high pitched whine lcd monitors for sale

Hi. What you are experiencing is a form of coil whine. Try messing with the monitor settings in the included monitor on screen controls. You mentioned adjusting brightness on a previous monitor. Did you have any luck adjusting the brightness on this monitor?

It looks like your monitor has multiple inputs and an external power brick. I would try switching to a different hdmi port and moving the power brick as far away as possible. It may be your power brick that is emitting that harsh noise, and not the monitor itself. Try another power brisk. You can try listening to the power brick when unplugged from the monitor to see if it emitts that specific noise. This is not the most scientific test, as the brick is not under load when unplugged from the monitor, so it may not produce a coil whine at all. If it does, find a replacement / RMA from samsung.

The high pitched noise from many LCD monitors when their brightness is reduced can be utterly distracting. Here’s a simple workaround that can work quite well with most monitors for many users. Also, please participate in our Quiet / Noisy Monitor Survey!

Many computer users have run into the issue of whining LCD monitors. Usually, it does not occur when the monitor is set to full brightness, which is usually too bright for most users. The natural response is to turn the brightness down using the monitor’s controls. That’s when the monitor can start to emit some high frequency tones, which are described most often as buzzing or whining. The noise usually gets worse the more the screen is dimmed.

It can be piercing and annoying enough to overcome even relatively high ambient noise. If you’ve spent the time and effort to study the information on SPCR and managed to achieve super-quiet performance in your computer, this whine can be absolutely frustrating. In short, it can drive people crazy.

The source of the problem appears to be components in the electronic circuit which controls the brightness of the CFL bulb that lights most LCD monitors. Most likely, this is some form of PWM (pulse width modulation) circuit, a very useful tool that, alas, can have negative side effects. For example, while it allows a fan to start reliably at unusually low speed, an improperly matched PWM control circuit can cause a DC fan to emit more clicking, buzzing and chattering noise as it is slowed. A similar effect may be happening with the monitor CFL bulbs. To modify this electronic circuit in order to reduce or eliminate the whining noise is an impossible challenge for most users.

This workaround will obviously not work for LCD monitors that whine even at full brightness. A replacement with another sample or model is recommended in such cases. We have not tried replacing the CFL bulb of afflicted LCD monitors; it probably is not the cause, however. Interestingly, the whine of CRT monitors can usually be reduced by setting its internal brightness control down. It’s also not clear whether any LED-lit monitors suffer the same problem. CAUTION: If you are an image professional (or advanced amateur) who relies on color accuracy, this may not be a good solution. For details, please see the discussion in the forum linked below. If you find the color degradation with this approach to be serious, you may also want to try a combination of both monitor hardware brightness control and video driver software brightness reduction. With a decent monitor, for typical computer uage, you should be able to find a happy compromise between image integrity and aural peace.

Please help us help you! The SPCR staff and lab can only examine and report on a finite number of products. Reader contributions can expand our reach tremendously. Everyone viewing this page has a monitor. In the forum discussion linked above, please post the make and model of your monitor and whether it whines. If it does, describe the degree, nature and conditions. As this log grows, everyone can benefit by using it as a quick reference. When it gets big enough, we will turn it to a table with multiple models, samples and ratings, and keep it uptodate. It will become a highly useful resource for quiet monitor seekers.

We continue to explore the issue of high frequency tonal noise from many computer components. As we approach ever lower noise levels, this electronic whining often becomes critical; in “normal” (read: noisy) computers, it is masked by the noise of fans and hard drives. Power supplies, motherboards and video cards are the other main sources of electronic whine. The whine is often associated with power components, usually capacitors and coils. Poor circuit design is probably at fault; electronic resonances in circuits can cause the components to vibrate or ring, and the whining we hear is directly related to that ringing.

I have a cheap LCD that sometimes exhibits this problem (Chimei CMV 938D). For me, the most effective solution is playing with the brightness levels - it never whines at 100% brightness. I"ve always assumed it was the capacitors, though I"ve never been sufficiently motivated to take it apart and investigate.

I"ve had this screen for 2 years now, and it"s done it since it was new, so while it might be an early warning of death, I"ve always just figured it was a function of a cheap build. Admittedly I don"t often run mine in the brightness range where it whines.

