broken lcd screen macbook made in china

Apple"s standard policy is that a screen that survives the shipment from the factory in China and is delivered to you intact after that trip has no defects, and they will generally not repair it as a defect if the glass is broken under the standard "defects in materials or workmanship" warranty.

People had a lot of questions when I pulled out my M1 MacBook Air at a party over the weekend: “What is that?” “What happened to your laptop?” “Is that the new Mac?” This was to be expected, as there certainly was something different about mine. See, my MacBook Air doesn’t have a screen — and I made it that way.

Don’t worry — it’s not broken. All I did was take apart my laptop without, you know, re-attaching the display. It has now been simplified into just its bottom half: an aluminum slab with an embedded keyboard and trackpad. I’m calling it a “slabtop” now. And I kind of like it.

It sounds silly, but I swear a slabtop is more fun to use than a laptop. It’s freeing at a party where you can wirelessly connect to a TV with the keyboard in your lap — your hands freely flailing without smacking your screen during a Drawful game session with friends.

Look, I’m not crazy — I don’t go around looking at laptops and wondering how they would look with their heads chopped off, but I’ve probably replaced over a hundred display clamshells during my time as an Apple “Genius,” and I’m comfortable with it. The idea that plenty of people beat me to it also didn’t hurt: it’s been trending on Twitter and discussed on Reddit ever since that patent was published. Someone even made a slabtop with the forsaken Touch Bar, retaining at least one screen on their lap.

You do lose some functions when you delete the screen; hopefully, you’ll never need to fix your computer because you can’t see the recovery mode screen on an external monitor. Also, if you want to wirelessly stream to your TV, you’ll need to first physically plug the slabtop into a display to get to the AirPlay controls. You’ll also lose the built-in webcam, so if you’re doing any Zoom sessions, you’ll need an external one.

You could also lose access to Wi-Fi on certain older MacBook Pro models from 2008–2010 because the AirPort card and antennas were embedded in the display hinge. Thankfully, many of those models still have built-in Ethernet jacks from the era before Apple started taking away ports. (Ports are back, BTW.)

If you have a MacBook, you know, just sitting around, chillin’, happy as a clam...shell... you could make your own slabtop! Or you could be me and volunteer your cousin’s 2009 15-inch MacBook Pro while they aren’t around to supervise it.

But if your cousin isn’t as forgiving as mine, perhaps the eBay route is your best bet. I found recently sold listings for broken Touch Bar MacBook Pros going for around $400, either because they had cracked screens or a problem with the flexible display ribbon cables. But, hey, who needs flex cables anyway when we’re dropping dead weight?

Before we get started, make sure you have a toolkit with all the needed screwdriver bits: a pentalobe P5 to open up most MacBooks made 2012 or later, a Phillips 00 to open up most MacBooks 2012 or earlier; either way, you’ll want a full Torx set sizes 3-8 for various internal parts. You might also want a tri-wing Y1 driver to remove many 2010–2012 MacBook batteries (to avoid accidentally turning on your MacBook while working) or, in the case of the 2009 MacBook Pro, a pentalobe P6. It’s also nice to have a nylon pry tool and tweezers to safely pluck connectors and collect screws, or you could just grow your nails out for a few days as a substitute.

You’ll also need to have a monitor or TV to use your slabtop and a means to physically connect them. If your Mac only has USB-C ports like my M1 MacBook Air, get a USB-C to HDMI cable or a USB-C hub / dock that has a video output. But if your Mac is a bit older like that 2009 MacBook Pro, you’ll need a cable that goes from mini DisplayPort to whatever your external monitor uses, such as HDMI, full DisplayPort, maybe even DVI.

While I took apart the computers using sheer instinct, I did find a very good M1 MacBook Air display removal guide at iFixit and another one for the 15-inch 2009 MacBook Pro. If you’re opening up a different MacBook or maybe even another laptop entirely (heck, you could make a Chromebox from a Chromebook if you wanted to), you should look for a guide online on how to take it apart — or be like me and don’t, that’s up to you! Please be advised: I take no responsibility for any damage or injury caused by your attempt.

