sainsmart 3.2 tft lcd raspberry pi wiki for sale

The 3.2 inch TFT LCD module is a special design for Raspberry Pi for portable application. It features a 3.2” display with 320x240 16bit color pixels and resistive touch screen. The LCD is well mated with Pi board and interface with Pi via the high speed SPI port, and support console, X windows, displaying images or video etc. It also provides 4 press buttons for user defined functions.

RPi LCD needs to use a SPI interface, but in the original image file of Raspberry Pi, the displayer is driven via a HDMI port. So the original image is not applicable for RPi LCD, and you should install the LCD driver to your Pi or use the Ready-to-use image file provided by Sainsmart,click here.

Download the LCD driver and extract it to your Raspbian OS (e.g. copy the driver to your Pi by sftpor using U disk). Then run the following command via putty:

This LCD can be calibrated using a program called xinput_calibrator which is pre-installed on the offer image. However, it was not pre-installed on original Raspbian OS. So in this case, you should get and install the program manually with

After running these commands, there will be a prompt for four-point calibration shown in the LCD screen. Click the points one by one to finish the touch calibration. Then, the new calibration data will be displayed in the terminal, as shows below. Please get these data for future use.

The 3.2 inch TFT LCD module is a special design for Raspberry Pi for portable application. It features a 3.2” display with 320x240 16bit color pixels and resistive touchscreen.

The 3.2 inch TFT LCD module is a special design for Raspberry Pi for portable application. It features a 3.2” display with 320x240 16bit color pixels and resistive touchscreen.

Not only the Pi,you can also use it with any other Mini-PCs like Cubieboard,Marsboard (resolution is limited depending on the board, and touch panel is unavailable)

Download the LCD driver and extract it to your Raspbian OS (e.g. copy the driver to your Pi by sftpor using U disk). Then run the following command via putty:

LCD-specified initialization code is provided, so that you can save time to optimize power control register and gamma curves for best display performance. We have test the provided code, it gives the best display performanace

I just picked up the sainsmart 3.2 TFT LCD screen. I am having trouble getting it to work. First issue is the tutorials I have found are using a windows environment but I only have Macs. I haven"t been able to figure out how to write the image to the microSD card.

The RPi LCD can be driven in two ways: Method 1. install driver to your Raspbian OS. Method 2. use the Ready-to-use image file of which LCD driver was pre-installed.

2) Connect the TF card to the PC, open the Win32DiskImager software, select the system image downloaded in step 1 and click‘Write’ to write the system image. ( How to write an image to a micro SD card for your Pi? See RPi Image Installation Guides for more details)

3) Connect the TF card to the Raspberry Pi, start the Raspberry Pi. The LCD will display after booting up, and then log in to the Raspberry Pi terminal,(You may need to connect a keyboard and HDMI LCD to Pi for driver installing, or log in remotely with SSH)

1. Executing apt-get upgrade will cause the LCD to fail to work properly. In this case, you need to edit the config.txt file in the SD card and delete this sentence: dtoverlay=ads7846.

This LCD can be calibrated through the xinput-calibrator program. Note: The Raspberry Pi must be connected to the network, or else the program won"t be successfully installed.

2) Log into the command line interface for Raspberry Pi（Initial user name: pi, Password: raspberry）, Get the latest drive from GitHub (the raspberry pie needs to connect to the Internet), Execute the following commands:

19-Apr-2012: Now that the Model B board is shipping, details added should relate to this board and the default Debian distribution unless stated otherwise. A suggested suffix markup scheme is as follows:

The original Model B board had current limiting polyfuses which limited the power output of each USB port to approximately 100 mA. USB devices using more than 100 mA had to be connected via a powered hub. The Raspberry Pi"s PSU was chosen with a power budget of 700 mA of which 200 mA were assigned to the USB ports, so the Raspberry Pi"s (poly)fuses were designed only for devices up to 100 mA, and typical 140 mA polyfuses will have as much as 0.6 volt across them when drawing currents near the 100 mA limit. As a consequence the USB ports are only directly suitable for "single current unit" USB devices which, according to USB specifications, are designed to work with just 4.4 Volt. Not only do non single current unit devices draw more current (causing greater Voltage drops, and greater stress on the fuses), they also might require 4.75 Volt to work.

Shortly after the Raspberry Pi was released it was confirmed that there were a number of issues with the Linux USB driver for the SMSC95xx chip. These included problems with USB 1.x peripherals that use split transactions, a fixed number of channels (causing problems with Kinect) and the way the ARM processor handles the SMSC95xx interrupts. [2] [3]

The FLIRC USB dongle allows the use of any remote control with your Raspberry Pi. Configure the device on your desktop PC, then simply plug into your Pi for a perfect media center companion. Available from Pi Supply and The Pi Hut

ZTE Rocket MF591 - Tested with T-mobile network and Model B+ running Raspbian with usb-modeswitch and Sakis3G script. (Followed guide to work: http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-as-a-3g-Huawei-E303-wireless-Edima/?ALLSTEPS)

You will usually want the alsa package for sound. In the Debian image for Raspberry Pi (and possibly other distributions) USB sound cards are prevented from loading as the first sound card, which can be an annoyance if it"s the only device you have. To disable this behaviour edit /etc/modprobe.d/alsa-base.conf and comment out the last line; options snd-usb-audio index=-2 . If you are not user pi you may need to add your username to the audio group thus: sudo adduser yourusername audio (user pi usually belongs to this group anyway).

If you encounter problems setting up your USB soundcard check the RPi Wiki article in the linuxaudio.org Wiki: http://wiki.linuxaudio.org/wiki/raspberrypi

The FLIRC USB dongle allows the use of any remote control with your Raspberry Pi. Configure the device on your desktop PC, then simply plug into your Pi for a perfect media center companion. Available from Pi Supply, The Pi Hut and Buy Raspberry Pi Australia

DVB-T205, based on rtl2832u chipset, worked with this driver on older 3.2 kernel. Couldn"t get same device working reliably on current kernel. (On the older 3.2 kernel it worked with Saorview (Irish DTT service), both HD & SD.)

