how to clean ipad lcd screen supplier

To clean your Apple Pencil, use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. With the damp cloth, wipe your Apple Pencil from the tip end—but not the tip itself—toward the other end of your Apple Pencil. Don’t allow moisture to get inside the seam between the tip and the body of your Apple Pencil.

To clean your polyurethane Smart Keyboard, Smart Keyboard Folio, Smart Cover, or Smart Case, first remove it from the iPad. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Wipe the front and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth.

Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean this product.

To clean your Magic Keyboard, first remove it from the iPad. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Wipe the front and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth. You may use a 70 percent isopropyl alcohol wipe or Clorox Disinfecting Wipes. Avoid getting moisture in any opening, and don"t submerge your Magic Keyboard in any cleaning agents. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean this product.

The iPad leather cover/case is made from natural leather. Its appearance will change as you use it. It might acquire a patina and might change color due to the oils from your skin and direct sunlight, further enhancing the natural look.

Cleaning the leather might affect its color. If you choose to clean the leather, first remove the cover/case from your iPad. Use a clean cloth with warm water and mild hand soap to gently clean the leather. Wipe the outside and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove any dirt. You can also use a mild cleaner along with a dry clean cloth. Mild cleaners or conditioners might help remove some stains but might also change the color of the leather.

Keep your iPad leather cover/case away from prolonged intense sunlight, heat, and humidity. Exposure to water, oil, makeup, and dyed materials (such as denim) can stain tanned leathers.

To clean your iPad Silicone Case, remove your iPad from the case. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth to wipe the outside and the inside of the case. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean the iPad case.

I used to have this same problem, but not any more. I came up with the perfect method of cleaning the LCD panel. First of all, I had no idea that alcohol would damage the LCD. I normally use 90% Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning everything on the smartphones and tablets that I repair. I might change that back to a pre-mixed 50% solution, but the 50% does not remove grease as well. I honestly don"t think a 1-time cleaning using the 90% will cause a problem. I could believe that continued cleaning with the alcohol could cause damage, however.

What works best for me is to follow this 3-step procedure. And take note, scrubbing an LCD with a back-and-forth motion will only get you frustrated, just as the previous poster had mentioned. I"ve been there, rubbing on an LCD for upwards of an hour, only ending with the same grease smudges that I started with. Well anyway, here"s my 3-step process:

1. Using a micro fiber or dust-free cloth, or even a soft toilet paper, put a liberal amount of the alcohol on your cleaning cloth and use "flood-strokes" on the LCD in one direction ONLY. Wipe down the LCD in as few strokes as possible, as wide of a stroke as you can with your cleaning cloth or TP. You should use enough alcohol that it leaves a wet film on the LCD.

2. Blow dry (with your mouth or a heat gun on low) the alcohol. It will disappear very quickly. If you see any spots, repeat step 1, and then do this again. You will see residue on the screen, but it should be very uniform, and in the direction that your flood strokes were in step 1. If you do this right, you may not see any streaks at all.

3. Using your hot breath (hopefully your breath isn"t so bad that you melt the LCD, so be careful here), steam up the surface of the LCD and use the lint-free cloth to wipe the steam. This will get rid of all the residue left behind by the alcohol. It"s okay to wipe in a back-and-forth motion when using the hot-steamy-breath application of moisture. In only 5 minutes, your LCD should be completely free of streaks, grease, and dirt. Blow away any excess lint, and get the glass digitizer put on it as quickly as you can before your LCD attracts dust out of the air.

One thing I would also recommend is that you have a good filter in your HVAC system. Some people I know of actually use a hood that forces air through a filter, and into the hood. This way, you don"t have any ambient air coming into contact with your LCD, because you are operating in a positive-pressure environment with incoming air that is filtered, and thus exhausting into the room after leaving the hood.

I will be writing a post on this and possibly doing a video for my blog site, which is the Carlton Zone Blog. Check the site soon. I would be glad to post videos and advice for repairs, because I do a lot of this.

Nix to the wipes... Defently no baby wipes. One person in another thread ask if Windex was ok. Windex has ammonia in it. Ammonia is a mild abrasive liquid that can not only remove the coasting but scratch the glass.

The best material to use is 100% cotton. Cotton balls will work. You can buy cotton balls in a package of 100. Cotton won"t harm the coating or scratch the glass. Make sure you don"t buy synthetic cotton. Synthetic cotton will scratch the surface.. Clean the glass in a circular motion. If you clean the glass in a back and forth motion you will put what is called sleeks (permanent streaks) in the coating. To remove grim, place one drop of water onto a cotton ball and clean the glass in circular motion. Then use three-four cotton balls to finish to job. You can use the cotton balls three or four times then trash them.

(I"ve used the above method to clean high-end optics costing $50,000+. I used distilled water with one capful of alcohol mixed the water. The alcohol is used to break the water tension. You can use plain just plain water.)

It is always best to follow manufacturer’s suggestions for product care, but generally it is safe to clean an LCD screen using a very soft, 100% cotton cloth, and a mixture of distilled water and clear vinegar. If you prefer buying ready-made products, LCD cleaners are available from electronics shops in spray bottles.

