symptoms of lcd panel failure brands

Vin: PWB input voltage (12V)VDD: ASIC, source IC, gate IC driving power (3.3v)VGH: TFT component switching voltage (~30V)VGL: TFT component turn-off voltage (~ -6v)VAA: step control voltage (~17V)VCOM: liquid crystal reversal reference voltage (~7V)

3. #If all the above is OK, measure the LVDS voltage value. Under normal conditions, the LVDS signal’s RX+/ RX-voltage value is about 1.2v, and RX+/ RX-difference value is about 200mV. At the same time, the resistance of the LVDS signal to ground and the resistance between the LVDS signal pairs can be measured (100 ohms). If there is an exception to these values, try replacing the ASIC.

1. #Confirm whether the COF on side X is hot compared with the normal temperature, whether there is fracture or wear crack, and whether the COF is burnt.

2. #Confirm whether the VAA is normal (normally about 17V). If abnormal, disconnect the RP32 to confirm whether it is caused by DC/DC loop or X-side COF: disconnect RP32, if the VAA is normal, the COF is bad, CO must be changed; COF can be Disconnect one by one to determine which NG disconnects RP32, VAA NG, try to change UP1; at the same time, confirm whether the continuity of the surrounding triode is OK.

4. #Determine whether the gate IC is OK. There is a signal test point on the back of COG-IC, and the green paint can be scraped for measurement confirmation; If there is a gate IC problem, which IC fault can be confirmed. The confirmation of gate IC fault is only for analysis when you are interested, and this method is not recommended.

1. #Measure GM1~GM14, the values are arranged from large to small. In general, a certain gamma value will be abnormal in the case of NG, then try to replace gamma-IC;

3. #Confirm whether the RSDS value is correct, normal RSDS is about 1.2v, and the signal difference is about 200mV; At the same time, we can confirm the resistance between RSDS signal (normal 100 or 50 ohms) and RSDS resistance to ground. If the voltage is NG, check if the ASIC and X-COF are hot.

Polarizer / CELL damaged To change the polarizer, a polarizer attaching machine is required The degree of whitening of the picture changes with different viewing angles

2. #Confirm VGH/VGL voltage (about 30V VGH and -6v VGL), and confirm whether it is DC/DC loop NG or COF IC NG; The corresponding resistance of disconnected VGH and VGL can determine whether it is a DC/DC problem or a COF-IC problem. If it is DC/DC NG, try to replace UP1 or confirm whether the corresponding transistor is OK.

3. #Confirm whether the gate IC is OK. There is a signal test point on the back of COG IC, which can scrape the green paint for measurement confirmation; Or cut COF halfway from G3. If there is a gate-ic problem, which IC fault can be confirmed.

2. #Confirm whether there is 12V input, if not, confirm whether the connector is OK, and confirm the resistance value of 12V voltage to earth; If conn. NG, change conn.; If 12V is short-circuited to the ground, disconnect FP1 to determine the short-circuiting circuit.

3. #Confirm whether FP1 is open; if open, replaces fuse. If the 12V accessory of this model has a reverse diode, confirm the continuity of the diode and check whether it is burnt.

B. Confirm VAA resistance to ground at VAA test point of R plate (A short circuit usually occurs), disconnect the corresponding capacitance of the following 3 COF, and confirm VAA resistance to the ground again. If OK, replace the capacitor, if NG, replace COF. If VAA is still NG, confirm DC/DC loop as all models.

3. #Shaking module, if vertical lines disappear or reappear, then it can be judged that the possible cause is COF pin broken, and the crease should be found under the OM microscope.

4. #Press the LCD glass side of the panel, if the vertical lines disappear or reappear, it can be judged that the cause of poor contact, OM checking should be able to find the poor contact.

5. #If there is no display change in pressing, confirm whether ITO is damaged under the OM microscope, or pin signal waveform corresponding to needle COF.

Lamp line is broken Replace the lamp tubing Depending on the backlight structure, there will be different results. The failure of the performance may be a point-off, or it may be a backlight with a dark band.

4. #The above disassembly judgment can basically solve the problems of point-off in the market. If you can’t tell the truth, you can directly change the lamp tube.

Lamp line is broken Reconnect / replace lamp tubing Depending on the protection status of the power board, it may be a backlight with a dark band or it may be a point-off.

3. #Disassemble the backlight, confirm whether there is a short circuit with broken skin on the lamp strip, whether the plug of the lamp strip is fully integrated with the socket, whether the pin is aslant/off, whether the connector is off, and whether the LED bead is black and injured.

4. #The fault of the product is basically caused by the above reasons. If the appearance is fault-free, the lamp bar can be crossed to confirm whether the phenomenon follows the lamp bar, or the voltage of the lamp bar and the conduction condition between the lamp beads can be measured.

The above is the full text of LCD screen failure repair guide, we hope it is helpful to you. If you need to buy LCD and find a reliable LCD supplier, we suggest you to read our other great blog – How to find a reliable LCD supplier.

Founded in 2014, VISLCD is a professional LCD supplier. We provide LCD modules, touch LCD and customized LCD in various sizes with stable quality and competitive price. Welcome to contact us for any LCD demand, thank you.

Any electronic device isn’t intended to keep going forever and the monitor is one of them, it also needs replacement after a specific timeframe. Here, I will tell you the 9 warning signs of monitor failure that you must remember because it will tell you that your monitor is dying or still have a long life.

