prusa i3 mk3 lcd screen free sample

Controlling the LCD screen is done by a single control element: a rotational knob that you press to confirm the selection. By single pressing the control button on the information screen, you enter the main menu.

Shortcut: Quick access to change Printing speed - While on the Info-screen, spin the knob either direction, more than one rotation, and see the percentage change.

You can find the latest printable parts for all of our 3D printers or printer upgrades at Prusa i3 Printable parts. Printable parts are divided into two groups:

well, mine stopped displaying text after nearly 5 years. i got my mk3 12/18/2017. and it stopped displaying text 12/6/2022. That"s a decent amount of time. It was always on, the backlight still works just not the text display. I"m satisfied with that kind of lifespan.

The LCD screen is vital for operating the printer. Should you encounter any kind of trouble, such as a dead screen, corrupted text, or other issues, please refer to the guide below.

First of all, unscrew the LCD screen from the printer frame, remove both M3x10 screw holding it the LCD board in the plastic casing, and remove it from the casing. See if the problem still appears when the LCD is not pressed by the casing.

Firmware updates are necessary to keep your printer up to date. However, the installation of incorrect firmware can lead to letter corruption on the LCD screen. There"s an easy fix, though:

There is a small chance the printer"s LCD screen can glitch out by electrostatic discharge when inserting the SD card. Try to turn the printer off and on again.

This problem usually appears only on user-assembled printers. If your printer"s LCD screen remains blank or displays corrupted symbols after you turn on the printer, there is a chance it is caused by incorrect wiring. Follow these steps to fix the issue.

Double-check that all cables are properly seated and they are not visibly damaged. Depending on the model of your printer, please refer to the following guides for information on how to make sure the cables are properly connected: Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) and Mini RAMBo electronics wiring (MK2S, MK2.5, MK2.5S).

If you suspect that the LCD ribbon cables connectors are not firmly seated in the slots, disconnect the LCD ribbon cables and check the slots for any bent pins. If there are bent pins, you can use tweezers to fix them. However, be very careful not to break the pin(s) completely.

Screen cover is modeled to go in combination with remix of a Prusa LCD cover with the same pattern → Hexagon patterned Prusa LCD cover V1 + V2 by dca_prints | Download free STL model | PrusaPrinters

While I am here working at home, I have had the chance to go through some of the tech I have hiding in drawers, baskets, and boxes. I have found some products that I realized would be make a pretty cool project. I will put a touch screen on my Prusa MK3S 3D printer.

While the screen is roughly 3 to 4 inches larger than it really needs to be for this application, it is much better I do this with it than let it sit as it races towards obsolescence hidden away in a box.

I have found this to be a fairly simple project and the added functionality is wonderful. The touch screen adds a way to easily touch and select models that need to be reprinted and with a couple of touches its up and running.

There are few 3D printers with as many industry accolades as the Prusa i3 MK3S+, and after spending some time with this printer, it’s easy to see why it’s one of the best 3D printers currently on the market. With a price tag of $999 for an assembled machine or $750 for a DIY kit, the price point of the MK3S+ is towards the high end for an open format consumer 3D printer, but the features of this machine and the ecosystem created by Prusa (they make their own hardware, software, filament, and more) have made the MK3S+ a formidable machine for anyone interested in taking their 3D printing game to the next level.

The features of the MK3S+ (silent stepper drivers, power-panic, etc.), noteworthy when originally launched, have largely become standard on lower-cost machines and may not seem particularly impressive on a spec sheet. However, clever software implementation and well-written documentation have created a machine that provides a best-in-class printing experience. For instance, the auto-leveling SuperPINDA probe of the MK3S+ maps the build platform for surface distortions, but the printer firmware is capable of storing multiple Z-offsets so you can switch build platforms without having to recalibrate every time.

The MK3S+ is a visually distinct machine; and the Prusa team has kept their black and orange color scheme for their smaller printer, the Prusa Mini+. The bright orange printed parts on the MK3S+ have created instant brand-recognition for the Prusa line of printers, and Prusa has doubled down on this by reinforcing their branding across their machine. In fact, you can find the word ‘Prusa’ printed, engraved, or etched into the MK3S+ in 25 places, 29 if you’re using a spool of their Prusa Polymers Prusament PLA material.

The fully assembled Prusa MK3S+ ships with all of the accessories required to make your first print, and also includes enough spare parts to replace almost every fastener on the machine. The fully assembled MK3S+ also includes a bag of Haribo Goldbears, a signature addition from the Prusa team.

The Prusa MK3S+ includes a full spool of silver PLA material, screwdriver, a metal part scraper, a glue stick (for adhesion), an isopropyl alcohol wipe, lubricant for the linear rails, power and USB cables, a sheet of stickers, a printed handbook, and a diagnostic printout that confirms the functionality of the mechanical and electrical systems.

The usefulness of the handbook is hard to overstate. When you’re starting out with your first 3D printer, it can be difficult to pinpoint the cause of problems such as loss-of-extrusion, poor layer adhesion, or a clogged extruder. The included handbook is full of detailed photographs, troubleshooting workflows, and solutions to common problems. This is an invaluable resource for beginners, amateurs, and experts alike, and it’s clear to me that Prusa has set the standard for technical documentation.