While it might be tempting to use an old tee shirt for a cotton cloth, the seams can potentially scratch the screen. Flannel is the recommended material, and you can visit a fabric shop and buy a yard (0.9 meters) of 100% untreated cotton flannel for very little money. By purchasing this amount of fabric, you’ll be able to cut new cloths when the old one gets dirty. Microfiber cloth is also a good choice.

While many people use isopropyl alcohol in a 50/50 solution with distilled water, some manufacturers warn against this. If you are inclined to use isopropyl rather than vinegar, check with the manufacturer’s website of your LCD product to be sure this is acceptable. Many store-bought LCD cleaners contain isopropyl, and it is generally considered safe and effective.

Otherwise, a 50/50 solution of distilled water and white vinegar can be combined in a spray bottle. Avoid using a bottle that had previous cleaners or agents in it — a new spray bottle can be purchased at the grocery store. Choose a sprayer that is capable of a fine mist.

Cut a piece of cloth large enough to fold into a nice square pad that is a few layers thick. Spray your 50/50 solution on to the surface of the cloth, lightly dampening it. Be sure the cloth isn"t so wet that it will drip down the screen. Do not spray the solution directly on to the LCD screen.

Before you clean an LCD screen, power it off to avoid potential damage. Take your cloth and gently wipe the surface from top to bottom, moving downward in a straight line. When you reach the bottom lift the cloth away and place it at the top again to proceed. Use a very light touch, as pressing against the screen could damage its pixels.

Do not move the cloth in a circular motion to rub out fingerprints or smudges. The solution will do the trick. If you have to cover an area twice, wait until its dry, then repeat the process. The vinegar should cut through any dirt or body oils deposited on the screen. By following this simple procedure, your screen should stay clear and unblemished.

Never use paper towels, napkins, or tissues to clean an LCD screen. These materials will either scratch the screen or leave debris. Household cleaners and ammonia should also be avoided, as they can leave a white cast, ruining the screen’s finish.

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Bring up the iPad mini in a conversation with the repair community and you will hear a roar of “Oh, I HATE the mini” This device is a booby trap for many—from its sensitive backlight circuit, its prissy taping requirements, and the well-intentioned but misleading how to videos on YouTube. Compound that with an ocean of low quality mini screens flooding the domestic marketplace, and it is easy to see why the poor mini is so hated.

Like many of you, my first mini repair got thrown against the wall. But after learning dozens of lessons from her the hard way, she has shown me all of her secrets. As high maintenance as she is, the iPad mini has now become my favorite device to repair. I have fixed thousands of minis and my little bff no longer gives me any trouble.

I will now share those secrets coaxed from the sisterhood of minis, so that you too can come to enjoy her purse-sized loveliness and repair her without fear.

I will walk you through an iPad mini screen replacement step by step and point out all the many things I’ve learned the hard way (TILTHW) as we go. Hopefully by following along you can skip over some of these expensive lessons yourself.

This step is straightforward and similar to any other glass digitizer. Apply your favorite heat source and work your way around the mini to free the glass from the frame.

The iPad mini LCD is deceptively thin, and it doesn’t like to flex or bend at all. To get it out, you’ll need to use two plastic spudgers to gently coax it up off the underlying LCD shield. Just slide the spudgers in on opposite sides to separate the LCD from the mid frame shield and work your way down to the bottom. The LCD will come up, but still be attached at the bottom. You can cut through the cloth tape to free the bottom of the LCD. The two cloth tape rolls at the bottom of the LCD are optional and can be removed.

You can unscrew straight through the grey foam adhesive on two of the LCD screws and leave that foam stuck to the screw head—this will help you on reassembly.

If you accidentally put your spudger UNDER the big metal LCD shield, instead of between the LCD and the shield, you will use too much force and crack the LCD.

If you have done several mini WiFis, you may not realize that the mini 4G cellular versions have black tape that needs to be cut at the TOP of the LCD/cellular antenna area. If you don’t know this, you will use too much force and crack the LCD.

If you bend the LCD shield, then after reassembly it will cause a lift on the LCD which will translate into an “oil spot” on the screen where the LCD is touching the digitizer.

THIS IS A BIG ONE—-Disconnect the battery before any of the connectors. Failure to do so sets you up classically to blow the iPad mini backlight filter/fuse.

Here’s the deal with the iPad mini backlight failure. Having tried to duplicate this many times, I can tell you that you can rip that LCD connector right off, even when the LCD is fully powered on at full brightness and not affect the filter.

Surprising, no? The problem is in the *way* you pull the connector. There is some juice going through the connector even with the iPad is powered off. The LCD connector itself has its hot power pin right next to a ground pin. If you are trying to be careful, you can easily lift off the connector in a way where the hot pin is momentarily shorted to the ground pin. This sudden discharge of voltage will melt the inner core of the backlight filter, aka fuse. After that happens, you won’t have a backlight again until you replace that component. You can *see* the melted backlight filter in classic cases—-there will be a tiny pin prick of solder oozing from the center of the filter. That breaks continuity in the backlight circuit and the screen will not light.

The solution is just to always pull the battery connector first, killing all juice through the connector, and you’ll never get a backlight problem again.

THIS IS ANOTHER BIG ONE—-Pull the battery connector up from the battery side, not the board side. Failure to do so sets you up for a battery percentage/charging problem.

