lcd panel connect to computer power supply brands

There aren’t many components as boring as the power supply in your PC, but the new Aorus P1200W 80+ Platinum modular power supply is looking to change that. The unit includes an LCD screen on the side that allows you to quickly monitor system information or just add a little more bling to your build.

The main purpose of the screen is to show system information like your total power consumption, fan speed, and PSU temperature. However, you can customize it with just about anything. The screen supports custom text, image files, GIFs, and even MP4s, so you can loop your favorite clip or perhaps even play a full movie.

Gigabyte hasn’t listed any information about the screen, so the resolution and refresh rate might kill the experience. Under the screen is a thin RGB strip with some Aorus branding, which you can customize and sync through Gigabyte’s RGB Fusion 2.0 software.

Glitz isn’t all that makes the P1200W stand out. As a high-end unit capable of taking on the best power supplies, it comes with 80+ Platinum certification, flat modular cables, Japanese capacitors, and a slew of temperature, current, and voltage protections.

It isn’t short of connections, either. It comes with 24-pin motherboard power, two 8-pin CPU connectors, six 8-pin PCIe cables, 16 SATA connections through four cables, and two Molex connectors. All of the cables are fully modular, too, so you only have to plug in what ones you’ll use.

Keeping everything cool is a single 140mm fan, which stays idle if the load is under 20%. The fan also has a unique feature that lets you reverse its direction to blow dust out that’s accumulated inside the power supply. You can set the fan to do that every time you turn on your computer, or you can do it manually.

Unlike a lot of high-wattage power supplies, the Aorus P1200W isn’t any bigger than a standard ATX unit. It measures only 160mm in length compared to the 200mm seen on most other 1200W PSUs.

Gigabyte hasn’t released any information on pricing or where you’ll be able to find the P1200W. At the time of publication, it’s not available through Gigabyte’s online store, and the only retailer in the “where to buy” section doesn’t have it listed. Once it starts making the rounds, though, it will likely be on the premium end of things.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

Back in 2018, Gigabyte introduced its first AORUS-branded power supplies with the AORUS P850W and P750W. The firm has, since then, consistently launched AORUS-branded desktop power supply units (PSUs) and today it is introducing perhaps its most interesting, and maybe somewhat bizarre, product in this segment.

This all-new SMPS model is called the AORUS P1200W, and the striking feature of this power supply is its LCD display which the PSU sports on its side so users can look at it through the case"s tempered glass panel.

LCD displays on PSUs aren"t new and manufacturers like Cooler Master and ASUS have made such things before. But the one on the new AORUS P1200W makes it the first of its kind because of what the LCD promises to be capable of.

Outside of monitoring the various specifications like current flow, power consumption, temperature, fan speed and such, the provided LCD screen can also display customized text, GIF files, and even MP4 videos. The lighting effects on the thing can also be adjusted using the RGB Fusion 2.0 software.

The screen also appears to be pretty big from the image and seems to be taking up a decent amount of space on the P1200W"s side. Speaking of the size of the PSU, the P1200W measures 160mm long, 150mm wide, and 86mm high.

In terms of hardware, the new AORUS PSU is a modular 80+ Platinum unit that exhibits ~92% efficiency at typical loads. The P1200W appears to output around 100Amps of current on its +12V rail. For cooling the unit, a double ball bearing 140mm fan has been provided. And in the case of overload, the P1200W PSU features OVP/OPP/SCP/UVP/OCP/OTP protections.

Note: Your email address is used only to let the recipient know who sent the email and in case of transmission error. Neither your address nor the recipient"s address will be used for any other purpose.

An essential element of all electrical and mechanical devices are computer controller panels. They help regulate things like pressure, humidity, temperature and several other factors in computer operations. Furthermore, they can also operate as a safety feature. With so many technological advancements recently, computer controller panels are compatible with many different devices, especially in heater units and HVAC devices. It"s very simple to install specific components by just plugging them into a motherboard. Computer controllers are micro-based techs, used for environmental controls. USB ports for front panels on computer towers offer convenience for users who require optimal connectivity.

