lcd screen heat damage factory

LCDs used in outdoor situations have many concerns to deal with in addition to any that they might normally encounter during indoor use. Initially some concerns are weather related such as moisture in the air or extreme temperatures. Another concern that is often not understood or just not known about at all is sunlight damage.

Liquid crystal displays use organic components that are susceptible to UV (<400 nm) and IR (>750 nm). These bandwidths of radiation have an observable impact on the organic components in LCDs. Extended exposure has been known to cause a color shift and a washed out look to images displayed with the LCD.

In any case it is important to protect your display from the elements, especially if it is going to be exposed to harsh environments not intended by the manufacturer. One way to do this would be to utilize a Hot Mirror with a UV blocker. This will significantly reduce the amount of IR radiation between 750 nm and 1200 nm, as well as the UV radiation below 400 nm. If the LCD is going to be used outdoors for extended periods then an extended hot mirror may be necessary, which extends the bandwidth protection out to 1600 nm and will help reduce some of the longer wavelength IR damage.

Another concern with liquid crystal displays are their susceptibility to overheating due to excess IR radiation. The LCD is intended to operate within a certain range of temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions and outdoor use can lead to higher than normal temperatures. The display being exposed to excessive heat can cause the crystal to become isotropic and fail to perform properly. A hot mirror can help alleviate these concerns as well by reducing the amount of infrared radiation that heats the display.

LCD displays, especially older, mature display technologies such as segment and character LCDs have a very low fallout rate; so when we receive a request to return a large number of failures, we are concerned and want to solve the problem right away.

One percent failure is cause for alarm; after some investigation we found that the delaminating of LCD polarizers (or polarizers peeling away from the glass) was a result of excessive heat being applied to the display.

LCD displays, like microprocessors, are very sensitive to excessive heat and must be protected from exposure to high temperatures for long periods of time. In order to avoid the delaminating of LCD polarizers, the only time to expose the display to high heat is when it is being attached to the PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

When soldering a LCD, try to use hand soldering. If you do wave-solder, we recommend the display not be exposed to heat in excess of 300C (572 F) and then only for a few seconds.

There are two times when a display will face this extreme environment: manufacturing of the LCD and when being soldered to a PCB. Great care must be taken to avoid damage.

The entire LCD assembly is then "baked" to cure the adhesive with the temperature of the oven and the amount of time in the oven being critical. If the temperature is excessive, or the LCDs are left in too long, the polarizer will peel away from the glass.

All completed LCDs should be 100% visually inspected to identify the delaminating of LCD polarizer issue. If there is a problem, it should be pulled from the lot as defective. It should not reach the customers manufacturing location.

LCD Displays, like most electronic components are soldered to a PCB, either by wave or hand solder. When the temperature of the solder is excessive, or the heat source is kept in contact for an extended period of time, the polarizer will begin to peel away.

If you find that during your manufacturing process the LCD will be exposed to excessive heat, it is recommended to incorporate a heat shunt and divert the excessive heat away from the adhesive and polarizer.

LCD’s are manufactured with ROHS (Restriction of Certain Hazardous Substances) or non-RoHS (Lead based) solder with each type of solder having its own unique melting point.

Lead-based solder is mainly used in aviation, military and some medical industries with a melting temperature of 180C (356F). If requested, we are able to manufacture the LCD with non-RoHS solder.

On non-touch LCDs apply no pressure to the LCD surface and ensure no impact can be made by end users to it. There is no specification for pressure or impact on non-touch LCDs.

Avoid excessive and pointed force on the back of the chassis of the LCD which can damage the backlight structure and cause hot spots on the display or permanent damage to the unit

If the LCD glass breaks and the LCD liquid materials escape, avoid contact with bare skin. Wash exposed skin with soap and water immediately and dispose of the product according to local materials handling procedures.

The original Game Boy is a classic. Sure, it had no backlight, but there is something special about playing on that classic green screen. Unfortunately, some of these older systems are suffering a terrible fate — screen burn. Game Boy’s played best with lots of light — especially out in the sun. But that same sun did terrible things to the screen. A black splotch in the center of the LCD is the telltale sign of a burned Game Boy. You might think that screen replacement is the only option, but[The Retro Future] shows us how to repair this issue.

