bubbles in lcd screen for sale

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The big bubble is adjacent to the edge and might indicate air leaking in, but not the small bubbles. An autoclave will not help with the small bubbles, and the big bubble will need re-gluing, which is rather complicated

Pressing will not help, as at least one upper layer glued to the LCD is hard. Repairing is a time-consuming job that requires separating and replacing however many layers are glued to the LCD screen, and damage can easily happen.

Most repairmen will prefer just replacing the screen, as the above can take hours and a mistake may be fatal to the LCD. You might be able to find a cheap replacement screen on Alibaba or similar.

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I was able to plug this old LCD into a TV, which I think it"s 720p only because it worked with the 1366x768, and when changed to 1920 the image was worse. At 1366 all icons filled the screen, so a better TV would be suitable for Windows 10. The image doesn"t present any sign of bubbles, so it"s OK.

I am not seeing a 3rd possibility, because it"s highly unlikely the monitor would just create these cloud spots all of sudden after 2 hardware changes. If this is what happened then it"s a huge coincidence.

● The working principle of bubble removing is using a high pressure (about 5~6 bar) to remove the air bubbles,to make the OM-A2 work, you have to connect it with an air compressor (supply more tha 5 bar pressure).

The most hot sale and cheap cost separator Machine for assistant as heating machine and separator machine, ideal for repair shop, it"s deserve to own one to use as separator or any other.

1. There are some risk of damaging touch screen or LCD. When you are a new beginer, you"d better practise your skill with some damaged LCD assembly. After mastering the skill, you can refurbish the LCD Asembly. Please practise your skill patiently and carefully. The success rate depend on your skill.

Cheap , Buy Quality Directly from China Suppliers:Big Size Autoclave Bubble Removing Machine LCD Air Bubble Remover Equipment LCD Screen Repair Air Bubble Remove Machine Enjoy ✓…

In Union Repair store, we grade our iPhone screen into 5 different types of quality on the basis of different material assembled. The following is the full details of each condition.

It is with widely accept major complaint replacements for original parts, which keeps a right balance between price and quality. It has sustainable supplying chain in China, and all the components of the screen are copy quality. Typically, the LCD screen is from several different factories, the most popular 4 on China market are JK,AUO, LongTeng, and ShenChao. By comparing the brightness and sharpness of the LCD, we found JK is the best quality among them and the second best is AUO. No doubt, the other components on the screen are all copy.

It is better than After Market Basic cause it comes with original laminated flexes and the LCD panel. Other components like touch panel, frame(hot pressed), backlight, polarize lens, and OCA is all copy from different factories.

The core components (like LCD and flexes) is 100% original pulled from used iPhone while the frame and touch panel is copy. The touch panel and frame come together with cold pressed glue and assembled together with the LCD by the capable third-party factory which keeps its excellent quality.

No doubt, it is tear down from used iPhone with all the parts 100% original and working perfectly just like an original new screen, it has whatever the original new screen has. The only complaint about this quality is that some of the displays are with 1 or 2 scratches but still be welcome by our critical customers who are requiring good quality.

It is 100% original from Apple-authorized factories like Toshiba, Sharp, and LG. We get this kind of screen from the first level dealer. The touch panel of the screen is oleophobic coated which prevents from fingerprints when using your iPhone. And starting with iPhone 7g, the backlight from different authorized factories comes with a different code. Backlight from Sharp has the code begins with DKH/CON, from Toshiba begins with C11/F7C/FZQ, from LG begins with DTP/C3F.

M-Triangel CP-02A is a large-capacity, high-efficiency, low-power Autoclave bubble removal machine , its Autoclave container 17cm deep and 16cm diameter, suitable for all sizes of cell phones screen repair, support multiple screens at a time to remove bubbles.

Larmor is a GGS company, and makes the Fujifilm X-E2"s (also fits XT100, X100F & X100T) LCD protector out of rigid optical glass material which achieves more than 90% of transmittance (higher than plastic LCD screen protectors), thus making the LCD screen clear.

Fits directly on your LCD screen, bubbles free, unlike plastic protector which always gives you bubbles between the protector and the screen. Can be removed and reinstall, without leaving ugly residual on your LCD screen.

The Lenovo Thinkpad X61 tablet has a “12.1-in Super Wide Angle SXGA+ TFT display with 1400 x 1050 resolution” option. The display panel is the BOE-Hydis HV121P01-101, an AFFS display with glass bonded to the LCD panel. The predecessor used in the X60 tablet (HV121P01-100) uses the same LCD panel but did not bond the cover glass to the LCD.

The display is prone to developing bubbles in the adhesive layer in between the LCD and glass. There’s a long thread at Lenovo forums (Air Bubble In LCD Screen X61 Tablet) about the bubbles and the difficulty of getting it replaced or repaired.

This picture shows a new bubble forming inside an existing bubble. A new bubble would emerge every few days. The buttons below the display were also sticky from the leaked adhesive.

The bezel was sticky. This is the adhesive from the LCD, not the double-sided tape melting. It was gooey only along the bottom edge where the LCD adhesive was leaking.

To see what’s going on inside, the bezel was removed. There was a lot of leaked adhesive, especially along the bottom-left edge. It appeared as though the adhesive was being wicked out of the bottom edge of the LCD by adhering to and flowing along the plastic bezel piece, gumming up the buttons. Air bubbles entered to replace the loss of adhesive.

The most obvious repair method is to apply heat and pressure to squeeze out the air bubbles, with enough heat to redistribute the adhesive evenly across the entire display (resulting in a slightly thinner adhesive layer). That didn’t work: I successfully squeezed out the air bubbles, but the heated adhesive did not behave like a Newtonion fluid (non-zero shear stress at rest), so it tended to flow back to its original position, refusing to be evenly redistributed.

Some adhesive was lost during the repair attempt, there was continuing leakage out the bottom, and the adhesive refused to flow, so even more air was drawn in to replace the adhesive deficit along the bottom edge. This resulted in even more bubbles after the repair attempt.

This is the current state, after a second repair attempt using higher temperatures, also failing in the same way. I’m hoping I can get some fresh adhesive (of the same kind) to fill in the (big) bubble, since it seems hopeless to try to redistribute the existing adhesive.

The X61 tablet uses a Hydis HV121P01-101 screen, the same as those found in a Motion Computing LE1700 tablet. Motion Computing advertises later Hydis displays using DuPont Vertak bonding, so there’s a good chance the older Hydis HV121P01-101 also uses a DuPont adhesive (Vertak DBA1000/2000 or a predecessor?).

The Vertak adhesives have low elastic and shear modulus and strength, which might contribute to its tendency to flow out the side of the display. Qualitatively, the gooey adhesive I see in my display agrees with the properties listed in the datasheet.

I think I can make a decent repair of the bubbles by filling in the bubbles with fresh adhesive (ideally of the same kind), curing it, and then sealing the edge of the display with silicone to prevent future adhesive leaks. I don’t have a clean room, so I’m not able to completely replace the adhesive without getting dust into the display.