lcd panel case mod factory

Case modding took off in the late 90s, and taught us all that computers could (and should!) look awesome. Much of the aesthetic went mainstream, and now tons of computer cases come with lights and windows and all the rest. [WysWyg_Protogen] realized those simple case windows could be way cooler with a neat LCD hack, and set to work.

The concept is simple. Take an old LCD monitor, remove the backlight and extraneous hardware, and then install it to the window in a computer case. When lit from behind via LEDs in the case, the screen creates a ghostly display through which the computer’s internals can still partially be seen. It’s a really compelling effect, and in theory, quite easy to achieve. All one need do is mount the stripped-down screen to the case and pipe it video from the graphics card.

In practice, it’s a little tricky. Disassembling the screen and removing things like the anti-glare coating can be tough to do without damaging the delicate panel inside. The windows typically used on computer cases can dull the effect, too. However, [WysWyg_Protogen] is continuing to tinker with the project and the results are getting increasingly impressive with each iteration. It doesn’t photograph too well, but it looks truly amazing in motion.

We often forget LCDs are transparent in their basic form, as we generally only use them with backlights or reflective backers. They really do look great when used in this transmissive way, though. Video after the break.

Actually beside myself right now. How does this look this good? This was a trash pile monitor and this looks like a 700 dollar case upgrade pic.twitter.com/4yBXlcY921

Hi everybody! Bill Owen from Mnpctech. I hope you"re having a great day! Several people have asked if I could share the steps on how I do my Touchscreen LCD mod in PC Computer case bezels, and you’ve come to the right video!

I’ve been using this Amazon 5 Inch Capacitive Touch Screens for $52.99 delivered on Amazon Prime, I’ll posted a link in Video description. The kit comes a with Micro USB for power and HDMI video connector, but these cables are too short for these PC case mods. It includes M3 stand-offs, a Driver Disc and some Instructions. It’s a 5 point Capacitive Touch screen with a Resolution of 800 x 460, which is just fine for it’s 5” viewing screen In addition to the LCD touchscreen, I will buy the following cables for my Desktop Custom PC LCD Case Mod.

One 3ft “Right Angle” 270 degree HDMI cord, 6” 90 Degree Angle HDMI Extension Adapter, and 3ft USB Male to Micro B power connector. For Mounting the LCD Touchscreen Panel, I use 3/16” thick Black acrylic to make custom mounting brackets for the LCD touch screen.

You can PAUSE the video on this page to record the measurements that I’ve made for cutting the acrylic. This PC Case Mod is very easy. "The reason I’m making brackets for my desktop PC LCD Monitor Mod?" I want the ability to easily install or remove the Touchscreen with thumbscrews. I’m using 1/8” drill bit for acrylic, and 6/32 thread tap, These Black thumbscrews from Mnpctech.com. I’ll use the 1/8” drill bit to increase the diameter of the holes in the LCD pcb frame.

I discovered these drill bits for plastic several years ago, Notice the bit isn’t splintering or cracking the acrylic as I make the holes. Mnpctech stocks a variety of these drills bits. My mod requires Twelve 6/32 washers, and links posted in description, “Why so many washers?” We want the Touchscreen to mount flush on the backside of the bezel, I also don’t want to apply any unnecessary pressure to the screen or the PCB, See how this sheet of paper easily slides under the screen Next stage is cutting the hole in the bezel, The best PC case for this mod is the ones without optical drive bays, which every popular case manufacturer now offers.

If you’re using an older case with 5.25 drive bays, you could attach a mounting plate with 5” opening that covers THREE 5.25 bays. That’s how we did this mod in the early days of PC Modding. Determine and measure out a location in the center of your bezel, you can also mount the LCD vertically if you prefer, and just change the screen orientation in Windows. Since the bezel is plastic, I’m using a Dremel with 1.5” reinforced cut off wheel, Don’t forget to always wear eye protection when using power tools. Oops, WTH? Hahaha After cutting our 5” diagonal square hole, I’ll hand file the edges so everything is precise and clean. You may have to remove sound insulation foam from backside of your bezel, I’m using E6000 adhesive to attach the two mounting brackets. This adhesive is very GOOEY at first, so consider masking off the screen, to prevent getting any of this on it. I like that it’s tacky for couple of minutes, so I have time to position the LCD in place, and then I’ll temporarily tape it in place while it cures overnight.

