wiki tft display in stock

A thin-film-transistor liquid-crystal display (TFT LCD) is a variant of a liquid-crystal display that uses thin-film-transistor technologyactive matrix LCD, in contrast to passive matrix LCDs or simple, direct-driven (i.e. with segments directly connected to electronics outside the LCD) LCDs with a few segments.

In February 1957, John Wallmark of RCA filed a patent for a thin film MOSFET. Paul K. Weimer, also of RCA implemented Wallmark"s ideas and developed the thin-film transistor (TFT) in 1962, a type of MOSFET distinct from the standard bulk MOSFET. It was made with thin films of cadmium selenide and cadmium sulfide. The idea of a TFT-based liquid-crystal display (LCD) was conceived by Bernard Lechner of RCA Laboratories in 1968. In 1971, Lechner, F. J. Marlowe, E. O. Nester and J. Tults demonstrated a 2-by-18 matrix display driven by a hybrid circuit using the dynamic scattering mode of LCDs.T. Peter Brody, J. A. Asars and G. D. Dixon at Westinghouse Research Laboratories developed a CdSe (cadmium selenide) TFT, which they used to demonstrate the first CdSe thin-film-transistor liquid-crystal display (TFT LCD).active-matrix liquid-crystal display (AM LCD) using CdSe TFTs in 1974, and then Brody coined the term "active matrix" in 1975.high-resolution and high-quality electronic visual display devices use TFT-based active matrix displays.

The liquid crystal displays used in calculators and other devices with similarly simple displays have direct-driven image elements, and therefore a voltage can be easily applied across just one segment of these types of displays without interfering with the other segments. This would be impractical for a large display, because it would have a large number of (color) picture elements (pixels), and thus it would require millions of connections, both top and bottom for each one of the three colors (red, green and blue) of every pixel. To avoid this issue, the pixels are addressed in rows and columns, reducing the connection count from millions down to thousands. The column and row wires attach to transistor switches, one for each pixel. The one-way current passing characteristic of the transistor prevents the charge that is being applied to each pixel from being drained between refreshes to a display"s image. Each pixel is a small capacitor with a layer of insulating liquid crystal sandwiched between transparent conductive ITO layers.

The circuit layout process of a TFT-LCD is very similar to that of semiconductor products. However, rather than fabricating the transistors from silicon, that is formed into a crystalline silicon wafer, they are made from a thin film of amorphous silicon that is deposited on a glass panel. The silicon layer for TFT-LCDs is typically deposited using the PECVD process.

Polycrystalline silicon is sometimes used in displays requiring higher TFT performance. Examples include small high-resolution displays such as those found in projectors or viewfinders. Amorphous silicon-based TFTs are by far the most common, due to their lower production cost, whereas polycrystalline silicon TFTs are more costly and much more difficult to produce.

The twisted nematic display is one of the oldest and frequently cheapest kind of LCD display technologies available. TN displays benefit from fast pixel response times and less smearing than other LCD display technology, but suffer from poor color reproduction and limited viewing angles, especially in the vertical direction. Colors will shift, potentially to the point of completely inverting, when viewed at an angle that is not perpendicular to the display. Modern, high end consumer products have developed methods to overcome the technology"s shortcomings, such as RTC (Response Time Compensation / Overdrive) technologies. Modern TN displays can look significantly better than older TN displays from decades earlier, but overall TN has inferior viewing angles and poor color in comparison to other technology.

Most TN panels can represent colors using only six bits per RGB channel, or 18 bit in total, and are unable to display the 16.7 million color shades (24-bit truecolor) that are available using 24-bit color. Instead, these panels display interpolated 24-bit color using a dithering method that combines adjacent pixels to simulate the desired shade. They can also use a form of temporal dithering called Frame Rate Control (FRC), which cycles between different shades with each new frame to simulate an intermediate shade. Such 18 bit panels with dithering are sometimes advertised as having "16.2 million colors". These color simulation methods are noticeable to many people and highly bothersome to some.gamut (often referred to as a percentage of the NTSC 1953 color gamut) are also due to backlighting technology. It is not uncommon for older displays to range from 10% to 26% of the NTSC color gamut, whereas other kind of displays, utilizing more complicated CCFL or LED phosphor formulations or RGB LED backlights, may extend past 100% of the NTSC color gamut, a difference quite perceivable by the human eye.

In 2004, Hydis Technologies Co., Ltd licensed its AFFS patent to Japan"s Hitachi Displays. Hitachi is using AFFS to manufacture high end panels in their product line. In 2006, Hydis also licensed its AFFS to Sanyo Epson Imaging Devices Corporation.

A technology developed by Samsung is Super PLS, which bears similarities to IPS panels, has wider viewing angles, better image quality, increased brightness, and lower production costs. PLS technology debuted in the PC display market with the release of the Samsung S27A850 and S24A850 monitors in September 2011.

TFT dual-transistor pixel or cell technology is a reflective-display technology for use in very-low-power-consumption applications such as electronic shelf labels (ESL), digital watches, or metering. DTP involves adding a secondary transistor gate in the single TFT cell to maintain the display of a pixel during a period of 1s without loss of image or without degrading the TFT transistors over time. By slowing the refresh rate of the standard frequency from 60 Hz to 1 Hz, DTP claims to increase the power efficiency by multiple orders of magnitude.

Due to the very high cost of building TFT factories, there are few major OEM panel vendors for large display panels. The glass panel suppliers are as follows:

External consumer display devices like a TFT LCD feature one or more analog VGA, DVI, HDMI, or DisplayPort interface, with many featuring a selection of these interfaces. Inside external display devices there is a controller board that will convert the video signal using color mapping and image scaling usually employing the discrete cosine transform (DCT) in order to convert any video source like CVBS, VGA, DVI, HDMI, etc. into digital RGB at the native resolution of the display panel. In a laptop the graphics chip will directly produce a signal suitable for connection to the built-in TFT display. A control mechanism for the backlight is usually included on the same controller board.

The low level interface of STN, DSTN, or TFT display panels use either single ended TTL 5 V signal for older displays or TTL 3.3 V for slightly newer displays that transmits the pixel clock, horizontal sync, vertical sync, digital red, digital green, digital blue in parallel. Some models (for example the AT070TN92) also feature input/display enable, horizontal scan direction and vertical scan direction signals.

