scart to lcd panel free sample

Converting HDMI “super-resolution” 240p from HDMI to VGA. CPSHDMI & Raspberry Pi can be set to 240p, then along with a cheap DAC and this converter, you can get the signal on your SCART monitor/TV.

The board gets power from VGA pin 9 by default, please ensure your input device outputs +5V on pin 9. If pin 9 is N/C, you may power the VGA2SCART by bridging +5V source jumper pads 1 & 3 and using micro USB instead.

If you are using a consumer CRT TV (B&O, Sony Trinitron etc.) which requires blanking/switching voltage to use RGB, you will get a black screen/very dim picture. If this is the case, connect a micro USB cable to a +5V power source which will supply +3V to SCART pin 16. This is not needed for professional video monitors, consumer TVs with “force RGB” in menu/service menu or TVs modded for RGB SCART which should already have blanking pulled to 5V to force RGB.

This adapter does not convert RGBs to RGBHV, it simply passes through RGBs to the VGA connector. For example, the SCART2VGA will not allow you to connect your consoles that output 15kHz 240p/480i to your 31kHz 480p-only VGA monitor. It will, however, allow you connect your 240p/480i consoles to a 480i monitor, or 480p consoles to 480p monitor as long as your monitor can accept RGBs. Please ensure that your device/monitor accepts RGBs before purchasing!

Transferring signals from a SCART socket to an HDMI input? The two AV interfaces don’t really fit together. A digital interface such as HDMI cannot process the analog SCART picture and sound signals. But there are ways to overcome the hurdle between analog and digital technology.

With this article we want to conclude our round of answers to readers’ questions. One reader of our article on AUX and Co. asked how you can connect a DVD player to a television if it has no RCA input, while the DVD player has no HDMI interface. Instead, however, the DVD player could still have an older SCART output, which the modern television lacks. How do you fix this incompatibility? And is it worth the effort at all?

To establish a connection between SCART and HDMI, one hurdle has to be overcome: the incompatibility between analog signals and digital data. Like HDMI (abbreviation for High Definition Multimedia Interface), SCART (Syndicat des Constructeurs d´Appareils Radiorécepteurs et Téléviseurs) transmits both audio and video information – only as analog signals. The standard was developed as early as the 1970s and has since established itself in the home entertainment sector throughout Europe as a manufacturer-independent standard.

The advantage of the SCART interface was that it supports different analog transmission paths such as Composite Video, S-Video or RGB equally. However, SCART cannot process digital transmission methods. Even the maximum image resolution that SCART can transmit seems outdated in times of UHD (Ultra HD): the PAL standard of 720 x 576 pixels. In the meantime, HDMI has largely replaced SCART. This applies to players such as DVD and Blu-ray players as well as modern LED televisions with integrated tuners. You won’t usually find an integrated analog interface there again.

In the blog post about the TOSLINK cable, we have already explained how HDMI even competes with the widespread optical transmission standard for audio data.

Although HDMI has become the prevailing standard, it can happen that an old device is to be connected to a more modern television set – because a DVD player, for example, has an ideal value for its owner; or because you want to play old VHS cassettes with a video recorder; or because as a gaming nostalgia you want to connect your first-generation PlayStation to a flat screen. Due to the incompatibility between analog and digital transmission, it takes more than a mere mechanical-electrical adapter to transfer videos from SCART to HDMI.

Instead, a real converter is needed, which first converts the analog signal of the player into digital data. Since such active adapters usually cost at least around 30 Euros, you should consider whether the investment really makes sense.It speaks for the converters that they can upscale the analog signal to 1,080 pixels. This corresponds to Full HD quality. Another advantage is that they can often filter out audio data from the SCART signal and output it separately via jack or coaxial cable. This makes it possible to connect a SCART device directly to a modern hi-fi system or AV receiver.

However, such a converter might not be the right choice because it can be more lucrative to simply replace your DVD player with a Blu-ray player. As a rule, they are downward compatible and can play older DVDs. If you want to transfer from SCART to HDMI in order to use old VHS recorders, you can digitize the video cassettes completely at hardly any higher cost – if you have a computer or laptop. This is possible with special digitization kits (usually referred to as “grabbers”) that have both a SCART input and a USB interface for connecting to the recording computer.

Contra SCART HDMI converters: hardly higher acquisition costs for downwards-compatible Blu-ray players with HDMI; attractive alternative is the digitization of VHS cassettes.

e This pin is part of the shell/surround of the male connector. It is often connected to the overall screen in a cheap cable. In equipment, Pin 21 should be connected separately to the chassis, but often it is merely connected to all the other ground pins.