Mounting your Touchscreen LCD in the PC this way allows you to easily remove and re-install the LCD at any time. Especially if you ever need to replace it for some reason. Let’s get this LCD touchscreen connected to the PC, all of the cables are routed from the front to thee rear PCI slots. *3ft “Right Angle” 270 degree HDMI cord *6” 90 Degree Angle HDMI Extension Adapter cable, I plug this compact cable into the Touchscreen to save space. *3ft USB Male to Micro B power connector This mod is great if you want an extra screen for monitoring your hardware and temps. You can also display Weather or calendar or email notifications,

Check out http://www.Rainmeter.net this community offers several hundred custom mad graphic interfaces for FREE, and you can configure your screen to display a variety of updated information tasks Thanks for watching! And Again, all of the products used in this PC case mod are listed in the video description.

The Intel booth at PAX West hosted iBUYPOWER"s Snowblind case mod, an early mock-up made to integrate an LCD panel into an NZXT Noctis 450 side panel. The team has since improved its mod by adding a light guide, useful for darkening the black colors and reducing “fuzziness” of the output, increasing contrast overall. The side of the case has also now moved the LCD PCB and wiring to the top of the panel, nearer the CPU, as an effort to improve viewing angles and reduce the discoloration observed from non-oblique angles. As a side effect, this improves cable management by rerouting the monitor wiring through the top of the case, more concealable with an N450, rather than through the PSU shroud.

The goal of this revisit was to get a better understanding of how the Snowblind works, since our PAX coverage was entirely based on a quick study on the show floor. The enclosure mounts a 5:4 (1280x1024) resolution LCD to the side of an NZXT Noctis 450, which has its left side panel manually punched by NZXT"s factory that we previously toured. You can actually see some of the machines responsible for this process in our video tour of the Shenzhen-based God Speed Casing factory. This is a one-off punch done by the factory team, but could be tooled-up for mass production if the Snowblind ends up as an actual product.

The Hyte Y60 is one of the best PC cases on the market, and it’s getting a big upgrade in the form of an official DIY mod kit. TheHyte Y60 LCD DIT kit is available now for $120, allowing you to replace one of the tempered glass panels of the case with a programable screen.

If you frequent PC builds on Reddit or Instagram, you’ve probably seen this mod before. For months, community members have bought screens that fit in the gap in Hyte’s case and used community 3D-printed mounts to attach them. In a Reddit thread several months back, in fact, the company responded to a user’s build with “THIS IS SO COOL.”

The screen comes with a resolution of 1920 x 515, and it’s not something you can control through software. Instead, the included driver board includes a mini HDMI connection that you’ll need to route through your PC and connect to your graphics card. After that, the panel will show up as another monitor in your operating system.

Originally, the mod was made for Aida64’s SensorPanel software, which allows you to display sensors like system utilization, CPU speed, and temperature in custom themes. You can still download and use these themes with Hyte’s DIY kit, but you can also display images, videos, or anything else you want.

The LCD kit was among Hyte’s CES 2023 announcements. The company also announced the new Hyte Y40 case, which is a slimmed-down version of the wildly popular Y60. Instead of the dual-chamber design of the Y60 and fish tank-like look, the Y40 opts for a traditional power supply basement and a slimmer form factor.

Although it’s smaller overall, the Y40 actually has more space for your graphics card, which could make a big difference with GPUs like the RTX 4090. The vertical GPU mount includes four slots as opposed to the three slots on the Y60. The case is also $50 cheaper, clocking in at $150.

We’ve seen some incredible Star Trek case mods over the years, ranging from shuttlecraft to replica Enterprise starship, and it turns out you don’t need to be a Starfleet-grade engineer to enjoy such wares.

The folk over at CherryTree have a range of officially licensed PC cases available to purchase, and have been producing stellar-looking chassis for the last few years. They’ve somehow managed to escape our attention up until now, but caught our eye courtesy of Les Pounder over at Tom’s.

Based out of California, CherryTree positions itself as the antithesis of Thermaltake or Corsair. “We do not punch out tens of thousands of cases each month from a Chinese factory,” says the company, whose goal is to “combine the beauty and awesomeness of SciFi Props and Vessels with recent computer technology.”

Sounds a-okay to us, and Star Trek fans old and new alike will be grinning at the prospect of a Borg PC case. CherryTree’s ATX variant, pictured above and below, now comes in a choice of black or white colour schemes with prices starting at $399. A fair chunk of change, but then this is a hand-crafted case built to order, and as such there are plenty of optional extras.

