bayite dc 6.5 100v 0 100a lcd display quotation

Thanks @powerscol for the tip on the 4/0 wire. You"re probably right about the fuse. Finding a 600 amp 12 volt is a bit of a challenge--they"re all rated at 32. At the worst, I might have try the 500, since it would take drawing about 7000 watts at 14V to blow it. I"ll keep looking for a 12V 600amp fuse. I didn"t see it called out in the inverter manual. But one question still I have is how to size the shunt for a battery monitor.Any supplier of inverters and solar stores will have what you need https://www.continuousresources.com/ https://invertersrus.com/

On edit - Is it this one? https://www.giandel.com.au/product/g...s-4000qar-12v/ It supposedly comes with battery cables. I would contact them to find out what fuse to use. I"m surprised they don"t post their user or install manuals. Makes me wonder.

Second edit - Found the user manual and I am not thrilled. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1j4dKFa7lL.pdf Page 4 (2. connect to battery) indicates they are using 1/0 wire and want a 400 amp fuse for a 4000W inverter. That must be some magical wire. Its 1M long. An whoever wrote the manual, English is not one of their strong points as its tough to read and understand. Here is an example

Notice: (1) The table above is only for your reference. In practice, the thick wire can be replaced by two thin parallel wires if only the total cross-sectional area of the wire meets the requirements.(2) In high current, the input DC wire may produce voltage drop, therefore, the operatingvoltage should be subject to the value on the terminals. If the voltage drop is too large, youcan increase the cross-sectional area or reduce the length of the lead.(3) Connect cathode wire of the battery to the cathode terminal (black) on the rear panel of inverter and then connect the anode wire of the battery to the anode terminal (red) on the inverter, and fix them

Whether you’re out in the field or in an office with a little downtime, this digital multimeter will provide consistent accuracy and dependable readings every time – powered by the battery alone! Easily charge your device to 100% using its USB port; no need for expensive cables or clunky adapters.

Stay protected with an overload alarm function and know for sure whether the reading was successful because the display includes backlight illumination so no matter how dark it gets while working late at night – this multimeter will have all of your info read clearly!

The display unit pivots so it is perfect for reading even where there are obstructions. This unique design offers many benefits over other comparable products on the market.

The Bluetooth connectivity allows you to monitor the battery status from any location while also displaying amp-hours for long-term usage, especially when traveling off the grid with no external power source. Not only does it provide an accurate state of battery display but it supports a companion app as well as provides data logging by the hour or even minute increments which helps time charge optimization seamlessly.

The Victron BMV-712 is a heavy-duty RV battery monitor and offers extreme functionality. It has Bluetooth connectivity and displays amp-hours, which will come in handy on long travels where there is no power source for the near future. Along with that, it features a substantial battery shunt to provide precise readings without any worries or confusion.

One look at the large-screen LCD with a full sight 180°view will be all it takes to convince you this multifunction battery meter is perfect for any size project. With two modes including normal display mode and dormant mode, this tool will give you peace of mind in any situation.

The MORNING GROUP DC multifunction battery monitor is a compact and affordable device that power users use in conjunction with a solar panel. It shows the voltage of every single battery compartment in the system at all times for any location on your property.

With a large screen displaying various information on one device, this monitor provides all the data needed for continuous battery performance optimization. Great for people with small or medium-sized systems who need accurate readings without overspending on expensive monitors!

A common issue with battery monitors is thatthey only display voltage while the best ones provide users with additional data about power capacity. This allows them to get an idea of how much reserves are left on their batteries that can make all the difference when it comes time for recharging or even determining if you need a new one altogether.

The best RV battery monitor will need to be able to give you accurate readings of your batteries. This means thatit should have an accuracy score of at least +/- 0.25 volts, which is the standard for most products in this category when used under good conditions.

However, if you are looking for something advanced or high-end, thenaccuracy becomes much more important as it would affect how much information about the state of your batteries gets displayedby the device itself over time (more accurate devices tend to provide better information with fewer errors).

Checking the output of your RV’s battery or batteries is one way to ensure that they are being properly tested. Although this may be true, it is critical to have an RV battery monitor with a wide current range reading,such as 0 to 100 amps or 0 to 500 amps, in order to verify that different batteries have varied current outputs.

A typical RV battery monitor has a current range of 0 to 20 amps, which is not large enough for testing two separate 12-volt batteries. In fact,a pair of “deep cycle” or marine batteries may have up to a 100-amp outputwhen being charged by an engine-driven alternator. If you test the voltage at the batteries with your RV’s battery monitor and get a reading from each, this will indicate that one is providing more power than the other is.

As was the case with the current range,a typical RV battery monitor may read from 0 to 15 volts. This is enough for most recreational vehicles and will provide accurate readings of 12-volt batteries under normal conditions.

To test your two separate deep cycle or marine batteries that are wired together in parallel, youneed an RV battery monitor capable of displaying voltage levels within this same rangeas well as being able to go higher (e.g., 13 or 14 volts). However, when it comes to testing automotive or marine batteries that are not attached to your RV or campervan, this is where voltage range becomes important.

