wall mount raspberry pi lcd touch screen case free sample

Make sure your kit is fully protected with a Raspberry Pi 4 display case. Designed to encase the whole screen, it wraps around your Raspberry Pi effortlessly, offering protection whether you’re traveling or setting up away from home. Making the whole unit completely portable, why not take a look at what makes the Pi 4 screen case a must-have item.

From OKdo, the freestanding Pi 4 screen case is designed to house your Raspberry Pi 7 LCD touch screen along with your Raspberry Pi 4 board neatly behind it. This versatile case is suitable for use with the Raspberry Pi 4. The enclosure consists of the main RPi LCD touch screen and board casing with a removable rear cover which simply snaps together.

The main enclosure is made from durable ABS and provides protection to both your RPi board and LCD, as well as making the whole unit portable. Cut-outs in the Raspberry Pi 4 display case allow quick access to all the necessary connections and USB ports. The enclosure also creates an attractive bezel around the Raspberry Pi LCD display, improving its appearance.

The rear cover provides protection to the Raspberry Pi 4 board and other related components snap fits to the main Raspberry Pi 4 screen case moulding. The rear cover can be easily removed for access to the GPIO pins and other internal connections. If you’re looking to wall mount your Raspberry Pi 4 7 inch touch screen case, the back cover can be removed exposing two integrated wall-mounting keyholes.

You’ve been incredibly patient: thank you. The official Raspberry Pi touch display is on sale today, priced at $60 (plus local taxes and shipping): you can buy it at RS Components/Allied Electronics and at Premier Farnell/Newark. Other sellers will be receiving stock later this week.

Two years ago, I began the process of looking for a simple, embeddable display for the Raspberry Pi. I honestly believed it would only take us six months from start to end, but there were a number of issues we met (and other products diverted our attention from the display – like Rev 2.1, B+, A+, and Pi 2). But we’ve finally got there, and I thought you might be interested in learning about our journey.

HDMI is the system we all know and love, it allows us to communicate with monitors up to 4K and has a relatively low signal swing to reduce EMI. There are lots of other very useful bits of the specification such as CEC (a communication channel between the TV and the Pi that allows us to receive input from the TV), EDID (a method of automatically identifying the different formats the TV supports) and a hotplug signal allow the Pi to know when you plug in the cable. The only problem with HDMI is that the electronics required to convert from HDMI to the native panel interface can be quite expensive.

DPI (Display Parallel Interface) is a 24-bit parallel interface with a clock and various synchronisation signals totalling 28 signals, all of which switch at a rate of around 70MHz. This interface has been phased out of tablets/phones because the electromagnetic noise created and power consumed by all those wires. Although it is possible to directly talk to a DPI display through the GPIO connector on a Raspberry Pi it would leave no GPIOs left for people to connect other HATs. DPI displays are available everywhere though, and are relatively cheap!

DBI (Display Bus Interface) is an old display technology that usually has inbuilt frame storage to reduce tearing, due to the memory and hardware it makes DBI screens expensive.

So our solution to this problem was to employ both DSI (to avoid using up all the GPIOs) and DPI (easily available screens in suitable resolutions) and a bridge chip/conversion board to convert between the two.

When looking for a device, we needed to look for what are termed ‘Industrial’ LCD displays. These tend to have better-quality metrics and guaranteed availability.

Our first PCB to do the DSI to DPI conversion was completed back in mid-2013. The board used a Toshiba bridge chip to convert the DSI signals to DPI ones. I spent quite a bit of time getting the Raspberry Pi to talk to the bridge device, and then got it working and displaying an image (yay). We then took it to our local EMC test facility to investigate how easy it would be to pass CE and FCC electromagnetic compliance.

When electrical currents flow around a circuit board, they create electro-magnetic fields, which can be picked up by other electronic devices. Maybe you remember what used to happen to your CRT television when your mum turned on the hoover (sorry for those of you without any experience of analogue television). This was becoming a problem for television and radio receivers; when I was a kid and plugged in my Spectrum 48K, the radio wouldn’t work properly any more. So the powers that be introduced new rules about the amount of energy a device can output at various frequencies from 25MHz up to a couple of GHz. You have to make sure your electronic devices do not cause interference, and are not susceptible to electronic interference.

