juno g lcd screen free sample

2023-01-03 12:32:11

I have got a Juno G that I bought with two issues, channel R did not work (today fixed) and the well know LCD issue. Tried to fix the LCD with no replacement, the results are no stables only ¼ upper right seems to work without problems. Because is hard to find original LCD and expensive, contacted several distributors like instrumentalparts in these days say are reengineering a new one, and others here in Europe haven’t stock.

Like a vintage computer collector, I’ve seen proyects to use new hardware in old computer using raspberry and arduino translating old code from the computer to new code of the hardware to work like USB mices, keyboards, Gotek and more. I’m working in computer support but I am not a programmer arduino may be a possible final solution to this problem using it between Juno and new and more cheap LCDs or even TFTs. I’m going to explore this by myself but if there is somebody in this forum that know arduino or another kit can do this will be interesting.

juno g lcd screen free sample

The sonically charged Juno-G workstation just got recharged with the introduction of Version 2.0 software, adding Fantom-series audio sampling functionality that you can use along-side all the other powerful Juno-G features. Version 2.0 software is a free download. The upgrade is easy to perform and in minutes, you’ll be sampling, chopping and sequencing your new sounds.Sample audio from external sources or import audio phrases from the Juno-G’s compact flash memory.

NOTE: The update files that you download and save to your computer from the link above are enclosed in a compressed zip file. These files will need to be extracted from the zip file before you can update your machine. You can do this by using the WinZip application on your PC running Windows XP, or by using Stuffit Expander on your Macintosh (needed for OS 10.2.x or below). If you’re using Mac OS X 10.3.x or above, then you will not need Stuffit Expander.

juno g lcd screen free sample

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A few days ago I picked up a used Roland Juno-G in nice shape from a local second hand music store for a hundred bucks. This is actually my second Juno-G as I purchased one about a year ago in mint shape with a working LCD screen. The LCD screen still works today which is great considering Juno-G LCD screens are breaking down like crazy now. It’s days are numbered though for sure. The second Juno-G had a failed LCD screen but the reason I bought it was because inside there was a Roland SRX-07 Vintage Keys expansion board. Plus there was a 512MB ram stick and a really nice soft case included. The Juno-G itself is in excellent condition with the only exception being the bad LCD screen. I felt it was a good purchase because those SRX-07 expansion boards are over $300 on Ebay now. I took out the SRX-07 board and put it in my Fantom X7.

After some research over the past few days I’ve come to the conclusion that there is absolutely no known or “consistent” fix for the LCD screen. This is unfortunate because the Juno-G has a pretty nice feature set that would have made it a nice synth to keep and use for some time. Here is a consolidated rundown of fixes that worked for some, but ultimately failed or will fail.

1. Replacement LCD Screen – So far just about everyone who has forked over money for a replacement LCD screen has experienced a 2nd, 3rd, and in some cases a 4th failure of the LCD screen. There is no way I’m going to spend $200 or so on a replacement LCD screen for the Juno-G knowing that it’s just going to break down again within months or even a year of replacement. That’s crazy! At this time there does not seem to be any known replacement LCD Screen for the Juno-G.

2. Ribbon Cable Fix – I’ve been intrigued about a ribbon cable fix that suggests the LCD cables need to be heated near the connection on the LCD PCB board. I’ve read an account from someone in Germany who fixed their LCD this way but I have yet to find any specific details to how this was done. There does seem to be an agreement among many technicians that the ribbon cables are the root of the problem, but we just don’t know where. Note that Roland is said to have replaced the two small interconnecting ribbon cables on the LCD PCB with a longer one, however, in almost every case the LCD resulted in failure. So I don’t think replacing two short cables with one long one fixed the problem at all.

3. Updating the OS to v2.0 – Contrary to what’s been written around the web, OS version 2 does absolutely NOTHING to fix the LCD issue. Do not believe otherwise. This is an absolute myth.

4. Other things that do NOT work are cleaning the synth, swapping the ribbon cables, working the job wheel or sliders in a frantic manner, powering off and then on after 5 minutes, or sprinkling pixie dust over the Juno-G.

Like a few other synths I’ve worked on, it seems the exact problem with LCD screen is still a mystery with the general public. I believe Roland knows the exact problem but of course they are not going to say a word. I’ve lived in Japan long enough to know how Japanese companies like Roland work so that’s no surprise. What is a surprise is that the Roland Juno-G is a decent synth with a lot of great functionality and features on board. Why nobody has cracked the the LCD puzzle yet is interesting. All I know is that I don’t plan to sell either of my Juno-G synths just yet. I really believe IF the LCD problem gets solved they will definitely get some attention again and could even become popular for stage performance.

Currently I have my Roland Juno-G with the LCD problem sitting on my work bench. I’m going to do my best to solve the problem because I believe the solution does not require an LCD replacement or a cable change. I really only think it requires understanding how those cables work and finding a way to attachment them in a more effective manner that improves the contact of the LCD. Perhaps there is a power supply problem, or maybe another issue, but I really do think the answer is in there somewhere.

Unless proven otherwise, as of the date of this post I absolutely see no solution at all right now for replacing or fixing the Juno-G LCD screen. Nothing out there works including the Roland repair. I would like to find out more about the “heat” or “solder” solution from the gentleman in Germany but that’s like finding a needle in a haystack. There is zero information in the Yahoo groups and the info on Roland Clan is dated at best. Other forums and blogs have bits of information here and there but nothing solid.

