is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable factory

If that"s the case it should be fairly straight-forward. I"m guessing you already have the screen off; otherwise it wouldn"t have broken, so you probably know how to do that part.

Once the screen is off, you just have to remove the rear cover to get to where the LCD is plugged into the motherboard. Basically just take out a zillion screws, take off the back and flip it over. That whole procedure is shown in this video teardown; all you have to do is follow it up to about the 13:43 mark.

And of course you"ll need a replacement flex cable; you can find those all over the place; eBay, Amazon, AliExpress, etc. Here"s one of the first ones that came up on a search.

Its very common for flat-flex cables to break when disturbed where they were sharply creased. In your case, the break appears to be at the end of the upper layer of Kapton, where the tracks on the lower layer emerge from the "sandwich" to form the contacts. That"s always a weak spot if the stiffener isn"t well bonded with good overlap.

The first question is, is there enough slack in the ribbon cable to allow the broken end of the main part to be fully inserted in the connector, without straining any existing sharp bends at the back of the display or pulling it round any sharp corners?

If so, you may be able to peel back or abrade away the top layer of the flat-flex "sandwich" to expose the tracks to form a new connector end. If you cant peel the "sandwich" without lifting or otherwise damaging the tracks you"ll have to abrade the kapton cover layer away which is extremely tricky to do without damaging the tracks you need to preserve. Try gently scraping with a sharp scalpel towards the end of each track once the kapton layer starts to break up. If you"ve got a scrap cable of similar construction practice on it!

The exposed tracks will be bare copper which is extremely susceptible to corrosion, so if the connector has tinned contacts, you"ll need to tin them and wipe them smooth. If its got gold plated contacts, you are in for trouble as mixed gold and tin contact surfaces fret and are noted for frequently developing a poor connection. You could try chemically plating the copper with silver, which has better compatibility with gold, but without the ability to electroplate them (because there"s no good way of shorting them all together to permit electroplating without damaging the display) you"ll only get a thin layer and silver tarnishes extremely easily.

Once you"ve got usable contact surfaces, trim the end absolutely square with minimal loss of length, rough up the back of the cable and clean and rough up the stiffener, (which you need to peel off the old end and save) and glue the stiffener back onto the cable. You should then be good to go - "just reinsert it" and lock the connector, though with less slack in the cable that can be extremely fiddly.

Degradation of the fine ribbon cable in older TI graphing calculators is a familiar problem, manifesting as missing rows and columns in the LCD. Otherwise perfectly functional calculators are put to waste over two relatively short-lived ribbon cables, one of which is unreplaceable, with long-term repair methods elusive.

As the LCD is integral to the very purpose of the calculator, I was interested in correcting this common issue for the sake of correcting it. Something as trivial as "exercising" missing lines in the display would often reinvigorate them for about a day, which prompted me to investigate a more reliable repair.

Though TI does not specify the assembly method actually used, many similar ribbon cables are applied by hot press. While this entails expensive, specialized equipment, I learned to imitate the hot press process using inexpensive, readily-available components through a video on automobile instrument panel repair. Note that I modified the method since we are not able to install a new cable.

I have applied the method to seven graphing calculators exhibiting fine ribbon cable failure. In the 20 days between the repair and this writing, I observed a high degree of success across the calculators repaired.

Before continuing, check whether the fine ribbon cable is culprit. Missing or intermittently functioning lines are prime indicators of fine ribbon cable degradation. If the contents of the screen are garbled or corrupted, the coarse ribbon cable will need to be repaired first:

These are available on eBay for about US $7. The point of this is to distribute heat and pressure along the ribbon cable connection in a similar manner to a hot press. If given a choice between a tip for 30W, 45W, 60W, etc. choose 30W unless using a larger unregulated iron.

Use a soldering iron that fits this tip, which generally goes down a shaft without screw threads and is secured by a screw on the side. An iron with temperature control is preferable, though I have found that a 30 watt unregulated iron will do, if you are skilled or inclined to use one.

Install the T-tip with the silicone pad trimmed to size and allow the silicone contact surface to reach around 150 C. The 30W unregulated iron I tested reached this temperature as well.

