arduino tft display flash red price

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In this guide we’re going to show you how you can use the 1.8 TFT display with the Arduino. You’ll learn how to wire the display, write text, draw shapes and display images on the screen.

The 1.8 TFT is a colorful display with 128 x 160 color pixels. The display can load images from an SD card – it has an SD card slot at the back. The following figure shows the screen front and back view.

This module uses SPI communication – see the wiring below . To control the display we’ll use the TFT library, which is already included with Arduino IDE 1.0.5 and later.

The TFT display communicates with the Arduino via SPI communication, so you need to include the SPI library on your code. We also use the TFT library to write and draw on the display.

In which “Hello, World!” is the text you want to display and the (x, y) coordinate is the location where you want to start display text on the screen.

The 1.8 TFT display can load images from the SD card. To read from the SD card you use the SD library, already included in the Arduino IDE software. Follow the next steps to display an image on the display:

Note: some people find issues with this display when trying to read from the SD card. We don’t know why that happens. In fact, we tested a couple of times and it worked well, and then, when we were about to record to show you the final result, the display didn’t recognized the SD card anymore – we’re not sure if it’s a problem with the SD card holder that doesn’t establish a proper connection with the SD card. However, we are sure these instructions work, because we’ve tested them.

In this guide we’ve shown you how to use the 1.8 TFT display with the Arduino: display text, draw shapes and display images. You can easily add a nice visual interface to your projects using this display.

After years of on/off tinkering with Arduino I finally bought ten of these to standardize and replace my aging collection of taped-up/hacked-on Genuinos and brand X knockoffs.

I love the USB Micro/Mini/whatever instead of the needlessly big USB-B metal shielding that would short out on the bottom of whatever shield was installed on classic Arduinos.

It"s great and made in the USA. Got this for a good discount during the arduino day sale. It still was twice as much as a cheap eBay clone, but it"s four times as reliable. Sparkfun is a company I would highly recommend. Good customer service and friendly staff.

This seems to work fine as a cheap Arduino alternative. Getting the FTDI working with Mac was a pretty big hassle, though. Once that part was accomplished, everything works fine.

I bought this to replace a genuine UNO that I had to "donate" to a robotics project that my wife and I ran for her elementary school. This is not my first RedBoard either. I think they are just great.

I didn"t know anything about Arduino or programming before I bought this, but in less than a week, thanks to all the freely available code out there, I was able to connect two analogs and one digital sensor - piezo, FlexiForce, and 9DOF - and am already generating real-time data for a school project. I still don"t understand some (most?) of the quirks of the Arduino language, but I am assimilating it almost unconsciously. As for the board, you really can"t beat it for size, price, and functionality. I also give a tip of the hat to SerialChart for providing free access to their serial data monitoring software. It"s simple and it does what I need for now without fighting with MatLab or other software. Happy to be a new member of the community.

The RedBoard did what I needed. This was my first Sparkfun project and when I had some questions, your technical support was available via email and answered my questions within about 24 hours with good answers. It has been easy to work with. The tutorials are very helpful. I"m not an engineer and I"ve been able to do what I wanted so far. I"m now getting in a more sophisticated project and hopefully it will work as well.

My first purchase was the Inventor’s Kit which includes the RedBoard. I decided to follow some YouTube online lessons to introduce myself to basic electronics. This kit was recommended. I am very happy with SparkFun online support of their products which allows me to quickly install software on my Mac for development. Unfortunately, I did not do well in coding one sketch I created with regard to using the AREF pin. I had been forewarned about Magic Blue Smoke territory before I took the plunge. Magic Blue Smoke won & I learned something! Ordered 2nd RedBoard and progressing along well. Very happy with this product!

Whilst arduino and other arduino replicas work out of the box with Mac - this does not - I understand it is possible - but much more fiddly than I was expecting.

The isolation of the USB port from the processor was the primary factor in my choice. Several similar products commit interface components to the board design that limit the flexibility of the product(i.e. compass, accelerometer and/or gyro). The simplicity of the board allows the installed program to be easily monitored and/or adapted to desired changes in interface hardware. The surface mount components allow for a lower profile for adapter boards and low risk to accidental short circuits. For interest in Arduino-like design/development this is the best choice for flexibility. I have used several micro controller products over the years and feel this is a good design choice.

I have always been a fan of Spark Fun and Arduino. Use them on several prototype projects. These boards are well built and provide great functionality. Arduino is a great development platform.

