can cold temperatures kill an lcd touch screen free sample

Cold weather can damage electronics, best to keep them indoors. While you"re planning to keep yourself warm during the cold weather, make sure you consider your electronic devices, too. Tech experts say the cold can drain your battery in minutes, cause permanent damage and it can also freeze an LCD screen.

While normally a cool environment is preferable to a warm one when it comes to keeping your electronics up and running, if it gets too cold, certain components can suffer sudden failure. For instance, LCD screens contain fluid and at extreme temperatures can freeze.

Electronics begin to break down and fry at temperatures above 120 degrees. Most systems tend to run 10 to 20 degrees hotter than room temperature, so anything you can do to reduce the build-up of heat will help to protect your investment better.

After a few hours in the cold, your battery will likely be drained completely, rendering your gadget useless until its next charge. Damage is done to screens and monitors when left out in the cold.

2) What are the temperature limits of electronics? At the low end, operation of semiconductor-based devices and circuits has often been reported down to temperatures as low as a few degrees above absolute zero, in other words as low as about −270°C.

Circuit systems within electronics work best at lower temperatures. Allowing systems to run for prolonged periods of time in high temperatures can decrease the longevity and reliability of devices. Solid-state electronics actually begin to break down and fry at temperatures much above 120 degrees.

An LCD or LED TV may not perform well under extreme temperature conditions. In the cold, the response time of an HDTV picture may lag. For this reason, many LCD and LED television manuals will specify a safe-operating-temperature range. In most HDTVs, this range is about 50–90°F.

It"s okay to store it in the garage but if you bring it inside from a very cold/damp place, I"d recommend you let the TV sit for a while to allow for any condensation to evaporate before plugging it in. An hour should do it.

Do not leave a laptop in a cold car for more than an hour if the temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius. Leaving a computer in freezing conditions can actually cause permanent damage to the battery and LCD screen. Reduce the risk by storing the computer in an insulated box in the trunk.

Laptops have been designed to work within a safe temperature range, typically between 50 to 95 degrees F (10 - 35 degrees C). This range refers to the optimal usage temperature of the outside environment and the temperature the laptop should be warmed to before using.

However, you do need to make sure your electronics are protected from moisture, water, wind, and extreme hot and cold temperatures. You should also make sure your electronics are made for outdoor use and not indoor-only use.

The trick to properly storing electronics in heat and cold is to avoid those temperatures altogether! Electronics are best stored in HVAC regulated environments between 50 and 80 degrees.

LCD stands for liquid crystal display. When temperatures dip below 32-degrees Fahrenheit, liquid freezes which can cause permanent damage to your LCD screen. That"s the number one reason to make sure you never leave your computer in a cold car or even on a cold floor overnight.

Best case scenario, the cooling system needs to be repaired and the internals of the Xbox would need to be cleaned. Worst case, you have a stylish $500 paperweight. I"d advise against leaving the Xbox in the car overnight if it"s 40 degrees Fahrenheit or lower.

Cold temperatures are not as dangerous to a computer as overheating is, but problems can still occurs. If computers get too cold when left powered off, their components can be damaged upon boot because the electricity heats the circuit.

Generally, once it hits 90° or 95° Fahrenheit, you want to start shielding your laptop and smartphone from the heat. Remember that the inside of your car will get hotter than the outside, too, so even if it isn"t quite 90° outside, you should keep it in your bag or leave it at home.

Extreme heat and cold can damage your battery. For example, don"t leave your smartphone in the glove compartment of your car on very hot or cold days. A common myth is that batteries last longer if they are put in the freezer. This is not correct and can damage your battery.

Safe temperatures vary from when the TV is being used or when being stored. LCD and Plasma Operating temps: 40 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. LCD and Plasma Storage temp: -5 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

What Temperature Is Too Cold for a TV? Ideally, it would be best to store your LCD between 40 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid freezing the liquid crystal fluid. LCD televisions should not be stored below minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. In the cold, an HDTV image"s response time may lag.

Electronics. Most electronics are not meant to stand up to the outdoors, and that"s essentially what your garage is like. Not only will your electronics collect dirt and dust, but they will also become damaged. Humidity and temperature fluctuations will destroy batteries and other operating pieces to your electronics.

Cold weather can damage your laptop in multiple ways, from disabling your display and corrupting your hard drive to shattering your screen if it is warmed up too quickly. Both using and storing your laptop in a cold environment can cause problems.

Since the individual pixels utilize a fluid-like crystal material as the ambient temperature is reduced, this fluid will become more viscous compromising performance. For many LCD displays, temperatures below 0°C represent the point where performance degrades.

Well, most consumer electronic devices use lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries and those batteries cannot be charged at subfreezing temperatures (below 32°F or 0°C) without causing damage.

While normally a cool environment is preferable to a warm one when it comes to keeping your electronics up and running, if it gets too cold, certain components can suffer sudden failure. For instance, LCD screens contain fluid and at extreme temperatures can freeze.

PC World found that different gadgets can withstand different temperatures of cold, but to be conservative, we recommend taking precautions once the ambient temperature reaches freezing, or 32° Fahrenheit.

While many electronics are designed to withstand up to 176 degrees Fahrenheit, the recommended temperature limit is 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Consistent high temperatures can lead to permanent damage to your device. Some devices will power themselves down to avoid this risk.

An LCD or LED TV may not perform well under extreme temperature conditions. In the cold, the response time of an HDTV picture may lag. For this reason, many LCD and LED television manuals will specify a safe-operating-temperature range. In most HDTVs, this range is about 50–90°F.

The trick to properly storing electronics in heat and cold is to avoid those temperatures altogether! Electronics are best stored in HVAC regulated environments between 50 and 80 degrees.

Electronics. Most electronics are not meant to stand up to the outdoors, and that"s essentially what your garage is like. Not only will your electronics collect dirt and dust, but they will also become damaged. Humidity and temperature fluctuations will destroy batteries and other operating pieces to your electronics.

Cold weather can damage electronics, best to keep them indoors. While you"re planning to keep yourself warm during the cold weather, make sure you consider your electronic devices, too. Tech experts say the cold can drain your battery in minutes, cause permanent damage and it can also freeze an LCD screen.

Ambient temperature below 35 F/1.7 C: Generally speaking it"s too cold to operate at this point. You"re dangerously close to freezing and that"s when the physical properties of computer hardware change by flexing (usually). It"s just not a good idea to operate a computer below this mark.