A reflective LCD is a layer cake made up of polarizers, two panes of glass, and a reflector. The burns often seen on Game Boy screens usually are in the polarizer and the optically clear glue which attaches the plastic polarizer to the glass. We’re guessing these burns happen when someone leaves their Game Boy out in the sun. Between the sun rays directly striking the top polarizer and the rays bounced back from the reflector at the rear of the screen, that poor polarizer doesn’t stand a chance.

Repairing the burn is a delicate operation, as one false move could crack the thin LCD glass. The first step is to carefully peel off the burned polarizer. This leaves a mess of dried glue, which can be scraped off or dissolved with alcohol. A new linear polarizer can then be placed on the front of the screen. [The Retro Future] chose not to glue the polarizer, but we’re betting some UV cure LOCA (Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive) from a cell phone screen protector would do the trick.

The liquid crystal material in an LCD has a transition temperature called the Nematic to Isotropic (N – I) point. This is similar to the transition temperature.  Beyond the N – I point, the liquid crystal is no longer in liquid crystal state. As a result, the LCD loses its display effect and an LCD blackout occurs.

In an LCD with TN (twisted nematic) technology, you can have an LCD blackout after the temperature rises beyond the N – I point. To users, this phenomenon happens when  “the display goes black”.

Just like the transition between ice and water, the N – I transition is also reversible with generally no permanent damage to the LCD.  However,  if the LCD goes through too many N – I transitions, there are some secondary effects that can cause a gradual degradation of the display performances.

For example a 5.0” LCD has an operating temperature range from 0 to 50˚C.  The factory measures its N – I transition temperature at 82.5 ˚C.  As a result, an LCD blackout occurs at about 80˚C and beyond.  This is 30˚C above the maximum recommended operating temperature, making this LCD quite suitable for outdoor applications.

The very high brightness backlight in a sunlight readable LCD module consumes a significant amount of power that can heat the LCD to a temperature higher than normal. In addition, the front surface of an LCD is a good sunlight absorber. Thus, even for a standard brightness LCD, its temperature can also rise significantly under the direct sunlight illumination.

The exact amount of LCD temperature rise due to these two factors depends on how the LCD module is mounted and also on the heat dissipation design. For example, if the LCD is mounted vertically, a significant portion of the VHB backlight heat will be dissipated into the air without heating up the LCD panel, and as a result, the LCD temperature rise will be low. On the other hand, if the LCD module is mounted horizontally, then almost all of the backlight heat rises to warm up the LCD panel. In addition, if a small fan or a heat sink is mounted onto the VHB backlight, the temperature rise of the LCD panel can be reduced significantly.

The module is a 10.4” unit operated at 1,500 nits screen luminance with 19 watts backlight power. LCD is tilted at a 25˚ angle from the vertical and is operated in still air (i.e., no forced air cooling). There are six thermal sensors to measure the temperature of the LCD panel at various locations.

At t = 0 second, the backlight is turned on. Within the first 15 minutes, the LCD temperature rises about 10˚C, and finally settles with a rise of 19.5˚C. However, if a small CPU fan is attached to the back of the VHB backlight, the temperature rise reduces to 8ºC.  A similar reduction of the LCD temperature can also be achieved by attaching a heat sink onto the backside of the VHB backlight.

The second major cause of LCD blackout is sunlight itself.  LCDs are suitable for outdoor uses because they have a very black front surface.  On the other hand, a black front surface can absorb nearly all of the incident sunlight and heat up the LCD. This effect severely increases the thermal management problem when the LCD is exposed to strong direct sunlight.

Fig. 2 shows a typical LCD temperature rise curve due to direct sunlight exposure. Again, the module is a 10.4” unit. During the test, the VHB backlight was not turned on. So the only heating source is the incident sunlight. On the day this test was conducted, the ambient air temperature was about 26ºC.

The sunlight illumination was about 10,300 foot candles incident onto the LCD at the normal direction. The large fluctuation of the air temperature shown in the graph was due to wind blowing onto the thermal sensor.

The LCD temperature curve indicates that with the absorption of the sunlight, the LCD temperature rises by more than 20˚C within the first 5 minutes. After about 30 minutes, the LCD temperature rises by more than 40˚C. This is more than twice the temperature rise caused by the VHB backlight heat.