UPDATE #1 – It’s gone!! I stripped the second Juno-G for spare parts and then chucked the rest into the garbage bin this morning. The Roland Juno-G is a lost cause with the crappy LCD screen they installed. I would avoid this synth like the plague and stick to the Fantom series instead or later Juno series synths. Luckily I didn’t waste my money in that I got a working SRX-07 Vintage keys expansion board, nice case, 512MB memory stick, and some replacement knobs. Sayonara Roland Juno-G!!

juno g lcd screen free sample

The software upgrade adds user sampling and sample-pad triggering to the feature set, letting you expand your sound library. Using the external input, you can capture audio from a microphone, a CD/MP3 player, etc., and assign the recorded sound to a front-panel button where it can be triggered like a pad.

juno g lcd screen free sample

great write up on the repair! I try and do as many repairs myself as I can. Did you buy the LCD screen from Roland then? Do you know where to obtain LCD display screens? The screen on my Roland TD-20 is half blanking out and I would love to fix it myself. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you for the kind words. Yes, I bought the LCD screen from Roland Customer Support. Cost about 140 for the Juno-G. Took about 10 days to ship to me. There are a few third party websites that sell lcd display replacements. Try searching the google. If the TD-20 is similar to the Juno, then the replacement is definitely doable yourself. The ribbon cables made everything very easy.

Its pretty easy to replace parts and boards.just be carefull not to lose your way,write down each move and then work backward.make sure you have no static discharge,good luck!!!!!!!!

I appreciate the response but I have since found a smashed LCD with the chips I wanted to remove to try to fix the LCD I have. I haven’t tried yet – just wanted to see if it is the LCD itself or the driver chips on it that fail.

So much for replacing the LCD Display. New post coming. Don’t buy a Juno-G! The LCD display is crap. The new display I purchased went bad 4 months after replacing the other one that went bad.

Thank you! :-)Loving the Journeys you share here. :>One fuethrr request: would you please put in one of those ‘subscribe to comments’ plug-ins so that we readers could follow the conversational goodnesses? :-)I didn’t realize you’d replied to my comment until I came back just now for a different reason. :-)Have an Awesome!

Never had a D-50. Did have a RD-600 for 10 years when I used to play out. Thing was beast! Seriously, I’m really sad about the quality in the Juno-G. I can make music so fast on it, but I’m gonna get rid of it. I already know Roland products, so I want to stay in the Roland family and maybe get a Fantom, but I’m worried about the quality again.

Hi, the light in my display doesn´t turn on, i can see every thing but in the day light cause the orage light went gone, some one has repaired it?… can you tell me how, or i need to buy a display new?

Probably need to buy a new one. Before you take the keyboard to your local music store for repair, just call Roland support and describe the problem. If the problem is covered by warranty, they will fix it for free, but you will have to pay for shipping to them. They will also pay for shipping back to you.

Keith–question: given your update, and given yours and others having the same problem after swapping out the screen, would it make sense to just ship it to Roland/have an authorized Roland dealer repair it?

I think you should call them and describe the problem and ask them what they suggest. I’m unclear on which parts are under warranty, so I’m not sure if they will charge you or not. They told me to ship it to them, and if it was a problem with a part under warranty, they’d fix it and ship it back for free. Seems fair enough.

ASR-10 was the sampler I always wanted as a kid! I had a SQ1 I bough in 1990, my first workstation. I was in high school and college, so couldn’t afford to buy a ASR. The SQ1 was fun, but underpowered. I would have to output the audio to cakewalk and cut out latency delays that would occur when the sequencer was stepping through different sequences.

I’ve gone away from computer based recording last couple years. I spent too much time trying to get my computer hardware and software and interface and control surface, etc…. working. I like just switching on my keyboard and getting to work, even if the screens are a little small. I’m hoping Roland comes out with a workstation with a big fat touchscreen like the korgs have.

LCD diplay on my daughter’s 3 year old Roland E50 needs replaced. Roland said they have to ship from Japan – none in stock. Will take 4-6 weeks and cost approx $480. Any suggestions?

WOW!!! $480??? Sheesh… I know this an old post, but people still come across this so anyway, for that price you might as well just buy her a whole nother,(<—not even a real word lol), keyboard…a used GW-8 maybe…I am going to be purchasing a JUNO G within the next few hours and am glad I found this because the guy at the store said "Uh yeah dude, the screen is done" so I said "that"s fine, I"ll just buy a replacement and install it myself". now all I am trying to do is get them to lower the price just a bit to help offset the cost of the screen. The Juno G would fit right into my tiny setup since. An MPC 2000 and my mixer/recorder. the Akai MPC 2000"s are notorious for the bad screens. They will share this ironically common trait.

Hi Keith! I’ve got the same problem with my Juno-G LCD! Could you please email me how can i contact Roland support team? I live in Riga, Latvia. I’ve found their phone number only. But for me it would be better to write to them, cause my english is not so pretty to speak about the problem:) Thanks in advance!

I tried approaching ‘fortress’ Roland but it was a total brick wall – they don’t seem to be accepting any liability for Juno-G screens – which makes them pure bastards in my book!

I was concerned about removing ribbon cables and tried to do the whole thing without removing any – but this became impossible when I got to the central board. However I then realised from looking at the screens ribbon, that you simply pull the plastic ribbon from the plastic housing !!! I had tried pulling the whole housing off from the previous ribbons, and gave up because they wouldn’t come loose – I had no idea that ribbon cables attach this simply; I could easily have broken housings – call me a dummy, but I feel others may also not realise this.

Also you did not mention the mystery metal bar that falls out when you remove the case, took me a while to figure out where it went back, but quite simply, there is no need to remove the 5 bottom screws in the base (opposite the keys). Mine had double washers on them. These simply hold the metal bar in place, and can stay as part of the back casing.

I’ve had years of experience repairing PC’s but this was a slightly different ball game, a little nerve racking, especialy when it came to switch on time lol, but I would now be happy doing it again – just go real slow and careful, especialy when cutting the 2 cable ties that get in the way.

