how to turn on lcd screen on canon 80d free sample

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Do not point the camera toward an intense light source, such as the sun or an intense artificial light source. Doing so may damage the image sensor or the camera"s internal components.

* In addition to the above, the icons and symbols used on the camera"s buttons and displayed on the LCD monitor are also used in this article when discussing relevant operations and functionality.

Problem #1 solved (the camera you bought is and older model that doesn"t have Live View... use the viewfinder to compose instead... the 60D you were using is a much newer model that has Live View, as well as other added features).

Problem #2... Might bean issue with the camera, but much more likely is simply incorrect settings causing the camera to massively over-expose the images you"re taking. Since you bought the camera used, it might be a good idea to do a "Factory reset", since the previous owner may have left some settings behind that are causing you problems. Go into the menu and look for "reset".

Then go into ISO and set it to 100, set the camera to Program ("P") auto exposure or fully "AUTO" mode (the little green box) on the dial on the lefthand shoulder of the camera) and try a few shots outdoors in daylight. Either of these exposure modes should compensate and give more correct auto exposure.

FYI: When settings are going to cause severe under or over-exposure or exceed the capabilities of the camera or lens, you will probably see some of the settings display in the viewfinder flashing as a warning.

You also might want to go to the Canon website of your choice and search for your camera model, then go to the support area for it and download the free PDF of the user manual. If you don"t have a manual, I"m sure that will help you get started using it. FYI: The EOS 350D is also known as the Rebel XT in N. America and the Digital Kiss N in Japan. Same camera in all three markets.... just different names. So the user manual for any of them can apply to all, so long as it"s in a language you can read.

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This post walks you through how to make a time-lapse with the Canon 80D camera, step by step. We’ll also discuss why people create time-lapses, typical settings, how to plan, and more.

The Canon 80D can take photos at specified intervals, stitch them together automatically, and generate a time-lapse movie. They’re produced at full-HD (1080p) in either 30fps or 24fps, using the MOV (ALL-i) format.

Switch the mode dial to anything other than “Creative Filters” mode. (That’s the mode that looks like two overlapping circles). For a quick refresher on what each mode is, be sure to read, “10 Canon Camera Modes (and why you need them)

As soon as the recording finishes, the camera automatically stitches the time-lapse movie together for you, and disables “Time-lapse movie” mode in the menu.

One of the most common time-lapse questions goes like this: “How long do I need to record to get a 30 second time-lapse movie?” There’s two ways to answer that: The convoluted way, and the easy way.

If you want a 30 second time-lapse movie shot at 30fps (frames per second), with 5 second intervals between captures, you’ll need to record for 75 minutes. Here’s the formula:

In step #6 above, you set the interval and number of shots. As you make adjustments to those settings, the camera automatically calculates two things:

Here’s a handy reference chart you can use to help guide your decisions on intervals for time-lapses when you’re just starting out. Eventually, you’ll learn which settings work best for you in certain situations.

Simply put, people make time-lapses to show the passage of time at high speed. Videographers use them as transitions between scenes in video productions. For those of us not working on the next Netflix Original motion picture, quality time-lapses are just plain cool!

Back in the day, you needed fancy cameras, complex equipment, and intervalometers to create time-lapses. Photographers manually stitched together photos that were captured every 1 to 5 seconds, and played them back at 24fps to create magical movies. These days creating a time-lapse is lots simpler.

What’s the difference between time-lapse, hyper-lapse, and motion-lapse? For that matter, what are hyper-lapses and motion-lapses anyway? This section defines what each one is, with example videos.

In a time-lapse, the camera is “static”–meaning it doesn’t move during the recording. It’s usually mounted to a tripod. Frames are captured at slow intervals over a long period of time. When played back at 24fps, time appears to move very fast.

The camera is mounted to a gimbal, or motorized slider with programmable waypoints. You record the time-lapse as normal, and the gimbal or slider introduces small amounts of pan, tilt, or tracking movements during the recording. The result is a time-lapse with a pan, tilt, or tracking motion elements — hence the “motion” in motion-lapse.

The camera records a time-lapse, but instead of a static shot, the camera moves long distances during the recording. The results are dramatic, and gives your viewers the effect of traveling through the scene while the world around them moves at high speed.

The best time-lapse subjects fall into two categories. First are subjects that will noticeably change during your recording. Something that will have a distinct “before” and “after”. Second, are subjects with lots of movement. Busy scenes with moving elements.

TripodEnsure your camera is firmly planted on a stable surface or a nice sturdy tripod, so it doesn’t move. You don’t want your camera to get bumped during recording

Space on your memory card?Don’t fill up your memory card half way through your recording! If possible, try to use a fresh memory card, just to be safe

Get comfortableYou may be recording a while, so bring a folding chair and get comfortable. Catch up on your favorite social media feeds, or read a good book

Battery charged?You definitely don’t want to run out of juice during your recording! To add a level of confidence, get a battery grip like an extra battery, your camera will last twice as long

Drop a comment below, and let me know what kinds of epic time-lapses you plan to film, and post links to your social media pages, so we can go check them out!

The 24-megapixel EOS 80D continues Canon"s line of excellent midrange DSLRs. This $1,099 model produces great images and offers fast autofocus, improved dynamic range and high ISO performance.

The EOS 80D is a great camera for videographers, enthusiasts and those who want to grow their skills. Here are some quick and easy tips and tricks to help you make the most of this DSLR.

1. If you"re new to the 80D (or relatively new to DSLRs in general), first check out the Program auto mode (P). Once you"re comfortable with the concept of controlling shutter speed and aperture, then move on to the Tv (shutter-priority auto) mode and Av (aperture-priority) mode. From there, it"s much easier to move into M (manual) mode. See below for more information on the 80D"s exposure modes and suggestions on how and when to use each one.

