how to test lcd display 16x2 free sample

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In this Arduino tutorial we will learn how to connect and use an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display)with Arduino. LCD displays like these are very popular and broadly used in many electronics projects because they are great for displaying simple information, like sensors data, while being very affordable.

You can watch the following video or read the written tutorial below. It includes everything you need to know about using an LCD character display with Arduino, such as, LCD pinout, wiring diagram and several example codes.

An LCD character display is a unique type of display that can only output individual ASCII characters with fixed size. Using these individual characters then we can form a text.

If we take a closer look at the display we can notice that there are small rectangular areas composed of 5×8 pixels grid. Each pixel can light up individually, and so we can generate characters within each grid.

The number of the rectangular areas define the size of the LCD. The most popular LCD is the 16×2 LCD, which has two rows with 16 rectangular areas or characters. Of course, there are other sizes like 16×1, 16×4, 20×4 and so on, but they all work on the same principle. Also, these LCDs can have different background and text color.

It has 16 pins and the first one from left to right is the Groundpin. The second pin is the VCCwhich we connect the 5 volts pin on the Arduino Board. Next is the Vo pin on which we can attach a potentiometer for controlling the contrast of the display.

Next, The RSpin or register select pin is used for selecting whether we will send commands or data to the LCD. For example if the RS pin is set on low state or zero volts, then we are sending commands to the LCD like: set the cursor to a specific location, clear the display, turn off the display and so on. And when RS pin is set on High state or 5 volts we are sending data or characters to the LCD.

Next comes the R/W pin which selects the mode whether we will read or write to the LCD. Here the write mode is obvious and it is used for writing or sending commands and data to the LCD. The read mode is used by the LCD itself when executing the program which we don’t have a need to discuss about it in this tutorial.

Next is the E pin which enables the writing to the registers, or the next 8 data pins from D0 to D7. So through this pins we are sending the 8 bits data when we are writing to the registers or for example if we want to see the latter uppercase A on the display we will send 0100 0001 to the registers according to the ASCII table. The last two pins A and K, or anode and cathode are for the LED back light.

After all we don’t have to worry much about how the LCD works, as the Liquid Crystal Library takes care for almost everything. From the Arduino’s official website you can find and see the functions of the library which enable easy use of the LCD. We can use the Library in 4 or 8 bit mode. In this tutorial we will use it in 4 bit mode, or we will just use 4 of the 8 data pins.

We will use just 6 digital input pins from the Arduino Board. The LCD’s registers from D4 to D7 will be connected to Arduino’s digital pins from 4 to 7. The Enable pin will be connected to pin number 2 and the RS pin will be connected to pin number 1. The R/W pin will be connected to Ground and theVo pin will be connected to the potentiometer middle pin.

We can adjust the contrast of the LCD by adjusting the voltage input at the Vo pin. We are using a potentiometer because in that way we can easily fine tune the contrast, by adjusting input voltage from 0 to 5V.

Yes, in case we don’t have a potentiometer, we can still adjust the LCD contrast by using a voltage divider made out of two resistors. Using the voltage divider we need to set the voltage value between 0 and 5V in order to get a good contrast on the display. I found that voltage of around 1V worked worked great for my LCD. I used 1K and 220 ohm resistor to get a good contrast.

There’s also another way of adjusting the LCD contrast, and that’s by supplying a PWM signal from the Arduino to the Vo pin of the LCD. We can connect the Vo pin to any Arduino PWM capable pin, and in the setup section, we can use the following line of code:

It will generate PWM signal at pin D11, with value of 100 out of 255, which translated into voltage from 0 to 5V, it will be around 2V input at the Vo LCD pin.

First thing we need to do is it insert the Liquid Crystal Library. We can do that like this: Sketch > Include Library > Liquid Crystal. Then we have to create an LC object. The parameters of this object should be the numbers of the Digital Input pins of the Arduino Board respectively to the LCD’s pins as follow: (RS, Enable, D4, D5, D6, D7). In the setup we have to initialize the interface to the LCD and specify the dimensions of the display using the begin()function.

The cursor() function is used for displaying underscore cursor and the noCursor() function for turning off. Using the clear() function we can clear the LCD screen.

In case we have a text with length greater than 16 characters, we can scroll the text using the scrollDisplayLeft() orscrollDisplayRight() function from the LiquidCrystal library.