Add a 7in LCD display, a high-airflow bottom plate with three fans, fibre-optic RGB illumination and some laser engraving, and the price quickly rises over $500. It isn’t for everyone, clearly, yet there’s a good amount of potential for those who love PC tech by day and dress up in Star Trek uniform by night.

CherryTree uses hand-painted detailing for a more authentic representation of the Borg Artifact from Star Trek: Picard, and there’s thought been put into airflow, too. The cube itself comprises 16 separate panels to ensure multiple vents of different sizes.

As for hardware capabilities, the 380mm x 380mm Cube can accommodate a choice of regular ATX, micro-ATX or mini-ITX motherboard, up to a 240mm liquid-cooling radiator, full-size graphics cards and up to three storage devices.

Star Trek is seeing something of a renaissance, but let’s face it, we Trekkies need no excuse to splash out on memorabilia as eye-catching as this. Fortunately, if the price tag or Borg are just too scary, a regular Star Trek Edition case is also available starting at $159 with a choice of Star Trek faceplate designs.

3D printing has taken the manufacturing industry by storm but, it’s also recently weaved it’s way into PC Case Modding. PC Case Modding is a way that users can customize their d...

An ATX case. The motherboard (MicroATX) is in a horizontal position at the top, and the peripheral connectors go at the panel located at the rear of the case and USB ports at the top. The fans are also at the rear and front. The power supply is on the bottom rear.

A computer case, also known as a computer chassis, is the enclosure that contains most of the hardware of a personal computer. The components housed inside the case (such as the CPU, motherboard, memory, mass storage devices, power supply unit and various expansion cards) are referred as the internal hardware, while hardware outside the case (typically cable-linked or plug-and-play devices such as the display, speakers, keyboard, mouse and USB flash drives) are known as

Conventional computer cases are fully enclosed, with small holes (mostly in the back panel) that allow ventilation and cutout openings that provide access to plugs/sockets (back) and removable media drive bays (front). The structural frame (chassis) of a case is usually constructed from rigid metals such as steel (often SECC — steel, electrogalvanized, cold-rolled, coil) and aluminium alloy, with hardpoints and through holes for mounting internal hardware, case fans/coolers and for organizing cable management. The external case panels, at least one of which are removable, cover the chassis from the front, sides and top to shield the internal components from physical intrusion and dust collection, and are typically made from painted metallic and/or plastic material, while other materials such as mesh, tempered glass, acrylic, wood and even Lego bricks have appeared in many modern commercial or home-built cases. In recent years, open frame or open air cases that are only partly enclosed (with freer ventilation and thus theoretically better cooling) have become available in the premium gaming PC market.

Cases can come in many different sizes and shapes, which are usually determined by the form factor of the motherboard since it is physically the largest hardware component in most computers. Consequently, personal computer form factors typically specify only the internal dimensions and layout of the case. Form factors for rack-mounted and blade servers may include precise external dimensions as well since these cases must themselves fit in specific enclosures.

For example, a case designed for an ATX motherboard and power supply unit (PSU) may take on several external forms such as a vertical tower (designed to sit on the floor, height > width), a flat desktop (height < width) or monitor). Full-size tower cases are typically larger in volume than desktop cases, with more room for drive bays, expansion slots, and custom or all-in-one (AIO) water cooling solutions. Desktop cases—and mini-tower cases under about 46 cm (18 in) high—are popular in business environments where space is at a premium.

Currently, the most popular form factor for desktop computers is ATX,small form factors have also become very popular for a variety of uses. In the high-end segment, the unofficial and loosely defined XL-ATX specification appeared around 2009. It extends the length of the mainboard to accommodate four graphics cards with dual-slot coolers. Some XL-ATX mainboards increase the mainboard"s width as well, to allow more space for the CPU, Memory PWM, and in some cases, a second CPU socket. While the market share of these exotic high-end mainboards is very low, almost all high-end cases and many mainstream cases support XL-ATX (10 expansion slots). As of 2018, no major motherboard manufacturer has made an XL-ATX board for several years. E-ATX is similar to XL-ATX in that it is larger than ATX and is also loosely defined. Unlike XL-ATX, E-ATX motherboards and cases are still in production (as of 2020), and support quad-channel memory across 8 slots of ram, up to 4 PCI-e expansion slots for up to 4 double slot graphics cards and a single CPU such as the AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3990X.In Win Development, Shuttle Inc. and AOpen originally popularized small cases, for which FlexATX was the most commonMini ITX has widely replaced FlexATX as the most common small form factor mainboard standard. The latest mini ITX mainboards from Asus, Gigabyte, MSI, ASRock, Zotac and Foxconn offer the same feature set as full size mainboards. High-end mini ITX mainboards support standard desktop CPUs, use standard memory DIMM sockets, and mostly feature a full-size PCI-E 16× slot with support for the fastest graphics cards, although some instead use a PCI, or PCIe slot of fewer than 16 lanes. This allows customers to build a fully-fledged high-end computer in a significantly smaller case. Apple Inc. has also produced the Mac Mini computer, which is similar in size to a standard CD-ROM drive, and many manufacturers offer mini-ITX cases of similar size for low-wattage CPUs with integrated graphics.

