prusa i3 mk3 lcd screen in stock

This LCD unit supports the screen brightness adjustment feature.Brightness function requirements: MK3, MK3S, Einsy board revision 1.1a (or newer), Firmware 3.9.0 (or newer)...

well, mine stopped displaying text after nearly 5 years. i got my mk3 12/18/2017. and it stopped displaying text 12/6/2022. That"s a decent amount of time. It was always on, the backlight still works just not the text display. I"m satisfied with that kind of lifespan.

Looks really nice, but viewing angles are no better than the original. I have a second printer with a Midas MC42005A12W-VNMLW and plan to switch this one to that too. The contrast of the viewing angles for the transmissive lcd are so much better.

This LCD display works and fits like original PRUSA MK3 display. The price point for this unit was below anything I could find elsewhere. It’s a perfect match for the PRUSA MK2 and MK3. No complaints.

LCD support arms for the Prusa i3 MK3S that are 11mm shorter than the stock models, making the LCD panel protrude only as far forward as the heatbed can travel.

Note: On extended use I have noticed the casing for the LCD panel has started to slightly bow outwards through heat from the heatbed, now the bed passes over it more. This has had no impact on printer functionality so far but it may be prudent to avoid this modification, use an LCD panel case made out of a more temperature-resistent material, or print on the front of the bed to avoid it hovering over the LCD display too often, if you tend to print using high-temperature filaments.

The attached 3MF and GCODE files are set up to use PETG at Prusa"s recommended print settings. Swap for the stock parts (remember to swap the square M3 nuts as well) and then test range of motion of the heatbed in your enclosure manually when powered off, to ensure unrestricted movement is still possible.

The Prusa i3 is one of the most successful 3D printer designs in history. Because it’s an open-source design, dozens of manufacturers have sold their own versions. Sometimes those are exact clones, and sometimes they have small tweaks. But genuine Prusa i3 3D printers are consistently rated as the most reliable consumer printers on the market. That said, they have a pretty basic monochrome LCD screen.Dr. Scott M. Baker decided to swap that out for something a little more interesting, and chose a vintage VFD.

This mod was tested with the Prusa i3 Mk33D printer, but should work with earlier iterations and many clones. It essentially just replaces the boring monochrome LCD with a cyberpunk-style VFD (vacuum fluorescent display). VFDs used to be common in consumer electronics, because they produced clear, bright graphics. But they’ve fallen out of favor in recent years as LCD, LED, and OLED displays have become more affordable. There is no denying how cool they look though, which is why Dr. Baker performed this modification.

TheVFDitself is made by Noritake, and — very surprisingly — is almost an exact drop-in match for the LCD that comes with the Prusa i3 Mk3. The display is a little expensive at around $90, but it’s hard to beat the convenience. All you have to do is take apart your control panel and pull the PCB out. Then either desolder the original LCD or order a new PCB (available atprintedsolid.com). Next, just solder in the Noritake VFD and put the control panel back together. That’s it! It should just work. You can even use filters if you want to change the color of the VFD.

What’s wrong with the OEM display on a Prusa I3 Mk3? Nothing at all. Then why replace the stock LCD with a vacuum fluorescent display? Because VFDs are much, much cooler than LCDs.

At least that’s the reasoning [Scott M. Baker] applied to his Prusa upgrade. We have to admit to a certain affection for all retro displays relying on the excitation of gasses. Nixies, Numitrons, and even the lowly neon pilot light all have a certain charm of their own, but by our reckoning the VFD leads the pack. [Scott] chose a high-quality Noritake 4×20 alphanumeric display module for his upgrade, thriftily watching eBay for bargains rather than buying from the big distributors. The module has a pinout that’s compatible with the OEM LCD, so replacing it is a snap. [Scott] simplified that further by buying a replacement Prusa control board with no display, to which he soldered the Noritake module. Back inside the bezel, the VFD is bright and crisp. We like the blue-green digits against the Prusa red-orange, but [Scott] has an orange filter on order for the VFD to make everything monochromatic. That’ll be a nice look too.

I used to have the same issue with noise from the power supply getting onto the screen and even sometimes resetting my printer mid-print. I found that if I had my USB programming cable plugged in I never experienced the issue. I found that the issue was the noise from the power supply wasn"t not being drained to earth ground, and it was actually tripping the reset on the micro-controller. Part of that comes from the micro-controller and screen having to share their power, which is regulated down to 5v from the incoming 12v. The trick is to supply the micro controller with its own 5v while printing and drain the incoming noise off to earth ground. I modified the typical USB A-B cable to resolve this. As long as you still use the SD card to load the gcode you can occupy the programming port with this cable to supply the 5v.