Remove the circuit board from the calculator. Locate where the fine ribbon cable connects to the edge of the LCD glass. If there is foam padding attached, gently peel it off and set it aside. Be sure NOT to tear the ribbon cable off either end, which will ruin the chances of a successful repair.

Locate where the fine ribbon cable connects to the board. Set the LCD face down on a flat, non-abrasive surface and place the iron flat on the connection as such:

Use firm, even pressure on the connection and slowly slide the iron across the width of the cable. Take ~20-25 seconds for one pass. Do another pass. Alternate to the glass side and place the iron flat on the glass/cable connection as such:

Make two passes across the connection as before. The edge of the LCD may change color as heat is applied, but if it is turning a dark or purplish blue, move the iron faster to prevent overheating.

Now reassemble the calculator and test if the display looks good. If any defects remain, do another pass over the cable connections. There is the possibility, however, that some lines do not resolve even on the second or third attempts. These, unfortunately, will remain unrepairable.

Note: From my testing, the silicone pad is necessary to distribute heat and pressure along the cable. It will also wear out when used multiple times. Replace it when it no longer slides smoothly over the ribbon cable connection.

The TI-85 and 86 feature two ribbon cables, one on top responsible for vertical columns and one on the side for horizontal rows. Determine which one needs repair and move the side ribbon cable out of the way if necessary. I have yet to attempt a repair on the side ribbon cable, which appears more challenging to access than the top cable.

One TI-82 has one column that will start working once something is displayed on it. Despite two repair attempts, this column would not stay put when the calculator was powered off for a longer period of time.

Ideally, an economical, readily-available replacement LCD assembly without such a flawed ribbon cable would be available to prolong the useful life of TI graphing calculators. This is currently in the works as we see with KermMartian"s Surget. In the absence of a finished replacement LCD, this currently is the most effective method I have found to breathe new life into aging calculators, restoring the majority of, though not all, missing LCD lines.

Across a sample of seven calculators over 20 days, each LCD line that was repairable and repaired remained functional. The long-term viability of this repair method remains to be discovered, though it is one that vaguely emulates a common method of LCD ribbon cable assembly at the factory. In the meantime, I will take note of and post any significant changes that I notice on the calculators I have repaired using this method.

TI-80: Several missing columns and a missing row appeared. All but four columns returned to normal almost immediately. After moderate use of the screen, one column remained blank.

All calculators, except for the 0197I TI-85 (used daily), were largely unused in storage throughout the five-month period. I am not sure whether that made a significant difference.

No further repairs were attempted. Hopefully the repairs on the TI-82s and the TI-85 will continue to last a while more. I"d say this was a rather fun experiment and I will continue posting any significant developments.

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Back in the day, when a TV broke, the immediate next thing to do was get it repaired. TVs were kept for what seemed like forever. Now we have more prevalent warranties to quickly replace defective TVs. We can also fit the bill of buying a new TV as well. Replacing a broken TV with a brand-new one is no longer a rarity as costs have come down.

You can repair your TV if it has a minor electrical issue and has readily available parts that cost less than a brand new TV. Replace the broken TV if you have been using it for years, it’s in its last phase and develops an issue, and/or you are just due for an upgrade.

Although costs have come down, TVs are still delicate, and constantly replacing them is not economically feasible. And since it’s one of the most frequently used electronic items in the majority of households, its chances of breaking are higher.

Generally, this issue requires expert attention. However, you may try disconnecting the power cable from the electrical unit and plugging it back in after a few minutes. This should work if the power connection problem was temporary or a simple power transmission issue. Call your technician if your TV still doesn’t respond.

If your TV sounds normal, but the screen is black, the backlighting system is probably at fault. A backlight issue is usually looked at by an expert. However, a black screen might also mean the LCD (liquid-crystal display) panel is at fault and may require a replacement.

An LCD replacement is usually required if the screen is entirely black. If some portions of the visuals are visible, it’s the backlight, which means you have hope or the LCD need not be replaced. The service professional will change the backlight inverter board instead.

If multiple vertical lines can be seen running across your TV screen, it might be a sign that the LCD panel is showing signs of aging, and it requires immediate replacement. Replacing the LCD is a major expense, and it’s usually recommended to buy a new TV instead of replacing the LCD.