New and large (>15") TFT displays often use LVDS signaling that transmits the same contents as the parallel interface (Hsync, Vsync, RGB) but will put control and RGB bits into a number of serial transmission lines synchronized to a clock whose rate is equal to the pixel rate. LVDS transmits seven bits per clock per data line, with six bits being data and one bit used to signal if the other six bits need to be inverted in order to maintain DC balance. Low-cost TFT displays often have three data lines and therefore only directly support 18 bits per pixel. Upscale displays have four or five data lines to support 24 bits per pixel (truecolor) or 30 bits per pixel respectively. Panel manufacturers are slowly replacing LVDS with Internal DisplayPort and Embedded DisplayPort, which allow sixfold reduction of the number of differential pairs.

The bare display panel will only accept a digital video signal at the resolution determined by the panel pixel matrix designed at manufacture. Some screen panels will ignore the LSB bits of the color information to present a consistent interface (8 bit -> 6 bit/color x3).

With analogue signals like VGA, the display controller also needs to perform a high speed analog to digital conversion. With digital input signals like DVI or HDMI some simple reordering of the bits is needed before feeding it to the rescaler if the input resolution doesn"t match the display panel resolution.

Kawamoto, H. (2012). "The Inventors of TFT Active-Matrix LCD Receive the 2011 IEEE Nishizawa Medal". Journal of Display Technology. 8 (1): 3–4. Bibcode:2012JDisT...8....3K. doi:10.1109/JDT.2011.2177740. ISSN 1551-319X.

Brody, T. Peter; Asars, J. A.; Dixon, G. D. (November 1973). "A 6 × 6 inch 20 lines-per-inch liquid-crystal display panel". 20 (11): 995–1001. Bibcode:1973ITED...20..995B. doi:10.1109/T-ED.1973.17780. ISSN 0018-9383.

K. H. Lee; H. Y. Kim; K. H. Park; S. J. Jang; I. C. Park & J. Y. Lee (June 2006). "A Novel Outdoor Readability of Portable TFT-LCD with AFFS Technology". SID Symposium Digest of Technical Papers. AIP. 37 (1): 1079–82. doi:10.1889/1.2433159. S2CID 129569963.

Kim, Sae-Bom; Kim, Woong-Ki; Chounlamany, Vanseng; Seo, Jaehwan; Yoo, Jisu; Jo, Hun-Je; Jung, Jinho (15 August 2012). "Identification of multi-level toxicity of liquid crystal display wastewater toward Daphnia magna and Moina macrocopa". Journal of Hazardous Materials. Seoul, Korea; Laos, Lao. 227–228: 327–333. doi:10.1016/j.jhazmat.2012.05.059. PMID 22677053.

Flat-panel displays are thin panels of glass or plastic used for electronically displaying text, images, or video. Liquid crystal displays (LCD), OLED (organic light emitting diode) and microLED displays are not quite the same; since LCD uses a liquid crystal that reacts to an electric current blocking light or allowing it to pass through the panel, whereas OLED/microLED displays consist of electroluminescent organic/inorganic materials that generate light when a current is passed through the material. LCD, OLED and microLED displays are driven using LTPS, IGZO, LTPO, and A-Si TFT transistor technologies as their backplane using ITO to supply current to the transistors and in turn to the liquid crystal or electroluminescent material. Segment and passive OLED and LCD displays do not use a backplane but use indium tin oxide (ITO), a transparent conductive material, to pass current to the electroluminescent material or liquid crystal. In LCDs, there is an even layer of liquid crystal throughout the panel whereas an OLED display has the electroluminescent material only where it is meant to light up. OLEDs, LCDs and microLEDs can be made flexible and transparent, but LCDs require a backlight because they cannot emit light on their own like OLEDs and microLEDs.

Liquid-crystal display (or LCD) is a thin, flat panel used for electronically displaying information such as text, images, and moving pictures. They are usually made of glass but they can also be made out of plastic. Some manufacturers make transparent LCD panels and special sequential color segment LCDs that have higher than usual refresh rates and an RGB backlight. The backlight is synchronized with the display so that the colors will show up as needed. The list of LCD manufacturers:

Organic light emitting diode (or OLED displays) is a thin, flat panel made of glass or plastic used for electronically displaying information such as text, images, and moving pictures. OLED panels can also take the shape of a light panel, where red, green and blue light emitting materials are stacked to create a white light panel. OLED displays can also be made transparent and/or flexible and these transparent panels are available on the market and are widely used in smartphones with under-display optical fingerprint sensors. LCD and OLED displays are available in different shapes, the most prominent of which is a circular display, which is used in smartwatches. The list of OLED display manufacturers:

MicroLED displays is an emerging flat-panel display technology consisting of arrays of microscopic LEDs forming the individual pixel elements. Like OLED, microLED offers infinite contrast ratio, but unlike OLED, microLED is immune to screen burn-in, and consumes less power while having higher light output, as it uses LEDs instead of organic electroluminescent materials, The list of MicroLED display manufacturers:

Sony produces and sells commercial MicroLED displays called CLEDIS (Crystal-LED Integrated Displays, also called Canvas-LED) in small quantities.video walls.

"Samsung Display has halted local Gen-8 LCD lines: sources". THE ELEC, Korea Electronics Industry Media. August 16, 2019. Archived from the original on April 3, 2020. Retrieved December 18, 2019.

"Business Place Information – Global Operation | SAMSUNG DISPLAY". www.samsungdisplay.com. Archived from the original on 2018-03-26. Retrieved 2018-04-01.

"Samsung Display Considering Halting Some LCD Production Lines". 비즈니스코리아 - BusinessKorea. August 16, 2019. Archived from the original on April 5, 2020. Retrieved December 19, 2019.

Herald, The Korea (July 6, 2016). "Samsung Display accelerates transition from LCD to OLED". www.koreaherald.com. Archived from the original on April 1, 2018. Retrieved April 1, 2018.

Byeonghwa, Yeon. "Business Place Information – Global Operation – SAMSUNG DISPLAY". Samsungdisplay.com. Archived from the original on 2018-03-26. Retrieved 2018-04-01.

www.etnews.com (30 June 2017). "Samsung Display to Construct World"s Biggest OLED Plant". Archived from the original on 2019-06-09. Retrieved 2019-06-09.

"China"s BOE to have world"s largest TFT-LCD+AMOLED capacity in 2019". ihsmarkit.com. 2017-03-22. Archived from the original on 2019-08-16. Retrieved 2019-08-17.

