3d printer lcd panel with buttons quotation

Needed a way to mount my new graphical LCD display on my reprap printer. I borrowed  a design in the reprap folder and widened the supports to suit and added the lower support structure. First version used 8m filament this one uses 5m and is much...

I found that the silver metal knob included with my Sunhokey Sirius printer didn"t work very well. It was slightly too long and if pushed all the way on, you couldn"t press it in to activate the menus so I created this one to replace it and it looks...

Other parts designed for my printers include: - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1959901 (GT2 belt clamp (Prusa Y-axis) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1937232 (Arduino Mega and RAMPS v1.4 case) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1905409 (Prusa...

Here you can find a border frame for LCD display. ...The frame help the support of display by 4 screws (not shown) installed from the back thru q.ty 4 holes into the frame.

The plastic thickness and hole spacing was designed so that you can re-use the existing LCD mounting screws.I only use my printer"s screen as a display and don"t use the buttons so be warned ahead of time that the stand wasn"t designed to take the...

My new case for 3D printer LCD :) Case is for ALU2020 profiles2x - M3x8 (alu profile)4x - M3x22(25) (front+rear)4x - M3 Nut23.6.2019 - updated shape, dimensions28.9.2019 - added screws, third rib to reinforce back plate, added hexagon hole for screws

Enclosure for LCD Full Graphic Smart Display Controller typically used with RAMPS 1.4 controller. I however use it for my Smoothieboard based 3D printer.

Hi Folks this is a small model of a 3D printer that you can print and display, the parts all slot together and the reel turns (you might need a bit of glue for the 3D part) Printed on an Up box at 0.10 layer with high infill and supports overall size...

Hi Folks this is a small model of a 3D printer that you can print and display, the parts all slot together and the reel turns (you might need a bit of glue for the 3D part) Printed on an Up box at 0.10 layer with high infill and supports overall size...

Hi Folks this is a small model of a 3D printer that you can print and display, the parts all slot together and the reel turns (you might need a bit of glue for the 3D part) Printed on an Up box at 0.10 layer with high infill and supports overall size...

This bracket is suitable for repairing a broken KT LCD display button assembly mount for the following models: KT-LCD2 KT-LCD3 KT-LCD6 KT-LCD8 KT-LCD10 This bracket is not suitable for repairing the main LCD display mount.

This is the standard Prusa LCD cover and knob modified to better fit most RepRapDiscount LCD 2004 Smart Display Controllers. The knob is bigger to compensate for the usually longer variable resistor shafts. ... The cover itself should engage the stop...

another mount for a full graphic lcd display for a reprap printer w/ power switch 1/2x3/4 may require some modification can mount it vertical or horizontal to mount it I used 4- m3 hammer t slop clips 4-m3x8mm screws 1/2 x 3/4 rocker switch

this is a bracket that fits on to your 3D printer that can hold an LCD screen in it. ...The screen just sets into the bracket with no screws or anything needed

First screw both sides on to 3D printer, but they must be still loose enough to move from side to side. Put the LCD screen in one side then slide the other side on to the other end of the screen. Then you can tighten down the screws in the back so it...

I"ve been working and helping people on the Cerambot Facebook group get their clay printer from Kickstarter called Cerambot up and running. I"m assembling one for someone and the default panel doesn"t have a button for the reset switch. And to make...

To ensure easy, accessible 3D printing, the MakerBot Replicator+ comes with the Smart Extruder+ and all the standard features of its predecessor. A few of those features include an LCD display, an on-board camera, as well as USB, Ethernet, and Wi-Fi connection.

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The Replicator+ is essentially the MakerBot refined. It is an instant-on machine with zero learning curve and the software and Thingiverse model collection means that you’ll always have stuff to print. The resolution is more acceptable and complex pieces come out beautifully detailed and immediately usable.”

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The Replicator+ is a serious piece of 3D printing kit. It produces good quality prints at an impressive speed, and the software that runs the printer is easy to use and can run multiple devices. That would make it a great pick for a school or college that teaches design or 3D modelling, as it could crank out 3D prints all day.”

3D Printingrefers to the additive manufacturing process that builds a physical object from a three-dimensional digital model. There are many different types of 3D printing machines used for both personal/hobbyist and industrial purposes.

Most entry-level desktop 3D printers are equipped with a heated extruder. The extruder takes the plastic filament, melts it, and lays down the material layer by layer to create a 3D object. This is 3D printing by the Fused deposition modeling method,

A 3D printer user interface or control software sends the code to the 3D printer and controls the settings of the printer such as the printing speed, flow, temperature, and the positions of the extruders on x, y, z, axes.

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Nexa3D’s print process uses a patented Lubricant Sublayer Photo-curing (LSPc) 3D printing engine. Different from DLP, where edge-to-edge performance can be compromised due to optical distortions, LSPc delivers a uniform, high power and distortion-free image to all areas of the build plate to ensure part-to-part accuracy and uniformity. LSPc, a type of masked stereolithography (mSLA) technology, is faster than stereolithography (SLA) and other mSLA technologies. Our self-lubricated, flexible membrane overcomes the delamination forces that accrue during any inverted, vat based printing process, thus enabling best-in-class print speeds.

If you’re reading this I assume you are interested in 3D printing miniatures and/or Wargames Terrain. Great, because just below we are going to take a look at the current best 3D printers for Miniatures & Models. There are a lot of options to choose from and everyone has a certain need to balance with their own budget. Check our guide and follow the steps to get the perfect printer for you. (Updated article from best 3d printer miniatures 2021 and now best 3d printer miniatures 2022)

Already have a resin 3D printer? miniatures and scale models are some of the most amazing things to create. It’s such a perfect combination of products for your hobby. But you can do much more with your 3D printer, Action Figures are another popular choice. If you love Warhammer specifically then this goes great when 3D printing parts for the Mcfarlane Warhammer Action Figures. Want another use for your 3D printer? Anime Figures, Scenery, Props, the list goes on. One of my favourite things to make with my 3d printer, lego figures. If you dream it, you can do it. One of the most popular uses in our hobby is with personalised games, such as d&d miniatures, 3D print is to D&D what butter is to bread.