Thank you for posting this. It is still unresolved as of 12/6/2021. I have the same display. I run it in its native resolution of 3,440 x 1,440. I am having this issue where at random times, the display emits a high pitched "whine", like a dog whistle that a human can hear. I recorded it. It is extremely annoying to the point where it distracts from my work. At first, I thought maybe it was a cable issue. I have confirmed this issue both with HDMI and Display Port cables. Then I attempted to change the frequency from 60-100 Hz. Then I factory reset the display (thinking maybe a combination of brightness, contrast, sharpness, or audio level caused the issue). I confirmed this occurs with Mac OS, Windows 11, and Windows 10. I have the latest drivers from Dell and all systems are up to speed with System Updates. I"m unable to predict when this will occur nor can I determine why it does. I contacted Dell as this display is only 1 week old and they have issued a replacement. I will post back here on this thread if the replacement device emits the same issue. I hope it is a random occurrence because the display is beautiful, the speakers pretty good, and I don"t want to have to return it entirely and start my search for a display replacement all over.

Both new and old computers can experience what’s called “coil whine,” which is a high-pitched noise that comes from the computer. It’s easy to jump to the conclusion that the noise is a sign of major computer failure or that something is broken, loose, or about to explode.

Fortunately, coil whine is normal behavior. When you hear a high-pitched sound from your computer, there"s no reason to assume that your computer is toast, that your hard drive is about to die, or anything like that.

In fact, this high-pitched noise is really nothing more than an annoyance. If you can bear the noise, you don’t need to do anything to fix it. There are, however, some things you can do to reduce or eliminate coil whine if it’s too much for you to handle.

Coil whine is a high-pitched sound some devices inside the computer case can create under certain situations. This hiss or squeal resembles a dull, boiling teapot sound, only usually much quieter.

This high-pitched whining noise isn’t always heard by everyone in the same way since the frequency varies and not everyone can hear the same frequencies. In fact, most components in a computer produce a sound but it’s usually just too quiet for most to hear.

Not only is the loudness of the whine dependent on the person hearing it, it also matters how much electricity is moving through the wiring and, of course, the distance the computer is from your ears!

Nearly any device can experience coil whine but it’s common for video cards to make a high-pitched sound since they’re often used for high-intensity tasks—like video games, graphics editing, and video playback — and are usually being used for those tasks for hours at a time.

One way to verify what’s producing the noise so that you can better determine how to fix it is to pay very close attention to when the noise happens. If the noise is much louder than usual when you’re playing video games, you might blame your video card (that"s probably what"s causing the high-pitched sound anyway).

However, be careful to not confuse other noises — like pops, rattles, or clicks — for high-pitched sounds and just assume it"s coil whine and walk away without addressing it. For example, a squealing noise might at first seem like coil whine but it could actually be noise from the hard drive pointing to a failing HDD, and another sound might more accurately be a sign of a rapidly overheating power supply.

Even if the noise isn"t coil whine, it doesn"t mean that whatever it is is causing a problem. For example, if your computer makes a noise each time you"re doing something like burning a movie to a disc or ripping music from a CD, that"s just the optical disc drive—it"s normal to hear the disc spin.

In other words, it"s important to listen for the distinct hissing that most likely means the problem is with a vibrating coil, in which case it can be called coil whine and you can address it as such.

You might even experience a high-pitched noise when the computer is off! This is most likely an issue with the power supply. Something you can try in that situation is replacing the power cord with one that features a ferrite bead.

Some “coil whine fix” solutions online will tell you that you cannot do anything to fix a high-pitched noise coming from your computer, but that just isn’t true.

You’ll also read that coil whine is a symptom of a broken computer, and while it’s true that it could mean that the components making the noise are inexpensive or not designed to shield sound or vibrations, it’s not a tell-tale sign that something isn’t working.

There are multiple things you can try to reduce the effects of coil whine, from addressing the wiring directly to buying or building a computer made specifically to absorb noise, but those are the more drastic solutions.

Move your computer further away from you! I know, this doesn’t really sound like a good solution for actually fixing coil whine, but it can definitely reduce all those noises coming from your computer and is by the far the easiest method to try.

When these components, especially fans, collect enough dust that it slows down how they work, it can force them to run faster to make up for it, which is going to demand more power and thus produce more noise like coil whine.

If reseating fixes the noise, it’s possible that it wasn’t coil whine but instead just vibrations from a device rattling against its own frame or slot on the motherboard or case.

If the GPU is rendering too many frames too quickly, it’s going to cause your GPU to work more than you need it to, which could be the cause of the coil whine. Similarly, you might hear sounds from your fan if they"re overworking.