The gas gauge line extends from the battery and goes through a filter, FL7500, right next to the battery connector and on to the logic chips. If your fingernail flicks that filter off, then when you lift the battery connector from the board side, you break this line of communication.

Once that happens, the board gets no more information on the battery percentage. So the battery percentage will stay fixed and only change at reboot. You will notice that the iPad mini is reporting whatever percentage the battery happened to have when this happened. It will not increase nor decrease. You may interpret this as “hey it’s not charging” but it is charging—-it just doesn’t know it. Any effort you make to replace the battery and solder in a new charge port is a waste of time. The solution is only to replace the missing filter. There is nothing more sad than when I get a mini in that is missing solder pads at the charge port from a hopeful DIY charge port replacement job, and I look over and sure the FL7500 battery filter is missing. It never needed a charge port.

If you see that the mini is telling you that is has plenty of charge—-perhaps a lie, the board has no idea what the actual percentage is—-then you may wonder why your mini begins to boot loop. Apple logo, dark, Apple logo, dark….

Boot looping happens (in this case) because the *actual* battery percentage has dropped so low that it can’t support powering on the iPad. But the logic board doesn’t “know” this. It “thinks” the battery percentage is still high. The low battery logic—-warnings and prompting you to plug in to charge—-do not happen. The boot loop is just the continual effort of the mini to boot off a dead battery—while telling you that the battery is fine.

The solution is again—just replace the FL7500 filter. All the restores in the world will not cure this hardware defect. Worse, if you just plug it in to charge, eventually the boot loop will resolve as the mini charges up. You will then exclaim—Aha! I solved it! It was *insert bogus reason that was the thing you happened to be doing when the mini charged up enough to boot* Aha! It just needed foam on the digitizer! Aha! It just needed the magnets transferred! Aha! It just needed a day in a bag of rice! —-This is how the repair forums of the internet get clogged with mini mis-information.

If you experience any of these problems—look first at the battery connector for damage to FL7500. Better yet, just get in the habit of pulling up the iPad mini connector from the battery side and you’ll never flick that sucker off to begin with.

Pause and think for a minute before you pull the digitizer connector. More than any other repair, we see iPad minis coming in that are missing gold teeth from the digitizer connector socket. The connector is a simple little thing—built like a McDonald’s toy. It is a cheap piece of plastic holding together a row of gold pins. It is too flimsy to repair, so when it is damaged by, say, a particularly good sneeze—then it must be replaced by your friendly microsolderer. This can happen both on removal of the digitizer flex, and on connection. Once it happens to you, it rarely happens again. It seems that an awareness of its extreme fragility is all you need for immunity to this problem.

Pay attention to the way the original digitizer flex is lying as you remove the flex and touch ic chip. It is bowed toward the LCD and fits snugly in the gap between the bottom of the LCD and frame. It does not have a crease of any kind. It does NOT bend back toward the frame or touch any of the adhesive on the digitizer. On reassembly—you must make the digitizer flex match the original—-or else you’ll be buying a new digitizer when you find that you no longer have touch function due to a crease in your flex.

This is the key to a professional quality screen replacement vs a DIY job. We use Scotch 3M Sticker remover pens to scrub off the old adhesive, then wipe that off and clean any residue with alcohol. Others use razor blades or just alcohol. It probably doesn’t matter which method you use, as long as you do it.

Next, straighten your frame. There are commercial tools, such as “the G-tool” to help mold banged corners and sidewalls back into Apple original shape. Alternatively a dremel tool can help file down any spots that would keep the digitizer from sitting perfectly flush and square.

If you don’t straighten the frame, your new glass will sit on TOP of the frame and create a pressure point. The next day, the mini will be back with a thumb-sized hole in the glass

1.) Transfer the magnets from the old digitizer to the new. The magnets have no electrical or signaling function despite what the internet may tell you. Their only job is to hold magnetic mini cases closed—-like the popular Smart Cover. You might think this is silly, and be tempted to omit the magnets. You can, and the mini will suffer no functional effects. However, if you think of a smart covered mini rattling around in a purse, with the smart cover flopping open, and pennies and half-melted M&Ms sliding across the glass, you might take the 10 seconds to transfer the magnets to the new glass.

2.) Taping. You must make sure the solder joints on the touch ic/digitizer flex junction are covered with tape. You must also tape over the exposed copper on the home flex, and ideally, the entire bottom of the digitizer if your screen doesn’t have pre-installed cloth tape like the original. Use kapton tape—google this if you don’t have it. Other tapes won’t hold up well to heat and be a gummy mess at the next screen change. Make your new screen match your original screen.

3.) Check your screen for quality. More than any other part out there, it is difficult for the parts distributors to source quality iPad mini screens. There just aren’t a lot of them available. The market is flooded with low quality iPad mini digitizers—-the worst being commonly sold on eBay for cheap to people who don’t any better—yet!

4.) The dry fit test. The iPad mini digitizer should have good touch function, fit snugly in the frame and have home button function. But that’s not all. You should also check that the top power button is functioning before you seal the mini—-strange as it may seem, the top power button is routed through the digitizer home flex. Also press around the bottom of the digitizer. The smart cover lock/unlock function is part of the home flex. A poor solder joint on the home flex can inappropriately activate the lock/unlock function when this area of the screen is pressed.