2009 MacBook Pro: The fan started spinning because I accidentally turned the computer on during surgery. Don’t forget to disconnect the battery. Photo by Umar Shakir / The Verge

For the past decade’s worth of MacBooks, the first step is to open the bottom case. Flip the MacBook upside-down and remove all the bottom screws (as many as 10) with either the pentalobe or Phillips driver, depending on the model. Be sure to note where each screw goes since some are longer than others, and the wrong ones could cause damage.

You may still need to pry slightly before it opens — with my M1 MacBook Air and the 15-inch 2009 MacBook Pro, I just needed to grab the aluminum base at the back edge near the vents and pull — you’ll feel a couple snaps from clamps holding them together, but don’t worry, it comes off easily. Most other MacBook models released come apart the same way — except for one major anomaly in the 12-inch Retina MacBook. That model has its battery and logic board attached to the bottom case with sensitive ribbon cables connected between the slabs. For that, I would recommend following this guide closely to avoid damage to the cable or battery.

The second step is to disconnect the battery. I made the mistake of skipping this step on the 2009 MacBook Pro and accidentally turned it on during surgery — better on my cousin’s MacBook Pro and not my MacBook Air, am I right? Anyway, for the 2009 MacBook Pro, I removed three pentalobe screws (tri-wing for the next few model years up), lifted the battery halfway up with its handy pull tab, then disconnected the battery.

The 2011 MacBook Pro’s battery is much easier to disconnect; you don’t even need to take the battery out. Ditto the M1 MacBook Air’s battery: all it takes is a flip-up and pull of the metal locking handle of the battery connector. (See image above.)

The third step is to disconnect and remove anything that comes in the way of getting to the display hinge screws, including internal video connectors, antenna connectors, and — in the case of my M1 MacBook Air — even the antennas themselves. Don’t worry — after the display is removed, you can put the antenna back and still keep Wi-Fi connectivity for your slabtop, unlike my cousin’s machine. Removing all these parts can be tricky, so you might want to follow an online guide for your particular model.

Disconnecting the antenna cables in the M1 MacBook Air. Don’t worry — these will go back when we finish up so you can keep Wi-Fi. Photo by Umar Shakir / The Verge

The fourth step is to remove the display clamshell. For my M1 MacBook Air: with the display cable disconnected and the antennas out of the way, I pick up the laptop and open the clamshell toits widest point, maybe 130 degrees. I then place the laptop upside down with the keyboard slab fully on the desk’s top and the display clamshell hanging down and off the edge of the desk like a wing. Hold it so it doesn’t slide off the table while you perform the next steps!

With the Air, there are six Torx screws holding the clamshell to the keyboard slab — three on each side — I removed two from each side and then only removed the last two screws after I was sure I could keep the lid from falling. The screen won’t necessarily pop off, though. You’ve got to dislodge the hinge from the frame first, and my trick is basically just to push the laptop screen as if I’m closing it while it’s upside down on the desk. It should pop out when the lid is nearly perpendicular to the base.

By the way, that step is a bit easier on the 2009 MacBook Pro. I kept the display open at a 90-degree angle off the desk instead of fully opening it, removed the screws, and then lifted the display straight up and off without any pushing or sliding.

Did you succeed as well? If so, let’s go plug it in! You can connect it to a monitor or TV with the right cable, power it on, and you should get a picture on-screen in about the same amount of time it took on your built-in one — though, if it’s an M1 MacBook, you might not get a picture until it’s finished booting up. If the monitor gets to the login screen but only shows a wallpaper with nothing to click, it’s because the slabtop has phantom limb syndrome and thinks it should output to the primary built-in display, but you can hit Command + F1 to switch to mirror mode, which should then reveal the main screen. You can also now mirror your screen wirelessly to an AirPlay-compatible TV or streaming box. Once it appears on the TV, disconnect the cable and enjoy the freedom of a slabtop on your couch!

An Apple patent from earlier envisioned a future MacBook that would fit within a keyboard. Strictly speaking, the concept isn"t new and has been tried in many computers of the yesteryears. However, some enterprising Chinese resellers have taken the idea to an entirely new level. Twitter leaker @DuanRui reports that Chinese audiences are increasingly looking towards a screenless MacBooks as their goto computing devices.

Essentially, the MacBook"s screen is stripped off entirely, leaving just the keyboard (and the peripherals underneath). This contraption is then sold as-is at a discount. They are often cheaper than used MacBooks, making them more attractive to budget-minded customers. It is a win-win situation as one gets the computing power of a MacBookfor cheap. The reseller gets to sell the screen separately, and most importantly, a perfectly functional laptop is saved from the landfill.