Our new line of 10.1” TFT displays with IPS technology are now available! These 10.1” IPS displays offer three interface options to choose from including RGB, LVDS, and HDMI interface, each with two touchscreen options as capacitive or without a touchscreen.

The new line of 3.5” TFT displays with IPS technology is now available! Three touchscreen options are available: capacitive, resistive, or without a touchscreen.

Trait Tracker: Track the origin and class bonuses that your champions qualify for. Displays up to 10 origin and class. On other player arena, it shows that player trait bonuses instead.

Each game of TFT in Set 2 will have an element assigned, spawing elemental hexes of that element during the planning phase. The hexes will spawn in the same places for all players on every round; the first appears at Stage 1-1, and the second one appears at Stage 3–1.

Small and exquisite, this 0.96” TFT screen employs an edge-to-edge design and offers glorious 160×80HD 16-bit color display, which can be suitable for wearable projects, mobile devices and smart home products.

Compatible with 3.3V to 5V, the display consumes current less than 15mA in full-screen. It works well with controllers like Arduino UNO, Leonardo, ESP32, ESP8266, FireBeetle M0, etc

One of the things that sets us apart from other touchscreen display manufacturers is the level of customization we offer. Our product portfolio includes a wide range of TFT & Monochrome LCDs, OLED, touch sensor and glass technologies, which we can provide stand-alone or integrated into complete assemblies.

Our custom display, touch and cover lens solutions are used in a variety of end-user applications. For example, our touchscreens are used in many vehicle infotainment systems and dashboard controls. We also provide custom touch displays for popular marine applications such as watercraft navigation screens and fish finders. For consumer electronics, we manufacture custom touchscreen display solutions and smartphone screen protectors. Whether your application will be used in the great outdoors, a construction site, or a hospital operating room, we can build a custom, all-in-one solution for your needs.

Our strength as a custom display company comes from the extensive technical expertise of our engineering team. The approach our engineers take is always based on experience and data-driven decisions that help you find the right solution for your application. In addition, our extensive manufacturing capabilities enable us to deliver quick design cycles, cost-effective solutions, and high-quality products that will meet your specifications even in the harshest conditions. To learn more about what makes us the display manufacturer for your needs, get in touch with us today.

There are two cable options for connecting the PanelDue, both options are included with the PanelDue V3 kit. Option 1 is the included 4-wire cable with Molex KK connector ends. Option 2 is the included 10-wire ribbon cable. For some boards, both cables need to be plugged in to enable both TFT panel and SD card socket.

The length of the 4-way cable is not critical, however the resistance per conductor should not exceed 0.1 ohm. The SD card socket on the TFT panel will not be functional. The cables supplied by Escher3D and Duet3D are about 800mm long. There have been reports of cables up to 1500mm long being successfully used. Take care to route the cable away from motor and endstop cables. Twisting the cables may help prevent cross talk interference.

Older versions of the Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet need both the 4-wire and ribbon cable to be plugged in to use the TFT Panel and the SD card socket, when connecting PanelDue v2.0 or v3.0.

PanelDue will display the bed heater H0 first (even if it is disabled), then iterate the defined tools. It then iterates the defined heaters below this. It expects a 1:1 relationship between tools and heaters. This means:if you have a machine that uses one heater for more than one tool (eg a 2-into-1, filament-swapping hot end), it will display more tools than heaters. Tools may not line up with their respective heaters.

Due to constraints on display resolution, PanelDue can only display 7 heaters in total on 5" and 7" panels, and 5 on 4.3" panels. If there are more heaters and/or tools than this, some columns will overlap.

There are two types of controller chip commonly used in these controllers: ST7920 and ST7567. Some Duets support one or both of these types - see below for details. Both types use a menu system stored on the SD card, see 12864 display menu system.

These displays are typically clones of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller and look like this. The better ones include a contrast adjustment potentiometer. Unfortunately some manufacturers of other displays using the same controller chip reverse the pinouts on the two ribbon cable connectors. The ST7920 controller chip is invariably powered from 5V, which means that the display need 5V input signal levels.

An example of this is the Fysetc Mini 12864 Panel. The controller chip is run from 3.3V, so these displays normally include level shifters which tolerate a wide range of input voltages.

The contrast setting for these displays is done in software. the M918 command supports a C parameter for this purpose. It is also necessary to set a resistor ratio parameter in software, which can be done using the M918 R parameter.

Duet 3 Mini provides two 2x5 ribbon cable headers for connecting a Fysetc 12864 Mini Panel version 1.2 or 2.1 (not 2.0) or compatible ST7567-based controller. When using a version 2.1 controller, the colours of the three Neopixel LEDs built into the display can be set using the M150 command with LED type parameter X2.

We do not recommend connecting a 12864 display with ST7920 controller to the Duet 3 Mini because the 3.3V signals provided by the Duet 3 Mini do not meet the specifications of the ST7920 controller chip when it is powered from 5V. If you do wish to try it, you will most likely have to reduce the clock frequency (M918 F parameter) to get it working at all, and it may not work reliably. Also, note that when configured for 12864 display with ST7920 controller, RRF provides the CS signal on the pin normally uses for A0 because that more closely matched the pinout of typical 12864/ST7920 displays.

The Duet 2 Maestro provides two 2x5 ribbon cable headers for a 12864 display using ST7920 controller. The connector pinout is compatible with the original RepRapDiscount design. There is also more information in this thread: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7609/conf....

RepRapFirmware 3.2 and later also support displays using the ST7567 controller. For these displays, use the standard cable EXCEPT the following two wires need to be connected to the EXPANSION header pins:

RepRapFirmware 3.2 and later support a 12864 display using ST7567 controller. RepRapFirmware 3.3 added support for a short string of Neopixels on Duet WiFi and Ethernet, so boards that use a Neopixel for the backlight should be able to be controlled. See this thread on the forum for more details.

We do not recommend connecting a 12864 display with ST7920 controller because the 3.3V signals provided by the Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet do not meet the specifications of the ST7920 controller chip when it is powered from 5V. If you do wish to try it, you will most likely have to reduce the clock frequency (M918 F parameter) to get it working at all, and it may not work reliably.

The most recent version of the standard bigtreetech TFT firmware has built in support for RepRapFirmware. The pre-built images have this enabled by default.

Use the pins +5V, GND, IO_0_OUT and IO_0_IN on the IO_0 header (Duet 3), or +5V, GND, TX and RX on the PanelDue header (Duet 2). These should be connected to +5V, GND, TX and RX on the TFT, making sure that TX and RX are swapped.

Except for the Game Boy Light, all Game Boy consoles before the Game Boy Advance SP (and even technically including the earlier frontlit model) use passive reflective displays. This means that behind the screen is a reflector that is used to reflect natural light off the back of the screen through the liquid crystal pixel elements and back into your eyes for the purpose of illuminating the images on the screen. Starting with the Game Boy Advance SP, Nintendo started including internal lighting in the screens. The first SP model, the AGS-001, is a frontlit reflective display because there is a light panel in front of the screen that provides light to the reflective display. The second model of Game Boy Advance SP, the AGS-101, uses a backlit transmissive display because it no longer reflects natural lighting but allows light to pass through it from the light panel behind the LCD. Except for the original model DS (NTR, not USG), all Nintendo consoles made after the AGS-001 use backlit transmissive displays. All the displays I’ve mentioned so far are extremely common throughout the vast majority of electronics out there. There are other display types like CRT (for which is the only display that has scanlines), plasma, DLP, OLED, micro LED, etc, but those are not too relevant for this discussion. I may circle back to CRT later but for now we’ll continue on about Game Boys.

Let’s circle back to the two consoles I mentioned and excluded, the original DS model and Game Boy Light. Both of these consoles use the same type of display, a transflective backlit LCD (yes, really, the DS is backlit, not frontlit). The word “transflective” is a portmanteau of “transmissive” and “reflective” and is functionally similar a “one-way” mirror. These screens are built as a reflective display but instead of a reflector, they have a layer applied that will reflect light from the front or allow transmission of light from the back, depending on which source is brighter. These screens also have a backlight so when the backlight is off, the screen works much like a passive reflective display but when the backlight is on, the screen works much like a backlit transmissive display. Hence the word transflective. Good reflectors can be expensive and at best diminish color quality and black levels so most people usually opt for sunlight readibility compensation with an absurdly bright backlight instead.

Next, I want to talk about the specific technologies used to make these displays. All of the LCDs used in Game Boy consoles are made with thin-film transistor (TFT) technology. TFT displays can be further broken down into twisted-nematic (TN) or in-plane switching (IPS) displays (but not limited to). TN type displays were used primarily due to their cost (cheap) and power efficiency. This made them ideal for use within an inexpensive portable device. IPS type screens were around at the time but the technology wasn’t quite mature at the time (arguably, neither was TN but TN was a lot more advanced at the time) and not quite suitable for Game Boys. Benefits of an IPS type display over a TN display usually include more accurate color reproduction and much wider viewing angles. IPS type screens are often used in mod kits.

Last, if you see any mention of “Q5”, “9380”, or “690” LCDs or backlight kits, that is a reference to the screen itself that is packed with the kit. The kits that use these screens are designed to repurpose salvaged LCDs ($) instead of having something new manufactured from scratch ($$$). Most kits are using new old stock LCDs rather than LCDs directly pulled from phones but for replacement purposes, cheap display assemblies may be sourced and the LCD extracted manually. If the screen isn’t mentioned, it is unknown where the LCD is salvaged from, if it’s salvaged at all. “690” LCDs (DMG, MGB, CGB) are from the Palm Centro 690 and are available with a digitizer attached. The digitizer is held on to the edges of the LCD (NOT laminated) with double sided tape and must be removed to use in a GB. “9380” LCDs (CGB, AGB, AGS) are from the BlackBerry Curve 9380 and are available as bare LCDs from most GB kit resellers or as display assemblies from phone parts resellers. The LCD must be extracted from a phone assembly if applicable to use in a GB. “Q5” LCDs (DMG, MGB, CGB) are from the BlackBerry Q5 and are available as bare LCDs from most GB kit resellers or as display assemblies from phone parts resellers. The LCD must be extracted from a phone assembly if applicable to use in a GB. Looks like some of these LCDs can be grabbed from cloud game store on aliexpress.

A new trend with some backlight kits is to have the glass lens laminated to the LCD, much like how modern smartphones and tablets are constructed. Traditionally, Game Boys are made with an air gap between the plastic lens on the outside and the surface of the LCD on the inside. This results in a highly durable and modular build. Scratch the lens? Just pop it off and replace it. Want a custom lens? Just order one and replace it. However, some of the newer kits are bonding the LCD to the lens and shipping them as one unit (for example, the Laminated Q5 Funnyplaying Game Boy Color kit). This cuts down on the space between the lens and LCD and results in a much better looking final install, greatly improved picture quality, and completely eliminates the possibilty of dust or fingerprints under the lens. This is not without downsides, however. The primary issue is that lens customization is much more expensive/difficult, especially if you want to retain the lamination since the cost of replacing a lens OR LCD now includes BOTH a custom lens and LCD. Another issue particular to Game Boys is that you either have to use a custom shell designed for the laminated display OR you have to significantly modify your existing shell to fit the laminated display assembly. Please see this article for more information on LCD lamination and some good visuals.

I have several different recommendations for “best” kit as each kit seems to have different strengths or weaknesses. Overall cheapest would be an inexpensive LED panel and hex inverter for modifying the OEM LCD (item #10). This is certainly a good option if you like the OEM style screen but is not an option if your LCD is missing or damaged (cracked, screen rot, horizontal lines, etc). You can go a long way in improving the contrast but the original screens are still pretty low quality and have severe ghosting issues or other display artifacts. Alternatively, a total replacement kit is also an option. My pick for ease of install, performance, and function is probably going to be the funnyplaying ‘Retro Pixel’ kit (#11). This kit gives doesn’t give you the most features but what it does give you it does extremely well. Trimming is required unless you use an IPS Ready replacement shell (which funnyplaying also makes). For better color palette customization or even TV Out functionality, One Chip’s OSD and TV Out kits are pretty good choices (#12 and #13 respectively).

#11. Funnyplaying Q5 IPS “Retro Pixel” Backlight (console and kit) – this is basically their MGB IPS kit but with an additional replacement front board for the DMG. I’m extremely pleased with it so far. Quick tap the contrast wheel and then up or down to cycle through the palette presets and long tap to toggle the pixel grid emulation modes. The contrast wheel controls the brightness up or down when not in palette select mode (quick tap to toggle modes). The screen looks absolutely amazing and the trim required to install it is actually pretty easy. I didn’t notice any egregious screen issues like dropped frames or tearing that some other kits seem to exhibit. I HIGHLY recommend using a bracket or a spacer to line it up though. The included adhesive is permanent so if you mess it up (like I did on the MGB install), you’re stuck with it unless you want to purchase a new LCD (less than $7 from funnyplaying). You can use a stock sized lens but the actual display image is slightly larger than stock and might be best with the custom lens included in the kit. Part of the install is making the LCD window bigger to work with the new lens but funnyplaying also makes IPS Ready shells that do not require a trim. Biggest downside is the battery life with an estimated 25~50% runtime after the install, depending on your brightness level. An alternative to this kit might be the OC Q5 OSD Kit (item #12) but the feature set is a little different. (see my install here)

#3. HiVision 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – I don’t have this kit in a DMG but I do have one in a MGB. There are several iterations of this kit and some do drop frames. Historically, this was also the only AIO kit that actually came with the proper wiring for DMG. This kit significantly improves on the ghosting and contrast issues of the previous methods but the viewing angles are not that great and the LCD size itself is a big down-grade. On the plus size, the install does not require any irreversible modification. You do need to desolder the original LCD from the front board and solder the new one in place. I can’t vouch for the ease of install but it doesn’t look too bad as long as you don’t mind soldering directly to a ribbon cable. Due to the smaller LCD, the bezels are huge. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. The CGS 2.6” IPS kit (#14) replaced this one. (I technically don’t have one of these)

#4. One Chip 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – I don’t have this kit in a DMG but I do have one in a MGB. There are several iterations of this kit and some do drop frames. Historically, this kit did not come with the wiring you needed to easily install this. You can use the ribbon cable adapter from the above kit to install this kit or you can wire it manually with the MGB ribbon cable. This kit significantly improves on the ghosting and contrast issues of the previous methods but the viewing angles are not that great and the LCD size itself is a big down-grade. On the plus size, the install does not require any irreversible modification. You do need to desolder the original LCD from the front board and solder the new one in place. I can’t vouch for the ease of install but it doesn’t look too bad as long as you don’t mind soldering directly to a ribbon cable. Due to the smaller LCD, the bezels are huge. Presumably, the custom color palettes that the new kit supports will work on this console too. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. The “RIPS” series of kits replaced this kit (see #12 and #13) (I technically don’t have one of these)

#7. Taobao IPS Backlight (v2 - “Moon Screen”) (console and kit) – This kit is basically the Rainbow Screen kit but more refined. Installation is significantly easier than the previous iteration and aside from having to transfer your speaker over, the kit is actually 100% drop in with no modding required. You do not need to cut up your shell and the only soldering is for the speaker. Unlike the Funnyplaying kit or the One Chip kits which use 4x and 2x scaling respectively, this kit uses 3x scaling so the image is not going to be as sharp as the funnyplaying kit but it is sharp enough to have the pixel grid enabled like the funnyplaying kit. Personally, I don’t like that option but at least it is exactly that; an option. Everything on this kit is configurable, even each color of every pixel from the line grid to the DMG “color” palettes and you can save your configurations to one of eight presets. A side effect of the kit being completely drop in with no modding required is that the LCD itself is a bit smaller and is visible from the outside with a normal sized lens and the display image itself is a bit smaller. This kit has the image displayed on the LCD measuring in at 43mm wide by 38.75mm tall whereas the OC V3 IPS kit measures in at 44.5mm wide by 40.35 tall. The Funnyplaying kit will be bigger than both of these kits and I’ll add the measurements as soon as I get my hands on one. All in all, this is a fantastic kit. With how difficult these are to acquire and how expensive they are, there are much better kits for the money. If you can get one and if you don’t mind paying a bit in the process, it’s a great kit. (see my install here)

Like the DMG section, I have three different recommendations for “best” kit as each kit seems to have different strengths or weaknesses. Overall cheapest would be an inexpensive LED panel for modifying the OEM LCD (item #1). This is certainly a good option if you like the OEM style screen but is not an option if your LCD is missing or damaged (cracked, screen rot, vertical lines etc). You can go a long way in improving the contrast but the original screens are still pretty low quality and have severe ghosting issues or other display artifacts. Alternatively, a total replacement kit is also an option. My pick for ease of install, performance, and function is definitely the ‘One Chip’ version of the AIO TFT kit (item #3). This kit is pretty light on features but requires absolutely zero permanent modification to your MGB and is one of the cheapest in the list (of total replacement kits). It requires no shell modding and no permanent adhesive. A step up from this kit is the AIO XL kit (item #8) if you don’t mind a little bit of modification. Feature set is mostly the same but you at least get a stock sized LCD. If you’re fine with cutting up your shell, the ‘One Chip’ Q5 OSD IPS kit (item #6) is also a fantastic option. While the install is a bit more involved, the actual display image itself is bigger (slightly larger than OEM) and looks proportionally better on the MGB with the thin bezels and huge LCD. This kit has the most features and is competetively priced with the rest. Performance differences are mostly negligible but battery life is not great. With the new IPS ready aftermarket shells, these larger Q5 IPS kits may soon be a “drop in” experience as far as cutting goes. Expect less than four hours on average with one of these (even less with a flash cart too).

(like I did), you’re stuck with it unless you want to purchase a new LCD (less than $7 from funnyplaying). You can use a stock sized lens (and that’s what it comes with) but the actual display image is slightly larger than stock and might be best with a custom lens that has a slightly larger opening. You’d have to modify the LCD window in the shell for this as well though. Biggest downside is the battery life but that’s been an issue with the Pocket even before this kit. This kit does not help though. I’ve had issues booting an EZ Flash JR, especially with slightly used NiMh rechargeables. Constant voltage batteries like juggees are a good idea for a mod like this. Alternatively, this kit should also work the same way in a Game Boy Light and that will help tremendously with the battery life. Funnyplaying makes a shell for the Pocket designed to be used with this kit which will make the install no longer require any shell cutting. (see my install here)

There appears to be an updated version to this kit again (v1.2? v2? Unknown) that was teased with their new IPS ready custom MGB shells. Is this the same kit as the previous iteration? Yes and no. It’s the same LCD as their previous mod and likely the exact same hardware adapter too. It still uses integer scaling so the game viewable area is identical. The difference, it appears, is that they look to be applying the “white” color palette to the entire LCD display area to emulate the look of an unmasked backlit OEM screen. This was a software update to the previous kit only and all the same pros and cons still otherwise apply. This should be considered the same kit. (This was formerly line item #5 but I removed it without re-ordering the list).