2. Although the 80D is equipped with multiple direct-control buttons for metering, ISO, drive mode, AF and more, it"s a good idea to become familiar with the Q (Quick Control) button.

Located on the rear of the camera (to the upper right of the LCD screen), the Q button provides quick access to the major shooting settings and information. You can view the current settings and adjust everything from the ISO to the exposure mode. Since everything"s in one place on this feature, it"s sometimes easier to use the Q button when changing multiple settings at the same time.

3. Before you start taking photos, double-check all your settings to make sure you"re ready for the day"s shoot. For example, make sure that the ISO isn"t set to 1600 from your last shoot in low-light conditions.

Canon segments its mode dial into two zones: the Basic Zone and the Creative Zone. Basic encompasses all the automatic point-and-shoot modes, while Creative includes all the manual and semimanual exposure modes.

Canon has simplified the shooting options in this Zone and limited access to more-advanced settings to keep these modes, well, basic. While you can get some good results using these automatic modes, it"s best to use the Creative Zone modes. You"ll learn faster, and your pictures will be more fine-tuned to your aesthetic.

A+ = Scene Intelligent Auto: This is a fully automatic shooting mode that takes all the work (and all the control) out of your hands. The camera chooses settings by analyzing the scene and deciding what it thinks is best.

Flash Off: This is essentially the Automatic mode but with the flash disabled. (If you"re shooting in P/S/A/M, just keep the flash closed and it won"t pop up.)

SCN = Special Scene mode: Like other scene modes, this setting provides a list of possible scenes (portrait, landscape, food, etc.) to choose from. Just pair up your subject and the scene mode, and the camera will take it from there.

Creative Filters: The final option in the Basic Zone (represented by two overlapping circles on the mode dial), this is where you"ll find a series of 10 filters to add to your creative arsenal. They include Grainy B/W, Soft Focus, Fish-Eye and four HDR options.

As part of the Creative Zone, you have access to Program AE, Shutter-priority (Tv for Time value), Aperture-priority (Av for Aperture value), Manual (M) and Bulb (B).

P = Program AE (auto exposure): As mentioned before, P is a good place to start unless or until you"re comfortable with the other exposure modes in the Creative Zone. Although the camera sets the shutter speed and aperture, you can use the Program Shift feature to adjust the shutter speed or aperture by pressing the shutter button halfway and turning the main command dial (the dial on the top front of the camera) until you get the shutter speed or aperture you want. This allows you to maintain a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur or choose the aperture that will deliver a shallow or broad depth of field.

Tv = shutter-priority (Time value): In this mode, you select the shutter speed and the camera chooses the appropriate aperture for the lighting conditions. Although some people have rock-steady hands, most of us need a shutter speed of 1/125th of a second or faster to avoid blurry pictures of even static subjects. Use a tripod if you need to shoot a nonmoving subject at a slower shutter speed.

To capture action, set the shutter speed to a minimum of 1/200th of a second or higher if your subject is fast-moving. Increase the ISO if you need to do so. Alternatively, put the camera on a tripod and slow the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second or slower to intentionally blur movement, such as that of a waterfall. The tripod ensures that the rest of the scene will remain in focus.

Av = Aperture-priority (Aperture value): You choose the aperture, and the camera selects the shutter speed for what the device considers the right exposure. The benefit of shooting in aperture-priority is that it gives you control over depth of field, or how sharp (or blurred) the image appears from near to far.

Although the f/stop numbering system seems a little backwards, consider that the smaller number, such as f/2.0, opens up the aperture and lets more light in. The smaller numbers decrease the depth of field, keeping your main subject sharp while softening the foreground and background. Stop down the aperture (use a higher f/stop number, like f/11, f/16, etc.), and depth of field increases so that a broader area of the image appears in focus.

M = Manual: In this mode, you control the aperture and shutter-speed settings. Check the exposure-level indicator in the viewfinder and adjust the settings until the marker is in the middle. Then, adjust the settings to get the exposure you want; feel free to overexpose (adjust the mark to the right) or underexpose (adjust the mark to the left) if you"re not happy with the camera"s assessment.

B = Bulb: If you want to do long exposures at night, the Bulb mode is your ticket. It"s perfect for light painting, for example, or getting those cool shots of car tail lights streaking by. In Bulb mode, you set the aperture and ISO, then press and hold down the shutter button for as long as you want the exposure to last. It"s best to use a physical remote or the Canon Camera Connect app, and you"ll definitely want to use a tripod, to minimize camera shake.

Because the Canon EOS 80D is equipped with so many dedicated external buttons and dials, there"s not enough room to go over them here. But beyond the Q button, mentioned earlier, and the Mode dial, be sure to pay close attention to the functions of the Main Dial atop the camera as well as the Quick Control Dial on the rear of the body, because you will be using them frequently to change settings. The user manual has good descriptions of each button and dial.

The best way to capture action with the Canon 80D is to shoot in Shutter-priority, choose a fast shutter speed, and set the camera"s release mode to continuous shooting and autofocus to AI Servo.

Start off with a shutter speed between 1/250th of a second and 1/500th of a second. If there"s enough light, go for the latter; if the action is really fast — like in a car race — bump up the shutter speed even further. Set the appropriate aperture for the shutter speed and ISO (always keep ISO as low as possible).

Given that a flash can sometimes ruin the ambience of a scene and that the use of flash may be restricted (during a wedding ceremony or in a museum), you may need to turn to the 80D"s ISO for help. Ideally, keep the ISO under 3200 whenever possible, but more importantly, adjust the ISO so that the shutter speed and aperture setting meet your criteria. For example, be sure that the shutter speed is fast enough to avoid blur if you"re holding the camera in your hands. This speed differs for everyone, but I prefer at least 1/125th of a second.