First Arduino board and no complaints at all. Integrates easily with the Arduino IDE and was able to start working right away. Plus the Sparkfun tutorials, documentation and codebase is really useful.

It seems to work well and the only complaint I have is that it seems to take longer to program this unit compared to some other devices such as the Nano and Mini for some reason.

I have had a couple of these boards running continuously for over two years. One red board is in an outdoor weather station and it"s been running well through winter freezes and summer heat. Another does continuous readings from a geiger counter to monitor background radiation levels. (Looking nervously toward the Shearon Harris Nuclear Power plant.)

I"ve used red boards in several other projects and I have had no complaints. I can also vouch for the fact they run fine at background radiation levels up to 0.25 uSv/hour, about double the normal rate, for a couple of days. (Again looking nervously toward the Shearon Harris Nuclear Power plant.)

The Sparkfun Red board is beautiful and works totally compatible with the Arduino. I like to use the board for my advanced experiments, and when you have many Arduinos, you know that the beautiful red one is the one that you are working with at the moment.

Awesome board, like it better than a real Arduino Uno because of the SMT design (no more shorting of PHT leads on the underside of the board). Looks great with the SFE black acrylic arduino and breadboard holder. I also really like that Sparkfun went to the trouble of putting colored leds on the board (power is green, tx/rx are red/yellow, and pin 13 is a cool blue!!) Yeah, I would rather have a micro-b port than its current mini-b, and I"m not a big fan of the tiny SMD reset button, but those are very minor issues.

This is a product that will allow one to get a bot up and running in short order as the support documentation and the Arduino IDE are very clear and easy to use. The fact that many shields and complementary boards are available to it only enhances it"s attractiveness for use.

Works as well or better than any other Arduino board that I have used. I like the fact that the supply voltage can be between 7 and 15 volts. That"s a wider range than for some other brand boards that I"ve used.

Though I do have previous programming experience, I have never done much with Arduino. However, the helpful tutorials and many example codes were incredibly useful, and within just a couple days of working on my project, I had completed it. I definitely recommend buying this microcontroller whether you"re a beginner or whether you"ve programmed before.

The standard Uno is to spec. The spec has an issue. The issue is the size of the USB connector. The mini connector on the RedBoard was what I needed for several projects that required a low-profile, i.e., RFID project where all the guts had to fit inside a standard electrical utility box so it would all fit into a wall. You say, why not just use an Arduino Mini? Well, I want to take advantage of all the great shields that are in the world that fit the Uno, some of which actually short out against the larger USB connector metal case. Anyway, I think this is a brilliant design improvement.

I was able to quickly set this device with the help of my son. He used one in school which got me interested. Ive been programming for work for the past 10 yesrs so its pretty easy to do basic things or find the code on the internet. I"ve been able to make a display and a countdown timer. With my son"s help we"ve figured out how to use a reed switch and light up different LEDs. End state is a tchometer and speedometer combo for my 1976 RD400. Having fun along the way is a plus.

I am teaching another round of Intro to Programming using the Arduino classes at the K5COW Cowtown Amateur Radio Club in Fort Worth, TX. The RedBoard makes an ideal platform to begin learning to program. The students in the class quickly progress from blinking the LED, to sounding a piezo beeper, to sending their name and/or radio callsign in Morse Code, to displaying buttons on an attached TFT color touchscreen display, to sampling the outside world & displaying real-time status on the TFT color touchscreen display. Thank you for making this product available for purchase. For anyone looking for a quality Arduino UNO equivalent, I would highly recommend the SparkFun RedBoard as an excellent choice !!

No! For about the price of a familiar 2x16 LCD, you get a high resolution TFT display. For as low as $4 (shipping included!), it"s possible to buy a small, sharp TFT screen that can be interfaced with an Arduino. Moreover, it can display not just text, but elaborate graphics. These have been manufactured in the tens of millions for cell phones and other gadgets and devices, and that is the reason they are so cheap now. This makes it feasible to reuse them to give our electronic projects colorful graphic displays.

There are quite a number of small cheap TFT displays available on eBay and elsewhere. But, how is it possible to determine which ones will work with an Arduino? And what then? Here is the procedure:ID the display. With luck, it will have identifying information printed on it. Otherwise, it may involve matching its appearance with a picture on Google images. Determine the display"s resolution and the driver chip.

Find out whether there is an Arduino driver available. Google is your friend here. Henning Karlsen"s UTFT library works with many displays. (http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/library.php?i...)

