anet a8 lcd panel quotation

3. Check if it"s the issue of mainboard or lcd screen. Press the "Reset" button on the mainboard, and see if the D1 lights up on the mainboard. If the D1 indicator doesn"t lights on, it"s the mainboard that broken and need to change.

If your Anet A8 screen shows white blocks after power up, reconnect all the cables. If still not work, click the "RESET" on the mainboard. If still doesn"t work, you need to change for a new motherboard.

Some possible Anet A8 3D printer LCD screen problems such as black or blue screen, screen squares or messy codes can happen when you’re printing with Anet A8 3D printer. Today we’ll learn how to fix these problems and make your A8 3D printer operate well.

Black LCD screen is a common problem in 3D printing. When powering on the Anet A8 3D printer, but the LCD screen doesn’t light up. There are four possible causes we should check.

If the D1 indicator blinks for a second and then blacks out, use a multimeter to measure out the voltage between the two yellow-circled points (see below picture). And if the voltage doesn’t read around 5 volts, please replace the Anet A8 motherboard with a new one.

Incorrect LCD screen cable connect can be also a cause that black screen happens. Thus, please check if LCD screen cables are correctly connected and reconnect them if needed.

Unstable cable connection caused by loose contact between the band cable and the LCD screen or dirty pins is another reason why your Anet A8 3D printer LCD screen blacks.

Blue screen is another problem we might face when using a 3D printer. In this circumstance, the LCD screen lights up in blue but without any words on it.

Screen squares appears, clean LCD screen cable pins and reconnect them, and then click Reset button on the motherboard. Restart the printer and if screen square appear again, replace the motherboard with a new one.

When messy codes appear on the LCD screen, the firmware of the motherboard may not comply with the LCD screen. Clean screen cable pins and click Reset button on the motherboard. Restart the printer and if messy codes appear again, replace the motherboard with right firmware.

Clean the LCD screen cable pins and loosen the LCD screen a little, and then click Reset button on the motherboard. If abnormal display happens again after the printer restarted, replace the LCD screen with a new one.

Anet A8 is a pretty famous DIY FDM 3D printer from a Chinese manufacturer Anet 3D. This machine became one of the first affordable printers on the market, quickly becoming a choice for many newcomers. Despite being released a long time ago, Anet A8 is still on the market surprisingly withstanding competition from newer machines. Is it worth purchasing though? Let’s find out.

When Anet A8 first appeared on the market, a lot of enthusiasts purchased it thanks to the affordable cost of the kit. However, the low machine price was achieved due to cutting corners here and there resulting in first versions not only requiring a lot of upgrades and attention but sometimes being downright unsafe. The main concerning factor at the time was the power cord issue causing a fire hazard, which is in combination low-quality motherboard and unstable printing bed turned some users off the Anet A8. Additionally, when purchasing the kit from Chinese suppliers and resellers, some people ended with a different model, A6, falsely advertised as A8.

The information in regards to all troubles with A8 is easy to find and access, though, people still purchase this kit. And many are able to get pretty decent prints with it as well. Anet A8, undoubtedly, requires love from the very first day of buying it. Starting from building the printer from scratch through a bit messy videos from the manufacturer to making upgrades to accommodate for a wobbly frame. In no way this is ready from the box printer.

But there are bright sides to Anet A8. The manufacturer was quick to make changes to the printer resolving some issues from the first versions. That includes upgrading to an aluminum plate under a heating bed (which was acrylic and prone to warping) with metal rails on two sides. Additionally, later orders included a different motherboard and had changes to power cords and supply (though still no “off” button). These changes went unannounced and have no special mark on the printer’s model, however, by default A8 machines now are shipped with these newer parts. And the price for Anet A8 kit dropped even lower.

