dapu lcd display manual made in china

I wrote this manual because I couldn"t find any useful information on the internet that would help me diagnose a wierd problem I had on my Mid City, so I dismantled the bike, drew up a circuit diagram, and worked out how everything worked and communicated. This is the documentation of what I found.

The reason they call the PCB in the motor a controller, rather than "the computer", is because there are two microprocessor units (MPUs) in the eBike. The display is also a computer, and it does all the calculations for the odometer and speedometer, displays the PAS setting and error codes, stores the odometer record, and controls the display panel. It is in constant communication with the MPU in the controller, which is tasked with performing diagnostics on startup and with managing the motor thereafter. (If a problem develops during operation, it will cease powering the motor and communicate an error code to the display.)

The motor and display in the MidCity are DAPU products. My display is the DAPU DPLCD-P, but the button pad shown in the picture on their website is different to mine. The MD250 is the only midmotor that DAPU currently have on their website. http://www.dapumotors.com/id-26.html?t=en-us Torque sensor and motor controller are integrated within the motor body. There have been multiple generations of DAPU midmotors, seemingly all named MD250, 250 being the power rating of the motor (250W). Apparently there is or has been available an exclusive and custom build 750W version of the motor as well, used only in the US. I suspect, from info I found on the internet, that the first generation MD250 had an external controller, but current versions of the MD250 have an internal controller.

Some web pages say that DAPU is Japanese. Dapu might have been Japanese once, but their webpage http://www.dapumotors.com/Guestbook/index.html?t=en-us gives a Chinese address. One webpage I found says that DAPU is a Chinese manufacturer under Japanese management. Most reviewers on the internet praise the DAPU products highly.

All the devices tested by the diagnostics are connected to the controller, therefore it makes sense to run the diagnostics on the controller MPU, not on the display MPU. This is hard to prove, but if you get an error code which you know is a furphy (ie, bogus), then I"d replace the controller, not the display.

⦁1 x 2-core from the Hall sensor on the frame adjacent to the rear wheel. As the magnet on the spoke passes the Hall sensor, a pulse is sent to the controller, which passes it on to the display MPU.

It is possible that Smartmotion have a customised version of the controller, with firmware written to their specifications, but far more likely is that they are using the standard DAPU firmware, but have configured the configurable parameters of the firmware to suit their particular specifications, in much the same way that different wheelchair manufacturers configure the parameters of the joystick controller on their wheelchairs to suit their particular requirements using software purchased from the manufacturer of the joystick. I wish I could get my hands on a copy of the software used to configure the (DAPU) controller of the Smartmotion - there"s one setting that really irks me.

If one did get one"s hands on the configuration software for a DAPU controller, then the means of connecting it to the Smartmotion is to unplug the Display cable from the 4 to 1 Y cable, and connect a special USB cable in place of the 4 to 1 Y cable, then plug the USB connector into a laptop and run the software. The DAPU display is a MPU itself, that communicates to the controller via 3 wire bidirectional serial comms. There are 5 wires in the multicore from the Display; one is VCC+, one is GND, and the other three are for bidirectional serial comms. Most likely SCLK (serial clock), SDIO (serial data in/ out, ie, bidirectional on one wire), and SS_n (slave select, because the chips used are designed to handle multiple slaves (Display) from one master (Controller). I haven"t bothered working out which wires are VCC & GND, but that would be easy to do. I also haven"t bothered measuring what VCC is, but again that would be easy to do. Probably the easiest way to identify which wire is which in the serial comms is to open up the Display and trace the connectors back to the serial IO chip, and check the pinouts of that chip on manufacturer"s specifications. There are cables on the market that have been designed to perform this task for a BAFANG controller, but I have absolutely no idea whether the pinouts on a BAFANG are identical to those on a DAPU. And anyway, the cable is useless unless you also have the software.

⦁1 x 3 core (red, black, white) leading into the frame of the bike. This lead goes to the controller, so clearly the controller receives instruction from the display to turn on the lights and passes on the instruction to this PCB. Red and black will be power to the PCB and the lights, and white carries the data signal to the PCB to instruct it whether to turn the lights on or off.

⦁1 x 5 core from the Display. There"ll be +VCC, GND, and three others handling bidirectional serial comms between the display MPU and the controller MPU.