If you aren’t too bothered about any reasoning and just want to see the list, check out this quick summary below of the best 3D printers for Miniatures & Models.

If this is your first printer, get the Elegoo Mars 3 pro. It’s a 4K printer with monochrome LCD, Elegoo has a great history of being the starting spot for printer enthusiasts. If you want something a bit bigger, the Saturn 2 8k has a bigger screen and a better resolution.

If you can stretch to a Saturn 2, definitely get that as the print quality output is nigh on par with something like the Sonic Mini 8k, just not quite – but can your eyes even tell?! The convenience of a far larger print bed is frequently worth more than the potential resolution difference!

If you want the best quality miniatures possible. You want the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k it’s results when dialled in are on par (I’d argue better in some cases) with plastic miniatures from Games Workshop. For miniatures though, our recommendation over this is the Anycubic Photon Ultra, which proves that DLP is the future of 3D printing technologies.

Despite a much lower printing resolution, the sharpness of DLP (providing results on par with the Mini 8k) coupled with Anycubic’s softer Craftsman Resin and Cheaper Price make this a much more balanced choice. It’s super quiet, low energy and the projector lasts 10x longer than an LCD. It’s super fast with very little in the way of fumes. and unlike the Mini 8k, There’s far less to go wrong and because you don;t get anywhere near as much outward light bleed as you do with LCD printers. dialing the exposure settings in for sharp prints is a breeze.

Everything else is in the middle of the road so read below what the benefits are (normally at the cost of print quality) to see if it’s the right printer for your needs.

Before we begin properly, let’s get this out of the way. Now is the perfect time to get a 3D printer, miniatures, d&d, Warhammer, proxies, unique sculpts and more are readily available at comparable quality to retail products from your favourite brands. This is perfect for people who want truly unique d&d miniatures, 3D print them in just a few short hours.

Yes In 2022 it’s finally possible to recreate the model quality you’ll see from some of your favourite manufacturers, using consumer-grade home 3D printers. do you play Warhammer? 3D printed miniatures will probably be a very appealing prospect. and yeah you can easily just print a whole army of proxy models to use in Warhammer Games. Also, you can still print a ton of stuff to enhance your existing force, giving some incredible and unique style to your models.

However, It’s not only illegal to steal other company’s Intellectual Property, but just finding the 3d printer miniatures models to create such a force is nigh-on impossible, When you want the style of your 3D printed parts to match eachother. Companies like Games Workshop are clamping down on the models which bear obvious similarities with their products. – though there is a growing number of companies out there providing, not only proxies, but also their own games. And this makes the idea of 3D printing for miniature gamers – highly attractive. You can make some incredibly decent 3D printed d&d miniatures or miniatures for various other games. Or even just to paint because they look awesome. 3d printing wargaming miniatures is so much fun!

If you want to know how to paint 3D printed miniatures? well, thankfully it’s exactly the same as any other miniature and unlike most retail resin sculpts. Once fully cleaned and cured, you shouldn’t need to do any further cleanup and a primer will stick great. 3dpreinter and miniature models go hand in hand.

3d printing miniature figurines are really fun and rewarding, it’s essentially a hobby in itself. When you don’t need to worry about stealing from someone else’s IP. You can get some incredible creations.

In fact, generic models are aplenty online, if you’re looking at 3d printing tabletop miniatures or you’re after 3d printed RPG miniatures. Then there are sites which will let you design a custom model and download the file to print it with. This also extends to 3d printing ww2 miniatures and 3d print Napoleonic miniatures too. From full models to components, this opens up a whole new world of possibilities to many modellers.

There are certainly a lot of things to learn when it comes to getting the best out of 3D prints, supporting the components, printing orientation, layer heights and exposure settings. Then once printed you do need to deal with trimming down the areas which supported the printed model. But when you dial your printer in for its environment. You’ll soon and rapidly be printing miniatures at a higher quality than even the likes of Games Workshop produce.

Whilst the process of “whole models printed at 28mm” isn’t quite at its pinnacle yet. Larger models and slightly lesser detailed 3d printer gaming miniatures are still very achievable, even with the existing printers, people are improving on their model printing results every day.

FauxHammer.com is dedicated to finding the best tools for your hobby. Start with our list of Essential Hobby Tools which will lead you to find the Top-10 tools for each category.

8k is further off the mark, with screens at only 7680px wide, itss called 8k, because it’s double the standard 4k. Wait until we see the 12k standard which is closer to 15,000 than 16,000.

So when you are looking at a 2k, 4k, 6k or even 8k printer. you also need to check the screen size. Because any 8k screen which is physically twice as large as an equivalent 4k screen has the exact same resolution for a model printed at the same size on each. Meaning print quality will generally be the same. The bigger printer in this example is only really better if you want to print larger things…

Creality has made a name for themselves by being amongst the first to launch consumer-grade 3D FDM printers, but when it comes to resin, they are still playing catch-up.

The Harlot-One is a solid addition to the range of available 3D printers with impressive resolution and light uniformity. This is a great entry-level Resin 3D printer.

You can still easily use this without issue, but when it comes to dialling in the settings to get the absolute best out of it, you’re a bit more on your own. But to be fair, dialling in settings for a particular resin is easier than most people think. No more than trying to get a stable temperature in your printing room and printing a small resolution tester at various settings so see which looks most crisp.

When it comes to entry-level resin printers, nothing currently beats the popularity of the Mars 2. When I first wrote this article in 2019. It was head to head for the Photon S vs the original Mars, and whilst my preference was for the Anycubic offering for its out-of-box ease of use. The price point for the Mars saw it gain the lead in the engaged community.

Once again, thanks to that community, people have not only dialled in the best curing settings to the millisecond. they have done this with such a variety of resins that is now super easy to get started with just a bit of community support (check [printer name] Facebook groups).