One of the great advantages of A8 is being an open system, meaning that with a bit of work the printer can be adjusted to preferences or needs in terms of software and structure. And some of the first upgrades for better performance can actually be 3D printed on the A8 itself. Alternatively, some users purchase A8 as a source of parts, which they build a slightly different printer with, upgrading from light and prone to wobbling acrylic frame to a metal one.

This one is a bit advanced upgrade that will require you to purchase additional bits. However, due to A8 infamous power supply, you should consider monitoring the voltage and current.

Only one way to find out! I gladly accepted the challenge and awaited my A8 kit in the mail … Read on to find out what it is like in reality ….Breaking! Get the A8 for the discount price of $155.99 at Gearbest for a limited time!

Anet’s recommended retail price for the Anet A8 is around the $200 mark – impressive in itself – but, with regular discounts that appear, you can shave off more dollars bringing it lower. At the time of writing you can buy the Anet A8 at Gearbest for around $155.99! That means even in Canada you can get it for around $200 CAD shipped – that just blows me away.

The A8is a kit printer which requires assembly. I really enjoy building these kinds of things so it was the perfect choice for me. That and the price was right. After a year of ups and downs, I wanted to see if the mistakes I made were the fault of myself or the printer.

The A6 is the bigger brother/sister of the A8. A well-designed printer which are both modeled after the Prusa i3 printer.  The A6 cost about $50 more than the A8.

Well, because I have both I’m in a great position to tell you. Rumor has it that the A8 is being phased out. But that’s OK because the A6 will likely take its place in price. Speaking of price the A8 and 6 have dropped in price over the past year as they become more and more popular.

The A6 and 8 have roughly the same build volume while the A8 is a lot bigger in size. The A8 is 500 X 400 X 450 and the A6 being 480 X 400 X 400. This can be both a good and bad thing. While good you have more space on your desk or bench it’s also bad in that it leaves less space to work on. This is especially visible for things like leveling the bed which is a must for any printer without an auto level system. Luckily auto level is easy and cheap to implement.

Because the A8 uses two vertical pieces of Plexiglas with horizontal piece across the top and bottom there is a lot of play and vibrations. When the printer is moving so much in all axis’s it’s leaves what is called artifacts in your prints. They can be waves or ripples. This means you will have a lot more post print processing work to make them look nice.

The A6 has a better design for the X axis as it is horizontal and not vertical like the A8. I’m not sure if it makes a ton of difference but it sure feels more stable for the direct drive extruder. The direct drive means the motor which feeds the filament into the hotend is directly mounted onto the X carriage.

The throat AKA heat break is the threaded tube holding the hotend to the X carriage. On the A6 they have a 40mm throat as opposed to the 30mm one on the A8.

You could move the A8 one closer but the heater being closer to the motor is probably not a good idea. I’m going to order a bunch of 40mm ones so I can update the A8 as well as keep spares on hand because they are easy to break if you are not careful.

The A6 has a full graphic display with a turn knob for navigation while the A8 has a standard 4 line display and 5 flimsy buttons for navigation. The flimsy buttons can be less so with the button helper mod someone created and shared on the Thingivers website.

While both the A6 and A8 print very well with a little bit of effort on the users part the A6 prints better in my opinion. The reason for this is because the A6 is generally more stable out of the box. So after printing many items the prints are great on both printers. Although the A8 took longer to get there.

The A6 has more features than the A8 but the A8 is a lot more popular due to price therefore there are many mods that can overcome those short comings.

Whether you buy the A6 or A8 you can’t go wrong. Both printers are great value for the buck. While the company support is lacking there is a huge community willing to help beginners  with any sort of issues they may encounter.

I recommend the A6 over the A8 because of these differences but the A8 is a lot more popular and has a lot more printable upgrades then the A6. So if you want to tinker and have fun modding and money is very tight then get the A8. If you just want to print cool things and get down to business then get the A6.

In order to avoid buying a fake printer, or getting an Anet clone, be careful when you’re making your order. Here is a list of recommended stores for both printers :Buy Anet A6 | GearBest| Amazon|