gameboy advance lcd screen factory

(Displays properly and there are no dead pixels. ) This screen is for the original Game Boy Advance system and is NOT for the Game Boy Advance SP system. safe package shipping date: 1 to 3 working days.

The Game Boy Advance SPGBA SP), released in Japan on February 14, 2003,sixth-generation handheld game console developed, released, and marketed by Nintendo that served as an upgraded version of the original Game Boy Advance. The "SP" in the name stands for "Special".Game Boy Advance family before the Game Boy Micro, which was released in September 2005. The Game Boy Advance line was followed by the Nintendo DS family, starting with the release of the original Nintendo DS in November 2004.

In 2005, Nintendo released an improved version of the Game Boy Advance SP in North America, featuring a brighter backlit screen instead of the previous version"s frontlit screen. This GBA SP was Nintendo"s first internationally-released handheld system to feature an integrated backlight. (However, there had already been a backlit system years earlier with the Japan-only Game Boy Light, which was essentially a Game Boy Pocket with an electroluminescent backlit display.) The new model can be distinguished by the following features:

In 2006, the AGS-101 backlit model also saw a very limited release in Europe.Game Boy Advance-compatible Nintendo DS one year prior. The European version was released in "Surf Blue"

Unlike the North American release, the European box does not feature any prominent text to distinguish the backlit models from the older frontlit models. In addition, only the "Surf Blue" color was unique to the AGS-101, the other two colors "Pink" and "Tribal" had already been released as frontlit models - for these reasons it can be very difficult to identify a European backlit SP. Apart from the AGS-101 model number on the base of the unit, the only other obvious distinguishing feature of the European backlit model is the large picture of the Game Boy Advance SP featured on the front of the box. (The European frontlit models of "Pink" and "Tribal" only feature small pictures of the Game Boy Advance SP on the sides of the box and Flower/Tattoo patterns on the front respectively.)

The AGS-101 Game Boy Advance SP was also the final Nintendo handheld to have backwards compatibility with Game Boy and Game Boy Color games in North America and Europe. In contrast to North America and Europe, the AGS-101 was never released in Japan and only frontlit model were available on the market until the end of the product life cycle.

F1RES0UL (August 22, 2009). "Gameboy Advance SP - European AGS-101 Model (Backlit) Unboxing". Archived from the original on April 18, 2016 – via YouTube.

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This listing is for the Installation Service Plus LCD Hardware for an IPS Backlit LCD Screen replacement in an original Game Boy System.The shell and buttons will be upgraded. Please choose your favorite color for the shell. The LCD screen does not fit an original shell without modifications. If you prefer to use the original shell we may be able to modify it for you, email us for a quote. Buttons will be gray by default on most systems, with the exception of the original gray system which will have the maroon buttons. Please email for other possibilities.

PLEASE READ: We highly suggest insuring your shipment to us. We are not responsible for any damage until the console is received and inspected. Your console must be in working order when inspected. We only provide the installation of the Game Boy LCD Screen. Please Do NOT ship your console to us without purchasing this service first.

This installation service includes the Game Boy LCD Screen as well as a new shell and buttons. Your old Hardware will NOT be saved or returned to you unless you request it.

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Version 2, 10 Levels Brightness IPS Backlight Backlit LCD For Game Boy Advance GBA Console IPS backlight LCD has 10 Levels of brightness. It is compatible with both 32 Pin and 40 Pin GBAs. THIS IS THE UPGRADED V2 MODEL! THIS MODEL DOES NOT HAVE THE SCREEN TEARING ISSUE! The LCD is the IPS backlight LCD, made by third-party factory. 1. Press and hold Select buttons, then press L buttons to increase the brightness. 2. Press and hold Select buttons, then press R buttons to decrease the brightness.

I, /u/Admiral_Butter_Crust on reddit or makho on Discord or Youtube, own nearly every backlight kit on the market right now for pretty much every console. I feel like that gives me a rather unique perspective on these things. I did make a video on just the GBC portion of this but it’s pretty old and only covers obsolete kits. I also ramble quite a bit so I figure that limiting myself to just text and a few pictures here and there will let me try and succinctify myself a bit. If you’re new to the hobby and just looking for a recommendation on what you should get and find that this document is information overload, just pick your console (new there too? Look at a GBA or GBA SP as those consoles play Game Boy, Game Boy Color, and Game Boy Advance titles) and just stick with the summary at the top of the section. While there are no direct links to kits in this page, there are links to my videos on these kits and often those will contain a link within the description, if the kit is still available.

Each system section has a summary with my recommended kit listed there. I also added a chart to be used a quick summary for the kits but do note that some liberties are taken for sake of brevity. You should check out the notes below the table or the full video for more information but it should be pretty easy to follow. Any field that has “recommended” in it should be interpreted as “yes” if you want the full experience with all features. For some kits this means full brightness control or hiding the edges of the LCD panel with a new lens but for core functionality, soldering is (usually) not required where noted. Measurements are approximated to the image size on the LCD (at the lens) and not the actual size of the LCD. Cuts are presumed to be for OEM style housings but there are aftermarket no-cut housings available for some models (marked with asterisk, see section in full list below for more info). Some cuts are significantly more difficult than others (marked with bold or caps or both). All LCDs have a screen door effect (or pixel grid) but some some LCDs are less prominant than others due to pixel density. Some kits emulate this prominent OEM feature by blacking out columns or rows of pixels. Adjustable brightness can be achieved for every kit, even when not natively supported though some DIY will be required. In some cases, tables are divided into groups by kit category, which, while somewhat arbitrary, is distinguished by features, compatibility, inherent problems, fitment, or availability. Only kits that fall into later/current sections are recommended.

There are several different types of LCDs used in Game Boys and these mod kits. I would like to spend a quick few minutes discussing them, if nothing else, to give you proper terms to go research. Do an internet serach of the bolded terms for more information.