Several popular miniature bitz companies selling physical copies of their own designs have been doing so on the original mars. That’s just popular the printer has become.

And now we have a 4k Printer. Phrozen are an exceptionally well-respected brand but tends to be on a fewer-purchased list, simply because their products aren’t on the world’s most popular marketplace, Amazon.

But check out Phrozen’s own website for a whole host of incredible offerings including printers and their very, very good resin. Of all the manufacturer’s own brand resins, I generally rate Phrozen as the highest.

Even though this is slightly lower on the list than other 4k printers, doesn’t mean it’s necessarily a worse printer. Phrozen is currently the more respected brand and the only reason we have this item lower on the list than the others is because whilst it’s 4k, it’s is over a larger screen area. giving it an ever so slightly smaller YX resolution. And for miniatures, that resolution is paramount to detail.

Yeah sure, when it comes to miniatures we want to print the smaller things, but this is one of the largest resin printers available. Build area wise it rivals the Saturn by an inch, well technically 2 inches. With a 192mm x 120mm x 245mm (7.55″ x 4.72″ x 9.84″) build volume. it can make taller models. Trus me, 2″ can make the difference

Unfortunately once launched, the Photon suffered a myriad of problems. From Cracked build plates to failing LCD’s it did not go as smooth as it could. People have had issues with the antialiasing function too. Whilst Elegoo also had its share of launch issues and general “not up to personal expectation” complaints. By the time the Mono X came to market. The Saturn was already established and generally considered as working.

The mono screen really (as above) helps with these printers. as the normal UV backlight is removed, in it’s place are a grid of UV LED casting light to the curing plate. This allows a more uniform light to be cast across the surface. Allowing the edges to be more defined and speeding up layer cure time.

With a comparatively massive 192x120x200mm (7.55in4.72in7.87in) build area. this really brings 3D resin printing home. The entry-level models are great for a few parts, but whilst you initially buy a resin printer for miniatures and parts. You’ll soon want to throw out larger stuff. This will still give you something the size of a standard action figure.

The reason this is higher up the list than the photon is because of its popularity. Once again, like the Mars, because of the success of the launch and the lower price point. More people have these. more people have tested these with different resins. So if you are looking to skip past a lot of trial and error when it comes to dialling in your settings. there are a ton of people out there to help you.

This is the printer I want. this is the printer you want. This is a veritable wardrobe of goodness when it comes to 3D resin printing. When 3d printing, maximum size may be your consideration. This offers it.

Sure sure, we’re talking about the best printer for miniatures here, and this beast is designed to print some absolutely huge models. And what could be better than printing massive versions of your miniatures? Or printing a whole army in just a few hours on the build plate’s massive surface area!?

Allowing prints up to the maximum build volume of 33 x 18.5 x 40 cm. the things you can make with this are insane. The unit is powered by an 8k 15″ panel – that’s the size of a small TV! The build plate is so large it has relief holes drilled through it just so the resin can get back to the FEP in time to cure the next layer!

Sure, it’s on the more expensive side of printers shown here, but with ‘s sturdy case and incredible build quality. everything is neatly contained in this professional-level unit.

This is an entry-level printer from Anycubic, but as noted above it has some talent. it still has a 4k screen squashed into a small area and is therefore capable of comparable print quality to the other two printers in this category.

if you can see a difference in print quality between them, I’ll be shocked. If you really want to squeeze your budget and get an entry level printer. this is a solid contender

yep, another 4k printer, but this one is especially good for printing miniatures, as I said at the top of the article, 4k vs 4k, doesn’t really matter. It’s Pixels Per Inch (ppi) which is responsible for the X+Y- axis level of detail. And here, because the 4k screen’s printing area is only 6.1″. That’s a lot of resolution in a super small area. 722PPI in fact

The quality of prints you can get from this thing is just absolutely stunning. don’t take my word for it. Don’t even take Phrozen’s word for it. Check out what the community are making in the Phrozen 3D Facebook group

Also noted in his Reddit post is a link to this initial grid of Slicer Settings for this printer using different resins at standard 0.05mm layer heights.

The Elegoo Mars 3 Pro is possibly the best beginner 3D printer on the market right now. And the only reason it’s not number 1 on the list is that the below printers offer better quality miniatures and a few more ease-of-use features.

But the Mars 3 pro is a simple and solid printer which I’ve been having a ton of fun with lately despite owning (what are arguably) better printers. As for build volume, Here’s a quick look at a small force of 3D printed Halo Miniatures (32mm) I printed out in just 2 print sessions! One session for the vehicle and another for the Marines

To get the only negatives out of the way, there are a couple of annoying niggles I have with the Mars 3 pro but in all honesty, I can ignore them and I’m only aware of them because again, I have other printers which don’t have these quirks.

One, The printer’s cooling fan runs whenever the printer is on, rather than when it is printing. So even when I’m not printing, this thing is whirring away, but if anything, this is a handy reminder to turn it off. And Two, most printers nowadays use a Z sensor to automate the levelling process. the Mars 3 pro still requires a manual adjustment by moving the print bed up and down in 0.01mm increments to get the bed level. It’s not a problem just a lack of convenience that other modern printers have provided. on the other side of that coin though, not having this sensor, it’s one less point of failure.

Once you get the layer exposure time dialled in for your environment, just the first level of Antiailising is applied, along with Image blur, you can get super sharp miniatures with only minimal layer lines. And these are pretty much gone after the paint is applied.

On the advancement side though, this printer comes with a powered and refillable carbon filter to remove all those nasty smells and toxins from your printing environment. This works and it works really well. I have this printer in the same office that I’m typing from, and I can’t smell it at all.

The main benefit of the Mars 3 pro for printing miniatures is the huge community behind it. Elegoo has intelligently carved itself out a solid lead in the resin 3D printer space with several notable creators selling hobby parts back from the days of the original Mars.