The situation shown in Fig. 2 represents the worst case where very bright sunlight shines onto the LCD from a normal direction. If the incident angle of the sunlight is not perpendicular to the LCD, for example, at an angle from the normal direction, then the amount of sunlight power absorbed by the LCD reduces according to the Cosine law. That is:

Fig. 1. The temperature rise curve of a 10.4” LCD with VHB backlight Where P(0) is the power absorbed when the sunlight incident angle is 0º (at perpendicular direction). For example, at an incident angle of 45˚C, the amount of power absorbed by the LCD will be reduced to 70.7% of the amount if the sunlight hits the LCD at normal direction. Thus, the temperature rise will not be as severe as those shown in Fig. 2. However, for any outdoor application where the LCD will be subjected to direct sunshine, it is necessary to consider the extra heat due to sunlight absorption and provide additional cooling capability to avoid LCD overheating.

Now if we add the heating due to MS VHB backlight and the Sunlight together, the LCD temperature can increase by 40 + 19.5 = 59.5 ºC in the worse case! So, if the ambient temperature is 25 ºC, the LCD can reach about 85 ºC (i.e. 25 + 59.5) which is beyond the 82.5 ºC N – I transition point. Therefore, an LCD blackout occurs.

Reducing the LCD screen from 1,500 nits down to 1,000 nits cuts down the backlight power by 1/3, and as a result, reduces the LCD temperature by up to 6.5 ºC.  Therefore an LCD blackout is prevented.

Using a linear polarizer plate in front of the LCD. Align the polarization axis of this plate to match to the front polarizer of the LCD. This polarizer plate will cut down the amount of sunlight falling onto the LCD by nearly 60%. Therefore, the LCD temperature can be reduced by as much as 24 ºC. In the meantime, the LCD brightness will only be reduced by about 10%.

In the cases of B, Please make sure that the linear polarizer cover plate is thermally insulated from the LCD, or the heat generated on the cover place is removed by air flow. Otherwise, the sunlight heat generated on the linear polarizer plate is conducted to the LCD eventually and makes it in-effective to reduce the LCD temperature.

Please remember that the heat due to the sunlight is generated directly at the LCD front surface. So, it is most effective if the cooling is applied on the LCD front surface directly.

If the LCD is cooled by forced air circulation, please make sure the air is clean. Otherwise, as time goes by, dusts and carbon particles in the air will be deposited over the LCD surface.  This will ruin the clarity of the display.

Install the LCD in a position to have a large sunlight incident angle when the sunlight is strongest (for example in noon time during the summer session). A large sunlight incident angle will reduce the amount of sunlight power absorption according to the cosine

The above are some suggestions to keep the LCD cool and prevent an LCD blackout. However, it is absolutely necessary to test the thermal management designs in the real installations under the worst environment (i.e. on a summer day with very bright sunshine).

It is generally safe to operate the LCD beyond its specified temperature range (for example, at a temperature beyond 50 ºC for a 15” LCD) occasionally or for a short period of time.  That being said, we don’t recommend it.  Doing this can significantly shorten the LCD lifetime.

Might be normal for some, but it is not normal for all LCD displays. The LCD on the AC directly below the radio is not effected at all by heat. Between my wife and I we"ve owned 7 cars since moving to Arizona, plus I"ve changed the head units in 3 or 4 of those. None of those have had any kind of display problem at all. I"d say that makes this BMW unit somewhat unique.

There are two ways to properly perform this task on any OEM adhered lcd assembly. One way is very costly to setup and the other is not but it is slightly more time consuming.

Following these steps you will have a reconditioned lcd assembly in under 30 minutes using common household items and a few you will need to hit the harware store to obtain.

Do not listen to what was said earlier about using no heat. In order to properly loosen the adhesiv you NEED 100 degrees F (77 C) or you run the risk of destroying the polarizer layer.

While wearing leather gloves, wrap the ends of the wire around your index fingers on each hand enough times to give you a very sturdy grip. Keeping the assembly face down on the griddle apply slight pressure on the lcd with your thumbs while you gently work the wire between the glass and the digitizer/polarizer layers. You only want to get the wire in a few millimeters, just enough to get your playing card in behind it.

Take off the gloves, leave the wire in the glass and slide a playing card in right behind the wire. Make sure the card spans the ENTIRE width of the lcd and protrudes from both edges, left and right.

