diy lcd panel controller made in china

This is a great set of easy-reassembling LCD controller kit which is used to turn a bare laptop LCD panel into a desktop/PC monitor. It will be a surprise that your bare LCD will be of good use, and no longer be a waste. It supports most of the LCD panel from 12.1" to 19" with a LVDS interface and a resolution lower than 1440*900, plug&play kit, no need soldering.

Necessary Accessories for turning a LCD to desktop monitor: LCD Controller board, Inverter, LVDS cable, Keypad, VGA cable, Power Adapter. If you have already had a VGA cable and a power adapter (12V,4A), this kit is a great choice for you, else there are some other kind of kits for options in our store, click here.

Step 1: Please provide your LCD panel model no. by sending us the ebay message before bidding this item, so that we can advise a right kit for your LCD. (Usually, the model no. can be found on a sticker on the back of the LCD panel. If needed, disassemble the plastic shell and you will find the sticker）. If possible, please give us as more specification of your LCD as you can. Then wait for our reply.

We will write corresponding program into the lcd controller board to match your LCD, so this kit will match against one very specific LCD Panel or others that have exactly the same specification. However, a programmer could help on different LCDs, that is, change the firmware of the LCD controller board by yourself. Be aware that different LVDS cables and Inverters will be needed to match different LCDs.

3. We will try our best to prepare the right kit for you, such as writing the corresponding program into the controller board, selecting the suitable LVDS cable and the suitable inverter. But as we don"t have an LCDexactly as yours at hand, we can just test the controller with our own LCD. For yours, you need to test it yourself to check if it works well or not. As you know, there are so many LCDs with many varieties in the market, sometimes we can"t promise the exact compatibility. Please consider it before bidding! However, we have gained many success in preparing the kit for our customers in real store. So why not have a try to get surprise!

5. After finishing the connecting, please don"t rush to power on! First, use multi-meter to test whether the GND of the LCD is connected with the GND of the controller board. If not, please check the connection again. If yes, please test whether there is a short circuit between the red wires and black wires of the LVDS cable. If there is a short circuit, it means opposite connection or other errors. Any problem, please feel free to contact us. DIY needs a certain professional knowledge, please kindly take the responsibility of the risk. No metal contact is allowed when powering on the controller board, otherwise short circuit may occur, which may cause unavailability of the controller board.

As we need to select the right inverter and lvds cable to match your lcd for you, so they may be not the same as that shown in the picture. Hope for your understanding.

A while back I was sitting around and wondering what to do with my dead laptop. I knew the mother board was fried but everything else was still in working condition. As a result, I decided to make an external monitor from my dead laptop and proceeded to do the research to find out if this was possible. Below is what I discovered. Unfortunately, there was no way to use the motherboard"s VGA connector. The VGA connector on a laptop is used to connect to an external monitor. In any case the VGA connector is output only and wouldn"t work for an external screen. As a result, I found that I needed to buy a controller board for the LCD screen, to make it work as an external monitor. This was the main cost but was still less than half the cost of buying an external monitor.

Step Two. To Remove the LCD screen from the laptop, you will need to remove the screws. There are rubber pads on the front of the LCD screen to protect it when the laptop lid is closed. Behind the rubber pads are the screws. Find and remove all the screws holding the front plastic frame on the laptop lid. Keep track of the pads and screws as you will need them to reassemble everything.

Step Three. Remove the plastic frame from the LCD screen. Here is where you need to be careful. The screws are not the only thing holding the plastic frame on the LCD screen! The plastic frame is snapped into place. Carefully pry loose the frame from the LCD screen. Pry it loose gently. Try to keep it as close as possible to the LCD panel while you are prying it loose because you may also find that you need to slide it to the left or right to completely remove it from the laptop. There is a small protrusion of the plastic frame where the hinge is. Because of this protrusion you need to slide the frame, in this case, to the right, to detach it from the laptop.

Step Four. Locate and remove the screws holding the LCD panel to the laptop. These are located on the bottom. The screws are attached to a small metal hinge. this is the component that is attached to the keyboard frame.

Next you will need to remove the LCD screen. Note that there is a cable attached. This is the LVDS cable. It is best to take apart the rest of the laptop and unplug it from the keyboard. However, the cable can be cut at the bottom. Take care not to cut the two wires going into the inverter (that"s the slim circuit board at the bottom.

Once the LCD panel is removed, you can remove the LVDS cable and unplug the inverter at the bottom. Unplug the inverter from both ends. Do not cut it. The LVDS cable is taped to the back of the LCD screen at the top. It is the flat cable running up the back. Remove the tape and slid the cable down. Since you need to buy an LCD controller board, you will no longer need the LVDS cable the laptop came with or the inverter. At this point you should just have an LCD screen with a pair of wires coming out of it.