Multiple lines radiating from a point on the display and seeming to spread each time you turn on the TV is an indication that something or someone has come in physical contact with your TV, causing the internal glass to break. This issue, too, cannot be repaired and will need a change of panel.

This is the opposite of the problem mentioned above. When the picture is visible, but the audio is amiss, one or multiple things could be the cause(s). Most people readily put the blame on the speakers, which is understandable. But before doing so, check if the TV’s sound is low or on mute.

If you have a surround sound system or receiver connected to your television, check whether that’s on. If it isn’t on, turn it on because your TV will not produce any sound if it is turned off.

If the sound issue is still there, chances are the circuit board has malfunctioned. If the board is fine, the speaker hardware might have developed problems.

A flickering screen is a common issue, particularly with TVs that have lived fully. This issue usually surfaces without any sign or warning, and when it does show up, it brings down the TV with it. Turning the TV on again, however, could temporarily restore the picture.

This screen-flickering problem can be attributed to the TV’s main processor board. In other words, the board could be communicating with the backlight system through the control line to turn off the TV. You may try fixing this issue yourself at home if you know what a jumper wire is and how shorting two pins works. If all this sounds alien, contact a professional.

To fix the problem, your serviceman would have to replace the processor board or LED strip. In either case, you may have to shell out a considerable sum of money.

This could be an issue with the aspect ratio of your TV, which can be easily fixed by heading to the settings section in your TV’s interface and restoring the aspect ratio to the original ratio. This is perhaps the most straightforward issue and corresponding fix of all the TV problems listed here. If you cannot access the settings of your TV, perusing your TV’s manual or seeking help online would help.

Such weird outlining around objects and people on the screen could be due to the TV’s sharpness levels being too high. To set things right, head to the menu option on your TV and reduce picture sharpness.

Another possible cause for this could be your TV using some edge-enhancement processing, which may not be needed on high-definition screens. If this processing is the issue, consult your manual to find a fix by accessing the television’s service menu.

If the screen has partially greyed out, inspect the input devices first. Switch off the television and disconnect it from a media device(s), if connected to any. Now check whether the issue persists. If it does, check if tweaking the picture settings remedies the problem. If not, do a system reset.

The system reset functionality may not be the same for all TVs. On Samsung TVs, for instance, head to “Support,” “Self-Diagnosis,” and then “Reset.” If this doesn’t help too, it’s quite likely your TV’s T-con board is broken, soldered incorrectly, or some connection inside your TV is damaged. Professional assistance is mandatory in such cases.

If the image flickers like a strobe light, inspect all the input equipment attached to the TV. If the input devices are fine, inspect the power supply next. Surges could cause such flickering and flashing. If needed, switch off the TV, disconnect it, and long-press or keep pressing the power button for around 15 seconds to initiate power cycling. Turn on your TV after a couple of minutes.

If these steps do not fix the flickering, there could be an issue with the bulb, LED, or backlight within your television. When the light has reached its final phase, a flicker is a tell-tale sign. Not to mention, this issue needs professional care too.

If your TV is not too old and has current-gen specs, and it is from a reputable brand such as Samsung, LG, Sony, and the likes, it’s worth reviewing the issues of the TV or letting a technician look at it.

Besides the age of the TV, the size is a clear indicator of how relevant and modern your TV is. If your TV is less than 32 inches (81.3 cm), such as a 24-inch (61 cm) TV, it’s likely to be from the archives since 24-inch TVs are a bit too small as per current TV screen size standards. The now-ubiquitous 40 (101.6 cm) and 55-inch (139.7 cm) flat-screen TVs were not doing the rounds less than a decade ago.

And if the TV is around 65-inch (165 cm) or even bigger, it’s not recommended to throw the TV out willy-nilly. If a TV is 45 inches (114 cm) or bigger and only a few years old, it warrants a professional inspection.

Not all old TVs with problems should head to the dumpster or the recycling center. If you’ve had a TV working without any issues for half a decade or more and it has only recently encountered problems, check if you could salvage it before giving up on it. Several older LED or LCD televisions have better build qualities than modern televisions and may last several years after repair.

