ender 3 lcd screen made in china

At first I hadn’t considered that I’d flashed the firmware. I was under the impression that you needed an Arduino and a bunch of cables to do that. That was in fact the case with the original Ender.

However, since the arrival of the Ender V-2, both the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro models ship with a motherboard which can flash firmware via the SD slot.

At first I hadn’t considered that I’d flashed the firmware. I was under the impression that you needed an Arduino and a bunch of cables to do that. That was in fact the case with the original Ender.

However, since the arrival of the Ender V-2, both the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro models ship with a motherboard which can flash firmware via the SD slot.

The LCD display controller module is a perfect fit for your Ender-3/Ender-3s/Ender-3 Pro and other 3D Printers. It is very easy to install and you can replace your problematic displays with this brand new LCD display.

There have been numerous reports of new Ender 3 V2 printers being upgraded to Bugfix and are unable to change the LCD language from Chinese to English after the flash.

Flashing a version built on 2020-09-15 allows the screen language to be changed - and any further updates to newer bugfix nightlies will correctly operate when changing the language of the LCD.

JGMaker Magic is ready to compete with popular alternatives, such as the Ender 3 Pro. At a glance, these printers look very similar in both shape and size. At a closer look, you’ll find some features that JGMaker has that are not available on the Ender 3 and other 3D printers at the same price point.

After building the JGMaker Magic 3D printer, we were impressed with the quality of prints right out of the box. It required little to no calibration and tweaking, thanks to its semi-auto leveling feature. All in all, the JGMaker Magic 3D printer is an extraordinary 3D Printer for beginners looking to purchase one in the sub-$200 price range. For more expensive printers, see the other 3D Printers we recommend.

There are a few features that really make the JGMaker Magic 3D printer stand out from other printers in this price range. The auto-feeding technology makes it easy for beginners to load and unload filament. In addition, the filament detection sensor will pause and save the printing from running out of filament during the printing process. Typically, filament detection is only found on $500+ printers, and we’re impressed with how well it works on Magic.

The 3D Printer is easy to assemble, although the manual did not come in the box and had to be viewed or downloaded online. The dual Y-axis railprovides Magic with a stable print bed, something that often becomes a problem with affordable 3D printers.

The spool holder sits on the right, which is something that may be a problem for some, particularly if you’re planning to put this 3D printer in a full enclosure. However, this design does allow you to replace the filament quickly. Worst case, one could always 3D print a top-load spool holder that sits on the top gantry, mimicking the other 3D printers in this price range.

There are certainly better 3D printers available on the market, but few come close to the quality and ease of use at this price point (less than $200). This printer may require some upgrades to the build platform, which is not magnetic, but they also sell an Ultrabase glass bed upgrade kit on their site.

Never worry about your filament running out in the middle of a 3D Print. The Magic includes a filament sensor that will detect the filament and pause the printer before it completely runs out. This allows you to swap filaments and resume printing, saving any prints that were currently in process.

Entry-level 3D printers, especially the cheap ones, run the risk of catching fire due to their cheap components and often lack of quality control. Fortunately, the Magic will put your mind at ease as it includes thermal runaway protection, which prevents the print temperature from getting out of control (it will shut off once it reaches a specific temperature).

Power-outages are the enemy of additive manufacturing, especially with 3D printers. Fortunately, Magic includes a feature that will resume printing where the last print was stopped due to a power shortage. Such a feature is not new or unique to 3D printers, but it is typically not included with printers at this price point.

Entry-level printers often catch flack for their lack of rigidity. However, the Magic is one of the few to include a dual Y-axis rail on top of its all-metal base. This was one of the most rigid 3D printers we’ve built/used, and we’re impressed with the printing accuracy.

Although Magic does not have a fully automated leveling function, it does include an easy-to-use leveling process that will help you level the build (print) platform. By moving to 5 critical points (four corners and the center) it will make it easy to quickly level your build platform, without having to run custom G-code, as required by the Ender 3 printers

The JGMaker Magic 3D Printer is technically considered a kit because it does not come fully assembled. That said, the “kit” is a far-stretch, as it requires very little assembly, allowing you to be up and running in no time.