SCART (also known as Péritel or Péritélévision, especially in France, 21-pin EuroSCART in marketing by Sharp in Asia, Euroconector in Spain,EuroAV or EXT, or EIA Multiport in the United States, as an EIA interface) is a French-originated standard and associated 21-pin connector for connecting audio-visual (AV) equipment. The name SCART comes from Syndicat des Constructeurs d"Appareils Radiorécepteurs et Téléviseurs, "Radio and Television Receiver Manufacturers" Association", the French organisation that created the connector in the mid-1970s. The related European standard EN 50049 has then been refined and published in 1978 by CENELEC, calling it péritelevision, but it is commonly called by the abbreviation péritel in French.

The signals carried by SCART include both composite and RGB (with composite synchronisation) video, stereo audio input/output and digital signalling. The standard was extended at the end of the 1980s to support the new S-Video signals. A TV can be woken from standby mode and automatically switch to the appropriate AV channel when the SCART attached device is switched on. SCART was also used for high definition signals such as 720p, 1080i, 1080p with YPbPr connection by some manufacturers, but this usage is scarce due to the advent of HDMI.

In Europe, SCART was the most common method of connecting AV equipment and was a standard connector for such devices; it was far less common elsewhere.

Before SCART was introduced, TVs did not offer a standardised way of inputting signals other than RF antenna connectors, and these differed between countries. Assuming other connectors even existed, devices made by various companies could have different and incompatible standards. For example, a domestic VCR could output a composite video signal through a German-originated DIN-style connector, an American-originated RCA connector, an SO239 connector or a BNC connector.

The standard was subject to several amendments and at least 2 major revisions, approved by CENELEC on 13 November 1988 (EN 50049-1:1989) and 1 July 1997 (EN 50049-1:1997).

The SCART system was intended to simplify connecting AV equipment (including TVs, VCRs, DVD players and games consoles). To achieve this it gathered all of the analogue signal connections into a single cable with a unique connector, which normally made incorrect connections nearly impossible.

The signals carried by SCART include both composite and RGB (with composite synchronisation) video, stereo audio input/output and digital signalling. The standard was extended at the end of the 1980s to support the new S-Video signals. A TV can be awakened from standby mode, and it can automatically switch to appropriate AV channel, when the device attached to it through a SCART connector is turned on. SCART connection was also used for high definition signals like 720p, 1080i, 1080p with YPbPr connection by some manufacturers, but to the present day this connection is very scarce due to the advent of HDMI.

SCART is bi-directional regarding standard composite video and analogue audio. A TV will typically send the antenna audio and video signals to the SCART sockets all the time and watch for returned signals, to display and reproduce them. This allows "transparent" set-top boxes, without any tuner, which just "hook" and pre-process the TV signals. This feature is used for analogue pay TV like Canal Plus and was used for decoding teletext.

A VCR will often have two SCART sockets, to connect it to the TV ("up", "primary" or "1"), and for video input from a set-top box or other device ("down", "secondary" or "2"). When idle or powered off, VCRs will usually forward the signals from the TV to the set-top decoder and send the processed result back to the TV. When a scrambled show is recorded, the VCR will drive the set-top box from its own tuner and send the unscrambled signals to the TV for viewing or simple recording control. Alternatively, the VCR could use the signals from the TV, in which case it would be inadvisable to change channels on the TV during the recording.

The "down" socket can also be used to connect other devices, such as DVD players or game consoles. As long as all devices have at least one "Down and "up" socket, this allows for connecting a virtually unlimited number of devices to a single SCART socket on the TV. While audio and video signals can travel both "up" to the TV and "down" to devices farther away from the TV, this is not true for RGB (and non-standard YPBPR) signals, which can only travel towards the TV.

"Down" and "up" are conventional. Logically, the TV is the last device of the "up" chain-path (stream) and the first device in the "down" chain path. Physically, the TV is under the device which sits on its top, hence the name "set-top box" for the device. Moreover, some sockets" relative position may enforce the belief that the TV is physically the last in the down direction.

Logically, the TV is on top and ends the "up" chain-path, translating the electrical info into an image and sound. From the same logical point of view the info stream, wherever it originates, may need processing such as decrypting (decoding, descrambling) or adding captioning/subtitles. In this case the info stream is sent logically "down" to dedicated function devices. From the last processing device the info stream is sent logically "up" to the TV, through all the chain-path. Another case is when the info stream is sent "down" and not expected to be sent back "up", for example when sent to a recorder.

As audio and (composite) video use the same pins on "Down and "up" connectors (and require a crosslinked cable), it is also possible to connect two devices directly to each other without paying attention to the type of the socket.

However, this no longer works when S-Video signals are used. As straight links (RGB red and blue up) were re-purposed to carry chrominance information, the S-Video pinouts are different for "Down and "up" SCART connectors.