Any issues with this printer or support you need dialling it in can be found in various online social forums such as Facebook Groups or Reddit Communities. Though, unlike their competitors, Elegoo Manage only one Elegoo Support Group, rather than having a dedicated community per printer, which would be better for us all.

Anycubic’s resin range is already wide and weird so this mid-point printer sits in an odd place. Check their website and you’ll find the M3 category and the Photon category. But within the Photon category, you’ll find all the M3 printers because they are called “Photon M3” So why bother splitting it at all?

Whilst the printer is quoted at 6k (not a real thing just halfway between 4k and 8k), it also has a larger build plate than the printers above. about 30% larger in fact.

If you are looking at the printers above, you could always stretch to this for the convenience of a larger build plate. Buf if you can stretch this far, consider stretching a little farther for the printers below which will give you a solid (8 µm) print quality improvement too.

There seems to be a pattern with 3D printers emerging. Phrozen is often first to come out with a printer range. in this case, it was a 10″ 8k printer. And they don’t rush them out, the build quality of these units is incredible. But then a few months later, the other brands come out with a similar printer of the same quality spec. but they normally add slightly more to the build volume and significantly reduce the price.

For a long time, this was a great little sweet spot for people looking for incredible quality and larger print areas. unfortunately, it’s hard to resist the printers below with their lower price and slightly taller build volume.

OOf the 10″ 8k printers, this model frequently comes in the cheapest. This is fantastic considering that all of these printers are capable of the same print-quality output. The 28.5 µm quoted XY pixel size is a testament to the quality of printers nowadays, the fact that manufacturers are claiming that half-micron in the specs is an arguably pointless metric when you’d be hard-pressed to see the difference between a full micron. or several in fact.

In Practical reality, I can’t see the difference in print quality between one of these and a 22 µm printer. The benefit here is that you have a 10″ LCD, almost a third again over a more standard-size entry-level printer. I’ve quickly found myself opting to print on this far more frequently than a higher-resolution printer, just for the convenience of a larger plate at the cost of a negligible quality difference.

What is Elegoo doing? Well, my guess would be – making sure they are cornering the market. I’ll be honest with you, this printer should have been on this list a lot sooner, but despite me keeping an eye on the announcements from 3D printing companies. I didn’t even know that the Saturn 8k was a thing.

Well, the main one that sticks out is the form factor, unlike the angular style of the Saturn 2, this is essentially similar in profile to the original Saturn, but with the Saturn 2’s 10″ 8k screen.

The difference with the internals is that the Saturn 8k uses a 28 Lamp UV light source, whereas the Saturn 2 has a 48 LED array and a fresnel lens. In theory this should provide us with more intense light and the fresnel lens should help to focus it and make it more uniform.

But if you want a printer “now” and are on a budget. yes, this will give you 95% of what a Saturn 2 gives you at a much lower price… The resulting print quality from each printer would be indistinguishable.

Once again a printer with nigh-on identical specs to those above. But where this is worth the extra money is in the name “Premium” because this really is a Premium printer. Not only is it the best that Anycubic offers, but it is also one of the best-built consumer-grade printers that I’ve ever used.

The Z-Rod alone is about 3-times bigger than the one on the Mighty 8k. The printer itself is huge, much larger than I expected for a 10″ printer and all of that appears to go into the build quality! And there’s more you get here too.

This printer also comes with the benefit of two internal USB-powered Carbon filters. Whilst I have gone nose-blind to resin smells, I had noticed my wife complaining far-less when this printer is running. Additionally, this comes with a screen protector pre-installed and is bubble-free. They also give you a spare too!

Finally, the FEP film has been swapped out for NFEP. which is much tougher than traditional FEP. This has many benefits. It’s made so that resin detaches easier and it should also last longer (assuming you don’t pierce it with stray cured spikes of resin). Beyond that, it is firmer which means your lift height can be lower with NFEP. Sorely needed for a build of this size. But any seasoned resin printer user will know, your total print time is affected more by lifting and retracting than cure time, having this will speed prints up greatly.

All of that extra is worth more than the bump in the price of this printer, but you won’t get noticeably better print quality from this versus any other 10″ 8K printer.

The (not so mini) Mini 8k is the present pinnacle of LCD quality. Whilst the screen has a weird aspect ratio (it’s far wider than it is tall) it is still the highest resolution screen available at this size.

The details this thing can produce are absolutely superb. and it’s here where the line between companies like Games Workshop and what you can print at home – truly start to blur. Yes, you can print better than forgeworld quality models with this thing.

Don’t believe me? well check these out, these are Space Marine Accessories printed on one of our Mini 8K printers. no Anitailising applied, these are as direct to the 3D file as you can get. And go-on. find a layer line? Try…

These parts are nigh on part with production quality models. I know a lot of people worry that printing will kill Games Workshop. That’s highly doubtful, but it has certainly changed the landscape for the quality of the miniatures – now very much in favour of 3D printed parts.

Whilst resin prints aren’t as convenient to work with as GW’s HIPS plastics. What this Mini 8k printer can produce, definitely provides better quality (read as “sharper and more accurate”) parts than what Forge World put out.

So, this is the second consumer-grade DLP printer, as direct sequel to the Photon Ultra. Whilst it feels a bit cheap with its mostly plastic components, including the resin vat. – it’s managed to get our number 1 pick!

Put simply, it’s just so much easier to use than an LCD printer. LCD printers can overexpose and bloat details on a print softening sharp edges. you need to dial them in to 0.1 or even 0.01 seconds per layer to get the perfect exposure time. But on DLP, because the light is so direct, you hardly get any outward light bleed. so once you have the minimum exposure time locked in, you can often go several seconds above that with no discernable impact to print detail.

From our own personal experience, we’ve been able to print higher-quality miniatures on this, far more easily than with the Phrozen 8k – (please note, results will vary from person to person. but my OOB experience was superb). That’s even more impressive when you learn that the resolution is only somewhere around 498ppi (51µm pixel size) (WHAAAAAATTTTT! That’s only 2k, we had those years ago!)