Some printers, including the Prusa i3 MK3S, come as kits or are fully assembled. On average, a Prusa kit will take about 8 hours to assemble. Contrary, the Magic printer took only 20 minutes.

The base of the 3D printer comes pre-assembled. You’ll be required to assembly the X and Z gantries, followed by attaching the Extruder to the Z gantry. With the provided instructions (online), we found this process to be quick and easy.

For us, the belt assembly was the only part that took a second glance. The pictures included in the instructions were not the clearest and we had to figurine out how the belt clamped together using experience from other 3D printers. This could be a challenge for someone brand new to 3D printing or CNC machines in general.

Unfortunately, the JGMaker Magic 3D printer is new to the market so you will not find much assembly content on YouTube or elsewhere. In such cases, you may be able to reference an Ender 3 assembly video, or a similar printer, to get past any assembly hurdles.

The JGMaker Magic 3D printer is a well-built “tank” compared to other 3D printers in its price-point. We found this printer’s base to be well-built compared to the Ender 3, which often receives complaints about their wobbly base.

The LCD panel and control knob are well manufactured and intuitive when compared to other entry-level 3D printers. We found this control knob to be the sturdiness and most-sleek design out there, as many other printers we’ve tried have a 3D printed knob or one that makes it challenging to select menu items.

Lastly, we found the 3D Printer to be about average in terms of sound output while running. There are definitely 3D Printers that are loud (looking at you MakerBot), but Magic is comparable and bearable for anyone getting into a beginner-friendly 3D printer.

As someone who has been 3D printing for nearly 10 years, I was impressed with the quality of the first print. I leveled the build platform once and the first test print, which was the included cube, came out extremely well.

The temperature settings could certainly be tweaked to get a “crisper” edge, but the layer adhesion, accuracy, and the rest of the 3D print were all successful.

The JGMaker Magic 3D Printer will work with any slicer, including the popular Utimlaker Cura (that we recommend). We could not find a pre-made Printer Profile (for Cura) online that included the best settings for this printer, but due to its closeness to similar printers, you can follow recommended print settings for the Crearlity Ender 3.

Despite boasting mid-level features and a relatively capable 3D printer, the JGMaker Magic 3D Printer is available for a retail price of under $200. While the 3D printer certainly has some cons, this price makes it a bargain for anyone looking to get their first 3D Printer.

After spending some time assembling and printing on the JGMaker Magic 3D printer, we feel confident to recommend this machine to anyone on a budget or anyone who is looking to get their first FDM (FFF) 3D Printer.

There are many 3D Printer options out there, but few come close to including the number of high-quality features for this price point and friendly user experience.

In this article, we’ll pit the Creality Ender 3 Neo against the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, two of the most recent upgrades to the Ender 3 Series 3D printers from Creality, and find out which one is the best purchase for a beginner 3D printing enthusiast.

In keeping with tradition, the newest upgrades to the Ender line—the Ender 3 Neo series—have once again managed to combine impressive performance, affordability, simple design, and ease of use in their devices. They give entry-level users everything they need to create excellent quality 3D prints and enjoy a superior learning experience.

However, not all Neo series 3D printers are built the same. On the lower end, the base Creality Ender 3 Neo (Amazon link) costs about $240 while the mid-tier Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo (Amazon link) is typically in the $320 range. If you are looking for a higher-end printer, we encourage you to take a look at the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro (Amazon link), which offers more features such as a direct drive extruder and premium build surface.

If you are looking for the most affordable Ender 3 that still has most modern features, these two 3D printers are worth considering. In this article, we’ll compare these two lower-end models, the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo, with each other to help you figure out if the latter is worth the extra price.

The Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo share many similarities. In fact, both 3D printers received some of the same upgrades from the previous generation of Ender 3 printers, such as:CR Touch Auto Leveling System

The Ender 3 Neo is an update to the Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. It retains much of the form, function, and philosophy of the Ender 3 Pro, while making some notable updates without steeply pushing the price upward. Users get everything they loved about the Ender 3 Pro, along with some great new features, without having to pay much more.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo similarly upgrades the Ender 3 V2. By and large, the V2 Neo offers the same functionality and features as the V2, with the biggest improvements being in terms of ease of setup and ease of use. Creality has made an effort to make this 3D printer as beginner-friendly as possible. In fact, it might just be one of the easiest 3D printers to get started with in its price segment.

Both of these 3D printers include significant updates from their predecessors. Now, let’s take a closer look at some of the common features shared by the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo.

Both the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo feature a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, which is the standard size on most Ender 3 printers, including the previous non-Neo versions of these printers. It’s slightly larger than the 200 mm cube that most entry-level 3D printers offer, but the slight increase in size is beneficial in a few ways. First, these 3D printers occupy almost the same desktop area as their smaller cousins, meaning you won’t need to clear off a large desk space to use them. Second, the enlarged Z-axis allows 3D printing of models with a taller profile. With some creative planning, you can also print wider 3D prints alongside the Z-axis.

Although the two Neo printers share the same build volume, they do not have the same physical dimensions. The Ender 3 Neo has a total size of 440×440×465mm, while the Ender 3 V2 Neo’s dimensions are 438×424×472mm.

Creality says that the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo both feature a v4.2.7 32-bit silent mainboard. However, the v4.2.7 appears functionally identical to the v4.2.2 on older models, albeit with some minor tweaks in stepper motor wiring to suppress noise production. So, don’t expect any performance enhancements over the v4.2.2 mainboard on the older machines.

Since the Ender 3 V2 also featured the v4.2.2 mainboard, the Ender 3 V2 Neo can only boast of a marginal reduction in noise, and although this does make a difference in perceived volume, it won’t be a significant difference. On the other hand, if you’re coming from an original Creality Ender 3, these new silent mainboards are significantly quieter than that older printer—you’d definitely notice and appreciate the difference.

The Cartesian-XZ design is the standard on most Ender 3 printers, and the Ender 3 Neo and V2 Neo are no exception. They also feature an integrated side LCD display and controller, although the screens are different on the two printers (more on this later).

The inclusion of a full-metal, single-gear Bowden extruder is a very welcome upgrade that the two printers have received as part of the Neo update. The metal extruder increases the extrusion force and makes jams less likely, a common concern with plastic extruders in the older models that these 3D printers are replacing. This extruder does not offer all of the benefits of the dual gear extruders found on more premium printers like the CR-10 Pro, however we have found that it works very well and is a definite improvement over the plastic extruders in the older models.

The biggest addition in the Neo series is automatic bed leveling as a standard feature. Creality has now made their CR-Touch automatic bed leveling system the new standard among low-end 3D printers by installing it on both the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo. The CR-Touch probe automatically probes 16 different points on the bed to identify potential unevenness on the platform and uses that information to automatically adjust the bed during the printing process.

Not only does this eliminate the hassle of manual leveling, but it also produces a cleaner, more accurate first layer, which is vital for the overall quality and bed adhesion of the 3D print. This is also a great feature if you are new to 3D printing, since leveling the bed takes a bit of practice, but even as experienced users we appreciate this feature.

Despite the updated enclosure, the Ender 3 Neo series uses a single part cooling fan just like the earlier Ender 3 series printers, which only blows air on one side of the nozzle. The enclosure features a symmetric design, which makes it appear to have a fan on both sides, but it actually has a single fan located on the right side. This part cooling system is able to handle most overhangs, but does not perform quite as well as the dual fan part cooling on the Creality Ender 3 Max, or the larger fan on the Creality Ender 3 S1 series.

Most Ender 3 models, including the Neo series, use a Bowden extruder, which is separate from the hot end and feeds filament through a Bowden tube to the hot end.

Both printers use a standard hot end that is not a full metal design, meaning that the nozzle temperature is limited to 260 °C like previous printers in the Ender 3 series. The build platform can heat up to 100 °C. These are sufficient temperatures for printing most standard materials, including PLA, PETG, and ABS. These temperatures also allow for TPU, but the Bowden extruder setup makes printing with flexible materials more difficult, and we recommend choosing a printer with direct drive like the Ender 3 S1 if you are looking to print flexible materials.