The monitor is an integral part of everyone these days. Literally, no one wants to confront sudden hindrances while working, gaming or watching a movie on the monitor. If your monitor is showing failure symptoms, in this case, it becomes necessary to take immediate actions before it completely dies.

Here are 9 signs that will tell if your monitor is really dying or not. The below-given signs of monitor failure, applicable for almost all the monitor types including LCD, LED, CRT, or even OLED. Here we go!

Monitor with dim images can cause not only distress when working with it but also affect the health of the eyes. This is due to the fact that monitors can no longer provide the brightness that it was in the beginning.

Dimming occurs mainly when the backlight fails in LCDs and LEDs while in the case of the CRT monitor, the element cathode tube ray fails to function since it doesn’t use backlight panel technology to illuminate the screen.

Most importantly, first, check the screen settings: you may have forgotten to set the maximum brightness. As well as look for the is there any deterioration of the PC component i.e. faulty graphic card, RAM, or even the computer’s bad power supply, before reaching the conclusion.

When the screen resolution is changed the images become blinks, it does not only with the old CRT type monitors but also with the modern LCD and LED screens.

The flickering can be caused by a burned-out monitor due to the overclocking, it is not necessarily need to be overclocked. Blinking can also be caused by the change of resolution, refresh rate, bad drivers, or a corrupted graphics card.

In some cases, it also indicates to us a malfunction of the power supply. This likewise happens due to poor contact of the cables with the monitor connectors, yet this occurs so rarely. Another reason can be the swelling of capacitors from time to time.

If the flickering persists, try connecting the monitor to another system and check it. If the issue still persists then something is without a doubt a sign of a failing monitor you must go repairing the monitor.

Another sign that means your monitor is moving toward the end of its life is “that the monitor takes much more time to display an image than the normal time”. It mainly indicates an internal problem that could prompt the demise of the LCD.

Typically, modern monitors like LCDs and LEDs take 5 to 10 seconds for an image to appear after the power button is pressed or restarting the computer.

On LCD and LED monitors the image picture is made out of thousands of tiny pixels (very small dots) that display the big picture. Each one of them continually changes its colors to convey visual information on the screen.

In the below image, you can see the small black dots/dead pixels on the screen. In some cases, it may occur due to a factory error of the person touching the monitor very hard with their finger.

If few pixels that don’t work on the monitor do not create significant changes, at that point if there are a ton of such pixels. It will be immediately recognizable and becomes difficult to identify the image on the screen, and such a defect will begin to interrupt your display.

If the picture gets blurry, distorted, or smeared, this also indicates a problem with either the video adapter, the internal screen parts, and the loss of contact in the signal cable or broken connectors.

These can be spots of various colors, such as green or yellow, or there can be shading inconsistencies, jagged lines, or distortion of areas of a solid color. These can’t be removed just by adjusting the color parameters.

The appearance of vertical or flat stripes and bizarre color patterns on the monitor screen is an indication of a glitch in the hardware. This problem arises with the failure of the graphic card or monitor’s screen panel whether is a 24 or 27 inch Monitor.

In this situation, first and foremost, you need to check the update of the graphic drivers and display resolution settings. If still not resolves, then the only solution to the problem is to replace the failed component assembly.

If your monitor is under warranty, immediately after the stripes show up, contact the service, regardless of whether there is just one strange line or pattern and it doesn’t bother you.

The Screen Burn-in problem can occur ‘if the same picture is displayed on the screen for a long time. As soon as you remove it and the view changes, but part of the previous image is still visible on the screen. Sometimes this indicates a breakdown of the video adapter.

This happens because when, the continuous appearance of images for an extensive period of time the pixels that compose it have been working at a different rate than the others and, therefore have matured more than needed cause the effect of “Image Burn-in” also known as a “ghost image” on the screen.

Many of you noticed that the LCD monitor for quite a long time and has no kind of burnout, and this is true because the Liquid Crystal Technology produces only the colors that wanted.

On the other hand, the screen burn-in is common in CRT monitors, Amoled Screens, and OLED TVs. If you any of these and in the event that you leave the monitor screen for a really long period of time, it can cause image burn-in or even gets permanently burnt.

To keep away your monitor from such failure you need to turn it off for a couple of moments after a specific time of use. Unless the cost for repairing the glass (if possible) or replacement with a new monitor can be expensive even than same sized TV.

In this case, the monitor lights up for a second and goes out, turns on, and immediately turns off. Tapping the monitor with a hand, twitching the cable generally doesn’t work either, so don’t attempt.

Also, if the monitor is not responding at all to button presses, that could mean a few things. The most common reason for such a malfunction of LCD monitors is because something POST error or incomplete connection to the monitor.

The reason for the breakdown of the power supply lifespan is one of two things: either a power surge in the 220V or the aging of electronic components.

Most often, the repair of the PC monitor is limited to replacing a few small parts, but in rare cases, it is important to totally replace the power supply.

Most often, the problem is solved by replacing the cable with good quality rather than a conventional cable, you need to take a cable with an EMI suppressor.

If replacing the cable doesn’t work, then power supply interference may have entered the imaging circuits. Usually, they get rid of them schematically using filtering capacities for the power supply on the circuit board device.

So, these are the important signs of monitor failure. If you ever notice any of these warning symptoms of monitor you can tell that your monitor is in the dying stage or still have a lifespan to run quite a while.

Televisions are an expensive purchase and they come with a maximum manufacturer’s warranty of 3 years, which is not enough. Plus, they are delicate and can start to show signs of failure if not properly maintained.

