the future Dallas Cowboys legend. In addition, Aaiden often requests his father to end games with a touchdown and interception. How did Trevon Diggs promise his son to end games in TDs and INTs and what has been his record in the last season In

a bid to keep the promise Trevon Diggs made to his son, in late September 2021; he finished a game in the way he promised his son. “Tre” , “He was like, I want you to get an interception and a touchdown. I kept my promise.” Consequently, he also became the league leader in interceptions in the NFL 2021 season. Diggs recorded the most number of picks by a player in one season. He clocked 11-picks for the and got crowned as the league leader. He also earned the of having the joint highest number of interceptions in Cowboys’ history. Earlier, Everson Walls registered 11-picks for the Cowboys in 1981. ADVERTISEMENT Article continues below this ad With this, Trevon Diggs became worthy of all the praise as a CB. As the next season approaches, the Cowboys’ CB would be hoping to continue his run to become a league lead in interceptions and break his previous records. All in all, he has all the support he needs from his 4-year-old son, Aaiden Diggs. ADVERTISEMENT Article continues below this ad Watch This Story: SHARE THIS ARTICLE ADVERTISEMENT Ayush Jha 261 articlesAyush Jha is an NFL author at EssentiallySports. He is a current graduate of the University of Delhi and has worked on publishing academic research in the past. To fulfill his enthusiasm for covering sports, he started following the NFL and developed a keen interest.Please enable JavaScript to view the ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT EDITORS" PICK More from ES Connect With Us General Legal Full Spectrum Services LLP 2022 All Rights

Launch the Roblox game and log into the serverSelect the Twitter icon on the right side of the screenA new code box interface will appearCopy the required code from the list above and paste it in the text box that says "ENTER CODE HERE"Hit the "Use Code" button to redeem the codes

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CoroCoro Magazine Reveals Three Mega Evolutions For Pokémon Omega Ruby & Alpha Sapphire Nintendo Life That"s pretty Mega by Share: It"s that time again, Pokémon fans, as once again CoroCoro magazine has gone big with information on the upcoming on 3DS. The mag"s gone Mega, in fact. The latest update has details of three new Mega Evolutions; details are below, via our friends at . Mega Altaria — Dragon/Fairy type with Pixilate Mega Lopunny — Normal/Fighting type with Scrappy, also knows High Jump Kick Mega Salamence — has the ability Aerilate Remember those cute Pikachu outfits from previous updates? They do have a purpose, as they change the "mon"s moves in contests: Pikachu Rock Star — Meteor Mash Pikachu Ph. D. — Electric Terrain Pikachu Pop Star — Draining Kiss Pikachu Belle — Icicle Crash Pikachu Libre — Flying Press Contest details include the fact that you meet a Contest Idol called Lucia, who gives you special clothes when you participate — "you also receive a shiny Beldum through an event, where it holds its Mega Stone". You can see the scans below, so let us know what you think of this update. Are you hyped about these Mega evolutions? [source ] Related Games Share: Comments ) Yeah Salamence totally needed a power boost. Edit: Also the top part of mega salamence page is cut off making it hard to actually see the mega dragon in question. I just want to stick my head in Mega Altaria"s feathers. Can"t......handle.......the.......fluffiness. Mega... Lopunny? Seems really

weird, especially because it"s a gen 4 poke. OMG I have a shiny Altaria and Lopunny! Can"t wait to see dem megas shiny Fudge its cute! Oooh and Pika cosplay works in battle! Ooooeehh I hope they make that possible with more pokemon in RB or later games. Edit: OOOMGG its FAIRY/DRAGON!!!!! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH OH NO MET FAIRY /DRAGON OMFG NO WAY WITH PIXILATE I"M SO DONE I"M DONE WHY OMG Definitely getting a Mega Lopunny. Mega Altaria!? LET ME HUG YOU! Before anyone gets excited about Lopunny, it is terrible. It has Normal/Fighting typing and the ability, Scrappy. nice designs Wow. These may be my three favorite mega evolutions. Amazing! Where"s Mega Wigglytuff? :-/ Did anyone actually want these? I feel like there were other Pokemon far more deserving of a boost. The design for Mega Salamence goes above and beyond what I was expecting I"ll be using one on my team for sure! Terrible? Nah.That sounds awesome to me! It"s the bane of ghost types! Give me Mega Torkoal! He really needs one!! Yes Why do I not get a very nice picture in my mind when you say that... Okay... no. Lopunny looks outright creepy, Altaria is just silly, and Salamence looks ridiculous. I don"t see any appeal in these three, personally speaking. Granted, most Megas probably aren"t based on popularity to begin with. i was soooo excited about mega slamence that i just finished breeding a 5 ivs jolly bagon with : trash, fire fang, dragon danse and dragon rush.!!!! Will start the swablu right now , i already have a perfect shiny buneary with egg

moves !! OMG !!!!! that just made my day ! i was soooo excited about mega slamence that i just finished breeding a 5 ivs jolly bagon with : trash, fire fang, dragon danse and dragon rush.!!!! Will start the swablu right now , i already have a perfect shiny buneary with egg moves !! OMG !!!!! that just made my day ! How freaking insane Mega Altaria really doesn"t need to be explained. It"s a Defensive Dragon/Fairy type with Pixilate and a huge move pool of Normal type attacks. That"s the most outrages thing ever. Mega Lopunny is almost as real as Diggersby. That thing is power. If you think that thing is bad you obviously have no understand of the meta game or at least very little. Smogon will regret banning Aegislash to Ubers when this thing comes on in. Mega Salamence is a rad jet plane. The real star of this is ICICLE CRASH Pikachu tho! Pikachu is already super good, but a physical Ice move?! That is way to powerful! Pikachu is about to start sweeping teams, because Grass and Ground types aren"t even a problem anymore!! Naturally ripped pantyhose for Lopunny! let the fan fics BEGIN!!!!!