Download and install the driver library. On a Linux machine, as root, copy the library archive file to the /usr/share/arduino/libraries directory and untar or unzip it.

Load an example sketch into the Arduino IDE, and then upload it to the attached Arduino board with wired-up TFT display. With luck, you will see text and/or graphics.

We"ll begin with a simple one. The ILI9163 display has a resolution of 128 x 128 pixels. With 8 pins in a single row, it works fine with a standard Arduino UNO or with a Mega. The hardware hookup is simple -- only 8 connections total! The library put together by a smart fella, by the name of sumotoy, makes it possible to display text in multiple colors and to draw lines.

Note that these come in two varieties, red and black. The red ones may need a bit of tweaking to format the display correctly -- see the comments in the README.md file. The TFT_ILI9163C.h file might need to be edited.

It is 5-volt friendly, since there is a 74HC450 IC on the circuit board that functions as a level shifter. These can be obtained for just a few bucks on eBay and elsewhere, for example -- $3.56 delivered from China. It uses Henning Karlsen"s UTFT library, and it does a fine job with text and graphics. Note that due to the memory requirement of UTFT, this display will work with a standard UNO only with extensive tweaking -- it would be necessary to delete pretty much all the graphics in the sketch, and just stay with text.

on the far side of the display. It has 220x176 resolution (hires!) and will accept either 3.3 or 5 volts. It will work hooked up to an Uno, and with a few pin changes, also with a Mega. The 11-pin row is for activating the display itself, and the 5-pin row for the SD socket on its back.

This one is a 2.2" (diagonal) display with 176x220 resolution and parallel interface. It has a standard ("Intel 8080") parallel interface, and works in both 8-bit and 16-bit modes. It uses the S6D0164 driver in Henning Karlsen"s UTFT library, and because of the memory requirements of same, works only with an Arduino Mega or Due. It has an SD card slot on its back

This one is a bit of an oddball. It"s a clone of the more common HY-TFT240, and it has two rows of pins, set at right angles to one another. To enable the display in 8-bit mode, only the row of pins along the narrow edge is used. The other row is for the SD card socket on the back, and for 16-bit mode. To interface with an Arduino ( Mega or Due), it uses Henning Karlsen"s UTFT library, and the driver is ILI9325C. Its resolution is 320x240 (hires!) and it incorporates both a touch screen and an SD card slot.

Having determined that a particular TFT display will work with the Arduino, it"s time to think about a more permanent solution -- constructing hard-wired and soldered plug-in boards. To make things easier, start with a blank protoshield as a base, and add sockets for the TFT displays to plug into. Each socket row will have a corresponding row next to it, with each individual hole "twinned" to the adjacent hole in the adjoining row by solder bridges, making them accessible to jumpers to connect to appropriate Arduino pins. An alternative is hard-wiring the socket pins to the Arduino pins, which is neater but limits the versatility of the board.

In step 5, you mention that the TFT01 display can"t be used with the UTFT library on an Arduino Uno because of its memory requirements. It can - all you have to do is edit memorysaver.h and disable any display models you"re not using.

I think you should add a disclaimer that the code might make the Arduino Uno unprogrammable afterward (due to use up the two 0 and 1 pin) and link to how to fix it: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5290428/how-to-reset-an-arduino-board/8453576?sfb=2#84535760

Not at all - it was your Instructable that got me going with the display to begin with! We all build off each other"s work, to the benefit of everyone.0

Tho I realize this is quickly becoming legacy hardware, these 8,16 bit parallel spi with 4 wire controller 3.2in Taft touch display 240x380. It has become very inexpensive with ally of back stock world wide so incorporating them into any project is easier then ever. Sorry to my question. I’m having difficulty finding wiring solution for this lcd. It is a sd1289 3.3 and 5v ,40 pin parallel 8,16 bit. I do not want to use a extra shield,hat or cape or adapter. But there’s a lot of conflicting info about required lvl shifters for this model any help or links to info would be great .. thank you. I hope I gave enough information to understand what I’m adoing

#1 you need a data sheet for the display and pinout and the i/o board attached to the cable.Than before you buy check for a driver for this chip Raydium/RM69071.if no driver lib are you able to write one and do you have the necessary tools to work on this scale to wire it up ..if you answer no than search for an arduino ready product.WCH0

hooking up and adding a lib is no piece of cake insure the screen you buy is arduino ready and sold by a reputable shop with step by step directions...WCH0

I"m sorry that I can"t help you with this. You"ll have to do your own research. See if you can identify the chipset and find out if there"s an Arduino driver for it.0

Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! It is amazing at what is possible with items the average person can easily acquire. I hope to put some of your tips to use this winter as I would like to build sensors and other items for home automation and monitoring. Being able to have small displays around the house in addition to gathering and controlling things remotely will help the family see room conditions without going to the computer. The idea of a touchscreen control for cheap is mind blowing.