This matches the 8 core harness if we assume VCC to all devices. Display has 5 wires; throttle uses VCC and GND that is also supplied to the Display, so throttle adds only 1 wire, to make 6. If the 2 x brakes are wired as OR devices, which is feasible but unlikely, then only 7 of the 8 wires in the 8 core are used. (Application of the brakes creates a connection in the reed relay in the brake sensor, so the two brake sensors could be wired in parallel, thus providing an OR logic connection for the brakes to the controller, but I"m pretty sure that the OR logic connection is done digitally at the controller and that the 2 x brakes connect separately to the controller. So we have 5 wires for the display, 1 more for the throttle, and two more for the brakes, making 8 total, which is the number of pins at the connector for the main harness.

⦁Inputs from switches go direct to the display by a separate cable - there are two cables at the display: the in cable from the switches, and the cable leading to the harness that leads to the controller

⦁Error codes. All the inputs needed for diagnostics are connected to the controller, not the display, so it makes sense to run the diagnostics on the controller and report the results to the display MPU.

The display almost certainly calculates battery voltage from it"s own VCC+ve and GND, independent of the controller"s assessment of voltage, and thus the display is quite capable of displaying the correct battery voltage whilst simultaneously displaying an error code 9 (high voltage), not knowing that it is displaying inconsistent data.

Processing of odometer and speed info is all done in the display MPU (microprocessor unit) from one single input: the pulses generated by the Hall sensor on the rear wheel. The distance travelled is stored in the memory of the display, not in the memory of the controller, because you can replace the controller without affecting the stored memory of distance travelled.

Communications between the display and the controller has to be serial and bidirectional; there aren"t enough wires coming out of the display for comms to be anything else. There are five wires to the display.

The three wires unaccounted for by VCC and GND have to be bidirectional serial comms - there aren"t enough wires to be anything else. Most likely they are SCLK (serial clock), SDIO (serial data in/ out, ie, bidirectional on one wire), and SS_n (slave select). The Slave Select line is probably used for handshaking. In the case of the ebike, there is only one slave: the display, but the chips used are capable of communicating between master and multiple slaves. It"s half-duplex synchronous communications, bidirectional over the SDIO line. Typically it"s a fixed length packet, so that each end knows if they get the full message. Web page https://www.digikey.com/eewiki/pages/vi ... d=27754638 proves 3 wire bidirectional comms components exist; whether this is precisely how the job is done on the Smartmotion is unknown, but it has to be 3 wire bidirectional comms between the display and the controller on the DAPU system because there aren"t enough wires for it to be anything else.

The display panel is not designed to be removable and is fairly large. It could get scratched when folded or parked near other bikes, it does offer adjustable angle and you could always put a sock over it to keep it from getting damaged during transport. I also miss the USB charging port and range estimate menus of past models, the 5-bar battery infographic just isn’t as precise.

I kind of wish the display panel had a USB charging port to maintain a phone or other portable electronic accessory. I didn’t see any USB ports on the battery pack either. Remember that in order to turn on the lights for this ebike, you need to tap the power button, there isn’t a dedicated button.

Driving this electric bike is a Dapu MD350 mid-motor. It offers roughly 350 to 500 watts of power and up to 80 Newton meters of torque, according to the company website. As you pedal along, the motor controller listens for movement as well as pedal force to ramp up smoothly. It’s a natural feeling, very quiet motor system that weighs a bit more than average at ~11 lbs. Mid-motors utilize the same drivetrain as the rider does when pedaling, so shifting gears lower or higher reduces work and makes it more effective and efficient. It’s still up to you to shift however, and this motor controller doesn’t come with shift detection… but that’s not an issue here, because the NuVinci CVT hub won’t mash and skip the way that a sprocket and derailleur might. I’ve already talked a bit about the belt drive system, but want to further call out how Gates has designed a center-track system to keep it from slipping off. Velec did not opt for a complete belt cover, but there was an alloy chainring guard on the demo bike I tested. Interestingly, this part is not shown on their stock photo (the first picture on white above). This guard should further secure the belt and keep your pant leg and dress ends clean and snag-free. Because the motor casing and battery box are black, they do stand out a bit visually on the red and titanium colorways, but those two will probably generate more attention from motorists and potentially keep you safer than the satin black. Aside from efficiency, mid-motors also keep weight low and centered on the frame and free up the rear wheel for different drivetrain options (like the NuVinci N380 here), they tend to make wheel maintenance easier, and reduce frame flex. Velec went above and beyond to strengthen this ebike by adding gusset plating near the top and bottom sections of downtube as well as secondary chain stay tubing at the rear. Can you see how there are three tubes in the back vs. just two on a standard bicycle? This should strengthen the frame and improve stability while riding while also fortifying the rear-rack mounting position… and that’s important considering the optional rack mount battery upgrade!

