juno g lcd screen factory

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This item is fully tested and in great working condition.  Beware buying these used.  It is a common problem that the original display of the Juno-G malfunctions and needs to be replaced with the new Roland factory display that requires the 2.01 firmware upgrade.  If you search around online you will see how common the original display goes out.  I just replaced the original display because it was scrolling in different quadrants and characters were starting to be scrambled.  I replaced it with a new Roland Factory Display and Updated the firmware to 2.01 (necessary for the new display to work).   The new display looks and functions great.  The contrast is super clean and there are no more problems.  It looks great!

This item is fully tested and in great working condition.All the buttons, knobs, keys and jacks are working.  It has some minor scratches and a very little scuff by the pitch bender.  The “Juno” and “Roland” writing on the rear of the unit has some very minor scratches. There is a very little scratch on the “Rec” writing on the front of the unit.  It does not come with any expansions.

It comes with a non OEM power supply that is rated to meet its power needs.   The power supply has a shorter cord and is a little loose when connected to the back of the keyboard.  There is nothing wrong with the jack on the keyboard, it is just that the power supply jack doesn’t fit it tightly.  It would work for a studio but in a live situation you might want to separately purchase a Roland PSB-1U orPSB-120(not included).

Great SoundsRoland’s Fantom-X series is a grand-slam hit around the globe. The Fantom’s high-quality sound engine is a key factor in its success. The JUNO-G shares the same processor as the Fantom-X, and thus delivers the finest sound quality on the market — including an 88-note multisampled grand piano, and a wide range of sounds that span from classical to cutting-edge. You can further expand your JUNO-G with one of Roland’s SRX expansion boards (expansion boards not included).Audio/MIDI Recorder OnboardFor songwriters and performers, the JUNO-G’s 16-part MIDI sequencer is a must. But the addition of four companion stereo audio tracks is a huge bonus, and an unexpected surprise for an instrument in this price range! Now players can lay down the perfect backing tracks plus vocals, live guitar parts, and the like. The JUNO-G’s dedicated front-panel transport controls and mixer make the recording experience all the more friendly.Inviting InterfaceFor an instrument packed with so many features, the JUNO-G offers unprecedented ease of use. The aforementioned mixer and transport controls are only part of the friendly “hands-on” work surface. It has clearly labeled buttons, six knobs to modify sounds, five sliders for the audio section, a data wheel, a D Beam, and a pitch/mod lever. In the center of it all is the largest backlit LCD of any synth in this price range.Computer FriendlyThe beauty of the JUNO-G is that it can be used to by itself create complete songs from start to finish, but for those who want to take it one step further and incorporate a computer into the setup, the JUNO-G can be linked to a PC or Mac via its USB port. All MIDI communications can be handled over USB, which can also be used to send and receive WAV/AIF files and patch data.

great write up on the repair! I try and do as many repairs myself as I can. Did you buy the LCD screen from Roland then? Do you know where to obtain LCD display screens? The screen on my Roland TD-20 is half blanking out and I would love to fix it myself. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you for the kind words. Yes, I bought the LCD screen from Roland Customer Support. Cost about 140 for the Juno-G. Took about 10 days to ship to me. There are a few third party websites that sell lcd display replacements. Try searching the google. If the TD-20 is similar to the Juno, then the replacement is definitely doable yourself. The ribbon cables made everything very easy.

Its pretty easy to replace parts and boards.just be carefull not to lose your way,write down each move and then work backward.make sure you have no static discharge,good luck!!!!!!!!

I appreciate the response but I have since found a smashed LCD with the chips I wanted to remove to try to fix the LCD I have. I haven’t tried yet – just wanted to see if it is the LCD itself or the driver chips on it that fail.

So much for replacing the LCD Display. New post coming. Don’t buy a Juno-G! The LCD display is crap. The new display I purchased went bad 4 months after replacing the other one that went bad.

Thank you! :-)Loving the Journeys you share here. :>One fuethrr request: would you please put in one of those ‘subscribe to comments’ plug-ins so that we readers could follow the conversational goodnesses? :-)I didn’t realize you’d replied to my comment until I came back just now for a different reason. :-)Have an Awesome!