Thepower recovery feature is a convenient feature that is now standard on the Ender 3 Neo series. It protects your work-in-progress 3D prints against interruptions due to power outages. You can resume the 3D printing from where it stopped and continue the process without any hiccups. If your power is out for an extended period of time, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to resume the print because the bed will have cooled and released the partially-printed model, but if you live in an area with frequent power hiccups, this feature can save your in-progress prints.

So far, we’ve seen how similar the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo are in various aspects. But, the Ender 3 V2 Neo is more expensive than the Ender 3 Neo, so what do you get for the added cost? We’ll cover the differences between the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo in this section.

The PC-coated flexible magnetic spring steel build plate on the Ender 3 V2 Neo offers excellent adhesion and a hassle-free usage experience. A little flex of the bed material is all it takes to separate the 3D prints. The smooth bed surface requires little to no cleaning. However, the bed surface is more susceptible to damage than other materials, and it can be difficult to remove prints in some cases.

We actually prefer the carborundum bed on the Ender 3 Neo since it is more difficult to damage when removing prints. The carborundum sticks firmly at hot temperatures, but after it cools down, the prints come off with ease. However, it is important to clean this type of bed with a wet towel every so often to ensure good adhesion.

The Ender 3 Neo uses a carborundum glass bed, which provides great adhesion when hot and allows easy part removal when cooled. It’s important to keep it clean to maintain adhesion.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo uses a magnetic PC steel bed, which has great adhesion, but is more difficult to remove parts from. This type of bed is also more susceptible to damage than the carborundum bed.

Although both Neo printers feature a side-mounted LCD screen, that’s where the similarities end for the screens. The lower-end Ender 3 Neo uses a 3-inch monochrome LCD screen with limited graphics capabilities. On the other hand, the Ender 3 V2 Neo uses a larger a 4.3-inch screen that is capable of displaying more colors and a nicer, more graphical UI. However, neither printer has a touch screen, with both being operated with a single knob that presses in to select items.

One other difference worth noting is that the more premium printer, the Ender 3 V2 Neo, allows you to preview the sliced model on the LCD screen before 3D printing. This is a nice feature that makes it much more clear which model you are printing when you select a file to print.

The Ender 3 Neo requires a substantial amount of work to assemble, even though Creality ships it partially assembled. Out of the box, it takes at least an hour to assemble and set up, and may take longer if you are not experienced with 3D printers.

In contrast, the 3-step assembly of the Ender 3 V2 Neo makes it drastically easier to set up. In fact, you’ll have it up and running in less than 15 minutes. This is a major improvement of the Ender 3 V2 Neo over the Ender 3 Neo, especially for beginners or those of us who are impatient and want to use our new 3D printers as quickly as possible.

There are a few other minor differences between the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo, which are not dealmakers or dealbreakers in themselves. Still, they are some nice-to-haves for the more premium model. These include an integrated toolbox and belt tensioners, which add to the improved usability and polish of the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

Interestingly, the Ender 3 Neo one-ups the Ender 3 V2 Neo in one area: the user interface supports 9 languages, including English, Spanish, German, Chinese, and others, while the Ender 3 V2 supports only English and Chinese.

In our opinion, both the Creality Ender 3 Neo (Amazon link) and the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo (Amazon link) are capable entry-level 3D printers featuring advanced features at a surprisingly low price point. Overall, the similarities between them outnumber the differences, and the quality of the prints they produce is identical too.

The main area where the Ender 3 V2 Neo really outshines the Ender 3 Neo is in terms of usability and getting started experience. Whether it’s assembling the printer, operating it, or maintaining it, the Ender 3 V2 Neo is an easier machine to work with. We think that these features are worth the extra $80 price difference, especially if you are new to 3D printing.

That said, if your budget is constrained and you don’t mind tinkering with gadgets, then the Ender 3 Neo is a great buy too. It’s definitely not a compromise in terms of print quality or performance.

