lcd panel connectors dropped manufacturer

Hello, in the process of replacing the digital touch panel and screen, The video cable was pinched in the hinge and burned out. I have a replacement cable. In looking at the mother board connector, I can"t tell if the connector slides into place or if you just lift up on it and snap it back down. any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

Accidental Damage is any damage due to an unintentional act that is not the direct result of a manufacturing defect or failure, and is therefore not covered under the standard warranty of the LCD-Monitor. Such damage is most often the result of a drop or an impact to the LCD screen or any other part of the product which may render the device.

For example: for Dell U2415 monitor the factory installed display panel is 24.0" LM240WUA-SSA1 manufactured by LG Display, which supports 1920(RGB)×1200 (WUXGA) display and has WLED backlight incorporated (no LED driver is present in the panel). The signal interface is LVDS (2 ch, 8-bit), a single 30-pins connector. There are other matching panels made by LG, Samsung, AUO and possibly others (abundantly available from 3rd party resellers), but the most important is that the mainboard LVDS connector signals mapping do match the LVDS panel specifications - as found in the panel datasheet.

buy a used display panel, or a used monitor with similar size and resolution (checking first the monitor model specifications / resolution / backlight type / panel make, model, datasheet).

The replacement job will require disassembly, and one should carefully observe the steps in the video tutorials other users have created and posted on Internet. Or even better, leave it to a licensed repairer or somebody who has proven practical experience and knows how to avoid risk of electrical shock, ESD damage to the electronic components or the display panel - and can offer warranty for their work. Pay extra care with the cables connecting the mainboard to the display (LVDS, LED backlight and menu button board) as they can be easily damaged when removing the mainboard.

However, if the digitizer or LCD is also damaged during a fall, that screen no longer carries value because it cannot be refurbished. Repair shops cannot sell broken LCDs to refurbishing companies; therefore, they cannot offset the cost of an LCD repair. That is why repair stores often charge a little extra if there is damage to the LCD or digitizer, to make up for that loss. Repair stores that don’t have an additional charge for an LCD repair typically inflate their glass repair price to make up for the loss from damaged LCDs. If they have one price, that means everyone is paying more to cover the cost of customers who have damaged LCDs and customers who only have cracked glass. This is why TCR separates the price of glass and LCD repairs for you! If you only have cracked glass, you only have to worry about paying to replace the cracked glass.

If your phone or tablet’s glass is shattered there will be cracks or chips on the screen itself. If it is just the glass that is damaged, the device may still function and you may be able to use it normally. If this is the case, it is likely that only the glass needs to be replaced. To prevent further damage to your device it is best to get it repaired quickly. For example, if liquids seep through the cracks it could cause permanent damage to the LCD.

Many people may continue to use their touchscreen with shattered glass and delay fixing the glass on their devices; however, if the touchscreen isn’t responsive, it could be a sign of more significant damage to the device’s digitizer which is integrated with the LCD screen.

A pixelated screen can indicate LCD damage. This would look like a patch of multicolored dots, a line or lines of discoloration, or a screen with rainbow colors. For many people, these colors are an easy way to know that their LCD is broken and that they should get it repaired.

Dropping your phone isn’t the only reason you’ll end up with a pixelated screen. Over time, your screen’s LCD may break down through regular use. This happens to other devices aside from your smartphone or tablet. Pixelation can happen to TVs and computers, too. People typically decide to buy a new device when this happens. Fortunately, with an LCD repair, you can fix the device without needing to replace it.

A black screen or black spots on your smartphone or tablet is an indication of a damaged LCD. Often with a bad LCD, a phone may still turn on and make noises, but there is no clear picture. This does not necessarily mean any other part of the phone is damaged and a simple screen replacement will get it functioning again. Sometimes it can mean a battery or other internal component is damaged. It is best to have a highly qualified phone repair technician diagnose what is wrong so the appropriate repair can be made.