It is better than the Mac Mini in some use cases because of the keyboard and touchpad. The lack of a webcam can be addressed by an external soluition. There is very little tweaking required, as MacBooks have no qualms running without displays, and iFixithas an excellent guide on how to go about it. On the Chinese marketplaces such as Taobao, an early 2015 MacBook without a screen can go for as low as RMB 799 (US$127). Some newer and better-specced models can be had for around US$400.

b) You blew the backlight fuse. Check it, if blown, solder on a new one. WIll put up a video on how to replace a backlight fuse & spot it on a Macbook air shortly, but do check other videos for how to do QFN/other motherboard microsoldering.

Yeah they"re expensive as !@#$ and going down in price. I"m a more expensive vendor and I have them for $110, eventually they"ll be $40-$70 just like the 11.6" Macbook Air.

The rumor that the China made iPhone LCDs can’t survive the upcoming iOS updates existed for quite a long time which aroused panic among repair shops. Many repair shops who want to use/have already used these screens to compete with authorized repair are wondering, will Apple brick these iPhone to kill the third party repair? We ETrade Supply don’t think so and here is why:

Do you still remember that users sued Apple for bricked iPhone due to "error 53"? The situation is almost the same except only few people have let their home button be replaced by third party repair shops. How many China made iPhone LCDs have been sold? We don’t have the exact number. However, from what we know, the number should be over 1 million pieces at least. Will Apple brick millions of iPhones just to kill third party repairs?

Same rumors for the 4/4S screen before. The OEM LCDs for 4/4s died out for quite a long time, all screens supplied were China copy one since 2 years ago. Not a case of bricked phone/unusable have showed for the updating to the new iOS system.

The most possible reason that this rumor has been created—is just to cut the price of the China copy iPhone LCD and more possibly-- the demand for it.

A week before the Apple event in March 2016, the rumor was “China made iPhone LCDs can’t survive in the coming iOS 9.3 updates”, the price of these LCDs dropped significantly and everyone was holding their orders, waiting to see the result. Within one week, the price has dropped around $10/pc. After people found out that they did survive, the price increased again and here came the rumor “the China made iPhone LCDs won’t survive the iOS 10 updates”.

Since last June, more and more repair shops have accepted the China made iPhone LCDs because less OEM screens are supplied. A large certain amount of demand of OEM iPhone screens has been moved the China made ones. The rumor that “the China made iPhone LCDs won’t survive the newest iOS updates” will sure bring some demand back to those crappy OEM screen which have been used for quite a long time/ refurbished for multiple times.

The rumor is “ALL the China made iPhone LCDs won’t survive the iOS 10 updates”, not only for 5 series. As we all know, there are already China Made 6 screens in the market. Those who stocked large amount OEM 6 screens will be happy to see people still paying high price for the OEM 6 screens for quite a long time.

The supply chain of cell phone replacement parts is sophisticated, unclear and without any standards, which make it look more like gambling. Find a reliable long-term relationship partner who can grow with you is the key to success for repair shops. If you have any questions regarding the China made LCDs, please leave your comment below!

Off the top of my head, here are the Apple computers I owned over the years. I had a Macintosh SE/30 when I started college. I got a Powerbook Duo my later years in college–I remember I was one of the first to ever use a laptop in college and got reamed out in front of the whole class by a professor because he assumed I was playing games (I told him I was taking notes, and he sheepishly apologized but I dropped his class anyway). When I started my first job I asked for–and got–a PowerMac 7200 for work. Since then I’ve used for both work and home Performas, iMacs, Macbooks, iPods, iPads, iPhones, and every Apple product you can think of.

The last straw came with my MacBook Pro 13 inch 2018. I bought the machine for a ridiculous amount of money. But as soon as the warranty expired, I noticed the case started expanding because the battery was swelling. Also, the letters on the keyboard were repeating.

I was happy that Apple had a program in place to replace my keyboard for “free”, but when I took it in to the Apple store the “Geniuses” (a whole bunch of vacuous millennials who don’t know a PRAM from a DRAM) told me I had to pay $200 to get the battery replaced before I could get the keyboard replaced “for free”. Then, as I was preparing the laptop to bring it in for service, the screen broke because the battery had swelled so large.