You might be surprised to find that the Prusa MK3S+ is based on the RepRap i3 (third iteration) frame, originally released in September of 2012. Despite this nearly decade-old release date, the MK3S+ is full of modern advancements and enough innovative features to still be a top contender in the prosumer 3D printer market.

At the heart of the MK3S+ is the 8-bit Einsy RAMBo board, housed in a 3D printed enclosure mounted to the frame of the machine. This board is equipped with Trinamic 2130 silent stepper drivers, user-replaceable fuses, and the cable management is clean and professional.

The attention to detail on the Prusa MK3S+ is clear, and a perfect example of this is the wire management across the machine. Current-carrying wires are attached to the extruder module with zip ties that act as a strain-relief to prevent the wires from fatiguing and separating. The wires from the power supply are tucked neatly under the frame of the machine, out of sight and reach from users to prevent accidentally unplugging them during printing.

The 24V heated bed is able to reliably hit 100C, which is more than enough to allow high temperature materials like PETG and ASA to adhere to the build platform without delaminating. The magnetic build platform is firmly held in place without any clips or latches and can easily be removed once it cools to room temperature. PETG in particular is easy to remove from the textured surface of the textured spring steel sheet, and the MK3S+ build platform is best-in-class for high-temperature adhesion.

The MK3S+ is equipped with a genuine E3D hot end, and it has the holographic sticker to prove it (seriously). E3D manufactures every component in the hot end from the nozzle to the heatbreak which means you are very unlikely to run into the type of manufacturing defects that occasionally pop up on less expensive printers (incorrectly drilled nozzles, degraded PTFE tube liner, etc.) In addition, this nozzle is rated for a max temperature of 300C (572F), which is easily hot enough to extrude most common thermoplastics and even some higher-temperature engineering-grade materials like Nylon and Polycarbonate.

The printed parts on the MK3S+ are a perfect example of a company applying its in-depth knowledge of a subject to its product. The printed brackets found on the MK3S+ have been printed in PETG, and the outward-facing textured surface shows the level of quality you can expect from using a textured sheet.

Compared to the manual bed leveling process of a printer like the Creality Ender 3 Pro, the MK3S+ is faster, easier to use, and requires less trial and error. PrusaSlicer includes a “G80” command in the start G-code (the instructions the printer reads when making a part), and this command performs a ‘Mesh Bed Leveling’ which probes the bed in a 3x3 grid to create a mesh surface that is used for calibration. This mesh surface causes the Z-axis motors to undulate over uneven areas while the print head remains perpendicular in the X/Y axis. During my testing, I didn’t need to run a single non-print calibration on the printer after the initial mesh bed leveling.

Prusa also offers a textured steel build platform for the MK3S+ that has a gritty surface which can give printed parts a more uniform appearance. In fact, the signature textured look of the printed parts on the MK3S+ come from this build platform.

The sample prints on the included SD card with the Prusa MK3S+ are a refreshing change from the sample parts that are typically included with low-cost 3D printers. The MK3S+ includes 16 pre-sliced parts that have been prepared for PLA with the total print time included in the file name. The sample prints vary in time from 23 minutes (a simple block with the word PRUSA on it) to almost 14 hours (a castle printed at .1mm layer height), and have all been prepared using sensible settings for the machine and highlight various features (variable layer height, multicolor printing, and fine .1mm layer resolution).

The current version of PrusaSlicer (2.3.3) includes profiles for printers by Prusa, Creality, Lulzbot, and more, and also includes a library of material profiles. In addition to these profiles, PrusaSlicer also includes multiple print setting profiles, which range from ultra-high detail at 0.05mm layer height to a draft mode which offers .3mm layers fast print speed at the expense of reduced quality.

PrusaSlicer is a feature-rich program with a simplified interface that is accessible to beginners, experts, and everyone in between. I’ve spent a lot of time in the PrusaSlicer settings, and I appreciate how much work Prusa has put into making almost every parameter of the printing process addressable without creating an overwhelming interface.

There are few prints that are better at testing out a printer than the 3DBenchy, so I used the included spool of silver Prusa PLA to print this model out using the default .2mm Quality PrusaSlicer settings. I was impressed with the overall quality of the Benchy, and even with a highly-reflective material like a silver PLA which can highlight defects from uneven layers, the layers looked even and consistent throughout.

The Benchy boat model is designed to highlight various features of a printer (such as the ability to print steep overhangs, small features, etc.), and a quick examination of the model shows that the MK3S+ performed very well and didn’t have any of the common defects typically seen on this model.

The Prusament Galaxy Purple is a favorite color of mine due to the glitter additive in the filament. This additive creates layer lines that are evenly blended and have a textured appearance. Combining this material with the Spiral Vase mode produces parts that look almost conventionally manufactured, with layer lines that are difficult to see. This model printed in just over 3 hours in Spiral Vase mode, as opposed to over 13 hours if it had been printed using conventional settings.