Unfortunately, DPI is 1.8V signal swing, and although much slower, it needs 28 signal wires, meaning 28x more paths with the same edges switching up and down at the same time. This gives us an output looking something like:

The next step was to understand why the EMI is so bad, so we tried redesigning the board so it looks like a HAT (it’s not actually a HAT because there is no EEPROM for device tree information), and added an Atmel device to control the power/reset and PWM for the backlight. We also went through three different iterations of adding chokes to improve the noise conducting down the power supply cable, and manipulating the route of the DPI signals to improve the path of the ground return.

The first displays are supplied as a kit which requires some initial construction. Alex Eames from RasPi.TV has helpfully provided a video showing how to do it.

The display module integrates the LCD display with a conversion board that should be plugged into the Raspberry Pi through the display connector. Be aware that the connector is the same as the camera connector, but the two are not compatible, so be careful to correctly identify the display connector first.

The 15-way FPC connector should already be plugged into the display conversion board with the silvered contacts face-up. You can then plug the connector into the Raspberry Pi with the silvered connectors inboard (facing towards the USB connectors).

Attach an official 2A Raspberry Pi power supply to the display board “PWR IN” connector, then attach a standard uUSB connector from the “PWR OUT” connector to the Raspberry Pi.

The Raspberry Pi will now automatically detect the display and use it as the default display (rather than HDMI), although HDMI will still be initialised. If you’d prefer for the HDMI display to stay as default then add:

Please note, you may need to increase the amount of memory allocated to the GPU to 128MB if the videos are 1080P, adjust the gpu_mem value in config.txt for this. The Raspberry Pi headline figures are 1080P30 decode, so if you are using two 1080P clips it may not play correctly depending on the complexity of the videos.

The Raspberry Pi display has an integrated 10-point touchscreen (a bit of an overkill, but it does seem to work well). The driver for this touchscreen outputs both standard mouse events and full multi-touch events, and therefore can work with X as a mouse (although not brilliantly – X was never designed to work with a touchscreen!).

Kivy is a Python GUI development system for cross-platform applications. It is designed to work with touchscreen devices (phones and tablets), but also runs on the Raspberry Pi. To install Kivy onto your Pi follow the instructions at

From the videos you can see how capable the interface is. I’m in the process of developing a touchscreen application for an installation at home to control a safety and heating monitoring system, so you’ll probably hear more about that at some point!

Pi OS Bullseye was released in November 2021. There are a number of issues rotating the camera in Bullseye. Raspistill and raspivid rotation are not supported. If you are having issues rotating the camera, please try Pi OS Buster. It is available in the Raspberry Pi imager under Raspberry Pi OS (other). Buster will be supported until 2024.

Always use a UL or CE marked wall power supply with the included splitter cables. Use a wall power supply that can deliver enough current for your application. For best results, use a 5.1 volt power supply to avoid low voltage warning on the display. The

Route the long end of the white cable under the display board. Attach the long end to the camera as shown. Install the display board onto the display with the supplied gold m3 screws. The standoffs that came with the display can be used to attach HAT boards to the Raspberry Pi.  Attach the short white cable to the display board. Make sure the writing on the cable and blue tab is facing up like the photo.

Connect the wire to the GPIO pins. We suggest starting with low speed as it is quieter. If you get the temperature icon in the display, you can always move up to the high speed.

HAT boards can be attached with the standoffs that came with the display. Use the m2.5 nuts that came with the SmartiPi Touch to fasten the HAT board down.

The back cover accessory(sold separately) attaches to the brass 75mm VESA mount inserts on the back.  It is plain open box that you need to customize yourself.

I searched for a specific casing and found the design “Raspberry Pi 7 Inch Touchscreen display case” by luc_e (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585924) to fit best for me.