In late 2021, it became clear why Apple never diversified its supply chain out of China. Tim Cook had made deals with China back in 2016 in response to some classic Communist Party blackmail. It seems that the China government was going to crack down on Apple with a whole bunch of regulatory actions, when Tim Cook rushed in to appease them. He signed a deal promising more than $275 billion of business to China-run hardware and software firms, as well as to invest billions of dollars in building up China’s infrastructure and to invest in China tech companies and universities. Where is that $275 billion coming from? A part of it came from every iPhone and Macbook we purchased that was made in China.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, this diversification was most likely another positive benefit of the 2018 tariffs, and why it’s so important for those to stay in place.

It would be literally tempting for you to use your MacBook as usual when you have got a cracked screen on it as you don"t want to spend extra cash on it and get it fixed in the middle of the work day. The damage may appear minor at first and this would be the perfect time for you to procrastinate. There are a number of damages that occur if you ignore a cracked MacBook screen and some of them might look obvious to you but others would surprise you. Before it cause more damage to your gadget, it is important that you seek help from Professional MacBook repair Mumbai technicians. Here in this blog, we are going to talk about the risks of using the MacBook with a cracked screen.

· Issue can get worse: The crack that has appeared at the corner of your MacBook screen may not seem like a big deal for you but it can worsen the issue. This is because the daily stress that your MacBook course through to your bag can make the small crack start to spread. With each and every small amount of pressure you put on your screen, can cause the crack to worsen day by day. The things can deteriorate rapidly in your MacBook.

· Causes eye strain and complicates the navigation: Not only a cracked MacBook screen can put a strain on your eyes but will also decipher what lies underneath that cracked screen. It can make difficult for you to figure out what"s on the screen and may even lead you to click on something else than what you"ve thought it to be. It can further lead to blunders that can cause losses in your professional or personal life.

· Can cause your display to malfunction:Even if the screen of your MacBook may continue to work as usual but a crack can cause long term display issue to malfunction. It can create a pressure on the display. It even creates exposure to the elements such as dust and moisture that can make the situation from bad to worse.

· Leave the screen exposed to the elements: The screen of MacBook works more than just a display - it is constructed to protect the inside of your MacBook from moisture, dust, dirt and foreign elements that the device encounters on a daily basis. The professional MacBook repair Mumbai cleared the fact that the moisture that air contains can cause the cracked MacBook screen to have negative effects on the overall health of the MacBook it can even cause damage to the hardware that would not be repairable.

Since the iPhone 7/7 Plus has been released for quite a long time, finally the China made iPhone 7/7 Plus screen replacementscame out in the market. we’ve got some iPhone 7 series LCD screen replacements samples and done some tests on them, now let’s take a closer look at these new iPhone 7 series LCD screen replacements!(TianmaandLGsources for testing)

After installing all the sample screens to the iPhone 7/7 Plus rear housing assembly, we found that all the China made iPhone 7 series screen replacements are fitting well just like the original ones - the home button fits well, the screen assembly and the rear housing also fits well.

From the picture below, we can see that there is no difference between the China made iPhone 7 series display and the original ones, however, back to the rear side, we can easily figure out which one is which, cause the original one has Apple logo on it while the China made screen has none.

By comparing these two iPhone 7 screens, we can find that the screen flex cables are much different, there are extra IC on the China-Made iPhone 7 screen while the original one has none. And the original iPhone 7 series screen flex cable is integrated together while on the China-Made iPhone 7 series screen the touch function flex cable is soldered to the display and 3D touch flex cable.

Another difference between the original and China made iPhone 7 screen replacements is the exposed IC on the after-market iPhone screen, just like other China-Made iPhone 5 or 6 series screen replacement, which has more potential risk of electrostatic damage and more likely to get damaged and this problem needs to be improved.

During our test, we found that the display color between our after-market iPhone 7 screen and original screen seems a little different although they are not effecting the touch function. And to be honest, there may have some black dots on the screen because of impurities within the screen module when laminating the LCD and backlight together, without any doubt, this can be solved with technical improvement.

The screen touch sensitivity is another big concern for all of us, luckily, during our test, almost all home button and touch functionality on both iPhone 7 and 7 Plus works well, except one piece of iPhone 7, the 3D touch function is not acting so well on the central part of the screen.