Yeah, that’s 4x less than the Mini 8k, and is actually the lowest XY resolution on this list, well, it shows initially. The huge difference between these and LCD printers is that DLP printers are super sharp when projecting light. Instead of projecting a whole chamber of light and having an LCD block it out (leaving some light bleed around the edges, these DLP models actually project light in the shape of the layer, and only that much light toward the resin. Very Precise.

But by adding 16x antialiasing and 2x Image blur in your slicer, you’ll pretty much make all of that disappear. But because DLP’s project direct light, you still get super-sharp details in the final result whereas an LCD panel will always have some outward light projection no matter what you do.

The added benefit to getting this printer for miniatures is that the included DLP Craftsman Resin is sharp but still quite soft and has some comfortable flex to it, whereas the resin included with the Mini 8k is quite firm and brittle. With that resin you only need to pick up a miniature the wrong way and parts can snap off. With this stuff, it should easily survive the odd drop or fall.

There are a lot of great reasons to use 3D printing in your miniature Hobby. You can incredibly detailed 3d printed custom miniatures. Albeit not quite to the same quality level as the extruded plastic models you will get from retail. But still god enough to exist as parts of your armies. They’re great for making a great multitude of terrain pieces. But the best thing is making custom components and conversion parts for existing models. Think Weapons, Emblems and armour pieces.

Another fun thing to do with 3D printers is to make yourself some hobby tools or supporting components. You can make brush or paint holders, storage for your models, water pots and mini holders. A fan favourite Miniature Painter Garfy, who is very active in the community and has written a ton of incredible guides over on Tale of Painters (one of my personal favourite blogs) has even started up his own 3d printed miniatures business, making some of the Best Miniature Painting Handles you can buy.

If you are wondering “can I sell 3d printed miniatures?” Well, many early adopters have made their investments back 100-fold by selling parts online. I was even considering opening a shop called “3d printed miniatures UK”, specifically as a 3d printing service UK miniatures. But unfortunately, I just don’t have the time.

It doesn’t take much to put 3d printed miniatures for sale on eBay or etsy or quickly create your own 3d printing miniatures service. 3d printed miniatures as a business is still a fully untapped goldmine. Tons of people are looking online for where to buy 3d printed miniatures. So if you are wondering “is 3d printing miniatures worth it?”. Yes, yes it is!

All in all though the process of 3d printing your own miniatures is really rewarding in its own right. Here we are on the first step toward the replicators from Star Trek. Whilst you can already 3D print various foods with these machines, none of them will be edible.

Can you 3d print Warhammer? Meaning generic off-brand miniatures to use in that particular game? Well yeah, (legalities of this is different beast we will go into below) But it’s not just Warhammer, 3D printing has opened up the Quality of Warhammer to so many other areas of this hobby. below we have listed just some of the different things you can look for and many may inspire your creative brain-juices. So have a look and see what takes your fancy.

A friend of mine recently asked me to 3D print some shoulder pads and heads for his Space Marines after seeing all of the custom parts I was using on my Mk VI Horus Heresy Models. He offered to pay me for them.

£0.60p That’s your 3d printing miniatures cost, A similar set of parts would be somewhere around £120 at £15 per set of 100 heads or shoulders. Nothing is wasted either? If you only want 5, print 5.

And this is mostly because the parts in this scenario were only available at a cost. Once you have your printer and resin, you can essentially 3d print miniatures free.

If you want to know how to 3d print rpg miniatures and the like, it really depends on the printer you get. If you what to know which 3D printer for miniatures you should get, this depends on what you want to print.

It’s worth noting that there are 2 main types of 3D printer tabletop miniatures. One of them uses a plastic filament which is fed through a nozzle (or multiple nozzles) These are Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers. The other uses a bath of liquid resin which is hardened when light is focussed within it, commonly known as resin printers. Even within these 2 main categories, there are some further subcategories.

Have a reel of plastic wire called PolyLactic Acid (PLA) or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS). often referred to as 3d printing miniatures “filament”. The latter of which is generally stronger, but requires more head to become usable. They are types of thermoplastic which means they can be heated to a temperature which makes them act like a liquid.

An FDM printer will feed this reel of plastic wire into a nozzle which heats it to its reformable temperature. The plastic is extruded through the printer’s nozzle and the print head is moved around. The printer extrudes the plastic layers. Once a layer of a model is complete, the head moved up and prints the next layer.

The quality of these prints is based on many factors, so you may want to check for your printer’s best filament for 3d printing miniatures – the type of plastic used. Also the size of the nozzle, the minimum layer height you can achieve and your patience. But generally (when compared to resin 3d printers below) the print quality is much lower but you can make much larger models. Once printed you’ll need to look up techniques on how to smooth 3d printed miniatures such as how to sand 3D printed miniatures or how to smooth 3D printed miniatures. It’s not a fun process in either case and often leads to softening of many details.

The printers are quite a different beast altogether when compared with FDM above. Instead of a reel of plastic wire, you create a bath of liquid resin. the resin hardens when UltraViolet (UV) Light is directed at it. here’s where we have the subcategories.

StereoLithography Apparatus(SLA) technology uses UV lasers focused on particular points causing the resin to harden. Unlike FDM printers where the print head moves. with Resin printers, the light sits below the resin bath. The print base itself is raised upwards as the laser is focused. You’ll see that with resin printers, they actually print the models upside down.

Digital Light Processing (DLP) is identical in the way it works except instead of lasers this uses a UV projector. This also prints in layers, however with SLA printers where the laser traces the surface of each layer (like some high-tech etch-a-sketch)). DLP will actually print a whole layer at the same time. This makes them faster than SLA printers. DLP printers have the advantage of using a projector to focus light. As you may know, light does not easily travel in a straight line. So where LCD printers with a large array of light shone through them causes outward fade which naturally softens edges on prints. DLP printers are capable of incredibly sharp results as the light projection is more direct. (these types of printers currently provide the sharpest results – but in some cases, maybe that’s too sharp). DLP printers also last much longer than LCD printers where the LCD itself is classed as a consumable component.