Your batteries will drain rapidly in the cold. After a few hours in the cold, your battery will likely be drained completely, rendering your gadget useless until its next charge. Damage is done to screens and monitors when left out in the cold.

The ground loses heat easily, making it colder than the rest of the room. The cold can affect electronics" inner workings and batteries even in a climate-controlled storage unit. Electronics left like this over the winter can become quite damaged.

The ideal operating temperature of a computer"s environment ranges from 50 degrees F to 82 degrees, though it should be as close as possible to room temperature, 72 degrees. Laptops should operate between 50 and 95 degrees.

While some area doctors said they had no data on when a cold house becomes unsafe, they pretty much agreed that anything below 50 degrees means it"s time to find safer shelter. The elderly and infants and toddlers will be affected by the cold before healthy adults.

Use an appliance thermometer to be sure the temperature is consistently 40° F or below and the freezer temperature is 0° F or below. Refrigerate or freeze meat, poultry, eggs, seafood, and other perishables within 2 hours of cooking or purchasing. Refrigerate within 1 hour if the temperature outside is above 90° F.

Safe temperatures vary from when the TV is being used or when being stored. LCD and Plasma Operating temps: 40 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. LCD and Plasma Storage temp: -5 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

LCD stands for liquid crystal display. When temperatures dip below 32-degrees Fahrenheit, liquid freezes which can cause permanent damage to your LCD screen. That"s the number one reason to make sure you never leave your computer in a cold car or even on a cold floor overnight.

The refrigerator is the only safe option. Storing perishable foods placed outdoors, in a garage, on a balcony or patio exposes them to fluctuating temperatures. Allowing food to be held at inconsistent temperatures increases the risk of foodborne illness when food is later consumed.

It"s also easier to maintain your vehicle in a temperature-regulated area when you need to get to the engine or undercarriage. If you have an unheated building, it is still significantly better than keeping your car outside. Storing a classic car in an unheated garage requires gravel underfoot instead of concrete.

If the garage space is uninsulated or too cold, the freezing temperatures will trick the freezer into thinking it has reached the desired level of refrigeration and it may fail to turn on, which could result in damage to the unit and food spoilage.

Do not leave a laptop in a cold car for more than an hour if the temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius. Leaving a computer in freezing conditions can actually cause permanent damage to the battery and LCD screen.

Circuit systems within electronics work best at lower temperatures. Allowing systems to run for prolonged periods of time in high temperatures can decrease the longevity and reliability of devices. Solid-state electronics actually begin to break down and fry at temperatures much above 120 degrees.

It"s OK to put a TV in your garage in all but the most extreme conditions. Most TV manufacturers allow for an operating range between 40º F- 100º F (4º C – 37º C) and recommend a relative humidity level of 80% or less.

KSNF/KODE — Most people know that high temperatures can damage your smart device. Some devices like the Apple iPhone will power down to prevent damage once it starts to overheat. Extreme cold temperatures can be just as damaging to electronic devices. With the upcoming winter weather, you’ll most likely need your device working optimally to stay up to date with emergency notifications, navigation, and storm tracking. Here’s what you need to know about your device and how to protect them:

Nearly all modern electronic devices contain lithium-ion batteries. These batteries are basically made of four components — cathode, anode, electrolyte, and separator. According to Quantum Scape, lithium-ion batteries charge by moving lithium atoms between the cathode to the anode. As the battery is used or discharged, lithium atoms move in the opposite direction from the anode to the cathode. In low temperatures, the anodes of the battery become sluggish, decreasing its capacity to hold a charge and taking more energy to perform. This is why you may end up charging your devices more often or notice your battery life has been zapped during cold spells. You can read more about the interworking of these components here.

When one component doesn’t perform well, neither do the other components thus affecting the overall performance of your devices including touchscreens and buttons. To prevent this, Apple says to use your device between 32º to 95º Fahrenheit. Using your device outside of its operating temperature may shorten battery life, cause your device to turn off, and may affect its ability to charge at all.

Not only can temperature affect the battery, but cold temperatures can also literally freeze your LCD (liquid crystal display) screen, making them glitch or appear blurry. Touchscreen sensors can lose accuracy since they’re calibrated to work within a specific temperature range. Extreme colds can also make your screen more susceptible to cracking.

Keep your device between its temperature threshold. If you happen to leave your phone or laptop somewhere where temperatures dip below freezing, allow the device to warm up before charging it—whether that’s in your pocket, close to your natural body heat, or in a warm room.

Keep your device from collecting condensation. You shouldn’t take your device from extreme cold to extreme warmth (or extreme cold to immediately on a charger) as this could put your device at risk for condensation and can cause water damage. Give your device as much time as you can to let it gradually warm up before charging it. Avoid putting your device in the oven or using a heating device (blow dryer, space heater, fire, etc.) to warm it up.

Minimize your devices’ exposure by keeping them in a weatherproof protective case, if possible. Also keeping your phone out of the elements inside a handbag, interior pocket, or backpack when you aren’t using it is a good idea. If you travel often with your devices be sure to bring them inside so they don’t freeze overnight in your vehicle.

Keep your device fully charged and a portable charger on hand to avoid the cold from totally draining your battery. A totally drained battery takes longer to charge and turn back on when cold, which can be detrimental in an emergency situation.

Preserve your battery life by turning on a “battery save/low power mode” if you have it, turn off location services until you’re ready to use them, and close apps that you are not using. You can also download movies, music, or maps ahead of time and operate in “airplane mode” to extend the life of your battery.

Turn your phone off and use it sparingly. It’s nearly impossible to be without a smart device these days, but a lot of phone use is out of habit or boredom. In freezing temp situations, these tips used in addition to turning off your phone, or putting it away will ultimately keep your device from experiencing irreparable damage.

No way in heck would I leave my scope (a Rigol) out in the garage. I have most of my stuff in an unheated storage unit at the moment and while I"m not using the scope for anything currently, it is still waiting patiently in my bedroom. I think you made the right choice by being more careful with yours as well.

When I said earlier that LCDs don"t like the cold... they can actually crack or otherwise completely break. I wasn"t just referring to sluggish performance, though sluggish performance is almost a definite in the cold whereas cracking is just a slight possibility (if your equipment is good).