PETG is a material that offers increased mechanical toughness, heat resistance, and flexibility when compared with parts printed with PLA. Prusa has taken advantage of these material properties by printing many of the components on the MK3S+ with PETG, which creates a rigid part that is able to withstand mechanical stress. PETG is also notoriously difficult to print with due to the high level of stringing that can occur when printing multiple parts simultaneously, but I didn’t have any issues when printing with the Prusament PETG material on the MK3S+.

I used the default settings in PrusaSlicer to print the clamp model provided by Prusa that was designed specifically for PETG. This model features a functional thread, a flexible ball-and-socket joint, and can be tensioned without snapping the body of the clamp. The part printed in multiple pieces without stringing, and I was able to easily assemble it and verify functionality without damaging the clamp. If printed in a more brittle material (like PLA), I would expect the clamp to crack at a transition point on the body, but the PETG was able to hold tension without deforming or breaking.

PrusaPrinters (the online file repository created and maintained by Prusa) offers the unique ability to share 3D printable files that have been pre-sliced and prepared for the MK3S+ with detailed print statistics available from the site. A perfect example of this is the Bag Clip by Andrei; a cam-driven bag clip that highlights the type of design freedom offered by a 3D printer.

At a price-point of $999 for an assembled printer (or $749 for a kit), the Prusa MK3S+ is a machine that doesn’t compromise on user experience and is absolutely one of the best 3D printers currently on the market. The MK3S+ has a professional and neat appearance, but the 8-bit monochrome LCD user interface might be a challenge for some users to get past, given the steep price. Interface aside, the prosumer features of the MK3S+ make it a stand-out machine for anyone who is looking for a reliable machine to produce functional parts without worrying about spending a lot of time tinkering.

If you are looking for a less expensive machine outside of the Prusa ecosystem, the Elegoo Neptune 2 (currently on Amazon for $180) offers similar printing size and features (with the notable exception of automatic bed leveling) at a fraction of the price but without the same level of robust support and documentation provided by the MK3S+ or any of the name-brand components like the E3D hotend. If you want the Prusa experience but are looking to spend a little less money, the Prusa Mini+ (available from Prusa for $399 assembled, $349 for a kit) is an excellent place to start.

Though these 3D printers are similar in features and print quality, the Prusa MK3S+ comes at a substantially higher price tag than the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. While cost isn’t everything, it is definitely an important factor to consider when purchasing. The Ender 3 S1 Pro is priced in the $500-550 price range (Check the current price on Amazon), and includes free shipping from Amazon (or most other vendors). The Prusa$ MK3S+ starts at the $800-850 price point for the unassembled kit, and is over $1000 for the assembled version (Check prices on prusa3d.com). Shipping is not free, and will add $50-100 to the price tag depending on whether you purchase the kit or the fully assembled version.

Creality 3D printers are manufactured in China, while Prusa Research is located in the Czech Republic. Due to lower costs of labor and easier access to other manufactured parts, 3D printers manufactured in China cost less to produce and can support a lower price point. In addition, the Prusa MK3S+ uses 3D printed parts in the construction of the printer. This has a number of advantages for Prusa, such as the ability to iterate quickly on part updates, and is a way for Prusa to extensively test their printers when manufacturing these parts. However, 3D printing at scale is more expensive than traditional manufacturing methods such as injection molding.

For parts that they do not 3D print, Prusa focuses primarily on part quality with cost as a secondary consideration. For example, Prusa uses premium parts for the linear rail system and name-brand Bondtech and E3D components for the extruder and hot end. Creality takes a more balanced approach with the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and reduces cost by producing parts themselves, such as the CR-touch leveling sensor and a Creality branded power supply. Creality has historically focused on cost first, but we have seen that the higher-end printers like the Ender 3 S1 Pro do strike a good balance between quality and cost savings.

It is clear from the moment you open the MK3S+ that Prusa puts a lot of effort into testing and quality control. For our assembled unit, a checklist and test results sheet were included which showed all of the testing that they performed before shipping the unit. Additionally, the printer shipped with a completed test print on the bed, indicating that they run an actual print test on each unit they produce. Creality printers do not go through as rigorous of testing, and in some cases there will be small issues that require adjustment. In our experience of purchasing over 30 Creality printers at retail, we have noticed small QC issues on 10-15% of the printers.

Improved quality control is not free, and is likely a contributing factor in Prusa’s higher price point. The bottom line is that if you prefer to pay more to get a machine that will almost certainly work out of the box without any defects, the Prusa MK3S+ is more geared toward you.

In a similar vein, Prusa provides a much better support experience than Creality. After purchasing a printer, it is easy to get in touch with Prusa’s dedicated support team through their site, since you are buying directly from the manufacturer. With Creality, getting support is more difficult since you will be purchasing through a 3rd party like Amazon. If there are major defects with the printer, Amazon is very good about providing replacement units, however you will not be able to get assistance in repairing issues, and needing to do a full replacement can be a frustrating experience.