The China-Made iPhone 7 series LCD screen assembly replacement still remains to be improved in quality and performance compared to the original ones, the exposed IC, heavier screen flex cable ribbon, and the screen color difference, the touch function stability, although the price is attractive. However, the China made iPhone 7 series screen replacement is under the improvement, and sooner or later their quality and performance can be quite close to original ones and acceptable, if you"re going to stock up some non-original iPhone 7 series LCD screen replacement, pay more attention and we’ll keep you updated with further information about after-market iPhone 7 series screen replacement!

The 2010-2017 MacBook Air was a popular model while it was in production. The lightweight, long battery life, and affordable price point made them a great buy for a large group of people. This model is aging quite well and has very few issues. They continue to be a very usable computer, especially for people who don’t need a lot of power to meet their computing needs.

I have an article with all the common issues I see on this particular model MacBook Air if you want to learn more about the machine. See my A1466 MacBook Air common issues page for detailed information on what may happen as your computer ages.

One of the issues these MacBook Airs do have is a fragile display. The LCD panel is more easily cracked than other models of Macs, and the repair options are more difficult due to the design of the screen. The light design is partly to blame, as well as the thin design of the display assembly itself.

The cost of repairing common MacBook Air issues is generally very affordable, especially as the computer ages. For screen repairs, the cost of a professional repairis quite affordable.

When it comes to the A1466 MacBook Air, you have two options for screen repair. You can either replace just the cracked LCD (as long as the display assembly is still in good shape), or you can replace the entire display assembly.

Replacing the entire display assembly is what Apple offers at the Apple Store, as it is a much easier method than replacing the LCD panel only. Replacing the LCD panel only is a difficult procedure that requires a lot of skill and patience. Usually replacing the display assembly is faster, but not always.

I will cover both methods of MacBook Air screen repair in this article. I will start with the easier and more expensive display assembly replacement, then move on to the more difficult, but cheaper, LCD-only repair. But first, we will go over some reasons you may choose one type of repair over another.

There are a few reasons you might need to replace the entire display assembly rather than just the LCD panel. I have an article I wrote about the types of damage done to a MacBook that would make the screen need repair, but the two main issues are liquid damage and dents.

Basically, if the display assembly is damaged to a point where it should be replaced, then replacing the entire display assembly is going to be the best way forward. The display assembly includes the LCD panel, back housing, bezel, iSight, hinges, and more.

If there is liquid damage that caused the screen to not work properly, it is very likely that the components inside the display assembly are damaged which is best to repair by replacing the entire display assembly. If there are major dents or a bend to the display housing, then a new LCD panel will likely not fit nicely into the original display assembly.

It is very rare to have to replace the display assembly. Over 95% of the people who contact me looking for a MacBook Air screen repair just require an LCD replacement.

LCD panel replacement is by far the most common type of service that is necessary for a MacBook Air screen repair. Generally, the LCD panel is cracked or broken in some way, and by replacing the LCD panel we are able to fix the computer completely.

There are many ways that the LCD panel in a MacBook Air can fail, but the most common is cracking or bending to the point of cracking. The bending on this model can even come from something as simple as opening and closing the computer from the corner of the display instead of the center.

While LCD replacement on a 2010-2017 MacBook Air is a much more difficult job than replacing the display assembly, it does save you a lot of money to perform this repair. Due to the difficulty in completing this repair, I do recommend you utilize a good repair shop to complete it for you.

Finding a good part to replace your broken part with can be a little daunting. There are a lot of places you can source these display assemblies, but most are on used markets like eBay, or from sellers that source refurbished models from China.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the display assembly for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out for how to tell what years are compatible with which display assemblies, places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome, and more.

Apple uses odd screws on their MacBook Air line (and most of their laptops created after 2011). These more specialty screws require more specialty screwdrivers that you are not likely to have laying around the house. The tools needed for the display assembly replacement are:

Once you have all your important data backed up, go ahead and shut your computer down. This is done by clicking on the Apple logo at the top left of the screen and selecting “Shut Down…” from the list. Confirm you want to shut your computer down when prompted, and wait about 10 seconds after the display goes black before closing the lid of your computer.