Except for the Game Boy Light, all Game Boy consoles before the Game Boy Advance SP (and even technically including the earlier frontlit model) use passive reflective displays. This means that behind the screen is a reflector that is used to reflect natural light off the back of the screen through the liquid crystal pixel elements and back into your eyes for the purpose of illuminating the images on the screen. Starting with the Game Boy Advance SP, Nintendo started including internal lighting in the screens. The first SP model, the AGS-001, is a frontlit reflective display because there is a light panel in front of the screen that provides light to the reflective display. The second model of Game Boy Advance SP, the AGS-101, uses a backlit transmissive display because it no longer reflects natural lighting but allows light to pass through it from the light panel behind the LCD. Except for the original model DS (NTR, not USG), all Nintendo consoles made after the AGS-001 use backlit transmissive displays. All the displays I’ve mentioned so far are extremely common throughout the vast majority of electronics out there. There are other display types like CRT (for which is the only display that has scanlines), plasma, DLP, OLED, micro LED, etc, but those are not too relevant for this discussion. I may circle back to CRT later but for now we’ll continue on about Game Boys.

Let’s circle back to the two consoles I mentioned and excluded, the original DS model and Game Boy Light. Both of these consoles use the same type of display, a transflective backlit LCD (yes, really, the DS is backlit, not frontlit). The word “transflective” is a portmanteau of “transmissive” and “reflective” and is functionally similar a “one-way” mirror. These screens are built as a reflective display but instead of a reflector, they have a layer applied that will reflect light from the front or allow transmission of light from the back, depending on which source is brighter. These screens also have a backlight so when the backlight is off, the screen works much like a passive reflective display but when the backlight is on, the screen works much like a backlit transmissive display. Hence the word transflective. Good reflectors can be expensive and at best diminish color quality and black levels so most people usually opt for sunlight readibility compensation with an absurdly bright backlight instead.

Next, I want to talk about the specific technologies used to make these displays. All of the LCDs used in Game Boy consoles are made with thin-film transistor (TFT) technology. TFT displays can be further broken down into twisted-nematic (TN) or in-plane switching (IPS) displays (but not limited to). TN type displays were used primarily due to their cost (cheap) and power efficiency. This made them ideal for use within an inexpensive portable device. IPS type screens were around at the time but the technology wasn’t quite mature at the time (arguably, neither was TN but TN was a lot more advanced at the time) and not quite suitable for Game Boys. Benefits of an IPS type display over a TN display usually include more accurate color reproduction and much wider viewing angles. IPS type screens are often used in mod kits.

Last, if you see any mention of “Q5”, “9380”, or “690” LCDs or backlight kits, that is a reference to the screen itself that is packed with the kit. The kits that use these screens are designed to repurpose salvaged LCDs ($) instead of having something new manufactured from scratch ($$$). Most kits are using new old stock LCDs rather than LCDs directly pulled from phones but for replacement purposes, cheap display assemblies may be sourced and the LCD extracted manually. If the screen isn’t mentioned, it is unknown where the LCD is salvaged from, if it’s salvaged at all. “690” LCDs (DMG, MGB, CGB) are from the Palm Centro 690 and are available with a digitizer attached. The digitizer is held on to the edges of the LCD (NOT laminated) with double sided tape and must be removed to use in a GB. “9380” LCDs (CGB, AGB, AGS) are from the BlackBerry Curve 9380 and are available as bare LCDs from most GB kit resellers or as display assemblies from phone parts resellers. The LCD must be extracted from a phone assembly if applicable to use in a GB. “Q5” LCDs (DMG, MGB, CGB) are from the BlackBerry Q5 and are available as bare LCDs from most GB kit resellers or as display assemblies from phone parts resellers. The LCD must be extracted from a phone assembly if applicable to use in a GB. Looks like some of these LCDs can be grabbed from cloud game store on aliexpress.

A new trend with some backlight kits is to have the glass lens laminated to the LCD, much like how modern smartphones and tablets are constructed. Traditionally, Game Boys are made with an air gap between the plastic lens on the outside and the surface of the LCD on the inside. This results in a highly durable and modular build. Scratch the lens? Just pop it off and replace it. Want a custom lens? Just order one and replace it. However, some of the newer kits are bonding the LCD to the lens and shipping them as one unit (for example, the Laminated Q5 Funnyplaying Game Boy Color kit). This cuts down on the space between the lens and LCD and results in a much better looking final install, greatly improved picture quality, and completely eliminates the possibilty of dust or fingerprints under the lens. This is not without downsides, however. The primary issue is that lens customization is much more expensive/difficult, especially if you want to retain the lamination since the cost of replacing a lens OR LCD now includes BOTH a custom lens and LCD. Another issue particular to Game Boys is that you either have to use a custom shell designed for the laminated display OR you have to significantly modify your existing shell to fit the laminated display assembly. Please see this article for more information on LCD lamination and some good visuals.

I have several different recommendations for “best” kit as each kit seems to have different strengths or weaknesses. Overall cheapest would be an inexpensive LED panel and hex inverter for modifying the OEM LCD (item #10). This is certainly a good option if you like the OEM style screen but is not an option if your LCD is missing or damaged (cracked, screen rot, horizontal lines, etc). You can go a long way in improving the contrast but the original screens are still pretty low quality and have severe ghosting issues or other display artifacts. Alternatively, a total replacement kit is also an option. My pick for ease of install, performance, and function is probably going to be the funnyplaying ‘Retro Pixel’ kit (#11). This kit gives doesn’t give you the most features but what it does give you it does extremely well. Trimming is required unless you use an IPS Ready replacement shell (which funnyplaying also makes). For better color palette customization or even TV Out functionality, One Chip’s OSD and TV Out kits are pretty good choices (#12 and #13 respectively).

#10. Traditional backlighting methods (console and LED kit or EL Kit) – you can backlight the original LCD by removing the reflective layer and adding a small LED (or EL) panel. Results are surprisingly decent for the cost but the effort involved to get a good result can be a bit high and, even then, you still have to deal with all of the cons of the original screen. Which means poor contrast and ghosting. There are methods to improve the contrast (biverting) and this will help significantly. The LED panels themselves can also be a bit low quality and have LED “hot spots” but there are some high quality panels available. If the hot spots really bug you and you can’t salvage a good panel, you can use an electro-luminescent (EL) panel but those are generally more costly and not as bright (also come in limited colors). Image shamelessly stolen from u/MrCrono666. I have one of these built by the afore mentioned user and it is absolutely wonderful looking. Regardless of the panel you use, you will also want to do a bivert mod where you invert the colors of the screen by rotating one of the two polarization filters and then invert the signal being sent to the screen by installing a hex inverter between the screen and CPU (hence bi-vert). This results in a sharp increase to the contrast at the cost of decreased brightness (which you work around already by installing a light panel).

