ge profile refrigerator lcd screen not working free sample

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We have a GE Profile refrigerator model #PSHS6TGXCSS. It was unplugged and moved to another plug temporarily due to some work we had happening in the house. When we opened the fridge we noticed the compressor isn’t running, it’s not cooling, the front display panel is not working, but the lights are on inside. We tried to reset it by unplugging and moving it back to its original outlet, but nothing changes- it is still not working. Is there anything we can do to get it working again- another way to reset, diagnose, any fuses, etc? We can’t imagine unplugging it would have caused it to completely stop working!

Take multiple measurements of your space (rather than the existing fridge) to find the maximum width, depth, and height. Seriously—take multiple measurements of each dimension in case your floors turn out to be crooked. Remember to measure any baseboards or trim.

Build in some buffer space for ventilation. Make it about 1 inch on the top and sides and at least 2 inches at the back. If you jam your fridge in tighter, the fridge’s heat exchange might have to work harder than it was designed to. That can hurt its ability to hold the proper temperatures and might wear out the cooling system faster than its intended lifespan (usually 10 years, according to most manufacturers we’ve talked to).

Measure the rest of your kitchen. The layout of the rest of your kitchen matters, too. If you have a kitchen island, measure the distance from the wall to the edge of that counter to account for the door swing. In this situation, a counter-depth model, or one with half-width doors (like a French-door or side-by-side model) might make the most sense. If your fridge will sit close to a wall, think about whether the door will be able to swing open wide enough for you to pull out crisper drawers or deli trays. A single-door fridge (like a top-freezer or bottom-freezer model), with the hinge on the opposite side from the wall, might be your best bet.

Measure your doorways. You can take the doors off the fridge to get a few extra inches, but there are some fridges that you just cannot get inside of certain kitchens.

As long as a fridge fits your space, there’s no wrong size. You can put a small, affordable top-freezer fridge in a big cutout meant for a humongous, expensive French-door model. It might look a little odd, but it’ll work fine. Bigger fridges do tend to make people much happier than smaller ones, according to our reader survey and analysis of customer reviews. Many people buy the widest fridge that fits their space and budget (often 36 inches) and often one that’s very deep (34 inches or more), too.

Determine the depth you want.Although bigger fridges tend to make people happier than smaller ones, customer reviews indicate that the benefits peter out around 20 cubic feet, which is roughly the size of a fridge that’s 36 inches wide but slightly shallower than usual—also known as counter depth. So, even if a deeper, standard-depth fridge fits your space, we think a counter-depth refrigerator is worth considering. According to our analysis of customer reviews, people who own counter-depth fridges (most models, anyway) usually find that the fridges have plenty of capacity, and they tend to be equally happy with their fridges overall. Counter-depth fridges are also arguably easier to organize and look better in most kitchens, plus they tend to use a bit less energy.

After size, you get to decide what else is important to you, in whichever order you choose. Here are the rest of the criteria that most people seem to focus on when they’re thinking about their fridges (in declining order of popularity, roughly), with some advice on how to navigate the choices:

Decide between freestanding or built-in.The only true difference between these types of fridges is that freestanding models have finished sides, while built-in fridges do not because they’re designed to sit flush with and attach to (or even blend in with) cabinetry. Built-ins also cost at least $4,000, can be much wider than freestanding fridges, and are rarely available in top-freezer configurations (but much more commonly available in all-fridge or all-freezer columns). This AJ Madison primer has some additional details on style and sizing options for built-ins. (AJ Madison is a major appliance retailer that carries most brands of refrigerators, both freestanding and built-in.)

Freestanding full-size fridges can be as cheap as $650 or cost thousands of dollars like some built-ins. Since freestanding fridges are much, much more affordable, that’s the type that the overwhelming majority of people buy, so that’s what we focus on in this guide. But some of this guide applies to built-in fridges, too.