Paint insulating varnish or coil lacquer, available at Amazon, on the specific coils that you suspect are causing the high-pitched noise. Once it dries, the liquid will form a thick, protective barrier around the coils that should help reduce or even completely stop the coil whine.

This technique seems to be a popular one for fixing coil whine but it’s obviously not the easiest method, which is why it’s so far down this list. You first have to know what, specifically, is causing the high-pitched noise before the lacquer will do you any good.

Replace the part that’s making the high-pitched noise. If it’s still under warranty, you might be able to get a free replacement because of the excessive noise, but most manufacturers will not cover a replacement when the problem is just a high-pitched sound. The reality here is that the replacement will probably suffer from coil whine, too.

When buying a new computer part to fix coil whine, try looking at places that have a good return policy so that, if after running a benchmark on the hardware the high-pitched noise is too much of a bother or comes on too easily, you can just return it and look elsewhere.

Before committing to buying any new computer part, check the reviews and see what other users are saying about coil whine. If there are lots of complaints, you’d be wise to avoid buying anything that will just repeat the problem you’re trying to fix.

If you don’t want to go as far as replacing the hardware, and nothing else worked to stop the coil whine, you’re left with just dealing with it. Since there’s nothing actually wrong with the computer when the only symptom is a high-pitched noise, you could just use noise-cancelling headphones whenever you’re on your computer. That should be enough to block or drown out the noise.

Hello,

I had noticed a high-pitched whine from my monitor while playing the Beta version of a certain game (since the official release, the Refresh rate was lowered).

More recently, I had increased my screen resolution from 1024*768 to 1152*864. Since then, I"ve had a problem with a high-pitched whine. I had lowered the Refresh Rate from 75Hz to 70Hz, which caused the noise to cease... but not permanently. It occasionally recurs and ends later on (sometimes if I turn off the monitor for a few second/minutes); I"ve come to ignore it after a while.

A few minutes ago, the display itself began flickering slightly, and this accompanied by the same whine. As this worried me, I turned down the resolution to 60 Hz temporarily and decided to ask about this.

On a side-note, I cannot bear 60 Hz, considering I spend much time on the computer, likely more than is healthy. =P

I"ve been doing a bit of research on the whine, and was reminded that the last time I checked my monitor"s maximum refresh rate, I was using a lower resolution. My monitor manufacturer"s website does not mention the max. refresh rate for my resolution.


I have come here to ask the following:
- What are the possible causes of this; could it cause permanent damage or lower the life of my monitor? Or is a failing monitor the cause? Is my monitor capable of handling the 1152*846 resolution at 70 Hz?
- Is there any way to calculate maximum refresh rate for a monitor at a given resolution, assuming you have that very data for two or more other resolutions? Or alternatively, could somebody find out the maximum refresh rate for the Daytek DT-95A monitor at 1152*864 resolution?

EDIT: And before anybody starts linking me to Daytek"s website, note how there"s no listing of maximum refresh rate for my resolution.

In normal operating conditions, there shouldn"t be such high pitched noise with monitors. Please connect the monitor to different AC outlet and try to lower the refresh rate.

1. Check the video cables. Make sure the cable is securely connected and if possible change the cable. If using an LCD TV in Video mode, make sure the cable is connected to the correct input.

I’ve just bought thisHP L2245w 22-inch Widescreen LCD Monitor and there’s a constant high pitched buzzing / squealing when it’s plugged in (whether it’s on standby or not). The only way to stop it is to remove the power source completely. What can I do about this? It’s so distracting and means I can’t work or sleep in the same room.

PC monitors that make loud noises aren’t very welcome in most people’s homes, and chances are that loud, high-pitched noises coming from them are an indication of something that’s wrong. There can be multiple reasons why this occurs with monitors, which doesn’t particularly help.

Having a high-pitched noise coming from your computer is obviously very annoying, and furthermore makes the user experience horrible. So, why do PC monitors sometimes make high-pitched noises for no apparent reason?

The most common issue that causes noise coming from your PC monitor is that your LCD monitor has a problem regarding the circuits in the monitor that controls brightness. The solution is to raise the brightness to the max in your monitor settings. After this, you can lower the brightness in your GPU control panel to compensate for the high brightness of the monitor.

