boat lcd display free sample

Standard built-in instruments with a diameter of 52mm are often used to display various measured values on boats. Often these can only be used for very special tasks with very special sensors. Unfortunately, the display layout differs for each task and there is no consistent appearance. While looking for a modifiable display, I came across a built-in instrument for an oil pressure display of 0… 150 psi. This display fulfills a number of requirements for a universal display:

The instrument display has the charm that you can do some things quite universally with it if you modify it a little. Without modification the following would be possible:

I disassembled the part and checked what was installed there. To do this, I had to bend open the black aluminum front frame from behind and remove it from the display housing. If you do it carefully, you can reattach the front frame later and continue to use it. The simplest microcontroller technology is built into the display itself:

The microcontroller processes 0… 5V voltage signals at the analog input AIN3, whereby only 0… 2.5V is used as the actual useful signal. This then corresponds to 0… 100% of the display value (or 0… 200 Ohm from the sensor). Voltages greater than 4.6V are recognized as a faulty sensor signal and the numbers "- - -" appear. There is a place on the circuit board where you can feed your own sensor signal 0 ... 2.5V if the sensor is not connected. The ground reference is GND of the supply voltage. For your own applications you would have to generate a voltage signal of 0 ... 2.5V that is proportional to the measured variable. The sensor signal could be recorded with an ESP8266, for example, and transferred to the display as an analog output value. With a little skill you can even get it into the same housing. It would also be conceivable to print a separate housing that is slightly longer towards the rear and could accommodate the additional electronics. If you spin a little further, you could also send any measured values from SignalK via WLAN to the display and display them. With a suitable cover or a black marker pen, you could mask out the elements that are not required so that you can no longer see them. A new lettering could also be provided on the faceplate. EasyESP would be the ideal candidate for a software connection to SignalK, as there is almost finished software for this.

If you buy such a display, you have to be careful to buy the right one. The display is offered in different versions. With other versions, the modification must look different. I have currently seen the following variants:

For commissioning, the red, yellow and white cables must be connected to + 12V and the black cable to GND. P3 or P4 can be used equally. An additional display can be supplied with power with an enclosed bridge cable. Alternatively, the red and yellow cables can be permanently connected to + 12V and the black to GND. When the white wire (ignition) is then connected to + 12V, the display comes on. Before that it is in stand-by and consumes approx. 10 mA. All settings made via the button are not lost after a complete power cut-off.

Since the display and processing unit are basically separate, the green circuit board with the STM8 could also be replaced by a dedicated circuit board with an ESP8266. The display chip HT1621B, the lighting and the buzzer can be controlled via the connector JP1. The only problem is to find out which segments of the LCD display are assigned to which bit in the HT1621B. However, this should be quite easy to do with a test program that controls all segments one after the other. The advantage of having your own circuit board would be that you then have it in your own hands how to control the display and which values are displayed.

Theoretically, you could also have an LCD built in China according to your own requirements. For a pure LCD display, no more than 5 ... 10 euros are called for small quantities. Basically, the display is almost perfect except for the missing decimal point and the representation of the unit. Theoretically, you could also remove the fixed numbers and the lower name in the display and replace them with bright areas. Then you could create panels with transparent laser-printed plastic films with which the light areas are covered again. So you could design the display very flexibly and create new scales and labels. Unfortunately, the scale and the lettering below are not just printed elements of the display. Then you could have easily removed the labels afterwards. As a manufacturer, Bezel uses different LCD glasses for its various instruments, which are adapted to the special tasks.

It switches automatically between screens/information based on priorities, thus enabling the user to focus on their boating experience. The display will issue a warning/notification long before a situation becomes critical.

Install a jog wheel anywhere on your boat and connect it to the NMEA2000 network. Pressing and rotating the wheel enables the user to switch screens and setup any of the instrument’s parameters.