Never had a D-50. Did have a RD-600 for 10 years when I used to play out. Thing was beast! Seriously, I’m really sad about the quality in the Juno-G. I can make music so fast on it, but I’m gonna get rid of it. I already know Roland products, so I want to stay in the Roland family and maybe get a Fantom, but I’m worried about the quality again.

Hi, the light in my display doesn´t turn on, i can see every thing but in the day light cause the orage light went gone, some one has repaired it?… can you tell me how, or i need to buy a display new?

Probably need to buy a new one. Before you take the keyboard to your local music store for repair, just call Roland support and describe the problem. If the problem is covered by warranty, they will fix it for free, but you will have to pay for shipping to them. They will also pay for shipping back to you.

Keith–question: given your update, and given yours and others having the same problem after swapping out the screen, would it make sense to just ship it to Roland/have an authorized Roland dealer repair it?

I think you should call them and describe the problem and ask them what they suggest. I’m unclear on which parts are under warranty, so I’m not sure if they will charge you or not. They told me to ship it to them, and if it was a problem with a part under warranty, they’d fix it and ship it back for free. Seems fair enough.

ASR-10 was the sampler I always wanted as a kid! I had a SQ1 I bough in 1990, my first workstation. I was in high school and college, so couldn’t afford to buy a ASR. The SQ1 was fun, but underpowered. I would have to output the audio to cakewalk and cut out latency delays that would occur when the sequencer was stepping through different sequences.

I’ve gone away from computer based recording last couple years. I spent too much time trying to get my computer hardware and software and interface and control surface, etc…. working. I like just switching on my keyboard and getting to work, even if the screens are a little small. I’m hoping Roland comes out with a workstation with a big fat touchscreen like the korgs have.

LCD diplay on my daughter’s 3 year old Roland E50 needs replaced. Roland said they have to ship from Japan – none in stock. Will take 4-6 weeks and cost approx $480. Any suggestions?

WOW!!! $480??? Sheesh… I know this an old post, but people still come across this so anyway, for that price you might as well just buy her a whole nother,(<—not even a real word lol), keyboard…a used GW-8 maybe…I am going to be purchasing a JUNO G within the next few hours and am glad I found this because the guy at the store said "Uh yeah dude, the screen is done" so I said "that"s fine, I"ll just buy a replacement and install it myself". now all I am trying to do is get them to lower the price just a bit to help offset the cost of the screen. The Juno G would fit right into my tiny setup since. An MPC 2000 and my mixer/recorder. the Akai MPC 2000"s are notorious for the bad screens. They will share this ironically common trait.

Hi Keith! I’ve got the same problem with my Juno-G LCD! Could you please email me how can i contact Roland support team? I live in Riga, Latvia. I’ve found their phone number only. But for me it would be better to write to them, cause my english is not so pretty to speak about the problem:) Thanks in advance!

I tried approaching ‘fortress’ Roland but it was a total brick wall – they don’t seem to be accepting any liability for Juno-G screens – which makes them pure bastards in my book!

I was concerned about removing ribbon cables and tried to do the whole thing without removing any – but this became impossible when I got to the central board. However I then realised from looking at the screens ribbon, that you simply pull the plastic ribbon from the plastic housing !!! I had tried pulling the whole housing off from the previous ribbons, and gave up because they wouldn’t come loose – I had no idea that ribbon cables attach this simply; I could easily have broken housings – call me a dummy, but I feel others may also not realise this.

Also you did not mention the mystery metal bar that falls out when you remove the case, took me a while to figure out where it went back, but quite simply, there is no need to remove the 5 bottom screws in the base (opposite the keys). Mine had double washers on them. These simply hold the metal bar in place, and can stay as part of the back casing.

I’ve had years of experience repairing PC’s but this was a slightly different ball game, a little nerve racking, especialy when it came to switch on time lol, but I would now be happy doing it again – just go real slow and careful, especialy when cutting the 2 cable ties that get in the way.

I used my camera to take photos when bits got tricky, so I could reassemble properly, this worked for me when it came to replacing the middle metal bracket to the central board – I had put it in the wrong place and it was interfering with the main ribbon cable running along the bottom half!