To get this effect, choose Partial or Spot metering (press the Metering button, located farthest to the right in front of the top LCD panel), and turn the front command dial to select one or the other.

When shooting in low light, the 80D"s AF points light up red when focus is achieved (the focus points don"t light up when you"re shooting in bright light). If there"s not enough light and contrast for autofocus to lock in on your subject, switch to manual focus.

To ensure that the emphasis is on your subject and not the surrounding scene, use either P (Program AE) or Av (Aperture-priority) exposure modes so you control the aperture. Choose a fairly wide (low f-stop number) aperture setting to create a shallow depth of field and focus on your subject"s eye (the one closest to the camera). Shallow depth of field will soften the scene surrounding the subject but keep the subject sharply focused.

Video capture using a DSLR can be intimidating, but it doesn"t have to be. First, make sure you have a high-speed SD card with plenty of capacity. You can find details in the manual, but aim for an absolute minimum of 8GB capacity and a Class 10 speed.

If you"re new to video or just want to go the quick and easy route, set the mode dial to A+ and check the ISO to ensure that it"s as low as possible. Move the Live View switch (to the right of the viewfinder) to the red camcorder icon. The mirror will flip up, and you"ll see the scene on the LCD. Then press the start/stop button that is encircled by the Live View switch, and you"ll be good to go — the camera will take care of focus and exposure.

For more control, set the mode dial to M (manual); use the ISO button to set your ISO (the lower, the better but be sure it"s less than ISO 3200). Then move the Live View switch to the red camcorder icon. Press the Menu button, and in Shooting Menu 3, choose the Neutral (N) picture style. In Shooting Menu 4, set Movie Servo AF to Enable, and choose the Face detection + Tracking AF method. For Movie record quality, start with FHD 29.97 (30fps) and choose MP4/Standard IPB. Leave Sound recording to Auto for now. You can always explore the other options later on.

Since you"re in Manual exposure mode, it"s up to you to set the shutter speed and aperture. The general rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should be double the frames-per-second rate. At 30 fps, set your shutter speed to 1/60th of a second; then adjust the aperture (and ISO, if necessary) to get the proper exposure. When holding the camera by hand, be sure to set the lens"s image stabilization (if available) to on; otherwise, leave the IS off and use a tripod. Press the start/stop button when you"re ready to start shooting.

The 80D shoots excellent video, and with the proper settings, you"re sure to get some great footage that you"ll want to share with family and friends.

The recently announced Canon STM lens uses STM stepping motor  that makes the lens perfect for Still and Video shooting from Canon 80D camera.  The Lens supports Movie Servo Function of the Canon 80D camera and will give you near silent shooting experience without adding the AF noise of the lens in your videos.

The Best portrait Lens for Professional still work, yes even better than Canon 50mm F1.2 L and cost less. The lens gives you super sharp images even when used at wide maximum aperture range. Believe me if you use this lens on 5DSR camera will get perfect sharpness at maximum resolution.   The sharpness is incredible in the corners and lack of chromatic aberrations makes it perfect for professional work.

Canon 17-55mm F2.8 need no introduction, the lens features constant F2.8 aperture and built in image stabilization. The lens generates excellent bokeh at F2.8 and gives you sharp images throughout the zoom range, keep in mind that lens is not too expensive for the quality you receive.

Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Lens is world only lens zoom lens that features constant F1.8 aperture throughout the zoom range. The lens is low-light friendly and gives out excellent images with creamy bokeh. This lens is now on top of my Canon 7D Mk II camera all the time.

We recommend you to get 70-300mm L IS USM lens if you want pro output from your images. The 70-300mm L IS USM is undoubtedly the best zoom lens for Canon 80D DSLR, the lens produces tack sharp images even at the 300mm end. The Lens is also very good at street shooting due to its Two mode optical Image Stabilization System increases usability by approximately four stops.

Alternative: If you are on budget you can get 70-300mm Non L Lens [Canon EF 70-300mm F4-5.6 IS USM], captures stunning images when used at F7 aperture

On of the best lenses ever made by Canon, the 70-200mm is a multi-purpose lens can be used for sports, wildlife photography or you can also use this lens to capture stunning portraits with super creamy bokeh. The ultrasonic AF motor of this Lens Lock AF in no time, it produces extremely sharp images with enormous amount of details. The IS II Optical Image Stabilizer provides up to 4 stops of correction at all focal lengths. One of the best lenses Canon ever made.

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens was introduced back on 2004, the lens and waiting to be replaced by a new version, the lens does offers bit sharp images when compared to Canon 10-18mm lens when used at Max aperture, but when you use them at standard aperture settings used for capturing Landscape or Architecture, you won’t going to notice any difference. Canon 10-18mm lens is the best choice for you if you want best wide-angle zoom lens made by Canon.

If you are a DXO Mark Lab fan than you must know that the DXOMark score of Canon 10-22mm USM Lens is 13 and Canon 10-18mm STM IS Lens score is 12. Very minor difference in optics quality of both the lenses.

The Canon 10-18mm Lens is the most affordable and best wide angle lens that you could find. The picture quality is good and STM motors inside the lens offers silent and fast autofocusing.  The lens also features built-in image stabilization that 10-22mm lens is actually missing/ Also recommended for still as well as video purpose.

One of the best third party lens available for Canon 80D camera is Tokina 11-16mm lens, the lens will give you outstanding image quality and sharp images, yep even better than Canon made 10-18mm Lens, for this lens only I have included the MTF chart of the lens so you can see the lens produces super sharp images even when used at wide aperture setting .

The best macro lenses for Canon 80D camera is 100mm F2.8 Lens, the 100mm lens can also be used to take stunning close-up portrait shots. The features Canon’s Hybrid Image Stabilization Technology that helps you to capture hand-held shots without the use of tripods all the time.  It’s near-silent Ultrasonic focusing and high quality optics that delivers excellent color and contrast and the lens also features dust and moist resistance body, highly recommended for canon 80D DSLR.