Paying attention to the type of socket is essential when handling component RGB/YPBPR/S-video. Damage can be caused to devices incorrectly connected as follows:

connecting SCART 1 ("up") from one device to SCART 1 ("up") of another device when both SCARTs are configured for RGB/YPBPR/S-video-up. Pins 7, 11 and 15 are outputs.

connecting SCART 2 ("down") from one device to SCART 2 ("down") of another device when both SCARTs are configured for S-video-down. Pin 7 is an output.

Damaging pins 7, 11 or 15 may result in yellow, purple or blue/green images, due to the missing blue, green or red components respectively. When using S-video, damaging pin 7 or 15 may result in black-white images due to the missing chroma component ("down" and "up" respectively). Similarly, damaging pins 7 and 15 (PB and PR) while leaving pin 11 (Y) undamaged may result in black-white images when using YPBPR. Damaging more than one of these pins may result in combined effects.

SCART enables a device to command the TV to very quickly switch between signals, in order to create overlays in the image. In order to implement captioning or subtitles, a SCART set-top box does not have to process and send back a complete new video signal, which would require full decoding and re-encoding of the color information, a signal-degrading and costly process, especially given the presence of different standards in Europe. The box can instead ask the TV to stop displaying the normal signal and display a signal it generates internally for selected image areas, with pixel-level granularity. This can also be driven by the use of a "transparent" color in a teletext page.

SCART allows a connected device to bring it in and out of standby mode or to switch it to the AV channel. A VCR or other playback device will optimally power on when a cassette is inserted, power on the TV (or switch it to video mode) and then start playing immediately if the cassette"s write protection tab is absent. When turned off, the VCR will ask the TV to power off, which it will do if it had been powered on by the VCR"s request and if it remained in video mode. Only some TVs will do this—most only implement automatic switching to and from the SCART input.

The same signal can be used by a satellite receiver or set-top box to signal a VCR that it is supposed to start and stop recording ("pin 8 recording"). This configuration usually requires that the VCR be farther from the TV than the source, so the signal usually travels "down".

SCART also supports automatic widescreen switching. This is an extension of the functionality of a pin which previously only indicated to the TV that an external signal should be displayed. Ideally, a widescreen source should offer three operating modes in order to deal with widescreen signals:

In the first case, the widescreen pin allows to indicate the current signal format, which allows widescreen TVs to adjust the image width, and widescreen-capable standard TVs to compress the scan lines of the 576i image vertically to a letterbox shape portion of the picture tube. In the second case, the widescreen SCART signal is never active and the signal source performs the adaptations itself so that the image has always a standard format as a result. Some sources assume that the TV is always capable of widescreen functionality and hence never perform the adaptations. Some sources will not even issue the widescreen signal or maintain it at the same level all the time. Other sources might offer the option of truncating the sides, but not of letterboxing, which requires significantly more processing. Notably, the circuitry of the early widescreen MAC standard decoders (e.g. the Visiopass) could not letterbox. The limitations apply mostly to satellite TVs, while DVD players can always at least letterbox and often zoom.

The cables for connecting equipment together have a male plug at each end. Some of the wires such as ground, data, switching and RGB connect to the identical pin number at each end. Others such as audio and video are swapped so that an output signal at one end of the cable connects to an input signal at the other end. The complete list of wires that are swapped are: pins 1 and 2, pins 3 and 6, pins 17 and 18, pins 19 and 20.

The original SCART specification provided for different cable (cordset) types denoted by a key color, but color-coding is rarely used and cables often use different, non-standard configurations.

Due to the relatively high signal voltages used in SCART, "hot plugging" (connecting or disconnecting devices while they are on) is not recommended. Although there is no risk of personal injury, there is the possibility of damaging electronics within the devices if the connector is inserted improperly.Class II (double-insulated) rather than earthed, the large exposed shield on the SCART connector will be held at approximately half mains voltage if it is plugged into a powered TV with the other end unplugged. If the cable is then plugged into an earthed device with a metal case, inadvertent contact with the SCART cable shield while the earthed device is touched with the other hand can cause a painful electric shock. For this reason the device end of the cable should always be plugged in first and the TV end plugged in last.

Quality differences exist in SCART cables. While a proper SCART cable uses miniature coaxial cables for the video signals, cheap SCART cables often use plain wires for all signals, resulting in a loss of image quality and greatly reducing the maximum cable length. A common problem on a cheap SCART cable is that a TV outputs a composite video signal from its internal tuner and this is induced or crosstalked onto an incoming video signal due to inadequate or non-existent screening; the result is ghostly images or shimmering superimposed on the incoming signal. To non-destructively verify if a SCART cable uses coaxial cables, unscrew the strain relief at the SCART connector and fold open the plastic shell.