Legally and ethically speaking, I could only sign off on the parameters within which we have verified the IC/processor would work. And then my boss, and her/his boss, and everyone else would see the evidence of the tests, and they too would sign off on those constraints.

If you chose to use your equipment at -50 C, equipped with the processor I signed off on with a low threshold of -15 C, my company would no longer have any obligation to that processor. You have broken the warranty.

Testing at -50 C is a lot more expensive to do than testing at -15 C. I would have to verify the test site is actually -50 C--. It is also very dangerous.

Besides that, special/hermetic packaging is required for ICs to operate at extreme low temperatures. As an extreme example, plastic packaging could develop cracks or structural compromises when we pour liquid nitrogen onto them.

There are stress tests that include simulating temperature variations in the functioning of the IC. Say your laptop is sitting in your car in frozen temperatures of -10 C. You turn it on and within 5 minutes it reaches a temperature of 85 C. And for the whole winter, you did that every evening. What about the head unit and the computer-controller that sits in your car, which you would drive for the next 15 years subjected to such fluctuations every winter in northern Maine?

There were too many mechanical issues that my mechanical engineering colleagues had to deal with when it comes to extreme low temperature testing. So, how low a temperature would you want us to verify and how much more extra are you as the consumer willing to pay for that low temperature testing?

We cannot just test one or two units to verify the absence of mechanical issues like incompatibilities between die and packaging, unlike people who hot rod their motherboards experimenting overclocking with the mere one or two processors they bought from ebay. We have to design the acceptable statistical distribution and the sampling plan that would fall into that distribution, that would apply to a stream of ICs flowing thro the product line.

Such that if the US govt agency somehow decided to operate the equipment beyond the tested and verified constraints, we would no longer be legally held responsible for any mishaps or future malfunction.

I don"t know if a freezer would get the units cold enough to see what happens. I"ve used both grayscale and coler etrex units outside in the winter, and find they"re good to a little below zero fareheit most of the time if you use lithium batteries. Somewhere around zero or a little below, the sreen will get really sluggish, and start doing strange stuff where only parts of it update and stuff like that. The unit will keep recording good tracks though long after the display stops working. On the other end of the spectrum, having taken the Grayscale units into the desert many a time, I can report that direct hot sun on the display will cause the constrast to change to the point you can"t read the screen anymore, and that with eTrex units or a G-III at least you can"t adjust the constrast enough to make them useable. I haven"t observed similar behavior with color units yet though.

On the Teton snowshoe backpacking trip I went on where it got cold enough to cause my VistaC display to fail, I just used the lanyard and kept it inside my coat worn around my neck most of the time. You can then pull it out and use it for a considerable amount of time before it gets cold enough to cause any problems. Other than the rare occasion, most of time though I don"t expose my units to the cold for a long enough period of time to experience problems. As I age, I find I"m a lot less likely to expose myself to that sort of condition. (Who knows, maybe it"s wisdom)

Interestingly, there are many different factors to consider if you want to install an outdoor monitor in an area exposed to the elements.  Not only do outdoor monitors / outdoor signage need to be weather-proof, but useful in their new location. Our SRMW- and SXOBH- SeriesVideo on Monitor View-ability in Direct, Bright Sunlight

When you search for a waterproof high brightness LCD display or weatherproof touch screen, it is essential to make sure they are designed for the job. Check out our SRMW-24Z-SS 24 inch weatherproof screens.  For 2500 nits brightness, our SXOBH-55-4 and SXOBH-65-3 waterproof Sunlight Readable monitors will be the best outdoor monitor solution. Rated IP 68, they provide the highest level of protection of any outdoor  monitor on the market today. And all TRU-Vu monitors are TAA Compliant.

Ingress Protection Code (IP) is an internationally accepted standard.  It classifies and rates the degree of protection provided by enclosures. Protections include against intrusion and dust. Also included are accidental contact, and water. For example, this rating provides a standardized metric to compare different products’ performance with each other. The first number refers to protection against solids.  IP second number refers to protection against liquids.  Additionally, there may be an X in the rating. It means testing was not performed for that specific protection.  For a more detailed description onIP Ratingsfollow the link.  View our IP & NEMA Ratingsliterature for more information,  or watch our video: Demonstration.

We offer weatherproof touch screens and waterproof stainless steel monitors with a variety of resolutions and aspect ratios for your outdoor signage needs. For instance, 4:3 aspect ratio, 5:4 aspect ratio and 16:9 aspect ratio waterproof monitors are available.  Outdoor displays are used in amusement parks, auto racing, car wash facilities, and mass transit. They have also been deployed for advertising, digital signage, kiosks, sports stadiums and military systems. Outdoor monitors and weatherproof touch screens are a fast-growing segment in today’s outdoor display market. We offer only TAA-Compliant monitors.

TRU-Vu also offers a range of outdoor signage, and weatherproof touch screen and weatherproof stainless steel monitor options for industrial, commercial or residential use.  The SXN Series models are available with 55″ and 65″ screen sizes. With 4K resolution and 500 nits of brightness, video images look great in bright conditions.  Additionally, our SXOBH Series outdoor TV’s represent the top-of-the line performance in outdoor TV technology. They offer a fully-sealed IP 68 enclosure, 2,500 nits of brightness, optical bonding, and an operating temperature of -31° to +140°F. They are completely maintenance-free, with no fans, vents or filters to worry about. The front screen is protected by impact-resistant safety glass with an Anti-Reflective coating. It is rated IK 10, and can withstand a 60 mph fastball!! The SXOBH is available with 55″ and 65″ screens. Outdoor video images have never looked so good!

Cold, ice, snow, wind—these are just some of the challenging conditions presented to a nature photographer in winter. If you can endure and overcome these challenges, the rewards are many. To keep you and your gear protected and up to full creative potential, there’s a variety of winter photography gear available. Here are some tips and suggestions that will enhance the success of your winter photography.

It’s always wise to plan a photo outing, but it’s especially important when heading into harsh winter conditions. Search online for information about your intended location. Before you walk out the door, check the weather forecast and road conditions. A plan— don’t leave home without it!

When you head into the field—again, especially in harsh conditions—be sure to bring water, food, a first-aid kit, a flashlight or headlamp, and your fully charged cell phone. If you’re venturing far from your car, area maps and a compass will be helpful. (Also see section #19 on GPS.) If you’re staying in a motel, bring chargers for your gear; if working from your vehicle, car chargers can be invaluable.