We can choose whether the text will scroll left or right, using the scrollDisplayLeft() orscrollDisplayRight() functions. With the delay() function we can set the scrolling speed.

The first parameter in this function is a number between 0 and 7, or we have to reserve one of the 8 supported custom characters. The second parameter is the name of the array of bytes.

So, we have covered pretty much everything we need to know about using an LCD with Arduino. These LCD Character displays are really handy for displaying information for many electronics project. In the examples above I used 16×2 LCD, but the same working principle applies for any other size of these character displays.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and learned something new. Feel free to ask any question in the comments section below and don’t forget to check out my full collection of 30+ Arduino Projects.

We come across Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) displays everywhere around us. Computers, calculators, television sets, mobile phones, and digital watches use some kind of display to display the time.

An LCD screen is an electronic display module that uses liquid crystal to produce a visible image. The 16×2 LCD display is a very basic module commonly used in DIYs and circuits. The 16×2 translates a display of 16 characters per line in 2 such lines. In this LCD, each character is displayed in a 5×7 pixel matrix.

Contrast adjustment; the best way is to use a variable resistor such as a potentiometer. The output of the potentiometer is connected to this pin. Rotate the potentiometer knob forward and backward to adjust the LCD contrast.

Sends data to data pins when a high to low pulse is given; Extra voltage push is required to execute the instruction and EN(enable) signal is used for this purpose. Usually, we set en=0, when we want to execute the instruction we make it high en=1 for some milliseconds. After this we again make it ground that is, en=0.

A 16X2 LCD has two registers, namely, command and data. The register select is used to switch from one register to other. RS=0 for the command register, whereas RS=1 for the data register.

Command Register: The command register stores the command instructions given to the LCD. A command is an instruction given to an LCD to do a predefined task. Examples like:

Data Register: The data register stores the data to be displayed on the LCD. The data is the ASCII value of the character to be displayed on the LCD. When we send data to LCD, it goes to the data register and is processed there. When RS=1, the data register is selected.

Generating custom characters on LCD is not very hard. It requires knowledge about the custom-generated random access memory (CG-RAM) of the LCD and the LCD chip controller. Most LCDs contain a Hitachi HD4478 controller.

CG-RAM is the main component in making custom characters. It stores the custom characters once declared in the code. CG-RAM size is 64 bytes providing the option of creating eight characters at a time. Each character is eight bytes in size.

CG-RAM address starts from 0x40 (Hexadecimal) or 64 in decimal. We can generate custom characters at these addresses. Once we generate our characters at these addresses, we can print them by just sending commands to the LCD. Character addresses and printing commands are below.

LCD modules are very important in many Arduino-based embedded system designs to improve the user interface of the system. Interfacing with Arduino gives the programmer more freedom to customize the code easily. Any cost-effective Arduino board, a 16X2 character LCD display, jumper wires, and a breadboard are sufficient enough to build the circuit. The interfacing of Arduino to LCD display is below.

The combination of an LCD and Arduino yields several projects, the most simple one being LCD to display the LED brightness. All we need for this circuit is an LCD, Arduino, breadboard, a resistor, potentiometer, LED, and some jumper cables. The circuit connections are below.

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The Serial LCD Kit includes all the parts you need to add a serial "backpack" to a 16x2 LCD. The kit includes a pre-programmed ATmega328 microprocessor, which reads a serial stream of data and (after a little heavy-lifting) instantly displays it on the LCD. Interfacing the Serial LCD with an Arduino, or other serial-enabled devices, allows you to easily print GPS coordinates, short messages or any other information onto the LCD.

This tutorial will cover everything you need to know to get up and running with the Serial Enabled LCD Kit. We"ll first go over assembly so you can turn that bag-o-parts into something that hopefully resembles any pictures you may have seen of the kit.

Following assembly, we"ll touch on how to actually use the Serial LCD Kit. Specifically, we"ll go over how you"d use the thing with everybody"s favorite development board, Arduino. There"ll be example code galore, and you can even make your own LCD clock! It"s gonna be pretty crazy...

At a minimum, the required toolsfor assembly are a really basic soldering iron, a bit of solder, and some cutters. In addition to those tools, other items you might find helpful include needle nose pliers, and perhaps a third hand, or vise, to keep everything nice and stable.

