monoprice lcd touch screen monitor driver free sample

Monitor came with the stand mounted upside down. The "IIIP" logo should be on the bottom of the monitor. It was very easy to unscrew the stand with a generic Philips screwdriver and flop it around. Build quality is solid.

The monitor has a ?tooth? laminate to replicate the feel of paper on the screen. There was some air bubbles around the edge of the monitor where the monitor glass meets the plastic surround, which were aesthetically disappointing but did not affect the drawing surface. The tooth laminate is very comfortable to drawn on.

Install was easy although Windows 10 cried about the drivers harming my rig. Windows 10 cries about everything. The included HDMI cable is very cheap and I used one of my own 10ft nicer ones. The USB cable was acceptable.

The new software/drivers (MP monitor is a rebranded Bosto) are only available on Monoprice. BE SURE to save drivers on a flash drive, CD or somewhere else than depending on MP to keep driver available forever when you need a new install. The Bosto website does have newer drivers for their newer monitors. I tried them and they worked (but didn?t solve any setup problems I was having).

The Creator22 drivers do not have the settings to be able to adjust tablet area mapping and it causes a problem with multiple monitors **See setup notes** Sensitivity levels and hotkey mapping work well. The drivers also added the Creator22 as an audio device called ?Bosto? and Windows defaulted to the Bosto in my sound settings. I had to go into sound settings and disable it to get my normal speakers back.

I have some high-end regular monitors and I cannot get the MPCreator22 to match. The blacks just aren"t black enough nor the colors as rich. You can tweak the GPM with your graphics card a little more but it?s not going to get there. However if you don?t do a lot of subtle color work it?s fine. Or, use the ?duplicate display? in Windows to have a reference monitor with good color to look at and check your work.

Overall: for a dirt-cheap graphic pen display I am very happy. I was going to shell out $800 for a Huion but cheapness got the better of me and after a lot of cussing with settings and programs it works great. Please be aware that I am not a technical person. I still thought Photoshop6 (PS6) was a new program (ha, 2012). I am not ?with it? and if I just wasn?t BONE HEADED STUBBORN about having multiple monitors to use with the Creator22 (1 reference monitor, 1 watch tv monitor and the Creator22 to draw on) it would have worked just dandy out of the box with ONE monitor and ?duplicate displays?.

*Notes about monitor settings/setup: I have two monitors plus this graphic display. To get it to work on Windows with multiple monitors I had to set the Creator 22 as the "Main" display in the Windows 10 "Display Settings" in addition to having the Graphic Pen Monitor selected correctly in the unit"s software otherwise the pen would keep trying to draw on the main monitor instead of the Graphic Pen Monitor. I also had to have ?Windows Ink? enabled on the driver software.

Getting it to work with your drawing software with multiple monitors is also another issue. I initially tried to get the Creator22 to work with PS6. It will work with PS6 but ONLY if you have the Creator22 set as the main display and it is the sole monitor or your second monitor is set to ?duplicate display? in Windows. PS6 has an offset issue with the pen and the PS6 software doesn?t have updates/drivers/options to correct the issue.

**The Creator22 drivers do not have the settings to be able to adjust tablet area mapping it has to be done in whatever drawing program you?re using**

The Creator22 works perfectly with Krita 5.0.2 and multiple monitors AFTER settings adjustment. In Krita, goto ?Configure Krita>Advanced Tablet Setting, click to ?map custom area? and set to width: 1920 height: 1080 x offset: 0, Y offset: 0

I recently purchased the FlashForge Creator 3 (which does have dual independent extruders) at a cost of $3250. The Voxel is actually manufactured by FlashForge for Monoprice and the quality of both the Voxel and Creator 3 are comparable.

It’s been almost two months since I first received my 19-inch Monoprice Interactive Pen Display and reported how very disappointed I was in the $389 tablet monitor.

I’ve been meaning to post this follow up review ever since, but I’ve kept checking the Monoprice and Huion sites weekly hoping for signs of a new set of Windows drivers that could vastly improve this device. Unfortunately, the only driver download available from Monoprice dates back to October and the product manager with whom I’ve corresponded hasn’t been able to confirm whether any updates are even in the pipeline.

The Monoprice’s drivers appear to be rebadged Huion drivers for its GT-190 tablet display. I am not 100% certain that the drivers are identical, but except for logos, the drivers’ control panels are exactly the same. The Huion archive was updated in December, so I am currently running that driver version. However, except for the English language product manual, the other files in the .zip are dated 2012 and earlier.