Failure to dry fit = not realizing you have a bump in your big LCD shield/shard of glass/“lost”screw that is snugged to the magnetic frame——> “oil spot” where LCD is lifted and contacts the digitizer.

After the dry fit test, screw in all screws back in the exact spots they came from to secure the small connector shield, the large LCD shield and the LCD. Put on surgical gloves. Pull the backing from the pre-installed adhesive on the screen, or use red tape adhesive. Pull the clear covering protecting the inner surface of digitizer. Use compressed air to blow any dust from the LCD. For any pre-existing marks on the LCD, use just the humidity from your breath and a new microfiber cloth to wipe away. Paying careful attention to make sure the digitizer flex bends toward the LCD, lay the screen down starting by aligning the two bottom corners, then the two top corners. Be sure the camera bracket fits into the camera bracket holder before pushing to seal the digitizer. Apply gentle heat and press all sides to form a perfect seal. I do not find that any additional pressure or clamping is necessary. If you see a lift at the bottom of the screen near the flex, reposition the magnet so the screen sits perfectly flush. Never use any liquid adhesive. The screen will fit perfectly professionally flush without any funky tricks—if not, figure out where you went wrong.

See you later, dirty television screens. Whether your TV screens are challenged by dust or inconvenient smudges that seem to appear from nowhere, it’s time to adopt a simple cleaning routine that takes care of all that. Get your screen clean pronto, and then kick back and enjoy the show.

Before you start guessing at what will work for your home’s needs, refer to the owner"s manual that came with your television. It’s always best to get advice from the manufacturer, especially if there’s a warranty involved; however, if that document has long since hit the recycling bin, follow these tips and take necessary precautions so you don’t cause permanent damage to the pixels and electrical components.

Different screens require different cleaning agents, and though we address how to clean old school glass-screen tube TVs and glass-coated iPad screens below, we know it’s more likely that you’re dealing with a flatscreen LCD or plasma television. TL;DR: Avoid abrasion. Avoid excess moisture. Avoid harsh chemicals.

Use soft, lint-free microfiber cloths and nothing rough or abrasive. Even paper towels can scratch a television, and plasma screens in particular are very delicate.

Always refer to manufacturer guidelines for cleaning and play it safe if there’s any doubt, especially if the only cleaners you have on hand are harsh chemicals with a bad reputation.

Remove dust with a dry microfiber cloth. Wipe around all edges of the screen too, because dust buildup on ports and speakers can negatively affect performance over time.

Mist a formulated cleaning spray onto a clean microfiber cloth; you can opt for store-bought or try an easy DIY solution, such as 1:1 parts of white vinegar and distilled water, or 1:4 parts distilled water to 70% isopropyl alcohol. These formulas may dry at different rates, so be sure that you don’t oversaturate your cloth.

If you’re using a vinegar- or alcohol-based cleaner, thoroughly wipe down the remote with the damp microfiber cloth you used to clean the television screen.

Big tip: Remove the batteries first so you don’t accidentally turn on the TV (and undoubtedly, push the magic combination of buttons that turns on subtitles and changes your settings to German … you know how it is).

Many screws will be removed and then re-installed when replacing the screen. The screws are of different sizes and length. You should mark each screw and related assembly with a number so that you can recognize them easily. If you put a screw into a wrong place, your phone could get damaged.

To prevent equipment damage, make sure you start your repair in a static-free environment. Use a rubber mat - one designed for anti-static or just a household table place mat.

IMPORTANT From our experience, after failing to install an LCD assembly the first time, when you try to install it by connecting the connector to the motherboard the second time static will be generated and it will damage the IC on the flex cable or connector rendering the assembly defective. Thus, when replacing the LCD screen assembly, you should always remember to have an anti-static wristband on your hand or other static prevention measures in place. Use a rubber mat.

Most screens come with a protective film to guard against scratches. DON"T remove this until new part is secured in phone. The glass/screen attract dust and fingerprints as well. The protective film help reduce this.

Even if you don"t have snot-nosed kids or wet-nosed pets, your computer monitor or HDTV panel will eventually accumulate a collection of annoying smudges and stains. My household happens to contain both of the aforementioned creatures and, thus, I"ve developed a method for wiping down the HDTV in the living room and the LCD monitor in my office, as well as the screen of my laptop and iPad.

If you take a quick survey of LCD or HDTV manufacturers about the recommended method for cleaning the surface of your monitor or TV screen, you"ll discover more don"ts than dos, often in conflict with one another.

First, attempt to clean your screen with a dry, lint-free cloth. If you can"t find the cleaning cloth that came with your screen in question, then it"s likely you have one laying around from a laptop, iPad, or iPhone purchase.

After removing any dust from your screen with a dry cloth, dip the other cloth in your dish soap solution, wring it out, and gently wipe your display. Next, rinse out your soapy cloth, wring it out again, and wipe your display to remove any soap residue. Finally, take your dry cloth and wipe the display to remove any streaking.

Editors" note:It"s time for spring cleaning! Week"s two"s theme: physical cleaning.Check backevery day this week to see how best to keep dirt, grime, crumbs, and other annoying bits off your devices. And be sure to return next week for more spring cleaning tips and tricks.

