orange pi zero tft display quotation

Here the same, I can only get the display working with: busnum=1, every other parameter or deleting this parameter let the screen white and I get the same error message like above.

*/fragment@1{target=<&pio>;__overlay__{ads7846_pins:ads7846_pins{pins="PA1";function="irq";//bias-pull-up;};};};fragment@2{target=<&spi1>;__overlay__{#address-cells = <1>;#size-cells = <0>;status="okay";ads7846@0{compatible="ti,ads7846";reg=<1>;/* Chip Select 0 */status="okay";pinctrl-names="default";pinctrl-0=<&ads7846_pins>;spi-max-frequency=<1600000>;interrupt-parent=<&pio>;interrupts=<012>;/* PA1 IRQ_TYPE_EDGE_FALLING */pendown-gpio=<&pio010>;/* PA1 *//* driver defaults, optional */ti,x-min=/bits/16<0>;ti,y-min=/bits/16<0>;ti,x-max=/bits/16<0x0FFF>;ti,y-max=/bits/16<0x0FFF>;ti,pressure-min=/bits/16<0>;ti,pressure-max=/bits/16<0xFFFF>;ti,x-plate-ohms=/bits/16<400>;};};};};

– orange pi zero all have 2 SPI bus: one in the main GPIO port, and one for the flash on the back side. If you don’t have the plus model, you can unsolder the FLASH and use the port. FLASH is port 1, so, GPIO is port 1. This is very important when you follow tutorials written for other opis

– before you start following a tutorial, you need to understand which kernel you are using. If the turial is written after jan 2017, and mentions adding an overlay in armbianEnv.txt, then it’s for kernel 4; if the tuto is before feb 2018, and does not mention altering armbianEnv.txt for SPI compatibility, author is using kernel 3. This is critical.

Orange Pi has released the Zero2, a small form factor SBC based on the Allwinner H616 64-bit system on chip (SoC). Capable of supporting Android 10 natively, it contains a quad-core Cortex-A53 processor with integrated Mali G31 graphics. Connectivity is available via Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and Ethernet, and the Zero2 supports a range of video decoding options up to 4k@60fps.

Compared to Orange Pi Zero, Orange Pi Zero2 offers a 64-bit Arm processor, more RAM up to 1GB, dual-band WiFi, Bluetooth 5.0 (no Bluetooth at all in Pi0), Gigabit Ethernet, and power via a USB-C port instead of a micro USB port.

While googling for any info about lcd controller I came across this page: http://heikki.virekunnas.fi/2015/raspberry-pi-tft/, author managed to get from manufacturer patch file for kernel sources and tested it with 4.1.y - on which lcd worked. But still LCD replace HDMI, but I want to use this screen as additional for user interaction, while the bigger on HDMI as presentation monitor.

Since, fbtft has been merged with rpi kernel, so the fb drivers (including ili9341.c) was moved to fbtft_device driver (so the author of page can"t compile latest kernel with driver+patch).

So something about hardware, which I reverse engineered by the "hard way" - "grab multimeter and run through all LCD FPC pins and shift register pins"

I"m pretty sure about D/C (Pin 37 on LCD) and Reset (Pin 19 on LCD) pins by looking into driver code, but I can"t identify other signals (WR/RD/CS/etc...)

[ 0.000000] Kernel command line: dma.dmachans=0x7f35 bcm2708_fb.fbwidth=656 bcm2708_fb.fbheight=416 bcm2709.boardrev=0xa01041 bcm2709.serial=0x2938b030 smsc95xx.macaddr=B8:27:EB:38:B0:30 bcm2708_fb.fbswap=1 bcm2709.disk_led_gpio=47 bcm2709.disk_led_active_low=0 sdhci-bcm2708.emmc_clock_freq=250000000 vc_mem.mem_base=0x3dc00000 vc_mem.mem_size=0x3f000000 dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 console=tty1 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext4 elevator=deadline rootwait

- Controller is not ILI9341/ILI9325 - those are for smaller displays (320x240, etc...), I guess this might be ILI9486/9488 because they are for 480x320 displays. But when I compared init with DS it does not fit right so LCD can have a clone of ILI9486/9488 ...

- Module use only SPI interface and two CE signals (CE0 for touch controller, CE1 for LCD shift registers - compared to others lcd modules, in KeDei module this is swapped),

Elsewhere in the blog I’ve referred to Tuya-Convert – which I have been running on the Raspberry Pi. Today Antonio (Mr Shark – based in Italy) and I took on the MINOR task of putting Tuya-Convert on an otherwise unused Orange Pi Zero.