Using higher-quality cables such as those with ribbon cords that have properly shielded coaxial cables inside might help in reducing a "ghosting" effect, but it does not always eliminate it due to various factors. A more permanent method is to remove pin 19 (Video Out) from the SCART plug that is put into the TV, preventing a signal from being broadcast by the TV into the cable, so it cannot cross-talk with the incoming signal.

The original specification defined pin 16 as a high frequency (up to 3 MHz) signal that blanked the composite video. The RGB inputs were always active and the signal "punches holes" in the composite video. This could be used to overlay subtitles from an external Teletext decoder.

There is no switching signal to indicate S-Video. Some TVs can auto-detect the presence of the S-Video signal but more commonly the S-Video input needs to be manually selected. The same for the rare component YPbPr, which is in many cases implemented over a composite or RGB SCART.

Non-RGB SCART male connector. Only 10 pins (2, 6, 7, 8, 11, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20) are available. Some cheap cables or devices (DVD players, TVs) have a 21-pin SCART connector or socket that actually have 10 wires connected and are thus not RGB / S-Video capable, but only CVBS.

The use of the data pins was not standardised in the original SCART specification, resulting in the use of several different protocols, both proprietary protocols and semi-proprietary protocols based on standards such as D²B.

Some of the most creative usages appeared in analogue satellite receivers. The function of decoding hybrid, time-compressed analogue-digital MAC transmissions into RGB and analogue audio was akin to making a digital receiver out of an analogue one. The D²B pins (10 and 12) were used for communicating with satellite dish positioners and for driving magnetic polarisers, before these became incorporated into LNBs. The daisy-chaining features were used to connect both a Pay TV decoder and a dish positioner/polariser to a single Decoder socket on the receiver.

CENELEC EN 50157-1 introduced AV.link as a standardised protocol to carry advanced control information between devices. It is a single-wire serial data bus and allows carrying remote control information and to negotiate analogue signal types (e.g. RGB). AV.link is also known as nexTViewLink or trade names such as SmartLink, Q-Link or EasyLink. It appears as the Consumer Electronics Control channel in HDMI.

The data pins, 10, 12, 14, were used by some manufacturers for DOLBY ProLogic, surround and multichannel on their TV sets (some high end models with built in Dolby decoders, and external surround speakers, both CRT, LCD and plasma sets, and only in Europe (and European versions of Japanese TV Sets and DVD players), and mainly on S/PDIF), in order to connect a DVD player to the TV set and stream the Dolby and DTS to the surround of the TV set. However, this protocol was rarely used, as it was limited only to a certain manufacturer, and the connections were different from a manufacturer to another, and in some cases, it was only commanded by the pin 8. In this case, it was unusable with RCA to SCART adapters. Also, if a Compatible TV with such connection and a compatible DVD with such connection, but from different manufacturers were interconnected, the surround might not work, and only the stereo sound from the DVD player was available to the TV, because some manufacturers did not use SPDIF, but an own protocol. Also, this connection might be also lost, if the connection of the DVD with the TV was made indirectly (through a VCR in daisy chaining mode, for example), however, some VCR allowed the pass-through of these signals. Some DVD player manufacturers on some models offered SPDIF only on SCART, and an adapter in order to extract the digital audio signal to send it to a home cinema. To the present day this connection remains rare, as HDMI, S/PDIF, and TOSLINK can provide multichannel audio, also some TV sets with Surround built in may have an Optical or S/PDIF INPUT, beside Output.

SCART connection was also used, in limited cases, as a high definition connection by using an YPbPr connection over scart by some television and audio video equipment (set top boxes, DVD players, Blu-ray players, etc.) manufacturers. By using an YPbPr connection, SCART could be used for high definition signals, like 720i, 720p, 1080i, 1080p. Some manufacturers were using as Y the video composite connection, while others were using the green connection as Y. With the advent of HDMI, and because the connection was not standardized (as was S-video) and limited only to a certain manufacturer, devices supporting high definition channels over SCART with YPbPr connection became scarce, if not extinct. In many cases, it was implemented over a RGB SCART or CVBS SCART and the YPbPr mode of SCART was manually switched. YPbPr became used as an independent connection, and SCART was left only for standard definition content.

Nearly all modern DVD players and set-top boxes with SCART sockets can output RGB signal, which offers superior picture quality to composite signal. However, many devices do not have RGB output turned on by default, instead defaulting to composite video: RGB often has to be set up manually in the menu or via switches on the back of the device.

The GameCube, Wii, Neo-Geo, Dreamcast, PlayStation, PlayStation 2, PlayStation 3, Xbox and Xbox 360 can output RGB, component video, S-Video, or composite video. These consoles come with the standard composite video connector, but the manufacturers and third parties sell connectors for component video hookup and for RGB SCART hookup. Where the Nintendo GameCube and Xbox automatically switch to the proper mode, the PlayStation 2 must be told via a selection in the system menu whether it is to use YPBPR or RGB video. RGB is only available on PAL region GameCube and Wii consoles, while S-Video is only available on NTSC consoles.