Sorry, me again – as a side note, the serial stamps on the back of my new screen had ‘revision C’ written on them – I hope this means it’s the revised non-breaking version, as my original screen did not have this marking.

Power fluctuation is the major cause of burning the Display.thats what many have been advising me.my juno G display was gone and got the new display but not yet fixed.i must use UPS in order to prevent burning of the Display.

Please have in mind that there are two type of UPS. The regular one which switch over to battery when the mains are gone but your equipment are powered by mains when its available and the ONLINE UPS which always supply you from the batteries even when mains is available. The ONLINE UPS gives a stable power even if the mains are flucturating or is noizy.

I upgraded my firmware and LCD worked for 3-4 days without problem. I’m in India and the service centre here is not responding. Roland US agreed to replace the LCD but shipping from here to US may cost another Juno G!

Good article. Very good. One thing that was left out is the 5-6 machine screws on the second from the bottom row of screws do not hold the keyboard together. They are used to hold a metal bracket inside the keyboard used as a stop for the keys. You do not have to remove these screws to get inside the keyboard, but you have to remove the other 50…………….

Thanks for the tutorial….just finished installing my new screen. I purchased it from Roland US. $125.00 + about $6.00 shipping. Everything is up and running.

On a thread on another website someone mentioned to be sure to ask for revision ‘C’ to the screen, as that’s the latest and greatest block of screen. Don’t know of the veracity of that statement, though.

when i press the “arpeggiator” key it also triggers the “chord memory” key. unfortunately i got this keyboard like this… there are 3 keys like this (world / orch & up/dec) what do you think it is? I have gotten new confidence on how to fix this, and i think i will try it this weekend.. but i was hoping you had some insight on what could be wrong

I had a similar display problem. My Juno-G was already once fixed and the display was replaced, and after a year the new display broke again same way as before. I opened it and noticed that it has something to do with the two ribbon cables that are not getting contact in the display unit. I warmed the ribbons gently with a soldering iron from points where they are connected to the display’s component side board. This helped for now.

At least now it has worked for some time. I guess they make some mistake in manufacturing process when attaching those cables as so many similar cases have appeared.

I’ve done it in the same way, and used desoldering-wire between the strip and the soldering-tip. My temparature was about 310°C for best results. It’s done in aprox 30 minutes.

Thank you very much. This is not just a defect as I was informed by Roland. It is nothing short of a recall. They should replace the screens for free, pay shipping both ways. It’s hard to believe that they have not stood behind this problem. On top of that the customer has to replace the screen ! I am and will have to purchase the part ,and do the corrective maintenance. It will be the last thing I ever purchase from them. Korg blows them away in sound and in customer care and service and care for their consumers. They told me they were aware of the problem, and still sent them down the assembly line. That is a recipe for failure in my estimation. The customer is still always right ! Especially if you know damn well the screens are no good and you still sell them to the people that believe in your product – or rather now know you don’t give a damn what kind of cheap crap you sell them !!!

As others have said, “Thank You!” We’ve had this issue for the last 2 years and since we bought the Juno G second hand, Roland wouldn’t fix it. However, the part was a little cheaper and prompt service got it here quickly. Tackled it tonight with very little knowledge about circuit boards and ribbons but I do know how to unscrew things and cut wire clips so I simply and methodically followed the steps. Only panic part was when I took out the lcd I didn’t really watch the orientation and I had already removed it from the other board but it was almost self evident when it went back in. Took the breath, plugged it in and Voila! Chris – Spearfish, SD July 10, 2012

I found this site 2 years ago after my screen got really whacky.It sometimes showed up and sometime was a quarter of the left upper or right lower screen.for abit it was blank.The band Im in we have a world class scarey guitarist/tech head.His friend who does repairs said if any screen shows up its most likely a connector pin…I live and play full time in PHX< az. Last saturday the temp dropped and the screen, after turning it on and off came back perfect.His key repair guide said to open up the guts and check pin connectors for screen.Chris has given a great free guide to dissassebly..try it before u screen up…. 100$….

Well it’s fall 2012, I happened to be L,A when my Juno screen went wacko, so I drove to Roland headquarters in the City of Commerce, picked up a replacement and followed Keith’s instructions. Powered up and all looks good! Here’s a hoping ….