The difference really is that DLP printers will project the shape of each layer up at the resin, whereas LCD printers will project light and the screen blocks it out, leaving only the shape you want for each layer.

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) is the most common type of resin printer, though even within this category there are subcategories such as monochrome panels providing darker blacks and preventing light bleed through blacked-out areas. The newer printers also tend to come with a reflected UV array of lights rather than a UV lit backlight – All that is before we even start to consider printer resolution (below). AS stated above. We’ll go into the details below, but the general challenge with LCD over DLP is that between the (0.02mm – 0.05mm) LCD and the build plate, the light is not focussed, so whilst it cures upwards, it also slightly cures outwards, softening the edges of a print. but at super high resolutions, does this even matter? well, no not so much.

Generally, though, the most noticeable impact on quality is with the individual layers of the model. If these are too thick (deep/tall), you can see ridges on the individual layers which are printed. These are especially prominent on FDM printers and will show even after a model is primed. There are ways to smooth these out like manually sanding, which takes forever or using acetone-like vapours which smooths out the whole model, including any intentionally sharp edges. You could also coat FDM prints in liquid resin and then cure that with UV light.

3D printing is as much a skill as it is a new technology. If you want to get the best out of any of these printers, it’s unlikely you will get those results out of the box. There are a lot of settings to understand for 3D printing which makes or breaks a quality model.

In a similar vein to 2D printers, there are various options to consider. When you get a 2D printer (it’s rather standardised now) you get the option to print in various qualities. Black & White or Colour? are you printing documents or photographs? What quality do you want in that photograph? All of these options can use more or less ink, and print quicker or slower. Even the paper you use and your knowledge of working with that paper type can have a dramatic impact on the result.

It’s the same with 3D printing but more, much more. 3D printing doesn’t have many standards yet, it’s still in its infancy which should excite you with how far it can go. I was still using a Dot-Matrix printer less than 20 years ago. (because my school was cheap). But this means you need to fine-tune many of the intricate settings to get the results you want.

In regard to quality, there are 2 primary considerations. nozzle width, laser beam width or UV projection panel resolution will control the level of detail on the X & Y axes. (left/ right and back & forth, like a 2D printer) the precision of how incremental the print head of build place can be moved on the Z-axis (up & down) will control your vertical quality.

If you’re getting into 3D printing, please understand that high-quality comes from your time and understanding. Thankfully there are numerous resources out there and many people have already come up with some of the best settings you can use. A consideration we’ve taken when compiling the list below.

It’s not just 3D printing that has a large community, but each printer has its own sub-communities and miniature printing is a 3d printing sub-community in itself. So don’t worry, you’re not on your own in this and there are numerous resources that will accelerate your progress. With these guides, you will be printing good quality models very quickly.

Ok, when looking for the best resin for 3d printing miniatures, this is a topic in itself and we’d need to update it weekly as people test and tweak the various setting on their printers. But there’s also the question back to you…

You could mean the sharpest quality for 3D printing something close to a production master. you could mean the best value so you can 3D print a wargaming army at a low price. If you are 3D printing Warhammer Army, you may want something a bit more sturdy. so best may mean least brittle, even though you could loose some quality. Or more unique situations where you want to 3D print Space Marines with a clear or semi-opaque coloured resin so you can insert LED’s and create glowing effects.

Personally, I would always start with the resin that comes with the printers. Nowadays, many resins are created with specific use cases for a particular printer. The Anycubic Photon Ultra uses a special DLP resin with really sharp detail and nice flexibility to it. Whereas the Phrozen Mini 8k has their Aqua 8k resin, which clearly provides better detail than their 4k resin. Which has been the most popular all-around choice for a good couple of years.

There are a few options to get you started, but honestly, it varies a lot from printer to printer, start with whatever you get with it and join a Facebook or Discord Community for your printer and get direct advice. from there as to what is best for your specific needs.

So I know you have a burning question, where can I find Warhammer files to print? Well, if it’s not already clear 3D printing Warhammer minis is a very grey area. When I talk about “3D printing Warhammer” here, I’m going to be referring to compatible parts to be used on Warhammer Models that enhance the existing character and vehicle sculps GW produce, or Warhammer Proxy Models. More on this in a mo.

First off, when it comes to 3D printing, communities are your best friend. whatever printer you have or get. Go to Facebook and search for “your printer” and look in the group’s tab. Join that group. The posts there should inspire your initial creations with various things, but they can also help you with advice on settings and dialling in the

There are a ton of 3D printing studios out there, from individuals to larger companies like Titan-Forge. dozens if not hundreds of people have their own 3d printed miniatures Patreon where you can get specific things you want.

Let’s say someone sculpts a model of a celebrity and sells that sculpt. Should the subject of that sculpt not claim some royalties on the sale of their likeness? Could they sue you for profiting from selling their Likeness? , from what I have read online, In the US, most states have what is called a “Right of Publicity”, which means you cannot use their name or likeness without permission. Creating the model is not a violation of that right but showing or selling it is. But that’s only in some states and of course, that only caters for some US state-specific Laws. what about the rest? or even everywhere else in the world. You could live in one of these places where sharing or selling the model is a violation. But what if you are sharing it online. Where the company hosting the file operates in a location where this is not a violation?

Now onto Games Workshop, Warhammer and what is/isn’t IP theft? Again, from a legal standpoint, I don’t know, these are just my musings on the topic. so don’t take this as advice. if you want advice, start here with Games Workshop’s Intellectual Property Guidelines.

recasting and 3D printing – our products must not be illegally re-cast or scanned, nor should digital designs of our products be illegally produced and distributed.

Quite clean and yet vague at the same time. so you cannot recast (the process of taking one of their production pieces like a master and using a moulding process to recreate it), and you also can’t 3D scan one of your models. So all of you with newer phones and use them to scan your models. Naughty naughty. what if you 3d scan your room and it has Warhammer models in it? More grey area. If you 3D scan a model you have painted and store it on your phone, would GW care enough to take action. probably not, but for any company that owns copyright, if they are not seen to be taking action against infringements, they can lose that copyright.