Every RV battery monitormust have a display that can easily be read from a distance. This is important for those who rely on their recreational vehicle’s batteries to power appliances and other equipment while away from the dock or shoreline.The best type of displays are large, LED-lit numberswhich allow you to quickly determine if something isn’t quite right with your deep cycle batteries’ voltage levels.

If you don’t want to spend hours behind the wheel squinting at a small screen, be sure thatany battery monitor you consider has an easy-to-read (larger) display because smaller screens might make it difficult for drivers who need glasseswhile driving down the road to read all the information displayed on them.

Another key aspect of a quality battery shunt is thatit reads accurately in both 12-volt DC as well as 120-volt AC power levelswhich means you can also determine exactly what kind of energy resources are available on any given day based on everything from solar panels (12 volts), electrical hookup capabilities (120 volts), etc.

Another aspect worth mentioning is that manyquality RV battery monitor screens tend to be relatively small in size. This might make it difficult to read all the information displayed on them especially if you need glasses while driving down the road.

For example, if you decide on one of the best RV battery monitor models which install directly into your vehicle’s 12-volt DC power socket by plugging it in and flipping a switch.

Those monitors that don’t have any additional components required during the installation process will be perfect if all you truly require is an auxiliary energy resource display just for recreational vehicles since these types won’t provide accurate readings about the status of your accessory batteries when you’re not on the road.

Finally, some units havemore than one display screenso you can see what’s going on with both batteries simultaneously instead of flipping back and forth between two monitors everywhere you go. This is especially helpful if each battery has its own set of cables because it means you don’t have to worry about carrying a bulky pair of clamps that would be difficult to fit into small spaces.

You may want these devices programmed so that even if your house isn’t fully charged yet, they’llautomatically shut downafter 10 minutes of non-stop running until more juice is available (which shouldn’t take much longer because they’re designed to hold a charge for over 12 hours).

For example, you can make it so that your devices will only show an “X” on the screen if they detect more than 50% of their battery life has been used up (instead of something like 25%) which makes it easier to accurately track this information without having to constantly go back and forth between two or three different displays.

You couldcontact customer service about upgrading your productso it can tell you whenever this happens instead which would be especially useful for anyone who lives alone and uses their motorhome as a full-time residence. These updates usually require downloading from manufacturer websites along with instructions from tech support personnel who may have to remotely access your device via internet connection depending upon how complicated the upgrade is.

For instance, if you buy a cheap model that doesn’t have many programming capabilities but only costs around$40 to $50, it may not be worth the money considering how much more expensive models with similar features are usually priced at (with an average cost of between $100 and up).

You’ll need tomount the display unit on a flat surface using screws, glue or double-sided tapedepending upon how permanent you want it to be. Some products also come withsuction cupsthat can attach directly to glass which is great for anyone who wants their RV battery monitor in plain sight at all times so they don’t forget about recharging batteries after every use.

For battery life – hours left to run based on percent capacity and average voltage over past 7 days or 30 cycles which is useful if you want to know how many hours of energy it still has in reserve before you need to recharge/replace it;

The best way of handling things would be using an inverterconnected to the main AC shore power supply with two different circuits between the shore power cord and generator port (one circuit runs through inverter allowing the use of both 110-volt outlets at once without causing overload);

A battery monitor is a device that displays important information regarding your RV’s batteries. This includes the voltage of each one, their overall charge level, and any changes in these readings over time. Some are also able to detect problems with individual cells or cables, while others can display data from more than just the main house/starting battery bank.

By knowing how much energy your batteries have stored at all times, whether they’re being charged by shore power or an onboard generator, you’ll get a better idea of when to use appliances that cause large drains on them (i.e. the microwave). This is because you won’t be draining your batteries beyond 50% or 60%.

These simple systems typically cost less than $100but aren’t very accurate either way – they don’t tell you much about exactly where things stand when it comes to charging status. And most won’t even switch between powering devices or recharging your RV batteries automatically; it’s up to you to remember which should be used at all times!

The second kind of monitor has multiple indicator lights along with an LCD display that show voltage levels for all your batteriesif they’re charging or discharging, whether you need to disconnect from shore power soon, and the status of any loads that are currently being powered.

These can cost anywhere between $200-500but have a lot more accuracy than basic light monitors. Some even come with remote sensors so you don’t have to bend down under your RV’s hood every time things change!

While fridge power consumption will vary a lot with temperature, it is still fairly linear. For a given delta-T (inside fridge to outside fridge), the power used will double for a doubling of the detlta-T. S0 a 40F D-T will use roughly twice the power as a 20F D-T. Once you get near the compressors limits it gets less linear though. In a closed vehicle temps can exceed 60F above ambient in direct sun. So on a 100F day, a close up vehicle can break 160F inside. At that temp most fridge units won"t be able to keep the setpoint temp.

I have a 120L fridge with secop/danfoss bd-50 compressor. It has a bit of extra insulation on the sides/top. On a 100F day it will use about 80AH max. That is with a bit of open/close action, freezing a tray of ice cubes, and having the van closed up for 3-4 hours while we are out hiking. This unit does not have the best insulation though. That 80-AH is about a 65% duty cycle. This unit has a freezer, so my fridge section may be fine, but it takes a while to get the freezer down to 10F.

250 ring packs. Each pack has 2 batteries and needs to be processed. I have only opened one of the two boxes from battery hookup. I have not cut any of them out.