Thank you sir for posting this. I JUST finished replacing mine. It looks like it works okay. The LCD screen I received from Roland looks like it had been used before, but it is fine.. for now. It said “REV C” on it so hopefully there won’t be an issue. The customer support rep told me that I should have it serviced by an authorized service representative “because there is a certain way that the new screens should be installed and they have that information”. We’ll see if it holds up!

Firstly, to those that say their screen looks used, there is a protective plastic coating on the front that needs to be removed before installing (be careful of fingerprints though). This should be removed in the final step before flipping over the center panel board and re-assembling. CAREFULLY remove it from the corner of the front of the LCD and peel it away. Underneath is a shiny new screen. Also, there are sometimes marker marks on the ribbon cable. This is a QC mark from the factory that builds the LCDs.

Some of the problems are caused by the jumper board (LCD connector board) behind the LCD. Its the board that is approx 1×2″ and has only 2 white connectors on it. That should be removed and/or bypassed altogether, the new LCDs have a cable that is long enough to reach the connector on the mainboard. The original LCD had a short cable, the new ones do not. It is an unnecessary bunch of interconnect now due to the new long cable and a common source of poor connections leading to the assumption that the LCD has gone bad, but has not.

Also, when the new cable is attached to the mainboard, you need to be sure that there isnt a hard bend or tension on the connector on the mainboard or cable there. If you do this the FFC cable to separate from the blue backing and you will need another LCD , or worse, the connector on the mainboard will warp and you will need to have someone replace it that is very skilled with a soldering iron. A lot of LCDs go bad, but a lot of the repeat offenders are other issues causing the LCD to go bad.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to where the screws come from! They’re not all the same. There are machine screws, binding screws and tap-tite screws (for plastic). if you put the wrong ones in the wrong holes, you damage the threads and limit the number of times the unit can be taken apart and reassembled. This may not mean anything to you now, but when you try to sell it in a few years and it’s falling apart, or if you need service in the future and it cant be reassembled, you’ll be sorry. Tape em to a piece of paper if you have to with a pic showing their locations. Its a good practice to reassemble things correctly for longevity’s sake…and just for the sake of doing it right! DONT USE A DRILL/DRIVER to reinstall the screws. Only something low voltage that has a clutch, or manually. You can crack boards or blow out heads otherwise.

Take pictures of your steps, at least a before shot, so you know what its supposed to look like when you’re done. The more the better. Be aware of the movements and changes you are making. This isn’t hard to do, but just be smart, careful, and take notes as you go.

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Same here. I replaced my screen in 2011 and now it’s messed up again. I’m not a musician and just poke around on the keyboard from time to time. I haven’t turned the thing on more than 7 times in 2 years and now it’s hosed again. …..Not sure if the replacement display I got was rev “C” or not. I plan to take it apart again and inspect the ribbon cables. No plans to fork over another $100 or or so dollars for a new display.

I need some info please. The actual display on my Juno G is fine, but it appears that the backlight is dying. Backlight is darker on the middle and right side. Is the backlight an integral part of the display unit, or maybe accessible/replacable/fixable independent of the display unit itself. Hope I make sense and would really appreciate feedback.

Johan;The screen is,I believe self lit.I did not see any lighting array inside…..The Juno is not a good investment…..just save 10 dfollars a month and in 2 years buy a new screen …peace..

Thank you for supplementary great blog. Where else could i accumulate this compassionate of info written in such an incite full way? i have been looking for such information.

Any earlier version, and the keyboard *may* have the original version of the display (although why someone would install the fixed version of the display and then not install firmware 2.01 I don’t know).

If you have or buy a Juno G with the original display part, you now have no pathway to get your keyboard to acceptable reliability as the redesigned display part is sold out.

If I could find a source of the redesigned displays, I’d have no issues fitting it (i did a degree that included Electronic Engineering modules so I’ve fixes a few gadgets over the years), and could resurrect one of those “beer money” Juno Gs.

I’m trying to find out what the manufacturing defect that makes these LCDs’ fail frequently. I’m trying to repair the original display because replacement screens are no longer available. With out the display the synth is pretty much useless other than controlling it with a MIDI controller keyboard.