Fortunately, your mobile device is fixable whether you cracked the glass or damaged the LCD. Stop by or call TCR: Triangle Cellular Repair at (919) 263-2699 for a free diagnostic and quick, affordable cell phone repair in Chapel Hill and surrounding areas. We’re always happy to help!

Monochrome character, graphic and static displays require different input voltages. All the different LCD voltage symbols can be confusing, but believe it or not, there is a system to the madness.

This LCD voltage terminology originated from the terminals of each type of transistor and their common connections in logic circuits. In other words, VCC is often applied to BJT (Bipolar Junction Transistor) collectors, VEE to BJT emitters, VDD to FET (Field-Effect Transistor) drains and VSS to FET sources. Most CMOS (Complementary metal–oxide–semiconductor) IC data sheets now use VCC and GND to designate the positive and negative supply pins.

Pin three (3) is Vo and is the difference in voltage between VDD and VSS. This LCD voltage is adjusted to provide the sharpest contrast. The adjustment can be accomplished through a fixed resistor or a variable potentiometer. Many products have firmware that monitor the temperature and automatically adjust the contrast voltage.

In a Liquid Crystal Display (LCD), V0 is used to vary the screen brightness or contrast. Contrast, simply put is the ratio of the light areas to the dark areas in a LCD. This is usually done in a production setting with values which are optimized for most users. Temperature can have an undesirable effect on the display brightness and for this reason a varying resister or potentiometer is used to accommodate the desires of the user.

Below is a data sheet of a 16x2 Character LCD module that shows various recommended driving voltages. The LCD voltage can range from MIN (minimum) to TYP (Typical) to Max (maximum).

If the supplied LCD voltage drops too low, the display is ‘under-driven’ and will produce segments that are ‘grey’. The lower the LCD voltage falls below the acceptable threshold, the lower the contrast will be.

If the LCD is over-driven, you may see ghosting. This is where segments that should not be ‘on’ are gray. They are not as dark as the segments that should be on, but they can be seen and may cause confusion for the end user.

There are times when a customer needs to replace a display that has been discontinued or EOL (End-Of -Life) by their previous LCD supplier. The previous LCD’s pin-outs may be different than Focus’ standard, off-the-shelf display. This is not a large problem to overcome.

The third option is to pull power from pins one and two. This is the same location from which the LCD is pulling its power. Focus does not recommend this option and can modify the PCB for the customer to connect the backlight from a different location.

Many LCD Modules will require more than one internal voltage/current. This may make it necessary for the customer to supply the needed inputs. They may need to supply 3V, 5V, 9V, -12V etc.

The solution for this is to integrate a charge pump (or booster circuit) into the LCD circuitry. This solution works in most applications, but if the product will be operating in an intrinsic environment, care must be taken with layout of the circuit board.

Intrinsically-safe LCDs are Liquid Crystal Displays that are designed to operate in conditions where an arc or spark can cause an explosion. In these cases, charge pumps cannot be employed. In fact, the total capacitive value of the display needs to be kept to a minimum.

Focus Display Solutions does not build a display that is labeled ‘Intrinsically safe’ but we do design the LCD to meet the requirements of the engineer. In meeting the design engineer’s requirements, the display may need to contain two or three independent inputs. Focus can redesign the PCB and lay out the traces to allow for these additional inputs.

Every LCD screen eventually fails, usually due to the backlight behind the screens. That is why we have a backlight solution for every LCD screen on the market. Plazmo currently has the single largest global stock of drop-in CCFL and LED backlight assemblies.

Each of our assemblies comes complete with a pre-wired harness, OEM connector plug, silicone end caps and an optional metal rail. Nearly every LCD screen has a unique model design and we have developed the molds and manufacturing specifically to fit more than 200,000 LCD screen models in use today.

Plazmo also has robust manufacturing capabilities and specializes in perfectly replicating OEM backlight assemblies. Using our LED and CCFL backlight assemblies, we pass on savings to our customers while helping keep their LCD screens running smoothly.