Now that you’re aware of the most common problem and solution regarding high-pitched noises coming from PC monitors, let’s go over it in detail. I’ll provide detailed information on how you do the above fix and further information on what to do if this solution doesn’t help you.

As I mentioned previously, LCD monitors sometimes have problems with the circuits in the monitor that controls the lighting. Without getting into specifics of the components, you can fix this by enhancing the brightness settings on your monitor.

Monitors have buttons, usually located at the bottom of the screen, that can control different settings for you. Exactly what these settings depend on what monitor you have, but brightness is a universal setting.

Another quick fix you can try is turning your monitor audio setting down to 0. For some monitors, this can be achieved in the monitor setting on the monitor itself. The button is usually found at the bottom of the screen, close to the power button.

Try to remove as many peripherals as possible, and see if your monitor still whines. Also, remove things such as TVs, radios, etc from the close proximity of your PC setup, as these things can cause interferences and make your PC monitor whine.

Remove dongles, game controllers, and other stuff from your USB ports, too. This way, we can quickly rule out any peripherals/other devices such as radios from being the reason for the high-pitched noises.

If you bought your monitor recently, chances are that you can still return it and get your money back. Manufacturing errors with monitors and similar products aren’t the rarest of occurrences, which means that your monitor can have some sort of manufacturing issue.

If you’re unlucky, the issue lies within your building’s bad electrical wiring, but I would still recommend that you try this out. Move it as far from its original position as you can within your household and see if the monitor still produces the high-pitched noise.

Users have reported that the noise scales with their refresh rate. This is to say, the higher the refresh rate, the louder the noise. This is therefore a bit of a desperate solution, but you can lower your refresh rate to see if the noise lowers in intensity.

I realize that it isn’t optimal to sacrifice the refresh rate in order to lower the annoying noise coming from your screen, but you can try at least. If this is the case, there is a high likelihood of your monitor having some sort of faulty component.

I"ve just  found the solution to an irritating problem with one of my computer monitors that makes a high-pitched sound when the computer is in sleep mode.

A quick Google search showed quite a few people were having this issue with various brands of monitors (mine"s an iiyama) and the general solution seemed to be; "they"re only $100, buy another one".

Well, one idea was that some monitors have a setting to make them turn on faster - when this is on, the lighting component is constantly heated so it turns on faster (doesn"t sound great for the environment!).

If you"ve ever been around old computers with their big, boxy displays, you"re probably familiar with a subtle but obnoxious noise they make: a high-pitched whine.

Old computer screen utilize something called a flyback transformer, which sends out waves colloquially known as sawtooth signals because of their up and down appearance when visualized. On older screens, an electromagnet would bend the waves across the screen. That electron beam would scan across a screen 625 times, 25 times per second. The flyback transformer ramps up 15625 times a second, and the high-pitched sound is at the annoyingly high 15625 Hz.

The sound is easy to miss if there"s something louder over it. It"s also easy to miss as you get older, when your hearing starts to diminish. Fortunately with the advent of modern LCD and LED screens, that whine is a thing of the past. Or, at the very least, it"s a great reason to upgrade your tech.

I"m experiencing a very annoying high-pitched buzzing sound with my Studio Display, I"ve spoken to others on Twitter who also have the problem and I"ve had Apple support on the case but nothing was resolved.

I have an electric car with a charger built into the house power supply, when the car is plugged in and charging the Studio Display"s noise becomes excruciatingly high pitched and loud. Due to this I charge the car over night these days.

Here"s a video of the sound, it"s hard to pick up so you may need headphones. Ignore the background noise, the high pitched tone should be audible. In real life it"s much more obvious and very annoying.

Another person with the high-pitched whine issue. Original unit was really bad in terms of the noise. Replacement unit was slightly better but still bad. Spoke to Breville support again and asked them to please send replacement unit after someone had actually inspected it for this issue. Was assured multiple times on c…

Another person with the high-pitched whine issue. Original unit was really bad in terms of the noise. Replacement unit was slightly better but still bad. Spoke to Breville support again and asked them to please send replacement unit after someone had actually inspected it for this issue. Was assured multiple times on call by rep that once I sent back the 2nd unit they would repair this specific unit and send it back to me. Do you think they did this? Of course not. They sent me a 3rd replacement--a refurbished unit with the same issue. Breville says this is not an "established issue" because not all people hear the noise. It seems prevalent enough that it should be.