I used my camera to take photos when bits got tricky, so I could reassemble properly, this worked for me when it came to replacing the middle metal bracket to the central board – I had put it in the wrong place and it was interfering with the main ribbon cable running along the bottom half!

Sorry, me again – as a side note, the serial stamps on the back of my new screen had ‘revision C’ written on them – I hope this means it’s the revised non-breaking version, as my original screen did not have this marking.

Power fluctuation is the major cause of burning the Display.thats what many have been advising me.my juno G display was gone and got the new display but not yet fixed.i must use UPS in order to prevent burning of the Display.

Please have in mind that there are two type of UPS. The regular one which switch over to battery when the mains are gone but your equipment are powered by mains when its available and the ONLINE UPS which always supply you from the batteries even when mains is available. The ONLINE UPS gives a stable power even if the mains are flucturating or is noizy.

I upgraded my firmware and LCD worked for 3-4 days without problem. I’m in India and the service centre here is not responding. Roland US agreed to replace the LCD but shipping from here to US may cost another Juno G!

Good article. Very good. One thing that was left out is the 5-6 machine screws on the second from the bottom row of screws do not hold the keyboard together. They are used to hold a metal bracket inside the keyboard used as a stop for the keys. You do not have to remove these screws to get inside the keyboard, but you have to remove the other 50…………….

Thanks for the tutorial….just finished installing my new screen. I purchased it from Roland US. $125.00 + about $6.00 shipping. Everything is up and running.

On a thread on another website someone mentioned to be sure to ask for revision ‘C’ to the screen, as that’s the latest and greatest block of screen. Don’t know of the veracity of that statement, though.

when i press the “arpeggiator” key it also triggers the “chord memory” key. unfortunately i got this keyboard like this… there are 3 keys like this (world / orch & up/dec) what do you think it is? I have gotten new confidence on how to fix this, and i think i will try it this weekend.. but i was hoping you had some insight on what could be wrong

I had a similar display problem. My Juno-G was already once fixed and the display was replaced, and after a year the new display broke again same way as before. I opened it and noticed that it has something to do with the two ribbon cables that are not getting contact in the display unit. I warmed the ribbons gently with a soldering iron from points where they are connected to the display’s component side board. This helped for now.

At least now it has worked for some time. I guess they make some mistake in manufacturing process when attaching those cables as so many similar cases have appeared.

I’ve done it in the same way, and used desoldering-wire between the strip and the soldering-tip. My temparature was about 310°C for best results. It’s done in aprox 30 minutes.

Thank you very much. This is not just a defect as I was informed by Roland. It is nothing short of a recall. They should replace the screens for free, pay shipping both ways. It’s hard to believe that they have not stood behind this problem. On top of that the customer has to replace the screen ! I am and will have to purchase the part ,and do the corrective maintenance. It will be the last thing I ever purchase from them. Korg blows them away in sound and in customer care and service and care for their consumers. They told me they were aware of the problem, and still sent them down the assembly line. That is a recipe for failure in my estimation. The customer is still always right ! Especially if you know damn well the screens are no good and you still sell them to the people that believe in your product – or rather now know you don’t give a damn what kind of cheap crap you sell them !!!

As others have said, “Thank You!” We’ve had this issue for the last 2 years and since we bought the Juno G second hand, Roland wouldn’t fix it. However, the part was a little cheaper and prompt service got it here quickly. Tackled it tonight with very little knowledge about circuit boards and ribbons but I do know how to unscrew things and cut wire clips so I simply and methodically followed the steps. Only panic part was when I took out the lcd I didn’t really watch the orientation and I had already removed it from the other board but it was almost self evident when it went back in. Took the breath, plugged it in and Voila! Chris – Spearfish, SD July 10, 2012

I found this site 2 years ago after my screen got really whacky.It sometimes showed up and sometime was a quarter of the left upper or right lower screen.for abit it was blank.The band Im in we have a world class scarey guitarist/tech head.His friend who does repairs said if any screen shows up its most likely a connector pin…I live and play full time in PHX< az. Last saturday the temp dropped and the screen, after turning it on and off came back perfect.His key repair guide said to open up the guts and check pin connectors for screen.Chris has given a great free guide to dissassebly..try it before u screen up…. 100$….

Well it’s fall 2012, I happened to be L,A when my Juno screen went wacko, so I drove to Roland headquarters in the City of Commerce, picked up a replacement and followed Keith’s instructions. Powered up and all looks good! Here’s a hoping ….

Thank you sir for posting this. I JUST finished replacing mine. It looks like it works okay. The LCD screen I received from Roland looks like it had been used before, but it is fine.. for now. It said “REV C” on it so hopefully there won’t be an issue. The customer support rep told me that I should have it serviced by an authorized service representative “because there is a certain way that the new screens should be installed and they have that information”. We’ll see if it holds up!

Firstly, to those that say their screen looks used, there is a protective plastic coating on the front that needs to be removed before installing (be careful of fingerprints though). This should be removed in the final step before flipping over the center panel board and re-assembling. CAREFULLY remove it from the corner of the front of the LCD and peel it away. Underneath is a shiny new screen. Also, there are sometimes marker marks on the ribbon cable. This is a QC mark from the factory that builds the LCDs.

Some of the problems are caused by the jumper board (LCD connector board) behind the LCD. Its the board that is approx 1×2″ and has only 2 white connectors on it. That should be removed and/or bypassed altogether, the new LCDs have a cable that is long enough to reach the connector on the mainboard. The original LCD had a short cable, the new ones do not. It is an unnecessary bunch of interconnect now due to the new long cable and a common source of poor connections leading to the assumption that the LCD has gone bad, but has not.