#11. Funnyplaying Q5 IPS “Retro Pixel” Backlight (console and kit) – this is basically their MGB IPS kit but with an additional replacement front board for the DMG. I’m extremely pleased with it so far. Quick tap the contrast wheel and then up or down to cycle through the palette presets and long tap to toggle the pixel grid emulation modes. The contrast wheel controls the brightness up or down when not in palette select mode (quick tap to toggle modes). The screen looks absolutely amazing and the trim required to install it is actually pretty easy. I didn’t notice any egregious screen issues like dropped frames or tearing that some other kits seem to exhibit. I HIGHLY recommend using a bracket or a spacer to line it up though. The included adhesive is permanent so if you mess it up (like I did on the MGB install), you’re stuck with it unless you want to purchase a new LCD (less than $7 from funnyplaying). You can use a stock sized lens but the actual display image is slightly larger than stock and might be best with the custom lens included in the kit. Part of the install is making the LCD window bigger to work with the new lens but funnyplaying also makes IPS Ready shells that do not require a trim. Biggest downside is the battery life with an estimated 25~50% runtime after the install, depending on your brightness level. An alternative to this kit might be the OC Q5 OSD Kit (item #12) but the feature set is a little different. (see my install here)

#12. One Chip Q5 IPS “DMG Backlight OSD” (kit) – Uses the same LCD as the Funnyplaying “Retro Pixel” kit (Q5) but with an OSD similar to the “Moon Screen” kit. This kit has user programmable color palettes and you can overwrite the presets with these settings. Each of the four colors (white, light gray, dark gray, black) are fully programmable with RGB values. Testing revealed no noticeable defects or other frame rate issues. Kit also feature programmable vertical and horizontal positions as well to fine tune the kit if the LCD is not aligned perfectly with the lens. If you don’t care for the pixel grid modes, this the best kit for the DMG right now. (see my install here)

#13. One Chip IPS OSD TV Version (kit) – This kit appears to be an amalgamation of the V3 and V4 kits with all the features of the V4 + a TV out function but on mostly v3 hardware. Some vendors will refer to this kit as the ‘DMG TV Version’, ‘DMG V5’, or similar. This kit comes in two versions itself, one with TV out function, and one without and other than the TV out functionality, the kits look and work the same. Install is identical between the two except that you do not have to solder the composite video connection to the link port. The TV out functionality works by sending a full screen composite video signal over the link port and then a custom AV cable is connected via the headphone jack and link port to the TV. Unfortunately, composite video is very low quality but if you’re willing to suffer the drawbacks of composite, it’s a rather decent kit. For the first time yet, OC has added support for the correct aspect ratio and you can change between full screen and scaled via the OSD. Composite aside, the TV Out function does work pretty nicely. Unfortunately, the internal LCD itself is a rather large downgrade compared to the OSD/V4 kit. The lower resolution means no more pixel grid support, the image on screen is smaller (still stock sized, just smaller than the previous kit), and the kit no longer supports repositioning the image on the screen. This last point should be rather moot as the kit does come with a bracket for positioning things, however. If you want TV Out on your DMG, this is the kit to go with (you’re spoiled for choice there though) but if you want the best looking internal LCD, this is not it (see #11 or #12 above). (see my install here)

#14. Cloud Game Store 2.6” IPS Kit (kit) – this kit looks to be the same as the MGB version but with an additional front board for use in the DMG. Unlike the other DMG screen replacement kits, this kit does already have a speaker soldered on to the replacement front board (though mine specifically did need one of the joints retouched). Not recommended for install in IPS Ready shells as the necessary alignment screw posts are not present. Biggest downside with this kit in particular is that the alignment bracket and screen lens are very off center for ease of install. The purpose of being off center is to minimize the amount of triming required so if you want to get adventurous with it, and if you have a centered screen lens, then you can center your install no problem. Brightness and color palettes are toggled via the included touch sensor. Contrast wheel does nothing. Performance is very good and battery life with this kit is even better. For ease of install with stock or stock ish consoles, this is the way to go. This kit has fewer features than the Q5 or TV Out type kits but if you don’t care for those specific features, you can save some money on this kit. (see my install here)

#1. BennVenn 3.0” LCD kit (console and kit) – this is a replacement front PCB with a new, larger LCD on it. Other than installing a speaker and cutting the shell to reduce the bezel size, the install is relatively drop-in. The new screen is bigger but it is the correct resolution. It also still has the same (or even worse in some cases) ghosting issues and the contrast can still be inadequate. It’s a decent option given the niche it fills but other than the size, it’s not considered an improvement by most. These appear to be permanently discontinued. (I don’t have one of these)

#3. HiVision 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – I don’t have this kit in a DMG but I do have one in a MGB. There are several iterations of this kit and some do drop frames. Historically, this was also the only AIO kit that actually came with the proper wiring for DMG. This kit significantly improves on the ghosting and contrast issues of the previous methods but the viewing angles are not that great and the LCD size itself is a big down-grade. On the plus size, the install does not require any irreversible modification. You do need to desolder the original LCD from the front board and solder the new one in place. I can’t vouch for the ease of install but it doesn’t look too bad as long as you don’t mind soldering directly to a ribbon cable. Due to the smaller LCD, the bezels are huge. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. The CGS 2.6” IPS kit (#14) replaced this one. (I technically don’t have one of these)

#4. One Chip 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – I don’t have this kit in a DMG but I do have one in a MGB. There are several iterations of this kit and some do drop frames. Historically, this kit did not come with the wiring you needed to easily install this. You can use the ribbon cable adapter from the above kit to install this kit or you can wire it manually with the MGB ribbon cable. This kit significantly improves on the ghosting and contrast issues of the previous methods but the viewing angles are not that great and the LCD size itself is a big down-grade. On the plus size, the install does not require any irreversible modification. You do need to desolder the original LCD from the front board and solder the new one in place. I can’t vouch for the ease of install but it doesn’t look too bad as long as you don’t mind soldering directly to a ribbon cable. Due to the smaller LCD, the bezels are huge. Presumably, the custom color palettes that the new kit supports will work on this console too. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. The “RIPS” series of kits replaced this kit (see #12 and #13) (I technically don’t have one of these)

