is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

2023-01-03 12:32:11

If that"s the case it should be fairly straight-forward. I"m guessing you already have the screen off; otherwise it wouldn"t have broken, so you probably know how to do that part.

Once the screen is off, you just have to remove the rear cover to get to where the LCD is plugged into the motherboard. Basically just take out a zillion screws, take off the back and flip it over. That whole procedure is shown in this video teardown; all you have to do is follow it up to about the 13:43 mark.

And of course you"ll need a replacement flex cable; you can find those all over the place; eBay, Amazon, AliExpress, etc. Here"s one of the first ones that came up on a search.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

My TG-860, with the failed ribbon cable, never was fixed. It was sent off to both Precision and KEH after both said they would try, and neither did, returning it without touching it - saying they couldn"t get parts, and/or wouldn"t install an aftermarket ribbon cable.

Out of morbid curiousity and a sense of self-flagellation, I bought some microtools, and an aftermarket ribbon cable (2 bucks from China), and tried to take my twice-decreed unfixable camera apart, only to find that one of the last screws necessary to open the body and free the camera end of the ribbon cable was frozen (while camera repairs may have dental instruments to drill such out, I do not). Whether or not Precision Camera overtorqued this, I couldn"t say, but it didn"t matter - because - the other end of the cable in the LCD flip screen - jeezus - I couldn"t figure that step out either, and removed every conceivable screw and pried on every part. Admitting defeat, I put it all back together. I actually had one part "left over", and no idea where that came from. The lesson from this is one I already knew - I am no camera repairman.

At this juncture, I went to look the closest camera in as-new condition which - after 4-5 years - turned out to take some time. To be sure, any used camera can fail 5 minutes after receipt, and whatever design flaw there is in the durability of the ribbon cable would likely appear sooner than later.

After a month or so of surfing the usual resale websites, I ended up with a used TG 870 in near mint condition at very reasonable cost (passing on many overpriced listings), sans power cord or setup CD, but this seems to work. The screen is a bit sharper and the GPS slightly faster. It is also supported by repair and parts availability as of this moment, although that will likely end in a year or so. I can only hope that Olympus, in revising the TG 860, took heed of the thousands of failed ribbons and perhaps re-engineered the ribbon cable so it lasted longer. But perhaps not - as the TG 870 was apparently the last (2016?) of the flipscreen configuration.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

baudtack wrote:ChipCzuk wrote:I have a load of boards with working screens that I"ve got waiting to be back-lit and modded. I was thinking it wouldn"t cost much to get over over to you with UK local postage.

Nice! Yeah would probably be expensive to get shipped to the states. Thanks though. Do you have anything in particular you"re watching out for to avoid the crap ones? Two of the three I"ve gotten developed horizontal lines after I"ve gotten them. The one i"m using now is pink and only has one line so it"s more annoying but still.

I just look out for listings that say they have no dead pixels or have pictures of the screen on with a game running. You might even be able to pick up a spares and repairs one even cheaper that won"t switch on (usually corroded terminals) or one with a battered case, as you already have a case or two. You can"t guarantee that they have good screens but at least they"ll be cheap and you"d have a few spare components to cover you for any modding mishaps

I certainly wouldn"t want to deter you from buying one from nonelectronics or any other site (I"ve used many of them myself) but I just thought I"d share my eBay experiences.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

As often as you use your smartphone, it’s almost inevitable that you’ll eventually drop it. You may be extremely careful, but it only takes one fumble for your phone to tumble. While iPhone screens are designed to withstand impact, you might still end up with a shattered screen.

The good news: a broken screen doesn’t mean your phone is kaput. In fact, if only the glass is broken, the fix is quick and inexpensive. The bad news: if the LCD screen is broken, you’re looking at a pricier repair.

If you’ve looked into replacement parts, you’ve likely come across two very different options: a glass screen, and an LCD screen. While the first option is cheap, the second is definitely not. Here’s the difference:

1. The glass screen is the exterior layer on your phone’s display. While it is specially engineered for durability, it’s still just glass (between layers of plastic film), which is why it’s not very pricey to replace.

Most of the time, the damage to your screen will be pretty obvious. You’ll see the spider web patterns of shattered glass across the front of your iPhone. Occasionally, however, the glass screen will be intact, and you might not realize the damage until you try to use it. Whether the damage is visible or not, it’s a good idea to run a quick diagnostic to determine the extent of it.