Traditional pneumatic sensor data for computer control panels isn"t as accurate as those from electrical sensors. Pneumatic sensors can sometimes drift from time to time, especially when heavily loaded. Electrical sensors don"t have this drawback. Getting accurate information will ensure effective safety mechanisms.

With touchscreen technology taking over different sectors and industries, more businesses are looking for ways they can take advantage of these advancements. Hence the rise of such products like the touch screen fan controller, which helps improve user experience and efficiency. Perhaps the most appealing thing about touch screen tech is both the direct and natural interactions it tends to facilitate. This type of digital controller hub is far more intuitive, and simpler to use.

It"s often much easier to integrate computer controller panels in most modern-day devices. This integration allows for easy and quick logic configuration. Use a digital controller hub for different applications that include security control systems and lighting control features. Also, digital controllers provide the user with visible control panels, giving them the ability to manage their device"s performance. Such panels will be able to report any deviations of temperature while performing the cooling process efficiently. Factor in the type of computer case to accommodate any controls.

One of touch screen technology"s fundamental benefits is the easy-to-use feature it has. Touch monitors are usually easy to maintain. In most cases they"re flat, and have dust and water-sealed display screens so that they"re easy to clean. A lot of businesses today are using computer controller panels to help them perform a lot of tasks in the operation of the business. A temperature-based fan speed controller can go a long way in a hot steamy warehouse. Precise regulation of temperature allows people to work efficiently. Splitter cables are available to accommodate individuals who do PC mining frequently. With a multitude of practical computer and case accessories to choose from, it"s easy to customize different electronic devices. Frequent gamers can take advantage of gaming cases, which provide optimal cooling for high-speed computing performances. Gaming case materials include tempered glass panels, brushed aluminum and other durable options.

Computer power supplies convert the alternate current from the power outlets in your home to the direct current your PC uses. They also provide power to the various components of the computer, such as hard drives, fans and optical drives.

ATX power supplies fit ATX motherboards and computer cases. They can provide 300W of power or more. Unlike older computer power supplies, they have a soft switch instead of a physical switch, allowing turning them on and off via software. Most models have SATA connectors, to power hard drives and optical drives. They use a 20-pin power connector.

ATX12V power supplies look almost identical to the ATX ones, but they have different power connectors. The ATX12V v1.0 models use a 20-pin main connector, a 4-pin 12V connector for the processor and a 6-pin auxiliary connector. ATX12V v2.0 power supplies use a 24-pin main connector and a 4-pin connector for the processor. These power supplies are the most common in modern computers.

Power factor correction (PFC) power supplies reduce the amount of reactive power your computer produces. The components of your PC cannot use reactive power, but energy companies still charge you for it. Active PFC power supplies use electronic circuits, while the passive PFC ones use inductors and capacitors. Both PFC mechanisms also distribute the power more efficiently between the components of your computer.

Non-modular power supplies are generally cheaper and they feature several cables soldered to the same circuit board. This kind of construction may obstruct airflow and cause overheating inside the computer case. Non-modular PSUs may also look unsightly if your PC case has a window. Semi-modular power supplies have less hardwired cables, so they tend to cause less overheating, avoiding damage to the computer"s components. Modular power supplies have no hardwired cables, so you can choose which ones you want to connect. They tend to be more expensive than the other types.

A redundant power supply system lets your PC use two or more power supplies. Each power supply has the capability of powering the entire computer alone. If one of them stops working, the PC will keep running as normal. It minimizes downtime and prevents damage to the internal PC components. Redundant power supplies are suitable for data center facilities and business environments, where uptime is essential.