The best all in one Lens available for Canon 80D camera is undoubtedly Canon 17-55mm F2.8 Lens but once I have used the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Lens it changed my mind. The Canon 17-55mm F2.8 lens will cost you approx same as Sigma lens but by losing some focal length you get a F1.8 Zoom Lens. With Sigam F1.8 you get super creamy Bokeh, excellent low light performance and sharpness is unmatched. It’s a perfect PRO lens for a camera like EOS 80D.

For those who want a perfect zoom lens for your Canon 80D camera we recommend you to get 70-300mm L IS USM lens, it’s one of the prefect zoom lens Canon ever made. But sadly it’s cost more than the camera body itself.

For those who want to get perfect landscape and architecture shot we recommend you to get 10-18mm STM lens, of course many old photographers will recommend you to go and buy 10-22mm USM but don’t listen to them. I do agree that 10-22mm s slightly sharper which is visible during lab test. Otherwise the 10-18mm lens is affordable  ($599 vs $279) and STM lens will allow you to record noise free video (lens is optimized for video recording) and feature built-in optical image stabilization (OIS absent in 10-22mm). Hence we highly recommend you to get 10-18mm STM if you are interested in landscapes and other wide-angle photos.

Canon 80d AF system is based on two different architecture. The first one is DualPixel CMOS AF system that works perfectly in all Canon native lenses as well as third party lenses. The Dual Pixel AF system is completely an different approach and it doesn’t affected by the type of lenses being used. But for the 45 points phase AF module we do have some limitations in certain category of lenses. And for that Canon further divided all these lenses lenses into 8 groups that begin from A and ends on H.

The image above shows you the pattern of AF points available while using the set of recommended lenses, However I repeat again while you use the Live view or video mode the DPAF (Dual Pixel CMOS AF sensor) AF system  gets activated and it work flawlessly in all lenses.

Camera Connect can be downloaded from the App Store or Google Play. Install Camera Connect on the smartphone and then perform the procedures to establish the connection.

When an NFC-enabled smartphone is touched to the camera before installing Camera Connect, the download screen of Camera Connect will be displayed on the smartphone.

Please refer to the "Related information" section at the bottom of this page for specifications and system requirements of the smartphones which can be connected wirelessly.

Interface or functions of Camera Connect are subject to change due to application improvements or updates. In such a case, features may differ from the sample screens or operation instructions shown here.

When the camera is connected to another device wirelessly, the nickname will be displayed on the device. Be sure to set a nickname as otherwise you cannot set the wireless functions.

If your Camera Connect version is 2.7.10 or later, check the Android OS version of your smartphone. If the version is 10.0 or later, you cannot connect to the camera using NFC functionality. Proceed to "Step 2-B: Connect the camera and smartphone (Connect wirelessly)".

Just holding the smartphone close to the mark may not establish a connection. Be sure to touch the mark with the smartphone so that they come into contact with each other.

A connection cannot be established using the NFC function while shooting with the camera, when the Live View shooting/Movie shooting switch is set to [

When touching the smartphone to the camera, do not leave anything between the camera and smartphone. In addition, when a case is attached to the camera or smartphone, communication may not be possible via NFC function.

By default, the connection settings via the NFC function are saved as the fourth setting (a setting dedicated to NFC connection) under the name [SET4(NFC)]. When you connect the camera to another smartphone via NFC, [SET4(NFC)] will be overwritten.

Finishing the text entryPress the < MENU > button to confirm what you have entered and exit. If a confirmation dialog is displayed, select [OK] to exit.

As well as its dual Pixel AF imaging sensor, the 80D also gets its conventional phase-detection AF system updated to a system with 45 cross-type AF points when you"re shooting through the viewfinder. In 45-point auto select mode the EOS 80D uses a new 7560 pixel RGB+IR metering sensor to assist the autofocus system in tracking subjects. This metering sensor, while not as advanced as the 150,000-pixel RGB metering sensor found in the 7D Mark II, gives the 80D better subject awareness than its predecessor.

When it comes to through the viewfinder AF performance, the 80D is without question better than its predecessor, which only offered 19 all cross-type points and used a 63-zone dual layer sensor for tracking. But it is clear, both from the camera"s specifications and from field use, that the 80D"s AF system is not as advanced as that of the higher-priced EOS 7D Mark II. Unlike the 7D II, Canon doesn"t brand the 80D"s focus tracking as "iTR" (Intelligent Tracking and Recognition), which could reflect the use of a different algorithm as well as the lower resolution of the metering/recognition sensor. The 7D II also has more AF points (65), and offers a substantially easier method of manually moving AF points (via a dedicated joystick).

The 80D also lacks a dedicated AF menu. Instead, there is a section within the Custom Function menu dedicated to AF adjustments. But more on that below.

The AF Area Selector button, located between the shutter release and control dial, is an effective way to quickly switch between the four AF area modes.

When shooting through the viewfinder, there are four focus area modes including Single-point, Zone, Large Zone and 45-point Auto Selection. Depending on your shooting scenario, each of the modes can prove useful.

In the Zone mode, a 3x3 point square can be moved around the 45-point array to one of nine positions. In the Large Zone mode, a 3x5 point rectangle can be moved to one of three positions.

When shooting in single AF acquisition mode, AF acquisition speed is generally fast (though lens dependent) and focus tends to be both accurate and precise.

The 80D has a center AF point that"s sensitive down to -3EV. That translates to an ability to acquire focus, even in VERY dim light. In my real world testing, I found the 80D had no issues acquiring focus using its center point in any low light situation I encountered. We also tested the 80D"s center point sensitivity in the lab and found it could acquire focus in conditions even darker than -3EV.