#6. One Chip IPS Backlight Kit Q5 Version (kit) – This kit is similar in install compared to the funnyplaying kit above and even uses the same LCD. The tradeoff is the hit to battery life (compared to AIO kits) and the more complicated install. The other full size kit from cloud gaming (item #8) offers similar size screen image with a smaller overall LCD. This means an easier install as less trimming is required but overall the picture quality is not as good. My testing did not show any quirks or other performance issues such as screen tearing or unexpected frame dropping and showed no pixel overdrive artifacts. The install is actually somewhat forgiving as no positioning bracket is required. As long as you get the LCD in the shell straight and not askew, you can adjust where the image displays on screen to ensure that your lens cutout is lined up perfectly. Soldering is optional but for full functionality (custom palettes, image position, more brightness levels, battery display), highly recommended. The only quirk that I noticed, if you can even call it that, is that the button combo to pull up the OSD and navigating the menu itself still sends inputs to the game. Depending on your game, this could be highly annoying. Also, there are some games, such as Link’s Awakening (DX), that will trigger the OSD just from normal use. A workaround would be to disconnect the button controls (or use dip switches) so the OSD is disabled when not in use or to just wire the inputs to different buttons. The color palettes are a an excellent feature and allow you to emulate different color backlights or even just set your own custom palettes like some previous kits. You have full RGB control over the color value of each shade output by the MGB (total of four different values). Note that this doesn’t add more color information to the screen, the MGB will still only ever output four different colors (stock - white, light gray, dark gray, and black). Another reoccuring feature is going to be the pixel grid emulation. Personally, I prefer it off as it lowers the image quality and contrast but I know that is an appealing feature for a lot of people. This kit is my all time favorite for Game Boy Pocket. If pixel grid emulation is a killer feature for you, the funnyplaying implementation is a LOT better. There’s more variety and the options better looking. (see my install here)

#8. Cloud Game Store 2.6” IPS LCD Kit (formerly HiVision “AIO XL” TFT Kit) – On the surface, this kit appears to be the same kit as the previous AIO kits except with a larger screen except that the screen itself is not transflective, however. While this means visibility in direct sunlight is limited, the screen does have much better black levels. Viewing angles seem much better on this kit compared to other AIO style kits. The kit does support some basic color palette functionality and five levels of brightness, but the range of both are somewhat disapointing. There is also no pixel grid emulation (which I personally don’t mind but I feel is worth mentioning) as the LCD only supports 2x integer scaling and not the minimum 3x that is required for such a feature. I noticed no frame dropping or tearing. Despite the lack of high brightness levels and some options in similar kits, this is a really good kit. If the color palette support and brightness control were better (more options, saves values, maybe even on separate controls), it would take the place of the Funnyplaying IPS kit for my recommendation due to the much easier install and very similar image size and quality. This kit has an excellent price to performance ratio. (see my install here)

#2. HiVision 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – Exactly the same as DMG again. There are two different versions and both should work on this console. This is the version that would drops frames. Unlike the DMG, you do not need to solder except for one wire to the power switch. New versions of this kit come with a wire preinstalled on the ribbon that you can just wrap around the battery terminal. These iterations should have the frame dropping fixed as well. Soldering is no longer required but still highly recommended. Install is otherwise drop in with no other mods required, even in OEM shells. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. (see my install here)

#3. One Chip 690 TFT kit (AIO) (console and kit) – Exactly the same as DMG again. There are two different versions and both should work on this console. This is the version that does not drop frames. Unlike the DMG, you do not need to solder except for one wire to the power switch. New versions of this kit come with a wire preinstalled on the ribbon that you can just wrap around the battery terminal. Soldering is no longer required but still highly recommended. Install is otherwise drop in with no other mods required. Presumably, the custom color palettes that the new kit supports will work on this console too. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. (see my install here)

My pick for overall best balanced kit is definitely the Cloud Game Store 2.45” TFT kit (item #17). This kit does require minimal soldering but the actual ease of install, feature set, power usage, and price make it extremely compelling. If you don’t mind putting in a little more work and using an aftermarket housing, the funyplaying (FP) ‘Retro Pixel 2.0’ Laminated Q5 kit (#12) is better in nearly every single way. The former kit is pretty light on features but requires absolutely zero permanent modification to your CGB and is one of the cheapest in the list (of total replacement kits). It requires no shell modding, no permanent adhesive, but does require soldering one power wire. The latter kit is arguably easier to install as it requires no brackets, technically no custom lens, and no longer requires soldering. Cutting an OEM shell is rather difficult for this mod but when combined with funnyplaying’s custom CGB housings, no trimming is required and the install is one of the easiest of all the consoles and kits. While power usage is extremely high with this kit, the performance and appearance is second to none. It comes highly recommended. The first kit is stock sized and compatible with OEM lenses but the second is much larger and has very thin bezels. Those two kits exist on total opposite ends of the spectrum but if you want something nicely balanced in the middle with more of the higher performance features with less of the performance cost, the CGS 2.6” kit (#16) is absolutely fantastic. It’s bigger than stock like the Q5 kit but much easier to install in a stock shell. It’s not as bright but the power usage is much lower. You’ll still need a custom lens but the kit should come with one anyway.

There are five different options for the pixel grid emulation and some of the options are rather compelling. I would like to see future kits include this functionality. Performance seems to be ideal for a kit like this – no frame dropping or tearing and no weird artifacts to either side of the screen or missing pixel columns and these kits do include a way to move the image on the LCD if the screen or lens are not perfectly centered during install. There are some issues though. The install is largely identical to the OC OSD Q5 backlight kit (#13) but with an increased power consumption (over the OC option) and more convoluted controls. The feature parity does seem to be pretty similar despite not having an ‘on-screen display’ to manage settings. Regarding the controls for the kit, there is a required touch sensor and optional button controls. You can toggle every feature of the kit with the touch sensor only but hooking up the button controls does not provide an easier or better experience like usual. The button controls are used in conjunction with the touch sensor. Hopefully this decision is revised in future iterations of this kit. (see my install here

There are five different options for the pixel grid emulation and some of the options are rather compelling. Performance seems to be the best yet of any GBC kit – no frame dropping or tearing and no weird artifacts to either side of the screen or missing pixel columns, much like the previous iteration of this kit. There are some issues though. The install is pretty unique to this kit due to the laminated LCD but is possibly the easiest kit to install when used alongside funnyplaying’s custom GBC housings. Again, same as the previous kit, this kit features an increased power consumption (over the OC option), more convoluted controls. Regarding the controls for the kit, the button controls are used in conjunction with the touch sensor. The touch sensor controls brightness and pixel grid emulation settings whereas the button controls (and touch sensor together) control the position of the display on the LCD (a feature previously unique to the OSD kit, #13) and to change the colors of the GBC logo on the lens. (see my install here