Many quality computer power supplies use protection mechanisms to prevent damage to the components of your PC. Overvoltage protection shuts down the PCU if it exceeds a specified voltage limit. Overcurrent protection, on the other hand, shuts down the PCU if there is excessive current.

With five outlets on battery backup and 10 outlets total, this UPS can reliably keep your Wi-Fi network running for up to four hours in a blackout or keep your home-office setup powered long enough for you to save your work and shut down.

The CyberPower CP900AVR will cover the basics for most people during common, short-term blackouts. In our tests, it provided enough power to keep a household broadband modem and Wi-Fi router running for four hours, which means you can stay online while the power is off and get in touch with emergency services, follow news and weather changes, or just pass the time on your favorite websites. It requires no setup aside from plugging it in, and it includes automatic voltage regulation—an important feature that some cheaper models lack. Five of its 10 outlets are backed up by a battery, and its compact shape—about the size of a three-ring binder—and its 6-foot cord make it relatively easy to stow under a desk or nightstand.

This UPS has the highest peak power output and run time of any model we tested, so it can run more gear for a longer stretch than anything else. Plus, its higher-quality power is compatible with even the most sensitive electronics.

The APC BR1500MS2 is the most expensive UPS we recommend for most homes or small offices, but it offers a lot of value in the extra features it includes. If you need to provide power to more (or larger) devices at your computer workstation during an outage, it can deliver up to 847 W—we had trouble finding home-office gear powerful enough to overload it in our testing. Like our top pick, it can keep the average modem and router running for up to four hours, giving you more than enough time to save your work and wait for the blackout to end. Roughly the size and shape of a small PC tower, it has 10 outlets in total, six of which it backs up with the battery, and it adds two USB ports (one USB-A and one USB-C) for charging small devices without the need for an extra power adapter. Because it has a pure sine-wave inverter, its power is as smooth as that of a standard wall outlet, making it safe and reliable for even sensitive equipment such as a CPAP machine. Lastly, its backlit screen provides helpful information such as the remaining battery life and the total wattage of the devices plugged into the unit.

This UPS lacks premium features, but it has plenty of outlets and power to keep a home Wi-Fi network up and running for up to an hour and a half when the power goes out.

If you’re on a tight budget, the Amazon Basics Standby UPS 800VA is an affordable UPS with the battery and run time of a more expensive model: It can keep a typical router and modem running for up to one and a half hours. Its maximum output is on the lower side (we measured up to 470 W in our testing), but that should be plenty of power for the six battery-backed outlets to support basics such as home Wi-Fi gear. Unlike our other picks, this less expensive model uses standby power management instead of automatic voltage regulation (AVR). That should be fine in most cases, but it’s harder on the battery, and you shouldn’t use it for sensitive AV gear or medical equipment. Plus, Amazon offers only a one-year warranty on its UPS models, in contrast to the three-year warranties that brand-name companies provide.

a. Please check if the connection of the power cord and electric socket are well connected as shown below. If there is a main power switch on the extension cord, please make sure it is switched on. If it still can"t power on, please replace the extension cord or electric socket.

c. Check the power cable of power supply is correctly connected to ATX power connectors. Some motherboard may contain8-pin EATX12V_1, 4-pin EATX12V_2 and 24-pin EATXPWR, we suggest to connect all three connectors to the power supply.

b. If the display cable connects to the on-board display port, and still shows no display, please refer to official website of your CPU vendor AMD or Intel, to check if your installed CPU supports on-board graphics.

c. If you have confirmed your CPU supports on-board graphics, but still have no display, please try to re-install CPU and check if the CPU pin or CPU socket is dirty as below. If yes, please clean it and try again.

b. If it has no display when you install two or more memory, please check whether problem can be solved by installing only one memory . Then try to install the other memory to eliminate memory problem.