Since TV is used practically everyday for hours at a stretch, it is bound to have some issues over time. Some of these issues can be taken care of at home, while some serious issues may need help from a professional.

This is a common problem in TVs and is a sign that your TV panel is failing. But before you call an expert to check the TV, you could try following these steps and check if they work:

Turn off the TV and unplug the AC power cord (main lead). Keep it unplugged for 15 minutes and then switch on the TV to check if the issue has been resolved.

If it continues to show lines, you may mostly have to get the panel replaced and replacing the panel can be a costly affair, depending on the TV and its model. LED panels range anywhere between Rs 8,000 to Rs 85,000, while LCD panels range between Rs 6,000 to Rs 25,000.

Try increasing the volume to the fullest on your remote to check the sound. Ensure the TV input is correct, the TV is not on mute mode or no headphones are connected to the TV audio out jack on the side or front of your TV.

Also, check if all the cables connected into the back of your TV are proper and not loose. If there is still no sound, you will need to call a professional to open the TV and check the circuit board.

When the TV has speakers that work perfectly fine but it has no picture, there is mostly an issue with the back-lighting system or the power supply board, which will need to be replaced. In the case of an LCD TV, it works with the help of a backlight that is used to illuminate the picture on the screen. When the backlight begins to have problems, the screen turns blank.

To fix this issue, the backlight will have to be replaced by a TV expert. Another possible reason is that the backlight on the LCD TV which has a power inverter has failed. When this happens, you may need to replace the inverter or the capacitor.

There could be several reasons for a flickering TV screen, which is mostly a common issue with LED TVs.One of the major reasons for this is loose or defective cables that result in screen flicker.

In the case of HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface) cables, you will notice snow or flickering colors. With other analog cable types, you will mostly notice a sudden change in the brightness and color intensity.

In some cases, this may also happen because the main processor board is commanding the LED back-lights to turn off via the control line. To resolve this issue, you will need to get a new LED strip or processor board.

Be it a panel issue or a major technical issue with the TV, resolving these problems is a costly affair. It’s best not to ignore any of these signs and call an authorized TV expert before the problem worsens.

Buying a television is a long-term investment, so do not compromise. Buy one with a minimum of 4K resolution because new technology like OLED and HDR is pretty much only on 4K TVs.

Choosing a TV size plays an important role. If the screen size is too big for your room, you may notice the loss of clarity. To measure the distance between the sofa and the TV. If the viewing distance between the sofa and your TV is between 5 – 10 feet, a 40 – 42 inch TV should be perfect for your room. If the distance is less than 5 feet, a 32 inch should work best.

Unlike older cathode ray tube (CRT) displays that scan an electron beam over a phosphor screen to create light, LCD displays are composed of a fixed grid of tricolor pixels that change transparency based on a range of voltage levels provided by the monitor"s controller. Without a voltage the pixel is opaque and blocks the screen"s backlight from transferring through it, and when a full voltage is applied then the pixel allows full transmittance of the backlight. When this is done over the entire pixel grid in patterns, then you see those patterns on the screen.

At a very basic level, the way pixels work is a voltage change alters the pixel to allow more or less light through. When there is no voltage, no light is let through (darker), and when the voltage is at its maximum level then 100 percent of the light is allowed to pass through (brighter). By supplying intermediate voltages the computer adjusts the pixel"s transmittance levels for its three color components, to display various combined colors and intensities.

This pixel-based setup for LCD monitors provides many advantages over CRT displays, but does have potential drawbacks arising from the fact that the image is dependent on millions of independent electrical components as opposed to a single scanning beam, so if faults occur in these components then the display output can be affected. The resulting problems include stuck or dead pixels, as well as a residual image effect.

One of the more common problems with LCD displays is the potential for stuck or broken pixels, where the pixel either does not receive a voltage and remains black, or does not respond to voltage changes and stays at a set luminance level. Sometimes this can happen for individual pixels, suggesting a problem with the pixel itself, or it can happen to groups of pixels, suggesting the possibility of problems with the display"s controller or a defect in a portion of the pixel grid.

When stuck or broken pixels occur, there are a couple of things you can try in order to fix the problem. One is to apply a small amount of pressure to the pixel when turning the display on or off, which can sometimes help stimulate the electronics to work properly. Unfortunately, Apple"s glass-covered glossy displays prevent this from working on modern Mac systems.

The alternative to using pressure is to exercise the pixel"s electronics by using a program that displays quick-changing patterns on the screen and thereby rapidly switches the pixels on and off. Three such programs that will work on the Mac are the following:

LCD monitors can also be affected by another problem called "transient persistence" that is reminiscent of CRT burn-in. Classic burn-in would happen because the phosphor coating on the screen would get depleted by the persistent bombardment of electrons from the CRT, resulting in the inability of those sections of the display to convert the electron beam to visible light. This meant that if you kept a specific pattern showing on the screen then over time it could become a permanent residual image on the display that would show even when the display was turned off. This was a reason why screensavers were developed--to keep the wear on the screen"s phosphor coating as even as possible.

The physical burn-in of displays is no longer an issue now that LCD displays have taken over, but while transient image persistence is not a physical burn of the device, it is an alteration of the pixel response to voltage changes (usually temporary) that prevents pixels from getting as bright as others on the screen.