TV28T v2 USB DVB-T & RTL-SDR Receiver, RTL2832U & R820T Tuner, MCX Input. DVB-T works with OpenElec 4.2.1 connected to the PiHub, tvheadend backend + frontend, finds all expected, non-encrypted channels in the south of Germany. I did not try to use the remote.

Mystique SaTiX-S2 Sky USB: Scanning/watching SD and HD works via vdr and streamdev plugin, watching on the Raspberry Pi directly is laggy as hell. DVB-USB and I2C support must be enabled in the kernel. Needs drivers/firmware from here.

K-World UB499-2T Dual DVB-T USB Tuner. IT9137 chipset. With no other USB devices connected Raspberry Pi can just about power this stick. IR and supplied remote work with XBMC.

Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD. Instructions: http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD Used the Raspberry Pi to receive and redirect it via network to another host. Didn"t try to play back the stream on the Raspberry Pi itself. Tested with Astra 19.2E radio and SD-TV channels

TT-TVStick CT2-4400 USB Fernbedienung rev2. DVB-T works with OpenElec 4.9.4 BETA connected to the PiHub, tvheadend backend + frontend, finds all expected, non-encrypted channels in the south of Germany. DVB-C also works, finds around >30 TVs and >100 radio stations. I did not try to use the remote, nor did I listen to any radio station. TV works, SD channels are ok, HD channels jitter. tvheadend backend crashes often within OpenElec 4.9.4 BETA, but restarts, so still buggy but looks good(BETA!). It did not work out of the box with the stable OpenElec 4.2.1.

Garmin eTrex Vista HCx: It works, but it may draw too much power. To get it working (software part): https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/USB_Garmin_on_GNU/Linux

GlobalSat BU-353 Does not require a powered hub, works fine when directly plugged into the Raspberry Pi. On Raspian, requires the gpsd and gpsd-client packages. For some reason, the gpsd daemon does not always start correctly on boot. You may need to do something like the following to manually restart it:

A USB UART adapter is used to access the serial console of the Raspberry Pi from a development host such as a laptop or desktop PC. The USB end connects to the PC and the UART header end connects to the USB. While it is possible to connect the USB end to another Raspberry Pi, this configuration has not been tested unless explicitly mentioned against an individual entry below.

A USB to Serial (RS-232) adapter is used the other way around, ie. the USB end connects to the Raspberry Pi and the RS-232 end (DSUB-9 or DSUB-25 pin) to the other device which may be another computer, (old) modem or printer, or some electronic test equipment.

FG-U1232-PL2 Based upon the Prolific PL2303X chipset and listed by lsusb as ID 067b:2303 Prolific Technology, Inc. PL2303 Serial Port. Appears as /dev/ttyUSB0, and requires the user to be a member of the dialout group (which pi is for Raspbian Wheezy). Initially tested using an old RS Datalinker setup in "loopback" mode via microcom upto 9600 baud, and gtkterm after installing that from source code. All handshake lines toggled as expected and no characters were lost. Subsequently gtkterm was used to check bi-directional communication with an ancient brother EP44 electronic typewriter (as a printer/dumb terminal) at 1200 baud. Signal lines were again monitored with the Datalinker.

Based on the Prolific PL-2303HX chipset. Listed by lsusb as ID 067b:2303 Prolific Technology, Inc. PL2303 Serial Port. Appears as /dev/ttyUSBX with GUID dialout so your user has to be in that group. If not, sudo usermod -a -G dialout yourusername will add your user to the dialout group. Works great with screen /dev/ttyUSBX 115200 to connect from your workstation to your RPi.

CH340 Chipset - Currently not supported by RPi but there is a patch of kernel code here, but it is for a 2.X kernel. If you find you have bought one of these, then it may work under Windows, but as of writing there is no support for RPi. Otherwise you can have a go at getting the patch to work.

PL2305 Chipset with Centronics 36w connector. Originally purchased for use with a netbook and connected to an old Canon BJC-250 printer. Worked fine under RISC OS Raspberry Pi with its in-built BJC-250 driver. Could not install the CUPS drivers etc. for Wheezy-Raspbian initially, but was able to do so for Wheezy-armel. Once I"d updated/upgraded Wheezy all was fine.(See notes at CPM-Spectre-Pi...USBtoParPrntAdapter for more info. and also a CUPS/Wheezy installation guide)

2.5" SATA HDD USB Adapter with silicone HDD sleeve. Model: USB-ADT-25SATA. Works on powered Hub, not directly to Raspberry Pi. Built-in "Y" power adapter. Does work direct on some ver2.0 boards if used with 5.25 power supply, or Y adapter

Initially would not work when plugged in directly to Raspberry Pi. Worked when connected via an unpowered Trust hub. Worked after Raspberry Pi was modified with 10K resistors over the USB polyfuses (warranty invalidated). Probably would work fine with powered hub.

To make it working deploy the Futronic libScanAPI on your Raspberry Pi (example code and instructions included): Media:ScanApi_armlinux_RPi_gnueabihf_gcc472_update1.zip ‎

Futronic has released an updated API. This works with their newer "H" model scanners (updated CMOS). This means the FS80H and FS81 (the OEM version of the FS80H) will now work with the RPi (I tested this myself).

Unbranded active converter known as the "blue cube". Based on the Cypress CY7C63723C 8 bit RISC. Please see http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=PS2-to-USB+adapters for more information.

Note that although the adapter might work, PS/2 keyboards were not designed to be low power USB devices, so they might not meet the requirement to work with considerable lowered supply voltage (4.4 volt) provided by the USB ports of the raspberry PI. These keyboards should work when powered by a powered hub.

The Raspberry Pi does not have a power on/off switch as standard (it does have a reset switch), however some add on boards have been developed to cater for this need.