Before going into the field, check all of your gear. Make sure everything works properly. If you live in a cold area, see how your camera and lenses handle that. Most DSLRs are rated for temperatures from 0º-40° C (32º-104° F), although current Pentax DSLRs (and some high-end mirrorless cameras like the Olympus OM-D E-M1 and Fujifilm X-T1) are rated down to -10° C (14° F), but many have been used successfully in colder temperatures. If you can test how your camera handles cold temperatures before going to your location, so much the better. Regardless of temperature, make sure the camera, lenses, flash unit and any other items operate properly before taking them afield.

Nothing can ruin a location shoot more than having your only camera or lens break down. Take backup gear—a spare camera body (or a waterproof compact; see section #12), a spare lens, certainly spare batteries and memory cards.

Anyone who has shot in cold weather knows fingers are very vulnerable to the cold, and you’ve likely discovered that it’s hard to control settings on a camera while wearing heavy gloves. Special photographers’ gloves provide protection while being thin enough to allow you to operate your camera. Some have fingertip covers that can be opened briefly to allow you to open the battery-compartment door, change memory cards or make camera settings, then resealed to continue providing warmth. Freehands Stretch Thinsulate gloves are waterproof and windproof, with a silicon grip to prevent the camera from slipping, and thumb and index finger tips that can be opened and sealed, as needed. Arri Crew gloves, Isotoner smarTouch 3 Finger Matrix Nylon gloves and SetWear Cold Weather gloves are other options designed with the photographer in mind.

If you move gear from a cold environment (outside) to a warm one (indoors), or vice versa, condensation can form on the surfaces, outer and internal. To prevent this, put your gear (camera and lens) in an appropriate-sized plastic bag like a Ziploc® type. Let the gear inside the bag warm or cool to the ambient temperature, and there should be no condensation problems. Silica gel packets in the bags will provide even more protection against condensation. You can recharge moist silica gel packs by placing them in a warm oven for a few minutes. Note: Keeping your camera warm under your coat, then bringing it out into the cold repeatedly, can also produce condensation.

Batteries quickly become sluggish as the temperature drops. Lithium-ion types provide the best cold-weather performance, but even these quickly lose power when it’s really cold. One solution is to carry fully charged spare batteries in an inner pocket, where your body heat keeps them warm. Switch to one of the warm batteries when the one in use becomes sluggish. There are also external battery packs, which provide more power than in-camera batteries and can be kept warm in a pocket while a cable connects them to the external camera or flash unit. Whatever power source(s) you use, bring fully charged spares. One note about spare batteries: Be sure to purchase genuine manufacturers’ batteries. Cheap knockoffs can damage your camera, and in the cold, they won’t perform like the genuine article.

When you really want to get off the beaten track for a special shot, a pair of snowshoes is an excellent tool to have. Hiking away from a trail can be a safety issue, and we always recommend traveling with a buddy. In addition to making it easier to walk in deep, heavy snow, snowshoes are safety tools because they keep you from sinking into a snowdrift. It’s surprisingly easy to get stuck in such a drift.

Like cameras, some memory cards can handle cold better than others. Check the specs to see what your cards can handle, and buy newer cards, if necessary, before going out into colder conditions. Some cards are waterproof and coldproof; these, of course, would be good choices for shooting in winter conditions. One staff member accidentally ran an SD card through the washer and dryer, and it worked just fine afterward.

Aluminum tripod legs can be uncomfortable or even hazardous to touch when very cold (remember that classic scene in A Christmas Story, where a boy unfortunately takes a dare to touch his tongue to a frozen flagpole?). Wooden and carbon-fiber tripods reduce this problem (although carbon fiber can become brittle in very cold temperatures). But a simpler solution—especially if you don’t have a wooden or carbon-fiber tripod—is a tripod leg warmer (three of them, if you want to be able to grab any leg of the tripod). These are available from many tripod manufacturers and third-party sources such as LensCoat and AquaTech.

While pro and many higher-end “prosumer” DSLRs have weather sealing, none that we know of is warrantied against water damage. Many higher-end lenses also have some degree of weather sealing, but, again, aren’t warrantied against water damage. When using such gear in rain or snow, it’s wise to protect it with a plastic gear cover, such as those from ewa-marine, Kata and others. Op/Tech makes a variety of neoprene camera covers that help keep a DSLR warm and make it easier to handle on a cold day. LensCoat makes gear wraps that are also camouflaged, which is particularly nice if you’re photographing wildlife.

If you’ll be shooting in harsh conditions, it’s not a bad idea to take a waterproof/freezeproof/shockproof compact camera along as a backup. Such compacts actually are designed to be submerged in water to depths of 33 feet and beyond with many models and to handle very cold shooting conditions down to 14° F. They’re also hardy, withstanding drops from five feet or higher. While they don’t offer a DSLR’s versatility, these cameras do offer worry-free shooting in harsh conditions. Current examples of this category include the Canon PowerShot D30, Fujifilm FinePix XP70, Nikon Coolpix AW120, Olympus Stylus Tough TG-3, Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT5, Ricoh WG-30W and Sony Cyber-shot DSC-TX30.

A UV filter can provide protection for the front element of your lens. A polarizing filter can enhance snow shots, deepening a blue sky when used at right angles to the sun and reducing glare to bring out the snow texture. On a crisp, clear day at some altitudes, the polarizer will render a blue sky much darker than it does on warmer days, when there’s more humidity in the air. That dark blue look is prized among many professional photographers.

Today’s built-in TTL camera meters are excellent, but even they can be fooled by scenes containing large areas of snow in bright sunlight. There are a number of ways to deal with this. Simple: Use the standard multi-zone metering, and check the image on the LCD monitor (and its histogram) after shooting, and adjust exposure accordingly, if necessary. Simple: Use a spot meter, read an important sunlit snow area in the scene, increase exposure 2 to 3 stops from the metered exposure, and check the results on the LCD monitor/histogram. Simple: Use a handheld incident light meter, which reads the light falling on the scene and thus can’t be fooled by particularly bright or dark subjects or backgrounds. Excellent, but complex and requiring testing: Use a spot meter (or the spot-metering mode of your camera’s metering system) and the Zone System. The Sekonic L-478DR features touch-screen control, and it’s ideal for still and motion shooting.