e. How to install memory on the motherboard and precautions? Please refer to FAQ: [Motherboard] How to install memory on the motherboard and precautions

b. Please try to display from the integrated graphics of the motherboard (if CPU has no function of on-board graphics, please ignore this step). Please power off, then remove the external graphics card and connect the display cable to the integrated graphics output port, as indicated in below green marked. If the integrated graphics port can display, it means that the external graphics card may have some issues, please replace a known good graphics card.

a. Please make sure monitor is powerd on normally and check the indicator light of monitor is on to ensure the power cable of the monitor is connected correctly. Make sure the external power cable is powerd on normally as shown below. Please try to switch on, switch off and switch on the power of the socket, check if monitor can display. If you switch off and switch on the monitor, monitor shows ""no signal"", it indicates the monitor is powerd on normally.

b. Confirm that the signal cable(VGA/DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort) is correctly connected to the monitor, also confirm that the other end of the signal cable is connected to the display output (graphics card) of the computer. Try to replug the two tops of the display cable and confirm that all pins are not bent.

c. Confirm that the display output of the monitor is correct. For example, if it currently connected to the computer via HDMI interface , you should choose the display output of the monitor as HDMI display output.

d. Then try to re-boot the computer. If it can power on normally, the problem may be from the removed external devices. Re-connect the external device one by one until you find which external device or cable causes the problem.

Note: if you adjust the BIOS option (for example, adjust the voltage or other options due to overclocking), you can also try to clear the CMOS recovery BIOS option and restart if there is no display at startup

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

With PC hardware components getting ever more power intensive, the need for high-wattage 1000W power supplies is perhaps stronger than ever. The RTX 4090 and AMD RX 7000 series require up to four 8 pin GPU power connectors, meaning you’ll need a power supply with some significant oomph to get going.

Given how power-demanding building an exceptionally powerful PC has become, what kind of power supplies are on offer that can output 1000W, and which ones feature the new PCI-E 5.0 standard to rid the need for those nasty 3 or 4-way adapters?

As I alluded to in the introduction, the need for 1000W units is growing, even in builds that you would previously classify as being ‘upper mid-range’. Five years ago,building a PC that needed a 1000W PSU was reserved for only the priciest systems, but with modern CPUs and GPUs more power hungry than ever, the need for a 1000W unit is becoming very real.

It is also bearing in mind that a 1000W power supply isn’t really going to output the full 1000W, all of the time. Instead, the high wattage is useful for dealing with power draw spikes from the GPU and CPU that occur at the start of high load periods.

You also lose some power to efficiency, with even the best units out there sacrificing some of their maximum output as heat or noise. The 80+ efficiency rating of a power supply is always worth a look, as this shines on a light on the units efficiency.

Despite the clear increase in wattage requirements, there is a bit of a balancing act when it comes to finding the right wattage for your build. There are a number of guides and configurators online which will pick out the power supply that you need based on the components you’ve picked. But, the biggest flaw to these websites is that they don’t take into account other factors such as efficiency, longevity and sometimes even boosting behaviour.

Dependent on the kind of PC that you’re putting together, although meeting the power requirement for your components is arguably the most important factor, there are definitely other considerations that need to be made. If you’re the kind of user that plans on upgrading to the latest generation of components within the next few years you’ll definitely want some legroom for your power supply in the event that your required wattage increases further. This means that if you’re overall build power requirement is 850W, we’d recommend bumping this up to 1000W or even more.

The 16 and 12-Pin power connectors were seen with the introduction of Nvidia’s RTX 3000 Founders Edition cards, and we’ve seen them carry through to the RTX 4000 series. The difference is that the 3000 series used only the connector shape, and not the digital connectivity the cable provides. While the cable is notnecessary, it helps to tidy up the aesthetic and cable management of a build, and keeps things streamlined.

Before we jump into our full list, we’ve given three power supplies an award based on their various features, design, and pricing. We’ve put together a list of pros and cons for each product to give you a full overview of each one.