E500 is a multifunctional intelligent instrument that keeps an eye on your boat by monitoring different parameters over the NMEA2000 network. Relevant data is displayed on a sunlight readable 5″ LCD to capture the boat operator’s attention. For example when the boat is entering shallow waters, the content of the LCD screen changes to DEPTH and a sound alarm is issued.

curl https://raw.githubusercontent.com/bareboat-necessities/my-bareboat/master/raspberrypi-ui-mods/usr/share/raspi-ui-overrides/desktop-directories/Navigation.directory > Navigation.directory && \

curl https://raw.githubusercontent.com/bareboat-necessities/my-bareboat/master/raspberrypi-ui-mods/etc/xdg/menus/lxde-pi-applications.menu > lxde-pi-applications.menu && \

curl https://raw.githubusercontent.com/bareboat-necessities/my-bareboat/master/raspberrypi-ui-mods/usr/share/raspi-ui-overrides/desktop-directories/Radio.directory > Radio.directory && \

curl https://raw.githubusercontent.com/bareboat-necessities/my-bareboat/master/raspberrypi-ui-mods/etc/xdg/menus/lxde-pi-applications.menu > lxde-pi-applications.menu && \

Learning how to navigate a boat is one of the most important things any boat owner must learn. Essentially, nautical navigation is no more than knowing how to get from Point A to Point B. But the process can be a whole lot more challenging than simply pointing the bow in the right direction.

Just a few short decades ago we didn’t have electronics like GPS and chartplotters. And going back for thousands of years, mariners have been studying how to safely get across rivers, bays, and oceans. No matter where you’re navigating or what type of boat you’re on, the number-one tool you use while navigating is your own eyes. Beyond that, standard navigation tools include:

A compass and/or hand bearing compass: A compass tells you which direction your boat is heading in, north, south, east, or west, as measured in degrees relative to magnetic north. There are 360 degrees representing a full circle, with 0 degrees to the north, 180 degrees to the south, 90 degrees to the east, and 270 degrees to the west. A hand-bearing compass can be utilized to quickly take multiple “bearings” (the direction of a course, or the direction to an item or place) of multiple visible landmarks.

First, use your hand-bearing compass to “shoot” a bearing to the first landmark (or, if you only have the compass mounted at your helm, point the entire boat directly at it to acquire the bearing). Line up your parallel rules on the chart’s compass rose (the illustrated circle marked with degrees) to match the degree of the bearing you shot. Note that there are two circles of degrees on the rose, one (the outer ring) representing true north and the other (the inner ring) representing magnetic north. Use the inner magnetic ring, because your compass points to magnetic north, not true north. Then, walk the rules across the chart by holding down one side and moving the other towards your landmark, one after the other. When an edge of your parallel rule intersects with the landmark, use your pencil to trace a line down the rule’s edge.

WARNING: Never mix up MPH and nautical miles per hour, or knots. Mathematically you can use either when making these calculations—but not both. Since nautical charts measure distance in nautical miles (which equal 1.15 “statute,” or regular miles) it’s always best to stick with knots and nautical miles (NM) when navigating a boat with traditional means.

Let’s say your boat cruises at 20 knots, to keep the math simple. And let’s say you know you’re at position X at high noon, when a light fog rolls in. You can still see well enough to continue on your cruise at 20 knots, but visibility is limited to a couple of miles and your familiar landmarks are now out of sight. On your chart, you create a route home that calls for a five NM leg on a bearing of 200 degrees, and a second 10 NM leg on a bearing of 250 degrees. Divide five (distance) by 20 (speed) to get 0.25, which tells you that you’ll need to cruise for a quarter of an hour at 200 degrees. You use your watch or stopwatch to keep track of time, and at 12:15, stop the boat. Now record the time and your estimated position. Then turn to 250 degrees, draw your next course line, and again record your speed and bearing. Now you’ll need to divide 10 by 20, and you’ll know that you should reach your destination in half an hour.

Every mariner should understand basic traditional navigation, because you never know when your electronics will fail you. But truth be told, the vast majority of today’s boaters will almost always do their navigation on an LCD screen. The good news? Electronic navigation is far, far easier than using traditional methods. There’s bad news, too: those electronics can cost big bucks. When considering navigational marine electronics, you’ll need to choose among the following:

AIS – Automatic Identification Systems are transmitters and/or receivers that identify most commercial ships and boats. They’re important for navigation because they can expose unseen dangers that lie along your course line, such as tugs and barges that are around the next bend of the river. Even if you don’t have an AIS system, when you’re within cell range you can access much of the information provided by AIS using an app like Shipfinder on your cell phone.