Operating the Velec R48M is intuitive, but there are extra steps and more control over drive modes than most of the other electric bicycles I’ve reviewed in this category. To start, you charge and mount the battery pack… and yes, you can charge the pack while mounted to the bike by plugging in on the left side of the downtube. I love that Velec positioned the charging port high and clear of the left crank arm. And, on that note, it’s nice that they also positioned the rear kickstand clear of the left crank arm. So once the battery is in place, you hold the power button on the control pad, mounted near the left grip. The monochrome display blinks to life fairly quickly with speed, assist level, battery charge level, and trip stats. Since Canadada and the US use different units of measurement for speed, I want to point out that you can switch from MPH to KM/H and back by Holding the + and – keys on the control pad. Holding the – key alone will enter into a password menu where I’m guessing that you could adjust the speed and wheel size settings, or perform diagnostics. Holding the Set button will clear your trip meter. The control pad is fairly easy to reach and I appreciate the Set key, but wish that there was a way to operate the lights from here as well. It would be nice if you could remove the display unit to reduce damage when parking outside or at a public rack, especially since it’s a bit large. The extra toggle button on the left (not shown in my photos, and possibly not always included) allow you to switch from the main downtube battery to the optional rear rack battery. The extra red toggle button on the right allows you to turn the twist throttle on and off. This feature is wonderful to have but not always included because it can block trigger shifters. Imagine that you’re getting on or off the bike but you haven’t turned the throttle off, it could be twisted accidentally and send the bike forward. Again, nice to have this! and only really possible here because of the left grip NuVinci shifter choice. It’s neat to see how Velec paid close attention to these details. In closing, I mentioned that the battery pack has an integrated full-sized USB port near the top edge, where the flip-up handle is, and that’s nice to have if you’re navigating with a smartphone or adding extra lights etc. but it would be nice if the display panel also had a USB port built in, so the wire wouldn’t have to go as far. You could always purchase a right angle interface like this to keep the wire pointed forward.

The Dapu mid motor listens for pedal cadence and torque, making it very responsive, it doesn’t offer shift detection in this case but that’s not an issue with the NuVinci internally geared hub

The integrated headlight is mounted to the arch of the suspension and may bounce as you navigate through bumpy terrain vs. if it were mounted to the head tube, stem, or handlebar… the backlight runs on two AA batteries and takes more effort to switch on and remember to switch off after each ride, I was surprised that the headlight also still has a manual button press vs. using the main control pad/display to operate

The spring suspension fork is a little basic and does not include lockout so there can be some bobbing and dive when braking especially, mechanical disc brakes are okay but hydraulic tend to require less effort and offer more adjustability, the rubberized plastic pedals won’t cut your shins but aren’t as stiff or grippy as alloy, the display works fine but isn’t removable and doesn’t have a USB charging port built-in… thankfully, the battery pack does have a full sized USB so you could run a cable up from there

Tuning does not push a motor to its limits. Rather, it is the clamping that limits the engine’s “natural” capabilities. Basically, tuning is about adjusting the electric assist system so that the engine runs “normally”. For that, there are several processes :Tuning occurs by “deceiving” the electronic controllerby providing it with distorted data. After the modification, the engine will deliver the power of assistance beyond 25 km/h. The controller will record a different speed level, a number that does not exceed the regulatory threshold. The displayed speed is no longer correct but is half the actual speed.

Let’s add that these two manual methods will not work on every assistance (especially on Bosch controllers produced after 2011 that integrate an anti-tuning software), so we recommend the most conventional and reliable solution: the tuning kit.

I tuned my Giant Ride Control E-Bike and took some pictures to show you the main steps. The longest is to remove the screws to access the cables. The connection is then ultra-easy. I did it with a Speed Up kit. The technical characteristics of the kit are not optimal because the display is divided by 2 and the tuning is permanent. Let’s say it’s perfect for the tutorial, because the internal installations are all very strongly similar:Presentation of my engine

Dapu motors is a Japanese motor company which has factory in China. It was one of the best e-bike motor manufacturer which was famous for high power motors. But unfortunately this gradually changed and there are more powerful hub motors produced by other companies. On top of that their hub motors and torque sensors start to create lots of problems. I receive lots of messages by Evelo or Pedego owners who complain about the motors in the last 2 years.

As I know Dapu doesn’t sell motor kits but I see some companies make kits from Dapu motor system and sell them online. I advice you to buy Dapu 48V 500w hub motor or more powerful on your kit.

