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An electric bicycle (e-bike, eBike, etc.) is a motorized bicycle with an integrated electric motor used to assist propulsion. Many kinds of e-bikes are available worldwide, but they generally fall into two broad categories: bikes that assist the rider"s pedal-power (i.e. pedelecs) and bikes that add a throttle, integrating moped-style functionality. Both retain the ability to be pedaled by the rider and are therefore not electric motorcycles. E-bikes use rechargeable batteries and typically are motor-powered up to 25 to 32 km/h (16 to 20 mph). High-powered varieties can often travel more than 45 km/h (28 mph).
With time passing many ebike brands emerge and took fame in countries worldwide. And as the e-bike"s popularity increase so did the competition between manufacturers to provide the best quality and features to customers in order to stay at top.
The main advantage mid-drive motors have over hub motors is that power is applied through the chain (or belt) and thus it utilizes the existing rear gears (either external or internal). This allows for the motor to operate more efficiently at a wider range of vehicle speeds. Without utilizing the bicycle"s gears, equivalent hub motors tend to be less effective propelling the ebike slowly up steep hills and also propelling the ebike fast on the flat.
It has all the typical accouterments you’d expect from a sub-$2,000 electric fat bike: A 750W motor, a suspension fork and a solid component package — but where the Aventure sets itself apart are in its little details. Details like its full-color LCD display, metal fenders, hydraulic disk brakes and a slightly larger than average battery. Or the fact that this is one of the few e-bikes in this category and at this price point with a fully integrated battery that blends seamlessly into the frame.
The LCD display is large and easy to read at a glance. And the scale for the battery charge looked like a ruler and offers a finer sense than something with four or five bars. Having the display mounted at the stem also helps its readability. The backswept cruiser bar is very comfortable and we love the twist shifter; we prefer it to many other shifters we encounter.
Even though this is a budget-oriented model, Aventon doesn’t go cheap; the Soltera is equipped with the full-color LCD display, companion app and inset taillight
The battery is the energy source that powers an electric bicycle and is typically the most expensive part of an ebike system. In the early days of ebikes most batteries were lead acid, Nickel Cadmium, or NiMH, but modern ebike batteries are almost exclusively lithium-ion. As lithium battery technology matured it got lighter, more powerful, more reliable, and with increasingly long cycle life. It"s at a point that now a modern lithium battery made with top-tier cells is 8-10 times lighter than the lead batteries of yesteryear, and when not abused they can be expected to provide well over 5-6 years of regular use.
The number of cells in the battery and the way they are wired together in series and parallel determines the voltage and capacity (amp-hours or Ah) of the final pack. Most ebike batteries are wired up for either 36 Volts or 48V, but you will also see ebike packs that are as low as 24V or as high as 72V. Lower voltage systems draw higher current from the pack which can require heavier gauge wires and connectors, while higher voltage systems can get to the point of being an electrocution risk. 36-52V is generally a sweet spot in the tradeoff, totally safe from electrical shock and with low enough amperage draw for inexpensive thin gauge wiring and connectors. That"s why most ebikes use this voltage range.
The size or capacity of a battery can be expressed in amp-hours (Ah) or watt-hours (Wh), where the watt-hours is just the amp-hours multiplied by the voltage. It is the watt-hours of a battery that determines the total energy stored inside the pack and hence how much range it will deliver. Most ebike batteries range from 300 to about 800 watt-hours.
Factory ebikes often integrate the battery pack into the frame tubing of the bike to provide a very tidy external appearance. This seems great until the time comes that the battery needs to be replaced, and the bike model is long discontinued with no one producing that one special shape of battery pack. Conversion kits batteries are usually designed either to mount on the downtube inside the triangle, or on a rear carrier rack. Since they aren"t integrated to the bike they can easily be changed around and upgraded down the road.
The electric motor turns electrical energy from the battery into mechanical power to move the bike. The motor can be located in many places on a bike but at Grin we focus exclusively on hub motors for the reasons explained here. In a hub motor, the electric motor is inside either the front or rear bicycle hub, allowing for a fairly simple conversion where you replace a regular bike wheel with the motorized wheel. Nearly all ebike motors these days are permanent magnet Brushless DC (BLDC) motors which have 3 phase wires for supplying motor power. In addition to these 3 phase wires to power the hub, they also typically have 5 hall sensor wires that allow the electronics to determine the motor position in order to spin the smoothly at low speed. These wires may be split into separate connectors, or integrated into a single plug that has both the power an signal wires in one.
Typical ebike hub motors are wound for around 8 rpm/V, but we usually carry faster winding choices of 10 to 12 rpm/V as well in order to support various applications with smaller wheels diameters and more flexible battery voltages. On our website, we list the RPM/V of each motor winding in the specification table and product description. Unfortunately this information is almost impossible to glean on most other manufacturer and vendor websites.
The motor controller is a component that is unfamiliar to many people, but it is an essential piece of any ebike hardware since you can"t directly connect a brushless motor to a battery pack. The motor controller serves two critical functions
The motor controllers contain at least 6 power mosfets, large capacitors, and connectors for throttles, brake cutoffs, and displays. The controller circuitboard is often fit in an extruded aluminum box, either mounted externally on the bike or tucked inside the chassis somewhere. It"s also common to have the motor controller located inside the hub motor or inside the battery mounting cradle. In these latter options, the controller is hidden from view for cleaner ebike with fewer visible components, but it is more challenging to repair or replace a damaged controller when it is integrated this way.
Those three items, the battery, motor, and controller are the main elements of an ebike system, but there are a number of accessories and add-on components that round out the package
Almost all controllers have a throttle input plug, and luckily the throttle signal is one of the few things that has been very well standardized in the ebike industry, even if the connectors that they use are all over the map. Virtual all throttles use hall sensors and a magnet to detect the throttle position and sit at about 0.8-0.9V when thee throttle is off, and rise to 3.6-4V as the throttle is engaged.
While a throttle lets you control the motor power with your hands, a PAS sensor or Torque sensor allows the ebike to be controlled from your pedaling. Cadence PAS sensors are readily installed on an existing crankset and send signals to the bike whenever you are spinning the pedals, while torque sensors usually require replacing the bottom bracket and measure not only if you are pedaling but also how hard you pushing on the cranks.
An ebrake sensor is an optional device used to tell the motor controller when you are pressing the brake levers. There are two reasons people would want an ebrake sensor on their ebike. One is to have a safety cutoff, so that no matter what the motor will shut off whenever you press the brake levers. The second reason is to activate regenerative braking on hub motor systems that support regen. That allows you to squeeze the brakes a little bit and have the motor switch from powering the bicycle to providing a smooth an steady braking force, with the braking energy going right back into charging the battery pack.
Almost all ebike kits and full ebikes these days include a fairly detailed display computer to provide a dashboard to see what"s going on. This is a nice enhancement from the early days of ebikes when most systems had just a few LEDs to indicate the battery level. But unlike displays for computers or televisions which have a standard protocol, the displays that connect to ebike motor controllers have no standardization at all either in function, communication bus (I2C, Canbus, LIN, UART, etc), or communication protocol. The displays are generally developed paired with a specific motor controller and for a specific set of kit functions, and it"s very rare that you can switch to a different make of motor controller and have it work with your display, or conversely that you could find an alternate display for your particular controller.
We bring up hall sensors not because it"s an separate part of an ebike system, but because they are often brought up in the troubleshooting and component interchangeability. 3 Phase brushless DC motors typically include three hall sensors that indicate the rotational position of the rotor.