We’ve all heard that most body heat is lost through the top of the head in cold weather. While that may or may not be true, a broad-brimmed hat is an important piece of gear for shooting outdoors in the winter. It helps keep snow out of your eyes and off your head, and you can use it to shield the camera if you don’t have a dedicated cover. A hat is also an excellent lens shade if you’re shooting close to the direction of the sun. If you’re wondering, Ansel Adams wore a Stetson Open Road hat. It’s still a good choice for a nature photographer.

Gore-Tex® fabrics keep rain and water out while allowing moisture from perspiration to escape. A Gore-Tex® jacket, pants and boots will keep you dry and warm. Of course, you should dress in layers, so you can remove or add items as temperatures change. Long underwear, a normal layer, then the Gore-Tex® outerwear is a good system. A fleece or down vest can provide added warmth, when needed.

A good cold weather camera bag will allow you to get to your gear without setting the bag down in the muck. See the Gadget Bag article in this issue of OP for a look at full-featured camera bags that don’t have to be set down to access the contents.

In harsh conditions, your gear will attract snow, rain, dust and more—more so than in “normal” shooting conditions. So it’s a good idea to carry a cleaning cloth and brush into the field with you. A small blower like the Giottos Rocket Blaster makes short work of unmelted snow. A microfiber towel can wipe off snow and rain, while a dedicated lens cloth is good for cleaning the front lens element and viewfinder eyepiece. A soft brush is also a good tool for brushing snow away without encouraging it to melt or otherwise smear on your gear.

It’s easier than you might think to become lost when shooting in inclement weather, especially if you’re in an area you don’t know well. Reduced visibility—which can happen even if the weather is good when you start out—can make navigating tricky. One good safety device is a GPS unit, which lets you keep track of your travels and get back to your starting point. Standalone GPS units are great for navigation. You can also link GPS units to many cameras to record position information (latitude, longitude, elevation and even the direction the camera is pointed) in each image’s metadata. There are GPS units designed specifically for this purpose, and a growing number of cameras even have GPS built in, including the Canon EOS 6D and 7D Mark II, Nikon D5300 and Sony SLT-A99 DSLRs.

Don’t breathe on a smudged viewfinder eyepiece or LCD monitor, and especially don’t do it on your lens. You can destroy the coating, permanently damaging the lens. In very cold weather, the LCD monitor may act erratically or even stop functioning; it should return to normal when you bring it back to normal temperature.

You’ve just built the perfect snowman: top hat, carrot nose, corncob pipe, the works. You whip your iPhone out to snap a photo for your Instagram feed, but the screen won"t come on. It was fully charged when you left the house, so what happened? Did the cold weather kill your phone?

While this scenario is bleak—the dead-as-a-brick phone, not your empty Instagram feed—there"s no reason to panic, says Matt McCormick, owner of Jet City Device Repair in Chicago and Seattle.

“In the winter, especially on iPhones, it’s easy to see your phone simply die if you’re standing out in freezing weather,” he says. “I personally had this happen a few years ago when I was hiking with some friends in Wisconsin. The cold weather made the phone unusable as long as I was outside.”

In fact, “bricked” phones aren’t as common as you may fear. In the traditional software sense, a phone “bricks” when “the hardware is perfectly fine but the software has the phone locked up and unusable,” McCormick says. The most common causes of that are when someone tries to jailbreak his or her phone—hack it to access its master files or install third party apps—or if someone stops an update partway through the process. Neither of those are weather dependent. (While a bug on the new iPhone X did cause the phone’s screen to freeze when exposed to cold weather, Apple has since released a software fix to solve the problem. Other times, catastrophic hardware failures can permanently brick phones.)

“However, we do frequently see phones that appear dead,” McCormick says. Some common causes of that include water damage, a broken or blocked charging port, and the occasional software glitch that prevents the screen from coming on. But the most destructive and widespread is a bad battery.

Rechargeable lithium-ion batteries, the kind used in iPhones, are vulnerable and volatile. According to Apple’s guidelines, iPhones should be used between 32°F and 95°F. Some tests suggest that the phones’ batteries can stop discharging electricity altogether when in frigid temperatures.

“Low- or high-temperature conditions might cause the device to change its behavior to regulate its temperate,” Apple says. “Using an iOS device in very cold conditions outside of its operating range might temporarily shorten battery life and could cause the device to turn off. Battery life will return to normal when you bring the device back to higher ambient temperatures.”

If your phone dies while you are in the cold weather, the solution is to keep your phone warm or warm it back up. That’s how McCormick ultimately revived his seemingly dead iPhone: He hiked inside.

To prevent this from happening when you’re outside, keep your phone in a sturdy case and store it close to your body—in a pants pocket, for example, instead of in a coat pocket. And while force-closing apps isn’t recommended for saving battery, it’s still a good idea to look at what’s using your power both onscreen and in the background. (You can check to see how much power your apps are using by following these instructions.)

If your phone screen still goes black, wait until you’re back inside and the phone has warmed up before trying to turn it on. Also, go easy on the charging while the phone is still cold—Battery University says never to charge consumer grade lithium-ion batteries in temperatures below freezing, which can cause permanent damage.

The Sony ZV-E10 is a 24MP APS-C mirrorless interchangeable lens camera aimed at vloggers. It features an articulating selfie screen with touch capability, 4K video capture, headphone and microphone ports and a variety of add-on accessories to assist in video capture, including the handgrip seen in the photo above (sold separately) and a range of sophisticated microphones.

Specification-wise, the ZV-E10 is familiar: everything from its sensor to its AF system to its video capability is the same as Sony"s entry-level a6100. But design and feature-wise, some significant differences set them apart. The ZV-E10 essentially the spirit of Sony"s ZV-1 vlogging compact scaled up as an entry-level APS-C ILC.

The Sony ZV-E10 will be available at the end of August, in either black or white, at a body-only price of $700. You can also pick one up kitted with the Sony 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 Power Zoom lens for $800.

More than just an a6100 without a viewfinder, the ZV-E10 sets out to make video capture a straightforward and high-quality affair. Let"s take a look at some of the features and modes that make this possible, many of which were first introduced in the compact Sony ZV-1:

The ZV-E10 shoots oversampled 4K video at 24 and 30p. There"s a noticeable crop in the 30p mode (1.23x, the same as the a6100), but no crop when shooting 24p.

Unlike the a6100, the ZV-E10 gets Sony"s Cinema Picture Profiles, of which there are ten different options. These profiles offer the ability to shoot a low contrast look for grading in post. The camera also offers S-Log 2 and 3, as well as HLG capture. But keep in mind, this is an 8-bit camera, and S-Log 3 and HLG footage will more readily fall apart a bit when graded, compared to a 10-bit camera.