The Pi Supply Switch is an on/off power switch for the Raspberry Pi which includes a hard on and off switch and a soft shutdown switch for the Pi, making it easy to manage power on your Pi. They were recently successfully funded on Kickstarter.

The RemotePi Board is an intelligent infrared remote controlled power switch add-on board for the Raspberry Pi. It allows to switch power on and off using any button (configurable in learning mode) of an existing standard IR remote. Power is only cut after notifying the OS and giving it time to shut-down. It is mainly intended to remote control (using LIRC) and power off/on a mediacenter system. i.e OpenELEC, Raspbmc, XBian, RasPlex, Raspbian. The board is compatible to simple GPIO IR receiver and piggy backs onto the Raspberry Pi, no soldering required. For more information click here.

The Raspberry Pi uses a standard Micro USB (type B) power connector, which runs at 5 V. Generally you can use a MicroUSB to USB cable and then either power the Raspberry Pi directly from your main computers USB ports (if they provide enough power), or by using a USB to Mains adapter. A number of mobile phones use MicroUSB power cables, and these are compatible with the Raspberry Pi in most cases. Below is a list of power adapters known to work.

There is now a 5.25V 1500mA power supply manufactured specially for the Raspberry Pi to account for voltage drop due to the high current draw of the Raspberry Pi when compared to typical (phone charging etc.) duties.

Note that apple designs its charger products to work optimally as chargers. In practice this means that apple chargers drop their output voltages somewhat with output current, so that the charging circuits do not need to dissipate more heat than is strictly necessary. Because of this, and although many people have reported apple products to power their basic PI setup reliably, its still not an optimal choice for a PI system that uses power hungry USB devices. Also, because of the popularity and high price of these chargers there are many very sub standard, but almost impossible to recognize as fake copies on the market, and some of these fakes are about the worst things you can try to power your PI with! Not only do they not work, they may actually be dangerous to use!

5 V 550 mA curve 8520 charger works with raspberry pi Model B Board v. BS1233. It does not work with Raspbmc image.Symtoms are frequent key board and external hdd disconnects.

Model: CYSK10-050200 fast charger with 5V 2000mA output, tested with USB WiFi, USB flash drive and USB wireless KB&MS connected. RPi users in China mainland can use this power adapter.

5 V 2x1 A Dual Charger Model TR9202-MICRO. Typically provides 4.8 V at 1 A per output. Can be used to power a Pi and, via a separate cable, a USB 4-port hub

5.25V 1.5A Raspberry Pi USB Power Supply Specially designed for the Pi. Comes in 4 varieties for worldwide compatibility - UK, European (EU), American (USA) and Australian (AUS).

Dual USB Wall Plate. Has a 2.1A "Tablet" port, a 1A "Phone" port and a US electrical outlet. Powers a Raspberry Pi 2 from the 2.1A "Tablet" port. Available from Five Below. Link

38113BBR Juice Pack Powerstation 4000 mAh: output 2.1 A max: included charging cable powers RPi, 7.5 hrs light use w/keyboard and mini-Wifi on RPi ports

iEP387 Dual-Port 7000 mAh External Power Bank (The charging lead can be used to connect the Tecknet to the Raspberry Pi. Ran the Raspberry Pi with Wi-Fi dongle and wireless keyboard receiver for over 9 hours of light use.)

iEP390-9000mAh External Power Bank (The Power Bank has been verified working with RPI3 with on-board Wifi and HDMI out. Additionally, the Power Bank supplies power to RPI continuously without disruptions even when the Power Bank is connected / disconnected from charger -> it can be used as a cheap UPS)

Note that active converter boxes may draw power through the HDMI port, and thus will put an extra load on your PSU, and also increase the current running through the Raspberry Pi"s primary input fuse. HDMI ports (and the raspberry PI) are designed so that they deliver a very limited amount of power (50 mA) to the TV/Monitor/display-adapter and much more isn"t in theory allowed. In fact there is a diode (D1) in series with the power line which can only handle 200 mA, if the adapter tries to draw much more than that the diode might fail. Therefore only externally powered adapters are to be recommended. Despite this, many people report success with non externally powered devices. If you have bought a non externally powered HDMI to VGA adapter, and you experience problems with it (It behaves badly, D1 burns out, F3 "blows", or your PSU overloads), then not all is lost, there are cheap (a few dollars) adapters that allow you to add external power to the HDMI cable! An example can be found here: [13].

There are three kinds of DVI. There is DVI-D, a digital signal fully compatible with HDMI, so a passive cable can be used. There is DVI-I, which is a connector with both analog pins and digital pins. An HDMI to DVI-D adapter fits in a DVI-I female connector. Finally, there is DVI-A. This a fairly rare connection, but occasionally it will be found on some monitors and is an analog interface, in fact the same as VGA! In any case, you may need to change config.txt hdmi_force_hotplug=0 to =1 if your display does not receive DVI signal (the analog output is likely active).

Some adapters like Farnell part AK-CBHD03-BK are HDMI to DVI-I, which, while not fitting in a DVI-D monitor, are still compatible. The analog pins simply must be bent.

A generic HDMI-to-DVI converter from eBay. Works well, but it"s probably the cause of some power loss between the Raspberry Pi and the monitor, causing this problem. A setting of config_hdmi_boost=5 in /etc/boot solved this. Note that config_hdmi_boost=4, as suggested in the troubleshooting guide, helped, but it did not solve the problem completely.

But normally HDMI cables never carry analog signals and the PI surely doesn"t output analog signals either, almost no HDMI output device does, as its completely against HDMI specifications.

HDMI to VGA converters do work, they convert the digital serial data streams from HDMI and using complex logic, and digital to analog converters they convert the HDMI signal to the analog signals needed for VGA, and sometimes also convert HDMI audio to an analog stereo signal. But note that if they feed off the PI it can cause a problem, as the PI only is designed to provide about 50mA to the (HDMI or DVI-D) monitor, and these adapters use >200mA, while the absolute maximum the PI can let through is 200mA.