Additionally, we tested the 80D"s dual pixel AF in live view against the Sony a6300 and found the Canon was able to focus in even dimmer light (using Live view) than the Sony, which is very impressive.

There are essentially two methods for photographing a moving subject using continuous AF. There"s the tried and true method of selecting a single AF point or Zone, and attempting to keep the subject within that area by moving the camera. And then there is subject tracking, where you tell the camera who or what you"d like to track, and it attempts to do so, while also maintaining focus.

Of the two, the former is something most modern hybrid AF systems have no trouble with and Canon DSLRs in particular have historically excelled in this area. However, as our roll-over above demonstrates, the 80D does seem to struggle at least moderately at maintaining focus using a single point. This is especially true when shooting at its top burst speed of 7 fps. The above demonstration is representative of our findings from multiple tests using a single point while also firing at the camera"s top burst rate.

Through the viewfinder subject tracking can prove difficult for even pro-level DSLRs. We"ve already established on the live view page, that the 80D can track subjects such as faces, at close distances quite well using Dual Pixel AF. But when it comes to tracking subjects at far distances with telephoto lenses, Live view isn"t useful. So what about that 45-point phase-detection AF array?

I first tried the 80D"s 45-point Auto Select tracking mode at a University of Washington women"s tennis match. Once I figured out how to turn off the auto AF point selection and turn on the manual AF point selection (more on that below*), I was fairly impressed by the 80D"s ability to maintain focus and track tennis players.

*Note: By default 45-point Auto Select tries to "guess" the subject to track, often very poorly. I highly recommend enabling manual AF point selection from within the Custom Function menu. Doing so allows you to place a point over the subject you want to track. Pressing the shutter release half way enables tracking.

For sports where your subject is isolated against a relatively simple background, like tennis, the 45-Point Auto Select mode is very effective for subject tracking. But for scenes with complex backgrounds and/or multiple subjects and/or unpredictable motion, the 45-Point Auto Selection mode is easily confused. This was the case when we tried to use it to photograph rugby. ISO 250, 1/2000 sec at F5. Shot using the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM at 100mm.

However, tennis is one of the easiest real-world subject tracking scenarios. This is because movement is limited to a fairly small space and the background is usually pretty uncluttered and distinct from the player. In the case of the match I attended, being able to shoot from above made for an even cleaner background. Essentially, my first real world test gave the 80D"s subject tracking every chance possible to succeed and it did.

But what about a more complex shooting scenario? Our technical editor, Rishi Sanyal, brought the 80D along with him to a rugby match and found the movement of the players coupled with having multiple potential subjects at the same distance made for a near impossible scenario for the 80D"s tracking to be of any use. Add in distractions (players) in the foreground and you have an even more challenging tracking scenario.

We brought the 80D to a rugby match to test out its tracking capabilities along with several other cameras. While we only shot part of the game with the Canon, this was one of the few sharp frames we ended up with. Edit to taste in ACR. ISO 100, 1/2000 sec at F5.6. Shot using the EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM kit zoom at 135mm. Photo: Rishi Sanyal

So after trying to the 80D"s subject tracking in two very different real-world situations and getting different results, we decided to run it through our bike test, which is a good happy medium between the two scenarios described above: The movement of the cyclist in this test is unpredictable (from the camera"s point-of-view), but the subject is very distinct in depth from the background. Also, there is nothing in the foreground to distract the camera (as was often the case in our rugby shooting).

Not surprisingly, the results from this demonstration fell somewhere between Rishi"s experience and mine: many images are out of focus, but not all. The 80D often failed to drive the focus to the right depth toward the middle of the burst, only to do so later on.

After pulling the frames from the subject tracking test into Canon"s Digital Photo Professional and viewing which AF points were used, I noticed something interesting: while many of the frames were out of focus, the correct AF points were often illuminated over the subject. This indicates that while the camera is able to detect and track where the subject is in the frame, the AF system is simply unable to acquire focus quickly enough during the burst.

Unlike pro-level Canon DSLRs, that feature a dedicated AF menu, many AF adjustments are found within the Custom Fn. menu on the 80D. The first three parameters that can be adjusted (shown in the table below) are related to AF tracking. Unfortunately, the camera gives little indication as to what scenarios would benefit from adjusting these three parameters.

Higher-end Canon DSLRs group these three options into a series of presets aimed at specific shooting scenarios, such as "For subjects that accelerate or decelerate quickly" and "For erratic subjects moving quickly in any direction." Users simply pick the scenario that applies to what they are shooting. But on the 80D the settings are listed separately with no clues given for how to configure them.

If it seems odd that Canon essentially made the AF tuning settings in relation to subject tracking more complicated in the 80D than in their higher-end cameras, I tend to agree. For the most part, during my testing, I left many of these options in their default positions. However, depending on what you are shooting, you may benefit from adjusting some. We"ve listed out all of the options below:

Orientation linked AF points: Same for vertical and horizontal, Separate AF point for vertical and horizontal (area and point), Separate AF point for vertical and horizontal (point only)

Initial AF point selection in AI Servo, 45-point auto select: Auto, Initial AF point (the last point selected before switching to 45-point auto select will be used), Manually select AF point

The default setting in the table above is the first option listed. Option 9 in particular deserves calling out, as it allows you to toggle your AF area selection method between the AF area selection button and the Multi-controller.

We also highly recommend switching option 11 from its default, to "Manually select AF point," before using the 45-point Auto Selection AF mode during through the viewfinder shooting.

Shoot in live view using the Face+Tracking mode in Servo. Either tap on your subject using the touchscreen to maintain focus, or let the camera automatically focus on the nearest face to the camera.