So it’s quite clear now that GW claims to own (I use “claims to” I haven’t the knowledge or skill to verify), all of these things listed, including models within these franchises and all logos (which I believe clearly extends to chapter emblems).

Courtesy of Spikey Bitz, it was reported back in May 2022 (according to the article date) that Several 3D artists had purportedly received Cease and Desist notifications from Games Workshop. (see that article for more details) The example shown below is an “Elf Titan” modelled and released on MyMiniFactory by Duncan ‘Shadow’ Louca, compared to the £254 Revenant Titan with Pulsars from Forge World

As of the present time, this model has been taken down on MyMiniFactorty, despite Duncan making it freely available on that platform following the C&D, but i was easily able to find this model available without trying when doing very lazy research for this post. On the available platform (which I won’t share) that file, in parts or as a whole piece, has been downloaded a combined total of 272 times at the time of writing.

At the price of this model you’re looking at a total of £69.088 in potential claimed losses + legal fees (I think this is how it works, am I wrong?). this in spite of an objective view that Duncan’s 3D print file will produce a better quality (sharper)) model than what Forgeworld sell. If you want to take that risk as a 3D modeller, that’s on you, Personally, I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night. Especially when, in Duncan’s case, you have clearly shown your skill is far above and beyond blatant copies.

One of the most popular online repositories for 3D Warhammer Parts is Cults 3D, in 2022, Games Workshop (via their lawyers) requested takedown of over 2000 models on the cults 3D platform.

Ok, so it’s slightly more dissimilar, but it’s also clear to anyone that the Sons of Thor pack bears a striking similarity to the Space Wolf backpack. The Sons of Thor backpack is made specifically to fit on a Space Marine, and IMHO would not exist if Space Wolves Space Marines weren’t a thing. But then Sons of Anarchy would not exist without Hamlet. What is IP theft and what is art inspired by other art? And now we’re just arguing there’s nothing new under the sun.

Going back to Games Workshops Own words. I would infer that the Sons of Thor backpack fits within distinctive likenesses to part of a vehicle[s], creature[s], race[s], or character[s], which in turn are are part of the Warhammer 40,000, Space Marine, 40K & 40,000 claimed Trademarks.

The problem is we don’t know, none of us knows. and GW is probably happy with this being in the realm of the unknown because uncertainty is one of the best deterrents.

in General games workshop are ok with 3D printed parts (in some respect), so long as you have designed and printed them for yourself – as per their in-store play guidelines (see here) where it says;

Much like hand sculpted detail, if you’ve gone to the effort of designing and printing your own bespoke parts for your army, then these parts are indeed permitted at our events. Commercially available, third party 3D printed parts aren’t permitted though. Please bear in mind that if we do spot cast/printed parts on miniatures at our events, we will ask you to prove where they’re from, and may ask for them to be removed if there’s any doubt as to their origins.

resin cures under Uv light, this is how your printer works, but as you pull the build plate out and remove the model from it. you’ll see that it is still covered in uncured liquid resin. you need to perform 2 actions at this stage. you need to rinse off (and in the case of hollowed prints, out), any uncured liquid resin.

The best option is to get a dedicated cure station, notably one function of wash and cure stations which are available from most 3D printer manufacturers.

Welcome to the war of slicers. for those who are’t aware of what it takes to take a 3D model into a 3D printable file. here’s the summary, you need a slicer application. a computer program which prepares the 3D model. here you can add supports for your model and then export it as a series of contained image files with data advising your printer how long each layer should be exposed for, how far the print bed should lift up and how fast among various other settings.

Some printers will come with their own proprietary software, but in the case of the consumer-grade options below, you can mostly ignore these applications and go with one of the options above. Both of these programs have a fully usable set of free features, but they also have some premium features locked behind a paywall, thankfully unless you are a modeller or sell a ton of 3D printed parts for a living. These features are mostly unnecessary.

ChiTuBox or as it is often referred to ShiTuBox generally has better support, with numerous manufacturers directly supporting this slicer to the point of including it as the app you get with your printer. It’s light it’s fast and has all the features you would want. but the workflow is not as clear as it is with Lychee. It also just doesn’t operate well as a windows application. you know how you can do things with other apps where you drag the window to the top and the window fills the screen, this doesn’t even do that. Auto supports are ok, but there’s no method of checking the model for floating areas (islands) missing supports.

Personally, I used a mix, I’ll hollow a model using ChiTuBox and then export it as a hollowed STL (because Lychee won’t let you export a hollowed file). Then I’ll support it in Lychee and slice it. Though on my Photon Ultra I’ll actually use their own Photon Workshop application to slice because none of the other applications offers up the level of antialiasing that this printer is capable of.

The below list focuses on Print Quality Order for the 3d printing board game miniatures, but please note that this is based on the best possible quality which has been learned through trial and error using specific settings for each device. You are not likely to get the best possible print quality out of the box. Unless you want to pay for it and get a professional-grade printer. Those printers are “call for quote” and you’ll be working with an account manager. But you can get great results from the machines below when looking for the best printer or just searching for “what is a good 3d printer for miniatures”.

With that in mind, we aren’t looking at FDM printers for printing miniatures, it’s been clear for a long while that if you want to print miniatures, then resin is the way to go. FDM is fine for large items like terrain, props, helmet replicas and whilst. yeah, they can print miniatures. The quality at that scale is far from what you will want to be producing.

Here is the part of the article with some useful info that also plays a hand for us in ranking us up on google by answering many of the Frequently asked questions you see on your search results page. so, without further ado.

3D printing is its own hobby, and for miniature painters, it’s a hobby within a hobby. if you buy models just to paint, you have many more model options available to you with a 3D printer. The industry is moving in the direction of 3D print models first, so do not get left behind and get yourself a printer ASAP

For playing a specific game, ok yes, we are talking Warhammer here, you’ll be limited to proxies for the most part. getting your hands on copies of Warhammer sculpts is nigh on impossible and very very naughty to boot. But to print a whole army or a huge vehicle, you are talking pence on the dollar in price difference once you have made the outlay for the printer itself.