It seems unlikely any of these HDMI->VGA converters could be used for driving a SCART RGB SD CRT TV with a suitable lead (as shown here for ATI/Nvidia PC output http://www.mythtv.org/wiki/RGB_Scart) because they only output preset progressive resolutions, whereas the TV will need an interlaced resolution and probably custom timings.

Under six pounds with free international shipping [14] makes this worth the delivery time of just under 3 weeks. Works out of the box at 1024x768 without editing config.txt (I"ll try editing for full HD later). Spec. says upto UXGA and 1080p with 10-bit DAC at 165MHz/1.65Gbps. Raspberry "tvservice -a" reports that it supports audio up to 192k at 24-bit. Sounded fine on my tiny speaker. Comes with 3.5mm stereo plug-to-plug cable and USB to mini barrel jack power cable which it doesn"t need on the Pi. Ran mine for ages without the external power and the Pi"s HDMI regulator never got more than 34 degrees C. Adapter weighs only 14.8g and can plug directly into the Pi or even via a 90-degree "elbow" which I prefer to use. VGA signal is good enough to run 2 displays at once using a cheap splitter cable. After brief testing with good headphones, it seems there"s some definite noise on a signal of 17,500Hz and 18,500Hz is distorted. In contrast, the RPi"s own analogue sounds clean at 17,500Hz. So you couldn"t consider this an alternative to a good USB DAC.

At under ten pounds this one [15] is one of the cheapest, but perhaps due to a more advanced design is seems power frugal enough to most often work well with a Pi, it has many comments saying it works well with the Pi, and gives tips on how to edit config.txt.

According to user "Tom1989" the same Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter burned out BAT54 Schottky diode D1 on the Raspberry Pi and broke its HDMI output: Serious HDMI Problems. What"s that smell? Burning Raspberry!. On that thread, "mahjongg" suggested the NXP (or equivalent) PMEG2010AET as a high-current replacement for D1. The PMEG2010AET has 1 A max forward current, much greater than the BAT54"s 200 mA limit which may be exceeded by your HDMI -> VGA converter. Remember that the converter"s current must come from your Raspberry Pi power supply and go through the Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3, so you may get extra voltage drops and/or cause F3 to trip depending on how much current the converter uses. As always with board modifications, YMMV. Also on the same" thread, user "pwinwood" reported the Neewer"s current to be 400 mA, which is twice the limit of BAT54 diode D1. "pwinwood" also took the Neewer apart and added its own +5 V connection adapted from a USB cable, which bypasses Raspberry Pi"s Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3.

Sadly the IC"s on the PCB have all been scrubbed. In-depth review http://raspi.tv/2013/hdmi-to-vga-video-converter-with-sound-for-raspberry-pi-review.

HDFuryPro HDMI to YPbBr/VGA Converter found on Amazon -- [16] -- Works with Raspberry Pi. Tested against a Philips 170B 1280x1024 LCD monitor, producing a full native resolution image. Not tested against a Component Video TV yet, and audio has yet to be got working.

HDFury1 1080p HDMI to VGA Converter from HDFury.com. I"m not sure the HDFury1 can be got a hold of easily nowadays, I happened to have access to one to try out. HDFury2, 3 and 4 are available as far as I can tell, but it is very pricey compared to the alternatives. HDFury1 was around £80 when we bought one for a project at work. HDFury2 seems to be around £130, 3 and 4 are getting on towards £200 or more. So not to be recommended as a solution unless you happen to have one lying around. I don"t believe there is any relationship between the company that produces these and the HDFuryPro I bought for myself (See above). I didn"t alter any config settings, just plugged it in. It doesn"t work without having its external power supply connected, as it requires 0.4 A, which is too much draw for the 5 V supply available from the HDMI socket on the Raspberry Pi. Its power LED lights, but no picture is produced. In comparison to the HDFuryPro this picture from this device is sharper, but it is not enough to justify the extra cost.

Turn on the RaspberryPi with the adapter plugged into the HDMI port and the microUSB cord plugged into the adapter. Having the microUSB cord plugged in is critical for it to work. With the Pi still on, unplug the adapter from the HDMI port and remove the VGA cable from the adapter. Now unplug usb cord from the adapter and immediately plug back in. Only the microUSB power cord should be plugged in. Now plug the VGA cord back into the adapter. Both the power cord and the VGA cord should be plugged into the adapter. Plug the adapter back into the HDMI port. Now it should be working. From playing around with the device on my laptop I found that the adapter needs power to be able to tell what the resolution of the VGA monitor is. If it is unable to find the VGA resolution it will not work. Unplugging the HDMI, VGA, and power cord seems to reset the device. Plugging the microUSB cable in seems to turn on the device, allowing VGA resolution detection to work. This method will probably work by just starting the Pi with no adapter plugged in, then just plug in the microUSB, VGA, and HDMI cable in that order.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-v1-4-male-to-vga-female-converter-adapter-cable-white-15cm-130458, is cheap (it"s free shipping from china) and works perfectly, I tested it with an Acer VGA monitor (AL1511), without no change in my XBMC distribution.

http://cgi.ebay.pl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251086464644. It is very cheap, but it works perfectly. No config.txt changes was needed at all. I"ve booted Raspbian and OpenELEC. Monitor is detected correctly and the optimal resolution is set (Raspbian) or you can change the res in the menu (OpenELEC). The /opt/vc/bin/tvservice is able to read monitor edid data. I tested the adapter using NEC 72VM 15" LCD. (1280x1024 60 Hz, 1024x768 60 Hz, 640x480 works) The adapter is based on Lontium LT8511A chip, but I was unable to get the specification for it. The D1 diode is getting very hot though. Most likely the adapter drives more than 200 mA. The standard RS Components 1.2 A USB power supply is able to provide enough power for the Raspberry Pi and the adapter. I"ll try to modify the adapter to connect external power to bypass D1.