I am not big fan of crankset comes with motors. As motor manufacturers try to cut the corner and supply with cheaper crankset. If you buying your system for mtb purposes I advice you to check if your e-bike uses default crankset or use another crankset with dapu motor. This is same for Bafang and shengyi too. The default crankset is at best a mediocre crankset.

According to many e-bikes I tried and tested I can easily say Dapu is way better than Bafang if we are talking purely about the motor. Bafang has certain advantages too such as in Europe they have a good after sales service. Besides that for mid-drive motors I like the complete package of Bafang as they come with neat looking display compared to outdated old looking display of Dapu. I guess that is why every e-bike system who uses Dapu motors choose 3rd party displays on their electric bikes.

Pedego electric bikes are equipped with an LCD console that monitors your pedal assist level, speed, odometer, trip distance, riding time, and battery energy level. If you have purchased your electric bicycle from a Pedego dealer or via the official Pedego website, your ebike will arrive with all the correct LCD console settings, such as km/hr settings and a maximum motor speed of 32 km/hr. In this article, we list the different numbers and symbols, what they mean, and how to change certain settings on your electric bike.

It’s easy to turn the LCD console on. First, make sure the battery is fully inserted and the on/off switch is in the on or [I] position. Then press the power button (top button) on the four button selector located near the left grip on the handlebars. To turn off the LCD screen completely, press and hold the power button for three seconds. The console will also automatically turn off after five minutes of bike inactivity.

To turn on the screen’s backlight as well as the integrated front and rear lights on your Pedego, once the LCD screen is on, simply press the power button and the lights will come on. Press it once again to turn them off. (Pressing the power button for longer than three seconds will turn the entire LCD unit off.)

There are other functions your LCD console can perform. By pressing and holding the “SET” button for a couple of seconds, located just below the power button, you’ll enter the programming menus. Here are the explanations for each screen and how they function.

After you’ve powered on the LCD screen, hold the “SET” button for two seconds. The screen will become backlit and you can release the button. You’ll see the number 1 in the bottom left corner. You’ll also see the trip odometer figure and here is where you can reset it back to zero by simply pressing the minus [-] button. This is useful to determine how long a particular ride is or how much battery power is used over a particular distance. To reset the trip odometer to zero, hold “SET” again for two seconds to exit the setup interface.

This should have been set when you purchased the bike. After powering on the LCD screen, hold the “SET” button for two seconds. The screen will become backlit (release the button at this point) and you’ll see the number 1 in the bottom left corner. Press the set button twice, and you’ll see a number 3 in the bottom left corner. If your electric bike has 28-inch tires, the number on this screen will read 28. You can toggle between all the sizes by pressing the minus [-] button. Hold “SET” again for two seconds to exit the setup interface.

Again, if your electric bike was purchased in Canada, the LCD console will already be set to kilometres per hour. To change between MPH and KPH, power on the LCD screen and hold the “SET” button for two seconds. The screen will become backlit (release the button at this point) and you’ll see the number 1 in the bottom left corner. Press the set button three times and you’ll see a number 4 in the bottom left corner. To toggle between MPH and KPH, press the plus [+] or minus [-] button. You can also use this function to determine whether you’re eligible to receive Mile Marker pins. (Check about this with your local Pedego store!) Hold “SET” again for two seconds to exit the setup interface.

To engage the pedal assist limiter, or to turn it off, power on the LCD screen and hold the “SET” button for two seconds. The screen will become backlit (release the button at this point). Press the set button four times, and you’ll see a number 5 in the bottom left corner. When the pedal assist limiter is set to “OFF,” you’ll have a reduced top speed through all pedal assist modes. Toggle between “OFF” and “ON” by pressing the plus [+] or minus [-] buttons. Hold “SET” again for two seconds to exit the setup interface.

To engage the throttle limiter, or to turn it off, power on the LCD screen and hold the “SET” button for two seconds. The screen will become backlit (release the button at this point). Press the set button five times, and you’ll see a number 6 in the bottom left corner. When the throttle limiter is set to “OFF,” you’ll have a regulated throttle output to about walking speed. Toggle between “OFF” and “ON” by pressing the plus [+] or minus [-] buttons. Hold “SET” again for two seconds to exit the setup interface.

The LCD console also has a USB port embedded in the underside of the LCD console that allows you to charge your mobile devices. To activate the USB charger, press the plus [+] button and the SET button at the same time for 2 seconds. This will turn on the USB charging capability. Hold the same buttons again for 2 seconds to turn this feature off.