#13. One Chip OSD IPS Backlight Kit Q5 Version (kit) – This kit uses a LCD that has a larger image size than stock. All kits before this used large LCDs but the image was either stock sized or even smaller. The result includes much thinner bezels and a much clearer and larger image. The tradeoff is the hit to battery life (compared to AIO kits) and the more complicated install*. Speaking of the 9380 kits, while this kit does require more shell trimming for a stock or cloud game store shell, the install is actually a bit easier as no positioning bracket is required. As long as you get the LCD in the shell straight and not askew, you can adjust where the image displays on screen to ensure that your lens cutout is lined up perfectly. Soldering is optional but for full functionality (custom palettes, image position, more brightness levels, battery display*), highly recommended. The only quirk that I noticed, if you can even call it that, is that the button combo to pull up the OSD and navigating the menu itself still sends inputs to the game. Depending on your game, this could be highly annoying but an easy work around is to boot the console without a game when changing the settings. Also, there are some games, such as Link’s Awakening (DX), that will trigger the OSD just from normal use. A workaround would be to disconnect the button controls (or use dip switches) so the OSD is disabled when not in use or to even just wire up the controls to different buttons. The color palettes are a neat gimmick and it’s cool that you can set custom palettes with this kit. Unlike the MGB version of this kit, the color palettes are more like color filters though as you can set how much red, green, or blue appears in the image (0-100% in 16 or 32 steps). Much more interesting is going to be the pixel grid emulation. Personally, I prefer it off as it lowers the image quality and contrast but I know that is an appealing feature for a lot of people. They have improved this feature quite significantly (copying funnyplaying’s implementation) but the specific implementation used here does not seem as polished as funnyplayings. (see my install here)

I did not see any other issues such as screen tearing or unexpected frame dropping and due to the lack of pixel overdrive artifacts present in kits that use the BlackBerry Curve 9380 display

#13½. One Chip Laminated Q5 IPS Kit – This is an identical version of the above kit but with a 2mm thick piece of glass laminated between the LCD and lens. Features and functions are identical to the above kit otherwise. Fitment is different as the trim is a bit more indepth. These screens do NOT work with the funnyplaying laminated housings, at least not without trimming the housing. This is due to the significant thickness of the display assembly. The kit will work with a funnyplaying laminated LCD however, but you will not get the illuminated logo. (see my install here)

#2. AGS-101 / El Clono TFT adapter (console and kit) – all around not a great mod. Don’t get me wrong, it was effectively the first backlight kit so of course we all went nuts for it but compared to the other options, it’s not a good idea at all to build a new one with all the newer alternatives. The LCD and adapter ribbon are both very expensive (though the new PCB adapter and its clones have gotten cheaper, the LCD pricing has more than made up for this). The install process is one of the most difficult as it requires precisely milling out the shell to fit the huge LCD. Due to the increased DPI of GBA LCDs, the actual image on the GBC is smaller than stock as well. Finally, battery life plummets with this mod, especially compared to other kits. One of the few pros is that the colors and image quality itself is pretty good. I ended up building a GBC using BennVenn’s v2.3 ribbon. I believe that the actual clones of this adapter use an older version of the firmware that is buggy with certain model GBCs but I had zero issues with my legit ribbon. (I assembled mine before I started filming youtube videos)

#3. Freckleshack v1/v2 690 TFT kit (console (left) and kit) – The first in the new wave of transflective LCD kits. The LCD this kit uses is smaller than stock but this allows certain kits to fit without modification to the console. The LCD also is high resolution and allows for the same integer scaling as the above taobao kit. The v1/batch 1 kits in particular had some screen flickering issues that broke Pokemon Pinball but all the remainder of the v1/v2 kits still do have some minor LCD flickering quirks. These kits also all require trimming cart reader pins and cutting of the shell to fit the kit. Overall, this kit is fantastic for the money, but v2.5 should be a nice improvement. They’ve all since been discontinued in favor of v2.5. No difference between v1 and v2 kits other than brightness control (v1 has no brightness control and aside from the first batch of v1 kits, they both have the minor quirk where the black screen bezels flicker white on screen transitions). The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. However, V1 kits did not have brightness adjust. (see my install here)

#4. McWill 690 TFT kit (console (right) and kit) – This kit came out pretty much at the same time as Freckleshack v1. It uses the exact same LCD but the install was very different. I had quite a few issues with the v1 kit but I’m told that most of them are resolved with v1.1. The install for v1.0 is complicated and way more difficult than it needs to be. The kit is drop in, except for the surface mount crystal oscillator that you have to solder on. Also, the kit didn’t even work in the first GBC I installed it in. I did notice some screen tearing in this kit. I’m told that the v1.1 fixes both my issues with screen tearing and having to solder that surface mount crystal oscillator but I’ll have to take someone else’s word for that one. Both v1.0 and v1.1 draw so much power that on a cold boot, you have to reboot your GBC two or three times before it will start up properly. I can only recommend this kit if literally nothing else is in stock (unlikely) or if you want the VGA output. Oh and because I want one more thing to complain about, the PCB is glued to the LCD and the screen kit is located within the shell via the shape of the PCB. My screen was glued in crooked and there is likely no way to fix it without breaking something. Thanks McWill. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. However, these kits do not have native brightness adjust. (see my install here)

#5. MidWest Embedded 690 TFT kit (console and kit) – This was also part of the first wave of transflective kits and came out pretty much at the same time as the other two. Between Freckleshack (v1 specifically) and McWill (v1.0), this seemed like the best compromise. Of those three, it was the only kit that supported brightness control and seemed to have no display related issues. However, after installing mine, I did notice a constant jittering of the screen. It does not appear to be dropping frames or tearing but it’s not quite buttery smooth either. This kit has a pretty serious affect on battery life. Most people claim to get more than what MWE claims, but even those who have measured the power consumption have noted that it’s very high. You do have to cut the screen bezel of the plastic shell to fit this thing. It does result in a much better visual appearance with the LCD closer to the lens though. Despite the issues, there was still a lot of thought put into the install and fit and finish of the mod and I’m still really impressed despite the minor visual issue. Honestly, it is a solid kit if not for the high battery consumption. There are still better kits for the cost though. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. Even with brightness adjust, you cannot disable the backlight with these kits, however. (see my install here)