If your LED or LCD TV makes clicking sounds repeatedly or won’t turn on, you can safely put the blame on your TV’s capacitor. Repairing your TV’s capacitor might sound complicated, especially if you’re a total noob, but it’s not that complex once you dig in and put in the effort to learn how it’s done.

Issues with your TV’s power supply are also something that can be repaired easily. Though a power supply problem is not as minor as the aforementioned capacitor issue, it still could be fixed by yourself if you’re willing to do some homework. Similarly, HDMI issues, audio problems, etc., can be fixed too.

If your TV is physically damaged, such as a crack in the panel, a warped or broken frame that’s hindering TV function, etc., it’s not worth trying to restore the TV to its original condition. You may not be able to fix a physically hampered TV in the first place completely.

Even if you manage to get the TV’s physical condition to be 90% of what it was before the damage happened, it may have some workability issues that won’t come to the fore right away.

A few months or a year down the line, a certain aspect(s) of the TV may start giving you trouble, and diagnosing the matter will help you get to the root of the problem, which would lie in the physical damage that happened a few months or a year ago.

If you live in an area or region where skilled and experienced TV technicians are not available, or if the likelihood of the ones available ripping you off or indulging in unethical business practices is greater, repairing your TV is not worth the money, time, and hassle.

Some shady TV repair shops may charge you a diagnostics fee or for a service call and then would never get back to you or only call back to let you know the components for your TV aren’t available anymore. For such futile service calls, you could be charged up to $100. For that price, you can buy a new TV instead, albeit modest.

One easy, effective way to ascertain if you’re dealing with a dependable technician is getting on the phone with them before doing business. Talk about the issues you’re facing with your TV and check what the technician has to say. Their response will give you a reasonably good idea about whether the technician knows his trade or not.

Ask the technician about what they have seen with your brand of TV, what to expect when diagnosing and fixing the problem, and other relevant questions to make you feel at ease.

If you want more basic information, ask about their credentials and experience. You can also visit their office or place of service in person. If TV technicians and similar tradespersons are accredited by the state or local governing bodies in your region, find out if the technician you’re considering for your job has any to their credit.

If you’ve set your eyes on the latest OLED or QLED TV that your favorite brand just released and you were looking for an excuse to upgrade to it from your existing TV, go ahead and buy the new TV. If the one you want is out of your price range, set a savings goal to figure out when you can buy one. Don’t do rent to own or make monthly payments to an intermediary. It’s sometimes good to make impulse buys, but never good to make stupid financial decisions.

Perhaps, you’ve recently renovated your house, and your decade-old TV is sticking out like a sore thumb in the grand scheme of things. Maybe the bezels are too thick; the screen is not big enough anymore; the tech built-in is outdated; it’s not “smart,”; etc. There could be multiple reasons why it just may not be worth it to repair your old TV.

In several scenarios, a TV not working properly may not be a fault inherent to the TV itself. For instance, it could be the power outlet or the TV’s power cable not plugged in properly. If the TV is acting up, switch it off, unplug it, and let it remain unplugged for a few minutes.

In most cases, this should fix any issues you may have been facing with your TV, and unplugging and plugging in your TV is not even technically “repairing” it. In other words, even some of the major TV issues could be due to a silly cause or an overlooked error. This happens more often than not. Working in the IT field, especially early on, I saw this type of thing more often than not.

In a few other instances, the remote or cable box/satellite receiver could be causing issues. The remote, for example, may not have been programmed well. If your TV turns on, but there is no sound or picture to boot, check your cable box. Try resetting your satellite receiver by unplugging it from its source and plugging it in again after a few minutes.

If your TV’s display goes bust and the television is out of warranty, it’s recommended you buy a new TV as display-changing expenses can be close to, on par, or even greater than the cost of a brand-new unit. Based on the display tech, the prices will vary.

A TV display panel is made of several thin screens. A film is applied to the outside of the panel to protect it from shattering. These panels are fragile and could get physically damaged easily. When damaged, these are almost impossible to put back together.