Apple is always looking to diversify its suppliers; this helps to improve existing technologies and make them less expensive. This time, TCL’s subsidiary CSOT wants to enter Apple’s LCD supply chain for upcoming Macs and iPads.

The publication says that CSOT is a “fierce competitor” to BOE in the global LCD market, but the company is ahead of CSOT in LCD panels for notebooks, tablets, and monitors as well as with the OLED technology for smartphones.

BOE, as you probably know, has for years been a third supplier of displays for Apple’s older LCD iPhones, but only started making OLED panels for Apple as of the iPhone 12. It was on track to pick up orders for 30-40M iPhones this year. It will also be responsible for around five million units of iPhone 14 OLED panels.

Not only that, but BOE is also supplying LCD panels to Apple for MacBooks and iPads. Analyst firm Omdia says the Chinese company will be the largest supplier of LCD panels for iPad this year.

CSOT also formed a team during the first half of the year to review building an OLED production line aimed at iPhones. CSOT’s expansion plan will, besides BOE, also threaten South Korean display maker LG Display, which leads the supply of LCD panels to Apple for high-end devices.

LG Display is expected to supply 14.8 million LCD panels to Apple for MacBooks this year, according to Omdia, making its share in this specific supply chain 55%. Having another competitor in the supply chain like CSOT could add pressure on LG Display to cut unit prices.

We"ve all had that moment: You"re sitting at your computer or laptop and the light hits your screen in a way to reveal an unsightly accumulation of streaks, fingerprints, and dust.

To help, we round up the most important things to know about cleaning your computer screen, whether it"s a Mac or PC. While it"s a simple process, there are a few important rules to keep in mind to make sure you"re doing it safely.

Computer screens are not all made the same, and thus can"t all be cleaned the same way. You"ll want to be careful no matter your screen type, but it"s helpful to know that displays come in two categories:Glass-coated screens: The screens on newer iMac displays and MacBooks have a glass overlay. Glass displays are a little less delicate than LCD or LED screens, and mild cleaning solutions, like rubbing alcohol, are generally safe to use on them.

LCD or LED screens:Windows computers and most touchscreens and matte displays are typically not coated in glass. Extra care should be taken with these screens so not to damage the pixels that make up the display.

Since there are so many computers, laptops, and monitors out there, each with their own set of variables and specificities, it"s smart to just simply err on the side of caution.

To clean a computer screen, you really just need two things: A microfiber cloth and filtered or distilled water. That"s to say you don"t need a special store-bought cleaning solution.

If you"d like some extra sanitation power, an equal parts mixture of water and vinegar is safe no matter your screen type. If you know that your display is glass-coated, you can also use an equal parts mixture of water and 70% rubbing alcohol.What you needTwo lint-free microfiber cloths

d3sign/Getty ImagesTurn the computer or laptop off.For safety reasons, begin by letting the device cool down completely. Dust, fingerprints, and smudges are also easier to spot on a black screen.

Wipe off dust with a dry cloth. Use a dry, lint-free microfiber cloth to gently wipe away any visible dust and dirt. If necessary, apply gentle pressure to remove surface-level smudges.

If any marks remain, wipe with a lightly moistened cloth.For glass-coated screens, you can use a mixture of equal parts water and vinegar or rubbing alcohol. For LED or LCD screens, use only water. Spray or lightly dab the solution directly onto the cloth and carefully wipe the screen from left to right.

Buff with a dry cloth and air-dry.If any streaks remain once the screen dries, gently buff them with the dry cloth. Before you turn your computer or laptop back on, allow the screen to dry completely.Note:Apple claims that you can use 70% isopropyl disinfecting wipes to clean any Apple product. Just remember not to get any liquid into the device"s ports or openings — to avoid this, you might want to wring out the wipe to remove any excess liquid before using it.

For the best advice for cleaning your screen, it"s a smart idea to check your owner"s manual, which provides the manufacturer"s specific recommendations. But since screens are especially susceptible to damage, there are a few general guidelines that apply, no matter the type of screen you own.

Turn off your computer before cleaning the screen. This is just safe practice where any amount of liquid is involved, but more specifically, any static on the screen could create a shock and damage the internal components.

Do not use abrasive cleaning solutions. This includes bleach (or any products containing bleach), hydrogen peroxide, or all-purpose spray cleaners. Using an abrasive cleaner can ruin the finish of your screen.

Use filtered or distilled water. Especially in areas with hard water, water containing minerals like calcium and magnesium can damage your screen or leave even more streaks.

Use only soft microfiber cloths.Even a fabric as soft as a cotton shirt has snags and uneven particles that can scratch a computer screen. For this reason, avoid T-shirts, towels, and paper towels. The exception is the Apple Pro Display XDR or iMac, which requires a special polishing cloth.

Never spray cleaning solution directly onto the screen. To avoid any risk of damage from excess moisture, mist the solution directly onto the microfiber cloth instead.

Do not wipe in circles. Wiping in circles can create uneven pressure and ultimately lead to screen damage. It"s also more likely to create streaking. Wipe in tight, Z-shaped motions, or in broad strokes from side to side.