#7. One Chip 690 TFT kits (AIO) (console and kits) – This kit is, more or less, a clone of the previous kit but with a different controller chip. It’s been very difficult to even know what kit you are getting ahead of time but it looks like the one chip version of this kit has a new feature. This new feature enables custom color palette support. This new feature will also help tell the two kits apart since the HiVision kit does not (yet?) support custom color palettes. This kit is anywhere from $35-60 but the price depends entirely on the vendor and the accessories it comes with. Install is literally drop in with no soldering or shell trimming required. It is 100% reversible. The “pirate” kits are made by the same factory that makes the “one chip” branded IPS kits. The Palm Centro 690 LCD that this kit uses is transflective which means that with the backlight off, the LCD is perfectly viewable in direct sunlight, just like OEM LCDs. (see more info on the difference between the HiVision and One Chip kits here)

#10. Taobao kit IPS LCD kit (“Galaxy Screen”) (console and kit) – this kit is pretty similar to the new Funnyplaying IPS kit (above) except that it’s been available for a few years already. This kit saw a super limited release on taobao then was hard to get for a while. You can still get one now but the wait list (as of 2020) is still over a month. It requires a not insignificant amount of trimming of the shell (pretty much the same as the funnyplaying kit) and a bit of soldering. The actual display image is very nearly stock sized (42mm wide for this kit vs 43mm wide for stock). The high resolution LCD used allows the kit to use integer scaling for the GBC image. This results in a super clean look with no screen door effect (it’s there still if you look really close though). The effect of the higher resolution is actually pretty similar to playing an emulator on PC with smoothing off. It’s very crisp. The image quality and viewing angles are absolutely fantastic but the colors look a bit over saturated and a bit, erm, off. There is no way to calibrate the kit to my knowledge. When the only other kit was the above AGS-101 kit, this one of the best / highest quality kits available. Now, not so much. There are way better kits for much less money. (see my install here)

There are a few options here that work on both GBA and GBA SP but I’m going to keep these sections separate as there are some different considerations for certain mods I believe. All of the kits have some downsides but between price and performance and availability, I like the Funnyplaying IPS v2 kit (item #13) as it has the highest screen quality available. It does require a bit of shell modification but pre-modified shells are available from several vendors now. I don’t think the AGS-101 TFT LCD (item #2) really holds up compared to a more modern LCD, especially with the release of FP’s “ITA” kit (item #14) but it is still a worthwhile mention. On that note, FP’s “ITA” kit (item #14) is actually a really nice option both for visual appearance, power usage, and price. I prefer the look of their older 9380 kit (#13) but with the price, power usage, and “ITA Ready” shells, it is difficult to make a valid argument against this kit. The Cloud Game Store ‘No Cut’ IPS kit (item #12) is pretty good, especially if you absolutely must not cut up your console, and there are very few downsides that make it difficult to recommend over the Funnyplaying kit. The ‘No Cut’ IPS kit does not require shell modification (or a replacement shell) and the image quality is very good in comparison to the Funnyplaying 9380 kits but the 9380 LCD (even toppoly) is still better in my opinion and cutting is highly recommended anyway so the LCD can sit flat against the shell. Install will be significantly improved if you don’t mind cutting up the shell a little bit (not nearly as much as the 9380 cuts) but this is not required. Cloud Game Store does also offer high quality console housing shells for this and the internal screen nubs are not present on these shells (and thus do not need to be removed unlike OEM).

#13. Funnyplaying 9380 IPS kit (v2) (console and kit) – This is my personal favorite kit based on how it looks and my personal preferences. I value that, with a funnyplaying housing, it’s extremely easy to build and effictively drop-in, unlike every other kit that claims to be drop in. No shell trimming or alignment brackets needed. When using an older funnyplaying housing, everything just drops right in and fits together and no soldering is necessary (unless you want brightness controls). Later housings made this a little more tedious as the support for other screen kits made it so you would need flush cutters to trim off positioning nubs in the housing. Otherwise, not much else has changed. For these reasons, I see this kit as the “gold standard” that other kits are compared to though apparently it has “rancid” pixel response (?), shimmering due to the non-uniform integer scaling (??), and terrible ghosting (???). The v2 kit came along shortly after the v1 kit bombed (and v1 customers could upgrade to a v2 ribbon for less than $10) and that fixed the screen tearing effect in its entirety. When released, this kit right here was the best bang/buck kit. That’s not to say there aren’t any issues, however. When playing emulators via a flash cart (NES especially) or any of the NES classic GBA games, there are some visual artifacts on the LCD due to the afore mentioned image retention with flickering screen elements. Additionally, there are quite a few games that will show flashing sprites like mentioned in the intro at the top of this GBA section. The shell does require some irreversable trimming for install but the kit does not require any soldering (brightness control is optional). FunnyPlaying does sell IPS-ready shells which make trimming or cutting unnecessary, but keep in mind their newer line of ITA-compatible shells do require a very minor trim to fit the 9380 panel. If you use the included adhesive, the install is PERMANENT. It is EXTREMELY difficult to remove a LCD without damaging it if the included adhesive was used. Luckily, replacement LCDs can be had relatively cheap. Because the DPI on this kit is smaller than OEM AGB screens, it does result in a larger display image than stock (after the integer scaling). It’s not that much bigger but it does require a custom screen lens and some extra trimming of the view window on non-IPS-ready shells, but losing the little bit of space at the edges is not even noticeable in any games that I play and it does not bother me. Since soldering is only required for the optional brightness control and high quality custom shells are available tailored to this kit, this kit is basically drop in. All that to say I definitely recommend the v2 kits. For an AGB, this is probably my favorite kit. I don’t really recommend the v1 kits though but I don’t think those are for sale anymore except maybe in some already assembled consoles (from third parties). There is no memory for brightness settings but the default brightness level is very reasonable. (see my install here)

#14. Funnyplaying ‘ITA’ (DSi) TFT LCD kit (kit) - Main claims of this kit (compared to previous IPS kits) is the much lower price, better power usage, and a much more pronounced screen door effect, similar to a stock AGS-101 LCD. So far, the pricing seems absolutely great (as of time of writing, kit is less than $30 USD) for the performance that you get. Funnyplaying has released these pictures so far and while I was