Have someone hold the hair dryer for you and point it at the glass, to the very bottom edge of the card. Moving together, slowly but steadily work the card down between the layers, separating the glue. Do not bend the card towards the lcd at this point or you may shatter it. Continue moving the card through as your friend follows the edge of the card down with the hair dryer. You will more than likely need to throw away the card and use another 3-4 times to get all the way through as the card will get mangled and lose its edge, becoming ineffective.

You will notice that your lcd is free of all the glass but is also covered in gooey gum. Much of this can be removed by simply grabbing some tightly and peeling it back with your fingers. If you run into any stubborn gum use the safe scrap plastic razors to remove it. Do not use any solvents to remove the gum unless you are proficient with a soldering iron and do not mind re applying the back light layer on the rear of the lcd.

Place your lcd face up in the LOCA mold. Apply a line of LOCA straight down the middle of the lcd from top to bottom. Excess will not hurt but it is messy, however you are better off using too much adhesive than not enough. Once the LOCA is applied, place ONLY the bottom edge of the glass into the mold but hold the top edge up and do not allow the glass to contact the glue yet. VERY SLOWLY begin to lower the top edge down to the lcd. ONLY move as fast as it takes for the glue to make it all the way to the left and right edges, it will like watching a horizon of glue rise to the top and outward to the sides.

Congratulation, you have rebuilt your lcd assembly. In our shop we often do have to perform this task in a similar fashion as the machines we use do not work when the glass is completely shattered, so this advice is based on my personal experience from owning one of only 3 facilities in the United States that is capable of this on a large scale.

Keep in mind that iPhone screens are so inexpensive comparatively speaking that there are probably many things you could be doing with your time other than attempting this. But if you are like me, and it always bothers you when someone tells you something cant be done, then enjoy. Remember, patience is the key. Frustration, shaky hands, being irritated or distracted often leads to a shattered lcd. If you are having trouble put it down and take a break for 5 minutes.

quick edit: I forgot about the Alcohol! using a q-tip NOT dripping in isopropyl alcohol gently clean excess glue form underneath your new glass. Unlike solvents, this only removes uncured LOCA and will not effect the bond you created. Be careful to use as little as possible or you may need to solder a new back light layer on the lcd, as even alcohol is not pure and contains some water which will stain the otherwise immaculate back light layer, giving you that bad whiteout splotchy look.

I order a brand-new LCD-Unit or Digitizer along with the adhesive tape (already cut out in the right dimensions) off a wholesaler, clean the frame with 99% alcohol and Q-tips or microfibre cloth and install the new screen onto the frame.

The use of liquid crystal displays (LCDs) in user interface assemblies is widespread across nearly all industries, locations, and operating environments. Over the last 20 years, the cost of LCD displays has significantly dropped, allowing for this technology to be incorporated into many of the everyday devices we rely on.

The odds are high you are reading this blog post on a laptop or tablet, and it’s likely the actual screen uses LCD technology to render the image onto a low-profile pane of glass. Reach into your pocket. Yes, that smartphone likely uses LCD technology for the screen. As you enter your car, does your dashboard come alive with a complex user interface? What about the menu at your favorite local drive-thru restaurant? These are some everyday examples of the widespread use of LCD technology.

But did you know that the U.S. military is using LCD displays to improve the ability of our warfighters to interact with their equipment? In hospitals around the world, lifesaving medical devices are monitored and controlled by an LCD touchscreen interface. Maritime GPS and navigation systems provide real-time location, heading, and speed information to captains while on the high seas. It’s clear that people’s lives depend on these devices operating in a range of environments.

As the use of LCDs continues to expand, and larger screen sizes become even less expensive, one inherent flaw of LCDs remains: LCD pixels behave poorly at low temperatures. For some applications, LCD displays will not operate whatsoever at low temperatures. This is important because for mil-aero applications, outdoor consumer products, automobiles, or anywhere the temperature is below freezing, the LCD crystal’s performance will begin to deteriorate. If the LCD display exhibits poor color viewing, sluggish resolution, or even worse, permanently damaged pixels, this will limit the ability to use LCD technologies in frigid environments. To address this, there are several design measures that can be explored to minimize the impact of low temperatures on LCDs.