There are different types of TV panels, and based on the kind, what goes between the thin screens and protective film can vary. In LCD and LED TV panels, for instance, a liquid crystal is used. Plasma TVs use gas, and OLED TVs use organic molecules called emissive layers.

LCDs and LEDs are the two leading display technologies. Plasma TVs are almost obsolete, thanks to the popularity of LCDs. OLED panels are relatively new to the market and are gaining quite a bit of traction, thanks to their reputation for producing “pure blacks” and being power-efficient.

If you use your TVs for four to six hours a day, expect the screen to come good for at least a decade – irrespective of the display type. But there are multiple horror stories of TV displays going bad much earlier than the claimed timeframe.

Damaged TV screens cannot be repaired, as mentioned earlier. If your TV’s display has developed a hardware issue, it must be replaced. But replacing the TV display is a major repair job.

The multiple glass layers constituting a TV display consist of thin conductor layers, which transmit a signal to the actual pixels from the controller board. When a glass layer breaks, usually the front one, the signal cannot move to some of the pixels.

As a result, the damage could be just a portion of the screen, a single line or multiple lines, or the entire screen. Regardless of the kind of damage, the conductive traces cannot be restored even if the glass is fully repaired.

Also, to change the display or let the new display go in, all the TV components must be removed. Once the new display panel is installed, the rest of the elements, such as the boards, sensors, speakers, rear panel, etc. Not to mention, replacing the TV display is time-consuming and requires a skilled TV technician.

Because changing the TV display is expensive – at times more than the actual price of the TV – it’s not worth getting it replaced over buying a new unit altogether. A damaged screen is an issue even if your unit is on warranty. Generally, a damaged screen or any physical damage is not covered under warranty. Even the extended warranty you purchased won’t come to your rescue.

If you’ve bought accidental insurance, however, you might have some hope. For instance, Samsung Premium Care is a service plan that covers unexpected, unintentional, and/or sudden external damage to its TVs, which includes water damage.

Why is changing a display more expensive than a new TV, you may ask. That’s because putting back a brand-new display into an already used TV is not the same thing or process as fitting it in a factory or at the time of manufacturing.

Also, not every technician has the necessary skills to install a new screen into a used TV. And with the vast array of models and makes, most third-party service professionals are not too keen on upgrading their skills, especially with the standards changing regularly.

If you manage to find the right technician, your service costs will go through the roof. Add labor cost to the new panel’s price, and you have a hefty bill to foot.

Sending the TV to the manufacturer is an option, but it depends on where you live and the actual manufacturer itself. If you live in a relatively busy district and your TV is not by some obscure brand, a repair is possible. If otherwise, you’re not in luck.

You may consider selling your TV with a broken display for scrap or to someone who has the expertise and is willing to repair the unit and use it or resell it, or you may even trade in your TV for a brand new one with a retailer. Not all retailers, however, will be keen on placing any value on your broken TV. Even if they do, the trade-in price would be meager.

Unlike the tube TVs of yore, flat-screen televisions are not easy to fix. The thinner any tech gets, the more difficult it becomes to dig in and repair them. The tale with flat-screen TVs is similar.

Compared to CRT TVs, modern smart or non-smart TVs have fewer parts. In other words, they are highly integrated. Service technicians might carry out necessary power supply repairs or fix a particular switch. If the issue is any bigger, manufacturer-specific spare components will be needed, and procuring them can be difficult.

Modern TV manufacturers are aware of this and choose not to do anything about it because there is money to be made with their current strategy. In other words, modern electronics such as TVs are made to fail and discarded. Companies making these TVs have newer models to sell to you, and it just doesn’t make any business sense for them to help you keep your existing TV for longer.

Therefore, instead of producing a product that lasts decades, they make a product that is durable enough to live through its warranty period and then falter or give up the ghost altogether. In economics, this phenomenon is referred to as “planned obsolescence.”

Talking about display repair (again), many modern TVs are not backed by spare displays. Manufacturers know their consumers will not pay for a repair that costs more than the actual TV’s price. They, therefore, do not bother making extra panels. All the displays they make for a particular model go into an existing, brand-new TV.