Some versions of legacy consoles such as Sega"s Master System, Mega Drive/Genesis and Nintendo"s SNES are capable of outputting RGB signals, and many older home computers (Amstrad CPC, later ZX Spectrum models, MSX, Commodore Amiga, Atari ST, BBC Micro and Acorn Archimedes, etc.) output RGB with composite sync suitable for SCART use, but most used varying non-standard DIN plugs. Standard-resolution arcade monitors use RGB signals with a composite sync, which is SCART-compatible.

Besides simple connection of external devices to SCART TVs, RGB SCART is used in the retrogaming scene, even including in North America, for connecting vintage games consoles (including ones internally modified for RGB or 60 Hz RGB where necessary) to:

•the RGB SCART inputs of upscalers / analogue-to-digital converters; these output over HDMI at higher than original resolution, to modern TVs / monitors / projectors / capture cards, or, via further conversion (HDMI to VGA digital-to-analogue) CRT PC monitors

•RGB SCART to S-video converters, for achieving the best video quality on a combination of a TV / monitor with S-video as its best input but with a console that cannot output S-video, but can output RGB as its best output

It was adopted in Japan for the connector"s ability to support RGB output format (no compression nor deterioration of original video signals) but, contrary to SCART in Europe, it never saw widespread use on the consumer market.

When using RGB video, the red channel uses the same pins in both standards, so red video with no audio is indicative of mismatching JP-21 SCART with EuroSCART.

As it was designed to carry analog standard-definition content, the use of SCART has declined with the introduction of new digital standards such as HDMI and DisplayPort, which can carry high-definition content and multichannel audio, though it remains commonly used. HDMI-CEC is derived from SCART"s AV.link.YPbPr connection, but this configuration is rare. The same for multichannel audio, but even this configuration remains rare, as it is not standardized.

SCART is a European standard for connecting audio-visual equipment together. Different methods of transmitting video such as composite, Y/C (S-video) and RGB are supported on the same cable. The RGB method of transmission is of particular interest as it uses Red, Green, Blue and Composite Sync pins, which is very close to the way signal is carried over a VGA cable, Red, Green, Blue, Horizontal Sync and Vertical Sync. This makes is possible to adapt a VGA output to drive a RGB-capable SCART television directly.

The RGB signals in VGA and the RGB signals found in a SCART connector are electrically compatible, but the sync signals aren"t. In VGA the vertical sync and horizontal sync are carried on separate wires, but in SCART they are both combined into a composite sync signal carried along a single wire. You need to convert the component sync signals into a composite sync compatible with SCART. The red, green and blue signals can be connected through as-is.

Driving a TV directly has some advantages. The quality is superior to composite or S-video, and as the video card"s TV encoder is completely bypassed, custom resolutions and refresh rates can be programmed. On the down side, this method can require some experimentation to get right.

You get to fiddle with all the timings yourself by programming your VGA card (e.g. setting modelines in X), so you can set exactly how much overscan the picture has.

One-to-one relationship between the lines - if you run your graphics card in 800x600 and then use the TV output, the card needs to scale the picture down (576 lines for PAL). So either some of the lines get blurred together or some of the lines don"t get drawn at all. If you"re really unlucky then the graphics card won"t pay attention to interlacing and it"ll blend some of the odd lines into even lines. If you drive the graphics card at the native PAL specification and feed the signal straight into the TV then you can guarantee that each even line in the framebuffer will match up with exactly one line in the even field on the screen and every odd line will match exactly one line in the odd field.

A television with an RGB capable SCART socket. Just the presence of a SCART socket does not mean the television accepts RGB, as it will also accept a composite over SCART image. Check the manual, or try changing between Composite and RGB output on a SCART connected device to see if there is any change in image quality (the yellows will be noticeably more vibrant in RGB mode).

You need to be able to tell your graphics card to use your own resolutions and timings - if you"re running Windows you should try using Powerstrip. See below for suitable modelines.

Some TVs need pin 16 of the SCART connector driven high (powered with 1 to 3V) to enable the input. You can check this by blocking pin 16 (with some electrical tape) on a seperate RGB device; if the output changes to composite or no image with pin 16 blocked, your TV needs 16 driven high. You could pull power from the keyboard connector, connect up a 1.5V battery, etc. Bob van Loosen has provided a circuit which derives the required voltage from the vsync pin.