Consider reliability. More than half of the respondents in our reader survey said that reliability was one of the top three most important things they wanted in a new fridge. Unfortunately, nobody has a crystal ball that can predict which brand or model—or especially individual refrigerator units on sale today—will last the longest and have the fewest problems. However, after digging through Wirecutter survey responses and retail customer reviews and examining other publicly available data, we have some leads about the brands, fridge types, and even specific models that may be most prone to problems.

Think through what you want for capacity, shelving, and organization. These closely related qualities are highly important to most fridge owners. More than half of the readers who filled out our survey cited one of these three things as a top priority in their fridge, and size or layout was mentioned in at least 25% of the customer reviews we analyzed for any individual fridge. For higher-end models with specialized organization features (such as a door-in-door system or a two-drawer French-door model), size and layout were usually cited in more than 50% of reviews, and the sentiment was largely positive.

French-door models earn much more praise and less criticism related to shelving, storage, and organization than side-by-side or top-freezer fridges. One review on Home Depot"s website (collected as part of a promotion, which is common) encapsulates a lot of the praise: “I save on groceries because I can actually see everything,” writes JManigault201 about a French-door model, adding, “I don"t have to bend so low to get items out of my fridge. The [drawers] on the freezer make it easy to see my food without having to reach so far back.” The exception here is counter-depth French-door fridges with door dispensers: Owners are more likely to cite these models as being cramped or hard to organize, we found.

In general, we learned that most people are comfortable with the size of their fridge. Complaints about small capacity are just as common among huge 26-cubic-foot models as they are among 16-cubic-foot models, for example. It really has more to do with the shelving and layout. If you want an enormous fridge, by all means, get one. But you might not need quite as much space as you think. (Just to put the idea in your head: We think that if you’re looking for a 36-inch-wide fridge, you’ll probably be happy with a counter-depth fridge.)

Think twice about an ice maker and door dispenser. Most people seem to think that a built-in ice maker is worth having. But automatic ice makers, especially the kind that dispenses ice through the refrigerator door, are both wonderfully convenient and one of the most finicky, problem-prone parts of a fridge. In our reader survey, 24% of respondents said that their ice maker had jammed or completely broken, by far the most common hardware-based failure. That’s particularly notable considering that 17% of respondents didn’t even have an automatic ice maker or said that they didn’t think about this feature.

Some upscale fridges even have specialty ice features, like LG’s Craft Ice clear spheres (38% of the owners of one model whose reviews we analyzed cited Craft Ice as one of their favorite features).

We looked for patterns in the types of fridges that are most prone to ice-maker problems, but we couldn’t find any. Ice-maker reliability, as far as we can tell, depends on the specific model of refrigerator, not its brand, door type, or price.

For example: One Samsung French-door fridge, the RF28R7201SR, has a terrible ice maker, with 40% of owners complaining that it jams regularly, according to our AI-assisted analysis of customer reviews. (It was by far the worst service record we came across.) But the similar Samsung RF27T5201SR has far fewer complaints, with 10% of owners complaining about ice jams (still a bad rate). And then the nearly identical-looking Samsung RF28R7551S had essentially no complaints about its ice maker jamming at the time we did the analysis. Similar trends play out among other brands (though none even come close to the failure rate on that first Samsung model).

Consider the finish. Stainless steel is still the trendy-yet-attainable choice, as it has been for a few decades, and is widely regarded as an option that looks good in most kitchens. (Though a common complaint is that it’s a pain to keep fingerprint-free, even for models with supposedly fingerprint-resistant finishes.)

Different brands have slightly different looks to their stainless—some are more reflective, some have a more pronounced brushed-metal look, some are more fingerprint resistant. If this matters to you, check out some fridges in person.

There are plenty of other finishes to pick from, though they’re available on fewer models. Other neutral, brushed-metal finishes such as black stainless or slate are common. Glossy black and white are still widely available, particularly on cheaper fridges. Whirlpool and GE sell a bisque finish, though we aren’t sure whether this cream color is a throwback to or a holdover from the ’80s. Bolder, brighter colors (or even prints) are available, too, though they tend to be reserved for upscale models and only from certain brands.

Choose a model that maximizes efficiency and sustainability.Refrigerators are much more energy efficient than they were 15 and especially 30 years ago due to stricter efficiency regulations from the Department of Energy, as well as stronger incentives from the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star program. And as of summer 2021, all of the major brands now claim to use a climate-friendly refrigerant in at least some of their lineups—and a couple have transitioned all of their new fridges in that regard. So without even trying hard, you’ll probably end up with an environmentally sound refrigerator.

Cooling performance and food preservation:Some fridges are probably better at keeping foods fresher and more appetizing for longer, but we haven’t yet looked into the science of how that works or which features to look for. Consumer Reports tests and rates refrigerators for temperature consistency, defined as how quickly (and accurately) each fridge reaches the temperature on its thermostat and how well it holds that temperature as the ambient temperature around the fridge changes. This capability probably has something to do with maintaining freshness, so you could check Consumer Reports’s reviews if you think this will matter.

What we can tell you is that after analyzing more than 28,000 customer reviews across 34 different fridges, it is very uncommon to find criticism of fridges for doing a poor job keeping foods fresh, outside of cases where the cooling system was obviously defective or broken.

When people do complain, it’s usually because the temperature throughout the fridge compartment is uneven: Portions of the door are too warm for milk, for example, or the very top or bottom of the cavity gets so cold that lettuce freezes and turns into disgusting mush. This happens with only some fridges, even if they’re working properly. The problem seems more common among lower-cost top-freezer models, and higher-end models with a door-in-door feature might struggle to hold dairy-safe temperatures in their door shelves. Consumer Reports also tests for this type of temperature uniformity, if you’d like to see performance results for specific models.

Noise:When refrigerators are functioning properly, they do not make enough noise to irritate the vast majority of people. But any refrigerator can become kind of noisy when it’s malfunctioning, and certain models seem more prone to developing these nuisance noises than others. Low-cost top-freezer models tend to run a little louder in the first place and seem to be a bit more prone to nuisance noises, too. But certain larger, pricier models seem more likely to whine or thunk or whirr, and there’s no obvious reason that we’ve been able to discern. We’ve tried to avoid linking to those models in this guide.

SmartHQ lets you manage and control a variety of smart Appliances from GE Appliances, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Fisher & Paykel, and Haier to give you total control of your headquarters, your home.

• NOTIFICATIONS – Receive helpful alerts from your smart appliance that tell you when your oven is finished pre-heating or if you left the refrigerator door open and many others

Requires a compatible SmartHQ enabled Refrigerator, Dishwasher, Wall Oven/Range, Washer, Dryer, Window Air Conditioner, Portable Air Conditioners, Duct-free System, Whole Home Water Filter System, Water Softener, and Water Heater, or with a U+ Connect module. U+ Connect modules can be purchased online: https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/spec/PBX23W00Y0?SpecType=SpecType

If you’re unsure what the exact problem is with your refrigerator and you’d like to find out before you commit to hiring a professional, call your manufacturer’s customer service. Many refrigerators now feature technology that allows them to run remote diagnostics that can identify your problem. This will either take the form of connecting your refrigerator to your home’s WiFi so that customer service can access it, or transmitting a series of diagnostic codes over the phone that customer service can translate into data on the issue.

If you decide to hire a professional, you’ll want to consider the cost of the repair quoted. Excluding broken or faulty compressors, the median refrigerator repair costs for seven specific problems that we track in our survey—including icemakers not making ice, fridges not cooling, and dispensers not working—range from about $150 to $240. The median repair cost for compressors is much higher, at $562.

Of course, those costs reflect completed repairs. Our data doesn’t factor in the estimated cost of repairs that CR members passed on for being too expensive. Indeed, 27 percent of CR members who discarded their refrigerator instead of repairing it cited expensive repair costs as their reason for doing so.

Keep in mind that some professionals will charge a fee for the initial visit to diagnose the problem and give you an estimate for a repair. If you decide to use them for the job, they’ll typically put the fee toward the total repair cost. This means, however, that it can be costly to shop around for repairs.

Here’s a big-picture look at the data that feeds the tool above. Considering the cost of many refrigerators, it often pays to invest in a repair even when you’ve had yours for as long as 10 years.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

If you’re unsure what the exact problem is with your refrigerator and you’d like to find out before you commit to hiring a professional, call your manufacturer’s customer service. Many refrigerators now feature technology that allows them to run remote diagnostics that can identify your problem. This will either take the form of connecting your refrigerator to your home’s WiFi so that customer service can access it, or transmitting a series of diagnostic codes over the phone that customer service can translate into data on the issue.

If you decide to hire a professional, you’ll want to consider the cost of the repair quoted. Excluding broken or faulty compressors, the median refrigerator repair costs for seven specific problems that we track in our survey—including icemakers not making ice, fridges not cooling, and dispensers not working—range from about $150 to $240. The median repair cost for compressors is much higher, at $562.

Of course, those costs reflect completed repairs. Our data doesn’t factor in the estimated cost of repairs that CR members passed on for being too expensive. Indeed, 27 percent of CR members who discarded their refrigerator instead of repairing it cited expensive repair costs as their reason for doing so.

Keep in mind that some professionals will charge a fee for the initial visit to diagnose the problem and give you an estimate for a repair. If you decide to use them for the job, they’ll typically put the fee toward the total repair cost. This means, however, that it can be costly to shop around for repairs.

Here’s a big-picture look at the data that feeds the tool above. Considering the cost of many refrigerators, it often pays to invest in a repair even when you’ve had yours for as long as 10 years.

Take multiple measurements of your space (rather than the existing fridge) to find the maximum width, depth, and height. Seriously—take multiple measurements of each dimension in case your floors turn out to be crooked. Remember to measure any baseboards or trim.

Build in some buffer space for ventilation. Make it about 1 inch on the top and sides and at least 2 inches at the back. If you jam your fridge in tighter, the fridge’s heat exchange might have to work harder than it was designed to. That can hurt its ability to hold the proper temperatures and might wear out the cooling system faster than its intended lifespan (usually 10 years, according to most manufacturers we’ve talked to).

Measure the rest of your kitchen. The layout of the rest of your kitchen matters, too. If you have a kitchen island, measure the distance from the wall to the edge of that counter to account for the door swing. In this situation, a counter-depth model, or one with half-width doors (like a French-door or side-by-side model) might make the most sense. If your fridge will sit close to a wall, think about whether the door will be able to swing open wide enough for you to pull out crisper drawers or deli trays. A single-door fridge (like a top-freezer or bottom-freezer model), with the hinge on the opposite side from the wall, might be your best bet.

Measure your doorways. You can take the doors off the fridge to get a few extra inches, but there are some fridges that you just cannot get inside of certain kitchens.

As long as a fridge fits your space, there’s no wrong size. You can put a small, affordable top-freezer fridge in a big cutout meant for a humongous, expensive French-door model. It might look a little odd, but it’ll work fine. Bigger fridges do tend to make people much happier than smaller ones, according to our reader survey and analysis of customer reviews. Many people buy the widest fridge that fits their space and budget (often 36 inches) and often one that’s very deep (34 inches or more), too.

Determine the depth you want.Although bigger fridges tend to make people happier than smaller ones, customer reviews indicate that the benefits peter out around 20 cubic feet, which is roughly the size of a fridge that’s 36 inches wide but slightly shallower than usual—also known as counter depth. So, even if a deeper, standard-depth fridge fits your space, we think a counter-depth refrigerator is worth considering. According to our analysis of customer reviews, people who own counter-depth fridges (most models, anyway) usually find that the fridges have plenty of capacity, and they tend to be equally happy with their fridges overall. Counter-depth fridges are also arguably easier to organize and look better in most kitchens, plus they tend to use a bit less energy.

After size, you get to decide what else is important to you, in whichever order you choose. Here are the rest of the criteria that most people seem to focus on when they’re thinking about their fridges (in declining order of popularity, roughly), with some advice on how to navigate the choices:

Decide between freestanding or built-in.The only true difference between these types of fridges is that freestanding models have finished sides, while built-in fridges do not because they’re designed to sit flush with and attach to (or even blend in with) cabinetry. Built-ins also cost at least $4,000, can be much wider than freestanding fridges, and are rarely available in top-freezer configurations (but much more commonly available in all-fridge or all-freezer columns). This AJ Madison primer has some additional details on style and sizing options for built-ins. (AJ Madison is a major appliance retailer that carries most brands of refrigerators, both freestanding and built-in.)

Freestanding full-size fridges can be as cheap as $650 or cost thousands of dollars like some built-ins. Since freestanding fridges are much, much more affordable, that’s the type that the overwhelming majority of people buy, so that’s what we focus on in this guide. But some of this guide applies to built-in fridges, too.

Consider reliability. More than half of the respondents in our reader survey said that reliability was one of the top three most important things they wanted in a new fridge. Unfortunately, nobody has a crystal ball that can predict which brand or model—or especially individual refrigerator units on sale today—will last the longest and have the fewest problems. However, after digging through Wirecutter survey responses and retail customer reviews and examining other publicly available data, we have some leads about the brands, fridge types, and even specific models that may be most prone to problems.

Think through what you want for capacity, shelving, and organization. These closely related qualities are highly important to most fridge owners. More than half of the readers who filled out our survey cited one of these three things as a top priority in their fridge, and size or layout was mentioned in at least 25% of the customer reviews we analyzed for any individual fridge. For higher-end models with specialized organization features (such as a door-in-door system or a two-drawer French-door model), size and layout were usually cited in more than 50% of reviews, and the sentiment was largely positive.

French-door models earn much more praise and less criticism related to shelving, storage, and organization than side-by-side or top-freezer fridges. One review on Home Depot"s website (collected as part of a promotion, which is common) encapsulates a lot of the praise: “I save on groceries because I can actually see everything,” writes JManigault201 about a French-door model, adding, “I don"t have to bend so low to get items out of my fridge. The [drawers] on the freezer make it easy to see my food without having to reach so far back.” The exception here is counter-depth French-door fridges with door dispensers: Owners are more likely to cite these models as being cramped or hard to organize, we found.

In general, we learned that most people are comfortable with the size of their fridge. Complaints about small capacity are just as common among huge 26-cubic-foot models as they are among 16-cubic-foot models, for example. It really has more to do with the shelving and layout. If you want an enormous fridge, by all means, get one. But you might not need quite as much space as you think. (Just to put the idea in your head: We think that if you’re looking for a 36-inch-wide fridge, you’ll probably be happy with a counter-depth fridge.)

Think twice about an ice maker and door dispenser. Most people seem to think that a built-in ice maker is worth having. But automatic ice makers, especially the kind that dispenses ice through the refrigerator door, are both wonderfully convenient and one of the most finicky, problem-prone parts of a fridge. In our reader survey, 24% of respondents said that their ice maker had jammed or completely broken, by far the most common hardware-based failure. That’s particularly notable considering that 17% of respondents didn’t even have an automatic ice maker or said that they didn’t think about this feature.

Some upscale fridges even have specialty ice features, like LG’s Craft Ice clear spheres (38% of the owners of one model whose reviews we analyzed cited Craft Ice as one of their favorite features).

We looked for patterns in the types of fridges that are most prone to ice-maker problems, but we couldn’t find any. Ice-maker reliability, as far as we can tell, depends on the specific model of refrigerator, not its brand, door type, or price.

For example: One Samsung French-door fridge, the RF28R7201SR, has a terrible ice maker, with 40% of owners complaining that it jams regularly, according to our AI-assisted analysis of customer reviews. (It was by far the worst service record we came across.) But the similar Samsung RF27T5201SR has far fewer complaints, with 10% of owners complaining about ice jams (still a bad rate). And then the nearly identical-looking Samsung RF28R7551S had essentially no complaints about its ice maker jamming at the time we did the analysis. Similar trends play out among other brands (though none even come close to the failure rate on that first Samsung model).

Consider the finish. Stainless steel is still the trendy-yet-attainable choice, as it has been for a few decades, and is widely regarded as an option that looks good in most kitchens. (Though a common complaint is that it’s a pain to keep fingerprint-free, even for models with supposedly fingerprint-resistant finishes.)

Different brands have slightly different looks to their stainless—some are more reflective, some have a more pronounced brushed-metal look, some are more fingerprint resistant. If this matters to you, check out some fridges in person.

There are plenty of other finishes to pick from, though they’re available on fewer models. Other neutral, brushed-metal finishes such as black stainless or slate are common. Glossy black and white are still widely available, particularly on cheaper fridges. Whirlpool and GE sell a bisque finish, though we aren’t sure whether this cream color is a throwback to or a holdover from the ’80s. Bolder, brighter colors (or even prints) are available, too, though they tend to be reserved for upscale models and only from certain brands.

Choose a model that maximizes efficiency and sustainability.Refrigerators are much more energy efficient than they were 15 and especially 30 years ago due to stricter efficiency regulations from the Department of Energy, as well as stronger incentives from the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star program. And as of summer 2021, all of the major brands now claim to use a climate-friendly refrigerant in at least some of their lineups—and a couple have transitioned all of their new fridges in that regard. So without even trying hard, you’ll probably end up with an environmentally sound refrigerator.

Cooling performance and food preservation:Some fridges are probably better at keeping foods fresher and more appetizing for longer, but we haven’t yet looked into the science of how that works or which features to look for. Consumer Reports tests and rates refrigerators for temperature consistency, defined as how quickly (and accurately) each fridge reaches the temperature on its thermostat and how well it holds that temperature as the ambient temperature around the fridge changes. This capability probably has something to do with maintaining freshness, so you could check Consumer Reports’s reviews if you think this will matter.

What we can tell you is that after analyzing more than 28,000 customer reviews across 34 different fridges, it is very uncommon to find criticism of fridges for doing a poor job keeping foods fresh, outside of cases where the cooling system was obviously defective or broken.

When people do complain, it’s usually because the temperature throughout the fridge compartment is uneven: Portions of the door are too warm for milk, for example, or the very top or bottom of the cavity gets so cold that lettuce freezes and turns into disgusting mush. This happens with only some fridges, even if they’re working properly. The problem seems more common among lower-cost top-freezer models, and higher-end models with a door-in-door feature might struggle to hold dairy-safe temperatures in their door shelves. Consumer Reports also tests for this type of temperature uniformity, if you’d like to see performance results for specific models.

Noise:When refrigerators are functioning properly, they do not make enough noise to irritate the vast majority of people. But any refrigerator can become kind of noisy when it’s malfunctioning, and certain models seem more prone to developing these nuisance noises than others. Low-cost top-freezer models tend to run a little louder in the first place and seem to be a bit more prone to nuisance noises, too. But certain larger, pricier models seem more likely to whine or thunk or whirr, and there’s no obvious reason that we’ve been able to discern. We’ve tried to avoid linking to those models in this guide.

If the display or screen is frozen, not responding, not scrolling, or the status is not updating, check the following, or perform the following troubleshooting.

The Control Lock feature disables the control panel/display to avoid unintended use and for easier cleaning. If the controls are locked, a message should display with instructions on how to unlock. If not, please see your Owner"s Manuald for instructions.

We have a GE Profile refrigerator model #PSHS6TGXCSS. It was unplugged and moved to another plug temporarily due to some work we had happening in the house. When we opened the fridge we noticed the compressor isn’t running, it’s not cooling, the front display panel is not working, but the lights are on inside. We tried to reset it by unplugging and moving it back to its original outlet, but nothing changes- it is still not working. Is there anything we can do to get it working again- another way to reset, diagnose, any fuses, etc? We can’t imagine unplugging it would have caused it to completely stop working!

SmartHQ lets you manage and control a variety of smart Appliances from GE Appliances, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Fisher & Paykel, and Haier to give you total control of your headquarters, your home.

• NOTIFICATIONS – Receive helpful alerts from your smart appliance that tell you when your oven is finished pre-heating or if you left the refrigerator door open and many others

Requires a compatible SmartHQ enabled Refrigerator, Dishwasher, Wall Oven/Range, Washer, Dryer, Window Air Conditioner, Portable Air Conditioners, Duct-free System, Whole Home Water Filter System, Water Softener, and Water Heater, or with a U+ Connect module. U+ Connect modules can be purchased online: https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/spec/PBX23W00Y0?SpecType=SpecType

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

Have you ever opened your fridge and wondered why the back wall is covered in a sheen of moisture? That"s condensation, which is completely normal and generally harmless. What"s not normal in most modern refrigerators is ice buildup outside of the freezer unit. If you have a huge chunk of ice forming on the wall of your fridge, you’re going to want to take immediate steps to remove it.

There"s always going to be a chance that moisture will collect on the inner walls of your fridge, especially toward the back. That"s because cold air holds less moisture than warm air. The colder the air is, the more moisture is pulled out of it. That moisture then settles on the surfaces of your fridge. The air inside your fridge tends to be coldest toward the back, which is why moisture often forms there first.

If you see ice starting to form on the inside of the fridge, though, that"s an indicator that something might be wrong. The normal moisture is starting to freeze, which can lead to temperature control problems inside the unit. It can also lead to the failure of the appliance.

Ice can form for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, these are one-off or temporary causes, like climate issues or the way you’ve filled the fridge. Ice may build up if you"ve been opening and closing the door more than normal. If you see ice building up, you may want to defrost the fridge, then keep an eye on it to see if the issue arises again. The recurrence of ice would indicate a more serious problem.

Not all appliances are the same, so remember to consult your manufacturer"s instructions for more specific steps on what to do if your unit has ice buildup. Here are the basic steps for manually defrosting your fridge:

1. Take everything out of the fridge and freezer, then transfer it to another unit. If you don"t have another unit, consider "eating down" what"s in the fridge without replacing it so you can defrost the unit without wasting as much.

Pro Tip: If you"re already going through all this work to clear out your fridge, make use of this time to deep clean the refrigerator. That way, when you get it back up and running, you have a fresh and sparkling interior, too.

You won"t want to have to go through the manual defrosting process too often. Here are some things you can do whether you have a full-size unit or a minifridge with ice buildup:

Keep the doors closed as much as possible. You let warm, moist air into the fridge every time you open the door. This can increase condensation and may make your fridge work harder.

Check to ensure the fridge thermostat is set correctly. The FDA recommends an internal temperature of 40 degrees or lower, but you don"t want to go so low that foods and drinks freeze inside the fridge.

Adjust internal fridge temperatures according to ambient temperatures outside. If the temperature of the room is warm, you may need to turn down the thermostat in the fridge to keep it cool enough for food safety. But if it"s very cold in the room outside, you might need to turn the internal fridge temperature up a bit to keep ice from forming inside. Smart fridges can often handle this adjustment for you.

Water and even ice inside your fridge don"t necessarily indicate a serious problem; you may just need to perform some routine DIY maintenance. Make sure everyone in your household is also following good fridge practices as outlined above.

However, there are times that ice buildup can indicate a bigger issue. Perhaps the appliance itself is in need of professional repair. In other cases, you may need an electrician to ensure power is flowing appropriately in your kitchen. If ice buildup is a recurring issue, you should call a repair technician.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.