#5. Taobao IPS Backlight (v1 - “Rainbow Screen”) (console and kit) – The kit looks amazing in the pictures and videos I’ve seen but it’s difficult to get outside of China. My understanding is that this kit has been discontinued in favor of the v2 version coming soon^^^tm (which I will be getting). The v1 version is not a full front PCB replacement as it appears you have to solder it to the front board like the AIO kits above but it does fix all of the issues of all of the previous kits. The screen size is the same as stock (so it works with OEM lenses), the brightness is great, the viewing angles are incredible, the frame rate looks good, the ghosting is way better than stock (but still not perfect as it’s an IPS LCD). Images taken from the thread made by u/TheChineseGuy2019. This kit was made obsolete by the “Moon Screen” kit (item #6).

#7. Taobao IPS Backlight (v2 - “Moon Screen”) (console and kit) – This kit is basically the Rainbow Screen kit but more refined. Installation is significantly easier than the previous iteration and aside from having to transfer your speaker over, the kit is actually 100% drop in with no modding required. You do not need to cut up your shell and the only soldering is for the speaker. Unlike the Funnyplaying kit or the One Chip kits which use 4x and 2x scaling respectively, this kit uses 3x scaling so the image is not going to be as sharp as the funnyplaying kit but it is sharp enough to have the pixel grid enabled like the funnyplaying kit. Personally, I don’t like that option but at least it is exactly that; an option. Everything on this kit is configurable, even each color of every pixel from the line grid to the DMG “color” palettes and you can save your configurations to one of eight presets. A side effect of the kit being completely drop in with no modding required is that the LCD itself is a bit smaller and is visible from the outside with a normal sized lens and the display image itself is a bit smaller. This kit has the image displayed on the LCD measuring in at 43mm wide by 38.75mm tall whereas the OC V3 IPS kit measures in at 44.5mm wide by 40.35 tall. The Funnyplaying kit will be bigger than both of these kits and I’ll add the measurements as soon as I get my hands on one. All in all, this is a fantastic kit. With how difficult these are to acquire and how expensive they are, there are much better kits for the money. If you can get one and if you don’t mind paying a bit in the process, it’s a great kit. (see my install here)

#8. One Chip IPS Backlight kit (“RIPS v2”) – This kit is identical in hardware to the v1 kit but with the LCD data lines swapped in software. The install is identical to v1 EXCEPT that you do not have to swap the LCD data lines yourself manually. The performance is pretty much identical as well except that the grays are correctly assigned in all palettes (instead of JUST the yellow/pink palette) and the contrast on the “gray” palette is even better. I really like this kit but the funnyplaying kit looks as though it may be even more promising if the v2 version keeps the custom palette options from v1. Left is v1 kit, right is v2 kit. Decent kit but obsoleted by newer iterations. (see my install here)

Like the DMG section, I have three different recommendations for “best” kit as each kit seems to have different strengths or weaknesses. Overall cheapest would be an inexpensive LED panel for modifying the OEM LCD (item #1). This is certainly a good option if you like the OEM style screen but is not an option if your LCD is missing or damaged (cracked, screen rot, vertical lines etc). You can go a long way in improving the contrast but the original screens are still pretty low quality and have severe ghosting issues or other display artifacts. Alternatively, a total replacement kit is also an option. My pick for ease of install, performance, and function is definitely the ‘One Chip’ version of the AIO TFT kit (item #3). This kit is pretty light on features but requires absolutely zero permanent modification to your MGB and is one of the cheapest in the list (of total replacement kits). It requires no shell modding and no permanent adhesive. A step up from this kit is the AIO XL kit (item #8) if you don’t mind a little bit of modification. Feature set is mostly the same but you at least get a stock sized LCD. If you’re fine with cutting up your shell, the ‘One Chip’ Q5 OSD IPS kit (item #6) is also a fantastic option. While the install is a bit more involved, the actual display image itself is bigger (slightly larger than OEM) and looks proportionally better on the MGB with the thin bezels and huge LCD. This kit has the most features and is competetively priced with the rest. Performance differences are mostly negligible but battery life is not great. With the new IPS ready aftermarket shells, these larger Q5 IPS kits may soon be a “drop in” experience as far as cutting goes. Expect less than four hours on average with one of these (even less with a flash cart too).

#1. Traditional backlighting methods (console and kit) – exactly the same as DMG except that out of the box the contrast is better. You can still bivert for marginal improvements though. Biverting a MGB does not result in as big an improvement as biverting a DMG. Some people report power related issues after a mod like this that can usually be mitigated by either: 1) using better batteries like constant voltage juggees or the like, 2) installing an auxiliary voltage regulator to power the GB itself and leaving the stock voltage regulator for the backlight (must have load on the 5v rail or will not properly power the LCD too), or 3) installing a Lithium-Ion battery mod (advanced users only!). (see my install here)

(like I did), you’re stuck with it unless you want to purchase a new LCD (less than $7 from funnyplaying). You can use a stock sized lens (and that’s what it comes with) but the actual display image is slightly larger than stock and might be best with a custom lens that has a slightly larger opening. You’d have to modify the LCD window in the shell for this as well though. Biggest downside is the battery life but that’s been an issue with the Pocket even before this kit. This kit does not help though. I’ve had issues booting an EZ Flash JR, especially with slightly used NiMh rechargeables. Constant voltage batteries like juggees are a good idea for a mod like this. Alternatively, this kit should also work the same way in a Game Boy Light and that will help tremendously with the battery life. Funnyplaying makes a shell for the Pocket designed to be used with this kit which will make the install no longer require any shell cutting. (see my install here)

There appears to be an updated version to this kit again (v1.2? v2? Unknown) that was teased with their new IPS ready custom MGB shells. Is this the same kit as the previous iteration? Yes and no. It’s the same LCD as their previous mod and likely the exact same hardware adapter too. It still uses integer scaling so the game viewable area is identical. The difference, it appears, is that they look to be applying the “white” color palette to the entire LCD display area to emulate the look of an unmasked backlit OEM screen. This was a software update to the previous kit only and all the same pros and cons still otherwise apply. This should be considered the same kit. (This was formerly line item #5 but I removed it without re-ordering the list).