If you are happy with the limitations GW will put on you for having a 3D army, go for it. You can;t go playing in official tournaments, but in a friendly game between mates at a FLGS, who’s to stop you?

For accessories, I think this is the sweet spot. having made a force of Samurai marines. I’d say that since kitting out a single 10-man squad can cost over £100 or the local equivalent. heck, scenic bases or base toppers alone make the investment in an entry-level printer a no-brainer. You can easily get this in less than half an army. Better yet you can print and sell parts to your mates and easily recoup what you lost, if you have enough friends you could even end up making a profit. I have…

Well, what do you mean? Ask yourself the same question about a different brand such as 3d printed x wing miniatures? Do you want to 3D print an army and play Warhammer with it? Well, there’s been multiple stories of people in the armed forces playing on deployments with rocks or standees. proxy armies exist as do compatible parts so long as they do not contain any GW specific iconography.

As for the legality, really, ask a lawyer, 3D printing is so new and rife with IP theft. There’s no legal president to reference here. but beyond Warhammer, look at all the people creating and selling sculptures for marvel properties or busts of famous celebrities. I don’t think any of that is legally ok. We just haven’t seen enough people be publicly sued for it yet. but it’ll come.

But if it’s a shoulder pad or head or armour accessory and contains no GW IP, like with the many accessory companies that have existed over the years like Kromlech and others. I do not believe this is illegal. And morally I feel this is where 3D printing truly enhances the miniatures hobby.

No, Games Workshop is much more than a warehouse that pumps out models for profit. They have a huge history and rich lore surrounding all of their IP. Along with various other tools that have become almost necessary staples in the miniature painting industry. They have books Videogames and several ever-evolving Game-Systems, they have new games coming out a decent pace too. 3D printing is changing the landscape, but it will not kill GW.

What is more likely to kill GW is a failure to connect with the next generation of modellers from an early age. I grew up with Games Workshop. As a teen it was my version of a creche, where my mum would dump me as she went off to do her shopping. Now as an adult I’m reliving those teenage years with disposable income. But when I look in Warhammer store today, the current generation of kids are nowhere to be found.

Resin, hands down. if you are printing miniatures, you want details and FDM will not cut it. for larger models like props sure go FDM, within the miniatures hobbyFDM is only good for terrain, and even then it will have many grainy print lines.

As above, yes. but the detail is miles away from what you would get from a Resin printer. if you don’t mind thick layer lines and soft details. sure, they will sit on your tables as proxies, but will likely cost just as much as a resin equivalent.

You can design, print and sell miniatures to be used in D&D without any problem, just like with any game system. You could even licence and print other people’s creations if they allow you to do so. But if someone has made a near enough one-to-one copy of another company’s model. No, you can’t sell that, it’s IP theft.

Yes, very easily too. And it’s a very profitable venture in the present market. so long as you have created or licenced something which does not infringe on another IP. Stick it up on Etsy or eBay and sell them until your heart’s content. I paid back my first 3D printer by just selling parts to mates alone! (still at decent mate’s rates) Nowadays it still pays for most of my resin.

let me change the wording here to be clear. You can very easily and even more cheaply 3D print an army to use when playing Warhammer and Warhammer 40k. But they must be proxies (similar style models) that do not infringe on GW’s IP. Also, you will not be allowed to use it in competitions or tournaments.

Hmmm, “how long is a piece of string?” and “how long does it take to 3d print a miniature?” are similar questions. It depends on the Printer, the size of the miniature and layer height. A 32mm miniature at a 0.05mm layer height can take an hour or two on the fastest printers.

A single print, maximising the z-height of a printer, and printed down at 0.02mm scale can take 2 or 3 days. I printed some accessories for a Warhammer Rhino and it took 5 x 13 hour print sessions for all the parts to complete. Larger models have taken over a week to print all the components on in multiple print sessions.

It’s important to decide what your budget is and how much effort you want to put in. With FDM printers the effort is put in upfront in practising to get the right settings for fine layers on your printer. you may think just print everything in the thinnest layer but the issue is that when you print the next layer, ambient heat will reactivate the layer beneath causing it to warp. FDM is best for terrain over anything else. It’s just about how much you are willing to spend.

With resin, you are looking at more time cleaning up 3d printed miniatures afterwards, but this is the only way to get the smoothest and sharpest quality prints.

Self-appointed Editor in chief of FauxHammer.com - But I need to thank the team for existing and therefore enabling me to give myself role - without them, I"m just a nerd with a computer and a plastic addiction.

This display is made to connect to a DMX ledstripcontroller. because a display and buttons uses a lot of pins I decided to use a TM1637 module and extend the standard module with 4 buttons and 3 leds. the entire module is controlled by only two data lines (and power). In the link to the documentation you will find all documentation, schematic, gerber files, Bill of materials and a complete 3d model. This model is an upgrade of the first version and is a lot smaller and uses SMD components.

The first versions of this projects were made with PCBs from PCBWays and they turned out great. PCBs were completed in 2 days and arrived a week later.Thank you!

So what is a ViKi anyway? Viki stands for visual kinetic control interface. This control interface comes with a 3" LCD screen so that you can manage your projects without being connected to your computer. The LCD screen contains white pixels on a black background. ViKi also has a micro SD card slot and rotary encoder with push switch. The controller connects via SPI.

With the ViKi you can tell if your printer hotend or bed is heating or cooling based on the color of the ring light (blue indicates cooling while red indicates heating).

ViKi uses U8Glib library for Arduino and is natively supported in Smoothieware. This controller works with Smoothieware, Marlin and Repetier (coming). ViKi has been tested on Azteeg X3, X3 PRO, X5 mini, Rambo, RAMPS, and will work with most current controller boards.

Please note that not all obje