Also, when the new cable is attached to the mainboard, you need to be sure that there isnt a hard bend or tension on the connector on the mainboard or cable there. If you do this the FFC cable to separate from the blue backing and you will need another LCD , or worse, the connector on the mainboard will warp and you will need to have someone replace it that is very skilled with a soldering iron. A lot of LCDs go bad, but a lot of the repeat offenders are other issues causing the LCD to go bad.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to where the screws come from! They’re not all the same. There are machine screws, binding screws and tap-tite screws (for plastic). if you put the wrong ones in the wrong holes, you damage the threads and limit the number of times the unit can be taken apart and reassembled. This may not mean anything to you now, but when you try to sell it in a few years and it’s falling apart, or if you need service in the future and it cant be reassembled, you’ll be sorry. Tape em to a piece of paper if you have to with a pic showing their locations. Its a good practice to reassemble things correctly for longevity’s sake…and just for the sake of doing it right! DONT USE A DRILL/DRIVER to reinstall the screws. Only something low voltage that has a clutch, or manually. You can crack boards or blow out heads otherwise.

Take pictures of your steps, at least a before shot, so you know what its supposed to look like when you’re done. The more the better. Be aware of the movements and changes you are making. This isn’t hard to do, but just be smart, careful, and take notes as you go.

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Same here. I replaced my screen in 2011 and now it’s messed up again. I’m not a musician and just poke around on the keyboard from time to time. I haven’t turned the thing on more than 7 times in 2 years and now it’s hosed again. …..Not sure if the replacement display I got was rev “C” or not. I plan to take it apart again and inspect the ribbon cables. No plans to fork over another $100 or or so dollars for a new display.

I need some info please. The actual display on my Juno G is fine, but it appears that the backlight is dying. Backlight is darker on the middle and right side. Is the backlight an integral part of the display unit, or maybe accessible/replacable/fixable independent of the display unit itself. Hope I make sense and would really appreciate feedback.

Johan;The screen is,I believe self lit.I did not see any lighting array inside…..The Juno is not a good investment…..just save 10 dfollars a month and in 2 years buy a new screen …peace..

Thank you for supplementary great blog. Where else could i accumulate this compassionate of info written in such an incite full way? i have been looking for such information.

juno g lcd screen free sample

With the continuing popularity of computer-based digital audio workstations, I always welcome evidence that their hardware equivalents are not extinct. The latest example is Roland"s Juno-G, styled rather like a Juno 106 — but that"s where the similarities begin and end. If you recall, the previous Juno, the Juno-D, was related to the RS range of keyboards; the newest Juno is actually a cut-down Fantom X. Confused? Don"t be. Roland have decreed that the name Juno is interchangeable with "affordable", and as I referred to this previously in the Juno D review, let"s leave it at that and get down to business.

The Juno-G"s amber display casts a warm glow over proceedings; it may not be as clear or informative as the colour screen of the Fantom X, but it"s perfectly serviceable. On either side of the display are two small mirrors, perhaps to check your mascara or pupil dilation. Either way, it"s not a feature you encounter every day.

A quick glance shows there aren"t too many controls to play with; four multi-purpose knobs provide basic envelope and LFO tweaking, along with knobs devoted to filter cutoff and resonance. The multi-purpose knobs are intelligently employed within various edit menus, reducing the need to tab around and use the alpha dial, whilst five silver-topped sliders are reserved exclusively for audio functionality, one for each (stereo) track level plus one for input level.

If knobs and sliders are in short supply, there"s no shortage of dedicated buttons — for mode selection, edit functions, sequencer transport control and more. Many of these are somewhat wobbly, so I was glad that a different type (closer in style to those of Roland"s JD800) was chosen for category selection and menu-related soft keys; positioned beneath the display, these are far more substantial.

The keyboard felt slightly smaller than usual but when I popped out my tape measure, it proved to be, over the five-octave range, a mere centimeter shorter than those of my other synths. So perhaps I"m unusually sensitive — contrary to everything my wife says — or just plain picky. However, with a light action and no aftertouch, I can"t say this is a synth I"d reach for as my main controller — but at least there is a D-Beam and Roland"s standard stick bender to offer a degree of expression.

Further expression can be applied by utilising the rear-panel"s control pedal inputs. Also at the rear are the stereo outputs, plus two assignable outputs, a headphone socket, stereo audio inputs (the left input being selectable as a microphone input), and the MIDI In and Out ports. In line with the current "Juno" concept, there"s no MIDI Thru or digital I/O, and an external adaptor supplies power.

The card slot is similar to that of previous instruments such as the V-Synth. With this, the Juno-G can accept Smartmedia or Compact Flash cards when mounted into a suitable adaptor (it"s a standard PCMCIA slot, as found in laptops). If you require further connectivity, a USB port is provided for data transfer and MIDI over USB.

The Live Setting mode is something we encountered on the Fantom series, and it"s designed to make life easier on stage or even in the studio. Think of it as a means of gathing together patches, performances, songs or rhythm sets (drum kits) for instant selection regardless of the mode you"re currently in. As there are only six buttons under the display, the shift key is brought into use to access the full 12 entries that comprise a bank.

It"s your choice how to make use of Live Setting: it could be handy to store your songs as backing tracks for a live set, or simply as a quick way to retrieve particular patches and performances. There are 20 Live Setting banks in total.

Roland"s form of sample-based synthesis must be well known to SOS readers by now, so I won"t dwell too long on it here. A patch consists of up to four "tones", each of which has its own filter, envelopes, LFOs and waveform selection. The more tones you use, the more polyphony is consumed. Even before you add any samples of your own, there are 1267 waves in the 64MB of wave memory — which should be an ample starting point for creating your own sounds. If you need more, you can add one of Roland"s SRX series of expansion boards.

A good place to start sonic exploration is with the multitude of patches and performances. Actually, this could take days, as there are a total of 768 preset patches arranged in banks A-F, plus a further 256 GM2 patches, 45 rhythm sets (drum kits) and 64 preset performances. It isn"t all preset, though (thank goodness); there are 256 user patches, 36 user rhythm sets and 64 user performances.