Environment represents the Environment object, which contains apps, flows, and connectors. The following information is available for each environment:

CoE Connection Reference represents the linking table for the many-to-many relationships among connectors (PowerApps Connector) and cloud flows (Flows) or apps (PowerApps App).

This flow gets custom connector information by using Get Custom Connectors as Admin, and stores information such as the name, endpoint, and created by/on.

Ever had your TV showing nothing but a black screen even if the audio was working? Unfortunately, that’s a common issue with low/middle-end LCD/LED TVs these days… Even more frustrating, this issue often comes from a rather tiny and cheap component that can be easily replaced. Most common issues are:

That implies disassembling the TV to access the backlight which is between the LCD screen in the front and the boards in the rear. In my case, with a Samsung F5000, I had to process as follows:

First we have to remove the back housing to reveal the boards (from left to right: main board, T-CON, power supply) and disconnect the LCD panel from the T-CON board.

Note: Older TVs have neon tubes for backlight, which is thicker and less exposed to this kind of failure. LED backlight is the most common thing these days, but do not mistake an LED TV with an OLED TV. The first one is a classic LCD panel with a LED backlight, whereas the second is an OLED panel that doesn’t need any backlight as it is integrated in each pixels (making the spare parts much more expensive by the way).

A while back I was sitting around and wondering what to do with my dead laptop. I knew the mother board was fried but everything else was still in working condition. As a result, I decided to make an external monitor from my dead laptop and proceeded to do the research to find out if this was possible. Below is what I discovered. Unfortunately, there was no way to use the motherboard"s VGA connector. The VGA connector on a laptop is used to connect to an external monitor. In any case the VGA connector is output only and wouldn"t work for an external screen. As a result, I found that I needed to buy a controller board for the LCD screen, to make it work as an external monitor. This was the main cost but was still less than half the cost of buying an external monitor.

Step Two. To Remove the LCD screen from the laptop, you will need to remove the screws. There are rubber pads on the front of the LCD screen to protect it when the laptop lid is closed. Behind the rubber pads are the screws. Find and remove all the screws holding the front plastic frame on the laptop lid. Keep track of the pads and screws as you will need them to reassemble everything.

Step Three. Remove the plastic frame from the LCD screen. Here is where you need to be careful. The screws are not the only thing holding the plastic frame on the LCD screen! The plastic frame is snapped into place. Carefully pry loose the frame from the LCD screen. Pry it loose gently. Try to keep it as close as possible to the LCD panel while you are prying it loose because you may also find that you need to slide it to the left or right to completely remove it from the laptop. There is a small protrusion of the plastic frame where the hinge is. Because of this protrusion you need to slide the frame, in this case, to the right, to detach it from the laptop.

Step Four. Locate and remove the screws holding the LCD panel to the laptop. These are located on the bottom. The screws are attached to a small metal hinge. this is the component that is attached to the keyboard frame.

Next you will need to remove the LCD screen. Note that there is a cable attached. This is the LVDS cable. It is best to take apart the rest of the laptop and unplug it from the keyboard. However, the cable can be cut at the bottom. Take care not to cut the two wires going into the inverter (that"s the slim circuit board at the bottom.

Once the LCD panel is removed, you can remove the LVDS cable and unplug the inverter at the bottom. Unplug the inverter from both ends. Do not cut it. The LVDS cable is taped to the back of the LCD screen at the top. It is the flat cable running up the back. Remove the tape and slid the cable down. Since you need to buy an LCD controller board, you will no longer need the LVDS cable the laptop came with or the inverter. At this point you should just have an LCD screen with a pair of wires coming out of it.

Keep track of the plastic front frame and the plastic backing. You will need them to resemble the LCD screen. On the other hand, you have different fingers, just kidding. On the other hand, you can buy a picture frame and put the LCD screen in the picture frame.

Here is a picture of the LVDS cable and the inverter detached from the LCD screen. Since we will be buying an LCD control board these cables will not be needed again.