TV prices, like prices of most consumer electronics goods, have been on the decline. Therefore, if a TV repair presents itself and the costs of setting it right are more than half the price of a brand-new TV, it’s recommended you nix the repair and buy a new one instead.

However, not all repairs are major or unrepairable. Some issues may not need expert attention. For example, if the unit is turning on and off on its own, the fault could be at its power source. Simply unplugging the television from its electrical outlet could remedy the situation.

The newer ribbon type DMDs are notorious for being unrepairable. This is due to the carbon traces used on the display glass. If a ribbon cable gets damaged, it"s otherwise not a big deal to replace it and run jumpers. This has been tried before many times but nobody has reported they have fixed dead lines on these things. I read soldering the carbon pads on the glass could not be done.

I got this one from a bulk trade and figured I would try and fix it since it"s otherwise a paperweight. I suspected the top left ribbon cable but then realized after gently flexing the cable various directions that was not the case. So I carefully used a spudger tool to separate the glass from the PCB and gently remove the row ribbon cable a little bit at a time.

I narrowed the issue down to a column driver IC in the immediate area of the affected lines. I put this under a component microscope and found all 16 legs on the ribbon cable side closest to the top of the DMD were separated from the board. A quick drag solder technique with plenty of flux cleaned that up.

Now the fabled un-fixable ribbon cable. Legend has it that many aspiring techs have tried to tackle this wild beast in the past and have failed. I dug up this quote from another thread which pinpoints exactly why:

So I tried to convince myself to leave the ribbon cable in place, as I was able to tin all 32 leads on the board without trouble. But I realized the cable was trashed at the section where it meets the board. I tried to solder but the plastic cable started melting immediately.

After scraping off what appeared to be conductive adhesive, I tried to tin the pads on the glass with solder. At first I had no luck, but with enough flux and scraping away the remaining residue I was actually able to tin one the leads. Yay!!

Now the really nerve wracking part... soldering all 32 jumper wires and crossing my fingers. I used silicone wire because of its flexibility, trying to avoid any stress on any of the carbon pads. At first this was working pretty well. But the occasional wire would become desoldered as I moved along tacking on the neighboring ones. What really killed my momentum was seeing the desoldered wires take the actual carbon pads with them. When trying to re-attach the jumpers, there was no carbon left at all to grab on to. NOOO!!

So even though I was I able to solder to the carbon pads on the glass itself, the adhesion of the carbon after 24 years on this 1996 Cherry display was compromised and it lifted right off the glass. Not sure why, maybe it was heat during operation or heat when soldering that caused it. Or maybe just a poor printing process in general. Since I knew this was a failure I removed the remaining jumpers from the glass. Some were connected well, others didn"t take much force to pull off.

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iPhone 14 Plus Teardown iFixit News Skip to main content Fix Your Stuff Community Store Teardowns The iPhone 14 Plus Is More Repairable Too Article by: Sam Goldheart @sam October 7, 2022 Filed under: Teardowns, Tech News Add Comment Facebook Twitter Reddit Linkedin Email Copy Link Share Did you forget there was another iPhone 14 coming out? We don’t blame you

The good news is that the iPhone 14 Plus follows in the repairable footsteps of the basic 14, spurning the outmoded, less-repairable 14 Pro form-factor

Heating, prying and a little suction get us a solid foothold on the screen, and opening it up grants us the view we’ve come to love: a protective shield, and easily-accessed set of screen connectors

Basic smartphone construction has remained virtually unchanged since the iPhone 5 a decade ago, with most Android phones relying on even older rear-opening patterns

While that consistent design heritage makes manufacturing easier, it does feel a bit stagnant, and more importantly, hasn’t done much to improve repairability

Better late than never! Allowing the screen and rear case to open independently does three things: 1) It minimizes the chance of collateral damage to high value components, ie you won’t accidentally break the screen on your way to a battery swap

2) You get immediate access to the two most breakable components: the screen and back glass and 3) battery replacement is just as easy as before—a must since all li-ion batteries are consumable components

Speaking of batteries, a slick screen removal is nice but we really care about battery access, so it’s time to pry open that previously-unrepairable back glass! Aside from a decidedly more gigantic battery (weighing in at 16