Generally, the Juno-G sounds great and is brimming with solid examples of bread-and-butter sounds, plus a fair stab at most genres — exactly as you"d expect from a workstation. Roland may have cut costs elsewhere to produce this, their budget Fantom X, but the Juno"s sound engine delivers with no sign of compromise.

When you wish to make your own sounds, or tweak those supplied, patch editing can be accomplished on several levels. At the most basic, you just fiddle with the sound modification knobs. To go a little deeper enter Patch Edit, where you"ll find a selection of simplified menus. Finally, to access each and every parameter, a Pro Edit soft key is offered. Everything is arranged logically; my only niggles were the performance of the cutoff knob, which was a little steppy, and the resonance, which became a menacing digital howl at high levels.

For multitimbral use, turn to Performance Mode where up to 16 patches may be layered, split, or assigned to individual MIDI channels. Even with 128 notes of polyphony you can run out of voices, so Roland kindly provide voice reserve and priority modes to determine the notes that will be dropped if polyphony limits are exceeded.

A dedicated Part Mixer button brings up, within the limitations of the Juno"s screen, a representation of each multitimbral part"s level and pan, plus effects sends, output routing and so on. A small graphical box, its position adjustable with the cursor keys, encloses four parameters that can be controlled with the sound modify knobs.

The Juno-G is supplied with a mere 4MB of RAM, corresponding to just over 23 seconds of stereo recording. Memory is cheap these days, and to get the most out of this baby, I advise going the whole hog and popping in an additional 512MB DIMM. Do this and an exciting world of long samples or generous audio recording time (approximately 51 minutes, stereo) opens up.

Sample memory is shared between the sequencer"s audio tracks and imported samples, so you"ll have to decide how best to juggle it, plus the lack of multisampling means it"s not the ideal solution for instrumental-type samples. But with 2000 user sample locations and 7000 card locations, the Juno-G can be your safety deposity box of drum loops, voice samples, sound effects or even sliced-up chunks of ready-mixed tunes.

With no internal hard disk, audio resides either in the 16MB of flash RAM (which is separate to the sample RAM) or in a card placed in the card slot. As up to 1GB can be accessed via this slot, that is where I suspect the bulk of user audio and samples will be housed. Samples may be automatically loaded into RAM at boot-up time and the Juno remembers whether they are sourced from flash or from the card. Sadly, I didn"t have the memory expansion fitted so was unable to do extensive audio recording or to check how long it would take to boot at maximum capacity.

The onboard sequencer ably demonstrates Roland"s long experience in this field. It features the expected 16 tracks of MIDI plus the not-so-expected four stereo audio tracks. MIDI sequencing, whether in real or step time, is fast and intuitive, and with a resolution of 480ppqn and capacity of 400,000 notes, it should be able to cope with the majority of applications.

Despite an innocent exterior, the sequencer boasts several high-end features such as groove quantise, MIDI Time Code (MTC) and MIDI Machine Control (MMC). MTC and MMC are essential should you wish to synchronise with a computer workstation or one of Roland"s VS series of hard disk recorders. For ease of navigation, markers are included, assignable to any position in the song. You can also set a loop point and then loop a section of the song for as long as you need, switching it off when you"re ready to move on (or the audience insist on it).

After recording, there are numerous ways to edit your audio using onboard facilities such as Timestretch or Chop, the latter being a simple way to divide a sample into separate events. An "auto" function will even do it for you, based on tempo or peak volume levels. When extracting drum notes you"ll find yourself regularly turning to the Create Rhythm function, which maps the chopped results over a range of notes on the keyboard. It"s scarily easy to build a unique drum kit by plucking chunks from an audio loop — or even a snippet of speech; the choices are endless! And if you need more sophisticated sample editing, you can always export to your computer via the USB port.

Interestingly, you can alter the tempo of your song post-recording — even if audio tracks are present. The Juno-G does this by time-stretching the audio, although it has to be said that altering the tempo by more than a few bpm can produce something best described as "experimental", rather than being sonically transparent. Of course, nothing is for free, and using audio tracks eats into the 128 notes of polyphony — as does time-stretching.

Using the onboard mixer you can add effects to each track of your song, up to the limitation of three multi-effects, reverb and chorus. Audio tracks can be processed in exactly the same way.

It isn"t marketed as such, but the Juno-G has many of the attributes of a sampler. It can use recorded audio as a waveform source to be played back within a regular patch, processed by filters, effects and LFOs. The main weaknesses, when compared to traditional samplers, are in the lack of any multisample capability and its looping, which is rather basic. In fact there are just a couple of simple loop modes (forward and reverse) and no crossfade looping. And as with members of the Fantom series, the loop points of imported waves are ignored. Unlike the Fantom X and Fantom SR, the Juno-G cannot import from Roland"s own S700 series sample library.

In Patch Mode, you get one multi-effects processor plus reverb and chorus, whilst in Performance Mode there"s an additional two multi-effect processors added to the equation. Sure, this isn"t an effect for every part, but it isn"t bad — and is certainly a workable compromise at the price point.

There are 78 effect types to choose from and some are jolly interesting. I particularly relished the various time-stepped effects such as filters, ring modulator and pitch shifters. There are RSS effects too (Roland Sound Space 3D), a superb set of delays, composite effects such as overdrive with delay and many more. In Performance Mode, the three multi-effects are routable in practically any configuration and many effect parameters are available for MIDI control.

It"s not all workstation and play; inspired by the Fantom, the Juno-G offers a few nifty performance tools such as Chord Memory, the D-Beam, the arpeggiator and rhythm groups. Chord memory is a means of storing and retrieving 64 user and 64 preset chords; it has a "rolled chord" mode which can simulate, amongst other things, a strumming effect. With the roll function active, you control the speed by which you zip through the notes by how hard you hit a key.