Next, once you have removed the LCD panel. Flip it over and look for a model number on the back. You will need this model number to order the correct LCD controller board. I went to E-Bay and found one for $42.00. I bought the LCD controller board and then received an email from the seller requesting the model number of the LCD screen and manufacturer. This is because each controller board is flashed, (programed to run a specific LCD) I gave him my model number, LP171WX2 A4K1 and told him it was made by LG Phillips. Since the board was coming from China, I received my order about 2 weeks later. Due note to buy one with a power cord! The LCD controller board has the VGA input connection which allows you to connect it to another computer and use it as a second monitor or as a back up in the event the one on your working computer goes out.

The LCD controller board is real easy to connect. It comes with all the required cables, except a VGA cable which you will need, in order to connect your LCD to another computer. You can buy a VGA cable from Best Buy or a computer parts store.

The LCD control Bard comes with all the cables except the VGA cable which you will have to buy. Once you have received your kit, proceed to connect it to the LCD screen. Plug the LVDS cable into the LCD panel where you removed the original from. The two wires at the bottom of the LCD screen that were connected to the inverter need to be unplugged from the old inverter and plugged into the new inverter below. Then, plug the power in. Make sure that the LCD control board is not sitting on anything conductive, like metal or it will short and fry. Next connect the VGA cable to the LCD control board and plug the other end of the VGA cable to another computer. Make sure the computer is on before you plug in the VGA cable. At this point you should have the same image that is on the computer you plugged the VGA cable into, on the LCD panel.

Next, I attached a 4 inch section of two by four on the outside back of the laptop lid. I needed this in order to attach my stand to the LCD screen. I used 5 screws and screwed them in place from the inside. I did splice and extend the cables going from the LCD controller to the inverter it came with just to have a little more room.

Originally, I built a nice wooden stand for my LCD panel but was not satisfied with it. So, I took a broken florescent desk lamp and dremeled off the section holding the florescent tubes, leaving enough metal to screw on to the two by four on the laptop lid. Before attaching the stand, I drilled four holes in the metal to make it easier to screw it on the two by four.

Next you will need to attach the LCD controller to the laptop lid. To do this, screw in a few sections of wood from the inside of the lid. Then on the outside of the lid attach the LCD control board. Place the wood in an area where the control board can reach.

Next you will need to find all those screws you have been saving and reassemble the LCD screen. I also added some surgical tubing to the top springs for added strength.

By the way a store bought swing arm half the size of this one, I found, cost around $400.00. If you choose to use a swing arm like this one, go with the one that has a magnifier on it and dremel off the magnifier leaving enough metal to attach to your LCD lid. You need one of this caliber to hold the LCD screen. Swing arms with the light attached are not strong enough.

Since I was asked about the web cam, I though Should add it to the instructable. There is a nice instructable here at this site showing how to convert a web cam from an LCD screen: http://rntmns.com/2011/02/rebirth-of-a-webcam/

Actually, you can do One better. You can salvage the RAM, the Wireless card, the Batteries, the charger, the hard drive, the DVD disk player and sell them to people that need them on E-bay and Still keep the LCD screen for yourself.

I checked ebay for the LCD control Board and all I did was punch in " LCD control Board for a LP154W01(A3)" , That"s my model number. You, of course, use your"s. ebay came up with the correct one for $25.00 and it has all the imputs you could want. This is good today, 2/11/19. Have fun folks!

i have a similar lcd panel to yours. infact 3 of them! they"re so easy to work with and doesn"t need a backlight controller LP154WH4 TLA1 except the lvds cable sold separately. I"ve build one and runs on

Nicely done and very informative!! However unfortunately, by the time you add the cost of the LCD Controller card, various parts and time you could have bought a new inexpensive monitor.

it really depends on what kind of display your laptop came with. I recently had a laptop that featured a 4k OLED screen and If I add the price up of the controller kit and materials (depending how you are going to make the stand) it would actually in my case be cheaper to make that an external monitor because, quite frankly 4k is pretty expensive and I don"t want to degrade to a lower resolution. in said laptop the motherboard died so I just scavenged everything including the LCD which I have just lying on my desk. so I might even consider trying this.0

Apple Inc. sold a variety of LCD and CRT computer displays in the past. Apple paused production of their own standalone displays in 2016 and partnered with LG to design displays for Macs.Pro Display XDR was introduced, however it was expensive and targeted for professionals. Nearly three years later, in March 2022, the Studio Display was launched as a consumer-targeted counterpart to the professional monitor. These two are currently the only Apple-branded displays available.

The Macintosh Color Classic introduced a 10″ color Trinitron display to the Classic compact Macintosh, with a slightly enhanced resolution of 512×384 (560×384 to accommodate the Apple IIe Card) like the standalone 12″ color display. Apple continued the all-in-one series with the larger 14″ Macintosh LC 500 series, featuring a 14″, 640×480 Trinitron CRT until the LC 580 in 1995, which heralded the switch to shadow mask CRTs for the remainder of Apple"s all-in-one computers until the switch to LCDs in 2002. The last Macintosh to include an integrated CRT was the eMac, which boosted the display area to 17″ with support up to 1280×960 resolution. It used a 4th generation flat-screen CRT and was discontinued in 2006.

The fourth generation of displays were introduced simultaneously with the Blue & White Power Macintosh G3 in 1999, which included the translucent plastics of the iMac (initially white and blue "blueberry", then white and grey "graphite" upon the introduction of the Power Mac G4). The displays were also designed with same translucent look. The Apple Studio Display series of CRT displays were available in a 17″ Diamondtron and a 21″ Trinitron CRT, both driven by an LG-Manufactured chassis. The 17″ displays were notorious for faulty flybacks and failing in a manner that could destroy the monitor and catch fire. It"s also reported that these monitors can destroy GPU"s, and sometimes the entire computer. The last Apple external CRT display was introduced in 2000 along with the Power Mac G4 Cube. Both it and the new LCD Studio Displays featured clear plastics to match the Cube, and the new Apple Display Connector, which provided power, USB, and video signals to the display through a single cable. It was available only in a 17″ flat screen Diamondtron CRT. It was discontinued the following year.

The history of Apple LCDs started in 1984 when the Apple Flat Panel Display was introduced for the Apple IIc computer, principally to enhance the IIc"s portability (see Apple IIc Portability enhancements). This monochrome display was capable of 80 columns by 24 lines, as well as double hi-res graphics, but had an odd aspect ratio (making images look vertically squished) and required a very strong external light source, such as a desk lamp or direct sunlight to be used. Even then it had a very poor contrast overall and was quite expensive (US$600), contributing to its poor sales and consequently it dropping from the market not long after its introduction. An estimated 10,000 IIc LCD displays were produced.

The next attempt at a flat panel was with the Macintosh Portable. More of a "luggable" than a laptop, it contained a high-resolution, active-matrix, 1-bit black & white, 9.8″ LCD with 640×400 resolution. Like the IIc Flat Panel, it was not backlit and required a bright light source to be used. A second generation model employed a backlit LCD. The PowerBook and MacBook series would continue to use LCD displays, following an industry-wide evolution from black-and-white to grayscale to color and ranging from 9″ to 17″. Two primary technologies were used, active matrix (higher quality and more expensive) and passive matrix displays (lower quality and cheaper). By 1998 all laptops would use active-matrix color LCDs, though the Newton products and eMate portables would continue to use black and white LCDs. Apple"s current MacBook portable displays include LED backlighting and support either 2560×1600 or 2880×1800 pixel resolutions depending on screen size. The iPod series used black-and-white or color LCDs, the iPhone line uses LCD and OLED displays, and the Apple Watch uses OLED.