One of the main components is a VGA male connector. Unless you want to solder individual wires to an unwired connector, you can make life easy on yourself by using a normal VGA cable, cutting it in half or off the end of an old monitor. If the latter, take the monitor apart before hand as the wires should be exposed inside and you can just snip them off the solder points so you don"t have to worry about stripping them later. But presumably you have loads of those double male ended VGA cables lying around that came free with your LCD (and you used the DVI, didn"t you?).

Whichever you use, the first thing you need to do is figure out which wires correspond with which pin; not an easy task as there"s no standard colouring. If you cut one in half, start by just looking. You should see three larger cables with their own shields around the center, these may well be coloured red, green and blue, though you may find one or more coloured differently. Anyway, these are your RGB cables (pins 1, 2, 3 with grounds 6, 7, 8).

Now you need to find HSync, VSync and Sync Ground. If yours are anything like mine, you should have a bunch of four or five smaller cables to one side of the VGA cable, coloured something like brown, white, yellow, black, maybe red. You"ll have to check for continuity to make sure, but if it"s anything like mine then White will be HSync (pin 13), yellow (or a smaller white) VSync (pin 14), and black Sync Ground (pin 5/10).

But to make sure, you need to test them all for continuity. If you have a multimeter, great. If not, you can connect a couple wires to a battery then find an electrical device with a low amperage draw and try to power it through various pins on the VGA cable. I used a 40mm computer fan and 9V battery as I had a 9v connecter spare and the fan had nice small pointy wires to poke in to pins and other wires.

If you"re planning on making any of the below cables then you should farmiliarise yourself with both the Scart pinout and VGA pinout, along with a good understanding of configuring xorg.conf under Linux (or use of Powerstrip under Windows).

These fall into two groups. Some Radeon video cards are capable of generating composite sync directly and therefore need only a simple cable connecting the pins together. All other cards require a small circuit to convert the horizontal/vertical sync into composite sync. You can tell the circuits apart by the fact that the more complex version will have at least one transistor.

As the ATI Radeon cards should be able to output composite sync directly, the cable is very simple and requires no more than a single resistor between two pins along with the correct wiring pinout.

Note that the power from pin 9 to scart 8 is only needed for resolution mode switching (4:3 or 16:9) and probably isn"t needed for most standard def TVs, and the resistor between 9 and 16 supposedly drops the 5v voltage to between 1V and 3V which is needed to enable RGB Scart mode on some TVs. In other words, you may only need to connect pin 9 to pin 16, or not even that if your TV can be manually switched between RGB and Composite input on the scart socket or if you use an alternate method of providing 1V - 3V on pin 16 (a 1.5v battery works wonders but isn"t permanent...). If you are sure that your circuit is correct, but are still getting nothing but a blank screen, try providing the correct voltage to SCART pin 8, as some TVs require this.

As Nvidia cards have no option for outputting a composite sync, you need to create a small circuit that combines both the Horizontal and Vertical sync from the VGA port in to a Composite sync for the Scart. The schematic for this circuit is below:

This circuit does no frequency conversion or scaling, etc. so your graphics card must output a signal at PAL or NTSC specification if your TV is going to have any chance of syncing with it. If you see 2 images side by side then your graphics card is outputting a standard VGA signal and your TV just happens to be syncing with every other sync pulse (the horizontal sync in VGA runs at exactly twice the frequency of PAL).

‡ use radeon driver (not radeonhd or ati). As of Feb 2009 git master of the radeon driver is believed to support this mode of operation for all supported chips.

This is a working Interlaced PAL TV setup. The relevant sections of xorg.conf are below. Note the "composite" keyword which causes the Radeon to generate composite sync directly.

If you have managed to get a clear image on your TV, but are not able to get the full vertical resolution displayed, try reducing the vertical resolution without changing the total number of lines drawn (625 for PAL, 525 for NTSC). This could lead to a nonstandard resolution, but MythTV will use this without issue.

Set MythTV to use the "Interlaced x2" deinterlacer. That isn"t truly a deinterlacer, but it is necessary to ensure that the two fields of each frame get sent in the correct order. Without it, you will find playback alternates between two modes, one perfect, and the other with motion showing combs and wildly jumping backwards and forwards.

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A common question we were asked during our time at VGU was how our cables worked. The actual implementation is somewhat complicated, but the concept is quite simple and can easily be understood by all.

Several consoles released in the 80"s and 90"s had proprietary connectors for the audio/video outputs. If you were like me at the time, you got frustrated with these things. I know I was relieved when my launch Playstation 1 provided discrete A/V connections so I wouldn"t have to deal with Sony"s special connector. It turns out that these seemingly annoying A/V connectors contained more than just the standard composite video (yellow) and stereo audio (white/red) we were used to. In some cases, there were pins on those connectors which provided an s-video signal for improved picture quality on TVs with such a connection. And that"s it, right? Well, yes, it was for us living in North America. But out in Europe, all this was a sideshow to what was actually possible.

To understand the following, you need to be familiar with a very simple concept. A display, such as a TV, shows an image by combining light in red, green, and blue (RGB) components. A source, such as a camera, takes light in and splits it up into its RGB light components. A different type of source, such as a computer graphics system, generates RGB signals directly instead of capturing them. For optimal quality, you want this path from source to display to be as direct as possible. Any deviations from this path can result in artifacts and visible errors on the display. For example, to create composite video, the RGB needs to be heavily processed and combined into a single video signal. The processes involved in combining and then separating the video back into RGB causes a major deviation in the ideal path, hence the sub par quality achieved with using composite video. The following diagram attempts to visualize this detour that composite video takes in relation to a direct RGB connection.

Back to the consoles. Almost all of those funky A/V connectors had pins containing the raw RGB video generated by the graphics system of the console. And in Europe, TVs have special inputs that can accept and display those signals. They did this through a special connector on the television called SCART. The connector was very large with many pins and incorporated several features to simplify A/V equipment connections. Think of it as the analog precursor to the digital HDMI connection we are all familiar with these days. With a special cable that connects the console RGB pins to the SCART connector, you can achieve an almost perfect source-to-display connection.

For us in North America (and several other parts of the world), we never had TVs that could accept these raw RGB signals. But what about those red, green, and blue colored RCA jacks commonly found on our TVs? Although physically colored that way, those are not RGB inputs, but they are very close. YPbPr (or "component") video is only a simple, reversible transformation away from RGB. So the idea is to perform the transformation for the purpose of using a compatible input on the TV. Then, the TV will undo the transformation to recover the RGB and display it. Below is one page of my engineering notebook which begins to explain the theory behind our product. The diagram on top of the page illustrates the concept I"ve just explained.

Some people say that you"re just as good in getting an RGB SCART to YPbPr conversion box. Disregarding the hassle and cost involved in dealing with conversion boxes, I still don"t believe this is true. We"ve spent lots of time here at HQ researching the RGB video signals coming out of both the SNES and Genesis consoles. By using custom test software, the signals were accurately measured and we"ve determined that these consoles are not properly designed to follow any particular standard. These video signals can be too dark, too bright, have slanted lines (field tilt), and contain unwanted noise. These problems are compensated for within our cables. Think of our cables not only as simple plug-and-play conversion devices, but also as "signal conditioners" to achieve the best possible output from your consoles.

Like always, if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us via thecontact page. Also let us know if you like these more technical blog posts and if we should do more of them.

The configuration chip (eeprom) allows your Recalbox to detect if a Recalbox RGB Dual is connected and to automatically configure the system. This is 100% Plug and Play.

Both audio channels are filtered to smooth the sound signal, and ensure the best possible sound quality. Connoisseurs will recognise the filters of a class D amp.

The database embedded in Recalbox 8.0 contains all the information so that for each game launched, you can automatically enjoy its original display mode.

A number of people have used a Motorola Atrix Lapdock to add a screen and keyboard with trackpad to RasPi, in essence building a RasPi-based laptop computer. Lapdock is a very clever idea: you plug your Atrix smart phone into Lapdock and it gives you an 11.6" 1366 x 768 HDMI monitor with speakers, a keyboard with trackpad, two USB ports, and a large enough battery for roughly 5 hours of use. The smart phone acts as a motherboard with "good enough" performance. The advantage over a separate laptop or desktop computer is that you have one computing device so you don"t need to transfer files between your phone and your desk/laptop.

Unfortunately for Motorola, Lapdock was not successful (probably because of its US$500 list price) and Motorola discontinued it and sold remaining stock at deep discounts, with many units selling for US$50-100. This makes it a very attractive way to add a modest size HDMI screen to RasPi, with a keyboard/trackpad and rechargeable battery power thrown in for free.

Lapdock has two connectors that plug into an Atrix phone: a Micro HDMI D plug for carrying video and sound, and a Micro USB plug for charging the phone and connecting to the Lapdock"s internal USB hub, which talks to the Lapdock keyboard, trackpad, and two USB ports. With suitable cables and adapters, these two plugs can be connected to RasPi"s full-size HDMI connector and one of RasPi"s full-size USB A ports.

Motorola also made a Lapdock for the Motorola Droid Bionic smartphone. According to Jim Manley, the Droid Bionic Lapdock is identical to the Atrix Lapdock, except that the two Micro plugs are each rotated 180 degrees.