Fishfinder/depthsounder – Although depth soundings are on the digital charts used by chartplotters, they aren’t always accurate. Plus, depth can change with the tides or a lake or river’s changing water levels. So a depth sounder becomes invaluable when navigating through waters that may not provide sufficient draft for your boat.

MFDs – Multifunction displays are informational hubs that sit at your helm, and can integrate all of the electronic units listed here onto one LCD screen.

Most boaters don"t need all of these units. On most inland lakes, for example, radar and AIS aren’t exactly necessities. So, how will you know which unit(s) are appropriate for the type of boating you do? We thoroughly addressed this question, in Marine Electronics.

Let’s take a closer look at this little magical box of tricks in specific. It allows you to perform those key navigational tasks we identified earlier—locating your position, creating routes and bearings, and determining reciprocal courses. And it makes ded reckoning obsolete, since you always know where you are at a glance. Its digital maps, called “chartography” in nautical parlance, can be more or less detailed depending on quality and cost. Most are based on the data originally gathered by NOAA and/or by private services, and can be updated or geographically expanded either by adding a chart data card or by using a WiFi link. Many of the latest units can even be updated in real time using the data gathered by your depth sounder and GPS. To learn more about the latest in marine chartography, read Chart Transplant. And to see how a chartography update works, watch Boating Tips: Chartography and Software Updates for Chartplotters.

Locating your position on a chartplotter is as easy as looking for the boat icon on the LCD screen. It will be clearly visible on the digital map, with the exact latitude and longitude identified via the unit’s GPS receiver, and displayed somewhere on-screen. It’s as simple as that.

To create a route on a chartplotter, move the cursor to the position you want to go to, and press a button to create a waypoint. In the case of many touch-screen units, instead of pressing a button you’ll merely tap the screen. Press a “go to” button, and your bearing to that waypoint will be displayed. Turning the waypoint into a route is as easy as making more waypoints, or in some cases, pressing a “route” button so the unit automatically joins multiple waypoints together into a route. In most cases, your chartplotter will offer a steering screen that displays a digital compass or numerically displays your bearing, course, and other important information like time to destination, speed, and course error.

With over two decades of experience in marine journalism, Lenny Rudow has contributed to publications including YachtWorld, boats.com, Boating Magazine, Marlin Magazine, Boating World, Saltwater Sportsman, Texas Fish & Game, and many others. Lenny is a graduate of the Westlawn School of Yacht Design, and he has won numerous BWI and OWAA writing awards.

Several types of remote controls for boat audio are available to add flexibility to your setup. A marine stereo with a wired remote allows you to place a full set of controls on a wall or desk. These items have all the features of the matching receivers and are built to the same weather-resistant standards. Some systems also come with a handheld remote control to give you even more freedom. A marine Wi-Fi remote module with app control links to your smartphone, making it the most convenient way to adjust levels whenever you’re in range.

It"s hard to believe GPS only became fully operational in 1995. GPS, the acronym for Global Positioning System, uses satellites to send signals down to earth, which, when received by suitable equipment, can display very accurate positioning data. Currently there are 34 active and healthy GPS satellites orbiting the earth; four of these must be "visible" to the GPS receiver at any one time for a satisfactory fix.

A GPS receiver may simply show latitude and longitude and calculate and display motion data; course and speed over the ground, or it may depict position on a built-in chart or map. They are available as small, handheld, battery-powered units, as stand-alone navigation receivers, or combined with or housed within, chartplotters of varying size, capability, complexity, and cost. Most, if not all, smartphones incorporate a GPS receiver and with a suitable app it"s possible to use these as a small handheld navigation tool, offering much of the functionality of the smaller stand-alone GPS units. A characteristic of units sold for marine use is their ability to store position information in a waypoint library, and provide the user with bearing, distance, elapsed time, time of arrival, and deviation from the direct path to the waypoint. GPS also provides the user with precise time information.