We hope you have a better idea what you are getting with the Creality Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo and feel more prepared to make a decision. Here’s a full recap to summarize:

If you’d like to compare other printers, take a look at our 3D Printer Comparison Tool. This tool lets you view multiple 3D printers side by side to easily compare features.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 is a great 3D printer with a number of features that weren"t available before in 3D printers at this price point. Its few shortcomings are relatively minor complaints in the grand scheme of things, and overall we think the Ender 3 S1 is an impressive machine that offers good value for the money.

With its Ender 3 series, Creality established itself as a reliable and affordable entry-level 3D printer manufacturer. The Ender 3 S1 is the company’s latest offering, and it looks to improve upon its predecessors by including a number of new features while still maintaining an attractive price point.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 is a 3D printer that usesfused deposition modeling (FDM) technology. FDM is what most hobbyist 3D printers use. It’s an additive manufacturing process in which a filament is melted and extruded through a nozzle to create a three-dimensional object layer by layer.

FDM stands in contrast with resin printing, which is the other main type of 3D printing technology. Resin printing uses a liquid resin that is cured with ultraviolet light to create objects layer by layer.

FDM printers, like the Ender 3 S1, are often favored over resin printers because of their easier operation, wider material choice, and larger print volume.

If your 3D printing requirements involve precision and detail, you might be better off with aresin 3D printer. If not, keep on reading this Ender 3 S1 review!

As is starting to become more common with hobbyist 3D printers nowadays, the Ender 3 S1 is shipped partially assembled in a foam-packed box. The benefit of this is that you don’t have to do as much work to get the printer up and running. However, it does add a bit to the overall cost of the printer since you’re essentially paying someone else to do part of the assembly for you.

In short, everything you need to get started with 3D printing is included in the box. The only thing you’ll need to purchase separately is filament. The included sample filament is a nice touch, but it is not going to last you very long.

As we mentioned, the Ender 3 S1 ships partially assembled. The majority of the assembly work has already been done for you, which makes things much easier. However, there are still a few steps that you need to do in order to get the printer up and running.

The first thing you need to do is attach the Z-axis gantry to the base of the Ender 3 S1. This is done by threading four M5 screws through the bottom of the printer base and into the gantry.

Next, you need to attach the extruder assembly. This is done by clipping the extruder on the X-axis carriage and screwing in the included 4 M3 bolts to secure it.

Lastly, make sure that the voltage selector switch on the power supply is set to the correct voltage for your region (230V or 110V). Having this set to the wrong voltage can damage the power supply and/or the Ender 3 S1 itself, so make sure to double-check.

There is a bit more to do before you can start 3D printing. To our surprise, these steps are not covered in the quick start guide. We highly recommend following the steps below to make sure that your Ender 3 S1 works optimally.

On our Ender 3 S1, the belt on the X-axis gantry was not tightened at all from the factory. We found that we needed to tighten it by a couple of turns in order to achieve proper belt tension. The Y-axis belt, on the other hand, did have the correct amount of tension.

It is likely that our Ender S1 is not the only one that comes from the factory like this, so it is a bit concerning that these steps are not included in the manual.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 has several attributes that make it stand out over other entry-level 3D printers like the Ender 3 V2. These features have increased the cost of the new S1 series, but they also make it a more capable and user-friendly 3D printer.

A common trend in recent 3D printers is the inclusion of automatic bed leveling. This is a feature that used to be only found on more expensive printers, but the Ender 3 S1 now includes it as well.

CR-Touch and BLTouch sensors are popular Ender 3 V2 upgrades. Now that a CR-Touch is included with the Ender 3 S1, there is no need to spend your time and money on an aftermarket sensor. A welcome addition, in our opinion.

Another notable feature of the Ender 3 S1 is its direct-drive “Sprite” extruder. This is an upgrade from the Ender 3 V2, which uses a Bowden-style extruder.

With the Ender 3 V2, many users decide to upgrade to a Micro-Swiss direct extruder at some point. You can be sure that the Ender 3 S1 extruder is already capable of delivering great results out of the box.

