mcwill lcd screen supplier

The installation of the Magic Screen requires (in addition to the original screen and its backlight system of course) the removal of only 3 components.

Thus the Magic Screen consumes between 1.6W and 2W depending on the backlight setting chosen and we have chosen to equip the kit with a switch-mode power supply for maximum reliability. We did not want to risk the linear power supply which sometimes causes a short circuit in the kit or in the console.

With an LCD replacement mod kit you can transform your Atari Lynx to look and feel like a modern day console. These kits feature contemporary LCD displays with nice and clear graphics and vibrant colours. You no longer have to turn and twist your Lynx to get the best image! The quality in picture compared to the original is like night and day.

We"ve designed the V1 GG lcd kit to give the absolute best image quality for the price. We use IPS panels with an amazing viewing angle, deep blacks, rich colors and bright whites. IPS is the technology used in smart phones - vs TFT which was the standard used in the 2000"s. The V1 kit does not provide VGA out.

Note: PCB images are of the prototype, production board will be smaller and attached to the LCD.  Shell modification is required. Soldering is required.

Today we’re pleased to announce that we are now a distributor for the excellent McWill replacement Game Gear LCD screen. These new LCD screens will give your classic Sega hand held a whole new lease of life. With improved brightness, contrast and sharpness, these screens make playing the Game Gear fun again! Just look at the difference they make over the dated, original LCD.

The screens are available for DIY fitting right now, click here to learn more and get hold of one. We will also be offering a fitting service for these parts as soon as we’ve cleared the current backlog in our workshop.

I have one 2 ASIC VA1 Game Gear that has been slowly failing over the past few months. I would like some help diagnosing the problem. This GG has had all of its capacitors replaced (all three boards) and received the McWill LCD upgrade.

By July I could not reliably get games to load past their splash screens. The red GG LED would cut out at this point and the system would reset. This would continue until I cut the power.

I currently have the LCD mod completely disconnected from my system. I am verifying correct operation based on the LED turning on and music coming through the speaker. Currently, I see/hear neither of these.

I have one 2 ASIC VA1 Game Gear that has been slowly failing over the past few months. I would like some help diagnosing the problem. This GG has had all of its capacitors replaced (all three boards) and received the McWill LCD upgrade.

By July I could not reliably get games to load past their splash screens. The red GG LED would cut out at this point and the system would reset. This would continue until I cut the power.

I currently have the LCD mod completely disconnected from my system. I am verifying correct operation based on the LED turning on and music coming through the speaker. Currently, I see/hear neither of these.

Hi, what a great forum i probably should have signed up for it some time ago! Please forgive me first of all as i have come here seeing some advice. I recently purchased a Game Gear and have recapped it. At first everything is fine, nice screen and loud audio :) However after the game gear has been on for about 15-20 mins i have noticed the right hand side of the screen becomes much brighter than the rest of the screen at the same time the console becomes warm. I have tried this with 2 psu"s and also batteries - happens every time. Can anyone shed any light on this, could the tube be at fault or is there something more obvious that i am maybe missing? Any advice would be appreciated thanks!

After "fixing" the first GG and encountering the problem, I tried the power and sound board on a not yet fixed mainboard and it worked fine. I had sound and it stayed on. There was no screen because the caps were not yet replaced on the main board. After replacing those caps, the auto-off also happened to the second main board.

Hi, did you solve this issue? Because I have the same problem. I change all capatitors, clean everything, but still not getting good picture. Contrast wheel works and game loads, but it is almost invisible on screen.

i"v the same issue too. Image almost visible. all caps replaced with 2 different kits. After the first recap it worked for a couple of days correctly, after that the screen start flashing after 5 minutes of play and then completely withe with washed imaged. Any possible solution /check ?

bought a used gamegear off ebay with described screen issue appears the lcd has been super glued to the diffuser and is no longer clear. removed the diffuser and shining a 300 watt light through the back barely lights the center of the screen. any idea how to remove glue from the back of the lcd with out killing it?

bought a used gamegear off ebay with described screen issue appears the lcd has been super glued to the diffuser and is no longer clear. removed the diffuser and shining a 300 watt light through the back barely lights the center of the screen. any idea how to remove glue from the back of the lcd with out killing it?

You could try a solvent such as acetone but you"d have to be careful about applying it not letting it sit on any plastics for a long period. You could also go the expensive route, toss the screen and get a McWill mod.

NOTE: You really need new capacitors in the console for this mod to work, so you can select that service from the dropdown menu. If your console has already had a recap, then just order the LCD supply & install.

A picture off Facebook from a professional repair man, please note he uses a lot of SMD ceramic/tantalum capacitors (tantalum has the lowest ESR) the size of the caps is 1210/1206. If you find them in the right values, this is a much better option than using electrolytes, because the physical space in the console is very limited and the ceramic/tantalum caps are much more reliable. This board also has the LCD screen mod.

If the fault on your game gear is the CFL tube lights, no power light, black screen then power off. A few times switching on and off and it starts working, than it was suggested to swap tiny transistor next to the 0.47 50v caps, swapping(Q3, Q4 transistors fixed the issue in one case).

One easy thing to check is leave the Game Gear on, for some time. If your screen is still flickering pay attention to transistors (Q9 and Q10). Sometimes electrolytic fluid from leaked capacitors catches underneath one of the transistors or resistors and that can be causing a slight short.

The last resolve would be an LCD screen mod McWill or a Chinese clone. (all of the images are from FB group and are here for educational purposes only)

If the lines roll and are not static, than there is usually still hope that recapping will fix the screen issue. With static lines it usually means that there is physical damage to the screen or the driver chip died or is on its way out.

Matt Marshall from the Facebook group suggested that sometimes these lines can be removed by (very!) gently warming up the LCD chip & ribbon cable and basically attempt to re-flow the ribbon cable, this should be used as a last result as you may damage the screen. If the lines roll and are not static, than there is usually still hope that recapping will fix the screen issue.

Alex Schot from FB group: “The middle IC LCD driver chip is losing connection or failing. Sometimes applying heat to the IC (hover your soldering iron above it for example) and then pressing down will fix the issue.” You could also try with a hairdryer.

This screen was saved by changing electrolytic capacitors. If the lines roll and are not static, than there is usually still hope that recapping will fix the screen issue.

Some have tried to fix this issue by heating the right edge of the GG LCD but have also had it come back not to long after. This issue seem like a typical case off ribbon cable detaching from the screen matrix. As a last resort I would try to heat the connections and try to re-flow them.

Vertical lines aren’t unfixable so much as its only a temporary fix, they are caused the same way they are on Game boy screens, just heating the ribbon cable with hot air and pressing it down usually removes them however every time the system gets hot you fix melting the connection and it probably dying again.