A multi-interface shoe on the top left of the camera body supports digital audio. And Sony has several different microphone options that work with this proprietary means of connection, including the recently announced ECM-W2BT wireless mics, as well as several shotgun-style options.

Additionally, the camera has a built-in directional 3-capsule microphone, which provides pretty decent quality audio (when vlogging in selfie mode), for those wishing to avoid the purchase of additional accessories. Furthermore, the ZV-E10 ships with a hot-shoe-attachable windscreen (also known as a "dead cat").

There"s no sensor-shift image stabilization in the ZV-E10 but electronic shake reduction is available, and optical IS is supported via Sony"s OSS-equipped lenses. During video capture, users can choose between "Active" and "Standard" stabilization modes. The former, which is the default, uses digital IS + optical IS to smooth things out but comes with a hefty crop factor of 1.44x.

The standard IS mode simply relies on optical stabilization (and is less effective), but also doesn"t have a crop factor, which is helpful if you"re trying to maintain a wide field-of-view for vlogging.

The ZV-E10 is capable of streaming live audio and video when connected to a WiFi-enabled device via USB-C. It supports UVC/UAC standards and can transmit up to a 720p stream depending on the device it"s connected to. You can also use Sony"s Imaging Edge app – available for desktop and mobile devices – to set up a livestream, but the quality will be a bit lower (576p).

Setting up a USB livestream from the camera is fairly straightforward. On the first page of the second shooting menu, you"ll find a "USB streaming" option. Simply turn this option on, connect the camera via USB-C to a smart device or computer and open your livestreaming platform of choice. I was successfully able to get a livestream from the camera set up and was broadcasting in minutes by connecting the ZV-E10 to my MacBook Pro and using Facebook Live.

Speaking of Imaging Edge, it can be used to view and transfer movies and stills (including Raws) from the camera, even when the camera is turned off. The ZV-E10 will also save metadata with vertical video clips, so if you do transfer them to a mobile device, they"ll display correctly.

The Product Showcase feature was first introduced in the ZV-1 and is pretty darn handy. When switched on, the camera will automatically prioritize nearby objects, over its face detection system, resulting in a smooth focus shift from face to product. It"s a simple and effective way to create a slick effect while vlogging. You can see a demonstration of the feature in action in the video above.

By default, the "C1" button on the top of the Sony ZV-E10 toggles the "Background Defocus" function on and off. This feature, aimed at beginners, simply opens up the aperture all the way when pressed. Unfortunately, in bright light, this will often force the camera to use a fast shutter speed to compensate, resulting in somewhat choppy, jarring-looking video footage. Furthermore, this is not a function you"ll want to switch on during capture, because there"s an exposure "flutter" when the button is pressed.

Sony"s Soft Skin effect has been around for a while now, and it does exactly what it sounds like. Users can set the effect to low, mid, or high (or off). The lower two settings do a pretty decent job of smoothing one"s face, without looking unnatural, but the high setting is a bit much.

It"s worth pointing out, this feature is available when shooting both stills and video. You can see an example of it, set to "low" in the vlogging demo further down the page.

Both the Canon EOS M50 Mark II and Fujifilm X-T200 are strong competitors in this market segment. Let"s see how the three cameras stack up against one another across a variety of specifications. And for the sake of comparison, we"re also including the ZV-E10"s two nearest siblings in the a6100 and Sony ZV-1:

On paper, the ZV-E10 has a lot going for it: It offers the best battery life of the bunch, shoots uncropped 4K/24p, and is the only camera listed with a standard 3.5mm microphone and a headphone port. It also offers the best video AF, alongside the ZV-1, including a vlogging-specific focus mode. Of course, if having an EVF matters to you, the Fujifilm X-T200 will probably be a better choice.

On the top plate of the ZV-E10 (left), you"ll find the hot shoe/multi-interface shoe for connecting a flash or microphone. As mentioned, the shoe supports digital audio and certain Sony microphones will work without the need to plug into the 3.5mm jack (located on the side of the body).

Next to the hot shoe there"s the built-in microphone, on/off switch and a button that allows users to quickly switch between stills mode, video mode and high-speed video mode (called S&Q mode for "slow and quick") with a tap of the finger. Unfortunately, all camera settings carry over when you change modes, meaning you may find yourself adjusting your shutter speed or aperture fairly dramatically if you"re using manual controls. The camera also has an oversized record button in addition to a separate shutter button.

Around the shutter button, there"s a zoom lever with 8 programmable zoom speeds: this is the first Sony consumer ILC with a zoom lever since 2014"s a5100. You"ll also find the programmable "background defocus/C1" button on the top plate: pressing it simply forces the camera to shoot with the widest aperture possible. For more advanced users that are comfortable controlling aperture themselves, this button"s function can be reassigned to something more useful.

The ZV-E10, like the a6100, has two control dials: one on the top plate, the other on the rear. We don"t love this design choice because both dials are controlled with the same thumb, meaning you have to shift your hand each time you want to adjust one or the other.

The rear control dial has four clickable positions, all of which can be customized. By default, they provide access (from the top moving clockwise) to the display settings, ISO settings, exposure compensation, and the drive mode. The Fn (function) button, which pulls up the quick access "function menu" by default, can also be customized, as can the trash can button (which is set to Product Showcase mode by default).

It"s worth noting that all the customizable buttons can be set up differently for stills, video and playback modes. And the 12-slot function menu can also be customized separately for stills and video shooting.

Unlike the a6100, the ZV-E10 has a fully articulating rear display (3", 1.44M-dot). It"s touch-sensitive, but not all that responsive. While vlogging, I found it hugely helpful that a large red rectangle appears around the frame on the LCD, to indicate video capture is occurring. The camera also features a front video record/tally lamp to make sure you know when you"re "rolling" (this can be turned off).

For the most part, touch capability only works when shooting video and stills. Users cannot use the touchscreen to browse the menus, select options from the function menu, or browse images/videos in playback. It can, however, be used to zoom in to 100% on an image in playback, by double-tapping the screen.

On the side of the camera, beneath a somewhat flimsy-feeling plastic door, you"ll find the majority of the camera"s connection points including a USB 3.2 Gen1 port (which can be used for charging), a micro-HDMI port, and a 3.5mm headphone port. Beneath a separate door, above, you"ll find a connection point for a 3.5mm microphone jack.