Do not scrub.Apply gentle pressure only. Hard scrubbing can damage the internal components of the screen and could leave scratches or spots of discoloration or dead pixels that won"t go away.Melanie Weir

Melanie Weir is a freelance author for Insider, mainly focusing on the Tech Reference section, but occasionally contributing to Lifestyle and Entertainment topics as well. She is also a freelance writer for ScreenRant, and is the Lead Weekend News Editor at TheThings.com. In her spare time she writes plays for both stage and screen. She can be reached at melanie.weir1008@gmail.com, or through LinkedIn.

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4.4 If you deliberately fail to take delivery of the goods (otherwise than by reason of circumstances under control of the Supplier) then without prejudice to any other right or remedy available to the Supplier , the Supplier may:

4.4.2 sell the goods at the best readily obtainable price and (after deducting all reasonable storage and selling expenses) account to you for any excess over the price you agreed to pay for the goods or charge you for any shortfall below the price you agreed to pay for the goods.

4.5 If you fail to take delivery because you have cancelled your contract under the Distance Selling Regulations the Supplier shall refund or re-credit you within 30 days for any sum that has been paid by you or debited from your credit card for the goods. On exercising your right to cancel you shall be required to return the goods to the Supplier. Should you fail to return the goods, the Supplier reserves the right to deduct any direct costs incurred by the Supplier in retrieving the goods as a result of such failure.

4.6 Every effort will be made to deliver the goods as soon as possible after your order has been accepted. However, the Supplier will not be liable for any loss or damage suffered by you through reasonable or unavoidable delay in delivery. In this case, the Supplier will inform you as soon as possible when information becomes available.

4.7 Upon receipt of your order you will be asked to sign for the goods received in good condition. If the package does not appear to be in good condition then please refuse the delivery. If you are unable to check the contents of your delivery at the point of delivery then please sign for the parcel as UNCHECKED. Failure to do so may affect any warranty claims that you make thereafter.

4.8 Ex-Pro Products Limited is not liable for any delays in processing or vetting of credit cards through any service your order is paid. When your order is placed the order will be checked and confirmed with your card issuer, in some cases this can be instant and with some orders this can take some time, Ex-Pro Products Limited reserve the right check the GEO IP location of an order and placement to valid such orders prior to despatch.

5.3 The Supplier shall be entitled to recover payment for the goods even though ownership of any of the goods has not passed from the Supplier including admin and recovery costs, this includes situations where the customer has revoke credit card payments, such fee"s include bank charges, admin costs associated with obtaining payment and the revocation of the original payment. In such cases these costs will be invoiced and passed to a 3rd party collection firm for collection, this may incur further costs.

6.1 If you are a business customer until ownership of the goods has passed to you, "by definition" this would be goods shipping to a "PLACE OF BUSINESS" not a "RESIDENTIAL ADDRESS" or a residential address operating as a business under a business name, you must:

6.1.1 store the goods (at no cost to the Supplier) separately from all your other goods and goods of any third party in such a way that they remain readily identifiable as the Supplier s property;

6.1.2 not destroy, deface or obscure any identifying mark or packaging on or relating to the goods; maintain the goods in satisfactory condition and keep them insured on the Supplier s behalf for their full price against all risks to the reasonable satisfaction of the Supplier. On request you shall produce the policy of insurance to the Supplier; and

6.1.3 hold the proceeds of the insurance referred to in condition 6.1.2 on trust for the Supplier and not mix them with any other money, nor pay the proceeds into an overdrawn bank account.

6.2.1 you have a bankruptcy order made against you or make an arrangement or composition with your creditors, or otherwise take the benefit of any statutory provision for the time being in force for the relief of insolvent debtors, or (being a body corporate) convene a meeting of creditors (whether formal or informal), or enter into liquidation (whether voluntary or compulsory) except a solvent voluntary liquidation for the purpose only of reconstruction or amalgamation, or have a receiver and/or manager, administrator or administrative receiver appointed of its undertaking or any part thereof, or a resolution is passed or a petition presented to any court for your winding up or for the grant-ing of an administration order in respect of you, or any proceedings are commenced relating to your insolvency or possible insolvency; or

6.2.2 you suffer or allow any execution, whether legal or equitable, to be levied on your property or obtained against you or you are unable to pay your debts within the meaning of section 123 of the Insolvency Act 1986 or you cease to trade; or

7.1 You have the right to cancel the contract at any time up to the end of 14 days after you receive the goods, unless you a business customer. (see below)

7.2 To exercise your right of cancellation, you must give written notice to the Supplier by hand, post, fax or email or through our designated Returns Support System giving details of the goods ordered and (where appropriate) your order number. Notification by phone is not sufficient and will not be recorded any calls as such should be followed up by the above. (7.2).