If you want to print with a nozzle temperature of up to 300 °C, Creality does sell the Ender S1 Pro 3D printer. This version of the S1 comes with an all-metal hot end that can reach higher temperatures.

However, for most users, the regular Ender 3 S1 will suffice. It can still print with a wide range of filaments, including PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood filaments, and more.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a CR-FDM-v2.4.S1_v301 32-bit controller board with silent stepper drivers. This is an improvement over the loud V2.2.2 or V4.3.1 boards that the Ender 3 and 3 Pro used to be shipped with.

The ‘loudness’ of the mainboard is mainly defined by the stepper drivers. With four Trinamic TMC2209 drivers, the Ender 3 S1 is much quieter than older stock Ender 3-series printers.

A dual Z-axis setup is usually reserved for larger 3D printers. However, considering the extra weight of a direct extruder, it makes sense that Creality would include a second Z-motor on the S1.

For the belts, Creality has used Gates-branded ones. These are known for being high-quality and durable. This is an improvement over the no-name generic timing belts we often see on other 3D printers in this price class.

In practice, we found the dual Z-axis system to work well. The printer was able to produce consistent results, even at higher printing speeds. It is definitely an improvement over the single Z-axis system of the Ender 3 V2 and helps to justify the increased price of the S1.

As a print bed, the Creality Ender 3 S1 uses a PC coated magnetic spring steel sheet. This is a type of steel that is often used in 3D printer build plates.

The print surface of the Creality Ender 3 S1 has good temperature uniformity. There is a slight decrease in temperature at the four corners of the bed, but aside from that, the temperature is consistent across the entire print surface.

This evenness helps reduce warping and delamination problems on larger 3D prints, making the Ender 3 S1 an ideal choice for those who want to make full use of its build volume.

It is also exactly what you should be looking for if you want to 3D print larger objects in materials like ABS. For a 3D printer at this price point, these results are more than acceptable.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a filament runout sensor mounted at the top of the frame, near the spool holder. This is a useful addition that can save you a lot of time and hassle.

For example, on the rear of the 3D printer you can find an extra expansion interface port. This can be used to add a variety of to-be-released upgrades.

We think that it’s great that Creality has included the option for further upgrades. It shows that they are committed to making the Ender 3 S1 a 3D printer that can grow with your needs.

The build quality of a 3D printer is important for two reasons. Not only does it affect the precision and accuracy of the machine, but it also affects the long-term durability.

The frame of the Ender 3 S1 is made from aluminum extrusions. This helps to keep the printer stable and rigid, while also being light enough to move around when needed.

The use of aluminum extrusions is a common building method for 3D printers. It is a tried and true method that results in a rigid machine that gives more precise positioning of its moving parts.

One thing to note is that the S1 uses smooth extrusion for its frame. While this does give the 3D printer a nice look, it does make it more difficult to install some aftermarket upgrades. If you are planning on upgrading your machine, keep this in mind.

We were happy to find that all high-current wires on the Ender 3 S1 are properly crimped. This is important because it helps to prevent electrical issues down the road.

It is clear that Creality is not cutting corners when it comes to the wiring of the S1. One of the most important aspects of any 3D printer is its safety. You want to be sure that you are not going to end up with a fire hazard in your home.

Sound-wise there is nothing to complain about either. Other 3D printer power supplies can be loud under load, this one is relatively quiet. It is definitely still audible, but it is not obtrusive.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a parts drawer that is designed to make it easy to store and organize spare parts. You can fill it with various items, such as spare nozzles, screws, and tools, that you would otherwise have lying around on your 3D printer table.

This drawer is a great feature, and we wish more 3D printer manufacturers would include something similar. The drawer itself is well-made and fits snugly into the bottom of the printer.

The build volume of the Ender 3 S1 is 200x200x270 mm. This is a fairly standard print volume for cheaper machines. Despite the higher price, the S1 does not offer anything extra in this area.