Download each library and unzip the folders. Rename them to "Adafruit_ST7735" and "Adafruit_GFX" and place each folder inside your Arduino Libraries folder. I"ve attached a screenshot of the libraries in the correct folder. Once installed, you are ready to operate the screen! Inside the Adafruit ST7735 library is a file called graphicstest.ino which you can upload to your Arduino and it will run through a number of functions that draw objects to the screen. However, this file will need some altering to adapt the pins to your layout.

Alternatively, you can copy/paste the code below into the Arduino IDE and upload it. This is a modified version of Adafruit"s graphictest.ino, the primary difference being the assignment of pins. I also played with the code a bit to see what kind of functions there are. Let me know if you experience any issues with code. It worked fine for me./***************************************************

In this Arduino touch screen tutorial we will learn how to use TFT LCD Touch Screen with Arduino. You can watch the following video or read the written tutorial below.

As an example I am using a 3.2” TFT Touch Screen in a combination with a TFT LCD Arduino Mega Shield. We need a shield because the TFT Touch screen works at 3.3V and the Arduino Mega outputs are 5 V. For the first example I have the HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor, then for the second example an RGB LED with three resistors and a push button for the game example. Also I had to make a custom made pin header like this, by soldering pin headers and bend on of them so I could insert them in between the Arduino Board and the TFT Shield.

Here’s the circuit schematic. We will use the GND pin, the digital pins from 8 to 13, as well as the pin number 14. As the 5V pins are already used by the TFT Screen I will use the pin number 13 as VCC, by setting it right away high in the setup section of code.

I will use the UTFT and URTouch libraries made by Henning Karlsen. Here I would like to say thanks to him for the incredible work he has done. The libraries enable really easy use of the TFT Screens, and they work with many different TFT screens sizes, shields and controllers. You can download these libraries from his website, RinkyDinkElectronics.com and also find a lot of demo examples and detailed documentation of how to use them.

After we include the libraries we need to create UTFT and URTouch objects. The parameters of these objects depends on the model of the TFT Screen and Shield and these details can be also found in the documentation of the libraries.

So now I will explain how we can make the home screen of the program. With the setBackColor() function we need to set the background color of the text, black one in our case. Then we need to set the color to white, set the big font and using the print() function, we will print the string “Arduino TFT Tutorial” at the center of the screen and 10 pixels  down the Y – Axis of the screen. Next we will set the color to red and draw the red line below the text. After that we need to set the color back to white, and print the two other strings, “by HowToMechatronics.com” using the small font and “Select Example” using the big font.

So the drawDistanceSensor() custom function needs to be called only once when the button is pressed in order to draw all the graphics of this example in similar way as we described for the home screen. However, the getDistance() custom function needs to be called repeatedly in order to print the latest results of the distance measured by the sensor.

In order the code to work and compile you will have to include an addition “.c” file in the same directory with the Arduino sketch. This file is for the third game example and it’s a bitmap of the bird. For more details how this part of the code work  you can check my particular tutorial. Here you can download that file:

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I have a TFT with the same IC and SKU but it has a red tab on the screen protector. This TFT "works" with the standard values in > the library and gets offset with yours.

It seems a bit buggy though with white flashes everytime tft.fillScreen(ST7735_BLACK); is called and when the graphicstest > enters the loop and starts inverting the display is shifts the whole screen half a screen height down.. kindof..

I"m facing a similar issue. The screen will flash to full white after a few seconds of use. It will remain like that unless i press the reset button on the Arduino board.

When pressing the reset button, the white flash disappear and i can see the screen, all colors and letters are on place. Keeping the reset button pressed will make the screen keep working without white flashes. After the arduino reboots and the code start, the screen will go flash white again.

Note: Sometimes it works for more time, sometimes it work for less time. I could make the screen work with another library that I"ve found somewhere on elecrow, and it does work fine (so im guessing that there are no hardware problems). I"ve also tried testing on arduino IDE and facing the same issue

The display is driven by a ST7735R controller ( ST7735R-specifications.pdf (2.1 MB) ), can be used in a “slow” and a “fast” write mode, and is 3.3V/5V compatible.