Caviat: I should say at the start, that the process has been 90%+ successful (no utter failures) so far, with all the smart sockets we converted to Tasmota with Tuya-convert working first time but out of twelve ZemiSmart RGBCCW lamps, three failed to convert with Tuya-Convert – and I had to open them up and program them using wires (five including the ground, 3v3, GPIO0, rx and tx lines, conveniently brought out onto tiny PCB pads). The reason for the initial falures is not as yet totally clear. However in the end, all the ESP8266-based items we reprogrammed, worked in the end.

We originally started with a bare-bones Raspberry Pi 3 and a little NodeMCU ESP8266 board – and that worked fine but I felt guilty about tying up an RPi for this job, so then we tried a bare-bones Orange Pi Zero and the same NodeMCU-type ESP8266 board (i.e. any old ESP-12 board).

For the RPi version, start with an RPi2 or 3 with a fresh install of raspbian LITE, then create an empty “ssh” file in the boot partition (the fat32 one).

Login via ssh (on, say a PC) and run “sudo raspi-config”, go to localisation, “WiFi country” and BE SURE to select your country, otherwise “tuya-convert” will fail to bring up the wlan0 (WiFi) interface – this is important…

Alternatively as we have done now, use an Orange Pi Zero (OP0). Load“Armbian Buster” and install the microSD as per instructions on the Armbian website. The only thing to note is that Armbian-config does not set up any WIFI country on the OP0 so we had to do that by hand.

The last line when running Armbinan-config on a new OP0 will be “REGDOMAIN=” – that is NO GOOD for the OP0 – it MUST have a valid country – set that in the standard NANO editor to “REGDOMAIN=UK” without the quotes in the file shown above. On the Raspberry Pi an equivalent gets entered elsewhere by the initial setup when you set up the country and REGDOMAIN remains empty.

Start the flash process – on the OP0 as user ROOT (I arbitrarily added user Pi on initial setup of the OP0 but to avoid using SUDO, ultimately it was easier to simply use ROOT). On the RPI, user “pi” works just fine. In the tuya-convert folder you need to enter…

and follow instructions… assuming both the PI and the ESP8266 “donor” device are turned on and reasonably close, you’ll see the blinking LED on the DONOR device (in our case the NodeMCU board) turn solid blue once it connects to the vtrust-flash ssid, then you can put the hacking device (In our case, an ESP8266-based smartbulb or an ESP8266-based smart plug) in fast flashing mode and press ENTER in the Tuya console.

Below – with a little tidying up, Tuya-Convert on an Armbian-equipped Orange Pi Zero, boxed. My Raspberry Pi version needed a separate box for the USB-connected NodeMCU board and I can think of other uses for an RPi-3 whereas the OP0 was going to waste before this.

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What is the best Pi Zero? Is it the Raspberry Pi? Radxa? BananaPi? OrangePi? Or is it their RISC-V cousin, the MangoPi? Building on the Raspberry Pi Zero vs Mango Pi MQ Pro comparison, that guy on Reddit now gets his wish of seeing how the MQ Pro compares to the Pi Zero 2 W.

To make it abundantly clear from the get-go, I’m not comparing these boards because I think they’re all comparable in performance because they’re simply not. There will be clear winners and losers in each category but if you’re interested in these boards and want to see how Raspberry Pi Zero form-factor alternatives compete then this is the data for you!

Without wanting to ramble too much (if you know me, you know that’s a hard task), I present to you the testing of 7 Single Board Computers that all call themselves a “Zero” or fit into the Pi Zero form factor. Though when it comes to the OrangePi, you’re just calling yourself a Zero whilst being a little bit beefier. It was deemed to be a bit nasty if I left them out though so I’ve included them for comparison if you’re more of a citrus person.

You’ll see that we have a range of different SoCs on show here, though there should be some clear winnersRaspberry Pi Zero WBCM2835 ARMv7 @ 1.00GHz (1 Core)

As most of the boards in this lineup support 64bit operating systems, we’ve put those through the AArch64 version of Geekbench 5.4. It’s largely as you’d expect, with Broadcom’s A7 cores faring better than the Allwinner H3 in the BananaPi M2 Zero and the Radxa Zero leading the pack.