Tower cases are often categorized as mini-tower, midi-tower, mid-tower, or full-tower. The terms are subjective and inconsistently defined by different manufacturers.

Full tower cases are typically 56 cm (22 in) or more in height and intended to stand on the floor. They can have anywhere from six to ten externally accessible drive bays. The full tower case was originally developed to house file servers which would typically be tasked with serving data from expensive CD-ROM databases that held more data than the hard drives commonly available at the time. Hence, many full tower cases include locking doors and other physical security features to prevent theft of the discs. However, as computing technology moves from floppy disks and CD-ROMs to large capacity hard drives, USB flash drives, and network-based solutions, more recent full tower cases typically only have none, one, or two external bays for CD drives, with the internal bays moved elsewhere in the case to improve airflow. Today, full tower cases are commonly used by enthusiasts as showpiece display cases with custom water cooling, lighting, and tempered glass (replacing acrylic).

The marketing term midi-tower sometimes refers to cases smaller than mid-tower but larger than mini-tower, typically with two to three external bays.mid-tower.

Computer cases usually include sheet metal enclosures for a power supply unit and drive bays, as well as a rear panel that can accommodate peripheral connectors protruding from the motherboard and expansion slots. Most cases also have a power button or switch, a reset button, and LEDs to indicate power, hard drive activity, and network activity in some models. Some cases include built-in I/O ports (such as USB and headphone ports) on the front of the case. Such a case will also (normally) include the wires needed to connect these ports, switches, and indicators to the motherboard.

The motherboard is usually screwed to the case along its largest face, which could be the bottom or the side of the case depending on the form factor and orientation.

Form factors such as ATX provide a back panel with cut-out holes to expose I/O ports provided by integrated peripherals, as well as expansion slots which may optionally expose additional ports provided by expansion cards. Many larger ATX cases can also be used with motherboards of other form factors.

The power supply unit mounting point differs from case to case, but the most commonly used locations (both at the rear of the case) and their advantages/disadvantages are:

The top of the case, usually allowing the PSU"s built-in fan to act as an auxiliary exhaust fan but causes the PSU to be fed air heated by the internal components of the case, thus causing PSU efficiency and lifespan degradation.

Most cases include drive bays on the front of the case; a typical ATX case includes 5.25", 3.5" and 2.5" bays. In modern computers, the 5.25" bays are used for optical drives, the 3.5" bays are used for hard drives and card readers, and the 2.5" bays are used for solid-state drives.

Buttons and LEDs are typically located on the front of the case; some cases include additional I/O ports, temperature, and processor speed monitors in the same area.

Vents are often found on the front, back, top, left side panel, and sometimes on the right-side panel of the case. Regardless of their placement, their purpose is either to let cool air into the case or to let hot air out. Larger vents usually allow cooling fans to be mounted via surrounding threaded screw holes. Newer cases include mountings for larger 120mm or 140mm cooling fans for quieter operation than the 80mm fans formerly common.

An I/O template, or I/O plate, fits around the motherboard"s back panel of external ports. Sometimes provided by the case manufacturer, it is often replaced by the one that comes with the motherboard.

Accessing the interior components of a modern ATX tower case is done by removing the side panels. Looking front-to-back, accessing the motherboard, PSU, drive bays, and most case fan installation points are done by removing the left side panel.

Removing the right-side panel is done less often to access the space behind the motherboard mounting plate. This space is devoted to cable management, as cables routed in front of the motherboard may disrupt the flow of air within the case causing increased temperatures.BTX, an uncontemporary standard, has the main side panel on the right side as opposed to the left. Some upside-down designed ATX cases are also accessed by removing the right-side panel door.