Choice of a handheld or a fixed-mount GPS usually depends on the type of boat it will be used on. For small, open boats the ability to clip the handheld into place when it is needed, and secure it in a locker at other times can be very valuable. The built in antenna must have a clear view of the sky for proper functioning, so these units do not always function well below decks. Although handheld units can operate from built-in batteries, it is usually best to connect the GPS to the boat"s 12-volt system whenever possible. It"s also a good idea to remove the unit"s internal alkaline batteries when they are not in use. Most handheld units have a small LCD screen on which data and a plotted position and waypoints can be displayed. The plot of the vessel"s track can be quite valuable, for example, when retracing the route out of a shallow cove. Some display chart information, however the primary value of the chart display will be to aid the navigator in fixing his vessel"s position with reference to a proper navigation chart.

GPS equipment powered from the boat"s electrical system may shut down when the supply voltage momentarily decreases when starting an engine. While most equipment will recover in less than a minute, even a short interruption in data may be inconvenient, which in some cases can lead to the loss of stored waypoints and tracking information. Connecting the GPS and other electronics to a battery separate from the engine starting battery will eliminate the momentary shutdown problem.

Youve made an offer on a used boat and have retained a marine surveyor to examine the vessel prior to completing the transaction. One of the more important things he or she will do is make some sort of assessment about the condition of the hull. Delamination of the skins from the core or osmotic blisters are serious problems and may cause you to nix the deal.

Still, the prudent buyer and surveyor will want some indication of a hulls level of wetness. To determine this, the most common tool is the moisture meter. These small, handheld devices, generally costing less than $500, were originally developed for other industries, such as timber, roofing and building trades. They were adopted by the marine industry, but in many cases the makers of these instruments have made no real effort to modify them for use on fiberglass. Hence, the readings one might get from a fiberglass hull must be extrapolated from a scale designed for wood or concrete. This is your first clue that the moisture meter is an imperfect device for determining moisture levels in a fiberglass boats hull.

Before undertaking any major repairs, retain an independent surveyor, rather than rely on your boat yards recommendation. After all, its the yard which stands to make a profit on your repairs.

Last year, we collaborated with marine surveyor, Jonathan Klopman of Marblehead, Massachusetts, in the testing of five leading brands of moisture meters-Sovereign, Tramex Skipper, Caisson Novanex, Protimeter Aquant and Protimeter Surveymaster SM. Prior to these tests, Klopman, sponsored by Professional Boatbuilder magazine, also distributed a questionnaire to 94 fellow surveyors. The results are eye-opening.

Most moisture meters are of the capacitance type. These meters have two electrodes or sensors, one that transmits an AC signal and another that receives it. Because water has a much higher dielectric constant or permitivity than air or fiberglass, the difference in strength between the transmitted and received signal can be measured and displayed on the meter, either by an analog needle or digitally in an LCD window.

After two series of bench tests, the first conducted by one of our contributing editors, a nuclear physicist, and a second series conducted by Klopman and PS staff, we took them to several boat yards and tried all five meters on a variety of hulls, some known to be wet, some blistered, and some dry.

With all meters, the readings would be quite low with a thick laminate, which could lead an inexperienced user to conclude that there isn’t much moisture present. This is especially confusing where the meters scale incorporates colored zones-green (good or low), yellow (fair or moderate) and red (bad or high), or colored lights, as in the case of the Protimeter Aquant and Surveymaster. What this means is that a moisture meter cannot tell you where the water is in the laminate or precisely how much. A lot of moisture deep in the laminate may give the same reading as a small amount of moisture near the surface. Knowing the thickness of a hull laminate ahead of testing is helpful, but in many boats wont be known. Plus, thickness varies throughout the laminate, from topsides to bottom, and even within the same general area.

As a side note, glycol, a byproduct of the resins used in boats and the cause of some blistering, will not freeze and can be detected in sub-freezing weather.

Made in Ireland, the Tramex has an analog display with three scales. The transducer consists of two large pads on the backside of the same plastic case used by the Caisson Novanex.

The transmitter head is along the forward end of the case and has a small footprint. To take readings, a single button is pushed. Readings are displayed by lighting up individual LED lights.