7.3 If you exercise your right of cancellation after the goods have been delivered to you, you will be responsible for returning the goods to the Supplier at your own cost, we recommend using a traceable method of postage, we are not responsible for your item should it be lost or stolen in the post. If you choose to use our own returns service we will deduct the applicable service costs prior to refund, however Ex-Pro Products Limited are not liable for the goods until returned and logged in our depot, even when using our 3rd party returns service. The goods must be returned to the address by requesting returns authorisation. You must take reasonable care to ensure the goods are not damaged in the meantime or damaged in transit (Eg Packed correctly) and are returned un-used in the condition they were supplied to you. You are fully responsible for their safe return in the condition that they were supplied, providing you have done so and requested to return goods within 14 days of the date of delivery (Cooling off period) we will refund the purchase cost in full. In the case of faulty, incorrect or damaged goods we shall, after receiving notification in accordance with clause 8.3 or 8.4, we will provide you with our returns service details, should goods be established as "not at fault" following testing the return cost relating to your products return will be deducted prior to refund as your order return will be treated as "not required" (providing it is within the cooling off period), if the return is outside the 14 day cooling off period we will re-deliver the order back to you at your cost by carrier or courier.

7.4 Once you have notified the Supplier that you are cancelling the contract, the Supplier will refund or re-credit you within 30 days for any sum that has been paid by you or debited from your credit card for the goods, subject to our terms and conditions for rights of cancellation and when the request was made.

7.5 You do not have the right to cancel the contract if the order is for computer software which has been unsealed by you, or for consumable goods which, by their nature, cannot be returned and resold once opened and used, save where a fault is discovered which could not have been discovered otherwise than by unsealing the goods.

7.7 Where an item was specifically ordered (Specific part created for specific apparatus or special ordered parts for specific purposes) returns may be subject to a 35% re-stock charge at the discretion of Ex-Pro Products Limited. This does not apply to business to business transactions where a no refund policy applies.

7.8 Direct business transactions are exempt from the right to cancel, goods can only be returned for exchange should they be faulty within the stipulated period (if not stated 1 year providing the unit has not been used in commercial circumstances), see Warranty returns.

7.9 If you request returns refund beyond our 14 day policy but before 30 days for any order not required from the date of sale, this will be authorised solely at the discretion of Ex-Pro Products Limited and may be subject to processing costs for restocking, this will checked on an individual case basis and will be a sole discretion of Ex-Pro Products Limited, any decision made is final.

8.1 All goods supplied by the Supplier are warranted free from defects for 12 months from the date of supply (unless otherwise stated by way of extended warranty or direct manufacture warranty or reduced clearance or "refurb warranty"). This warranty does not affect your statutory rights as a consumer.

8.2 This warranty does not apply to any defect in the goods arising from fair wear and tear, wilful damage, accident, negligence by you or any third party, use otherwise than as recommended by the Supplier, failure to follow the Supplier s instructions, or any alteration or repair carried out without the Supplier s approval. Orders returned will be checked by our technical support team and if the damaged is user related this will be notified within 14 days.

8.3 If the goods supplied to you are damaged on delivery, you should notify the Supplier in writing via the e-mail address or fax number shown below within 14 days, usually we will request return of the item using our returns service or collect the item and issue a new item.

8.4 If the goods supplied to you develop a defect while under warranty or you have any other complaint about the goods, you should notify the Supplier in writing via our Returns Support system, email or fax number shown below, as soon as possible, but in any event within 14 days of the date you discovered or ought to have discovered the damage, defect or complaint. Items will be tested by qualified engineers to establish any fault reported, if the item is discovered to be NOT AT FAULT, your attention is drawn towards Section 7, Line 7.3.

8.5 Where an item is supplied to a business warranty does not cover commercial use of any item, should the item be used in a commercial environment or re-sold, the item is not eligible for returns replacement under warranty.

9.3 If you are a business customer the Supplier shall not be liable to you for any indirect or consequential loss or damage (whether for loss of profit, loss of business, depletion of goodwill or otherwise), costs, expenses or other claims for consequential compensation whatsoever (howsoever caused) which arise out of or in connection with this agreement or order.

9.4 If you are a direct customer the Supplier shall not be liable to you for any indirect or consequential loss or damage (consequential or associated or indirect costs), costs, expenses or other claims for consequential compensation whatsoever (howsoever caused) which arise out of or in connection with this agreement or order.

10.1 If you are returning an item because of an error on our part or, in accordance with our returns policy, because it is damaged or defective, we will refund the delivery charges incurred in sending the item to you (where applicable) and pay your costs of returning it to us (this will be via our FREEPOST RETURNS Service applicable to your return and issued to you direction). Specific rules apply to the return of larger / more expensive electrical items, usually these items will be arranged for collection.

10.2 Ex-Pro Products Limited will check all items returned as damaged or defective. In the event we find no fault with your order, we reserve the right to re-charge you for the item/s and to recover our fees and expenses from you prior to refund. Refer to section 7.3 - Note: Our returns services are not available for all UK delivery addresses, and they are not available for delivery addresses outside the UK. The Returns Support Centre will generate the relevant returns details for you directly in these cases.

10.4 Where you are choosing to withdraw from your purchase within the fourteen working day cooling-off period following receipt of your order, and there has been no error on our part, we will refund the cost of the item only and the cost of sending the item to you as follows if applicable. When returning an order within the fourteen working day cooling-off period you are obligated under the DSR regulations to return the order (items) exactly as supplied, complete with all accessories and seals / shrink wrap where applicable intact. Items must not have been used and must be returned in a saleable condition. Items such as CD-ROMs"/software/Audio & Video"s are excluded from this policy. :

where you are returning an item that was part of a larger order, we"ll refund the per-item charge for delivery that you incurred relevant only to that item.

where we collect an item from you or use our returns service, we reserve the right to recover the full costs of collection including services charges where applicable.