The D-Beam is a single beam capable of being a Theremin-like solo synthesizer or acting as an assignable performance controller. The arpeggiator is versatile but never overly complex, and with 128 preset and 128 user arpeggiator patterns, you should not get bored with it any time soon.

My favourite performance tool deserves a little more explanation. Push the button marked Rhythm Pattern and those multi-purpose buttons beneath the display serve as triggers to kick off MIDI drum loops. It"s like having a mini drum machine thrown in! You start a loop by pressing its button, press another to select a new one and stop loop playback by pressing the same button again. During playback you can change the drum kit or select a new bank of six patterns from amongst 32 preset and 32 user rhythm groups.

Each of these patterns may be up to 32 steps in length and can feature up to 16 percussion voices at once. It"s easy to create your own, either by starting with one of the factory presets (most of which are delightfully uncluttered) or by starting from scratch using a traditional pattern-edit grid. Having made something you like, you can audition different kits until you find the one you want to associate with it, finally storing it for easy retrieval. With 256 preset patterns and space for up to 256 user patterns, this is a feature that should be filed under "very useful".

The Juno-G has two USB modes: MIDI and Storage. To enable the MIDI mode, the driver on the supplied CD must be installed; it then provides MIDI In and Out to your computer without need of an interface (the standard MIDI In port is disabled).

Please don"t make the mistake I did and try to set the USB mode via the System/USB menu. Athough it appears to work from there, in reality only MIDI mode switching actually does, not Storage mode. So always use the menu accessed via the dedicated USB button. The manual warns about switching modes without first performing elaborate safeguards; it also advises that you should not pull out the USB cable until you power off and that you should never shut down before deselecting USB Storage mode. I must confess I"d been doing exactly those things without noticeable problems before I ran across that section in the manual. Ignorance is, indeed, bliss.

Explore the CD further and you will discover editor and librarian applications developed especially for the Juno-G. The editor offers a clear, graphical view of all aspects of patch and performance editing and even basic sample tweaking. The Juno"s display does its job well enough, but if you insist on a full patch overview there"s no substitute for a computer screen. The program resembles that previously made available for the Fantom X and XR (reviewed in the August 2005 issue of SOS).

OK, I"ll come clean and admit I never elbowed my way to the front of the reviewers" queue pleading "me, me, me!" for this one. Yet, despite being another spin-off product, the Juno-G was actually a pleasant surprise, only yielding the full extent of its riches after careful exploration. In the weeks it"s been here, I"ve frequently turned to its effective sound set and built-in rhythm patterns — the latter a useful ideas generator when used in conjunction with the arpeggiator and chord memory functions.

Apart from its keyboard action, the Juno-G offers everything I"d personally look for in a workstation, and it"s practically a sampler too — lacking just a few vital extras (such as multisampling and crossfade looping) to get a tick in that box. Roland have chosen well: sufficient polyphony, a useable sequencer (special thumbs up for its audio tracks), sample import and USB connectivity, plus classy effects implementation and a few knobs and sliders to boot. Add a half GB DIMM and the wave expansion board of your choice to get a very powerful package at an attractive price.

Roland aren"t making such claims, but I"d call the Juno-G a synth, sequencer, audio recorder, drum machine and a sampler (near as dammit). With no superfluous features bolted on and nothing carelessly implemented, any corners cut are the ones you"d probably expect anyway.

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juno g lcd screen free sample

About the Workshop BookletsRoland’s JUNO synthesizers have been making history since the 1980s.They’ve always been affordable, easy to use, and sounded great onstageand in the studio. The JUNO-G carries on the family tradition in the mostmodern way, with 128-note polyphony and killer sounds derived fromRoland’s acclaimed Fantom-X synths—even more sounds are available whenyou install an optional SRX-series sound expansion board. The JUNO-G hasa user-friendly 16-track sequencer, 4-track audio recorder, and a full-onsampler that give you the tools you need to bring your songs to life. AUSB jack allows you to easily exchange data with—or edit JUNO-G soundsfrom—a personal computer. And it’s all tied together with a look and feelthat’s both familiar and intuitive.This JUNO-G Workshop Series booklet is intended as a companion to theJUNO-G Owner’s Manual. It requires JUNO-G Operating System v2.0 or higher.You can download the latest JUNO-G O.S. for free from www.RolandUS.com.About This BookletHot LinksEach Workshop booklet is meant to be read in order from beginningto end. However, if we mention an upcoming section—and you seethis arrow—you can click the arrow to jump there immediately.Things You Can Do with Your MIDI ConnectionIn this booklet, we’re going to assume you know how to operate yourcomputer. If you don’t, consult its documentation before proceeding.Edit and Create JUNO-G SoundsThe JUNO-G ships with Editor and Librarian software for Mac and PCthat makes the JUNO-G even more powerful. The Editor software allowsyou to edit factory sounds, or create your own, on your computer. TheLibrarian software helps you organize and store your JUNO-G sounds andperformances on your computer’s hard drive.The JUNO-G can exchange MIDI data with a Mac or PC via USB, letting youuse the JUNO-G as MIDI controller for a DAW and/or as a multitimbral soundmodule. It also allows you to create JUNO-G sounds on your computer. Thisbooklet explains how to get connected.Current settings......go to the JUNO-G.Understanding the Symbols in This BookletUSBUSB...are sent to the software.Throughout this booklet, you’ll come across information that deservesspecial attention—that’s why it’s labeled with one of the following symbols.Your edited settings...A note is something that adds information about the topic at hand.A tip offers suggestions for using the feature being discussed.Warnings contain important information that can help you avoidpossible damage to your equipment, your data, or yourself.The Editor and Librarian come with their own documentation, so we’rejust going to discuss their installation in this booklet.2