Finding the right power supply for your build can be a difficult endeavour so we’ve picked out the best 1000W power supplies for a range of different builds. We’ve included both PCI-E 5.0 and 4.0 options alongside different efficiency ratings, and extra features for those that want the best PSUs money can buy. Check out the list below to see the best 1000W PSUs to buy:

First off in our roundup is Gigabyte‘s P1000GM power supply. This PSU offers a multitude of different cables and connections and is one of the cheapest 1000W power supplies that you can pick up. Sporting an 80+ Gold efficiency, the P1000M ensures delivery of 90% efficiency at 50% load which will lead to reduced power wastage as noise and heat. Keeping your PSU’s load around this level will keep costs down in the long run, which is ideal in the current economic climate.

The 120mm smart hydraulic bearing fan is designed to keep noise levels low, and will automatically stop once your usage is at less than 20% load. The bearing itself will also provide a longer lifespan for your PSU. Overall, the P1000GM is one of the best options available at a lower price point. You get access to a multitude of cables to install various peripherals and accessories, while keeping power consumption low due to the efficiency rating. This PSU unfortunately doesn’t support the new ATX standard, but for the price I’d say this is a small sacrifice to make.

NZXT‘s C1000 Gold is a power supply we’ve used in a number of PC builds due its reliability and consistency. Although this PSU doesn’t really offer much in terms of an aesthetic, NZXT know how to make a compact and sleek design that will blend in well with other components.

You’ve got access to fully modular cable management, affording you the option to pick and choose your cables at will, reducing any frustrating cable clutter than comes with non-modular designs. This PSU also sports an 80+ Gold efficiency rating, reducing any power lost as heat or noise, and delivering 90% efficiency at around a 50% load. This makes this PSU a great choice for those looking at a competitively-priced 1000W power supply unit.

MSI‘s MPG A1000G is another power supply that we’ve used in quite a few builds, and also covered off in afull, in-depth review. The A1000G offers a compact and sleek design, featuring MSI’s signature MPG branding. This unit is ideal for top-end builds that need plenty of wattage to sustain a high load. The 80+ Gold rated efficiency ensures lower energy consumption allowing you to maintain high performance.

This PSU features a fully modular design, equipped with flat cables which allow you to easily manoeuvre and manage the cables throughout your case with no kinks or unsightly bends. The Zero Fan mode located next to the power switch allows you to enjoy absolute silence when your overall TDP is below 40%, further further demonstrating how efficient A1000G is, and keeping the whole PC build nice and quiet.

Corsair‘s HX1000i is the upgrade you need for the latest batch of ATX 3.0 builds. This PSU sports an 80+ Platinum efficiency rating, allowing for sustained, high loads, with the latest and most demanding PC upgrades now and into the future. Including the ATX 3.0 standard also removes the usage of pesky adapters, allowing you to pick and choose exactly what cables you want without frustration.

The HX1000i is also one of the most tuneable power supplies in our roundup, something which can easily be configured with Corsair’s industry leading iCUE software. The unit connects to a front panel USB 2.0 header through a USB connection on the power supply unit itself. In Corsair iCUE, you can change the fan curve, voltages, and monitor system wide information all through one application. The HX1000i is perfect for users that have the newest series of GPUs that want ultimate control over their system.

For our final pick, we’ve chosen the ASUS ROG THOR Platinum II. This PSU is perfectly designed for those that want to build a system with the latest generation of graphics card, whilst giving you the option to make an awesome looking system. The ROG THOR is extremely unique in that it has an OLED display located on the side, allowing you to monitor performance and efficiency in real-time. The OLED display looks awesome, and blends in well with the fully customisable RGB which can be configured with a variety of different lighting effects and colours.

A dual monitor setup isn"t always plug-and-play. Extending your screen to a second or third monitor requires a suitable graphics card with sufficient ports. This is particularly challenging if you"d like to add more than one external screen to your laptop.