Finally, you"ll need something to send a serial stream of data to the display. An Arduino works great (any variety, this isn"t limited to the Uno) if you want to automate the serial data stream. FTDI breakouts or RS-232 level shifters work if you just want to connect the display to your computer and send data via a terminal program. For what it"s worth, this tutorial will focus on connecting the display to an Arduino.

The goal of the Serial LCD Kit is to make controlling an LCD simple and to make wiring to it even simpler. If you wanted, you could abstain from using the serial backpack and wire an Arduino directly up to the LCD. To that point, there are loads of great examples, and even some Arduino libraries, that make interfacing a microcontroller directly to an LCD very easy. However, because the LCD is driven by a parallel interface, those examples require a tangle of wires and anywhere from 6 to 11 pins of the Arduino to control the thing.

The microcontroller on the Serial LCD Kit takes care of all of that nasty wiring, so you only need one pin to control the LCD. The Serial LCD"s on-board microcontroller parses any incoming commands or characters, and then sends the proper data to the LCD over the multi-wire parallel interface. It"s a magic black box, and you don"t have to care how it does its job, just that it does it. So let"s get it built...

What you"ve got in front of you right now is not yet a Serial LCD Kit. First, we"ve got to turn that bag of parts into a Serial LCD Kit, which will require soldering. If you"ve never soldered before, don"t fret! This is one of the easier soldering projects, every part is through-hole, and well-spaced. If this is your first time though, I"d encourage you to take a trip over to one of our excellent soldering tutorials before picking up the iron.

First, pick out the big, ferrari-red PCB. See how one side has white silkscreen printed onto it? This is the top of the PCB. You"ll stick almost every part in on this side and solder the pins to the opposite side. The only time we"ll stray from that is when soldering the LCD, which is the last step.

We"ll solder the lowest-profile parts first, so single out that little 10kΩ resistor. Bend it into a "U" shape and guide the two legs through their mating holes. Now just flip the board over and solder both legs to the bottom of the PCB. If the resistor keeps falling out before you can get it good and soldered, bend the legs out a little bit to better secure it. Try to keep the part as flush as possible with the PCB. After soldering, make sure you clip the excess of the legs as close to the solder joint as possible.

Next, find all four of the yellow ceramic capacitors, and separate them by their 3-digit code. “104” means 0.1uF, while “220” signifies 22pF. Don"t mix these up. Stick the caps into their corresponding, rectangular footprint, flip over the board and solder up both legs. Clip the excess legs. Follow the same process for the white, three-pin JST connector, and the silver, oval crystal.

Pick out the 10uF electrolytic capacitor. It"s a little black, can-looking part. Before plugging it into the board, notice that one of the legs is shorter than the other. Whenever you see this asymmetry, consider it an alert that the part is polarized, which means, in order for the part to work correctly, you have to assemble it in a very specific direction. In this case, the shorter leg signifies the negative pin of the capacitor. If you look closely at this capacitor"s landing spot on the PCB, you"ll notice an inviting white dash which marks the negative pin. Match up the negatives and follow the same soldering/clipping process as usual.

The transistoris also polarized, though all the legs are the same length. This time notice that the package comes in something of a half-circle shape. Pretend you"re plugging a half-circle peg into a half-circle hole, and match up the flat edge of the transistor, with the flat edge printed on the PCB. Solder it just like usual, and work those clippers.

Last, you"ll do up the big, blue trimpot. This part"s polarized, although it"d work either way. You might as well match up the part to the footprint on the board, though. There"s a couple notches on one side of the pot that you can match up to the board. Solder, clip, and dance! You"re done.

Wait...something"s missing...oh, hi LCD! To connect the LCD to the PCB, we"ve included a straight 16-pin header with the kit. You"ll need to solder this header to both the PCB and the LCD. Solder it first to the LCD, stick the shorter pins into the LCD. Make sure the longer legs are extended out from the back of the LCD and solder all 16-pins on the top side of the LCD. Effort to keep the pins as perpendicular to the LCD as possible.

With the header soldered to the LCD,you"ll finally be able to connect the display to the PCB. Remember, we"re sticking this part into the bottom side of the PCB, and soldering to the top. Solder up all 16 pins, and that should be it.

Before you can display anything on the LCD, you"ll have to connect something to it. Only three wires are necessary to use the Serial LCD Kit: RX, GND and VCC. Plug the included 3-wire jumper cable into its mating JST connector that you soldered onto the PCB. This color coded cable has two wires for power, and one for receiving serial data. The red and black wires correspond to +5V and GND, respectively, and the yellow wire is RX.

You"ll need to figure out how you"re going to powerthe LCD Kit. It doesn"t have a regulator on-board, so it"s up to you to supply a clean, regulated 5V power source. If you"re using an Arduino, you could power the Kit off of the 5V and GND pins – connect red to 5V and black to GND. Otherwise, there"s a ton of options out there for power; you could use a USB adapter, a 5V wall-wart, a breadboard power supply. The list just goes on. Just make sure you"re not supplying any more than 5V (a little less may work, but you"ll lose some brightness).

After powering the Serial LCD Kit, you should notice the backlight turn on. If the contrast is properly adjusted, you might see the splash screen flash for a second or two. Most likely though, the contrast won"t be set correctly, so you won"t see a splash screen. In that case, you may see anything from 32 white boxes to absolutely nothing. You"ll have to be quick about it, because the splash screen only remains for a couple seconds before going blank, but try turning the trimpot knob until you"ve got a good view of the characters on the LCD.

The "Serial" in the Serial LCD Kit can be a little confusing. What it really means is TTL serial, not to be confused with RS-232 serial. The voltage on the RX line should only go between 0 and +5V. If you"re using a microcontroller (like an Arduino) to talk with the LCD, then you most likely don"t have to worry. Just don"t hook up a PC"s serial port straight to the LCD and expect it to survive.

There"s a lot of components that are capable of sending TTL serial data. The most popular here at SparkFun are USB-to-Serial boards (like the FTDI Basic Breakout), or an Arduino. This tutorial is going to assume you have an Arduino for the next few examples. No Arduino? That"s cool. I get it; you"re not gonna conform to this passing fad. Feel free to read on, and try to port these examples to your platform.

Connect the Arduino to the Serial LCD as follows. If you have a wire stripper, you may want to expose a few millimeters more of wire to allow them to stick really nicely into the Arduino"s headers.

Here"s a simple example sketch, which uses the SoftwareSerial library (which is included with recent versions of Arduino) to instill our Arduino with more than just the one, hardware, serial port. Now we can use the hardware serial port to listen to the serial monitor, and the second serial port can be used to talk to the LCD.

Now, plug in your Arduino and upload the code. Open up the serial monitor, and make sure it"s set to 9600. Type “Hello, world” into the serial monitor and send it over to the Arduino. The LCD should echo your greeting. Take the LCD for a test drive, discover all the characters it can display!

You"ll quickly notice, that the code is severely lacking any sort of clear display command, but don"t think for a second that the Serial LCD Kit doesn"t have a clear display command. It"s got commands up the wazoo! The Serial LCD Kit is set up to accept commands that control the backlight, baud rate, and all sorts of display functionality, like clearing the screen. Have a look at the Kit"s “datasheet”, which lists all of the characters and commands you can send to the display. I wrote that, but I understand if it"s all gobbledygook to you right now.

The commands are divided into three groups: backlight, baud rate, and special commands. Each command requires that you send at least two bytes to the display. For instance to set the backlight, you first have to send the backlight control byte (0x80, or decimal 128) followed by a byte with any value from 0 to 255. Sending a 0 will turn the backlight completely off, 255 will turn it all the way on, 127 will set it to about 50%, and so on. The backlight setting is stored in the Serial LCD Kit"s memory and will be restored when the LCD is turned off and on.

What we really care about right now, though, is clearing the display, which requires a special command. To issue a special command to the LCD, you first have to send 0xFE (or decimal 254) which tells the display to go into special command mode, and wait for a data byte. The clear display command is 0x01 (or decimal 1), that command should be sent immediately after sending the special command byte. So to clear the display we need to send two bytes: 254 (0xFE) followed by 1 (0x01). Check out the datasheet link for all of the special commands. You can do all sorts of fun stuff: scroll the display, turn it on/off and control the cursor.