Use the JUNO-G with a DAWMIDI notes......where they play notes.USBYou can use a GM2 System On message contained in an SMF file toselect the JUNO-G’s General MIDI 2 sounds, or you can press theJUNO-G’s PERFORM button and select PRST 064 GM2 Template.Setting Up Your Computer for the JUNO-GUSB...are captured in the DAW.Notes go to JUNO-STAGE...Installing the JUNO-G Software on Your ComputerThe JUNO-G works with the following operating systems:• Windows XP • Windows Vista 32-bit Edition • Mac OS XIn this booklet we’ll describe the Windows XP, Vista, and Mac OS X installationof the JUNO-G’s USB MIDI driver, Editor and Librarian software.The JUNO-G makes an excellent MIDI controller for a DAW. By pluggingearbuds or headphones into your computer, you can use a DAW’s softsynths; plugging them into the JUNO-G lets you use JUNO-G sounds. In amore complex setup, you can listen to both through an audio interface.Play General MIDI2 SMFs from a ComputerIf you have aprogram on yourcomputer thatplays General MIDIor General MIDI2SMFs (“StandardMIDI Files”), youcan play themusing theJUNO-G’s built-inGM2 sounds.USBThe JUNO-G must be ready to boot up into USB MIDI mode in order toinstall its driver. See “Selecting the USB Operating Mode” on Page 167of the Owner’s Manual to learn how to set up the JUNO-G to do so.When you connect the JUNO-G to your computer via USB, you’lltypically get the best results using USB jacks on the back of a desktopcomputer or on the side of a laptop. We recommend not using a hub.The JUNO-G’s software is on the CD-ROM that came with it. If you’re using• Windows XP— you’ll find the driver in the Win2kXP folder at theCD-ROM’s root level. The Editor installer (which includes the Librariansoftware) can be found in the root level’s Installer folder.• Vista— you’ll find the driver Setup executable file and the Editor installer(which includes the Librarian software) in the Install folder at theCD-ROM’s root level.• Mac OS X— you’ll find the driver installer, and the Editor/Librarianinstaller in their folders at the root level of the CD-ROM.You can find the latest JUNO-G software on the Downloads tab at http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.php?ProductId=756.3

Windows XPInstalling the JUNO-G USB MIDI Driver1 Power up your PC with all USB cables disconnected except for yourkeyboard and mouse. If any applications are running, quit them.2 Double-click the Setup file in the XP Drivers folder, or the installeryou’ve downloaded and unzipped, to start the installer.4If you see the Software Installation window instead ofthe one shown above, click Continue Anyway. If you can’tcontinue, see “About Driver Signing Options” later in thisbooklet. (You can click this button to jump there now.)Click Next—the driver is installed and instructions appear telling youwhat to do next.3If XP asks if you want to run this file, click Run. If an “Install Programas Other User” dialog appears, quit the installer, and then log in as thesystem administrator before re-launching the Setup application.Click Next to display the installation start window:56We’ll take you through these instructions in this booklet, so you canclose this window, or drag it over to the side of the screen if you wantto keep it open.With the JUNO-G’s power turned off, plug one end of the includedUSB cable into its USB jack, and the other end into the USB jack youwant to use on your computer.Turn on the JUNO-G—after a few moments, the PC’s Found NewHardware Wizard window appears, as shown in the followingscreenshot.If, instead of seeing the Found New Hardware window, you’re asked ifyou want to connect to Windows Update, select No, not this time, andthen click Next to display the Found New Hardware window.4

About Driver Signing OptionsThe Driver Signing window lets you select whether Windows should blockthe installation of an unknown driver, warn you about it, or just install it.12In the Start menu, select Control Panel.If you’re in• Category View— click Performance and Maintenance, and thenclick System.• Classic View— double-click System.7Click the button to the left of “Install the software automatically(Recommended),” and then click Next to install the driver.When the driver’s installed, the wizard announces the completion ofthe installation process.If the “Software installation” window appears after you click Next,click Continue Anyway. If you can’t continue, see “About Driver SigningOptions” to the right of this page.8If the “System Settings Change” window appears, click Yes to restartWindows.Click Finish.Windows displays “Your new hardware is ready to use.”9 If the Driver Setup window’s still open, click its Close button.10 Restart your computer.3Click the Hardware tab, and then click Driver Signing.4 Set “What action do you want Windows to take?” to Ignore or Warn.5Click OK to close the Driver Signing window.Should you ever need to remove the JUNO-G driver from your system,its installer folder contains an uninstaller. You can hold onto this file,or re-download the driver folder later should you need it.Later in this booklet, we’ll provide some further informationon using the JUNO-G with a DAW. Click the button here tojump to this section now if you like.67Click OK to close the System Properties window.Return to the driver installation instructions earlier in this booklet.5

Installing the Editor/Librarian SoftwareYou can install both the JUNO-G Editor and Librarian software in a singleoperation. Here’s how to do this.6Highlight the Custom installation, and then click Next.12Double-click the JUNO-G Editor Setup executable file.The installer opens. (If XP asks if you want to run thisfile, click Run.)Choose your setup language and click Next.7Checkmark all of the files in the Select Features window—if they’renot already checked—and then click Next.If you want to install only one of the JUNO-G programs, make sure itsfiles are all that’s checked in this window.345Enter your name and decide whether to install the driver only for thecurrent user of your computer, or for all users, and then click Next.Read the License Agreement, and if you’d like to proceed with theinstallation, click Yes.In the Choose Destination Location window, you can select a locationon your hard drive for the JUNO-G software—if you don’t have aspecific reason to change it, leave the default location as it is—andthen click Next to display the Setup Type window.89VistaThe installer displays your installation selections and tells you it’s nowready to install the JUNO-G software. Click Next to proceed—the filesare installed.Click Finish to exit the installer.Installing the JUNO-G USB MIDI Driver1 Power up your PC with all USB cables disconnected except for yourkeyboard and mouse. If any applications are running, quit them.2 Double-click the Setup file in the Vista Drivers folder, or the installeryou’ve downloaded and unzipped, to start the installer.If Vista tells you a program needs your permission to continue, clickContinue.6