If you encounter any of these problems, you’re dealing with a broken LCD screen. If the glass is shattered, but the display is clear and touch capability is working, that’s a good sign. The problem is probably just the glass screen.

Whether you’re dealing with cracked glass or a broken LCD screen, you can find a quick, reliable repair service at FastPhoneRepair.com. Our qualified technicians will get your iPhone repaired and up and running again in record time and at reasonable rates.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

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is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

Graphics card failures: The Nvidia 8800 graphics cards in these machine have a manufacturing defect which leads to graphical distortion on the display and or incomplete booting through. A very big problem on these machines, which lead to an extended repair program from Apple, which didn"t fix the underlying issue. The only fix we have for these is a temporary one called a Reflow. Given the age of these machines its only really worthwhile if you have a need for an older operating system.

Screen weakness: The metal surrounds on the LCDs of these machines often break at the sides near the hinges. This was an unforeseen weakness in the design of the LCD assembly. These days this fault is not worth repairing given the age of the machine.

Drive cable failures: The cable which connects the hard drive to the logic board runs through 3 90 degree bends, and the copper inside the cable cracks and becomes brittle over time. This exhibits in the same way as a hard drive failure, and may cause a hard drive failure as well. We often recommend removing the optical drive and using a caddy to fit an SSD in the optical drive space as a way round this issue, since replacement cables are also prone to fail.

Screen weakness: The display starts to come away from the hinge area. This was an unforeseen weakness in the design of the LCD assembly where the adhesive fails. This is repairable, but the costs (around £200 + vat) are more expensive than the machine is worth.

Failure to power on: Frequently caused by a faulty capacitor on the memory power rail C7771. Some of these machines have a small capacitor which begins to short to ground. This exhibits as no power at all when pressing the power button. This is something we can repair - see our fixed cost repair service. Be aware that other things can cause these symptoms - if you bring or send the machine to us we can test for you.

Kernel Panic issues: This is a very common issue on the 15in 2010 MacBook Pros (logic board number 820-2850), often mistakenly attributed to a failed GPU or graphics chip. In fact, in most cases, the issue is with a tantalum capacitor on the logic board (C9560). This capacitor often fails and causes a slight short to ground, so when the computer switches from the integrated (Intel HD Graphics) to the dedicated (Nvidia GeForce GT 330M) GPU it causes a kernel panic. The solution is to replace the C9560 capacitor for a larger and more reliable polymer capacitor (extending the ground plane to allow fixation). We have a fixed price service to repair this fault.

Graphics card failures: Very rare (it is often the capacitor problem above), but if you get actual graphical distortion on screen it is likely that the GPU has failed. At this point logic board replacement is the only option. This is around £250 + Vat.

Graphics card failures: This is THE MOST COMMON failure of any MacBook Pro ever made. It affects almost every machine. It exhibits as graphical distortion or incomplete/cyclical booting. The fault is with one of the Graphics chips. There are lots of poor fixes out there (replacing logic board for example is pointless, re-balling is pointless as the fault always returns). As of January 2019 there is a new permanent fix where we permanently bypass the dedicated GPU. See our fixed cost repair service.

Memory slot failure This relatively rare problem exhibits as the machine booting with 3 beeps from the speakers. To identify if this is a problem with RAM or sockets it is advisable to try the modules one at a time in each socket. If the problem follows the socket not the chip then the socket is dead. As the costs of replacing the logic board are high we would recommend maxing the RAM in the one working socket (1 x 8GB single chip), and living with the dead socket.

Graphics card failures: A rare problem that causes graphical distortion on the screen or incomplete booting. Regretfully the only option here is to replace the logic board. This is expensive. Please contact us so that we can confirm the fault and quote accordingly.

Memory slot failure: This exhibits as the machine booting with 3 beeps from the speakers. In a small number of cases, one of the memory sockets fails. To identify if this is a problem with RAM or sockets it is advisable to try the modules one at a time in each socket. If the problem stays with the socket, rather than following the chip, then the socket is dead. As the costs of replacing the logic board are high, we would recommend maxing the RAM in the one working socket (1 x 8GB single chip), and living with the dead socket.

U8900 GMUX chip: A very common issue, often misidentified as a graphics card issue. Symptoms exhibit as either a black screen on boot (but the machine still chimes), or when playing a video or doing a GPU intensive task the machine will re-start and give a Kernel panic message talking about the MUX chip. The fault here is a manufacturing issue where the IC which provides power to the graphics chip develops bad connections to the logic board (due to being placed underneath a stress point). We have a fixed price fix for this issue here.