The Asus ProArt Display PA278CV has a great-looking screen with good enough color accuracy for most people and all the ports you need to hook up desktop or laptop PCs. The PA278CV’s stand can tilt, swivel, and pivot the screen and raise and lower its height, its USB-C port can provide enough power to charge most 13-inch laptops, and it comes with a three-year warranty and a good dead-pixel policy. Its QHD resolution (2560×1440) means it isn’t as sharp as a 4K screen, but it’s also hundreds of dollars cheaper than comparable 4K monitors.

The Dell S2722QC is a 3840×2160 display that’s great for anyone who watches 4K content or casually edits photos or video. However, if most of your time is spent on general office work or browsing the internet, you don’t really need to spend the extra cash. The S2722QC has a USB-C port with 65 watts of charging, so it can power most laptops except higher-end devices like the Dell XPS 15-inch or the 16-inch MacBook Pros (which are picks in our guide to the best laptops for video and photo editing). For more powerful 4K displays, check out our guide for the best 4K monitors.

You’ve probably seen terms like HD and Full HD on the boxes of monitors and TVs, but what does that mean? As you may have guessed, HD refers to “High Definition,” a quick way to refer to a high-quality video output. So if you see the term “Full HD” on a monitor box, that’s just a shorthand to denote its resolution, which would be 1920 by 1080, also called 1080p. The reason why it’s specified as “Full HD” is that there are also some TVs and monitors that output at 720p (high definition but not relatively as high as 1080p), which is 1280 by 720 pixels. 1080p is considered the current standard for monitors, and popular manufacturers, including Dell, Acer, Samsung, LG, BenQ and Viewsonic, offer a variety of 1080p monitors in their product lineups.

As you can imagine, the more pixels there are to display, the more critical it is that your monitor has a high refresh rate, especially when it comes to gaming. Typically, the standard has been a 120-hertz refresh rate in gaming monitors, but many features a 144-hertz refresh rate. The quicker a monitor can refresh the display, and the smoother the visual experience will be. This is because the refresh rate in the monitor works in tandem with a low response time (which specifies how quickly the monitor can send and receive new information) to make a seamless visual transition. Sometimes, if the response rate is not quick enough, some residual pixels can remain on the screen as the monitor is trying to refresh new ones. This is called ‘ghosting.’ Although it’s standard to have a four-millisecond response time on many gaming monitors, Samsung, LG, BenQ, Viewsonic, and more all offer 2k and 4k monitors with one-millisecond response times. It is also important to ensure refresh rates are identical if you plan to sync two monitors for your display.

Regarding the internal specs, response time and refresh rate are the main factors contributing to a smooth, immersive viewing experience. Still, the physical panel type of the monitor can also play into this. First, there’s the matter of how the monitor lights up: either with LCD or LED. The main difference lies in the material that is used to light the liquid crystals in the display. In LCD, it’s cold cathode fluorescent lamps (CCFLs), and in LEDs, it’s tiny light emitting and low-energy consuming diodes. This is the preferred type in most monitors because it consumes less power and produces less harsh light, so darker colors appear more vivid. Additionally, LED monitors can be much thinner than LCD ones.

Newer LCD monitors have improved with the implementation of IPS (In-Plane Switching) panels. For some, it’s a matter of preference, but where the IPS panels have shown their strength with accurate color reproduction, which is great for content creators who want to do photo editing or graphic design. The panel type you choose depends more on preference than anything else. Samsung is well known for championing the IPS panel in their monitors, and many people also enjoy using them for gaming.

As touch navigation becomes more normalized due to mobile browsing, you may also want to consider a touch monitor for maximum accessibility. Planar offers a 22-inch optical touchscreen monitor that is highly portable due to its USB connection type. For something you can use in meetings for presentations, Dell provides a capacitive touchscreen monitor that also features an IPS panel.

Finally, another consideration is whether there are enough HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia Interface) ports. HDMI allows simultaneous digital video and audio transmission from one source to another. While HDMI ports are often standard, especially on gaming monitors, verifying that a monitor has enough HDMI compatibility for your setup before purchasing is essential.

Since monitors have to be lit in order for the viewer to see anything, the difference between the two types is in what is used to light up the crystals within the display. For LCD, that’s cold cathode fluorescent lamps (CCFL’s) and in LEDs, it’s tiny light emitting and low-energy consuming diodes. LED monitors tend to be thinner and more power-efficient, but improvements in the panel types have made LCDs more competitive.