#6. One Chip IPS Backlight Kit Q5 Version (kit) – This kit is similar in install compared to the funnyplaying kit above and even uses the same LCD. The tradeoff is the hit to battery life (compared to AIO kits) and the more complicated install. The other full size kit from cloud gaming (item #8) offers similar size screen image with a smaller overall LCD. This means an easier install as less trimming is required but overall the picture quality is not as good. My testing did not show any quirks or other performance issues such as screen tearing or unexpected frame dropping and showed no pixel overdrive artifacts. The install is actually somewhat forgiving as no positioning bracket is required. As long as you get the LCD in the shell straight and not askew, you can adjust where the image displays on screen to ensure that your lens cutout is lined up perfectly. Soldering is optional but for full functionality (custom palettes, image position, more brightness levels, battery display), highly recommended. The only quirk that I noticed, if you can even call it that, is that the button combo to pull up the OSD and navigating the menu itself still sends inputs to the game. Depending on your game, this could be highly annoying. Also, there are some games, such as Link’s Awakening (DX), that will trigger the OSD just from normal use. A workaround would be to disconnect the button controls (or use dip switches) so the OSD is disabled when not in use or to just wire the inputs to different buttons. The color palettes are a an excellent feature and allow you to emulate different color backlights or even just set your own custom palettes like some previous kits. You have full RGB control over the color value of each shade output by the MGB (total of four different values). Note that this doesn’t add more color information to the screen, the MGB will still only ever output four different colors (stock - white, light gray, dark gray, and black). Another reoccuring feature is going to be the pixel grid emulation. Personally, I prefer it off as it lowers the image quality and contrast but I know that is an appealing feature for a lot of people. This kit is my all time favorite for Game Boy Pocket. If pixel grid emulation is a killer feature for you, the funnyplaying implementation is a LOT better. There’s more variety and the options better looking. (see my install here)

#8. Cloud Game Store 2.6” IPS LCD Kit (formerly HiVision “AIO XL” TFT Kit) – On the surface, this kit appears to be the same kit as the previous AIO kits except with a larger screen except that the screen itself is not transflective, however. While this means visibility in direct sunlight is limited, the screen does have much better black levels. Viewing angles seem much better on this kit compared to other AIO style kits. The kit does support some basic color palette functionality and five levels of brightness, but the range of both are somewhat disapointing. There is also no pixel grid emulation (which I personally don’t mind but I feel is worth mentioning) as the LCD only supports 2x integer scaling and not the minimum 3x that is required for such a feature. I noticed no frame dropping or tearing. Despite the lack of high brightness levels and some options in similar kits, this is a really good kit. If the color palette support and brightness control were better (more options, saves values, maybe even on separate controls), it would take the place of the Funnyplaying IPS kit for my recommendation due to the much easier install and very similar image size and quality. This kit has an excellent price to performance ratio. (see my install here)

#2. HiVision 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – Exactly the same as DMG again. There are two different versions and both should work on this console. This is the version that would drops frames. Unlike the DMG, you do not need to solder except for one wire to the power switch. New versions of this kit come with a wire preinstalled on the ribbon that you can just wrap around the battery terminal. These iterations should have the frame dropping fixed as well. Soldering is no longer required but still highly recommended. Install is otherwise drop in with no other mods required, even in OEM shells. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. (see my install here)

#3. One Chip 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – Exactly the same as DMG again. There are two different versions and both should work on this console. This is the version that does not drop frames. Unlike the DMG, you do not need to solder except for one wire to the power switch. New versions of this kit come with a wire preinstalled on the ribbon that you can just wrap around the battery terminal. Soldering is no longer required but still highly recommended. Install is otherwise drop in with no other mods required. Presumably, the custom color palettes that the new kit supports will work on this console too. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. (see my install here)

#7. Taobao IPS kit (console) – Another kit appeared on taobao and it does not appear to be either of the above two IPS kits. I had one on order but they were out of stock. It looks really good though. I’m going to try and get one when these are restocked. This is just a really clean traditional backlight install with a custom backlight panel. This is the OEM screen. Leaving this entry for posterity.

There are five different options for the pixel grid emulation and some of the options are rather compelling. I would like to see future kits include this functionality. Performance seems to be ideal for a kit like this – no frame dropping or tearing and no weird artifacts to either side of the screen or missing pixel columns and these kits do include a way to move the image on the LCD if the screen or lens are not perfectly centered during install. There are some issues though. The install is largely identical to the OC OSD Q5 backlight kit (#13) but with an increased power consumption (over the OC option) and more convoluted controls. The feature parity does seem to be pretty similar despite not having an ‘on-screen display’ to manage settings. Regarding the controls for the kit, there is a required touch sensor and optional button controls. You can toggle every feature of the kit with the touch sensor only but hooking up the button controls does not provide an easier or better experience like usual. The button controls are used in conjunction with the touch sensor. Hopefully this decision is revised in future iterations of this kit. (see my install here

You can use the funnyplaying laminated Game Boy Color shells for this kit if you do not want to have to trim your own shell but you will have to manually attach the LCD to the lens. This method risks permanantly trapping dust inside, newtonian rings, and does not grant an illuminated logo (though the kit, screen, and shell will support this, you’d need to find a lens that has the required printing). It is recommended to just use the laminated version of this kit if you intend on using the laminated shells.