Removable front and back panels effectively doubles the ingress points, but Apple is clearly confident in the design as they used it on the Plus—their biggest phone in the lineup

We’ve also got a bright glimmer of hope for the other half of the product lineup in the coming models, and that’s about the best holiday gift we could ask for

Although, if we can ask one more thing, maybe Apple can focus their ingenuity on their Apple Watch line, too? Exposed screws and dual entry is great, but unlike the 14 and 14 Plus, the changes didn’t get us much

Here’s hoping for more intrepid exploration on Apple’s part! Check out the video versions of the iPhone 14 teardown and 14 Pro, too, to get the scoop on the latest phones, most of the vanilla 14 info applies to the Plus as wellTarih: s-4:26 -d14:2:2023x

How to Set up a Fire TV Cube GASREGULAR Menu Lifewire Tech for Humans Newsletter! Search Close GO Streaming > Streaming Devices How to Set up a Fire TV CubeControl your TV through your Cube and more! By Jeremy Laukkonen Jeremy Laukkonen Writer Shoreline Community College Jeremy Laukkonen is automotive and tech writer for numerous major trade publications

When not researching and testing computers, game consoles or smartphones, he stays up-to-date on the myriad complex systems that power battery electric vehicles

lifewire"s editorial guidelines Updated on January 21, 2022 Reviewed by Michael Barton Heine Jr Reviewed byMichael Barton Heine Jr Michael Heine is a CompTIA-certified writer, editor, and Network Engineer with 25+ years" experience working in the television, defense, ISP, telecommunications, and education industries

lifewire"s editorial guidelines Tweet Share Email Tweet Share Email Streaming Devices Fire TV Roku Chromecast Apple TV What to Know For a basic setup, just connect your Fire TV Cube and follow the on-screen prompts

This article explains how to set up a Fire TV Cube, including how to get your Fire TV Cube to control your TV and other devices able to be operated with an infrared (IR) remote

How to Set up a Fire TV Cube If you have a brand new Fire TV Cube, or you’ve recently reset your Fire TV Cube, then you will have to go through the setup process

Even if you use an Ethernet adapter and successfully connect to the Fire TV remote app on your phone, you won’t be able to initiate setup without a physical remote

Jeremy Laukkonen / Lifewire For the best results, place your Fire TV Cube at least 1-2 feet away from the nearest speaker, and in a position where it has an unimpeded line-of-sight to the television and any other devices you want to control via IR

If you selected simple Wi-Fi setup when you bought the Fire TV Cube, your information will already be on the device and you won"t have to do this step

Select Get Started and follow the on-screen prompts if you want some help selecting streaming apps, or No Thanks if you want to download them yourself later

How Do I Get My Fire TV Cube to Control My TV Your Fire TV Cube includes something called an IR blaster, which means you can use it to control most devices that use IR remotes

When you first set up your Fire TV Cube, you are presented with the option to set up your soundbar and other devices, which includes the option to control them through the IR blaster

How Does Amazon Fire TV Cube Connect to TV Amazon Fire TV and Fire Stick both use the dongle form factor, which means the streaming device and HDMI input are integrated together

Most televisions make use of an infrared remote control which uses pulses of invisible infrared light to send commands to turn it on, off, adjust the volume, and everything else

The Fire TV Cube includes an IR blaster capable of sending those same pulses of infrared light, and it also has the same information programmed into a universal remote

When you tell the Fire TV Cube what kind of television you have, it looks up the correct signals to control your kind of TV, and then it sends them through the IR blaster

Why Is My Fire TV Cube Not Working There are a lot of issues that can cause a Fire TV Cube to not work, from a corrupt update to a malfunctioning app, and even failed hardware

Here are some of the most common Fire TV Cube problems, and potential fixes: Trouble streaming or playing media: Try restarting your Fire TV Cube by unplugging it from power and plugging it back in

FAQ How do I set up a Fire TV Cube with an AV receiver? First, connect the AV receiver to the TV with an HDMI cable, then connect the Fire TV Cube to the AV receiver with another HDMI cable (be sure to use the 4K-enabled port on the AV receiver if you want 4K video)

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