Similar to CRT burn-in, LCD image persistence generally happens after you have displayed a pattern of intense colors on screen; however, unlike CRT burn-in, LCD persistence can sometimes set in after only a few hours of displaying the image, as opposed to the weeks or even months that it can take for burn to set in on a CRT monitor. Additionally, unlike CRT burn-in, image persistence can often be reversed.

What happens with LCD monitors is the affected pixels have lost their ability to respond to the full range of voltages that the display gives them, resulting in a limited range of colors that can be output. This can happen if the pixel is acting like a capacitor and is retaining a residual charge, or if it is not able to reach the level of luminance that is desired when given a specific voltage. Either way, the pixel is not able to reach its full range of possible intensities.

Unlike stuck or dead pixels that may benefit from having the monitor turned on and off rapidly to produce rapid voltage changes, image persistence will benefit from a lengthy stretching of the pixel"s range. Therefore, instead of using tools like JScreenFix to run random patterns over the affected screen area, you might instead place a pure white window (such as an empty TextEdit window, or what you get using the "White" option in the LCD Repair tool listed above) over the affected area for a few hours or even a few days if necessary. Doing this will force those pixels to be fully on, and over time their intensities may increase to be the same as the surrounding pixels.

Likewise, try turning off the pixels fully by shutting down the display for a long period of time or placing a pure black texture over the affected area (see the LCD Repair tool listed above for this option as well). This will turn the pixels completely off and allow residual voltage in them to drain slowly over time.

So far we have discussed pixel-based problems with LCD displays, but the system"s backlight can also suffer some common problems that include the backlight randomly blinking off, not turning on, or only illuminating part of the screen.

When the display fully cuts out and does not show any light, one possibility could be that your computer is not properly communicating with the display, or the display"s controllers or power supply are not working properly. If this occurs, try connecting the display to another system. But if power LEDs and other indicator lights turn off when the backlight goes out, then it may be your display"s power supply is failing.

If only the backlight is malfunctioning, then the LCD panel itself should still be working just fine and should be rendering the text and images of your computer"s output. To test for this, use a bright flashlight and shine it on your screen at an angle in an area where you expect images and text to be (such as the Dock or menu bar). On Apple"s laptop systems, you can shine the flashlight through the Apple logo on the back to illuminate the screen on the front and better detect text and images that way.

If shining an alternative light source on the display causes graphical content to show up, then either the backlight or some component involved in controlling it (such as the power inverter for it) have failed and will likely need to be replaced, especially if you cannot rectify the problem by restarting the system, resetting PRAM and SMC, or otherwise toggling different hardware and software settings on your system.

Of course, sometimes, the TV is beyond repair and you should replace it instead. If the screen is broken or the TV doesn’t turn on no matter what you do (or if the sound stopped working completely), it’s time to check out a new set.

Few things are as off-putting as a dead pixel in the middle of your screen. Whether these dots are black or green, they’re incredibly inconvenient. Before jumping to the worst conclusion, however, you might want to make sure that it’s indeed a dead pixel, not a stuck one.

The difference is that stuck pixels usually happen because of a problem with a transistor; they often have different colours and are usually just simply out of place. If it is a dead pixel, then the TV should be sent for repairs, as, unfortunately, the issue is a difficult one to fix.

You may also want to check out if the problem is, indeed, with the screen. You’d be surprised at how often a small piece of dirt or dust can look like a dead pixel, so clean the screen before assuming you’re dealing with a big problem. Then use the screen to try games or connect it to your computer; if the pixel disappears on a specific media, then the issue could be the connection.

Phantom colours are also a problem; if there are smears of bright colours in areas that should be completely white, you can be pretty sure that there’s a problem. Colour distortion is relatively simple to correct, so don’t despair! Contact a professional for advice.

The issue can be due to cables that have become loose inside the screen as well, which is an easy fix, although it may require a professional because the TV may have to be opened.

This is often known as screen burn-in, although this definition is not entirely accurate. Screen burn-in is a more serious issue that involves the permanent degradation of the screen and occurs by leaving a static image on a screen for a long time.

You may be able to do something about this by adjusting the levels of brightness and contrast on your TV and playing different types of content to see if the problem goes away. You can also enable your TV’s Pixel Shift feature; when this feature is turned on, images on the screen move a bit to vary the pixels used. Pixel Shift is often included in modern sets and might clean out the phantom image.

Another common problem is when the image displayed on the screen appears to be fuzzy or blurry. The smaller details tend to become lost and the quality of the picture displays poorly, very quickly taking your enjoyable movie experience to one of discomfort and stress.

However, the good news is that, when this happens to modern televisions, there is a high chance of it being fixed, so you can still enjoy your TV for a long time.

If the TV is on but the picture is faded on some areas of the screen, it’ll be difficult for you to actually enjoy the content. You may try to ignore the stain-like mark but there is no denying that this will impact your experience. Faded spots are not that rare and can be accompanied by other serious issues, like your image fading to black after you’ve turned the TV on.

We offer repairs as well as a vast range of products so, if you find that your current TV is well past its sell-by date, be sure to browse our amazing

Computer monitors are fairly simple, in use if not in actual construction: plug ’em in, turn ’em on, look at your computer stuff on the brighter part. But misleadingly easy as they might seem, there’s a lot of stuff going on inside that blank plastic case…and a lot of stuff that can go wrong.

Unfortunately, most of that stuff requires either a certified repair or a complete replacement to fix. Unless you’re especially handy with electronics and you just happen to have access to cheap replacement parts, it’s usually better to either return a monitor to the manufacturer (if it’s under warranty) or simply buy a new one. Even so, here are the most common ailments for modern LCD monitors, and what can be done to fix them…or not.