Once the screws are removed, you can lift the bottom cover off the MacBook Air as shown in the picture below. Simply grasp the bottom cover from right behind where the two long screws came out, and lift it towards yourself. There are a few plastic tabs holding the cover in place, so it does take some force to remove the bottom cover.

As you probably noticed above, 2010, 2011, and 2012 models of the MacBook Air have the iSight cable connected to the IO board that you just removed. If you have one of the 2013, 2014, 2015, or 2017 models, you will remove the iSight cable from the logic board.

If there are any issues with the tests above, you can refer to my troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air. I cover common repair issues and how to fix them in depth.

Congratulations on completing the display repair on your MacBook Air! Let me know how it went, and if my instructions helped you enough that you want to show your gratitude with remuneration, I would love it if you bought me a donut!

Finding a new LCD panel to replace your cracked or failed LCD can be difficult. There are sellers on eBay and Amazon that source LCD panels that are grade B or have visual defects, then when you install it into your computer and notice the issue (after hours of work) they say you caused the damage. For this reason, it is best to go with a reputable repair shop to source the part.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the LCD panel for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out to find places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome and more.

The same tools are used to disassemble the MacBook Air as with the display assembly repair, but for LCD replacement you will also need a couple of additional tools and some special adhesive. The tools needed for the LCD panel replacement are:

Be sure to set aside plenty of time for this repair. I recommend splitting it into two parts. You start with the display replacement guide above to get the display off the computer, then rest and do something fun for a few hours, then come back to this guide to replace the LCD panel on your display. Overall I recommend setting aside an entire day for this repair.

It is much easier to do this repair with the display assembly removed from the computer. My display replacement guide above will get you through to having the display separate from the computer, then you move on to the process of removing the LCD panel itself from the display assembly.

The bezel is the silver strip that surrounds the screen on these A1466 MacBook Airs. Note that the bezel is held in place by a very strong adhesive, so the goal here is to heat up the adhesive to make removing the bezel easier.

In my experience, a temperature of around 300 degrees with a small air nozzle works really well. Keep the nozzle close to the center of the bezel and work your way around using movements as shown in the video. It is important to not let the heat stay in one area too long. You want to take care not to melt the rubber gasket that surrounds the screen and also to not cause damage to the backlight sheets that are just under the LCD panel.

You run the knife under the bezel starting at the bottom right corner of the screen. Work your way up and around until you have cut the adhesive between the bezel and the LCD panel all the way around the screen. Take extra care around the iSight camera. Just to the left of the iSight camera is the iSight camera board which is easily damaged during this process. Also, take extra care at the bottom left of the screen, this is where the iSight cable is easily nicked during the process.

There are 5 screws along the bottom of the LCD panel that are covered in little black pieces of tape. Use your tweezers to remove those pieces of tape, and then remove the screws. There are also two black screws holding down the inverter board at the bottom of the LCD. These two screws also get removed.

This is another part of the repair where you need to relax and take your time. Use the hot air and small nozzle to heat up the right-hand side of the LCD, right where it connects to the edge of the display assembly. There is a 2mm piece of double-sided tape under this area that is holding the LCD down.

I like to angle the hot air towards the edge of the screen and move it along pretty quickly, in order to keep the backlight sheets directly under the LCD from getting damaged.

Once the edge is warmed up, use your painting knife to slide under the screw post on the farthest right side of the display. This will lift the display just a little and cause upward pressure on the LCD panel. Keep heating the edge of the LCD panel until you see it start to lift a little, then work just the edge of a business card into the gab, and slowly move the business card up to separate the LCD from the housing.

This part of the repair takes a while, you want to work in sections, so heat up the tape holding down the LCD panel, then move the card a little bit up, then heat up the next area, and move the card up a little more. The better you do this part the easier the rest of the repair will be, so take your time.

The left-hand side of the LCD panel is held down by a larger piece of adhesive, this makes it quite a bit more difficult to use the business card method. For this part of the project, you will first heat the left side of the LCD where the adhesive is, then apply upward pressure by lifting on the right-hand side of the LCD panel.

Lift the right-hand side of the LCD panel very, very, very slowly while continually moving your heat up and down the left side of the LCD. This will allow the LCD to pull free of the tape, or the tape to pull free of the housing.