Adafruit_ST7735 is the library we need to pair with the graphics library for hardware specific functions of the ST7735 TFT Display/SD-Card controller.

In the file dialog select the downloaded ZIP file and your library will be installed automatically. This will automatically install the library for you (requires Arduino 1.0.5 or newer). Restarting your Arduino software is recommended as it will make the examples visible in the examples menu.

The easiest way to remedy this is by extracting the GitHub ZIP file. Place the files in a directory with the proper library name (Adafruit_GFX, Adafruit_ST7735 or SD) and zip the folder (Adafruit_GFX, Adafruit_ST7735.zip, SD.zip). Now the Arduino software can read and install the library automatically for you.

Basically, besides the obvious backlight, we tell the controller first what we are talking to with the CS pins. CS(TFT) selects data to be for the Display, and CS(SD) to set data for the SD-Card. Data is written to the selected device through SDA (display) or MOSI (SD-Card). Data is read from the SD-Card through MISO.

So when using both display and SD-Card, and utilizing the Adafruit libraries with a SainSmart display, you will need to connect SDA to MOSI, and SCL to SCLK.

As mentioned before, the display has a SLOW and a FAST mode, each serving it’s own purpose. Do some experiments with both speeds to determine which one works for your application. Of course, the need of particular Arduino pins plays a role in this decision as well …

Note: Adafruit displays can have different colored tabs on the transparent label on your display. You might need to adapt your code if your display shows a little odd shift. I noticed that my SainSmart display (gree tab) behaves best with the code for the black tab – try them out to see which one works best for yours.

Low Speed display is about 1/5 of the speed of High Speed display, which makes it only suitable for particular purposes, but at least the SPI pins of the Arduino are available.

After connecting the display in Low Speed configuration, you can load the first example from the Arduino Software (“File” “Example” “Adafruit_ST7735” –  recommend starting with the “graphictest“).

Below the code parts for a LOW SPEED display (pay attention to the highlighted lines) – keep in mind that the names of the pins in the code are based on the Adafruit display:

You can name your BMP file “parrot.bmp” or modify the Sketch to have the proper filename (in “spitftbitmap” line 70, and in “soft_spitftbitmap” line 74).

#define SD_CS 4 // Chip select line for SD card#define TFT_CS 10 // Chip select line for TFT display#define TFT_DC 9 // Data/command line for TFT#define TFT_RST 8 // Reset line for TFT (or connect to +5V)

#define SD_CS 4 // Chip select line for SD card#define TFT_CS 10 // Chip select line for TFT display#define TFT_DC 9 // Data/command line for TFT#define TFT_RST 8 // Reset line for TFT (or connect to +5V)

To use this in your Arduino Sketch: The first 2 characters represent RED, the second set of two characters is for GREEN and the last 2 characters represent BLUE. Add ‘0x’ in front of each of these hex values when using them (‘0x’ designates a hexadecimal value).

This function is used to indicate what corner of your display is considered (0,0), which in essence rotates the coordinate system 0, 90, 180 or 270 degrees.

However, if your application needs your screen sideways, then you’d want to rotate the screen 90 degrees, effectively changing the display from a 128×160 pixel (WxH) screen to a 160×128 pixel display. Valid values are: 0 (0 degrees), 1 (90 degrees), 2 (180 degrees) and 3 (270 degrees).

Based on these functions, I did create a little demo to show what these functions do. Either download the file or just copy the code and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch.

tft.print("Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Curabitur adipiscing ante sed nibh tincidunt feugiat. Maecenas enim massa, fringilla sed malesuada et, malesuada sit amet turpis. Sed porttitor neque ut ante pretium vitae malesuada nunc bibendum. Nullam aliquet ultrices massa eu hendrerit. Ut sed nisi lorem. In vestibulum purus a tortor imperdiet posuere. ");

Hi guys, welcome to today’s tutorial. Today, we will look on how to use the 1.8″ ST7735  colored TFT display with Arduino. The past few tutorials have been focused on how to use the Nokia 5110 LCD display extensively but there will be a time when we will need to use a colored display or something bigger with additional features, that’s where the 1.8″ ST7735 TFT display comes in.