Neither the Monoprice nor Huion archives contain Windows 8.x-specific drivers, so it doesn’t appear that any software development is occurring on the Windows side. And boy, does the Monoprice Interactive Pen Display need it!

As I wrote in my unboxing, this tablet monitor makes a very good first impression given its low price. Packaging is professional, industrial design is very nice, build quality is excellent and the rubberized stylus has a nice size and feel.

Cable connections are in the lower back of the monitor and face downward. You’ll have to hold the display upside down to attach either the included VGA or optional DVI cable as well as the USB cable for pen input. You’ll also need to be careful about how the cables are threaded out of the back as they tend to interfere with the monitor’s stand.

Monoprice could save Windows users hours of frustration by publishing a bright red warning label with the following instructions contained on page 4 of the manual: “Important! Do not plug the monitor into your PC until after you have installed the driver software.”

They should also highlight this critical bit of information from page 6: (Following driver installation) “Unplug all other monitor connections from your PC.”

And last, but not least, from page 8: (After setting the display resolution), plug in the included USB cable. “Windows will then finalize the installation of the monitor and its driver.”

So to summarize: the pen display won’t work in multi-monitor mode in Windows. Install the drivers first. Unplug your current monitor and plug in the Monoprice. Start up your system and set the resolution. 1440 x 900 is maximum, but don’t be surprised if your video card doesn’t support those dimensions (a couple of the machines I tested didn’t but the display worked ok in a lower res). Lastly, connect the USB cable from the display to your pc. The pen drivers should install automatically. I don’t recall if it’s required, but to be safe you’ll want to reboot your pc after the pen driver installation.

By default, the pen drivers will display an icon in your system tray. Left clicking on the icon will load up the control panel. You can also access the control panel directly under Control Panel\Tablet Setting.

Don’t be surprised if your system doesn’t seem to respond to your pen’s taps. Using the Monoprice drivers, default clicking sensitivity was set too low. No matter how hard I pounded with the pen, I couldn’t get clicks to register. (You’ll want to keep a mouse handy in case this happens to you). Changing the click pressure setting in the control panel corrected this issue. With the Huion driver I’m currently using I didn’t experience the problem, though I still had to set click sensitivity all the way to Heavy in order to get maximum range of pressure.

I have contacted Monoprice to see if they will honor the 1 year warranty. If you get this printer the first thing you should do is manually set the hot end and printer bed up to the max settings to verify you do not have a faulty power supply. I wish I would have done this because you can send back the printer to Amazon if the power supply or any other part is faulty as long as you are in the 30 day window, but after that you will need to working with Monoprice directly.

Nov 1, 2016 Update: Monoprice sent me an email regarding the issue and asked me for the Amazon invoice so I am hoping they can resolve the issue. Nov 4th: Monoprice issued a RMA number so that I can return my unit. Nov 7th: Printer is on the way back to Monoprice. Nov 14th: Printer delivered to Monoprice. Nov 16th:Replacement printer has been shipped, things are proceeding well. Nov 20th: Got new replacement printer and it is working great. Once I run this printer some more I will probably give it another star.

Placing everything under the large tupperware container has made a huge difference on not having to have the bed leveled to a high degree because the filament (I use Hatchbox PLA) sticks super well. In fact it sticks so well that I use blue tape to make getting the print of the bed. I have the control unit placed outside of the tupperware so it does not overheat. Some say that the Maker select Plus is nicer because the controller and power supply is mounted on the frame, but if you want to use a heated chamber this is a disadvantage because the controller board and power supply will over heat-- so get this model. The Maker Select Plus does not use the standard Melzi board most likely due to the touch screen code. That means the code has not had as much testing coverage vs. using the stock open source code. My coworker got the maker select mini which uses a modified code base running on a different chip architecture and when trying to print a more complex 3D model the print stopped at 80% mark when printing from the SD card, but he was able to make the print work when printing from the USB cable. We think that this is related to the controller board not using stock open source firmware. We investigated if we could update the firmware but could not find adequate documentation to proceed.

You can also print a base frame so you can carry the controller and x-y-z frame as one piece. My unit has adjustable the Z endstop which you need if you decide to print on glass. I control this printer with OctoPrint (OctoPI) and AstroPrint. OctoPI lets me see the gcode that is get executed on the printer. If need to monitor the print while away from home, I run AstroPrint because I don"t have to open up any firewalls. OctoPrint and AstroPrint are free and work well with this printer.