"Staingate": Delamination of the LCD panel. Nicknamed "Staingate", this is where the anti reflective coating comes off the LCD. Apple may still replace the screen for you for free. Check with them for details.

SSD failures: SSDs are much more reliable than hard drives, but they do have a failure rate. Fortunately these are replaceable. Select your Mac by entering your serial number into our site, to see the options we have for these machines.

Randomly powering off: The CPU has several power states and voltages. Some CPUs have become unstable at the extremely low voltage on one of it"s cores. The CPU will sometimes briefly dip into that power state, and if it happens to be on the core where it is unstable, you will see the "silent" crash. Screen goes black, a few seconds later it dies completely. There is an inexpensive piece of software which may resolve this issue without replacing the logic board. You can buy it from here.

Battery swelling: The batteries in these machines are more likely to swell than earlier versions. There was an extended warranty for some of the machines in this series, you can check eligibility here on the Apple website. If not we can replace the batteries for a reasonable cost.

Keyboard and trackpad stop working together: This is a common issue caused by the failure of the trackpad to logic board cable. As the keyboard and trackpad use the same systems, this exhibits as both stopping working at the same time (failure can sometime be intermittent, working for a while, but it always causes both to stop working). We have a dedicated repair service to fix this failure here.

Keyboard issues: The keyboards on these units have a lot of problems. Random keys will stop working. Apple has now acknowledged this fault, and there is an extended repair scheme for it here.

Display issues (Stage lights effect / Flexgate): This exhibits as either bright spots along the bottom of the LCD panel, or complete failure of the LCD backlight. We have a service to repair this fault here.

Keyboard issues: The keyboards on these units have a lot of problems. Random keys will stop working. We have replacement services for some models, see our keyboard repair page here.

Backlight Failure: This exhibits as the Mac not displaying anything on the screen, but still showing signs that it is booting up. It may work on an external monitor, and on older models with a white Apple logo on the lid you can shine a light through it and make out that there is an image being displayed on the screen. We have a dedicated No Fix, No Fee repair service for these faults here.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

I just replaced a shattered screen on a Microsoft Surface Pro 4. This was not only my first time replacing a Surface screen, it was my first time replacing a smart-phone or tablet screen of any sort.

I honestly didn’t watch all of these videos all the way through, and I probably didn’t watch them carefully enough either. If I had, I might have spared myself some painful “lessons learned” which left my Surface worse off than before (well, aside from the screen, which is now once again intact). In this article, I share the lessons I learned during the replacement, on the off chance that someone else might benefit from them.

Note: This isn’t a complete recipe for replacing your screen. Go watch the videos. This is just the stuff I didn’t pick up from watching the videos. Though who knows, maybe if I’d watched more carefully or paid more attention, I would have.

First, and most importantly: if you use a spudger carelessly along the top edge of the Surface (the edge with the camera), you will probably destroy your antenna assembly, and nobody sells replacements.You can see the antenna assembly in this section of the aforementioned teardown. Here’s the photo in question (click this photo and others for larger versions):

See those three windy yellowish strips, one to the left of the cameras and two to the right? They’re conductive tape which folds under the plastic and makes contact with terminals on the motherboard when the pictured part is screwed in properly. If you carefully remove the screen along the top edge by warming the adhesive with a heat gun and then carefully prying the screen away from the loosened adhesive, then hopefully you’ll be fine. However, if you chip away at the screen aggressively, e.g., because the top of your screen is shattered (as mine was) and you’re scraping pieces off bit by bit, then there’s a good chance you’ll tear the conductive tape or rip it completely off of the assembly, destroying one of the three antennae. I’m not sure why there are three, but I suspect one is for 2.4GHz WiFi, one for 5GHz WiFi, and one for BlueTooth; I don’t know which is which.

So, what can you do if you’ve found your way here too late, after ruining one or more of your antennae? Well, as I mentioned above, nobody sells replacements for this part. Microsoft refuses to sell replacement parts (lesson learned too late: that’s a damn good reason not to buy the Surface!), and it doesn’t appear that there are any third-party manufacturers of this part. You’re not the only one with this problem. So the way I see it, you have five other options:

Make do with whatever bits of antenna are left over. It’s possible you’ll still get some signal, though your range and speeds will be greatly diminished.

