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Just opened the pool and my Aqua Rite LED opens/starts by showing "90P," which is the the "Desired Output" code, which should be the fourth display after opening with the Salt Level. Resetting makes no difference. Do I need a new motherboard?

If the pool water foams when adding water, it"s telling you it has high levels of total dissolved solids (TDS); you need to clean your pool with a clarifier or flocculant. Is the chlorinator creating chlorine? Is the chlorinator showing a "No Flow" when the flow switch is installed?

When on super chlorinate, the cell runs for 24-hours straight. When you select Auto, the cell reverts to the output percentage selected. So, if you have a 40% set as the output, the cell will only run 40% during any given hour. The cell will alternate turning on/off in an hour in any given hour; it would produce chlorine for 40 percent of the time while not producing chlorine 60 percent. You may just be looking at the box when the cell is in the middle of an off-cycle.

I just replaced my t-cell. Display is working, but salt level reading never changes from 2500. I tested input power with volt meter and got 123.1 reading. The power/generating/super chlorinate LED come on, stay on 16 seconds, then go off for about 40 seconds, then back on for 15 - 18 seconds, then off again for about 15 seconds. Round the clock! Help!

Here is the problem: When starting up, the no flow light blinks, then generating light glows, but no "power" light. The generating light then goes off. I replaced the PCB as a lightning storm fried it, Replaced the cell (fortunately under warranty and it was free), did then diagnostic tests and all resistances and AC voltage input was within tolerances. However the VAC coming out of the transformer only measures 11 Volts. I am feeling the transformer needs replacement also. Could this be the issue?

My aqua-rite salt level started showing 2.2 instead of 3200. I don"t know where the decimal point thing came from...I have had this system 10 years and changed the main board twice but I never had the salt level display with a decimal point. My salt cell is only 1 month old. I have disconnected it...done everything. It is still generating because I check my chlorine daily with a electronic device and test strips. Has anyone had this happen to them and how do you fix it. The decimal point thing isn"t going to work for me.

I would make sure that your control panel is set to the correct cell size. This value can be changed by accident pretty easily. You can also try recalibrating the salt level. This guide gives you the steps on how to complete both of those tasks, and a few other things to check: Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Did they check that the flow switch is working correctly? Unscrew the flow switch from the plumbing tee and pinch the metal flap and rod together for a minute. If the no flow light doesn"t go out, you have a bad flow switch.

i have an aquarite generator. i"m not producing any chlorine. I changed the cell but the control panel is still doing the same thing - so appears it wasn"t the cell. Both the power and generating lights come on solid green for 15 seconds and then turn off for one minute. During that minute the voltage climbs from 3 to 18. a few seconds after the power and generating lights turn solid green - the voltage drops back down to 3. this cycle is just repeating itself over and over again. Assume there"s an issue with one of the components in the control panel? thx for your help!

Hello Dean- We"d recommend checking the current limiter on the main circuit board. It"s a flat round black disk that sticks out from the board. That piece can crack and cause symptoms like you are experiencing. Click here to view a video that shows the replacement of a current limiter. For more tips, check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide and the Quick Reference Guide.

I have an Aqua-Rite SCG with a T-9 cell. When I set the output % to a certain value on the display it will change on it’s own without the knob being adjusted. It will be 20P one day then 11P the next. Is there a fix for this?

My Aqua-rite doesn"t have a T cell option. I just replaced the salt cell with a Hayward TCELL940 ( which is supposed to be compatible with TCELL 15). Since I can"t select what type of TCELL will it default to a TCELL 15? Also the diagnostic control panel was set on "AL-1" instead of "AL-0". I was having trouble with salt cell and wondering if that could have caused it.

The two most likely suspects are the Main PCB or the cell. Because you have already replaced the board, I"d say the cell is bad. You can rule out the board by checking the amperage in both polarities. To do this, press the diagnostics button three times. This should bring up the amperage. Write that number down. To switch the polarity, move the main switch from Auto to Off and back to Auto. That will give you the amperage in the second polarity. If either one of those readings is 0, the board needs to be replaced.

The two most likely suspects are the Main PCB or the cell. Because you have already replaced the board, I"d say the cell is bad. You can rule out the board by checking the amperage in both polarities. To do this, press the diagnostics button three times. This should bring up the amperage. Write that number down. To switch the polarity, move the main switch from Auto to Off and back to Auto. That will give you the amperage in the second polarity. If either one of those readings is 0, the board needs to be replaced.

My cell is a TCELL940-W and my system is running version 1.59. After a power outage, I was getting no chlorine and the "check salt" and "check cell" lights were both on. The instant salt reading kept saying 700 when the actual salt reading, verified 3 ways, is 3000. What is the appropriate t setting, t3, t5, t9, or t15?

When I press the diagnostic button 9 times the LCD does not display the average salt reading (default display). If the diagnostic button is not pushed pushed for 30 seconds the display does not revert back to the average salt reading (default display). Help with this would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

If the screen is damaged, then you need to replace the whole AquaRite display board - GLX-PCB-DSP or you need to get out the soldering iron to install a new LCD screen.

Does the aqua rite unit, depending on the output percentage, shut the cell on and off , or just raise or lower the voltage to generate the percentage set.

The most common concern we get for salt system owners is that the the salt cell is not producing chlorine. However, very often this concern is only triggered because the pool turned green or the water test shows zero free chlorine. More often, if the salt system is fairly new (only a few years old) we find that there"s nothing actually wrong with the system. The pump just isn"t being ran long enough or the chlorine output is too low, or the pool is not being shocked as needed. Oh yeah, salt pools still need to be shocked. However, if your salt system has a light on or flashing we have additional resources for you. While the examples to follow specifically showcase Hayward Salt Systems, the resources are applicable to other brands.

- 2700ppm. In this condition chlorine is still being produced. The ‘Check Salt’ & ‘Inspect Cell’ LEDs will be ON when the cell reports the salt level is 2300ppm or less. In this condition, chlorine

The ‘High Salt’ LED will be ON when the cell amperage is above the maximum limit. The ‘High Salt’ LED may also be ON if the wrong Turbo Cell is being used. The Aqua Trol systems are designed to only work with the t-5 model. The LCD display will read ‘HI’ when the amperage is above 6.40.

Note: Salt Brushing the salt around will speed up the dissolving process. Do not allow the salt to sit in a pile at the bottom of the pool. Salt water is heavier than fresh water so the salt water will tend to accumulate at the deepest part of the pool. Run the filter system with the suction coming from the main drain for 24 hours to evenly distribute the salt throughout the pool.

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