There are five different options for the pixel grid emulation and some of the options are rather compelling. Performance seems to be the best yet of any GBC kit – no frame dropping or tearing and no weird artifacts to either side of the screen or missing pixel columns, much like the previous iteration of this kit. There are some issues though. The install is pretty unique to this kit due to the laminated LCD but is possibly the easiest kit to install when used alongside funnyplaying’s custom GBC housings. Again, same as the previous kit, this kit features an increased power consumption (over the OC option), more convoluted controls. Regarding the controls for the kit, the button controls are used in conjunction with the touch sensor. The touch sensor controls brightness and pixel grid emulation settings whereas the button controls (and touch sensor together) control the position of the display on the LCD (a feature previously unique to the OSD kit, #13) and to change the colors of the GBC logo on the lens. (see my install here

#13. One Chip OSD IPS Backlight Kit Q5 Version (kit) – This kit uses a LCD that has a larger image size than stock. All kits before this used large LCDs but the image was either stock sized or even smaller. The result includes much thinner bezels and a much clearer and larger image. The tradeoff is the hit to battery life (compared to AIO kits) and the more complicated install*. Speaking of the 9380 kits, while this kit does require more shell trimming for a stock or cloud game store shell, the install is actually a bit easier as no positioning bracket is required. As long as you get the LCD in the shell straight and not askew, you can adjust where the image displays on screen to ensure that your lens cutout is lined up perfectly. Soldering is optional but for full functionality (custom palettes, image position, more brightness levels, battery display*), highly recommended. The only quirk that I noticed, if you can even call it that, is that the button combo to pull up the OSD and navigating the menu itself still sends inputs to the game. Depending on your game, this could be highly annoying but an easy work around is to boot the console without a game when changing the settings. Also, there are some games, such as Link’s Awakening (DX), that will trigger the OSD just from normal use. A workaround would be to disconnect the button controls (or use dip switches) so the OSD is disabled when not in use or to even just wire up the controls to different buttons. The color palettes are a neat gimmick and it’s cool that you can set custom palettes with this kit. Unlike the MGB version of this kit, the color palettes are more like color filters though as you can set how much red, green, or blue appears in the image (0-100% in 16 or 32 steps). Much more interesting is going to be the pixel grid emulation. Personally, I prefer it off as it lowers the image quality and contrast but I know that is an appealing feature for a lot of people. They have improved this feature quite significantly (copying funnyplaying’s implementation) but the specific implementation used here does not seem as polished as funnyplayings. (see my install here)

My early testing did show a slight intermittent cropping of one pixel column from the right side of the screen or one row on the bottom of the screen but newer kits have resolved this issue

I did not see any other issues such as screen tearing or unexpected frame dropping and due to the lack of pixel overdrive artifacts present in kits that use the BlackBerry Curve 9380 display

Another iteration to this kit adds the logo illumination that funnyplaying has. It works just about as you’d expect but due to the air gap between the lens and the LCD, the alignment can be off at most angles.

#13½. One Chip Laminated Q5 IPS Kit – This is an identical version of the above kit but with a 2mm thick piece of glass laminated between the LCD and lens. Features and functions are identical to the above kit otherwise. Fitment is different as the trim is a bit more indepth. These screens do NOT work with the funnyplaying laminated housings, at least not without trimming the housing. This is due to the significant thickness of the display assembly. The kit will work with a funnyplaying laminated LCD however, but you will not get the illuminated logo. (see my install here)

#14. One Chip HDMI Out Q5 Backlight Kit – This kit is an iteration to the previous Q5 IPS kits and contains all the same features and quirks but with an additional HDMI encoder for outputting an upscaled 720p signal over HDMI. Shell trimming is very involved as there are no shells that will fit this kit and an opening for the micro HDMI port is required. The actual internal features are pretty much what we’ve come to expect at this point from Q5 OSD kits and performance is basically the same but the new gimmick this time around is the HDMI output. In usual “OC” fashion, the HDMI out is not implemented as well as it could be. The scaling is uneven and audio is captured after the volume wheel which means that while you can control the TV volume with the GB, it also means that the GB will also play sound. Due to the signal processing lag, there will always be a delay to the repeated audio too. Muting the GB with headphones is recommended. The audio capture also means that you get noisy analog signal that is highly dependent upon how good of condition your volume wheel is (and contact cleaner in the volume wheel does help). But at least the aspect ratio is correct (in one of the three modes). The screen does shut off when in HDMI mode but the efficiency of the HDMI encoder dwarfs any potential gains to be had from having the screen powered off and the console still runs over internal batteries when tethered. This kit is a compromise and I do not recommend it at all. Non-HDMI versions are cheaper and easier to install and dedicated HDMI consoles (such as the GBHD Color/Advance from Gamebox) perform much better and have more features, better scaling, and better audio handling. Not to mention, I have long term concerns over the reliability of micro HDMI used in this manner. (see my install here)

#15. Cloud Game Store 2.6” IPS Kit (formerly “AIO XL”) (kit) – On the surface, this kit appears to be the same kit as the previous AIO kits except with a larger screen. Unlike those previous AIO kits, the screen itself is an IPS type and is not transflective (not mutually exclusive). While this means visibility in direct sunlight is limited, the screen does have much better black levels. Viewing angles seem much better on this kit compared to other AIO style kits. The kit does support some basic color palette functionality and five levels of brightness, but the range of both are somewhat disapointing. There is also no pixel grid emulation (which I personally don’t mind but I feel is worth mentioning) as the LCD only supports 2x integer scaling and not the minimum 3x that is required for proper implementation of such a feature. I noticed no frame dropping or tearing. Despite the relatively low brightness and current lack of extra features, this is a really good kit. If the color palette support and brightness control were better (more options, saves values, maybe even on separate controls), it would take the place of the Funnyplaying IPS kit for my recommendation due to the much easier install and very similar image size and quality. The price and ease of install makes this kit have a terrific price to performance ratio, especially with the introduction of the new Cloud Game Store shells that allow a trim free install for this kit. (see my install here)

#16. Cloud Game Store 2.6” IPS Kit 2022 Version (kit) – This is an updated version of the previous kit but does not appear to replace it (at least not yet). These kits use the EXACT same LCD but the ribbon on the LCD has been changed (for easier install) and thus means the LCDs are not interchangeable. Performance between this kit and the previous iteration are very similar due to the similar LCDs but some new features have also been added including memory for color palette selection, pixel grid options, and brightness levels. This means that the kit now retains settings between reboots. The new pixel grid emulation (or screen door effect emulation) is pretty limited due to the lower resolution of these screens. Despite the limitations, CGS implemented three different modes and I took pictures and created this album to document them. I normally dislike the pixel grid options and this kit is no exception because you lose a significant amount of brightness and contrast both by going from 2x integer scaling to 1x with blackouts inbetween each pixel. Note that in my pictures, the brightness was not changed between modes. At the very least, you do get three options, vertical lines, horizontal lines, or both (or neither). The both option is the darkest by far but if that’s what you’re into, at least you have the option now. Another update to this kit involves the backlight controller off external power instead of the LCD bus. This results in a much more stable console (as booting on slightly depleted batteries and with a flash cart has otherwise caused issues) and allows some flexibility for additional backlight control. But this also means that soldering is required, despite the maker’s insistence that you can just wrap the wire around a battery terminal (not recommended). Last, the color palette option consists of regular (unmodified) or grayscale. There are no other options this time. My install consists of a modified version of this kit so some steps may not be totally accurate. (see my install here)

The seller does offer laminated versions of this kit and they sell modified shells that it works with too. These laminated screen assemblies do NOT fit in a funnyplaying made laminated shell.