To prevent the buildup of performance-degrading dust within the case, many models feature dust filters in front of the air intake fans. While the exact method of accessing the front filters depends on the case model, it usually requires the removal of the entire front panel. Removal of the front panel itself may or may not require the removal of one or both of the side panels. If there is any doubt, consult the user"s manual if possible.

Traditionally, most computer cases required computer case screws to hold components and panels in place (i.e. motherboard, PSU, drives, and expansion cards). From the early 2000s onwards there is a trend towards tool-less cases, in which components are held together with snap-in plastic rails, thumbscrews, and other methods that do not require tools; this facilitates quick assembly and modification of computer hardware and is also cheaper to manufacture.

Throughout the 1990s, most computer cases had simple rectangular shapes, and were often painted beige or white with little attention given to the visual design. Beige box designs are still found on a large number of budget computers assembled from generic components. This class of machines is still known as white box computers. More modern computer cases include a much wider range of variation in shape, color, form factor, and materials, such as brushed aluminium and/or tempered glass which are offered with more expensive cases.

Case modding is the artistic styling of computer cases, often to draw attention to the use of advanced or unusual components. Since the early 2000s, some cases have included clear side panels or acrylic windows so that users can look inside while it is operating. Modded cases may also include colored internal lighting, custom paint, or liquid cooling systems. Some hobbyists build custom cases from raw materials like aluminum, steel, styrofoam, acrylic, or wood.

Some computer cases include a biased switch (push-button) which connects to the motherboard. When the case is opened, the switch position changes, and the system records this change. The system"s firmware or BIOS may be configured to report this event the next time it is powered on.

This physical intrusion detection system may help computer owners detect tampering with their computers. However, most such systems are quite simple in construction; a knowledgeable intruder can open the case or modify its contents without triggering the switch.

In the past, many tower cases intended to house file servers featured a locking door covering the external drive bays. This was a security feature intended to prevent the theft of the CD-ROM discs the drives would be holding. At the time, CD-ROM capacity was larger than the hard disks available, and many business-critical databases were distributed on this media. These databases were often very expensive or held proprietary data, and hence would be likely targets for casual theft.

Welcome to the first installment of the Titan Rig PC Modding Blog Series. Titan Rig has been serving the custom PC community since 2014, and we’re committed to expanding our product offerings, services and help to cultivate PC culture. We wanted to take some time to thank the PC modders among you for everything you’ve done. After all, whole industries have been born from the passion of PC modding!

I’m a modder myself, having dived into the game with both feet in 2000. I’ve watched with interest as the hobby and the surrounding industries have grown and changed since then. I hope we here at Titan Rig can provide both the materials and the knowledge to get some of the budding modders out there what they need to get started.

We’ve got a lot of information coming in the PCModding Series and we hope it helps to spawn some new modders on the field. To kick off the series we wanted to offer an intro of sorts – a brief history of PC modding.

When a few people do something for the same reason it’s simple logic. When it gets noticed and others start to do the same things it’s a trend. Sometimes trends stick around long enough to solidify and become known as hobbies. That’s the path that PC modding has taken. While I’m sure that people have been making changes to their personal computers since they were first available, those people were few and far between. Most were happy to use the machine as it came and enjoy its function. That started to change around 1999, when CPU overclocking started to become more mainstream. At that time, CPU clock speed was the point by which any CPU was measured. When people started to find out that they could get an extra 30% performance boost out of their Pentium III with some relatively simple setting changes the more adventurous didn’t hesitate. The ease of the increase, the spreading of the information and the industry’s willingness to play along made overclocking more common still.

So, what does overclocking have to do with modding? During this era PC coolers and cases were designed to do their job adequately and that was all… They simply weren’t able to keep up with the unavoidable byproduct of overclocking – heat. The first mods that would really fit into our definition were air flow mods, made out of necessity. When the air flow given by the case and cooler designs of the time wasn’t enough, PC modders went to work. We as a group are not easily satisfied. Not wanting to leave the side panels off of our beloved PCs, modders cut ventilation holes in them. Not happy with that, some made air ducts that ensured that the CPU cooler would receive nothing but cooler ambient air. Fearing recirculation, exhaust holes were cut in the tops of the cases and fans mounted there. Larger and more powerful fans were made to fit in cases never designed for them.