The microphone socket is well-placed and having a unit plugged in does not get in the way of articulating the screen; the headphone, HDMI and USB ports, however, do.

The battery and memory card are accessed via the same slot on the bottom of the camera. Power comes from an NP-FW50 battery and users can expect a CIPA-rated 440 shots per charge or 80 mins of continuous video capture. In real-world use, we found you can easily surpass both of those figures by about 1.5X. The card slot supports UHS-I speed cards; UHS-II cards are compatible, but you won"t get any additional speed benefit from using them.

The ZV-E10 offers a rudimentary Auto ISO implementation, inconsistent with the most recent Sony ILC"s (though the same as the a6100). Users can only dial in an upper and lower ISO limit but have no control over the chosen shutter speed from the Auto ISO settings. Most other Sony ILCs allow users to select a minimum shutter speed or speed threshold, but that option is absent here.

The ZV-E10 did not receive Sony"s latest menu implementation either. Rather, the menus are consistent with those on the a6100. Settings aren"t all that well organized and are a bit cluttered, but thankfully users can save their most-needed settings to the customizable "My Menu" page for easy access.

When held in a standard orientation (not selfie mode), the grip feels a bit shallow in hand and is less comfortable. That said, as a whole, the body feels very well-weighted. There"s no weather-sealing, but the build quality seems decent enough, aside from the flimsy port door.

The Sony GP-VPTBT Bluetooth shooting grip ($100) is compatible with the ZV-E10 and makes video capture/vlogging even more enjoyable and painless. It also doubles as a (very) small tripod.

Video capability is obviously the biggest selling point of this camera. Below, we dive into the various video captures modes and we"ll take a look at video quality.

Both the camera"s 1080/120p capture and 4K/30p capture come with slight crops, 1.14x and 1.23x, respectively. All the other video settings use the full width of the sensor (unless "Active" IS is turned on). Below you can see just how extreme the crops are (thankfully, they"re not too bad):

Overall, the camera handles pretty well as a vlogging tool. The onboard microphone provides decent quality audio, even as I stepped outside near a very noisy highway. The 4K/24p video + Standard IS combo uses the full width of the sensor, so I was able to leave the kit lens zoomed all the way out to a 24mm equiv. I also left the camera in its Program exposure mode with the default "Wide" AF area option (AF-C). The camera handles the changing light conditions with ease: there are no jarring aperture flutters. And I remained in focus throughout the clip, with minimal hunting, despite moving around quite a bit.

My only real complaint here is that there"s quite a bit of rolling shutter in shots with any movement, resulting in a distracting "jello" effect. More on that below.

When shooting 4K video, the ZV-E10 displays a fairly noticeable and distracting jello effect (the result of rolling shutter) when a shot is panned quickly or a fast-moving subject enters the frame – the effect is most noticeable when shooting 4K/24p and slightly less apparent when shooting cropped 4K/30p. Rolling shutter is less of a problem for Full HD footage.

We measured the readout rate of the sensor when shooting in the ZV-E10"s main video modes, and sure enough, the readout rate for 4K/24p is slow enough to result in very pronounced rolling shutter artifacts. 4K/30p is a bit better, so if you opt for a wider-angle lens than the kit, you may want to shoot in that mode. If you"re content with 1080p footage, rolling shutter isn"t much of problem, but you may not be a fan of the quality, which we"ll look at next.

In our opinion, the ZV-E10"s closest competitor is the Fujifilm X-T200. Seeing as it offers the same video performance as the higher-end X-T30, we"ll use that camera as a stand-in for comparison purposes. UHD 4K capture from both these cameras is impressively detailed, across the whole scene. Though it"s worth noting (and not obvious from our studio scene), the Fujifilm has a faster sensor scan rate than the Sony and thus doesn"t suffer from the same distracting jello effect.

Back to 4K detail: the Sony blows the Canon EOS M50 (and thus the M50 Mark II, which has identical video capabilities) out of the water, in terms of the quality of 4K capture (and the Canon uses a heavily cropped region of the sensor in 4K). And the ZV-E10"s 4K footage even looks solid next to the higher-end, full-frame Sony a7 III. But in terms of detail capture, the a7 III will still produce cleaner footage in less-than-perfect light.

Unfortunately, the camera"s Full HD footage is less than spectacular (which has been par for the course with Sony APS-C cameras for some time). Detail capture is nowhere near the level we"re seeing from Fujifilm cameras. And 1080/120p footage, which uses a crop of the sensor, looks even more mushy.

The ZV-E10 uses the same outstanding autofocus system as Sony"s most-recent a6000-series siblings, with 425 PDAF points and 84% sensor coverage. It also offers the same highly reliable face and eye detection functionality, which Sony has dubbed "Real Time Tracking". Unlike the majority of Sony"s competitors, these features are well integrated into the AF user interface. For example, when your chosen AF point overlaps with a human subject, face/eye detection will kick in automatically – it will then disengage automatically when the AF point is moved away from a human face.

For vlogging purposes, when using the default "Wide" focus area and AF-C, the camera does a good job adjusting focus and keeping human faces sharp; face and eye detection are on by default. You can also tap the screen in the Wide focus mode to initiate tracking during video capture. The tracking is fairly sticky and reliable. To disable it, press the button in the center of the rear control dial.

There"s quite a bit of control offered over video AF behavior from within the menus. Users can adjust both the AF transition speed (how smoothly the camera changes focus from one subject to another), as well as the tracking responsiveness (how likely the camera"s AF will stick with a subject, even if they briefly leave the frame). There are seven degrees of adjustments to choose from for each setting.

Image quality from Sony"s ZV-E10 24MP is identical to that of the Sony a6100, which is to say, excellent. JPEGs show attractive color and excellent detail retention, even at higher iSO values. Raw performance is also quite good, offering a good degree of latitude for editing, though Raw files are compressed in a "lossy" fashion and extreme edits may turn up some artifacts.

As a vlogging platform, the ZV-E10 has quite a bit to offer: good quality oversampled and uncropped 4K/24p capture, headphone and microphones ports, a selfie touchscreen, a high-quality onboard vlogging microphone, industry-leading video AF performance, painless livestreaming capability and best-in-class battery life. But it also falls short in two key areas regarding video quality: poor rolling shutter performance in 4K and subpar Full HD footage, both of which are complaints we"ve leveled against every recent a6000-series camera.