#17. Cloud Game Store 2.45” Original Size Kit (kit) – This kit is the successor to the previous ‘HiVision AIO’ kits. From the same maker and with all the kinks worked out, this kit uses a LCD that is physically smaller than the original Game Boy Color LCD but that produces a slightly larger image. This means that there is finally a kit that can be dropped in to literally any GBC shell without having to cut the shell AND without having to compromise on a smaller LCD. Performance and features are identical to the 2.6” kit in just about every way except that there is only one pixel grid option and I took pictures and created this album to document it. Unfortunately this screen is not an IPS type unlike the 2.6” version so the viewing angles are not nearly as good. That being said, it is still a high quality LCD and a significant upgrade over a stock LCD. The sheer size of the LCD allows for some pretty promising other mods, including relatively easy DIY lamination. Like the 2022 version of the 2.6” kit (above), soldering is required for proper functionality. (see my install here)

#2. AGS-101 / El Clono TFT adapter (console and kit) – all around not a great mod. Don’t get me wrong, it was effectively the first backlight kit so of course we all went nuts for it but compared to the other options, it’s not a good idea at all to build a new one with all the newer alternatives. The LCD and adapter ribbon are both very expensive (though the new PCB adapter and its clones have gotten cheaper, the LCD pricing has more than made up for this). The install process is one of the most difficult as it requires precisely milling out the shell to fit the huge LCD. Due to the increased DPI of GBA LCDs, the actual image on the GBC is smaller than stock as well. Finally, battery life plummets with this mod, especially compared to other kits. One of the few pros is that the colors and image quality itself is pretty good. I ended up building a GBC using BennVenn’s v2.3 ribbon. I believe that the actual clones of this adapter use an older version of the firmware that is buggy with certain model GBCs but I had zero issues with my legit ribbon. (I assembled mine before I started filming youtube videos)

#3. Freckleshack v1/v2 690 TFT kit (console (left) and kit) – The first in the new wave of transflective LCD kits. The LCD this kit uses is smaller than stock but this allows certain kits to fit without modification to the console. The LCD also is high resolution and allows for the same integer scaling as the above taobao kit. The v1/batch 1 kits in particular had some screen flickering issues that broke Pokemon Pinball but all the remainder of the v1/v2 kits still do have some minor LCD flickering quirks. These kits also all require trimming cart reader pins and cutting of the shell to fit the kit. Overall, this kit is fantastic for the money, but v2.5 should be a nice improvement. They’ve all since been discontinued in favor of v2.5. No difference between v1 and v2 kits other than brightness control (v1 has no brightness control and aside from the first batch of v1 kits, they both have the minor quirk where the black screen bezels flicker white on screen transitions). The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. However, V1 kits did not have brightness adjust. (see my install here)

#4. McWill 690 TFT kit (console (right) and kit) – This kit came out pretty much at the same time as Freckleshack v1. It uses the exact same LCD but the install was very different. I had quite a few issues with the v1 kit but I’m told that most of them are resolved with v1.1. The install for v1.0 is complicated and way more difficult than it needs to be. The kit is drop in, except for the surface mount crystal oscillator that you have to solder on. Also, the kit didn’t even work in the first GBC I installed it in. I did notice some screen tearing in this kit. I’m told that the v1.1 fixes both my issues with screen tearing and having to solder that surface mount crystal oscillator but I’ll have to take someone else’s word for that one. Both v1.0 and v1.1 draw so much power that on a cold boot, you have to reboot your GBC two or three times before it will start up properly. I can only recommend this kit if literally nothing else is in stock (unlikely) or if you want the VGA output. Oh and because I want one more thing to complain about, the PCB is glued to the LCD and the screen kit is located within the shell via the shape of the PCB. My screen was glued in crooked and there is likely no way to fix it without breaking something. Thanks McWill. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. However, these kits do not have native brightness adjust. (see my install here)

#5. MidWest Embedded 690 TFT kit (console and kit) – This was also part of the first wave of transflective kits and came out pretty much at the same time as the other two. Between Freckleshack (v1 specifically) and McWill (v1.0), this seemed like the best compromise. Of those three, it was the only kit that supported brightness control and seemed to have no display related issues. However, after installing mine, I did notice a constant jittering of the screen. It does not appear to be dropping frames or tearing but it’s not quite buttery smooth either. This kit has a pretty serious affect on battery life. Most people claim to get more than what MWE claims, but even those who have measured the power consumption have noted that it’s very high. You do have to cut the screen bezel of the plastic shell to fit this thing. It does result in a much better visual appearance with the LCD closer to the lens though. Despite the issues, there was still a lot of thought put into the install and fit and finish of the mod and I’m still really impressed despite the minor visual issue. Honestly, it is a solid kit if not for the high battery consumption. There are still better kits for the cost though. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. Even with brightness adjust, you cannot disable the backlight with these kits, however. (see my install here)

#7. One Chip 690 TFT kits (AIO) (console and kits) – This kit is, more or less, a clone of the previous kit but with a different controller chip. It’s been very difficult to even know what kit you are getting ahead of time but it looks like the one chip version of this kit has a new feature. This new feature enables custom color palette support. This new feature will also help tell the two kits apart since the HiVision kit does not (yet?) support custom color palettes. This kit is anywhere from $35-60 but the price depends entirely on the vendor and the accessories it comes with. Install is literally drop in with no soldering or shell trimming required. It is 100% reversible. The “pirate” kits are made by the same factory that makes the “one chip” branded IPS kits. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. (see more info on the difference between the HiVision and One Chip kits here)

Apparently the new version of this kit (with the color palettes) has “a pulsing horizontal on the screen during play.” They noted that this line makes it look like the screen has “ripples.” I still don’t have one yet myself so I cannot confirm but it would match up with some other things I’ve heard about this kit (like it was pulled from sale until it gets an update). Thanks for the confirmation, u/thor-odenson. I actually just got one of these myself and the kits appear to be fixed but results may be hit and miss depending on the age of the stock from the seller. The number of iterations of this kit with no identifying features makes it very difficult to recommend.