Keep track of the plastic front frame and the plastic backing. You will need them to resemble the LCD screen. On the other hand, you have different fingers, just kidding. On the other hand, you can buy a picture frame and put the LCD screen in the picture frame.

Here is a picture of the LVDS cable and the inverter detached from the LCD screen. Since we will be buying an LCD control board these cables will not be needed again.

Next, once you have removed the LCD panel. Flip it over and look for a model number on the back. You will need this model number to order the correct LCD controller board. I went to E-Bay and found one for $42.00. I bought the LCD controller board and then received an email from the seller requesting the model number of the LCD screen and manufacturer. This is because each controller board is flashed, (programed to run a specific LCD) I gave him my model number, LP171WX2 A4K1 and told him it was made by LG Phillips. Since the board was coming from China, I received my order about 2 weeks later. Due note to buy one with a power cord! The LCD controller board has the VGA input connection which allows you to connect it to another computer and use it as a second monitor or as a back up in the event the one on your working computer goes out.

The LCD controller board is real easy to connect. It comes with all the required cables, except a VGA cable which you will need, in order to connect your LCD to another computer. You can buy a VGA cable from Best Buy or a computer parts store.

The LCD control Bard comes with all the cables except the VGA cable which you will have to buy. Once you have received your kit, proceed to connect it to the LCD screen. Plug the LVDS cable into the LCD panel where you removed the original from. The two wires at the bottom of the LCD screen that were connected to the inverter need to be unplugged from the old inverter and plugged into the new inverter below. Then, plug the power in. Make sure that the LCD control board is not sitting on anything conductive, like metal or it will short and fry. Next connect the VGA cable to the LCD control board and plug the other end of the VGA cable to another computer. Make sure the computer is on before you plug in the VGA cable. At this point you should have the same image that is on the computer you plugged the VGA cable into, on the LCD panel.

Next, I attached a 4 inch section of two by four on the outside back of the laptop lid. I needed this in order to attach my stand to the LCD screen. I used 5 screws and screwed them in place from the inside. I did splice and extend the cables going from the LCD controller to the inverter it came with just to have a little more room.

Originally, I built a nice wooden stand for my LCD panel but was not satisfied with it. So, I took a broken florescent desk lamp and dremeled off the section holding the florescent tubes, leaving enough metal to screw on to the two by four on the laptop lid. Before attaching the stand, I drilled four holes in the metal to make it easier to screw it on the two by four.

Next you will need to attach the LCD controller to the laptop lid. To do this, screw in a few sections of wood from the inside of the lid. Then on the outside of the lid attach the LCD control board. Place the wood in an area where the control board can reach.

Next you will need to find all those screws you have been saving and reassemble the LCD screen. I also added some surgical tubing to the top springs for added strength.

By the way a store bought swing arm half the size of this one, I found, cost around $400.00. If you choose to use a swing arm like this one, go with the one that has a magnifier on it and dremel off the magnifier leaving enough metal to attach to your LCD lid. You need one of this caliber to hold the LCD screen. Swing arms with the light attached are not strong enough.

Since I was asked about the web cam, I though Should add it to the instructable. There is a nice instructable here at this site showing how to convert a web cam from an LCD screen: http://rntmns.com/2011/02/rebirth-of-a-webcam/

Actually, you can do One better. You can salvage the RAM, the Wireless card, the Batteries, the charger, the hard drive, the DVD disk player and sell them to people that need them on E-bay and Still keep the LCD screen for yourself.

The LVDS cable of the controller board is too short for the way I need it to be, does anyone know if there is an easy or inexpensive way to extend its lenght? (with LVDS cable I mean the 20/30 pin cable that is the main data cable for the display and goes to [in my case] 20 pin on the big board of the controller board)

I checked ebay for the LCD control Board and all I did was punch in " LCD control Board for a LP154W01(A3)" , That"s my model number. You, of course, use your"s. ebay came up with the correct one for $25.00 and it has all the imputs you could want. This is good today, 2/11/19. Have fun folks!

i have a similar lcd panel to yours. infact 3 of them! they"re so easy to work with and doesn"t need a backlight controller LP154WH4 TLA1 except the lvds cable sold separately. I"ve build one and runs on

This would be great for the Flight Sim I am building, Problem is e-qstore can"t speak English. I bought 2 18.4 monitors after I ordered the controller, then they email me 2 days laster telling me they can"t make this control board. Been trying to find another board that will work with another monitor only to get "Sorry Sorry" and other things I can"t even make sense of.

Nicely done and very informative!! However unfortunately, by the time you add the cost of the LCD Controller card, various parts and time you could have bought a new inexpensive monitor.

it really depends on what kind of display your laptop came with. I recently had a laptop that featured a 4k OLED screen and If I add the price up of the controller kit and materials (depending how you are going to make the stand) it would actually in my case be cheaper to make that an external monitor because, quite frankly 4k is pretty expensive and I don"t want to degrade to a lower resolution. in said laptop the motherboard died so I just scavenged everything including the LCD which I have just lying on my desk. so I might even consider trying this.0

This is a question we hear a lot: “I have a spare LCD panel; what else do I need to make a monitor?” This Chinese eBay seller has the cheapest out-of-the-box solution I’ve seen...

Solar charge controllers are a critical component in every solar installation. They protect your battery storage components, and they ensure everything runs efficiently and safely throughout the lifespan of your system.

The charge controller in your solar installation sits between the energy source (solar panels) and storage (batteries). Charge controllers prevent your batteries from being overcharged by limiting the amount and rate of charge to your batteries. They also prevent battery drainage by shutting down the system if stored power falls below 50 percent capacity and charge the batteries at the correct voltage level. This helps preserve the life and health of the batteries.

Regarding “what does a solar charge controller do”, most charge controllers has a charge current passing through a semiconductor which acts like a valve a to control the current. Charge controllers also prevent your batteries from being overcharged by reducing the flow of energy to the battery once it reaches a specific voltage. Overcharging batteries can be particularly damaging to the battery itself so charge controllers are especially crucial.

Charge controllers also offer some other important functions, including overload protection, low voltage disconnects, and blockage of reverse currents.

Overload protection: Charge controllers provide the important function of overload protection. If the current flowing into your batteries is much higher than what the circuit can deal with, your system may overload. This can lead to overheating or even fires. Charge controllers prevent these overloads from occurring. In larger systems, we also recommend a double safety protection with circuit breakers or fuses.

Block Reverse Currents: Solar panels pump current through your battery in one direction. At night, panels may naturally pass some of that current in the reverse direction. This can cause a slight discharge from the battery. Charge controllers prevent this from happening by acting as a valve.

Typically, yes. You don’t need a charge controller with small 1 to 5 watt panels that you might use to charge a mobile device or to power a single light. If a panel puts out 2 watts or less for each 50 battery amp-hours, you probably don’t need a charge controller. Anything beyond that, and you do.

Solar charge controllers play an integral role in solar power systems, making them safe and effective. You can’t simply connect your solar panels to a battery directly and expect it to work. Solar panels output more than their nominal voltage. For example, a 12v solar panel might put out up to 19 volts.

While a 12v battery can take up to 14 or 15 volts when charging, 19 volts is simply too much and could lead to damage from overcharging. Solar charge controllers aren’t an optional component that delivers increased efficiency. They’re an absolute necessity that makes solar power battery charging possible.

These factors all interact in complex ways that can be challenging to implement effectively. However, there is a clear process for determining which charge controller is right for your application.

There are two main types of charge controllers to consider: the cheaper, but less efficient Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) charge controllers and the highly efficient Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) charge controllers. Both technologies are used widely, protect the battery, and typically have a lifespan of around 15 years, although that may vary from product to product.

Each of the two main types has certain cases where they are the clear choice. However, there’s more to choosing a charge controller than simply choosing the right type — in addition to this, you must consider additional features in terms of both safety and convenience.

Pulse Width Modulation charge controllers have been around longer and are simpler and less expensive than MPPT controllers. PWM controllers regulate the flow of energy to the battery by reducing the current gradually, called "pulse width modulation.” In contrast to providing a steady output, pulse width modulation charge controllers provide a series of short charging pulses to the battery.

While effective, this pulse width modulation results in a loss of power between your solar panels and your batteries. This type of charge controller can’t adjust voltages, only switch off intermittently to prevent excessive voltage to the batteries.

The voltage and current put out by your solar panels are always shifting, so this inevitably leads to some waste when using a PWM solar charge controller.

PWM charge controllers keep supplying a tiny amount of power to keep your batteries full. This two-stage regulation is the perfect fit for a system that may experience little energy use. PWM controllers are best for small scale applications because the solar panel system and batteries must have matching voltages. The current is drawn out of the panel at just above the battery voltage.

Many PWM charge controllers come with a diverse set of extra features. Renogy’s Wanderer 10A PWM charge controller can be used with a 12V or 24V battery or battery bank and comes equipped with self-diagnostics and electronic protection functions to prevent damage from installation mistakes or system faults.

As the power output of your solar panels varies with changing conditions, there will always be a particular voltage that will provide the most optimal results.

This voltage is the maximum power point that your MPPT charge controller follows. In doing so, it ensures that you maintain optimal power output every moment that your solar panel is in operation.

For example, if it becomes cloudy, your MPPT charge controller will decrease the amount of current drawn in order to maintain a desirable voltage at the output of the panel. When it becomes sunny again, the MPPT controller will allow more current from the solar panel once again.

MPPT charge controllers are highly recommended for most large solar power systems. PWM charge controllers are typically only a viable option for portable applications such as for RV trips or possibly for a small off-grid cottage.

When it comes to charge controller sizing, you have to take into consideration whether you’re using a PWM or MPPT controller. An improperly selected charge controller may result in up to a 50% loss of the solar generated power.

Charge controllers are sized depending on your solar array"s current and the solar system’s voltage. You typically want to make sure you have a charge controller that is large enough to handle the amount of power and current produced by your panels. Typically, charge controllers come in 12, 24 and 48 volts. Amperage ratings can be between one and 60 amps and voltage ratings from six to 60 volts. If you haven’t sized your system yet or calculated your energy needs, we recommend using the

When it comes to sizing your system properly, the amps are the value you’ll have to pay the most attention to for your charge controller. You need the right voltage as well, but that’s as simple as matching the system and charge controller nominal voltages.

If your solar system"s volts were 12 and your amps were 14, you would need a solar charge controller that had at least 14 amps. However due to environmental factors, you need to factor in an additional 25% bringing the minimum amps that this charger controller must have to 17.5 amps. So in this case, you would need a 12 volt, 20 amp charge controller. Here’s some more specifics based on the type of charge controller you have installed in your system.

PWM Charge Controller Sizing: PWM controllers are unable to limit their current output. They simply use the array current. Therefore, if the solar array can produce 40 amps of current and the charge controller you’re using is only rated to 30 amps, then the controller could be damaged. It’s crucial to ensure your charge controller is matched, compatible with, and properly sized for your panels.

When looking at a charge controller, there are a range of things to examine on its list of specifications or label. A PWM controller will have an amp reading for it, for example 30 amp PWM controller. This represents how many amps the controller can handle, in the case above, 30 amps. Generally the two things you want to look at in a PWM controller is the amperage and voltage rating.

Firstly, we want to look at the nominal system voltage. This will tell us what voltage battery banks the controller is compatible with. In this case, you can use 12V or 24V battery banks. Anything higher, such as a 48V battery bank, the controller will not be able to work on.

Secondly, we look at the rated battery current. Let’s say in this example you have a 30 amp rating charge controller. We recommended a factor of safety of at least 1.25, meaning you would multiply the current from your panels by 1.25 and then compare that to the 30 amps. For example, five 100 watt panels in parallel would be 5.29 x 5 = 26.45 Amps. 26.45 Amps x 1.25 = 33 amps and would be too much for the controller. This is because the panel can experience more current than what it is rated for when exposure to sun rays is above 1000 Watts/m^2 or tilted.

Thirdly, we can look at the maximum solar input. This tells you how many volts you can have going into the controller. This controller cannot accept more than 50 volts in. Let’s look at having 2 x 100 Watt panels in series for a total of 22.5V (open-circuit voltage) x 2 = 45 volts. In this case, it will be ok to wire these two panels in series.

Fourthly, we can look at the terminals. Each controller will usually have a maximum gauge size for the terminal. This is important when purchasing wiring for your system.

Finally, look at battery type. This tells us what batteries are compatible with the charge controller. This is important to check as you don’t want to have batteries that cannot be charged by the controller unit.

MPPT Charge Controller Sizing: Because MPPT controllers limit their output, you can make an array as large as you want and a controller will limit that output. However, this means your system isn’t as efficient as it could be since you have panels that aren’t being properly utilized. MPPT controllers will have an amp reading for it, for example a 40 amp MPPT controller. Even if your panels have the potential to produce 80A of current, an MPPT charge controller will only produce 40A of current, no matter what.

MPPT controllers will have an amp reading for it, for example a 40 amp MPPT controller. They will also have a voltage rating, but unlike PWM, the input voltage rating is much higher than the battery banks it will charge. This is due to the special ability of the MPPT controller to lower the voltage to the battery bank voltage and then increase the current to make up for lost power. You do not have to utilize the high input voltage if you want to avoid series connections in small systems, but it is very beneficial in larger systems.