Buy a broken Surface Pro 4 on eBay and cannibalize the part from it; the odds are that this will be cheaper than having Microsoft fix the damage even if they are willing to, and it will certainly be a lot cheaper than buying a new Surface.

I started by laying down some 5mm double-sided tape (the same tape I would be using later to mount the replacement screen) on a piece of heavy-duty foil:

If you look carefully you can see that there’s a little hole on the left that it appears the antenna is supposed to avoid covering, so I did. There’s another hole like that on the right, though it’s hard to see that one in the photo.

Now I’ll be honest with you… I don’t know if this aluminum foil antenna actually works. For all I know it’s a complete dud. I mean, WiFi is working in the Surface (though not all that well), but for all I know, maybe that’s because the WiFi actually uses one of the other antennae. But hey, desperate times call fo desperate measures, and it was either this or spend a minimum of hundreds of dollars to fix or replace the Surface.

I suppose theoretically you could also use conductive ink or paint to “draw” a replacement antenna onto the assembly, though I didn’t try that and I’m not sure how well it would work (of course, I’m not sure my foil antenna is working either, so yay!).

The speaker output slots are along the left and right edge of the Surface near the upper corners. If you look carefully at the screen before removing it, you will see that the screen glass is slightly indented to expose the slots. When you’re removing the screen, try not to use the spudger too aggressively here, or you’ll scrape the black cover off of the slot. This is probably just cosmetic, but still, no reason to damage it if you don’t have to.

You have presumably learned from watching the videos (you did watch the videos, right?) that you need to remove the logic board from the corner of your old screen and tape it to the same location on the new screen, because replacement screens don’t come with the logic board. When you’re taping down the logic board, make sure it’s all the way in the corner of the LCD, as shown here. Otherwise, it’ll press against the internals of the Surface when you go to tape down the new screen, and the screen will bulge there.

When you’re connecting the two ribbon cables from the new screen to the logic board, you need to make sure the cables are in all the way, as far as they can go. If they aren’t, your touch screen won’t work.

After reconnecting everything, test the screen before taping it down. Why? Well, for example, you don’t want to discover after taping down the new screen that you didn’t push the ribbon cables in far enough!

I used 5mm double-sided tape to tape down the screen. Unfortunately, much of the circumference of the Surface is too narrow for 5mm tape. I ended up cutting strips of tape in half lengthwise to compensate for this. If I have to do this again I’ll probably order 2mm double-sided tape to make the process faster and easier.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

Has your TV screen gone black and you’re not sure what to do? A broken or cracked TV screen doesn’t necessarily mean you need to buy a new television. In some instances, you could repair the broken TV screen yourself. However, you have come to the right place if you are looking for a guide on how to fix or repair a broken or cracked TV screen.

Before you attempt to fix a broken or cracked TV screen, it’s important to note that the cost of repairing your TV might be close to or higher than the cost of buying a new one. It also might not be possible to completely fix the screen, in which case you’ll still see a broken image on your TV.

Before making any repairs, you should check whether your warranty will cover the cost of having someone else fix it. This is particularly important if you purchased an extended warranty since you might be able to get a free repair.

Tiny, narrow hairline cracks called “spiderweb cracks” that don’t completely shatter the screen are often repairable, mainly because they typically indicate that the components haven’t been damaged.

On the other hand, large cracks that run from one side of the screen to the other are usually irreparable. This is because they typically mean that the LCD panel has been shattered and will need to be replaced, which is usually not worth the cost.

If you have a Plasma TV, it’s important to note that these screens can’t be repaired – you’ll need to replace the entire television if the screen is broken or cracked.

Different types of cracks can cause different amounts of functional impact on your TV. However, note that in most cases, it’s not possible to completely repair a cracked screen – you’ll likely still see the crack even after making repairs.

Shallow hairline cracks are thin lines that run across your screen, possibly interfering with your vision while watching TV. These cracks typically indicate that the glass screen has been shattered, but the LCD panel is still intact.

You can quickly repair a shallow hairline crack on the screen’s surface. Cracks that penetrate the inner surface of the screen cause issues. If so, you must replace the TV screen.

It’s possible that the tiny crack didn’t form as a result of an accident or mishap but rather formed on its own. This is often caused by the screen’s material expanding or contracting due to extreme changes in temperature.