Restart the computer. This is a classic troubleshooting step because it often works. It closes other processes that might be interfering with your monitor"s performance and gives you a clean slate from which to proceed.

Change the screen resolution. If the second monitor"s display is blurry, pixelated, distorted, or discolored—or if it"s duplicating the primary display—check the computer"s display settings. If the frame rate or resolution is incorrect, adjust it there.

Adjust the scaling settings. If the windows display in different sizes on different monitors in Windows 10, adjust the scaling settings. The recommended setting will match the apparent window size across monitors as closely as possible.

Fix discoloration and color accuracy. (On macOS, use display calibration.) If the computer"s settings don"t fix the problem, use a hardware calibration device, or adjust the monitor"s color settings, gamma, and brightness settings in the monitor"s on-screen menu. Every monitor is different, but Coloror Display Depth are the typical terms.

Other causes of color issues include different display panels, backlights, technologies, and age. If you need an exact match, consider professional-grade photo-editing monitors.

Adjust the monitor"s refresh rate. Monitors are built to work at particular refresh rates. If your computer doesn"t send a signal at one of those supported rates, there"s a chance the monitor won"t display the signal.

Swap out the current cable. A bad cable is the most common culprit when the monitor shows artifacts or no picture at all. Very long and poorly shielded cables are especially prone to interference.

Good cables don"t need to cost a fortune. Gold-plated connectors and oxygen-free copper don"t provide any noticeable differences in image quality. However, poorly constructed cables can lead to issues. Purchase a cable from a trusted manufacturer. Monoprice offers an excellent combination of affordability and reliable quality.

Try the cable in alternate ports on the PC, the display, or both. Change only one at a time, so you can pinpoint which ports caused the problem. If your PC doesn"t have a second compatible port, connect the monitor to a different computer to see if it works and to help pinpoint the problem.

USB-C and Thunderbolt monitors are even more confusing because the cables are physically interchangeable but not cross-compatible. DVI, meanwhile, has multiple versions, and it"s possible to plug an incompatible DVI cable into a computer or monitor.

Check the cable"s documentation on the manufacturer"s website to find the latest display connection version supported by the cable. If the cable doesn"t support your display, replace it with a cable that does. Additionally, check the appearance of the connectors on the cable, computer, and monitors to ensure they"re compatible.

Try a different display interface. For example, if the second monitor is currently connected over HDMI, use Display Port instead. This can accomplish a few things. If the current interface can"t drive all the pixels in the second monitor, switching to a different interface can fix that problem.

Update the computer"s display drivers. If you have a third-party discrete graphics card, update the drivers from the manufacturer. If you plug the monitor into the motherboard"s display connectors, visit the motherboard or computer manufacturer"s website to check for updated drivers for those features.

Lower the image quality. If the monitor suffers from a poor frame rate, choppiness, or corrupted video or game content, reducing the signal"s complexity can help. For games, try the lowest-quality settings first, then gradually improve the quality until the issue reappears. For video content, try a lower resolution or a less demanding frame rate.

Check the power connections. If the monitor doesn"t turn on, try different power connectors or wall outlets. Test wall outlets with other devices before plugging in the monitor to ensure those devices work properly.

Check the monitor"s input settings. If the monitor has multiple input interfaces, make sure you have the correct one selected in the monitor"s on-screen menu. Most monitors have an auto-detect feature that automatically switches to the connector receiving the signal. When that doesn"t work, set the display connector manually.

Make sure the monitor can display the content sent to it. Does the monitor have sufficient color gamut, resolution, or bit depth to display the content properly? Consult the monitor"s documentation or the monitor manufacturer"s website.

If none of these steps fix the problem, you might need to replace the monitor. If you see colored lines, black or colored points, or cracks in the image, the monitor"s panel might be damaged and require replacement. These display issues can be fixed similarly on macOS.

Recently I bought a Monoprice Voxel (a rebranded FlashForge Adventurer 3) 3D printer, and I’ve spent the last couple of weeks getting to grips with it. I’m very impressed – it works well and I’ve had a lot of fun building parts of my projects.

The printer is perfectly happy to print .gcode files, provided the file extension is changed to .g first. While printing a .g file the time estimation on the printer screen does not count down the remaining time, it counts up the elapsed time. Also instead of a small image of the model being shown, a generic icon is displayed.

I’ve tested all of the above with the Monoprice Voxel, which should be the same as a FlashForge Adventurer 3, and possibly other FlashForge products, but as I do not have access to them right now, I’m not able to say with certainly.