Let’s say a controller’s label shows that it can handle 12V or 24V battery banks. Look for the Rov value. For example, if it is Rov-40, this means it is rated for 40 amps of current.

Thirdly, we can look at the maximum solar input voltage. For example, if an MPPT Controller can accept 100 volts of input, it will then take this (up to) 100 volts and step it down to your 12V or 24V battery. Let’s say you have 4 x 100 Watt panels in series, each with an open-circuit voltage of 22.5V. Those 4 in series will be 4 x 22.5 V = 90 Volts, which the controller can accept.

Being able to accept higher voltages makes MPPT controllers particularly suited to some specific applications. Higher voltages lead to less power loss across a length of wire, which is why long-distance transmission lines have such high voltages.

If your battery banks are some distance from your panels, running the system at higher voltage and relying on MPPT solar charge controllers is the best way to cut down transmission loss.

You can use multiple charge controllers with one battery bank in situations where a single charge controller is not large enough to handle the output of your solar panel array. In fact, for MPPT charge controllers, this can be the best way to connect your system as arrays have different maximum power points. Having two controllers can optimize the total power output.

In many cases, individuals who install solar power systems will later go on to expand these systems. It isn’t uncommon for the capacity of the expansion to go well over what the existing charge controller can handle.

However, we do recommend using the same type of charge controllers if you are using more than one. So if you have one MPPT charge controller, all of your charge controllers should be MPPT. Additionally, you’ll want to make sure all your controllers have the same battery setting input.

All charge controllers have an upper voltage limit. This refers to the maximum amount of voltage the controllers can safely handle. Make sure you know what the upper voltage limit of your controllers is. Otherwise you may end up burning out your solar charge controller or creating other safety risks.

While there are many other factors at play to determine whether you’re choosing the right size charge controller, there is very little wiggle room when it comes to the upper voltage limit.

Choosing the wrong size in terms of amperage can leave you without the capacity you need from your charge controller, but an insufficient upper voltage limit will lead to your system not functioning at all.

You need to make sure that your charge controller is able to handle the maximum voltage that’s put out by your solar power system. In general, this is a serious concern if you’re running solar panels in series.

When connected in series, the voltage adds up with each panel. So your two 12v panels are now putting out 24v, which will surely fry your 12v charge controller.

Because of all the different components of a solar installation, it can be easy to make a misstep in the installation process. Here are a few commonly made mistakes when it comes to solar charge controllers.

• The charge controller should always be mounted close to the battery since precise measurement of the battery voltage is an important part of the functions of a solar charge controller.

During operation, there are a few potential issues that can arise with your charge controller. You could find yourself with no power at all from your solar power system. This situation could be the result of either disconnected or improperly connected wires. Check to see if all connections have been made and verify that none are reversed.

The temperature of various components is of serious concern when it comes to your charge controller. The worst-case scenario is the core of your battery overheating, which could lead to significant damage. The controller itself can also overheat, which should happen before the battery does, in order to prevent further damage.

An optional temperature sensor is also available to monitor the temperature at the battery. When the battery is located a moderate distance away from the charge controller, a temperature sensor is highly recommended.

The Rover was designed for the most efficient and advanced solar power system. It can be used with flooded, gel, sealed, or lithium iron phosphate batteries. The 20A, 30A, and 40A models are compatible with 12V or 24V systems. The 60A and 100A models can support 36V or 48V systems. Each of the Rover models has an LCD screen and multiple LED indicators, customizable parameters, and error codes, as well as 4-stage charging, and temperature compensation to increase your battery life and improve your system"s performance. All of the Rovers also have a Bluetooth port.

As mentioned above, certain charge controller models have LCD screens and LED indicators for monitoring the system from the unit. If you’d like to remotely monitor your system from wherever you may be, you’re in luck. Remotely monitoring your charge controller has never been easier, thanks to the data module for Renogy charge controllers. The

In addition to LTE options, Renogy also provides a selection of Bluetooth modules for short-range remote monitoring. These simple and affordable modules allow you to monitor the conditions of your charge controller when in use at your home, cottage, RV, or another off-grid site. The various models can offer a range of up to 82 feet.

These Bluetooth devices are powered directly through your charge controller’s RJ12 or RS485 communication port. Monitoring couldn’t be more straightforward when you can easily connect your charge controller to our Renogy DC Home app.

Our Bluetooth modules can be configured to work with a variety of solar components beyond your solar charge controller. With these convenient modules, you can monitor and control smart lithium batteries, pure sine wave inverters, battery chargers, and more.