The "Pi-View" was designed specifically for use with the Raspberry Pi. It does work although the small box gets warm and the video output isn"t great (slightly fuzzy text, smaller screen area even with overscan enabled) [17]

SCART adapters (SCART plugs with three RCA connectors in the back), will probably work when used with the yellow RCA plug connected to the Raspberry Pi"s RCA video output. Additionally using a splitter cable (3.5 mm jack plug on one end, and red-white RCA plugs on the other end) will probably work when plugged into the red and white (left and right audio channels) of the SCART adapter.

http://lightberry.eu it"s the first (I think), dedicated hardware for Raspberry Pi that can produce colorful effects behind your TV, when you watch movies or even pictures. It uses GPIO pins (not USB). It is easy to configure - you can even download configured system image from the producer website. Works perfectly :)

Total memory of 256 KB. Uses the ATmega16U2 (ATmega8U2 before Rev3) USB chip. Most shields that were designed for the Duemilanove, Diecimila, or Uno will fit, but a few shields will not fit because of interference with the extra pins.

Upgraded from Seeeduino Stalker V3.0 Lower power consumption (down to 100uA in sleep mode) Extra toggle switch for X-bee area 2 extra toggle switches for selecting the INT pin connected to RTC 3.3 V and 5 V dual mode

Serial communication on pin D0 (RX) and pin D1 (TX). used to receive (RX) and transmit (TX) TTL serial data. These pins are connected to the corresponding pins of the FTDI USB-to-TTL serial chip. By sliding the switch (S1), RX/TX pins can be re-routed to Bluetooth UART connector.

inviot U1 (arduino-compatible) all-in-one board with LCD, rotary encoder, RTC DS3231, EEPROM, buzzer, push buttons, RGB Led, NRF24 plug, and ESP8266 plug.Added features:

Japanese Arduino compatible kit using Uno board setting. Includes two mini-B USB sockets, 1602 LCD socket, 5 V or 3.3 V power selection, breadboard area.

Platino is an Arduino compatible board that supports 28-pin and 40-pin AVR devices. The board features multiple footprints for user interface elements like LCDs, pushbuttons, rotary encoders, LEDs and buzzer, supported by an extensive library. Bootloaders are available for all supported processors. On its backside are Arduino shield compatible connectors plus other extension connectors.

A low cost Arduino clone using the ATmega168/ATmega 328/ATmega 8 and designed for prototyping, it includes onboard peripherals such as an RGB LED, switches, IR LED, TSOP and LDR.

Fully Arduino compatible board, that fits perfectly on a Raspberry Pi, and can be programmed through the Raspberry Pi"s serial interface. It also breaks out the Raspberry Pi"s SPI and I²C interfaces, or can be used as a stand-alone Arduino when powered with the external power header.

Includes 14 color-coded 3-pin connectors for direct cable connection of servos, electronic bricks, etc., and six color-coded3-pin connectors to analog inputs for electronic bricks, etc. Provides improved 3.3 V regulator supplying 500 mA, and optional 3.3 V operation. Switching regulator provides 5 V 2 A from up to 20 V external supply.

Includes 6 color-coded 3-pin connectors for direct cable connection of servos, electronic bricks, etc., and 6 3-pin connectors to analog inputs for electronic bricks, etc. Provides improved 3.3 V regulator supplying 500 mA, and optional 3.3 V operation.

Can act as a host for an Android device and is compatible with the Android Open Accessory Development Kit, Micro SD card slot, D13 pin isolated with a MOSFET of which can also be used as an input.

Includes both 3.3 V and 5 V regulators for shields, D13 pin isolated with a MOSFET of which can also be used as an input. Can be connect to Arduino using CAT5 cable.

Arduino Due with onboard Ethernet, software-compatible with Arduino Ethernet shield, D13 pin isolated with a MOSFET of which can also be used as an input.

Uses Arduino Due form factor and largely compatible pin allocation. Runs at 5 V, but can be modified to run at 3.3 V. Triple-core, 32-bit, 200 MHz Aurix processor. 4 MB flash, 550 kB SRAM, 128 kB DataFlash. Optional CIC61508 safety monitor. Arduino IDE supported via add-in, plus Eclipse-based tools with multicore debugger.

MBZ Pro Mega is an Arduino compatible stand-alone board with a prototyping area and built-in Wi-Fi. Featuring a compact design, it helps to shrink Arduino projects and make it permanent.

This is a minimalist tracked platform based on the Arduino Duemilanove. Has an ATmega328 with Arduino bootloader, a dual H-bridge and additional prototyping space and headers. It is compatible with many shields, though four digital pins are used when operating the motor controller. Has an onboard voltage regulator, additional LEDs, a temperature sensor, and a light sensor. Part of the DFRobotShop Rover kit.

An Arduino Mega 2560 compatible board designed for auto-piloting and autonomous navigation of multirotor aircraft. Designed to be stacked with sensor bobs and boards with several breakout boards available.

These boards are compatible with the Arduino software, but they do not accept standard shields. They have different connectors for power and I/O, such as a series of pins on the underside of the board for use with breadboards for prototyping, or more specific connectors. One of the important choices made by Arduino-compatible board designers is whether or not to include USB circuitry in the board. For many Arduino tasks, the USB circuitry is redundant once the device has been programmed, so that circuitry can be placed in the cable between development PC and board, thus making each instance of the board less expensive, potentially smaller, and more power efficient.

Built around ATmega 2560 @ 16 MHz Massive GPIOs: 70 digital I/Os, 16 analog inputs and 4 UARTs, etc. Small form factor, 30% smaller than Arduino Mega 3.3 V and 5 V dual mode. Can be powered through a battery or through an AC to DC adaptor

BBFuino come with the ATmega328 controller, loaded with Optiboot (Arduino UNO"s bootloader), compatible with Arduino IDE and sample code, design to fit breadboard for prototyping and learning, lower down the cost by taking out the USB to UART IC, so the board has the basic component to operate.