3The Driver Setup window appears:4Click Next to display the Driver Setup instructions window:We’ll take you through these instructions in this booklet, so you canclose this window.7 With the JUNO-G’s power turned off, plug one end of the includedUSB cable into its USB jack, and the other end into the USB jack youwant to use on your computer.8 Turn on the JUNO-G—after a few moments, “Installing device driversoftware” appears in the lower right corner of the screen.9 When the PC’s finished installing the driver, “JUNO Series Devicedriver software installed successfully” appears onscreen.10 Restart your computer.5Click Next.Later in this booklet, we’ll provide some further informationon using the JUNO-G with a DAW. Click the button here tojump to this section now if you like.Installing the Editor and Librarian SoftwareHere’s how to install the JUNO-G Editor and Librarian software.6If Windows Security asks if you’d like to install this device software—as shown above—click Install.1Double-click the JUNO-G Editor Setup executable file.The installer opens.If you plan to instal other Roland drivers in the future, you can checkAlways trust software from “Roland Coporation” to save time later.If Vista tells you a program needs your permission to continue or thatit doesn’t recognize the program, click Continue.The driver’s installed, and a window opens with instructions.2Choose English as your setup language and click OK.7

PianoMIDIChannel 1Part 1—PRA:001 JUNO-G Grand2Press F5 (PARTVIEW).BassMIDIChannel 2Part 2—USER:024 Comp’d BassDrumsDAW tracksMIDIChannel 10Part 10—PRST:01 StandardKit1JUNO-G performance partsThe performance’s parts are also set to respond to various MIDIProgram Change, Bank Select, and Control Change messages. Allof the parts are also set to default levels you can change with MIDImessages from the DAW.If your screen doesn’t look like this, press F1 (PART).3 Select the part for which you want to select a sound byhighlighting one of its parameters.4 Press the ENTER button to display the CATEGORY screen fromwhich you can select the sound you want the part to play.To learn about MIDI Program Change, Bank Select, and Control Changemessages, see our An Introduction to MIDI InFocus booklet. To learnhow to work with them in your DAW, see your DAW’s documentation.7You’re now set up.As you sequence tracks, there’s nothing you need to do on theJUNO-G other than play. Everything else takes place in the DAW.About Selecting JUNO-G Sounds for Use with a DAWNo matter how you decide to select JUNO-G sounds for use with a DAW,we recommend starting with PRST 002 Seq: Template.When you’re playing JUNO-G sounds from a DAW, there are three ways toselect the sounds in the JUNO-G performance you use.• You can create a performance with the desired sounds on theJUNO-G—Here’s how:1Press the PERFORM button to display the PERF PLAY screen.To learn about navigating the CATEGORY screen, see Page 5 of theJUNO-Geography Workshop booklet.5 Select the desired sound for the part and press ENTER to lock inyour choice.6 Repeat Steps 3-5 to select the performance’s other sounds.• You can build the performance you want using the JUNO-G Editor— onyour computer, and then send it to the JUNO-G’s memory.To preserve performances you create using either method, write theminto the JUNO-G’s memory. See Page 63 in the Owner’s Manual.The DAW tracks can select each part’s sound—• by sending MIDI BankSelect and Program Change messages to the JUNO-G on the part’s MIDIchannel.12

Configuring Your DAW for Use with the JUNO-GOnce you’ve installed the JUNO-G driver and made your USB connection,your software DAW can• receive MIDI data from the JUNO-G— This allows you to play the DAW’ssoft synths, and to sequence your playing onto DAW tracks.• use the JUNO-G as a destination for outgoing MIDI data— This allows theDAW to play the JUNO-G’s sounds from its tracks.While each DAW has its own way of doing things, the following generalprinciples always apply. (You can consult your software’s documentation fordetails.)Receiving JUNO-G MIDI Data in a DAWSending Data from DAW Tracks to the JUNO-GAll DAWs provide a method for directing sequenced MIDI data fromindividual MIDI tracks to the desired external devices—for example, theparts of a JUNO-G performance. Consult your DAW’s documentation to learnhow to direct the data on each of your DAW’s MIDI tracks to the desiredJUNO-G parts.The EndWe hope you’ve found this workshop helpful. Keep an eye out for newJUNO-G updates and support documents you can download for free atwww.RolandUS.com.To get your DAW to receive MIDI data from the JUNO-G, select theJUNO-G as a MIDI input within the DAW, or set the DAW to receive all MIDIdata coming into the computer. If your DAW can accept MIDI data on all MIDIchannels—often referred to as “omni” mode—enable this option.As we mentioned earlier, there’s seldom a need to match the DAW’s incomingMIDI channel to the JUNO-G’s transmit channel. However, if you need to dothis, here’s how to figure out and/or set the JUNO-G’s MIDI transmit—shownas “Tx” onscreen—channel.If• you’ve selected a performance on the JUNO-G so you can sequence usingmultiple JUNO-G sounds—each of the performance’s parts transmitson its same-numbered MIDI channel. From the PERFORM PLAY screen,press F5 (PARTVIEW), shown on Page 12, and then use the 6 and 5buttons to move from part to part. The JUNO-G will transmit MIDI dataon the currently selected part’s channel.• you haven’t selected a performance on the JUNO-G— you can set thesystem-wide Kbd Patch Rx/Tx Channel parameter to the desiredchannel. To get to the parameter, follow the instructions on Page 11 ofthis booklet to navigate to the MIDI General screen.13

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