If your monitor’s screen is often flashing or stuttering, there are a few different problems that you could be facing. It might be something as simple as a loose or faulty video cable. So first, tighten down the cable on both the monitor and the computer end (making sure to completely tighten any retention screws, if your cable has them) or simply replace the cable. The same thing goes for the power cable: make sure it’s secure at both ends, and if the problem persists, replace it if possible.

An incorrect refresh rate setting can also cause flickering. The refresh rate is the number of times the computer sends an image to the monitor per second, expressed in hertz. Most LCD monitors use either 59 or 60 hertz, though 75Hz, 120Hz, and 144Hz are also found on premium monitors. Go into your operating system’s display settings (right-click desktop and head to Display settings > Display adapter properties > Monitor in Windows 10) to make sure the right hertz setting is applied—you may need to update your video drivers as well.

Unfortunately, most other flickering symptoms are caused by a power deficiency somewhere in the monitor itself. It’s possible you could be drawing too much power from one of your home’s electrical circuits or overloading your surge protector—just move the power adapter to another plug to test this. But it’s more likely that there’s a loose or malfunctioning component in the screen assembly itself. If that’s the case, repair or replacement are the answers.

Black or single-colored lines on LCD screens are caused by a lot of different issues, but if the standard fixes outlined in the flickering section above don’t fix them (check your video and power cables for problems, install new drivers), it’s probably a physical defect in the screen itself. Try your monitor on another computer or laptop to see if the problem persists; if it does, you’re probably looking at a replacement, since the error is almost certainly in the LCD panel (the most expensive component of the monitor).

A “dead” pixel is a single dot on your LCD screen that doesn’t illuminate, showing up as one or more black squares. “Stuck” pixels are similar, but instead of showing black they’re stuck on a single color that doesn’t match the computer screen’s image, typically either red, green, or blue.

There isn’t much you can do for a dead pixel—it’s a physical malfunction of the screen panel. Luckily one or two dead pixels usually doesn’t mean you have to throw the whole monitor away; it’s certainly possible to work around it or ignore it. You can also look into a warranty replacement, though many monitor manufacturers won’t replace a screen until multiple pixels have gone out.

A stuck pixel may be a different matter. Depending on exactly how the problem is manifesting, it might be possible to get the pixel back into working order. There are various techniques for this, ranging from physically “massaging” the screen panel itself to running programs that rapidly cycle a portion of the screen through the color spectrum. You can try out some of these solutions as outlined in our guide to stuck pixels, but be warned, in my personal experience, it’s exceedingly rare to find a lasting solution to a stuck pixel.

If your monitor has a visible crack, a large discolored area, or a black/multicolored spot that doesn’t align with the pixel grid, it’s been subjected to physical trauma and the LCD panel is damaged. There’s nothing you can do here: even if your monitor is within its warranty period, it almost certainly won’t cover physical damage. You could try to replace the LCD panel itself, but since the replacement part will be almost as expensive as a new monitor anyway, you might as well start shopping.

The most common problem that can cause a buzz or whine noise in a monitor is an issue with the backlight, usually with the compact florescent tubes used for lighting in older models. (This design has been largely superseded by LED backlighting, but there are still plenty of CFL-equipped monitors in use.) Buzzing can occur due to problems in power regulation to one or more bulbs. Try adjusting the brightness of your screen up or down to see if the noise dissipates; of course, this can be a less than optimal solution if you need your screen brightness at a specific setting.

Fortunately, a faulty CFL bulb is a fairly standard issue, as is a malfunctioning power regulator in various other components that can cause similar problems. If your monitor is out of its warranty period, take it to a local electronics shop—they can probably swap out the part for considerably less than the cost of a new screen.

If your screen is suddenly showing the wrong resolution for your desktop—which is indeed a pretty big deal for any PC user—the most likely culprit is your graphics card. It’s probable that either the software component (the graphics driver) or the graphics card itself is where the problem is located. Updating the driver usually fixes this problem, though a new graphics card might be in order.

A monitor that periodically turns itself off might not be getting sufficient power from the outlet or surge protector—again, check your home’s circuit breaker and make sure the power cable is correctly plugged in. It’s also possible that the internal or external power converter (the latter will be a box or “wall wart” on the power cable) is overheating. Carefully check the casing of the monitor itself or the power adapter; if either is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, they need to be replaced.

Most of the above problems can happen to the LCD screens used in laptop PCs and tablets, too…but because of the compact build, they’re much harder to repair. That being said, the extra expense of a laptop versus a monitor might make it a much better candidate for a repair rather than a replacement. At the very least (assuming you’re out of the warranty period), it’s probably worth a diagnosis and quote at a repair shop, if you’re not comfortable replacing the screen assembly yourself.

When a monitor goes bad, it severely hampers productivity. However, bad monitors don"t necessarily indicate that anything else has happened to your computer. More than likely, your important data hasn"t been affected and you can still access all of your information once the monitor gets fixed. For those that need to access data immediately, simply connect a new monitor to make sure that only the monitor was affected. Recognize the signs that a monitor has gone bad to avoid unnecessary repairs.