Before you start shoving wires into ports in the back of your PC or the sides of your laptop, stop and take a closer look at those ports so that you know what you"re looking at. Modern computers handle video via an HDMI port, but older computers feature a variety of other ports:

DisplayPort: A DisplayPort was originally designed as a superior video port to older VGA and DVI ports, but is far less popular on modern computer systems than the HDMI port.

DVI: The Digital Visual Interface was originally designed by the Digital Display Working Group, and was next-generation to the inferior VGA port. Many older computers have one of several configurations of the DVI port.

Thunderbolt: A Thunderbolt port is a combination of several technologies, including DisplayPort and PCI Express, in combination with a power supply to power the external display if required.

VGA: Older computers typically come with the famous blue VGA port. The 15-pin VGA has been used for computer video for many years, but has been largely replaced by the newer video ports like Thunderbolt and HDMI.

Typically, if your computer has two ports on it, the video card should be capable of sending an output signal to both. If there"s only one port, then it probably can"t. However, your desktop might have available slots for additional video cards. So, even if there"s only one port on your desktop, don"t hesitate to pop the cover and check for any available slots for another video card.

When it comes to laptops, another option is to purchase and use compatible docking stations. You may have a docking station option that could extend your laptop (which may only have a single video port), into a docking station that features two or more ports. So, even if you only have one video port available, definitely research the graphics cards if you want to set up a dual monitor laptop.

If you have two ports, but you can"t seem to get both ports to work at the same time, the next step is to determine if your video card even has the ability to display to multiple monitors.

In the display settings, you may actually see the multiple displays come up, with some disabled and others set up as either your primary display or as an extended display. You can ignore those for now and instead click on Advanced display settings at the bottom of this window.

On the next page, you should see Display information for each connected display if your graphics card "sees" the number of monitors that you"ve plugged in.

If you only see one, then you should quit here because even though you managed to connect multiple displays, the card is only able to utilize one at a time. Much of your success in this comes down to hardware capability, so checking this first is the most important thing.

However, if you"ve confirmed that your video card can "see" all displays that you"ve plugged in, yet you can"t seem to get additional monitors to work, don"t give up. There are a few more things you can try to fix the issue.

If you"re still not certain whether your computer can support dual monitors, another option is to research your graphics card. First, look up the brand of your graphics card.

Head to Google and research the brand of your graphics adapter, followed by the word "multi-display" or "multi-monitor." Hopefully, you"ll be able to find some evidence of whether your graphics card can handle multiple monitors.

If your laptop or PC has a DisplayPort, then you might be able to take advantage of what"s called multi-stream transport (MST) to daisy-chain two monitors off the single DisplayPort. These are the requirements:

Now, in the Display Settings screen, you should see both monitors detected. You can arrange them to either mirror or extend your desktop. There is also the option to split an HDMI signal to multiple monitors.

A docking station is a great way to add additional ports to your laptop, including ports for external monitors. The Anker PowerExpand Elite 13-In-1 Thunderbolt 3 Dock, for example, lets you hook up two 4K 60Hz monitors using its Thunderbolt 3 and HDMI ports. By using a splitter on your Windows laptop, you could even connect a total of three 4K monitors. Other laptop docking stations feature similar options.

Even if your PC or laptop graphics card only supports a single output port, you can still extend your system with a second display using a USB-powered monitor and DisplayLink software. Find an external display that"s USB-powered, plug it in, and install free DisplayLink software to make it all work.

Whichever approach you take to set up a dual monitor setup, you configure it all under Settings (press Windows + I) > System > Display. The example above is a laptop connected to an external monitor using the HDMI port on a USB-C dock.

To determine where your mouse can cross over from one monitor to the next, drag the squares representing your monitors around to rearrange them. Click Apply to save your changes.

To display different things on two or more displays, you need to extend your screen to the other monitors. Under Settings > System > Display, scroll down to Multiple displays and select Extend these displays.