The Crumbuino-Nano is a low-cost module comparable to the Arduino-Nano and can be used as Arduino-Nano in the Arduino-IDE. The Arduino bootloader is preloaded, hence the module is ready-to-use. The documentation shows the pin mapping of Arduino-naming to module pinout.

The Crumbuino-Mega is a low-cost module comparable to the Arduino-Mega 2560 and can be used as Arduino-Mega 2560 in the Arduino-IDE. The Arduino bootloader is preloaded, hence the module is ready-to-use. The documentation shows the pin mapping of Arduino-naming to module pinout.

A compact board with Molex connectors, aimed at environments where vibration could be an issue. DragonFly features the ATmega1280 and have all 86 I/O lines pinned out to connectors.

Freeduino USB Mega 2560, designed in India with Male headers (coming soon with Female Headers). Suitable for use in project, R&D, device and applicationsFreeduino USB Mega 2560 is a cost-effective and 100% pin and software compatible to the popular Arduino Mega 2560. Uses through hole components and has male headers.

A combination of an ATmega328P and an I²C based RGB backlit LCD interface (software compatible with the Adafruit RGB LCD shield), along with a USB serial programming interface done as a "backpack" module for the LCD.

The modified Arduino IDE allows the compiled user sketch to be uploaded onto the processor either with or without the proprietary GNSS software. NavSpark has 17 GPIO pins, which include two UARTs, 1 I²C, 1 SPI, 1 PWM, and a trigger. The first UART is usually used by the GNSS software to output NMEA 0183 data, although this can be disabled. This UART communicates over USB through a PL2303 serial converter and the transmit output is also made available on a pin. A 1 pulse per second signal is produced on a dedicated pin when a valid fix has been made.

There is a GPS-only version, a combined GPS/GLONASS version, and a GPS/Beidou version. An adaptor board adds a JST connector for a lithium-ion battery, a charger for the battery, and a microSD card slot connected to the SPI pins.

An Arduino Duemilanove compacted down to a breadboardable device (36 mm x 18 mm) that can be inserted into a standard 600 mil 28-pin socket, with USB capability, ATmega328P, and 6 onboard LEDs.

A miniature Arduino compatible board with all of the digital and analog I/O pins brought out into a single line of pins (SIP). Available as a kit, intended for use with a solderless breadboard.

SODAQ, an Arduino Compatible Solar Powered sensor board The Raspberry Pi-sized SODAQ board is built for Solar Powered Data Acquisition. It is fitted with a Lipo charge controller and 12 Grove sockets for plug and play prototyping. It runs at 3.3 V and 8 MHz. It also comes with a DS3231 Real Time Clock and 16 Mbit serial flash for data logging. Its "bee" socket can use a range of different modules, like Xbee, RFbee, Bluetoothbee and GPRSbee to make the board communicate. The latest version has the powerful ATmega1284P microcontroller with 128 KB program space and 16 KB RAM and is still Arduino IDE compatible.

Arduino compatible board designed specifically for RF mesh network experiments. It features 10 I/Os, a 10-pin ISP programming connector, a connector for a standard LCD display (in 4 bit mode) and a connector for a 2.4 GHz RF module.

Arduino Mega compatible board designed specifically for robots requiring large numbers of servos. A built in 3 A switchmode power supply allows servos to plug directly into the board. Pin spacing allows making custom shields from standard prototype board.

Teensy++ 2.0 microcontrollerA slightly more powerful version of the Teensy 2.0. It has 46 I/O pins; 8 KB RAM; 128 KB of flash; 10-bit ADC; UART, SPI, I²C, I²S, Touch and other I/O capability.

A very small board based on the Freescale MK20DX128VLH5 CPU. It has 34 I/O pins; 16 KB RAM; 128 KB of flash; 16-bit ADC; 3xUARTs, SPI, I²C, I²S, Touch and other I/O capability. Version 3.0 is not recommended for new designs.

Same form factor as Teensy 3.0. Based on the Freescale MK20DX256VLH7 CPU. It has 34 I/O pins; 64 KB RAM; 256 KB of flash; 2x16-bit ADC; 12-bit DAC; 3xUARTs, SPI, 2xI²C, I²S, CAN bus, Touch and other I/O capability. All digital pins are 5 volt tolerant. Teensy 3.2 adds a more powerful 3.3 volt regulator, with the ability to directly power ESP8266 Wi-Fi, WIZ820io Ethernet and other power-hungry 3.3 V add-on boards.

Form factor compatible with Teensy 3.0/3.1/3.2, with more pins directly available. Based on the NXP/Freescale MK64FX512VMD12 CPU. It has 58 I/O pins; 256 KB RAM; 512 KB of flash; 27 analog inputs on 2x16-bit ADC; 2x12-bit DAC; 17 timers (20 PWM outputs); 6xUARTs, 3xSPI, 3xI²C, 2xI²S, CAN bus, On-board Micro SD Card, Touch and other I/O capability. All digital pins are 5 volt tolerant.

Form factor compatible with Teensy 3.0/3.1/3.2, with more pins directly available. Based on the NXP/Freescale MK66FX1M0VMD18 CPU. It has 58 I/O pins; 256 KB RAM; 1024 KB of flash; 25 analog inputs on 2x16-bit ADC; 2x12-bit DAC; 19 timers (22 PWM outputs); 6xUARTs, 3xSPI, 3xI²C, 2xI²S, CAN bus, 2nd USB (Host mode supported); On-board Micro SD Card, Touch and other I/O capability. I/O pins are not 5 V tolerant.