Shoot through the viewfinder using the single-point or one of the Zone modes in AI Servo, keeping your point or zone over the subject. Consider shooting at a slower burst rate than 7 fps for a better hit rate.

Shoot through the viewfinder, using the 45-point Auto Select mode in AI Servo. Make sure to turn on manual AF point selection. Hold your point over the subject and half press the shutter release to start tracking.

For photographing a moving subject at a distance in burst mode or single-shot mode, you"ll still get best results shooting through the viewfinder using a single-point or Zone mode. There are instances where the 45-point Auto selection mode can prove useful at tracking and maintaining focus, but only when the subject is distinct from the background and the movement reasonably predictable.

For photographing people, individuals or a group at close distances, the Face+Tracking mode in live view gives great results. Shooting bursts in live view is not recommended, due to the lack of a live feed and a drop in burst rate.

The Canon EOS 77D is a new prosumer APS-C DSLR camera. The EOS 77D features a 24.2 megapixel CMOS sensor, Dual-Pixel CMOS AF system which offers continuous autofocus during live view stills shooting, pentamirror viewfinder with 95% coverage and 0.82x magnification, 3-inch vari-angle LCD touchscreen with 1040k-dots, 1080p Full HD video up to 60fps in MP4 format, 6fps burst shooting, 45 all cross-type point AF system, DIGIC 7 image processor, 7560-pixel RGB+IR metering system, built-in wi-fi, bluetooth and NFC connectivity, 5-axis digital image stabilizer for movies, and an ISO range of 100-51200. The Canon EOS 77D sits below the older EOS 80D and above the equally new EOS 800D (Rebel T7i) and is available priced at £829.99 / $849 for the body only or £919 / $999 with the new EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM lens.

From the outside the new Canon EOS 77D looks very similar to its big brother, the EOS 80D, which we reviewed a year ago. Measuring 131.0 x 99.9 x 76.2 mm, it"s similar in size to the 80D, but substantially lighter at 540g including the battery and memory card. There"s a textured area on both the deep hand-grip on the front and around the thumb-rest on the rear of the 77D, and this camera is well-suited to everyone with normal to large-sized hands. The 77D uses an aluminum alloy and polycarbonate resin with glass fiber chassis, which accounts for the difference in weight compared to the EOS 80D, but note that, unlike the 80D, it isn"t weather-sealed.

On more basic SLRs, adjustments are usually made using a combination of buttons and a single control wheel. This is fine for novices, but awkward for more experienced photographers who want to be able to quickly adjust a combination of exposure, shutter speed or aperture. Like Canon"s other semi-pro cameras, the Canon EOS 77D offers two control wheels; one on the top of the handgrip, and a large, spinning dial on the back of the camera. This rear quick control dial is characteristic of all high-end Canon EOS cameras. It"s a bit of an acquired taste compared to more conventional control dials, but you quickly get used to it and it is easy enough to spin.

The 77D also has a conventional four-way controller set within the rear quick control dial, rather than the joystick that higher-end Canon DSLRs use, making it better suited to upgraders from the more consumer-orientated 760D / Rebel T6s. The quick control dial features a lock switch positioned directly underneath which helps to prevent unintentional changes to your settings.

The 77D has a handy dedicated Q button on the rear which which opens the Quick Control screen. Depending on which shooting mode you"re using, this lets you set various parameters via the LCD screen, using either the four-way controller or the touch-screen to move around the various options. The Quick Control screen is particularly well-suited to beginners and tripod work.

The Canon EOS 77D features built-in wi-fi connectivity, which allows you to share images during playback via the Wi-Fi menu option. Enable the Wi-Fi menu option and the Wi-Fi Function option appears underneath, which contains six icons. The 77D can connect to another camera, a smartphone, a computer, a printer, the internet and a DNLA device respectively. Setup is long-winded but relatively straight-forward for each scenario, although you"ll need a basic understanding of the protocols involved (or consult the supplied User Guide). Note that you need to install the dedicated and free EOS Remote app to connect the 77D to the world"s most popular smartphone, or the Apple iPad and iPod Touch, or an Android device. You can then use your smartphone or tablet to remotely control almost every aspect of the camera"s operation, review images on a larger, more detailed screen and to transfer images between devices.

The 77D can tag your images with GPS data (latitude, longitude, altitude and shooting time) using the new always-on Bluetooth connection. We prefer having GPS built into the camera rather than having to sync it with an additional device, although it does consequently suffer from the issue of slightly affecting the battery life. The EOS 77D has also added built-in NFC, which allows you to quickly transfer images to a compatible smart device by simply tapping them together.

On top of the Canon EOS 77D, positioned above the status LCD display, are three buttons, each of which has a single function rather than the dual-function buttons of some Canon DSLRs. While this makes it simpler to understand and easier to operate with the camera held up to your eye, it does inevitably lead to more scrolling through the menu system. There are two LCD displays on the EOS 77D, the 3-inch colour LCD on the rear and the smaller status panel on the top. On cheaper cameras, the LCD on the rear usually has to do both jobs, but on this model most of the key settings are visible from above on the smaller panel. This can make the Canon EOS 77D quicker to use and it may also extend the battery life, depending on how extensively you use the LCD screen.

The main LCD screen offers a fantastic resolution of 1,040K dots, so you may find yourself using it more often than you thought. It allows you to judge the critical sharpness of your photos using the LCD screen, which has been a long-standing issue on Canon"s entry- and mid-range DSLRs. The screen also has an aspect ratio of 3:2 - i.e. identical to that of the sensor - so that the photos fill the screen completely, with no black stripes along the top and bottom.

The EOS 77D has an articulated screen, which helps to realise the full potential of Live View and video shooting. The high-res, free-angle LCD screen is much more than just a novelty - it"s a lot more versatile than the usual combination of optical viewfinder and fixed LCD, providing new angles of view and enhancing your overall creativity. Above all, it"s a fun way of composing your images. The EOS 77D’s viewfinder also has a built-in eye sensor, something that the older 80D doesn"t have.