If you want to close your laptop"s lid, but still use your external monitor, for example, to watch a movie, you have to change your laptop"s power options, which are hidden in the Windows 10 Control Panel.

If you want to use your external monitor, select Do nothing next to When I close the lid. Note that you can have different settings, depending on whether your laptop is running on battery or is plugged in.

As you can see, there are a lot of steps in the process where some people would give up and conclude that it just doesn"t work. If that"s still you, consider getting a larger monitor.

But really, it comes down to just making sure your video card is capable of doing this, and then playing around with those display settings and making sure that the monitors are configured correctly. If you have one DisplayPort, consider the daisy-chain option. And if all else fails, buy a USB monitor and install DisplayLink software.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

Want three monitors for better gaming or multitasking in Windows? You’ve come to the right place! After reading this article, you’ll know exactly what to do.

Note that we’re not talking about 3 monitors showing exactly the same thing, here. We’re talking about extending your desktop across all 3 monitors, and being able to move your mouse from one monitor to the next. Like this…

A lot of computers have a motherboard with video ports (called ‘integrated graphics’) AND a graphics card with video ports. If your computer has this setup, you’ll see two groups of video ports. But don’t be fooled by all those ports. Although you sometimes can run monitors off your integrated graphics and graphics card at the same time, you probably wouldn’t want to. Things will get pretty laggy – particularly when you switch between monitors.

If you’re not concerned about lag, and you want to use integrated graphics and your graphics card at the same time, you have to go into your PC’s BIOS and permanently enable your integrated graphics card. (Do this by going to Configuration > Video > Integrated graphics device > Always enable. Your menu options may be slightly different.) If you don’t do this, any monitors connected to your integrated graphics (motherboard) will stop working as soon as you plug a monitor into your graphics card.

Some graphics cards have more ports than you can use at once. E.g. Yours might have 3 ports, but you may only be able to use 2 at the same time. To determine how many of the ports you can use simultaneously, you’ll have to consult your graphics card’s documentation. Alternatively, you could Google it; search for the brand and model of your video card, and the number of monitors you want to run. (e.g. “Nvidia GTX 570 three monitors”).

The same applies to motherboards. So if you don’t have a dedicated graphics card, and you see 3 ports on your motherboard, you may only be able to use 2 at the same time. So you’ll need to check the motherboard’s documentation to see what it supports (or, again, Google it).

It’s possible you have two, but it’s very unlikely you have three. So you won’t be able to run triple monitors unless you buy extra hardware, as explained below.

If your computer doesn’t have the required ports to run triple monitors, don’t give up. You may still be able to do it. ReadStep 2, below to find out how…

If you’re using a desktop PC, you can buy a new graphics card that supports triple monitors. (You can’t do this for a laptop, because most laptops use an integrated graphics card which is permanently attached to the motherboard.)

But before investing in a new graphics card, you should know that not all graphics cards are compatible with your PC’s motherboard. To see if a graphics card is compatible with your PC, you need to check your motherboard’s PCI Express slot, the size of your chosen graphics card and the power requirements.

There are different types of expansion slots on a motherboard. For a graphics card to be connected, you need a PCI Express x16 slot. The quickest way to find out if you have this slot is to Google your motherboard’s manufacturer and model. Alternatively, you can open up your computer case to check if you have the slot. (The PCI Express x16 slot should be the longest on the motherboard.)

You’ll need to be sure that your computer case has enough room for the new graphics card (they’re often quite bulky because they have an attached cooling fan).

Once you know how big it is, check how much space you have where the card will go. I.e. Locate the PCI Express x16 slot, and imagine plugging something like the below into it. Will it fit, or will the surrounding cards and cables get in the way?

A graphics card that supports triple monitors will draw a lot more power than a card that supports just one. E.g. A standard graphics card needs between 100W to 300W, but a card that supports triple monitors may need 600W.

If your PC doesn’t have enough power to support it, your computer may shut down unexpectedly or fail to turn on when you install the new graphics card.