At this point, the tinkerers in the group that didn’t even overclock began to take notice. Overclocked or not, they wanted their PC to run as cool as possible. CPU heat sinks were made at home from aluminum and copper. Improvements were made to the fans themselves like shrouds to improve air flow. Some even dared to bring liquid into the PC with homebrewed water cooling loops made from plumbing supplies and automotive parts. Many disasters no doubt happened but the modders kept on. The work expanded, with modders tackling issues like noise in addition to heat. Rubber washers were added to fans to minimize vibration. Modders made their own fan controllers that would slow their fans down for silence. They glued bubble wrap to the inside of their cases to keep the noise inside. Anything that could be improved was being improved. All of these were function mods, made to improve a specific area of performance in a PC and brought on by what the modder perceived as inferior design.

That hole that some modder first cut in his side panel to get better air flow to his CPU had an effect that he couldn’t have foreseen – the side window panel.

Modders are by and large proud people. We take pride in what we do and we like it to be seen, even if only by ourselves. After all the work we have done inside our PC we want to show it off. So of course, the logical course of action was to cut a big hole in the side of it and cover it with a clear cover. Sarcasm aside, that’s exactly what we as PC modders did. This really opened up the field of form mods. Unlike function mods, form mods are made by the modder to improve something’s appearance. They can’t be quantified or measured and their benefits are purely subjective, but the majority of modding today is done for form.

As the size of the group practicing PC modding grew, so did their connection. Another general characteristic of the PC modder is that we like to talk about our work. Sharing information on how a particular mod was done was key to the continued growth of the hobby. Those new to modding could learn from the mistakes of those who came before them.

As form modifications became more popular and more mainstream, a few budding entrepreneurs took note. They saw a market emerging and moved to supply it. Until this time modders had to acquire their materials from many different places and often had to buy a lot more than was needed as that was the only way it was sold. Once the modding supply industry came along it was suddenly even easier to get into it. The more dedicated suppliers started offering kits to achieve a specific modification and even sold pre-modded cases. Now the case you wanted with the side window and extra ventilation could be had with only a click of the mouse.

PC case modification had gotten so popular at this point that larger manufacturers of PC components began to take note. PC cases began to be offered with those sought-after side windows installed from the factory. Other options like fan controllers, temperature gauges and lighting were available from the case manufacturers with the foresight to offer them.

Ironically, the popularity of PC modding has served to stunt its own growth. Every manufacturer out there is now fully on board with the importance of aesthetics and functionality that was once unheard of in a PC case is commonplace. Why would someone go through the time and trouble of adding a side panel window to a case when there are so many options out there premade? It’s hard to argue the logic.

Yet modding is still going strong. It looks different than it used to. Economics have made it more like building with blocks than making something with raw lumber. Whatever you need for your mod, chances are someone makes it in a ready-to-use form. That’s not a bad thing really – it shows the maturity of the hobby. It makes it easier for more people to get into it, and I’m glad. There are still those who cut up their cases and make their own thing, and I’m glad of that as well. Those people are still innovating, and the industries are still watching.

Modding is easier now than it ever has been, and remains the only way to get a truly unique PC. We urge any of you who’ve been considering getting into PC modification to stay tuned, check out what we have to share with you, and go make that masterpiece. We’ll show you how.

Hey, back at it again. Originally I was going to build a wooden computer case to house my new desktop build, including space a pair of 240mm radiators for a CPU, GPU, and motherboard loop. But then I ended up deciding on the Asus Gryphon motherboard instead of the Maximus VI Gene. This led me to drop the motherboard from the loop. Since I don’t game, or need a graphics card that has a full cover block, I decided to keep my 4GB 640GT for now, and just go with a CPU loop for my first custom water-cooling loop.

This mod is named Visible Contrast due to the fact that it will be a black and white build, stemming off of the color scheme of the NZXT H230 Silent Chassis that I will be modding, after reviewing it at The Mod Zoo. There will also be a surprise for the side panel window, which will shed light on the name as well.

The mods will include making space for mounting a 240mm radiator in the front, and a window (of sorts) in the side panel, and a few other things here or there. I am hoping to keep this project pretty straight forward, and relatively quick.

Things were moving right along with this build, and this was actually one of the first things I did to this case, but in the interest of flow, I’ve held off on posting it until this update.

That’s all for this update. Next time I’ll be installing the custom window in the side panel, and getting some shots of it before I wrap up the few details that are left after that.