Mount the whole casing as shown by luc_e, but do not yet screw the lid. Now insert four M3x10 mm screws (with allen key) in my wall mounting adapters (into the smaller, inner holes) through the lid and then screw tightly. Take care, that the four screws are fully inserted in the wall mounting adapters as otherwise the full casing might wobble on the wall . Then mount the whole casing with four 4mm screws (outer holes) on the wall. Length of the screws depends on the thickness of your wall. Behind the casing there is enough space for (at least my) USB power cable for the Raspberry.

The Raspberry Pi 7" Touchscreen is an amazing, affordable piece of tech. I decided I wanted to mount one to my wall to use for home automation. But none of the DIY mounts I found online dealt with the problem of how to flush mount it with no exposed wires. This project shows you how to do it.

The Pi hanging off the back of the touchscreen is too large to fit into a 2-gang electrical box. And the screen isn"t large enough to cover a 3-gang box. Plus, there"s the problem of power. To eliminate any visible wires, I wanted to run 120VAC Romex wire inside the wall and into the box, and place a 5V USB transformer there. So the box needed to be partitioned into a high-voltage zone and a low-voltage zone.

My solution is to use a 3-gang, 55 cubic inch remodel box. I 3D-printed a set of partitions to wall off the high voltage and the transformer from the Pi and screen. And I printed a bezel frame that wraps the silver edge of the touchscreen and covers the electrical box completely.

The resulting system is very sleek. It only extends 15mm beyond the sheetrock. All the wiring is inside the wall and inside the box. And if you have cat5 inside your walls, there"s space to connect it to the Pi as well.

Here are the parts you"ll need for the project:Raspberry Pi 3 Model B, Micro SD, and 7" Touchscreen. I don"t cover the details of setting up the Raspberry Pi, but there are many good tutorials online like this one

Option 120: Apple 10W or 12W USB adapter. There are a lot of USB adapters out there, but you need a very compact one that puts out at least 2.1A. Any less than that, and the touchscreen will show a low-voltage warning. The Apple adapter was the only one I found that met these requirements

All the Sketchup designs and STL files can be found here on Thingiverse. A few notes on the 3D printed parts:The tracks & walls and the faceplate can be printed in any color; they won"t be visible. The bezel will be visible, so I recommend printing in black. You"ll definitely need to print the bezel and faceplate using full support. But if you print the bezel in the orientation shown, none of the surfaces that touched the support will be exposed.

With this project, every inch counts. The two jumper cables connecting the Pi to the touchscreen adapter board stick out the side about 1/2" from the adapter board, and we need that space back. So you"ll have to cut off the jumpers and solder the wires directly onto the board. The other ends, which connect to the Raspberry Pi, don"t require any modification. That"s good news-- the boards can still be detached from each other if needed.

Option 120 Only: These three partitions create a space large enough to house the Romex and USB transformer, physically isolated from the Pi and touchscreen. The partitions are designed to be easily inserted and removed multiple times once the two tracks are glued in place.

Insert partition #1 into the channel that is molded into the box itself. Then add partition #2. Finally, place the tracks on the top and bottom of partition #3 and slide it into place. The tabs on partition #2 should fit into the slots in #1 and #3. Once everything is in place (#1 touching the back of the box; #3 flush with the front of the box, and aligned parallel to the sides), use a pencil to mark the edges of the tracks.

Attach Ethernet and micro USB to the Raspberry Pi. Gently push all the wires into the box, and connect the bezel to the faceplate by moving it horizontally into place and then pushing down about 4mm vertically.

Install the 3-gang box in the wall. Pull the Romex in through a port at the far right. If you"re running cat5e for Ethernet, pull that through a port at the far left. Cut the Romex wires as short as you"re comfortable with. You want enough length to work with, but as little as possible, since there"s not a lot of room in the box to stuff them in.

Insert the other two partitions carefully. You may need to twist the transformer and cables around a bit to fit in the L-shaped space available. Now all the high-voltage wiring is safely walled off from the area where the Pi will live. Only the USB cable spans the two spaces.

Finally, coil up the USB cable, attach the Pi to the USB cable, and connect the bezel to the faceplate by moving it horizontally into place and then pushing down about 4mm vertically.