Testing If your monitor stops working, first check to make sure the monitor and power cables are connected properly. Connect another monitor to the computer to see if the problem is isolated to the first monitor. If the second monitor doesn"t work, you may have a bad graphics card. You"ll need to take the computer into a professional to find out for sure. If the other monitor does work, try connecting a new power supply to the bad monitor to make sure that the power supply isn"t the culprit. Additionally, try to remember if the monitor started going bad after an update or new video card driver installation. Those scenarios indicate the issue may be software related.

Pixels and Brightness If you begin to notice white spots appear on your screen, then you may have some pixels going bad. Often, as monitors start to fail, the pixels begin to fail as well. They look like small dots of white light and reduce the overall quality of the computer screen. If the overall brightness of your monitor changes, check the settings on your monitor to make sure that you didn"t inadvertently mess with the brightness and contrast buttons. If the monitor gets brighter when you turn the knob to the right, then it"s possible someone played with the settings on your monitor.

Monitor Fluctuations and Interference If you have a picture tube monitor and are noticing flickering or the monitor cuts in and out, it could be the sign of a bad component. However, see if any radios or other devices that emit frequencies are nearby. Picture tube monitors are more susceptible than LCD monitors to interference. If you notice color shifts, try moving the location of your speakers to make sure that the speakers aren"t affecting your monitor. If all of your troubleshooting provides no positive results, then the monitor may be going bad. These signs can be signs of a failing monitor or interference.

Screen Issues and Cautions Most commonly, when a monitor goes bad, it simply won"t turn on and appears completely black. If the monitor glows a faint green, or you receive a blue screen, that means there"s another hardware or software issue. Some people have fears that monitors will explode when they go bad. This is unfounded. The most that generally happens is a popping sound occurs, and that only happens with picture tube monitors. LCD monitors generally fade quickly and quietly. You might also smell a slight burning smell if the monitor has gone bad.

The difference between a LED TV and a LCD TV is that they are both LCD TV’s except one has LED stripes and the other has CCFL Backlights- (Florescent Tubes). I used a Philips Magnavox Emerson LG TV when testing these repaird, but they should work on other TV brands that are similar. Before you do any Repair, check to see if you are still under warranty, or are covered by a recall of your TV!!

If your Plasma or LCD/LED or CCFL/LCD TV or monitor has stopped working, or is displaying one of the following symptoms, then it *may* need some new capacitors in the power supply board or a replacement board

1) the front green LED of your TV comes and stays on for 20-30 seconds, then turns off for 1-2 seconds and then keeps cycling like that, but the display never comes;

2) the display comes on for a brief few seconds, then the TV shuts off; in some models the display may not even come on, but still the relay clicking on and off and the green power LED activation and shutdown can be easily observed.

Look at the screen. If you see a blank screen with a red key on the bottom of the screen, press FUNCTION and MUTE at the same time. This will unlock the channel

Choose On to disable all the buttons on the front of the TV. FPA Lock On will appear on the TV screen each time you press buttons on the front of the TV. You can still operate the TV with the remote control. You can still use the POWER button on the front of the TV, but only to turn off the TV (not on). Set FPA Lock to Off to cancel this feature so you can use the buttons on the front of the TV again.

3. Press and hold each of the remaining buttons on the TV, one at a time, for about five seconds, and then release. DO NOT use the buttons on the remote control - only use the buttons on the TV itself.

If the TV is still locked and will not respond to any commands from the front panel control buttons or the remote control unit, it is apparently locked in a failure or diagnostic mode, and would probably have to be diagnosed and repaired by a reputable TV repair facility. Good luck.

If it is a thin vertical line that appears on certain video resolution/image then it is normal and is indicated in the users manual under troubleshooting. If the line is almost half the screen, it could be a problem with the cable connection between the LCD panel and logic board, or the LCD panel itself. Try reseating the cable first if it’ll solve the problem. I’ve done similar issue in the past. Reseating the cable worked for a couple of months till eventually the LCD panel is the problem. Replacing the LCD panel is quite costly and impractical.

If the lines are there all the time or intermittent but in the same location it is an indication of a bad panel. The panel driver can also be the cause of this symptom.

If the lines/bars are across the OSD Menu, and all the video signal inputs also same result, that means the TV LCD Panel is defective Most of the time this symptom is caused by a bad LCD Panel 95%. You can try refitting LVDS Cable or replacing Main Board capacitors or replacing Main Board—5%

Bad news unfortunately, their are two possible causes for what you have described, one would be a fault with the picture drive pcb ( Power Control Board ), and the other is physical damage to the LCD cell matrix, (screen).

There’s videos on how to fix this. It has to do with putting foam, in between panel frame and screen, which applies pressure to solder joints, which then completes the circuit- Contact my10cents, for better explanation.

Big Black Bar on bottom of TV Screen– If the bar that appears in the bottom is showing the energy saving logo, HDMI, Dolby surround and pc mode capabilities look into your remote.

Is the OSD menu affected as well? If yes then possibility could be the LCD Panel or the t-con board. Since you have replaced the t-con board then possibility is the LCD panel. There could be also a possibility of mainboard where upgrading the firmware could restore the picture. If the OSD menu is not affected then the LCD panel is good.

If the lines are across the OSD menu then chances is very high the LCD panel is the cause of the problem otherwise it can be due to bad T-con board or even Mainboard. Have you tested on the OSD menu to see if the lines are really across the menu?

White Lines– There are several possibilities that can cause white lines on an lcd screen. One would be high temperature on the logic board. Logic board drives the LCD panel and when it overheats can cause this display problem. One solution would be to clean the vent holes around the TV. One possibility that I have experienced myself servicing is a bloated capacitor on the power supply board. The worst possibility is a defective LCD panel, which is costly to repair, and sometime more practical to buy a new TV set.

