goldline chlorine lcd panel blanks out free sample

I have an Aqua-Rite SCG with a T-9 cell. When I set the output % to a certain value on the display it will change on it’s own without the knob being adjusted. It will be 20P one day then 11P the next. Is there a fix for this?

My Aqua-rite doesn"t have a T cell option. I just replaced the salt cell with a Hayward TCELL940 ( which is supposed to be compatible with TCELL 15). Since I can"t select what type of TCELL will it default to a TCELL 15? Also the diagnostic control panel was set on "AL-1" instead of "AL-0". I was having trouble with salt cell and wondering if that could have caused it.

The two most likely suspects are the Main PCB or the cell. Because you have already replaced the board, I"d say the cell is bad. You can rule out the board by checking the amperage in both polarities. To do this, press the diagnostics button three times. This should bring up the amperage. Write that number down. To switch the polarity, move the main switch from Auto to Off and back to Auto. That will give you the amperage in the second polarity. If either one of those readings is 0, the board needs to be replaced.

The two most likely suspects are the Main PCB or the cell. Because you have already replaced the board, I"d say the cell is bad. You can rule out the board by checking the amperage in both polarities. To do this, press the diagnostics button three times. This should bring up the amperage. Write that number down. To switch the polarity, move the main switch from Auto to Off and back to Auto. That will give you the amperage in the second polarity. If either one of those readings is 0, the board needs to be replaced.

My cell is a TCELL940-W and my system is running version 1.59. After a power outage, I was getting no chlorine and the "check salt" and "check cell" lights were both on. The instant salt reading kept saying 700 when the actual salt reading, verified 3 ways, is 3000. What is the appropriate t setting, t3, t5, t9, or t15?

When I press the diagnostic button 9 times the LCD does not display the average salt reading (default display). If the diagnostic button is not pushed pushed for 30 seconds the display does not revert back to the average salt reading (default display). Help with this would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

If the screen is damaged, then you need to replace the whole AquaRite display board - GLX-PCB-DSP or you need to get out the soldering iron to install a new LCD screen.

Does the aqua rite unit, depending on the output percentage, shut the cell on and off , or just raise or lower the voltage to generate the percentage set.

I have a aqua rite chlorine generator. I wanted to check my salt level after I opened the pool this week. I turned the system off and then back on to recalibrate the system. When I turned it back on the digital readout started to blank out. I tried again reset the system. On the 3rd try all the lights came on for approx 10 sec, and then went out. I turned the system off and now the power light and the generating light stay on with the system off. Also the digital read out is still blank. Is my circuit board bad? I would order a new one but want to see if anyone else has had this problem before I spend $200

The most common concern we get for salt system owners is that the the salt cell is not producing chlorine. However, very often this concern is only triggered because the pool turned green or the water test shows zero free chlorine. More often, if the salt system is fairly new (only a few years old) we find that there"s nothing actually wrong with the system. The pump just isn"t being ran long enough or the chlorine output is too low, or the pool is not being shocked as needed. Oh yeah, salt pools still need to be shocked. However, if your salt system has a light on or flashing we have additional resources for you. While the examples to follow specifically showcase Hayward Salt Systems, the resources are applicable to other brands.

- 2700ppm. In this condition chlorine is still being produced. The ‘Check Salt’ & ‘Inspect Cell’ LEDs will be ON when the cell reports the salt level is 2300ppm or less. In this condition, chlorine

The ‘High Salt’ LED will be ON when the cell amperage is above the maximum limit. The ‘High Salt’ LED may also be ON if the wrong Turbo Cell is being used. The Aqua Trol systems are designed to only work with the t-5 model. The LCD display will read ‘HI’ when the amperage is above 6.40.

Note: Salt Brushing the salt around will speed up the dissolving process. Do not allow the salt to sit in a pile at the bottom of the pool. Salt water is heavier than fresh water so the salt water will tend to accumulate at the deepest part of the pool. Run the filter system with the suction coming from the main drain for 24 hours to evenly distribute the salt throughout the pool.

Russell, your scenario is matching my aqua rite problem, I am also in Texas and think this was power related. I checked out the STI Trade ebay site and they were not selling the SL32-2R025-B anymore, I found the part on the Digi-key website however they didn’t specify the -B (SL32-2R025 only). Do you know if this is still compatible?

talk about “not getting it”. Why would people be HERE if they just wanted to buy a new board? Learn who your audience is. This is a HELP place, not a sales place