Now that the LCD panel is removed, you can see the piece of metal along the bottom that the screws were screwed into. This piece of metal needs to be moved back into the display assembly so it is ready for your new LCD panel to be installed.

Heat up the metal as it is attached with the same tape as the LCD panel was attached with, then use your painting knife to get between the metal and the LCD. This is usually pretty easy after just completing the more difficult LCD removal process.

This is where your 1mm tape comes into play! You want to replace any of the black tape that was damaged or removed during the process so far so you can install the new LCD and have adhesive around the whole thing.

I like to start by replacing any tape that was removed from the metal piece that sits below the LCD panel at the bottom of the assembly, then carefully put that metal piece back into the housing and screw it in as shown in the pictures. Note that the adhesive you just put in faces up towards you.

First, you want to use your can of compressed air to carefully blow any dust from the backlight sheets before installing the new LCD. Take care to not let those sheets get moved around in the process. They need to sit exactly where they are.

Remove any backing from the adhesive that you installed, and also remove the backing from the LCD panel. You can leave the plastic on the front of the LCD panel, but be sure you remove it from the back before installing.

Then you want to line up the circles on the top right and left of the display with the cross hairs on the LCD panel. Once those are lined up you can slowly sink the LCD into the housing, then gently run your finger around the whole LCD panel along the edge to make sure the adhesive is attached to the LCD panel as well as the back housing.

Apply the 12mm tape all around the LCD assembly. Note you want 1-2mm of the tape to cover the LCD panel to help keep it in place. Cut a small piece of the 12mm tape to go above the sight camera. Be sure to leave the area to the left of the camera open where the light sensor is located. The pictures show how it should look when you have completed the work.

Remove all the backing from the tape and install the bezel. I like to start by lining up the top right and left of the bezel, then letting it drop in just like I did with the LCD panel. Gently push on the LCD around the edges to make sure the adhesive is sealed.

Now that the repair is done it is time to test your MacBook Air. There are a few things that the display assembly does that you want to be sure to test.

If there are any issues with the tests above, you can refer to my troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air. I cover common repair issues and how to fix them in depth.

Congratulations on completing the display repair on your MacBook Air! Let me know how it went, and if my instructions helped you enough that you want to show your gratitude with remuneration, I would love it if you bought me a donut!

If you have just read through this guide and decided you would rather have somebody else do the project for you, please consider letting me repair your Mac screen! I have completed literally thousands of these Mac screen repairs, and have them down to a science. I keep my overhead low and provide a quality service for an affordable price.

I would love to help you get your MacBook Air back up and running properly. If you would like me to repair anything on your computer, you can either go through filling out the order form for a MacBook Air repair, or you can use my quick quote form to get a quote on the project you would like to have done.

If the screen on your iPad Air (3rd generation) has gone blank (with perhaps a brief flicker or flash may appear before the screen goes blank) and was manufactured between March 2019 and October 2019, these are eligible for a free of charge fix.

If a crack has formed along the rounded edge of the screen of the aluminum models of an Apple Watch Series 2 or Series 3, this could be as a result of a defect that Apple is aware of.

Apple has identified that some MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015) laptops sold between September 2015 and February 2017 may overheat and pose a fire safety risk.

According to Apple, a small percentage of 13-inch MacBook Pro may experience display issues:Display backlight continuously or intermittently shows vertical bright areas along the entire bottom of the screen

This is an odd one as it covers display flickering or Multi-Touch issues after the iPhone has been dropped multiple times on a hard surface. If your device fits the bill, and the device isn"t broken or the screen cracked, Apple will carry out a repair for $149.

Expansion was further pursued after a March 2012 acquisition of a 10-percent stake in the Japanese electronics company Sharp Corporation for US$806 million and to purchase up to 50 percent of the LCDs produced at Sharp"s plant in Sakai, Japan.Itu, Brazil, creating 10,000 jobs.

Foxconn and Sharp Corporation jointly operate two manufacturing plants specializing in large-screen televisions in Sakai, Osaka. In August 2012, it was reported that Sharp, while doing corporate restructuring and downsizing, was considering selling the plants to Foxconn. The company was believed to be receptive to the plan. The acquisition was completed with a $3.8 billion deal in August 2016.

In January 2019, Foxconn said it was reconsidering its initial plans to manufacture LCD screens at the Wisconsin plant, citing high labour costs in the United States.