Most LCD displays utilize pixels known as TFT (Thin-Film-Transistor) Color Liquid Crystals, which are the backbone to the billions of LCD screens in use today. Since the individual pixels utilize a fluid-like crystal material as the ambient temperature is reduced, this fluid will become more viscous compromising performance. For many LCD displays, temperatures below 0°C represent the point where performance degrades.

Have you tried to use your smartphone while skiing or ice fishing? What about those of you living in the northern latitudes - have you accidently left your phone in your car overnight where the temperatures drop well below freezing? You may have noticed a sluggish screen response, poor contrast with certain colors, or even worse permanent damage to your screen. While this is normal, it’s certainly a nuisance. As a design engineer, the goal is to select an LCD technology that offers the best performance at the desired temperature range. If your LCD display is required to operate at temperatures below freezing, review the manufacturer’s data sheets for both the operating and storage temperature ranges. Listed below are two different off-the-shelf LCD displays, each with different temperature ratings. It should be noted that there are limited options for off-the-shelf displays with resilience to extreme low temperatures.

For many military applications, in order to comply with the various mil standards a product must be rated for -30°C operational temperature and -51°C storage temperature. The question remains: how can you operate an LCD display at -30°C if the product is only rated for -20°C operating temperature? The answer is to use a heat source to raise the display temperature to an acceptable range. If there is an adjacent motor or another device that generates heat, this alone may be enough to warm the display. If not, a dedicated low-profile heater is an excellent option to consider.

Made of an etched layer of steel and enveloped in an electrically insulating material, a flat flexible polyimide heater is an excellent option where space and power are limited. These devices behave as resistive heaters and can operate off a wide range of voltages all the way up to 120V. These heaters can also function with both AC and DC power sources. Their heat output is typically characterized by watts per unit area and must be sized to the product specifications. These heaters can also be affixed with a pressure sensitive adhesive on the rear, allowing them to be “glued” to any surface. The flying leads off the heater can be further customized to support any type of custom interconnect. A full-service manufacturing partner like Epec can help develop a custom solution for any LCD application that requires a custom low-profile heater.

With no thermal mass to dissipate the heat, polyimide heaters can reach temperatures in excess of 100°C in less than a few minutes of operation. Incorporating a heater by itself is not enough to manage the low temperature effects on an LCD display. What if the heater is improperly sized and damages the LCD display? What happens if the heater remains on too long and damages other components in your system? Just like the thermostat in your home, it’s important to incorporate a real-temp temperature sensing feedback loop to control the on/off function of the heater.

The next step is to determine the number of temperature sensors and their approximate location on the display. It’s recommended that a minimum of two temperature sensors be used to control the heater. By using multiple sensors, this provides the circuit redundancy and allows for a weighted average of the temperature measurement to mitigate non-uniform heating. Depending on the temperature sensors location, and the thermal mass of the materials involved, the control loop can be optimized to properly control the on/off function of the heater.

Another important consideration when selecting a temperature sensor is how to mount the individual sensors onto the display. Most LCD displays are designed with a sheet metal backer that serves as an ideal surface to mount the temperature sensors. There are several types of thermally conductive epoxies that provide a robust and cost-effective way to affix the delicate items onto the display. Since there are several types of epoxies to choose from, it’s important to use a compound with the appropriate working life and cure time.

For example, if you are kitting 20 LCD displays and the working life of the thermal epoxy is 8 minutes, you may find yourself struggling to complete the project before the epoxy begins to harden.

Before building any type of prototype LCD heater assembly, it’s important to carefully study the heat transfer of the system. Heat will be generated by the flexible polyimide heater and then will transfer to the LCD display and other parts of the system. Although heat will radiate, convect, and be conducted away from the heater, the primary type of heat transfer will be through conduction. This is important because if your heater is touching a large heat sink (ex. aluminum chassis), this will impact the ability of the heater to warm your LCD display as heat will be drawn toward the heat sink.

Insulating materials, air gaps, or other means can be incorporated in the design to manage the way heat travels throughout your system on the way toward an eventual “steady state” condition. During development, prototypes can be built with numerous temperature sensors to map the heat transfer, allowing for the optimal placement of temperature sensors, an adequately sized heater, and a properly controlled feedback loop.

Before freezing the design (no pun intended) on any project that requires an LCD display to operate at low temperatures, it’s critical to perform low temperature first. This type of testing usually involves a thermal chamber, a way to operate the system, and a means to measure the temperature vs time. Most thermal chambers provide an access port or other means to snake wires into the chamber without compromising performance. This way, power can be supplied to the heater and display, while data can be captured from the temperature sensors.