Spiderweb cracks are tiny screen cracks that emanate from a central point, creating a web-like pattern. These cracks typically result from accidentally hitting your screen or dropping your TV. Due to the fragile nature of the screen, it shatters like glass when cracked.

Given the expensive nature of TV screens, it might be more cost-effective to replace your television entirely rather than replacing the broken screen.Horizontal or Vertical Lines

If you see horizontal or vertical lines running through your screen, this means that the ribbon cable connecting the LCD panel to the driver board has become loose.

This can lead to an unpleasant viewing experience since the lines divide the screen in two, one of which is blacked out while the other displays the image.

If you have horizontal or vertical lines running through your screen, check the screen for scratches by rubbing your palm over it. However, if there are no scratches, the ribbon cable is probably loose and needs to be reconnected.

Most people mistake dead pixels for cracks, but they’re not. A dead pixel occurs when your screen is fixated on a single color or when many bright colors are present.

To revive the dead pixel, get a damp cloth, wrap a pencil with the cloth, and gently press on the dead pixel for a few seconds. You can also try using a Q-tip if you don’t have a pencil.Scratches

You can try to gently wipe away any small scratches with a clean, non-abrasive piece of cloth if they are minor. If there are any sharp edges or pieces of shattered glass on the scratch, be careful not to cut yourself.

For bigger scratches, you can try using a small amount of toothpaste (not gel) on a clean, non-abrasive cloth. Thoroughly rub the toothpaste in a round motion over the scratch. Rinse the area and then dry it off.

While we talked about how a broken or cracked TV screen is unfixable in the majority of cases, there are a few cases where a broken screen can be fixed without having to replace the entire TV.

Isopropyl alcohol isn’t just for first-aid anymore, you can use it to temporarily fix a broken TV screen as well. The rubbing alcohol will help hold the shattered glass in place, preventing any further cracking.

You should use 12 parts water to 1 part alcohol to dilute the alcohol. Then, gently clean the scratch with a cotton cloth soaked in the diluted alcohol.

After letting the solution rest on the crack for a few minutes, use a different fiber cloth soaked in water to remove the alcohol. After doing this, the crack should be less visible.Petroleum Jelly

Petroleum jelly is another household staple that can be used to fix a broken TV screen. Using the jelly, the broken glass will be held together to prevent it from spreading.

To repair a scratched surface, clean it off with a microfiber cloth, then fill in any visible cracks with petroleum jelly. After letting the jelly rest on the surface, wipe up any residual jelly using a clean cloth. That should eliminate the scratches.

Sounds crazy, right? But a pencil eraser can actually help fix a broken TV screen. Just like the other two methods, the pencil eraser will help to hold the broken glass together and prevent the crack from spreading.

Start with wiping the area down using a damp cloth, and then use an eraser to clear the cracks. To prevent further damage to the screen, make sure to be gentle when using the eraser.Screen Repair Kit

The kits include a solution or paste with a cloth and detailed instructions for doing the essential screen routine maintenance. Most TVs come with a one-time use kit, so if you have more than one broken screen, you’ll need to buy an additional kit.Hire a Professional

If you have a broken or cracked TV screen and are not comfortable trying to fix it yourself, you can always hire a professional. Search for a tech repair company in your area that specializes in repairing broken TV screens.

Keep in mind that hiring a professional to fix your broken screen will likely be more expensive than buying a new TV. Unless you have an expensive, high-end TV, it’s usually not worth spending the money to repair a broken screen.

First, prices may differ depending on how big your TV screen is and if it can be set or has to be replaced. A 40″ LED TV screen, for example, may cost $200 to fix, while a 60″ LED TV screen of the same make and model could cost up to $400.

Second, the price may also differ depending on the damage’s severity. If only one pixel is broken, it may be cheaper to repair than if the entire screen is shattered.

A third factor that may affect the price is choosing whether to hire an expert or do it yourself. If you hire a professional, you can expect to pay anywhere from $75 to $200 per hour for labor, plus the cost of parts.

Finally, keep in mind that the price of repairing your broken TV screen may not be worth it in the long run. In many cases, it’s cheaper to just buy a new TV than it is to fix a broken or cracked one. So make sure to weigh your options carefully before making a decision.

No one likes a broken or cracked TV screen, but fortunately, you can fix it in multiple ways. Whether you use tape, petroleum jelly, or a screen repair kit, there’s a method out there that will work for you.

is an lcd panel with a broken ribbon cable unfixable free sample

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