anet a8 lcd panel manufacturer

3. Check if it"s the issue of mainboard or lcd screen. Press the "Reset" button on the mainboard, and see if the D1 lights up on the mainboard. If the D1 indicator doesn"t lights on, it"s the mainboard that broken and need to change.

If your Anet A8 screen shows white blocks after power up, reconnect all the cables. If still not work, click the "RESET" on the mainboard. If still doesn"t work, you need to change for a new motherboard.

. was founded in 2015 and has since grown to become a leading 3D printer manufacturer. In 2019, we launched six new models, more followed in 2020. 6 modernized production lines with over 200 well-trained staff allow for a monthly capacity of 30,000 units. We have an effective after-sales service system and after-sales service centers all over the world to serve our customers. Anet 3D products have been sold in over 70 countries across the globe. Our expert R&D team and after-sales support team ensure that products are of the highest quality and that customers get the best service possible. Every season, we will create a new form of 3D printer.

Anet A8 is a pretty famous DIY FDM 3D printer from a Chinese manufacturer Anet 3D. This machine became one of the first affordable printers on the market, quickly becoming a choice for many newcomers. Despite being released a long time ago, Anet A8 is still on the market surprisingly withstanding competition from newer machines. Is it worth purchasing though? Let’s find out.

When Anet A8 first appeared on the market, a lot of enthusiasts purchased it thanks to the affordable cost of the kit. However, the low machine price was achieved due to cutting corners here and there resulting in first versions not only requiring a lot of upgrades and attention but sometimes being downright unsafe. The main concerning factor at the time was the power cord issue causing a fire hazard, which is in combination low-quality motherboard and unstable printing bed turned some users off the Anet A8. Additionally, when purchasing the kit from Chinese suppliers and resellers, some people ended with a different model, A6, falsely advertised as A8.

The information in regards to all troubles with A8 is easy to find and access, though, people still purchase this kit. And many are able to get pretty decent prints with it as well. Anet A8, undoubtedly, requires love from the very first day of buying it. Starting from building the printer from scratch through a bit messy videos from the manufacturer to making upgrades to accommodate for a wobbly frame. In no way this is ready from the box printer.

But there are bright sides to Anet A8. The manufacturer was quick to make changes to the printer resolving some issues from the first versions. That includes upgrading to an aluminum plate under a heating bed (which was acrylic and prone to warping) with metal rails on two sides. Additionally, later orders included a different motherboard and had changes to power cords and supply (though still no “off” button). These changes went unannounced and have no special mark on the printer’s model, however, by default A8 machines now are shipped with these newer parts. And the price for Anet A8 kit dropped even lower.

One of the great advantages of A8 is being an open system, meaning that with a bit of work the printer can be adjusted to preferences or needs in terms of software and structure. And some of the first upgrades for better performance can actually be 3D printed on the A8 itself. Alternatively, some users purchase A8 as a source of parts, which they build a slightly different printer with, upgrading from light and prone to wobbling acrylic frame to a metal one.

This one is a bit advanced upgrade that will require you to purchase additional bits. However, due to A8 infamous power supply, you should consider monitoring the voltage and current.

If you get the EZOut board you will be using this to connect aBL Touch ABL sensorto your 3D Printer. You plug this board into your LCD header on your control board and then plug the LCD cable into our board. You then have the required 5V, Ground, and Signal pins available to connect to your BL Touch Sensor with ZERO soldering. The signal pin broken out on our board is Pin 27, this will be your SERVO pin in your firmware. Includes the 10 pin extension cable so the board does not hit your control box or printer frame.

You can add on a bootloader kit above and there is a very easy to follow guide with a video on our page here: 1284p Printer Bootloader Flashing Video Guide – CR-10/Ender 2 3 5/Wanhao i3/Anet

If you get the EZOut board you will be using this to connect aBL Touch ABL sensorto your 3D Printer. You plug this board into your LCD header on your control board and then plug the LCD cable into our board. You then have the required 5V, Ground, and Signal pins available to connect to your BL Touch Sensor with ZERO soldering. The signal pin broken out on our board is Pin 27, this will be your SERVO pin in your firmware. Includes the 10 pin extension cable so the board does not hit your control box or printer frame.

You can add on a bootloader kit above and there is a very easy to follow guide with a video on our page here: 1284p Printer Bootloader Flashing Video Guide – CR-10/Ender 2 3 5/Wanhao i3/Anet

I"ve got the Anet A8 display working on a RAMPS 1.6 (which basically works exactly the same as a RAMPS 1.4 board). Note that at first connection I got exactly the same display when I connected the LCD to the EXP1 and EXP 2 headers using the "smart adapter".

To get the Anet A8 display working on a MKS GEN L (which is basically a RAMPS board as the pin layout of the RAMPS configuration are used in the firmware of the MKS GEN L) you need to forget about the EXP1 and EXP2 headers and the "smart adapter" for the Anet A8 display. Instead you need to connect the Anet A8 display to the AUX2 header. The only thing you would have to do (from the hardware side) is to switch the cables that are connected to the pin 1 and pin 2. I used Dupont connectors and cables. Pin 1 on AUX2 is VCC and pin 2 on AUX2 is GND, this is reversed on the Anet A8 display.

Please note that in the photo you still see the "smart adapter" with flat ribbon cables, but they are not connected to a screen, the reason for them being there is I also tested the full graphic discount controller in a previous session. The Anet A8 display is connected to the flat ribbon cable on AUX2 just above the top-left most stepper driver.

At the time of writing and the use of an older Marlin version, this required to set #define ULTRA_LCD. In Marlin 1.1.9 you do not need to set #define ULTRA_LCD explicitly, this is now intrinsically set by #define ZONESTAR_LCD. To elaborate on this, the #define ZONESTAR_LCD sets the constant #define ULTIPANEL which sets constant #define ULTRA_LCD in Conditionals_LCD.h.

The cabling is fine I think. My printer uses the Anet v1.0 board that came with the original packaging. The printer was working fine, logging close to 10 hours of print time until it suddenly decided to quit on me. Do you have the board schematic? I am not sure where the problem is. Would be nice to figure it out. I have also raised a complaint to gearbest requesting an alternative board. Not particularly optimistic after looking up their track record.

This is a cover that will fit over the LCD screen of the Anet A8 that uses the 5 button display. It may fit models with the knob display, but I am not sure.

Is that the reprapdiscount lcd/sd card/rotary encoder? adding a few delays seemed to help mine stop corrupting on my anycubic kossel (ramps1.4 clone, with reprapdiscount clone). Rapidly twirling the encoder while going in and out of menus was the most reliable way I found to get corruption to happen and now it"s stable.