Comparable 3D printers, like the Artillery Genius Pro and Creality Ender 3 V2, give you a 200x200x250 mm print volume. So the S1 only offers 20 mm more on the Z-axis.

In practice, this is a negligible difference. But if you are looking for a large 3D printer, the Ender 3 S1 should not be on your list of products to consider.

The Ender 3 S1 is a fairly quiet machine during 3D printing. Its power supply fan is less noticeable than the fans on other 3D printers, and the stepper motors make very little noise as well. As a result, there is little need for installing vibration dampeners on the steppers or replacing fans.

We did not measure the loudness of the 3D printer in decibels, as this number is notoriously inaccurate without calibrated equipment and a sound-proofed environment.

However, the sound level of the Ender 3 S1 is similar to that of background music. It’s there, but you will quickly tune it out and not notice it unless you are actively looking for it.

Just like the Ender 3 V2, the S1 comes with a 4.3″ LCD screen with a control knob. We’re not entirely sure why Creality did not go with a touch screen here. However, considering that the Ender 3 S1 Pro does come with a touch screen, it might have been to differentiate the S1 from the higher-end model.

Even though the non-touch LCD screen feels a bit old-fashioned, it is easy enough to use. It has a brand new UI interface, is responsive, bright, and the menus are logically laid out.

The user interface on the LCD uses a dark theme. Pleasant in the dark, but this can be a bit of eye-straining if you are using the printer in a well-lit room.

On the front of the S1 you will find a USB-C connector and full-size SD card slot. Both are improvements over the microSD card slots and USB-B connectors that can be found on older 3D printers.

The firmware of the Ender 3 S1 is something that Creality can improve upon. The firmware version shipped with our sample was V3.0.3, which has some shortcomings to it.

Fortunately, both of these issues can be fixed later by flashing a custom firmware to the 3D printer. However, we do think it is better to have these things configurable right out of the box.

On the plus side, the firmware does let you configure the maximum speed/acceleration/jerk settings through the LCD screen. This is a feature that we really appreciate, as it makes it very easy to fine-tune the performance of the machine.

The Ender 3 S1 is a fairly straightforward machine to maintain. All of the main components are easily accessible, and there are not a lot of delicate parts that can break easily.

For example, the electronics compartment can be easily accessed by removing the panel on the underside of the 3D printer. This gives you quick and easy access to the power supply and controller board.

It must be said that a direct extruder is more difficult to disassemble and work on than a Bowden extruder. Not only that, but the extruder on the Ender 3 S1 is also more challenging to work on than other direct extruders, like the one on the Anycubic Kobra.

As of writing this, the latest version of PrusaSlicer (2.4.2) comes with a profile for the Ender 3 S1. The latest version of Cura (4.13.1) does not, but it is easy to create one by copying the Ender 3 V2 profile and modifying it with a maximum print height of 270 mm.

The print quality of the Ender 3 S1 is very good, especially considering the price point. For our review, we printed a selection of test prints from Thingiverse and similar sites. All prints came out well, with no noticeable defects.

This river boat is a great print quality test. We are very happy with how the Ender 3 S1 did here. The overhangs and bridging on the boat are handled well by the S1. The same can be said for the retractions. We bumped the default retraction for PLA up from 0.8mm to 1.5mm to reduce stringing.

Only positives to say about this 3D print. The details came out very well and the quality is more than on par with what you would expect from a $400 3D printer.

To print this birdhouse we swapped the stock Ender 3 S1 0.4mm nozzle out with a 0.6mm E3D V6 nozzle. Both nozzles have identical M6 thread and are compatible with each other. The V6 nozzle is shorter than the MK8 V6 nozzle, but there is still enough clearance for the S1’s print cooling fan to not hit the model during printing.

As siblings in the same series, the Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro have a large number of similarities. Both 3D printers have the same build volume, construction, mainboard, double Z-axis, and more. In fact, it would be easier to just list the differences.

The main difference between the S1 and S1 Pro is the extruder. The Ender 3 S1 uses the “Sprite” extruder with a maximum nozzle temperature of 260 °C. The S1 Pro uses the superior “Sprite Pro” extruder with a max nozzle temp of 300 °C.