The teensy 4.0 has an NXP i.MXRT1062 ARM Cortex-M7 at 600 MHz with 1024 KB RAM (512 KB is tightly coupled), 2048 KB flash (64K reserved for recovery & EEPROM emulation), two USB ports, both 480 Mbit/s, three CAN bus channels (one with CAN FD), two I²S Digital Audio, 1 S/PDIF Digital Audio, 1 SDIO (4 bit) native SD, SPI, all with 16 word FIFO, 3 I²C, all with 4 byte FIFO, 7 serial, all with 4 byte FIFO, 32 general purpose DMA channels, 31 PWM pins, 40 digital pins, all interrupt capable, 14 analog pins, 2 ADCs on chip, Cryptographic Acceleration, Random Number Generator, Pixel Processing Pipeline, Peripheral cross triggering and more in a tiny 1.4 by 0.7 inch teensy 3.0/3.1/3.2 form factor

A lower cost version of the Teensy 3.1/3.2. It has 27 I/O pins; 64 KB of flash; 12-bit DAC; 3xUARTs, 2xSPI, 2xI²C, I²S, Touch and other I/O capability. I/O pins are not 5 V tolerant. No FIFOs on serial 1 and serial2. Fewer hardware timers.

An open source enhanced Arduino-compatible board that uses an ATmega16/32/324/644 instead of an ATmega168. This provides 16/32/64 KB of flash, and 32 general I/O pins in a 40-pin DIP device.

uChip mounted on a breadboard Arduino Zero compatible, with narrow (0.3" row spacing) 16-pin DIP footprint (breadboard compatible). It features built-in buck (to power external circuitry) and boost (to power USB devices when operating as a USB host) converters and software selectable output voltage.

Pin compatible with Arduino but uses the ethernet enabled PIC microcontroller to connect to the Internet. Allows sending of email, display of javascript enabled webpages, and remote web based access and control from around the world.

32-bit MIPS-M4K PIC32MX processor boards (40-80 MHz). The Arduino libraries have been implemented natively for the PIC32MX and these kits run in a fork of the standard Arduino IDE, MPIDE

32-bit MIPS-M4K PIC32MZ processor boards (200 MHz). The Arduino libraries have been implemented natively for the PIC32MZ and these kits run in a fork of the standard Arduino IDE, MPIDE

HiFive1 boardUno form factor, 5 V and 3.3 V, 19 digital I/O (9 PWM), 0 analogue in. 16 MB QSPI flash (execute in place, with 16 KB icache), 16 KB SRAM. Arduino IDE support with 16/256/320 MHz presets and port of Arduino library. Also works with standard C/C++, stdio, GDB from the shell. Hardware multiply (4 cycles) and divide (32 cycles).

The EVAL-ADICUP3029 is an Arduino Uno form factor compatible platform based on the ultra low power ADuCM3029 32-bit ARM Cortex™-M3 microcontroller. The platform is designed to be a development and prototyping vehicle to get design ideas from concept to production with a minimal risk and faster time to market. The EVAL-ADICUP3029 is designed for IOT (Internet of Things) applications in mind, and therefore comes with on board Wi-Fi and Bluetooth 5.0 capabilities. A free version of CrossCore Embedded Studios (an Eclipse-based Analog Devices Interactive Development Environment) is supplied to the designer for debugging and application development. Add-on hardware modules, MCU drivers and software application examples help form a complete ecosystem that designers can leverage into their final product.

Chipino is an electronics prototyping platform based on a Microchip PIC microcontroller. It was designed to use the same footprint and connection scheme as the official Arduino boards to allow Arduino shields to be used with Chipino.

The PSoC 4 Pioneer Kit is a development platform enabling users to design with the ARM Cortex-M0 PSoC®4 device family. The kit features the PSoC 4200 device family as the main processor and includes a PSoC 5LP (ARM Cortex-M3 processor) to perform programming and debugging. The kit is supported using PSoC Creator, which is a free IDE for embedded development targeting the PSoC 3/4/5LP device families. In the summer of 2013 Cypress supported the kit with a 100 projects in 100 days campaign on the community forums at Element14.

Amicus18 is an embedded system platform based on PIC architecture (18F25K20). Can be programmed with any programming language, though the Amicus IDE is free and complete.

Board based on a PIC microcontroller, with native USB support and compatibility with the Arduino programming language plus an IDE built with Python and sdcc as compiler.

168 MHz Cortex-M4 (STM32F4) with up to 1,408 KB of code storage and 164 KB of RAM. On-board USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, SD card slot. Support for the .NET Micro Framework. Development environment is MS Visual Studio and C#. Pin compatible with Arduino shields although drivers are required for some shields.

72 MHz 32-bit ARM (GHI Electronics USBizi chips) micro-controller boards with support for the .NET Micro Framework. Pin compatible with Arduino shields, although drivers are required for some shields.

Breeze boards are prototyping platforms for 28-pin PIC microcontrollers. They come with a PIC18F25K22 (USB-UART interface) or PIC18F25J50 (direct USB interface), however almost any 28-pin PIC can be used with the platform.

"Arduino Blog- Arduino Mega: bigger, more powerful, still blue". Arduino.cc. 2009-03-26. Archived from the original on 2014-01-16. Retrieved 2013-01-18.

SainSmart 3.2" TFT LCD Display is a LCD touch screen module. It has 40pins interface and SD card and Flash reader design. It is a powerful and mutilfunctional module for your project.The Screen include a controller SSD1289, it"s a support 8/16bit data interface , easy to drive by many MCU like STM32 ,AVR and 8051. It is designed with a touch controller in it . The touch IC is ADS7843 , and touch interface is included in the 40 pins breakout. It is the version of product only with touch screen and touch controller.

3.2"" TFT LCD module with 40 IO, it is more than a LCD module and colleagues also includes an SD card slot, whether with touch function. (Here we are with touch screen function module)

If someone, like me, would like to solder the whole thing together and make an attachable shield on the TFT, needs a 2×20 socket strip, a breadboard and soldering tools.

The other pins of the display must be connected via the blocks. Some pins of the Pi (like MOSI, SLCK, …) are used more often, this should be considered when connecting. The connections are as follows (on the left are the pins of the Pi, on the right those of the display).