The ST7735 TFT display is a 1.8″ display with a resolution of 128×160 pixels and can display a wide range of colors ( full 18-bit color, 262,144 shades!). The display uses the SPI protocol for communication and has its own pixel-addressable frame buffer which means it can be used with all kinds of microcontroller and you only need 4 i/o pins. To complement the display, it also comes with an SD card slot on which colored bitmaps can be loaded and easily displayed on the screen.

The schematics for this project is fairly easy as the only thing we will be connecting to the Arduino is the display. Connect the display to the Arduino as shown in the schematics below.

Due to variation in display pin out from different manufacturers and for clarity, the pin connection between the Arduino and the TFT display is mapped out below:

We will use two example sketches to demonstrate the use of the ST7735 TFT display. The first example is the lightweight TFT Display text example sketch from the Adafruit TFT examples. It can be accessed by going to examples -> TFT -> Arduino -> TFTDisplaytext. This example displays the analog value of pin A0 on the display. It is one of the easiest examples that can be used to demonstrate the ability of this display.

The second example is the graphics test example from the more capable and heavier Adafruit ST7735 Arduino library. I will explain this particular example as it features the use of the display for diverse purposes including the display of text and “animated” graphics. With the Adafruit ST7735 library installed, this example can be accessed by going to examples -> Adafruit ST7735 library -> graphics test.

The first thing, as usual, is to include the libraries to be used after which we declare the pins on the Arduino to which our LCD pins are connected to. We also make a slight change to the code setting reset pin as pin 8 and DC pin as pin 9 to match our schematics.

Next, we create an object of the library with the pins to which the LCD is connected on the Arduino as parameters. There are two options for this, feel free to choose the most preferred.

Next, we move to the void setup function where we initialize the screen and call different test functions to display certain texts or images.  These functions can be edited to display what you want based on your project needs.

The complete code for this is available under the libraries example on the Arduino IDE. Don’t forget to change the DC and the RESET pin configuration in the code to match the schematics.

Uploading the code to the Arduino board brings a flash of different shapes and text with different colors on the display. I captured one and its shown in the image below.

That’s it for this tutorial guys, what interesting thing are you going to build with this display? Let’s get the conversation started. Feel free to reach me via the comment section if you have any questions as regards this project.

ER-TFTM070-7 is 800x480 Pixels 7 inch color tft lcd display module with LT7683 controller board,superior display quality and easily controlled by MCU such as 8051, PIC, AVR, ARDUINO, and ARM .It can be used in any embedded systems,industrial device,security and hand-held equipment which requires display in high quality and colorful image.

It supports 8080 6800 8-bit,16-bit parallel,3-wire,4-wire,I2C serial spi interface.Built-in MicroSD card slot.It"s optional for resistive touch panel and controller XPT2046,capacitive touch panel and controller FT5316, flash chip and microsd card. We offer two types connection,one is pinheader and the another is ZIF connector with flat cable mounting on board by default and suggested.

It"s optional for flash chip and microsd card. We offer two types connection,one is pin header and the another is ZIF connector with flat cable mounting on board by default and suggested.

Of course, we wouldn"t just leave you with a datasheet and a "good luck!" We prepared the interfacing documents,libraries and examples for arduino due,mega 2560,uno,For 8051 microcontroller user,we also prepared the interfacing document and demo code.

On Cortex-M4 & earlier, loops and other code which much branch take 3 clock cycles. With M7, after a loop has executed a few times, the branch prediction removes that overhead, allowing the branch instruction to run in only a single clock cycle.

EXTMEM - Variables defined with EXTMEM are placed in the optional PSRAM memory chip soldered to the QSPI memory expansion area on bottom side of Teensy 4.1. These variables can not be initialized, your program must write their initial values, if needed.

PROGMEM & F() - Variables defined with PROGMEM, and strings surrounded by F() are placed only in the flash memory. They can be accessed normally, special functions normally used on 8 bit boards are not required to read PROGMEM variables.

FASTRUN - Functions defined with "FASTRUN" are allocated in the beginning of RAM1. A copy is also stored in Flash and copied to RAM1 at startup. These functions are accessed by the Cortex-M7 ITCM bus, for the fastest possible performance. By default, functions without any memory type defined are treated as FASTRUN. A small amount of memory is typically unused, because the ITCM bus must access a memory region which is a multiple of 32K.

FLASHMEM - Functions defined with "FLASHMEM" executed directly from Flash. If the Cortex-M7 cache is not already holding a copy of the function, a delay results while the Flash memory is read into the M7"s cache. FLASHMEM should be used on startup code and other functions where speed is not important.

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