There are several problems that could cause this problem. It could be the connection from the T-Con board to the panel, try wiggling these cables around and see if the picture comes up even for a second. The Mainboard or it’s cables are not the issue in my opinion. The isdsue is either going to be a bad capacitor, faulty output from the power supply to the T-Con board, a bad connection from T-Con to panel, or the T Con or the panel itself are faulty.

Basic things you can do is to check the connections. If you have a cable box, check the video connections. And while doing that, unplug the TV and the cable box from the AC outlet for it to reset. These are the most likely cause of a blue screen

Most of the new TVs display a blue screen when theres no signal for it to lock on. Try unplugging it for about 5-10 minutes and see if that clears up the problem. Why? Because they have microprocessors in em (computer chips) and just as like with any other operating system, they can hang up or crash. This isnt an uncommon problem with todays TV sets. Unplugging it for awhile resets the microprocessor (in other words, it causes it to re-boot when you plug it in again).-

It could be the connection from the T-Con board to the panel, try wiggling these cables around and see if the picture comes up even for a second. The Mainboard or it’s cables are not the issue in my opinion. This is due to either a bad capacitor, faulty output from the power supply to the T-Con board, a bad connection from T-Con to panel, or the T Con or the panel itself are fault. Also, it’s possible the A/V receiver’s Video On feature was turned off by an electrical surge or something else.Turn the Video feature back to On and suddenly that bad blue screen was gone.

Your power board needs serious help–If you want to repair you have to replace Switching Mosfets, disc capacitors and of course the main fuse, Rectifier Diodes and most of the time the transformer–Costly–Easier to replace Power Board–There is a chance the strike come through the cable line, so it’s possible the Main Board needs repair–That’s a small chance though, but I thought I’d let you know–Replacing power board should repair your TV. During a lightning storm, electrical power surges is induced to the transmission line eventually end to our household appliances. Our TV sets, computers are the most susceptible. For the TV set, the basic cure is to leave the TV unplug from the AC outlet for it to discharge and reset

5. wait another 30 seconds and some type of picture should appear—If that does not work–Unplug TV for 10 minutes and then hold power button on TV for 60 seconds–Plug in and turn on.

Now we need to know if PSU Board has all the correct output voltages. This means checking the secondary side output voltages of Power Board. Probable causes are the Power Supply, the T-Con board, Main Board or the LCD panel itself has failed.

Solutions: If the unit tries to turn on but begins to cycle on and off before any video is displayed and all of the SMPS (Power Board ) voltages are good, disconnect the LVDS cable at the T-Con board

You will have to go into the TV and check for capacitors or burn marks or cracked solder around the pins–Main board could be IC’s, or regulators–Panel–Disconnect panel and see if your TV stay’s on—

The flashing green light indicates a fault on the power board inside your TV. This will be due to a faulty component like a capacitor or voltage regulator. Faulty electrolytic capacitors on the power board are the most common cause of this problem. These capacitors will often leak and stop working as the TV set gets older,but could also be caused by the Main Board or the inverter board. (LCD TV ONLY) So we will have to take a look inside and maybe do some circuit testing and a visual of your boards-

In a dark room take a flashlight and at an angle shine it on the screen and see if you can see any movement. If you can see movement or see your menu then its backlight failure. If totally black screen with sound then its T-Con board. So if you see movement on a led screen, then it’s your LEDs inside the panel. If on a LCD TV you see movement and lamps are not turning on, replace inverter. If with a LCD TV your lamps turn on, with no picture replace T-Con Board.

Plasma is the most durable in terms of panel failure. LED/LCD is terrible for panel failure. (But every model gets bad apples. Samsung LED/LCD panels die frequently. LG panels are a lot more reliable.) Overall I’d say plasma is more reliable, and even if it fails, in most cases plasma is repairable, LED/LCD is expensive to repair and often difficult to troubleshoot.

3)- Switches off for a second or two intermittently. Relay clicks and standby LED remains green. Switches off intermittently with green LED on, no sound or no picture.

A blurry image on a high-definition LCD TV is typically the result of a mismatch between the TVs resolution capabilities and the resolution of the signal that is coming from connected devices, such as a DVD player or satellite TV receiver. Typically, blurry pictures result when a peripheral device connects to the TV through non HD cables and jacks.

We must verify whether the problem is the display screen of the laptop, video card (GPU), or video settings on the computer. A straightforward way to identify this is to connect the laptop to an external monitor or TV.

If the issue persists on the external monitor, it may be an issue with the video card (GPU) or video settings and not the laptop LCD panel. Go to verify display or video issues in Windows Safe Mode. Otherwise, go to the next step.

Performance issues may occur if there is any damage to the LCD screen. The display may stop working, work intermittently, flicker, display horizontal or vertical lines, and so on, if there is damage to the display screen.

Dell laptops have integrated diagnostic tools that can determine if the screen abnormality is an inherent problem with the LCD screen of the Dell laptop or with the video card (GPU) and computer settings.

When you notice screen abnormalities like flickering, distortion, clarity issues, fuzzy or blurry images, horizontal or vertical lines, color fade, running a diagnostic test on the LCD helps identify if the issue is with the LCD panel.

Press and hold the D key and turn on the computer to enter the LCD built-in self-test (BIST) mode. Continue to hold the D key until you see the entire screen change colors.