If you are not intending to use our returns service, but instead whish to return the item of your own accord please ensure you have the necessary returns authorisation by requesting details online, ensure that your item is returned using a traceable postage method.

We will not refund any other services provided to you in connection with your purchase unless you return the item to us because of an error on our part or because it is defective.

10.5 For items returned beyond the fourteen-day cooling off period, up to 30 days following date of sale, where you are withdrawing from your purchase between fourteen and 30 days after the date of sale, and there has been no error on our part, we will refund only the cost of the actual product solely at the discretion of Ex-Pro Products Limited this will be less our costs and re-stocking charge, items not authorised can not be returned for refund. We will not refund the cost of delivery or other services provided to you in connection with your purchase. If you use our returns service, we will deduct the return postage from your overall refund. If you return the order directly, ensure you use a traceable method of postage, no refund will be given for these costs.

10.7 Items returned without authorisation will be returned to you at cost or we may treat the return if within the 14 day cooling off period we will automatically treat the return as not required and applicable terms and conditions will be applied. Always request returns authorisation prior to returning any item, please advise of your intention to do so, your reasons for doing so and await details. Please ensure you request this via our returns system. Failure to do so may mean that the item would return to you directly as undelivered.

The Supplier will take all reasonable precautions to keep the details of your order and payment secure but unless the Supplier is negligent, the Supplier will not be liable for unauthorised access to information supplied by you. No data is stored relating to credit card transaction by T/A Ex-Pro Products Limited following your order nor do we sell or disclose our client data to any other 3rd parties. We do not sell or use our data for any other purpose, all personal data processed by our merchant authority is maintained under their own DATA PROTECTION POLICY.

Product images are for illustrative purposes only and may differ from the actual product, please take note of the description of the item and the basket description, whilst we maintain our site regularly at some points images do differ, we are unable to address this in some cases due to the speed of supply and the nature of these products.

These terms of sale and the supply of the goods will be subject to English law and the English courts will have jurisdiction in respect of any dispute arising from the contract, save that consumers resident in Scotland shall have the right to insist upon these terms being construed in accordance with the laws of Scotland and to submit to the jurisdiction of Scottish courts.

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The more you use an electronic device, the dirtier it"ll get over time. Given that smartphones, laptops, tablets, and TVs are a major part of our lives, you"re probably curious about how to clean their screens. When it comes time to give your device a good wipe-down, you may be confused about where to start, especially given the sensitive nature of this cleaning task. Even though most smartphones are waterproof, you definitely shouldn"t scrub one like you would a dirty dish in the sink.

Below, you"ll find our favorite screen cleaners, as well as some tips on how to clean your smartphone. And hopefully, we will also help ease your concerns about catching or spreading COVID-19 via your smartphone.

Apple says you should use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth to clean your iPhone. On the other hand, Google says you can use ordinary household soap on a damp cloth to remove stains. Both agree that cleaning wipes — those that have 70% isopropyl alcohol — are fine, too. That is, just as long as you don"t get moisture into any of your smartphone"s openings. Apple also says 75% ethyl alcohol wipes and Clorox Disinfecting Wipes are safe to use: Just make sure you don"t use products containing bleach or hydrogen peroxide!

It"s also important to turn off your device before you clean its screen, and you should never apply the cleaner directly to the screen, either. Spray the cleaner on a lint-free cloth instead, and avoid using rougher materials like paper towels. Consider keeping your smartphone in a sealed case, too, so it"s easier and safer to wipe down with disinfectant wipes.

The CDC recommends cleaning high-touch surfaces regularly — including our phones. Both the Wall Street Journal have reported that there is no need to compulsively clean your phone, but it"s still a good idea to give it a quick wipe down every now and then.

Dr. Donald W. Schaffner, an extension specialist in food science and a distinguished professor at Rutgers University says if you"ve been near anybody who has been coughing or sneezing, you should most definitely clean your phone. However, if you"re diligent about washing your hands, there"s no reason to clean your phone more than once a day ... unless it"s potentially been exposed to the virus.

Unless you"re using a disinfecting wipe to clean your devices, chances are that whichever screen cleaner you buy will not kill the COVID-19 virus. Most screen cleaners aren"t disinfectants. If you"re shopping for a disinfectant, make sure you check to see if it"s an EPA-registered disinfectant that can kill the COVID-19 virus.

Even though most screen cleaners don"t kill viruses, experts say that the chance of catching a virus like COVID-19 from your smartphone is minimal when compared to the risk of being near someone who is infected with the disease.

There are steps you can take to minimize your mobile device"s exposure to germs and viruses, however. The Federal Communications Commission recommends the following:Keep your phone in your pocket, purse, or car when you leave the house

Now that you know how to clean your devices, find the best screen cleaner for your needs among these thoroughly evaluated picks. We"ve recommended cleaners that come in large-sized bottles that"ll last for months at home, some smaller travel-friendly cleaners for keeping your screens looking flawless on the go, and even some hypoallergenic screen cleaners for folks who are sensitive to chemicals. Trust us, whether you"re sick of the smudges or just want to keep germs and bacteria at bay, you"ll find the best screen cleaners for every kind of device below.