The 77D is the latest EOS camera to feature a touch-screen. It supports a variety of multi-touch gestures, such as pinching and swiping, for choosing shooting modes, changing settings, tracking faces, selecting auto-focus points, and focusing and taking a picture in Live View mode. In playback you can swipe to move from image to image and pinch to zoom in and out, just like on an iPad or other tablet device. The ability to focus and take the shot with a single press of your finger on the screen makes it quick and easy to capture the moment.

The EOS 77D"s built-in pop-up flash features a built-in Integrated Speedlite Transmitter for controlling up to two groups of off-camera Speedlites without the need for an external transmitter. Note that the 77D still doesn"t have a PC Sync port for connecting the camera to external lights, limiting its use in studio environments. There"s also the expected hotshoe for use with one of Canon"s external flashguns.

Like most DSLRs aimed at beginners and amateurs, the EOS 77D provides a number of auto shooting modes aimed at beginners, including portrait, landscape, close-up, sports, night portrait, hand-held night scene, and HDR backlight control, grouped under the SCN option on the Mode dial on the top-left of the camera, which comes complete with a central lock button to prevent accidental movement. HDR Backlight takes three shots at different exposures and combines them into one with greater shadow and highlight detail, and the Hand-held Night scene mode takes multiple images at fast shutter speeds and blends them together for a sharp result. The fully-automatic Scene Intelligent Auto mode analyses the scene in front of you and automatically picking the best settings, much like the systems used by lot of digital compacts.

There are, of course, manual and semi-automatic modes for users who want more advanced exposure control. Canon refers to these advanced operations as the "creative zone" and provides all the normal settings including Program, Aperture and Shutter Priority and the full manual mode. Additionally, the Creative Auto mode is targeted at beginners who have grown out of using the Full Auto mode, allowing you to change a few key settings using the LCD screen via a simple slider system for changing the aperture and exposure compensation, or Background and Exposure as the camera refers to them.

Reflecting its more consumer-friendly nature, the 77D offers ten creative filters, which are only available when shooting in Live View mode and for JPEGs, not RAW files. These include Soft Focus, which dramatizes an image and smooths over any shiny reflections, Grainy Black and White creates that timeless look, Toy Camera adds vignetting and color shift, and Miniature Effect makes a scene appear like a small-scale model, simulating the look from a tilt-shift lens.

In addition a feature called Basic+ applies a creative ambiance to images when shooting in the Basic modes. Essentially a more extreme version of the well-established Picture Styles, Basic+ enhancements that can be applied to the scene modes include Vivid, Soft, Warm, Intense, Cool and Brighter. There"s also some control over what is essentially the white balance via the Shoot by Lighting effect, with the options being Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Tungsten, Flourescent and Sunset.

Once the EOS 77D is in the "creative zone", users can adjust the ISO setting to one of nine positions from 100 to H(51200), which is more than adequate for most lighting conditions. The EOS 77D offers a range of three Auto focus modes (One Shot, AI Focus and AI Servo), and there are six preset, auto, kelvin and custom white balance options. The pentamirror viewfinder, which offer 95% coverage and 0.82x magnification, displays key exposure information including ISO speed AF mode selection and metering.

The 77D uses a completely new 45-point auto-focus system, and all 45 of them are cross-type points, with the centre point being the extra sensitive double-cross type at f/2.8 and featuring EV-3 low-light sensitivity, helping to ensure that moving objects remain in focus even in very low light. There are four metering modes including a 4% Spot metering mode, useful in tricky lighting conditions as an alternative to the excellent and consistent Evaluative metering system. The 77D is the latest EOS camera to include infra-red and flickering light sensitivity, with the flicker detection mode automatically compensates for tricky indoor lighting by only taking the shot when the light levels are at their brightest level.

The Canon EOS 77D has a maximum shutter speed of 1/4000th sec, compared to the EOS 80D"s faster 1/8000th sec, and it also has a slower flash-sync speed of 1/200th sec compared to the EOS 80D"s 1/250th sec setting.

The menu system uses a simplified tab structure that does away completely with scrolling, with 15 colour-coded horizontal tabs (dependant upon the shooting mode) and up to 7 options in each one, providing quick and easy access to the various options. You can even setup your own customised menu page for instant access to frequently used settings via the My Menu tab. Only the complex Custom Functions menu detracts a little from the overall usability.

We tested the EOS 77D with the new EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM lens lens, which offers a fairly versatile focal range and crucially includes image stabilisation. This is important for Canon, as competitors like Sony, Olympus and Pentax all offer image stabilisation in their DSLRs. The difference between Canon (and Nikon) and the others is that Sony, Olympus and Pentax have opted for stabilisation via the camera body, rather than the lens, which therefore works with their entire range of lenses. Canon"s system is obviously limited by which lenses you choose, but it does offer the slight advantage of showing the stabilising effect through the viewfinder. Canon and Nikon also claim that a lens-based anti-shake system is inherently better too, but the jury"s out on that one.

The Canon EOS 77D offers fast, positive autofocus with the new kit lens, and can track moving subjects very well. The new EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM lens is also a very quiet performer, thanks to the built-in USM (ultra-sonic motor), which makes this lens well-suited to video recording and more candid photography. If you"re upgrading from an older or cheaper digital EOS model and already have a lens or lenses, you can also buy the 77D body-only.

The EOS 77D features the latest DIGIC 7 processor, which produces noticeably faster image processing, start-up and image review times, and better noise reduction in high-ISO images than older EOS cameras. The 77D can shoot in the fastest Continuous mode at a speed of 6fps for an unlimited number of full-sized JPEGs or 27 RAW images.