The touchscreen looks really sharp. I"m using it to run HADashboard, which is part of the Home Assistant home automation open source project. Hopefully you can find something fun to run on yours.

Hi Peter, when running HA dashboard, did you have Home assistant and the dashboard running in the same device? If so, how did you get the Hassio image and the dashboard on the same pi? Or was the wall mounted display just a display for it?

I run Home Assistant and App Daemon (which provides the dashboards) on the same Raspberry Pi. I also run a simple web server there, and InfluxDB. Then I have a separate RPi for each dashboard.

I don"t install Home Assistant using the Hassio image. I go the slightly more manual route of installing it as a python package in a python virtual env. It"s what they call "Home Assistant Core" on this page: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation. This approach allows me to install other software on the same Pi.

I am not an electrician and I hate to be that guy, but I am 99.999% sure this isn"t code or really all that "safe" and would not pass any inspection at all. Gadget transformers are not supposed to be buried in the wall or connected directly to with live wires like this. (electrical tape)

You can purchase recessed electrical boxes, some are just deeper, some are deeper and at an angle that can hold the plug behind the screen or you can use an outlet in conjunction that has a USB power port. Other people have also suggested POE. Any other method seems better for the average person trying to do something like this.

I looked at the option you mentioned of using a recessed electrical box, and couldn"t get it to work from a pure space-management perspective. And ultimately, I concluded this is no different. In either case, you have a transformer inside an electrical box, accessible simply by removing the touchscreen.

I do not know anything about the power requirements of your screen/PI but is seems like just standard 5V? If that is the case and that"s all you need, a recessed box with a USB port potentially solves any safety/wiring issues.

Once you have recessed boxes, you "ll be good. IF you find you need to "cut" into a faceplate -- just don"t. Or worst case, install a low-voltage rated box for that (at least that way the 120V boxes have intact faceplates).

Another option is larger "between the studs" general purpose boxes. Home networking folks use these. These are often designed with fire blocks at the top. Put anything you want in it basically. Or, put some slats between the studs, and drywall a recessed area (but there"s code for that too, lol)

In case anyone doubts: The 3D plastic isn"t UL tested, and isn"t rated for "in wall" use. Same with the transformer. I know some readers will shrug off the fire concern (their castle), but there"s also 1st responders to consider, or lastly that also note insurance company MAY refuse to honor claims that had code violations.0

@wkearney99, thanks for all the thoughts. It"s actually a really hard problem. The 3-gang box provides enough space for the Pi hanging off the back of the touch screen, but the remaining space (and shape of that space) is not enough for a USB outlet or any other type of outlet.

I know it"s been 3 years but I am about to do what @peter_3d did but came to a screeching halt with the code compliance aspect. Then you chimed in with the Arlington and Datacomm products and saved the day for me. Now I have a way of recessing my Pi into the wall and powering it safely. Thanks to both of you!0

Awesome! I"ve deployed a few more of these over the years, but I"ve always used PoE. Can you post links to the specific items you used, and maybe a picture? I"m interested to see how it all comes together.0

I am *about to* -- meaning that I"m still in the tinkering phase. The project is under-cabinet lighting using 5 SK6812 strips each controlled by a D1-Mini running WLED (that"s the plan). There will be at least one wall-mounted remote control based on either an ESP32 or RPi0W. The remotes will have touch screens, probably something like this:

I assume that a bezel could be printed to mount the display and Pi/ESP that would cover the opening hiding the 120V outlet with USB power supply plugged into it. If the bezel is easily removable, the hidden power wiring is [probably] not a code violation (except in Australia where the Electricians Guild has convinced everyone that nobody but a licensed electrician can wire safely.)

Have you had any issues with heat dissipation? I"m using a POE hat on a RPi4 and have set the fan thresholds to 60 and 68, drilled holes in the electrical box for more ventilation, but the fan on the hat is still running constantly.

I"ve only used the Raspberry Pi 3 B+, with an external PoE injector, and haven"t had any heat issues. I"m guessing the Pi 4 draws a lot more power? I would definitely be concerned if things are heating up inside the wall box-- there"s nowhere for that heat to go.ReplyUpvote

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