Our next piece of example code, Serial_LCD_Kit_Clock, delves into sending special commands to the LCD with an Arduino. There are individual functions that clear the display (clearDisplay()), set the backlight (setBacklight(byte brightness)), and set the cursor (setLCDCursor(byte cursor_position)), feel free to copy these and add them to any code you"d like.

The code sets up a digital clock. If you want it to be accurate, you have to set the time in the variables above before uploading the code to the Arduino. The same hookup as before should do.

This is a good start, but there"s plenty of room for growth. Try adjusting the brightness of the display based on what time it was. Make it the brightest at midnight, dimmest at noon. What else can you do with the code?

Now then, that should be enough to get you on your way to using the Serial LCD Kit with a serial interface. If you"re happy with that, and don"t want your mind blown, I suggest you stop reading here.

Oh, you"ve taken the red pill? Well then you get to learn the Serial LCD Kit"s very deep, dark secret. It may not look anything like one, but the LCD Kit is actually Arduino-compatible. It has an ATmega328, just like the Arduino, and that ATmega328 has a serial bootloader, just like an Arduino. It can be programmed via a USB-to-Serial board. This means you can hook up all sorts of sensors, blinkies and other I/O to the Kit itself, while continuing to use the LCD to display any info you"d like. The 6-pin serial programming port on the right hand side of the PCB can be connected to an FTDI Basic Breakout.

With the FTDI board connected, and Arduino open, simply select the corresponding COM port in the Tools>Serial Port menu, and select Arduino Duemilanove or Nano w/ ATmega328 under the Tools>Boards menu. Though it probably won"t look like it"s doing anything, try uploading Blink, change the LED pin to 9 to at least see the backlight of the LCD flick on and off. Remember, you can download the Serial LCD Kit firmware here. If you ever want to turn it back into a Serial LCD, upload it to the LCD like you would any sketch.

If you want to be really adventurous, and get the most out of the Serial LCD Kit, I"d recommend first taking a trip over to where the Serial LCD Kit"s source code is hosted and getting a good idea how the code works. That firmware is written as an Arduino sketch, and uses a great little Arduino library named LiquidCrystal to control the LCD. The LiquidCrystal library makes controlling the LCD with an Arduino super-simple.

You should also get a good feeling for the kit"s schematic. There are a few Arduino pins that can only be used with the LCD (4-9), but pins 10-13, and all of the analog pins can be used with any device you"d normally connect to an Arduino. The available pins are all broken out on the bottom of the PCB.

Remember, this part is all very extracurricular. Don"t feel at all required to use your Serial LCD Kit as an Arduino. I just wanted to let you know what"s possible with this kit.

Serial LCD Clock Example Sketch - Displays a digital clock on the Serial LCD. This is a good example of how to use special commands, like clear, with the display.

Now I"ll leave you and your Serial LCD Kit in peace. I hope you"ve learned a good amount about the display. I also hope you"re left with questions and ideas about what you"re going to do with it next. If you"ve still got questions about the display, or comments about the tutorial, please drop them in the comments box below or email us.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to interface ESP32 with an LCD display 16×2 without I2C. It can be useful in some projects, however, it’s not very common, due to the GPIO pins it does consume. But it’s going to be a good starting point if you’re new to Alphanumeric LCDs in general or just want to use the generic Arduino LiquidCrystal display library.

You can either get the complete course kit for this series of tutorials using the link down below. Or just refer to the table for the exact components to be used in practical LABs for only this specific tutorial.

Alphanumeric LCD 16×2 display units are the most common and easiest solutions to get some data out of your microcontroller to the world to visually see. It’s a very cheap, easy to use, and reliable option to display strings of text/numbers to your system’s users.

The only downside to using the bare 16×2 LCD display is that it requires 6 dedicated GPIO pins of your microcontroller. In the case of our ESP32, it can be really annoying to lose 6 GPIO pins for adding only 1 LCD module to the project. However, in some projects, it can be a good option in case you don’t need the extra GPIO pins anyway.

The second most commonly preferred option is by using the I2C module with your LCD. This will reduce the GPIO pins requirement down to only 2 pins (the I2C pins SDA & SCL). Not only that, actually the 2 pins of that I2C bus can still access so many other I2C devices on the exact same bus.

You can end up having maybe 5 LCDs connected to your microcontroller using only 2 pins If you’re using that I2C module. But it’s the topic of the next tutorial. For this tutorial, we’ll be doing bare LCD interfacing in a classic way without an I2C IO expansion module.