In 1997, Apple released the Twentieth Anniversary Macintosh (TAM), its first all-in-one desktop with an LCD display. Drawing heavily from PowerBook technology, the TAM featured a 12.1″ active matrix LCD capable of displaying up to 16 bit color at 800×600. While Apple chose to retain traditional and cheaper CRTs for its all-in-one desktop line for the next 4 years, the TAM is undoubtedly the predecessor for the successful LCD-based iMac line of all-in-one desktops starting with the iMac G4 released in 2002. A substantial upgrade over the TAM, it contained a 15″ LCD supporting up to 1024×768 resolution. It was followed by a 17″ and 20″ models boasting resolution of up to 1680 × 1050. In 2005, the iMac G5 dropped the 15″ configuration and in 2007, the new iMac dropped the 17″ and added a 24″ to the line-up, further boosting resolution to 1920 x 1200. In October 2009, new iMac models moved to 16:9 aspect ratio screens at 21.5 and 27 inches.

The first desktop color flat-panel was introduced on March 17, 1998, with the 15″ Apple Studio Display (15-inch flat panel) which had a resolution of 1024×768. After the eMate, it was one of the first Apple products to feature translucent plastics, two months before the unveiling of the iMac. Apple called its dark blue color "azul". It had a DA-15 input as well as S-video, composite video, ADB and audio connectors, though no onboard speakers. In January 1999 the coloring was changed to match the blue and white of the new Power Macintosh G3s, and the connector changed to DE-15 VGA.

The 22″ widescreen Power Mac G4 and in the beginning was sold only as an option to the Power Mac G4, selling for US$3,999. It had a native resolution of 1600×1024 and used a DVI connector. The display had a striped look on the bezel, similar to previous Studio Displays and iMacs. In December, the colors of the 15″ display were changed to "graphite" to match the new Power Mac G4s, and the input was changed from VGA to DVI, the audio and video features dropped, and the ADB functionality replaced by a two-port USB hub.

In 2000 the 22″ Cinema Displays switched to the ADC interface, and the 15″ Studio Display was remodeled to match the Cinema Display"s easel-like form factor and also featured the Apple Display Connector. In 2001 an LCD-based 17″ Studio Display was introduced, with a resolution of 1280×1024. In 2002 Apple introduced the

In 2004 a new line was introduced, utilizing the same 20″ and 23″ panels alongside a new 30″ model, for $3,299. The displays had a sleek aluminum enclosure with a much narrower bezel than their predecessors. The 20″ model featured a 1680×1050 resolution, the 23″ 1920×1200, and the 30″ 2560×1600. The 30″ version requires a dual-link interface, because a single-link DVI connection (the most common type) doesn"t have enough bandwidth to provide a picture to a display of this resolution. Initially, the only graphics cards that could power the new 30″ display were the Nvidia GeForce 6800 DDL series, available in both GT and Ultra forms. The DDL suffix signified the dual-link DVI capability. The less expensive of the two cards retailed for US$499, raising the net cost of owning and using the display to nearly $3,800. Later graphics options included the NVIDIA Quadro FX 4500; the card included two dual-link DVI connectors which allowed a Power Mac G5 to run two 30″ Cinema Displays simultaneously with the total number of pixels working out to 8.2 million.

With the introduction of the Unibody MacBook family, Apple introduced the 24-inch LED Cinema Display, its first desktop display to use the new Mini DisplayPort connector, and also the first with an LED-backlit LCD. It had built-in speakers, a powered 3-port USB hub on the rear, an iSight camera and microphone, and a MagSafe power adapter for laptops. It also connected by USB for peripherals. It has a resolution of 1920×1200 and retailed for US$899.00. In 2010 it was replaced with a new 27-inch version with a resolution of 2560×1440.

Apple announced the Pro Display XDR at the 2019 WWDC, the first Apple-branded display since the Apple Thunderbolt Display was discontinued in 2016. The display contains a 6016×3384 6K color-calibrated Extreme Dynamic Range (XDR) panel.

Compatible with: eMac, iMac G5, iMac G4 flat-panel, 12-inch PowerBook G4, or iBooks having a Mini-VGA port. Most Macintosh computers with the Mini-VGA port can also use the Apple Video Adapter for S-video & Composite output options.