Let"s return to the good before jumping back to the bad: from a body design and control standpoint, the ZV-E10 makes a lot of sense. The camera offers excellent customization and handles fairly well as a videomaking tool. The onboard microphone offers pleasantly good audio. And though the touchscreen is not the most responsive and somewhat limited in its use, as a means of quickly selecting an AF point, it works well enough.

Speaking of AF, the camera"s face end eye detection work extremely well during both stills and video capture. The product showcase feature is also really cool/useful for vloggers. And though there are a lot of autofocus options built into this camera, the default settings, including the Wide area mode should serve most folks quite well.

Image quality is a match for Sony"s more stills-oriented a6100, which is to say, quite good. And though there"s no in-body stabilization to speak of, the camera does offer two degrees of electronic IS when in video mode (one comes with a crop, but is also more effective). The kit lens also has optical stabilization to assist in handheld shooting. 4K footage is oversampled and shows excellent detail; there"s a 1.23x crop in 30p mode but no crop when shooting 24p.

Now back to the bad: When capturing 4K footage with any sort of movement (like walking with the camera), there"s quite a lot of rolling shutter, resulting in a distracting jello effect. Full HD footage can be captured up to 120p ( also 24/30/60p), but unfortunately, the quality of the camera"s 1080p detail capture is, across the board, among the worst in its class.

So where does that leave us? It leaves us with a camera that"s really close to being a vlogger"s dream, both in terms of price and feature set. Sadly, for folks wishing to shoot anything but a static shot, there"s no video mode on this camera that"ll produce problem-free footage: jiggly 4K or subpar 1080p, pick your poison. Of course, if you"re happy to swallow both those pills, the ZV-E10 is a heck of a camera.

For vlogging, we"d take the Fujifilm X-T200 over the ZV-E10 because the rolling shutter is much better controlled during 4K capture. Neither camera shoots jaw-dropping Full HD footage, but the Fujifilm"s is a bit better. The X-T200 also offers an EVF. On the other hand, Sony offers better video autofocus on the whole; there"s no subject tracking option during video capture with the Fujifilm. It also offers a better onboard microphone for vlogging.

Compared to the Canon EOS M50 II, we"d take the Sony for quite a few reasons. The quality of its 4K footage is far superior (and the M50 II crops its 4K footage really heavily), and the Sony has an edge in video autofocus as well. The Sony also has better battery life and a headphone jack.

Compared to theSony ZV-1, it"s a bit of a toss-up, but we"re leaning toward the compact camera: The rolling shutter is much better controlled on the ZV-1 and its built-in lens is arguably more versatile than the kit 16-50mm lens that comes with the ZV-E10. The ZV-1 sensor is obviously smaller, but the video quality is still outstanding (though it lacks a headphone jack).

For a one-stop-shop vlogging solution, we"d take the compact. But if you have hopes of building out a system / acquiring a second or third lens, the ZV-E10 is the obvious choice. After all, there"s plenty of fast-aperture prime lens options available for Sony crop sensor cameras, at affordable prices. And you"ll ultimately be able to get a much more shallow depth of field look with the ZV-E10 than the ZV-1. It"s also a better choice if you plan to shoot in less-than-perfect light.

Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category. Click here to learn about the changes to our scoring system and what these numbers mean.

As a vlogging platform, the ZV-E10 seemingly has a lot to offer: it shoots oversampled 4K/24p video using the full width of its sensor, features a selfie touchscreen, a good built-in directional microphone, headphone/microphone ports and class-leading video autofocus. Battery life is also top of its class and the camera is livestream ready, out of the box. Unfortunately, 4K video capture results in a distracting "jello effect" for clips with movement and/or fast action. And Full HD video shows poor detail capture compared to the competition.

An organic light-emitting diode (OLED or organic LED), also known as organic electroluminescent (organic EL) diode,light-emitting diode (LED) in which the emissive electroluminescent layer is a film of organic compound that emits light in response to an electric current. This organic layer is situated between two electrodes; typically, at least one of these electrodes is transparent. OLEDs are used to create digital displays in devices such as television screens, computer monitors, and portable systems such as smartphones and handheld game consoles. A major area of research is the development of white OLED devices for use in solid-state lighting applications.

There are two main families of OLED: those based on small molecules and those employing polymers. Adding mobile ions to an OLED creates a light-emitting electrochemical cell (LEC) which has a slightly different mode of operation. An OLED display can be driven with a passive-matrix (PMOLED) or active-matrix (AMOLED) control scheme. In the PMOLED scheme, each row and line in the display is controlled sequentially, one by one,thin-film transistor (TFT) backplane to directly access and switch each individual pixel on or off, allowing for higher resolution and larger display sizes.

OLED is fundamentally different from LED which is based on a p-n diode structure. In LEDs doping is used to create p- and n- regions by changing the conductivity of the host semiconductor. OLEDs do not employ a p-n structure. Doping of OLEDs is used to increase radiative efficiency by direct modification of the quantum-mechanical optical recombination rate. Doping is additionally used to determine the wavelength of photon emission.

An OLED display works without a backlight because it emits its own visible light. Thus, it can display deep black levels and can be thinner and lighter than a liquid crystal display (LCD). In low ambient light conditions (such as a dark room), an OLED screen can achieve a higher contrast ratio than an LCD, regardless of whether the LCD uses cold cathode fluorescent lamps or an LED backlight. OLED displays are made in the same way as LCDs, but after TFT (for active matrix displays), addressable grid (for passive matrix displays) or indium-tin oxide (ITO) segment (for segment displays) formation, the display is coated with hole injection, transport and blocking layers, as well with electroluminescent material after the first 2 layers, after which ITO or metal may be applied again as a cathode and later the entire stack of materials is encapsulated. The TFT layer, addressable grid or ITO segments serve as or are connected to the anode, which may be made of ITO or metal.transparent displays being used in smartphones with optical fingerprint scanners and flexible displays being used in foldable smartphones.

André Bernanose and co-workers at the Nancy-Université in France made the first observations of electroluminescence in organic materials in the early 1950s. They applied high alternating voltages in air to materials such as acridine orange dye, either deposited on or dissolved in cellulose or cellophane thin films. The proposed mechanism was either direct excitation of the dye molecules or excitation of electrons.

In 1960, Mar