Another difference between the extruders is that the “Sprite” is PTFE-lined, and the “Sprite Pro” is all-metal. The all-metal design is superior for reliability and filament compatibility. If you want to 3D print with Nylon or higher-temperature ABS filaments, the S1 Pro is the printer to go for.

The S1 Pro also comes with an improved interface. While both the LCD screen with knob and touch screen are responsive, the touch screenlooks sleeker and is easy to use. Also included on the pro is an LED light strip to light up your work area.

The last difference is the price. The Ender 3 S1 is $80 cheaper than the Ender 3 S1 Pro. This is to be expected, as the Pro version is the newer and more feature-rich 3D printer.

Either version of the Ender 3 S1 is a great machine, but if you plan to work with high-temperature filaments, we recommend going for the Pro. The extra temperature range and quality of life features are worth the price hike in our opinion.

There is no debate that the Ender 3 S1 is a better 3D printer than the Ender 3 V2. The only reason you would choose the older V2 over the S1 is the price.

The 3D printer market is very competitive, and companies are constantly releasing new models that offer more features for the same price. The Ender 3 V2 was a great machine a couple of years ago, but it has been eclipsed by the S1.

The Ender 3 S1’s direct-drive extruderis a big step up from the Bowden setup on the V2. The direct drive allows for better performance with flexible filaments and offers better print quality in general. Reliability is also increased with the direct extruder.

The S1 also uses a newer 32-bit mainboard with TMC2209 drivers. The new mainboard and drivers offer better performance, silent printing, and more features than the V2.

Assembly is improved as well. Because the S1 is pre-assembled, it is easier to get up and running than the V2. The main thing you need to do is install the Z-axis gantry, which takes a couple of minutes. The Ender V2, on the other hand, requires a more involved assembly process that takes hours.

The only area where the V2 still has an advantage is price. The Ender 3 V2 can be found for $259, whereas the S1 sets you back $399. That is a $140 difference that is significant for a lot of people.

At the end of the day, the Ender 3 S1 is a better 3D printer than the V2 and is worth the extra money in our opinion. If it fits in your budget, we recommend going for the S1.

Anycubic and Creality are two of the most popular 3D printer brands on the market, and their printers are often compared to each other. Both the Creality Ender 3 S1 and the Anycubic Kobra are recently released, budget-friendly 3D printers that offer great value for the money. So, how do they compare?

Bed leveling is where these two 3D printers are similar too. Both have a probe-assisted leveling system that makes it easy for the 3D printers to adjust for unevenness in the print bed. The S1 uses a CR Touch and the Kobra an inductive probe, but the results are the same.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a dual Z-axis arrangement. This gives the S1 greater stability, which leads to better print quality. The Kobra only has a single Z-axis, which can lead to vibration and wobble at a higher printing speed.

On the other hand, the Kobra has a touch screenand support for sensorless homing. Both are small quality of life features that make 3D printing easier, but in practice, they only make a small difference.

The Anycubic Kobra is a great 3D printer, but in our opinion, the Creality Ender 3 S1 is a slightly better machine. It’s pretty close, however, and ultimately it is the price difference that is the most significant factor. The S1 costs $399 and the Kobra only $299, so it really depends on your budget as to which 3D printer is the better option.

The Ender 3 S1 is a great 3D printer for anyone looking for the latest budget machine from Creality. It’s a significant upgrade over the V2 and is packed with features that weren’t available before in 3D printers at this price point. If you can afford the $399 asking price, we think the S1 is a great option.

Its lack of touch screen and overly sticky print surface are relatively minor complaints in the grand scheme of things. The overall package is very impressive, and we think the Ender 3 S1 is arguably the best 3D printer under $500 on the market right now.

If you want more headroom for high-temperature filaments, the Ender 3 S1 Pro is the better option. It comes with an all-metal hotend that can heat up to 300 °C, which is ideal for filaments like ABS and Nylon.

At the end of the day, all of these 3D printers offer great value for the money. It really comes down to your specific needs as to which one is the best option for you.