#8. Funnyplaying 9380 IPS kit (v1 – **THERE IS NO V2) (console and kit)** – One of funnyplaying’s first offerings for Game Boy Color, this kit uses a 9380 LCD in native orientation (portrait). You get a stock sized image but the actual LCD itself is very large and requires a lot of trimming for fit. This kit requires a lot of irreversible trimming. If you don’t mind doing the trimming, this can be a decent option. Compared to the 690 based kits, viewing angles are much, much better, the frame rate is synced properly, colors look great (and as accurate to the original GBC as they can be on a backlit screen), and the price/availability is much better than this kit’s cousin. This is the first backlit kit that is actually OEM sized. The taobao one is a wee bit smaller but both work well with OEM sized lenses. Unfortunately, this kit has some glitches in some games and in all v1-v4 Game Boy Color revisions and some v5 revisions. Only the v6 (late model) boards seem to work with no glitches. This kit has since been discontinued in favor of the Q5 versions. (see my install here)

#10. Taobao kit IPS LCD kit (“Galaxy Screen”) (console and kit) – this kit is pretty similar to the new Funnyplaying IPS kit (above) except that it’s been available for a few years already. This kit saw a super limited release on taobao then was hard to get for a while. You can still get one now but the wait list (as of 2020) is still over a month. It requires a not insignificant amount of trimming of the shell (pretty much the same as the funnyplaying kit) and a bit of soldering. The actual display image is very nearly stock sized (42mm wide for this kit vs 43mm wide for stock). The high resolution LCD used allows the kit to use integer scaling for the GBC image. This results in a super clean look with no screen door effect (it’s there still if you look really close though). The effect of the higher resolution is actually pretty similar to playing an emulator on PC with smoothing off. It’s very crisp. The image quality and viewing angles are absolutely fantastic but the colors look a bit over saturated and a bit, erm, off. There is no way to calibrate the kit to my knowledge. When the only other kit was the above AGS-101 kit, this one of the best / highest quality kits available. Now, not so much. There are way better kits for much less money. (see my install here)

#11. One Chip 9380 IPS kit (console and kit) – Outwardly, this kit appears the same as the funnyplaying kit above because they use the exact same Blackberry Curve 9380 LCD. The difference, however, is in the function and appearance of the adapter that makes the LCD work with the GBC. The install is pretty much identical to the FP kit except that there is one extra touch sensor. This sensor is used to adjust the color palettes that the kit uses. While this function is not very useful on Game Boy Color games, it can be very usefull on original DMG games or palette enhanced DMG games. One such example is Pokemon Yellow (NA) since you cannot use the built in DMG palettes that the Color has. This kit, however, can override any and all color palettes, even on full color games. As is, this kit does have a few small issues though. The kit does have solder points for button based controls instead of touch sensors but per the manufacturer, these controls are actually not yet implemented (tested and confirmed). Additionally, my kit seemed to have quite a few issues with booting flash carts on full brightness on any batteries that weren’t fresh alkalines. When I did manage to get the flash cart booted, I would experience regular screen glitching (see the album or the install video for more info). I got a replacement kit and it looks like these issues were due to a defect with my original kit. They finally implemented the button controls as well in a new quiet revision. Unfortunately, there is no meaningful way to visually distinguish between the early, buggy kits and the latest, stable kits unless the retailer you buy from actually pays attention and knows what they have. See the new new linked install. This kit looks really good but until these issues (button control and frame dropping) get fixed, I can’t say I recommend the kit and has my approval for a kit if you want to keep the stock LCD size (can’t get a custom lens in the style you want). There are better kits now though. (see my install here)

There are a few options here that work on both GBA and GBA SP but I’m going to keep these sections separate as there are some different considerations for certain mods I believe. All of the kits have some downsides but between price and performance and availability, I like the Funnyplaying IPS v2 kit (item #13) as it has the highest screen quality available. It does require a bit of shell modification but pre-modified shells are available from several vendors now. I don’t think the AGS-101 TFT LCD (item #2) really holds up compared to a more modern LCD, especially with the release of FP’s “ITA” kit (item #14) but it is still a worthwhile mention. On that note, FP’s “ITA” kit (item #14) is actually a really nice option both for visual appearance, power usage, and price. I prefer the look of their older 9380 kit (#13) but with the price, power usage, and “ITA Ready” shells, it is difficult to make a valid argument against this kit. The Cloud Game Store ‘No Cut’ IPS kit (item #12) is pretty good, especially if you absolutely must not cut up your console, and there are very few downsides that make it difficult to recommend over the Funnyplaying kit. The ‘No Cut’ IPS kit does not require shell modification (or a replacement shell) and the image quality is very good in comparison to the Funnyplaying 9380 kits but the 9380 LCD (even toppoly) is still better in my opinion and cutting is highly recommended anyway so the LCD can sit flat against the shell. Install will be significantly improved if you don’t mind cutting up the shell a little bit (not nearly as much as the 9380 cuts) but this is not required. Cloud Game Store does also offer high quality console housing shells for this and the internal screen nubs are not present on these shells (and thus do not need to be removed unlike OEM).

Like mentioned in the intro section, the “9380” designated kits use a LCD salvaged from a Blackberry Curve 9380 cell phone. These LCDs are extremely high in quality compared to the original LCDs in Game Boys (even the AGS-101 backlit LCD), That being said, there are some quirks to be aware of.

The colors tend to be on the warmer side (not necessarily bad but it is different) which may result in a different looking experience than expected. A lot of original games for GBA would intentionally overs