This is the pinout for a typical LCD 16×2 display unit. It’s got 8 data lines (you can use only 4 of them or all of the 8). And remember that it needs to be powered from a +5v source despite the fact that our ESP32 is a 3.3v microcontroller device. This requirement is only for the power supply pins, not the data lines.

There are two ways to interface the LCD diver (controller) IC. You can use the full bus width (8-Bits) for data or alternatively you can use a 4-Bit interface for a reduced pin count needed to control the LCD. Specifically low pin count MCUs need to operate in the 4-Bit mode. And it’s the case for our ESP32 which has limited resources in terms of GPIO pin count.

The differences between 8-Bit mode and 4-Bit mode are that in the 8-Bit mode you’re operating the LCD at the full speed. While in 4-Bit mode, you send each data byte or command in two consecutive cycles instead of one. The other difference is the initialization routine steps. This is detailed in the full LCD article linked below.

If you’re interested in learning more about the LCD display, how it works, how does the LCD driver IC work (the circular black thing on the back), its internal registers, and more. Then, you should check outthis tutorial linked down below.

In that tutorial, we’ll be scrolling through the LCD driver datasheet, learning how it works, how to write a driver firmware library for it, and build our own library in Embedded-C with PIC microcontrollers from scratch and test it out in a couple of LABs.

In this section, I’ll give you a brief description of the LiquidCrystal library that we’ll be using in this tutorial. And it’s basic API functions to initialize and write some text on any LCD. We’ll be using the generic LiquidCrystal library (not the I2C version) which is similar to any other Arduino LCD example code you’ve seen online.

The Arduino LiquidCrystal library gives you all the functionalities that you’d need from an LCD driver and it’s very easy to use in your projects. Here are the exact steps you need to follow in order to initialize and write to an LCD in your project code (in Arduino IDE).

Step2– Create an LCD object. In which you’ll define the GPIO pins to be used for the various LCD signals (6 pins). This is done in code as shown below

Step3– Now, you need to initialize the LCD in the Setup function, and it’s better to clear the display to make sure there are no random characters on the visible display. In this step, you also define the number of rows and columns for your display. There are many versions of this LCD display not only 16×2, there are 16×4, 20×4, and maybe others.

Step4– Now, our LCD is properly initialized and ready for displaying any data or executing any commands. To write something on the LCD you can use the LCD_object.print() function. As you can see in the example code down below

We use the LCD_object.setCursor() function to set the cursor position, so the next LCD write operation occurs exactly at that location. And that’s it! Here is how it looks like in real-life testing.

The diagram down below shows you the connection between ESP32 and the LCD 16×2 display (in 4-Bit data mode). Note that the LCD requires a +5v supply and the ESP32 is a 3.3v board, however, it’s got the USB Vbus available on the Vin pin. So, we’ll be using the Vin pin as a +5v source (it’s measured to be 4.7v but it’s sufficient indeed).

The 10k potentiometer here is used to control the Contrast of the display. Try adjusting the contrast level by turning this pot right and left for best visibility depending on the ambient light condition in the room you’re testing in.

*Affiliate Disclosure: When you click on links in this section and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network (EPN) and Amazon.com, Banggood.com. This may be one of the ways to support this free platform while getting your regular electronic parts orders as usual at no extra cost to you.

The code example down below does the following: We start with including the LiquidCrystal library, then create an LCD object and initialize it. Then, we’ll write to the home position “Hello World!”, and move the cursor to the middle of the 2nd row and write “GG izi”. And nothing to be done in the main loop() function.

Choose the board, COM port, hold down the BOOT button, click upload and keep your finger on the BOOT button pressed. When the Arduino IDE starts sending the code, you can release the button and wait for the flashing process to be completed. Now, the ESP32 is flashed with the new firmware.

The LCD display’s controller (Hitachi HD44780) supports up to 8 custom characters that you can create and store on the LCD itself. Then you can send the Index of each custom character to be displayed later. Maybe 8 custom characters are not enough for your project, but it’s one little extra feature that you can occasionally use.

Those are some of the other functions available in the LiquidCrystal library that you may need to use in other projects. And check out the Arduino official reference for this library.

You can also check the ESP32 Course Home Page