Dieses Bauteil hat mehrere Inverter. Wir benötigen nur eines davon. Zum Beispiel kannst du Pin 1 (1A) als Eingang nehmen (Ausgang von 74HC4040) und Pin 2 (1Y) als Ausgang zum Pin 5 (WR) des Displays.

sudo modprobe flexfb debug=3 width=240 height=320 regwidth=16 setaddrwin=2 init=-1,0x00,0x0001,-1,0x03,0xA8A4,-1,0x0C,0x0000,-1,0x0D,0x080C,-1,0x0E,0x2B00,-1,0x1E,0x00B7,-1,0x01,0x2B3F,-1,0x02,0x0600,-1,0x10,0x0000,-1,0x11,0x6068,-1,0x05,0x0000,-1,0x06,0x0000,-1,0x16,0xEF1C,-1,0x17,0x0003,-1,0x07,0x0233,-1,0x0B,0x0000,-1,0x0F,0x0000,-1,0x41,0x0000,-1,0x42,0x0000,-1,0x48,0x0000,-1,0x49,0x013F,-1,0x4A,0x0000,-1,0x4B,0x0000,-1,0x44,0xEF00,-1,0x45,0x0000,-1,0x46,0x013F,-1,0x30,0x0707,-1,0x31,0x0204,-1,0x32,0x0204,-1,0x33,0x0502,-1,0x34,0x0507,-1,0x35,0x0204,-1,0x36,0x0204,-1,0x37,0x0502,-1,0x3A,0x0302,-1,0x3B,0x0302,-1,0x23,0x0000,-1,0x24,0x0000,-1,0x25,0x8000,-1,0x4f,0x0000,-1,0x4e,0x0000,-1,0x22,-3

sudo modprobe ads7846_device debug=1 cs=1 speed=2000000 model=7846 swap_xy=1 x_min=300 x_max=3800 y_min=700 y_max=3400 x_plate_ohms=60 pressure_max=255 gpio_pendown=23 keep_vref_on=1

flexfb debug=3 width=240 height=320 regwidth=16 setaddrwin=2 init=-1,0x00,0x0001,-1,0x03,0xA8A4,-1,0x0C,0x0000,-1,0x0D,0x080C,-1,0x0E,0x2B00,-1,0x1E,0x00B7,-1,0x01,0x2B3F,-1,0x02,0x0600,-1,0x10,0x0000,-1,0x11,0x6068,-1,0x05,0x0000,-1,0x06,0x0000,-1,0x16,0xEF1C,-1,0x17,0x0003,-1,0x07,0x0233,-1,0x0B,0x0000,-1,0x0F,0x0000,-1,0x41,0x0000,-1,0x42,0x0000,-1,0x48,0x0000,-1,0x49,0x013F,-1,0x4A,0x0000,-1,0x4B,0x0000,-1,0x44,0xEF00,-1,0x45,0x0000,-1,0x46,0x013F,-1,0x30,0x0707,-1,0x31,0x0204,-1,0x32,0x0204,-1,0x33,0x0502,-1,0x34,0x0507,-1,0x35,0x0204,-1,0x36,0x0204,-1,0x37,0x0502,-1,0x3A,0x0302,-1,0x3B,0x0302,-1,0x23,0x0000,-1,0x24,0x0000,-1,0x25,0x8000,-1,0x4f,0x0000,-1,0x4e,0x0000,-1,0x22,-3

ads7846_device swap_xy=1 debug=1 cs=1 speed=2000000 model=7846 x_min=230 x_max=3900 y_min=200 y_max=3700 x_plate_ohms=80 pressure_max=255 gpio_pendown=23 keep_vref_on=1

These are the same commands we previously used. So if you have other GPIOs and/or settings, you should adjust them. Save and exit with CTRL + O and CTRL + X.

Some manufacturers recommend a pullups on device inputs like MISO, this is because when no device on the SPI bus has an active chip select, no one is driving the SPI MISO line so it can "flap about" at high frequency due to cross talk or sit mid way between logic levels which can cause a higher than desirable current to flow through the transisitor pair inside the input buffer. These "floating" logic lines can also cause input buffers to oscillate at very high RF frequencies (via parasitic feedback loops, often through the supply rail) which can upset sensitive electronics and cause equipment to fail CE/EMC testing.

On professional, military and Space equipment designs logic line inputs are never left floating for this reason (it degrades device reliability, leads to wasted power and can caues EMC issues) in the Arduino/experimental/howebrew electronics domain the need for pullups is often ignored as equipment failure is less hazardous/catastrophic/expensive. The "naked" Arduino"s ALL break the rules but they work because the parasitic leakage currents on the logic lines "typically" cause logic lines to drift high, but as this leakage is not a guaranteed parameter by the device manufacturer it can cause lines to drift up or down.

In some cases, like I2C the pullup resistor value is lower because typically it is the only device that can/should pull the line to a logic one and hence must pull the line "faster" so the resistance value is lower to overcome parasitic capacitance and meet the logic rise time specifications.

I figured my cheap 1.8″ TFT display is useless on an Arduinoas it pretty much eats the available memory (20K for simple sketches), so I decided to try it on my Raspberry Pi. The most appropriate way to do so is to use Kamal’smodified kernel with ST7735R support. This is the first time I ever do kernel compilation, took few tries before I got it right, the best instructions I found are these. It is important to remain on kernel 3.2.27+, so do not upgrade(see Kamal’s note in the comments sections). Read all the comments carefully; I used menuconfig to edit the .config file as one comment suggested – much more visual for beginners. I set the SPI to 8Mhz so it runs faster. I also used a MINI4x6 font so more characters would fit:

The LCD I have is not an original Adafruit, nor SainSmartbut rathercheap clone, $5 on ebay, still using the same chip. Pins are different from the above mentioned products too. I made a vero-board breakout:

The images are quite bluish, I guess I need to do some gamma correction. Please tip me off if you have any idea on how to fix that. Pictured above is my son, looking like Avatar due to this issue.