If you do not detect any screen abnormalities in the integrated self-test mode, the LCD panel of the laptop is functioning properly. Go to the Update the video card (GPU) driver, monitor driver, and BIOS section.

If you notice any abnormalities in the LCD built-in self-test mode, contact Dell Technical Support to learn more about repair options that are available in your region.

Windows Safe Mode does not load any drivers, startup applications, third-party services. This will help us identify if the issue is related to the operating system, video settings, device drivers, or third-party software. To learn how to boot your computer into Safe Mode, see the Dell knowledge base article below based on the operating system that is installed on the computer:

Display settings like brightness, refresh rate, resolution, and power management may affect the performance of the LCD screen on your Dell laptop. Changing or adjusting the display settings can help resolve several types of video issues.

NOTE: Depending on the model of the Dell laptop, the shortcut keys to adjust or change the brightness may differ. See the User Guide or User Manual of your Dell laptop for model-specific information.

If the diagnostic tests on the LCD panel and the video card (GPU) passed, it is most definitely an issue that is related to software that is installed on the computer. If the above troubleshooting steps did not resolve the issue, you may try to restore the computer to factory default settings as a last resort.

WARNING: Restoring or resetting the computer to factory default settings will erase all personal data on the computer. Back up all important data like documents, images, music files, spreadsheets, videos to an external hard drive or a cloud-based backup like Microsoft OneDrive.

Dell computers are built with a small amount of hard disk space that is reserved for reinstalling the operating system. This method is the easiest way to restore the computer to factory condition. The restoration process deletes all user data from the computer, so be sure to back up all your files before starting this process.

Performance issues may occur if there is any type of damage that is caused to the display cables or the LCD screen. LCD screen may show that symptoms like LCD screen stops working, work intermittently, color mismatch, flickering, display horizontal or vertical lines if there is damage to the display cables or the LCD screen.

Dell monitors can be reset to factory default settings using the on-screen display (OSD) menu. This can be accessed using the buttons or joystick that is available on the Dell monitor. For step-by-step instructions to reset a Dell monitor to factory default settings, see the User Guide of your Dell monitor at the Dell Manuals website.

Windows Safe Mode allows us to identify if the issue is related to the operating system, video settings, device drivers, or a third-party software. To learn more about how to boot your Dell computer into Safe Mode, see the Dell knowledge base article that is listed below based on the operating system that is installed on your computer:

Display settings like brightness, refresh rate, resolution, and power management may affect the performance of your Dell monitor. Changing the display settings can help resolve several types of video issues.

If the diagnostic tests on the Dell monitor and video card (GPU) passed, it is most definitely an issue that is related to software that is installed on your computer. If the above troubleshooting steps did not resolve the issue, to restore your computer to factory defaults as a last resort.

Dell computers are built with a small amount of hard disk space that is reserved for reinstalling your operating system. This method is the easiest way to restore your computer to factory condition. The restoration process deletes all user data from the computer, back up all your files before starting this process.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

If the CRT is the problem, it is often not worth repairing. If the CRT is out of warranty, parts and labor may cost more than buying a new CRT, which also gives you better specs and a warranty. About the only CRTs we"d even consider repairing out-of-warranty are high-end 21" or larger models, and even there the economics are dubious.

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

Check the obvious things first. Verify that the CRT is plugged in (and that the receptacle has power), the video cable is connected to the video card, the computer and CRT are turned on, and the brightness and contrast settings are set to the middle of their range. If none of these steps solves the problem, your CRT, video card, or video cable may be bad. Check the suspect CRT on a known-good system or a known-good CRT on the problem system.

If you have ACPI or APM power management enabled, it may be causing the problem. Some systems simply refuse to wake up once power management puts them to sleep. We have seen such systems survive a hardware reset without restoring power to the CRT. To verify this problem, turn off power to the system and CRT and then turn them back on. If the CRT then displays an image, check the power management settings in your BIOS and operating system and disable them if necessary.

This is a hardware problem with one of the electron guns. Replace the CRT. This problem may also manifest as a strong color cast during normal operation that is not correctable using the normal color balance controls.

Catastrophic CRT failure is imminent. The noises are caused by high-voltage arcing, and the smell is caused by burning insulation. Unplug the CRT from the wall before it catches fire, literally.

There are two likely causes. First, you may be driving the CRT beyond its design limits. Some CRTs display a usable image at resolutions and/or refresh rates higher than they are designed to use, but under such abuse the expected life of the CRT is shortened dramatically, perhaps to minutes. To correct this problem, change video settings to values that are within the CRT"s design specifications. Second, the power receptacle may be supplying voltage lower than the CRT requires. To correct this problem, connect the CRT to a different circuit or to a UPS or power conditioner that supplies standard voltage regardless of input voltage.

The most likely cause is that the CRT is receiving inadequate power. Connect it to a different circuit or to a backup power supply that provides correct voltage regardless of fluctuations in mains voltage.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

Depending on the CRT, video card, and video settings, this may be normal behavior, adjustable using the CRT controls. If the distortion is beyond the ability of the controls to correct, the problem may be with the video card, the CRT, or the driver. First try changing video settings. If the problem persists at several settings, move that CRT to a different system (or use a different video card) to determine whether the problem is caused by the CRT or video card. Repair or replace the faulty component.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

This problem may also be caused by using a video cable that is too long or of poor quality or by using a poor-quality KVM switch (keyboard/video/mouse switch). Manual KVM switches are particularly problematic.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with na