Check your computer’s specifications to see how many watts the power supply unit (PSU) can provide. If you can’t find any specifications, you should be able to see the output on your computer’s power supply. You’ll need to look inside the case, for something like this:

An external multi-display adapter should be cheaper than a new graphics card – they retail for approx USD $150. They’re also much easier to install – you just plug one of the supplied cables into your USB port (this powers the adapter) and the other into your Mini DisplayPort or USB Type-C port (this sends the video signal from your computer to the adapter).

These adapters are great if you want a cheap way to get triple monitors (they cost around USD $50), but they don’t perform as well as a powerful graphics card or an external multi-display adapter. So they’re not a great choice for gaming or HD video playback.

A docking station like the one pictured above allows you to attach up to three additional monitors to your computer. You just connect your computer to the docking station with the supplied USB host cable, then connect your extra monitors to the docking station’s DisplayPort and HDMI ports.

Once you’ve confirmed that your computer has the necessary video ports to support triple monitors (or you’ve bought additional hardware to support them), you need to make sure you have all the necessary cables to connect everything.

Recall the video ports you identified on your computer in step 1. E.g. If you have two HDMI ports and one DisplayPort on your computer, you’ll need two HDMI cables and a DisplayPort cable to connect three monitors.

Next, you need to check the ports on your monitors. E.g. If you’re connecting to a computer with two HDMI ports and one DisplayPort, ideally you’ll have two monitors with an HDMI input, and one with a DisplayPort input.

If the ports on your monitors don’t match those on your computer, don’t panic. You can simply buy an adapter or an adapter cable. E.g. If your computer has a DisplayPort, but your monitor has only a VGA input, you can get either a DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter like the below, and then connect from the VGA input of the adapter to the VGA input of your monitor with a male-to-male VGA cable.

Once you have all the necessary hardware (as described in steps 1, 2 and 3 above) and you’ve connected everything properly, it’s time to set up your monitors. Here’s how:

2) Click on one, then click Identify to see which illustrated monitor represents which monitor on your desk. E.g. Click on the monitor marked with a 1, and a number 1 will appear on one of the monitors on your desk.

4) If the arrangement on-screen doesn’t match how your monitors are arranged on your desk, just rearrange it by dragging and dropping with your mouse.

5)Click the drop-down menu next to Multiple displays and select Extend these displays. You’ll then seeone continuous display that stretches across all of your monitors (i.e. you can drag your mouse or windows from one screen to the other).

2) Click on one, then click Identify to see which illustrated monitor represents which monitor on your desk. E.g. Click on the monitor marked with a 1, and a number 1 will appear on one of the monitors on your desk.

4) If the arrangement on-screen doesn’t match how your monitors are arranged on your desk, just rearrange it by dragging and dropping with your mouse.

5) If you want, you can customize Scale and layoutto change the size of text, apps and other items on your screens. You can also adjust the resolution and orientation.

6)Click the drop-down menu next to Multiple displays and select Extend these displays. You’ll then see one continuous display that stretches across all of your monitors (i.e. you can drag your mouse or windows from one screen to the other).

To ensure your triple monitor setup runs smoothly, and to prevent problems like loss of signal and black screens, you should update the drivers for both your graphics card and your monitors. There are two ways you can do this:

To manually get the latest drivers for your graphics card and monitors, you can go to all the manufacturers’ websites, find the right drivers for your device models and version of Windows, then manually download and install each.

If you don’t have the time, patience or computer skills to manually update the drivers for your monitors and your graphics card, you can do it automatically with

Driver Easy will automatically recognize your system and find the correct drivers for it. You don’t need to know exactly what system your computer is running, you don’t need to risk downloading and installing the wrong driver, and you don’t need to worry about making a mistake when installing.

3)Click Update All to automatically download and install the correct version of all the drivers that are missing or out of date on your system. (This requires the