A relatively new product, the Surveymaster has a display similar to the Aquant, but the scale is different. Also, the transducer head is on the backside of the meter, covered with plastic, but easy to rock. The remote head and separate probes are attractive features. When using the remote head, the reading is displayed in a small LCD window.

In use, meter readings first should be taken in areas believed to be dry or at least typical of above water laminate. So, before checking the bottom, take readings in several areas of the topsides to obtain a general base number. Then begin testing the bottom. If the boat has just been hauled, allow some time for surface moisture to evaporate. It is best to scrape away the bottom paint and place the meters head directly on clean gelcoat.

Readings that vary significantly from the base may be worth investigating, certainly if there are blisters present. But if no blisters are present, even high readings may not correctly indicate problems in the laminate. When this is the case, you may elect to do nothing, at least for the time being. If the boat has been hauled for the winter, check again in the spring. If readings are still high (and they probably wont change a great deal if the laminate is extremely wet because it is difficult for the moisture to evaporate when entrapped), then you might consider lab analysis of a core sample or grinding down the gelcoat to reveal the inner plies of the laminate.

All Jones Brothers boats come with Yamaha Command Link Plus.  Command Link Plus is a rigging system that includes wiring harnesses, network hub(s) and components. This system creates a computer network on a boat, and all the Yamaha components use the network to communicate between devices. If a Yamaha NEMA 2000 Gateway is added to the network, external (non-Yamaha) NEMA 2000-compliant devices can also access information from the Command Link Plus network. The Command Link Plus system works on both mechanical and digital shift Yamaha outboard motors.

By default, our boats use the Yamaha 6YC button-operated LCD screen. The gauge uses the Command Link Plus network to monitor critical boat systems (e.g. fuel usage/levels and engine water pressure), operating conditions (e.g. surface water temperature), and the performance of up to two outboards on a button-operated LCD screen.

Most of the boats sold by Jones Brothers have both mechanical (XB) and digital (XCA) engine purchase options. The Yamaha mechanical XB outboards use an older technology utilizing physical throttle control cables and are somewhat less expensive than the digital models. The newer digital XCA motors are “fly-by-wire” where throttle settings are transmitted over the Command Link Plus network to the engine(s) – no control cables or linkages are required. The throttle used by XCA motors is called a Digital Electronic Control (DEC). If ever required, rigging a second helm station is much simpler with digital controls.

Due to cost, buyers often select mechanical motors. If at some point in the future you decide to re-power your Jones Brothers boat with a digital fly-by-wire motor, contrary to what you might read on the internet, the upgrade is relatively easy due to the fact that a Jones Brothers boat already includes both the Command Link Plus system and an LCD gauge that supports both digital and mechanical engines.

The Yamaha Autopilot package – The Autopilot system includes a small panel on the console, a heading sensor under the console, an antenna above the boat, and a control unit. The system features single-touch heading hold, course hold, pattern steer, or the ability to follow waypoints.

Note: In a single-engine application, the Helm Master EX joystick does not offer the complete boat control options available with multiple engines; it cannot make the boat walk sideways up to a dock or spin within its length, and StayPoint, which maintains a fixed heading and position, does not function with a single motor. What it does give the pilot is instant, fingertip control of steering, throttle and shifting. Plus, the power steering can turn the motor from lock-to-lock in less than two seconds. The majority of joystick functions are still available for single-engine configurations:FishPoint Bow

All boats built by Jones Brothers Marine qualify for the Yamaha PowerMatched system warranty. This gives buyers a warranty on the entire power system, which matches the three-year warranty that comes with the four-stroke engine. In addition to the engine warranty, the PowerMatched warranty includes:Digital Gauges

styling of analog gauges. Digital stepper motors accurately display data in real time. Fluorescent pointers and large bold graphics make these instruments easy to ready at a glance.

While lcd displays are wholesale flexible, lcdds are a more flexible option and don"t have the same functions as a smartphone. In other words, lcdds are wholesale as they are more flexible and don"t have the same functions as a lightweight smartphone.

Lcd displays offer a more basic display, and don"t differ in the way they are used. Both amable LCD display and aID-displaying display of the two brands.

Customers can want the same functions for lcds, but it is important to know that the screen functions more with lcds. Check out lcd display and enable more functions than one with a smartphone display.