The 77D has a very similar Live View system to the 80D. If you"re new to DSLRs and don"t understand the terminology, basically Live View allows you to view the scene in front of you live on the LCD screen, rather than through the traditional optical viewfinder. This is an obvious attraction for compact camera users, who are familiar with holding the camera at arm"s length and composing via the LCD screen. It"s also appealing to macro shooters, for example, as it"s often easier to view the screen than look through the viewfinder when the camera is mounted on a tripod at an awkward angle.

There"s a dedicated Live View button on the rear of the camera to the right of the viewfinder, with the Off/On/Movie switch on the left allowing you to choose between Movie or Stills shooting. A horizontal Electronic Level and very useful live histogram can be enabled to help with composition and exposure, and you can zoom in by up to 10x magnification of the image displayed on the LCD screen. Focusing is achieved either via the AF-On Lock button or more conventionally by half-pressing the shutter-button. Live View can also be controlled remotely using the supplied EOS utility software, which allows you to adjust settings and capture the image from a PC.

Live View attempts to satisfy both the consumer and more technical user, with four types of focusing system on offer. Quick AF works by physically flipping the camera mirror to engage the auto-focus sensor, which then momentarily blanks the LCD screen and causes a physical sound, before the image is displayed after about 1/2 second.

The other methods, Flexizone Single, Flexizone Multi and AF + Tracking with Face Detection, use an image contrast auto-focus system, much like that used by point-and shoot compacts, the main benefits being the complete lack of noise during operation, and no LCD blackout, and additionally a phase-detection system that"s cleverly employed directly on the camera"s image sensor plane. All of the effective pixels on the EOS 77D"s CMOS sensor are able to perform both still imaging and phase-detection AF simultaneously (dubbed "Dual Pixel CMOS AF"), which makes the three Live View modes almost as quick as the Quick AF mode, especially the Flexizone Single mode, taking a less than a second to focus on a clearly-defined subject in bright light. You can also move the AF point anywhere around the middle 80% of the frame, and the 77D successfully and quickly detected faces in most situations.

The EOS 77D is the latest Canon DSLR to offer AI Servo autofocussing in live view. Providing you half press the 77D"s shutter release, it"ll maintain focus before and during a shot with no focusing hesitation at the point of shooting, which is great if you spend a lot of time photographing moving subjects through live view.

Live View and Dual Pixel CMOS AF are also used for the Canon EOS 77D"s movie mode. If you turn the On/Off switch to the third position denoted by the movie camera icon and then press the dedicated Movie button to the right of the viewfinder, the camera will enter the Movie Live View mode. Before you start filming, you need to focus on the subject either manually or using auto focus as described above. Note that you cannot set the aperture, shutter speed (within limits) or ISO manually, only AE lock and exposure compensation if you feel a need for it. Once everything is set up, you can start filming by hitting the dedicated Movie button again.

The EOS 77D offers a choice of 60/50/30/35/24fps when recording Full 1920x1080 HD video clips in either the ALL-I or IPB codecs with optional embedded time code, and 60/50/20/25fps when shooting at 720p, complete with a new five-axis Digital IS system if you choose to turn it on, which helps to stabilise video footage when a non-stabilised lens is used. Note however that the available frame rates are also dependent on what you have set in the menu under "Video system": NTSC or PAL.

The EOS 77D will automatically adjust focus during filming, and you can initiate auto-focus at any time while recording a clip. However, be warned that this can do more harm than good, as, depending on the lens, the microphone can pick up the sound of the focus motor, and the subject might even go out of focus for a second or two.

Basic in-camera movie editing allows you to shorten a video file by clipping segments from the beginning or the end. There is a built-in microphone for stereo recording, and you can connect an external microphone equipped with a stereo mini plug to the camera"s external microphone IN terminal. Note that there is no headphone jack for audio monitoring, as on the EOS 80D. You can manually adjust the sound recording level in 64 steps to help ensure that the audio track matches the visual quality of the video, and there"s also an electronic Wind Filter.

The EOS 77D uses the same dust-removal technology as previous models, where the sensor is shaken briefly at high frequency to dislodge any dust particles from its surface. This could delay the need for manual sensor cleaning, perhaps indefinitely, but it won"t be able to remove "sticky" deposits like salt spray, pollen or the smears left behind by careless sensor cleaning or the wrong kind of solvent. The 77D also inherits the internal Dust Delete Data system from the 80D, which can map the position of visible dust on the sensor. This can then be deleted automatically after the shoot with the supplied Digital Photo Professional software.

Lens Aberration Correction is a feature that"s actually a lot simpler that it initially sounds. Basically it corrects the unwanted effects of vignetting, typically seen in wide-angle photos in the corners of the frame, and chromatic aberrations, otherwise known as purple fringing. The 77D contains a database of correction data for many Canon lenses and, if Lens Aberration Correction is enabled, automatically applies it to JPEG images. For RAW images the correction is applied later in the Digital Photo Professional software. Up to 40 lenses can be programmed into the 77D, with over 80 currently available to choose from. Lens Aberration Correction is a useful and effective addition, particularly for JPEG shooters, and can safely be left turned on all of the time.

Once you have captured a photo, the Canon EOS 77D has an average range of options for playing, reviewing and managing your images. More information about a captured image can be seen on the LCD by pressing the Info button, which brings up an image histogram and all the shooting Exif data, including shutter speed and the time and date it was captured, with a second press displaying an additional RGB histogram. It is simple to get a closer look at an image as users can zoom in up to 15 times, and it is also possible to view pictures in a set of nine contact sheet. You can also delete an image, rotate an image, view a slideshow, protect images so that they cannot be deleted, and set various printing options. A rating of 1 to 5 can be assigned to your images in-camera, and these tags can also be viewe