The first objective of the low-temperature testing is to determine the actual effects of cold exposure on the LCD display itself. Does the LCD display function at cold? Are certain colors more impacted by the cold than others? How sluggish is the screen? Does the LCD display performance improve once the system is returned to ambient conditions? These are all significant and appropriate questions and nearly impossible to answer without actual testing.

As LCD displays continue to be a critical part of our society, their use will become even more widespread. Costs will continue to decrease with larger and larger screens being launched into production every year. This means there will be more applications that require their operation in extreme environments, including the low-temperature regions of the world. By incorporating design measures to mitigate the effects of cold on LCD displays, they can be used virtually anywhere. But this doesn’t come easy. Engineers must understand the design limitations and ways to address the overarching design challenges.

A full-service manufacturing partner like Epec offers a high-value solution to be able to design, develop, and manufacture systems that push the limits of off-the-shelf hardware like LCD displays. This fact helps lower the effective program cost and decreases the time to market for any high-risk development project.

A broken iPhone screen is no fun. After all, we use our phones for almost everything. If the touch response isn’t working, using your phone can be difficult, and it might not be possible to use it at all. This can make it hard to keep up with friends, plan your day, and even do your job.

There are several reasons your iPhone touchscreen could stop working. One of the most common reasons is physical damage. If your screen stopped working after it hit something, the damage is most likely physical.

Damage from excessive heat is actually quite common. Those who use a car vent clip for their iPhones are likely to experience heat damage if they turn the heat on. Many might not realize that the vent is even on since they don’t feel it, but the iPhone could get damaged in the process.

If your iPhone was exposed to salt water before it stopped working, then that was most likely the cause of the damage. Salt water is corrosive and, while your phone might have been fine right away, the damage could continue to progress for weeks after exposure.

The iPhone actually has two parts to its screen. The top part is the digitizer and the part underneath is the LCD screen. The digitizer is the touchscreen and the LCD screen displays the contents of your iPhone.

When your digitizer isn’t working, your iPhone touch response won’t work properly. Meaning you’ll see your screen, but you won’t be able to interact with it correctly. Sometimes, only part of your screen will work, or it will take extra pressure to tap something.

If your LCD screen is out, your iPhone won’t turn on at all and you won’t see anything on your screen. Alternatively, your screen will be blurry or fuzzy or will have some sort of visible damage.

If there’s a problem with your digitizer, there are a few fixes you can try before taking your iPhone to a repair shop. However, if it’s the LCD, you’ll need to start searching for repairs straight away.

Some users might have activated certain accessibility settings that can interfere with how the touchscreen works. The most common culprit is Touch Accommodations. If enabled, your iPhone screen will seem buggy and you’ll have a difficult time navigating the touchscreen.

If turning your iPhone off and on again doesn’t do anything, you’ll need to do a factory reset. Be sure to back up your iPhone before moving forward. If you can use your screen in some way, navigate to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Erase All Content and Settings.

If you can’t navigate here, you’ll need to plug your iPhone into a computer to perform a factory reset. After resetting, in rare cases, your touchscreen will work again.

If your phone is an older model or you’re on a budget, consider exploring other repair alternatives. Screen repair shops and kiosks are popular, and some of them do a great job for a fraction of the price. However, you might not get the best repair.

You can also attempt the repair yourself, but if you make a mistake you could do more damage. If you want to try it yourself, you can buy iPhone screens online and most of them include a DIY toolkit.

To do this, your phone screen will need to at least partially work. If so, try to make your way to Settings > Accessibility > Voice Control and turn that on.

If Siri’s enabled, you can enable Voice Control by saying “Hey Siri, turn on Voice Control.” Once enabled, you can access your iPhone without using the touchscreen.

If your iPhone stopped responding to touch after damage, heat, or salt water exposure, a repair is likely needed. However, a user might have activated Touch Accommodations, which could be the culprit. There are also rare cases where a software problem can cause the touchscreen to work and a factory reset could solve the problem.

No matter what happened to your iPhone screen, it’s important to get your device functional again. After all, we use our phone for everything nowadays, and not being able to use it can change how we engage in daily life.