There isn’t a great spread amongst the other quad-core boards here, though, with twice as much, faster RAM, the MQ Pro manages to hold on.Raspberry Pi Zero W512MB DDR2

I’m still trying to figure out exactly what’s going on in the Stdlib Copy results here for the Orange Pi Zero 2. I re-ran the test another 6 times, all with the same result and I’m not too sure what was causing that!

Only the Orange Pi boards had on-board ethernet and with the Orange Pi Zero 2 having a Gigabit port, this skews things a little. USB performance is fairly uniform, with the speeds hovering around 300Mbit in either direction on the quad-core boards and 200-250 on the single cores. When it comes to WiFi though, the Banana Pi really does suffer (all of these tests were done at 1m with a direct line of sight to the AP too!) whereas the rest are more than capable for the workloads you’re going to throw at these boards.

It’s worth noting though that the Orange Pi Zero 2 does have a few issues, even with the external antenna. Speeds will fluctuate heavily between a few Mbit to the 70+ you see in the graph. Perhaps a software issue that’s fixed in a certain kernel/image?

When it comes to SD card performance, all perform near enough identically so you’re going to want to take a look at the long-term reviews and reliability statistics to make your decision on what specific card to use. The MangoPi MQ Pro runs a little slower on the sequential reads and writes so if you need more than 11MB/s~ on that front, you may want to choose one of the alternatives.

To note, the Radxa Zero model I used in this test has 32GB of eMMC storage onboard and can be booted from without an SD card. It will be much faster than an SD card and prevent you from needing one so if you’re factoring that into your budget for a new board then paying a little more for the higher-end model with eMMC may be a worthwhile investment.

Performance isn’t everything though when it comes to considering your next tiny Single Board Computer, you’ll also want to know how much damage they’ll do to your bank account! Each of the prices below was the current price from official stores/distributors as of August 22nd 2022 in USD excluding any sales taxes or shipping fees. The Orange Pi Zero 2 doesn’t seem to be sold in a 512MB configuration, so I’ve linked and provided the price to the 1GB (even better!) and the Orange Pi Zero LTS now ships with an H3 CPU, rather than the H2+ tested here.

If you do run into issues, Armbian, BananaPi and MangoPi all have forums. Do remember though that Armbian is run by volunteers with limited resources and the others are smaller manufacturers with heavy community support focuses so do be patient, provide as much information as possible and consider donating where possible if they help!

Obviously out of this lineup the Radxa Zero comes out on top but that’s not entirely fair as that also costs much more than the others. The answer to this question will ultimately depend on what you’re looking to do. Interested in the RISC-V with its comparable performance to the Pi Zero W? Go for the MQ Pro! Want the most powerful Raspberry Pi option in the Zero form factor? Then the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W is what you need. If however, you’re unable to find any of these in stock and you start browsing for alternatives then that’s where it gets interesting.

The BananaPi M2 Zero comes in the same package as the Raspberries so it can drop into any identical project but it has poor WiFi capabilities unless you add an external antenna to your order which isn’t going to work for everyone.

The Orange Pi boards both come with external antennas and perform well for the most part, albeit in a larger form factor. If you’re looking for heavy-duty SBC but you’re unable to provide active cooling, the Orange Pi Zero LTS may not be the best option for you. Its more powerful younger brother, the Orange Pi Zero 2 though, offers full-size USB and Gigabit ethernet, coupled with around 60% of the processing power of the Radxa Zero and 70% more than the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W.

There will be so many variables in play, that it’s hard for me to cover everything here but I hope that the information above helps in some way to see what your options may be when it comes to Raspberry Pi Zero alternatives.

Shortly after posting this article, I was alerted to a potential issue with the data in my OrangePi Zero 2 testing (thanks, @salva_lieb / MicroLinux!) This was found to be an issue with the image I was using not allowing the CPU to go above 1GHz and as this is a 1.5GHz SoC, this severely hindered the results. I have now updated the figures for each of the tests where this made a difference. I re-tested power but on were all within a margin of error (0.05W-0.08W) so I’ve left these as is. The temperatures though did change as expected so this has been updated too. Apologies to anyone that may have used this data to make a purchasing decision!

for a school project I recently bought an Orange Pi +2 hoping to use it to control a few electronics with the GPIO pins. I have many years of Java experience so I naturally wanted to write my code in that language. When trying to install pi4j which is a java library for raspberry pi I get this error: