htpc case lcd touch screen free sample

Our February review included Thermaltake’s DH102. This time, we"re taking a look at the newer DH 202, which features an integrated card reader. If you try to locate HTPC cases on Thermaltake’s Web site, look under desktop cases, as there is no dedicated HTPC category.

Another company that needs no introduction in the world of computer cases is Thermaltake. Their lineup of HTPC cases is very impressive ranging from the monstrous MozartTX to the tiny SD100 Mini. Then we have the DH series in the middle, starting with the DH101 which quickly spawned into the DH102, DH103, and now the DH104.

The DH104 is arguably Thermaltake"s most impressive HTPC case so far, featuring an impressive 7" LCD touchscreen and hot keys module. This setup is similar to what we found on the GlacialTech Altair A381, even the remotes are the same, suggesting that they are in fact using the same design. However, Thermaltake took the concept to the next level with the LCD screen, and it should be said they are not afraid to charge you for it.

Those who felt the DH101 base model was a bit rich at $250 should prepare to brace themselves as the DH104 is set to cost upwards of $500. This makes the Thermaltake DH104 the most expensive case in this round-up by quite a lengthy margin.

The Thermaltake DH104 is an impressive looking case and despite of its monstrous size, we feel it can still serve perfectly well as a HTPC case. The DH104 measures 17" wide, 8.3" tall, and 18" long, and if you were to turn the DH104 on its side it could easily pass as a mid-tower.

Although the front panel has been constructed from aluminum, the case is largely built using SECC steel and therefore it is quite heavy, weighing 10.8 kg / 23.78lb. The front panel is an impressive bit of craftsmanship.

The external 5.25" optical drive bay is well implemented, possibly the best one in this comparison. Unlike the Altair A381, there is no need to stick a panel directly to the optical drive. Rather the panel is built into the case and the user needs only to install the optical drive into the case without any kind of pre-treatment.

Thermaltake has also done an excellent job of hiding away the front I/O panel when not in use. In order to access the I/O ports you have to push the panel and it will fold down. Behind the panel is a single Firewire port, two USB ports, and two audio jacks. Above the front I/O panel is the hot keys module which is linked to the 7" LCD display.

The LCD touch screen supports 1024x768 which is a suitable resolution for a 7" screen. The screen itself is quite bright and I found it very easy to read, particularly when using the supplied Media LAB software. Scrolling through the menus is very easy and allows the user to access quite a large amount of information while it is also possible to control the computer. It is also possible to check your mail and even monitor network traffic which can be useful for a HTPC.

On the left side of the case we have the 7" LCD display which is recessed nicely into the front facade. Below the LCD is a traditional power button, surrounded by a ring which is used as the power light. Next to the power button is a small hard drive activity LED.

Around the back of the DH104 you will notice that Thermaltake has also painted the rear black. This gives a nice finishing touch to the exterior design. At the rear of the case a 120mm fan is evident, along with seven full length expansion slots for add-in devices. The seventh slot is being used by an external VGA cable, which is connected to the front mounted 7" LCD panel.

At the rear of the DH104 there is also a bracket for a standard ATX power supply. With the case upside down we see four gold feet, though there is no kind of ventilation in the bottom of the DH104. The side panels don"t house any kind of ventilation either, though they do have some nice aluminum inserts that are only there for aesthetic purposes. The case lid does feature additional ventilation with room for a single 80mm fan.

Then I started to look for a case and that’s where my problems began. The self-made wooden shelf in my living room that I had built around the Fujitsu Activy had a depth of 350mm and the available height for the media center was 110mm.

As the current media center stood really on the edge of the shelf, I decided to search for a low profile case that had a depth of 330mm and maximum height of 100mm.

Well I searched for 2 months and found nothing. There were a lot of cases but none of them was able to cover all my needs. Some were very flat, but their depth was always more than 330mm.

Some of the parts I did with my own tools. Especially the placement of some of the threads inside the case for the amplifier and the relay-board were not 100% clear, therefore I made them with a tap and die set.

Most dimensions for the micro-ATX board I took out of the ATX specification that is free available on the internet. The rest I measured with a caliper from existing PC cases.

One week after my order, I received my parts and started with the setup of the case. Some parts were still to file, because I forgot some notches in the self-carrying barrier (nobody is perfect  ) – you can see them on the first two pictures.

The mounting of the slot-in Blu-Ray drive was one of the hardest parts, because I had to re-solder the connection for eject button on a flexible printed circuit board which was very small. I didn’t want to use the existing eject button, because it was too small and would somehow break the design of the case.

Here is a side view of the final case. You can see the DVB-S card and the CI module on the left side. There are 3 screw holes for the upper and lower cover of the case in the side barrier.

Here you can see the case with the cover. There is not much free space in the case, but that was my goal. Being as small a possible but having all in one case.

On the next picture you can see the LCD screen behind the plexiglas. You can also see the illuminated power switch (I used a “vandalism safe” switch which has a very flat design).

This 11.9-inch HDMI LCD has a 320 X 1480p IPS capacitive touch screen. This LDC is compatible with Raspberry Pi, Mini PCs, and NVIDIA Jetson Nano. It also has an integrated USB and HDMI interface support. Its 6H toughened glass touch panel has a 5-point touch IPS display.

OS Compatibility (Raspberry Pi): functional with Raspbian (5-Touch or Driver Free) and Kali, Win10 IoT (Single-Touch or Driver Free) and Retropie (Driver Free), and Ubuntu

In case you have connected the same PC monitor with other display units, ensure that you use this LCD as the main display unit. Since this will be the only display unit that would control the cursor operating on other connected display units.

You might need an external 5V/2A power supply if you observe that the LCD is flickering. It is probable to occur if the USB cable, connected to the computer, is unable to supply adequate power.

Hi everybody! Bill Owen from Mnpctech. I hope you"re having a great day! Several people have asked if I could share the steps on how I do my Touchscreen LCD mod in PC Computer case bezels, and you’ve come to the right video!

I’ve been using this Amazon 5 Inch Capacitive Touch Screens for $52.99 delivered on Amazon Prime, I’ll posted a link in Video description. The kit comes a with Micro USB for power and HDMI video connector, but these cables are too short for these PC case mods. It includes M3 stand-offs, a Driver Disc and some Instructions. It’s a 5 point Capacitive Touch screen with a Resolution of 800 x 460, which is just fine for it’s 5” viewing screen In addition to the LCD touchscreen, I will buy the following cables for my Desktop Custom PC LCD Case Mod.

One 3ft “Right Angle” 270 degree HDMI cord, 6” 90 Degree Angle HDMI Extension Adapter, and 3ft USB Male to Micro B power connector. For Mounting the LCD Touchscreen Panel, I use 3/16” thick Black acrylic to make custom mounting brackets for the LCD touch screen.

You can PAUSE the video on this page to record the measurements that I’ve made for cutting the acrylic. This PC Case Mod is very easy. "The reason I’m making brackets for my desktop PC LCD Monitor Mod?" I want the ability to easily install or remove the Touchscreen with thumbscrews. I’m using 1/8” drill bit for acrylic, and 6/32 thread tap, These Black thumbscrews from Mnpctech.com. I’ll use the 1/8” drill bit to increase the diameter of the holes in the LCD pcb frame.

I discovered these drill bits for plastic several years ago, Notice the bit isn’t splintering or cracking the acrylic as I make the holes. Mnpctech stocks a variety of these drills bits. My mod requires Twelve 6/32 washers, and links posted in description, “Why so many washers?” We want the Touchscreen to mount flush on the backside of the bezel, I also don’t want to apply any unnecessary pressure to the screen or the PCB, See how this sheet of paper easily slides under the screen Next stage is cutting the hole in the bezel, The best PC case for this mod is the ones without optical drive bays, which every popular case manufacturer now offers.

If you’re using an older case with 5.25 drive bays, you could attach a mounting plate with 5” opening that covers THREE 5.25 bays. That’s how we did this mod in the early days of PC Modding. Determine and measure out a location in the center of your bezel, you can also mount the LCD vertically if you prefer, and just change the screen orientation in Windows. Since the bezel is plastic, I’m using a Dremel with 1.5” reinforced cut off wheel, Don’t forget to always wear eye protection when using power tools. Oops, WTH? Hahaha After cutting our 5” diagonal square hole, I’ll hand file the edges so everything is precise and clean. You may have to remove sound insulation foam from backside of your bezel, I’m using E6000 adhesive to attach the two mounting brackets. This adhesive is very GOOEY at first, so consider masking off the screen, to prevent getting any of this on it. I like that it’s tacky for couple of minutes, so I have time to position the LCD in place, and then I’ll temporarily tape it in place while it cures overnight.

Mounting your Touchscreen LCD in the PC this way allows you to easily remove and re-install the LCD at any time. Especially if you ever need to replace it for some reason. Let’s get this LCD touchscreen connected to the PC, all of the cables are routed from the front to thee rear PCI slots. *3ft “Right Angle” 270 degree HDMI cord *6” 90 Degree Angle HDMI Extension Adapter cable, I plug this compact cable into the Touchscreen to save space. *3ft USB Male to Micro B power connector This mod is great if you want an extra screen for monitoring your hardware and temps. You can also display Weather or calendar or email notifications,

Check out http://www.Rainmeter.net this community offers several hundred custom mad graphic interfaces for FREE, and you can configure your screen to display a variety of updated information tasks Thanks for watching! And Again, all of the products used in this PC case mod are listed in the video description.

Touch mehThe touch screen is a bit of an oxymoron though – you have a high detailed 800x600 display capable of a full range of colour for all sorts of funky visualisation, but the provided software makes the display monochromatic. You can link it to other applications like Winamp but there’s no easy way to truly customise the output. For example, how do you control the EQ display, file name, file size, codec, resolution, sound output and such?

Pressing the buttons activates an annoying sound you can"t turn off, and there’s no obvious place to assign them to specific tasks. They do work, but not in a way that really needs them and we don"t know why do you need buttons when you have a touch screen and a remote? It’s (an ugly) third leg at best.

However by its very nature, the home theatre PC case will likely sit a good few metres from you, so why have a touch screen as well? Last time I checked we don’t have arms twice as long as our bodies, so, why include one?

Well, there is some virtual keyboard software included, so having a touch screen to replace a physical keyboard should make it extremely useful, but even when we put this or the Windows on-screen keyboard onto the touch screen display it wouldn"t recognise finger presses. Windows Vista (Home Premium or Ultimate) does have tablet PC options but they can"t be configured with the touch screen either.

We played with the touch screen software, iMon, for quite a while but found it to be generally counterintuitive. It’s almost trying too hard to do too much and ends up being not much good at anything – the saying “jack of all trades, master of none” springs to mind. The touch screen menu system goes round in circles and it’s generally hard to understand how far into the deepest, darkest depths of submenu abyss you"ve ventured. It"s better to keep using the main display and iMedian software.

What I can"t understand is why both MCE and iMedian software insist on separating all media, so you can"t scroll between Videos and Music at the same time; instead, you have to come right out to the top level and then re-follow your footsteps back in again. Between this and the touch screen it can all work seamlessly together but we found ourselves bouncing between "this is awesome" and "this is incredibly frustrating".

Irritatingly, once you move away from the provided software, feature support just drops off – we loaded up Cyberlink PowerDVD Ultra for some High-Definition action and found the remote doesn’t work natively – there are no options within PowerDVD for remote support and there’s no generic “something is playing – what is it” option to display on the 7” LCD. This was pretty much an inevitable outcome because everything requires drivers. That said, it"s a shame there"s no co-operation between Cyberlink, one of the world’s biggest media software companies, and IR remote software makers. Even just stop, play, pause and skip would be enough.

Those intending to spend this kind of money for the 7” touch screen option are likely already enthusiastic enough to want to get it working properly in whatever software they intend to use – even if it requires considerable customisation and time spent researching and hacking bits of software together. If that"s even possible at all...

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