The RasPi forum has a long thread on Lapdock with many useful suggestions, photos, and links: I made a Raspberry PI Laptop. There"s also a good "blog entry at element14 with photos and suggestions of where to get cables and adapters: Raspberry Pi Laptop. TechRepublic has a tear-down article with photos of Lapdock internal components here: Cracking Open the Motorola Droid Bionic Lapdock. Paul Mano has a wealth of photos of Lapdock innards at Motorola Atrix Lapdock mod projects.

The hardest part about connecting Lapdock is getting the cables and adapters. Most HDMI and USB cables are designed to plug into jacks, whereas the Lapdock has plugs so the cables/adapters must have Micro HDMI and Micro USB female connections. These are unusual cables and adapters, so check the links.

Lapdock uses the HDMI plug to tell if a phone is plugged in by seeing if the HDMI DDC/CEC ground pin is pulled low. If it"s not, Lapdock is powered off. As soon as you plug in a phone or RasPi, all the grounds short together and Lapdock powers itself on. However, it only does this if the HDMI cable actually connects the DDC/CEC ground line. Many cheap HDMI cables do not include the individual ground lines, and rely on a foil shield connected to the outer shells on both ends. Such a cable will not work with an unmodified Lapdock. There is a detailed "blog entry on the subject at element14: Raspberry Pi Lapdock HDMI cable work-around. The "blog describes a side-benefit of this feature: you can add a small power switch to Lapdock so you can leave RasPi attached all the time without draining the battery.

The Lapdock Micro USB plug is the upstream port of Lapdock"s internal USB hub, and connects to one of RasPi"s full-size USB ports. Lapdock is not USB compliant since it provides upstream power on its Vbus pin. Lapdock uses this to charge the Atrix phone. You can use this feature to power RasPi if you have a newer RasPi. The original RasPi rev 1 has 140 mA polyfuses F1 and F2 to protect the USB ports, which are too small for powering RasPi using upstream power. Newer RasPis replace F1 and F2 with zero Ohm jumpers or eliminate them entirely, which allows Lapdock to provide power. If you don"t mind modifying your original RasPi, you can add shorting jumpers over F1 and F2 or replace them with higher-current fuses.

What gets powered on depends on whether Lapdock is open or closed. If it"s open, the screen and all Lapdock USB ports are powered. If you close Lapdock, the screen and full-size USB ports are powered down, but the Micro USB still provides upstream power. This is for charging an Atrix phone. When you open or close Lapdock, the Micro USB power switches off for about a second so if your RasPi is connected it will reboot and you may have a corrupted file system. There"s discussion about this at the RasPi forum link, and someone has used a supercapacitor to work around the problem: Raspberry Pi lapdock tricks.

When you do not connect a HDMI monitor, the GPU in the PI will simply rescale (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_scaling) anything that would have appeared on the HDMI screen to a resolution suitable for the TV standard chosen, (PAL or NTSC) and outputs it as a composite video signal.

The Broadcom BCM2835 only provides HDMI output and composite output. RGB and other signals needed by RGB, S-VIDEO or VGA connectors are however not provided, and the R-PI also isn"t designed to power an unpowered converter box.

Note that any conversion hardware that converts HDMI/DVI-D signals to VGA (or DVI-A) signals may come with either an external PSU, or expects power can be drawn from the HDMI port. In the latter case the device may initially appear to work, but there will be a problem, as the HDMI specs only provide in a maximum of 50mA (@ 5 Volt) from the HDMI port, but all of these adapters try to draw much more, up-to 500mA, in case of the R-PI there is a limit of 200mA that can be drawn safely, as 200mA is the limit for the BAT54 diode (D1) on the board. Any HDMI to VGA adapter without external PSU might work for a time, but then burn out D1, therefore Do not use HDMI converters powered by the HDMI port!

The solution is to either only use externally powered converters, or to replace D1 with a sturdier version, such as the PMEG2010AET, and to replace the power input fuse F3 with a higher rated one, as the current one is only 700mA, and the adapter may use 400mA itself. Also notice that the R-PI"s power supply also must be able to deliver the extra current.

Alternatively, it may be possible to design an expansion board that plugs into the LCD headers on the R.Pi. Here is something similar for Beagleboard:

The SOC (system on a chip) does not support any kind of analog component video, including VGA, since the SOC is designed for mobile phone use where this would not be a requirement. Additional components would be needed to generate RGB signals. Additional components would push the price beyond the $25 target and therefore won"t happen.

An additional binary blob might be required for the DSI port to function correctly (or function at all). When or if such a blob will be made available is unknown. Update 04 Jun 2013: "DSI will get done though - there are 1.5M boards out there with the connector on - that would, as you say, have been a waste of money ($120k??) if it never gets used." [1]

The schematics for apples iPhone 3gs and 4g suggest they speak DSI, thus they can probably be connected directly. The older iPhones use a "Mobile Pixel Link" connection from National Semiconductor. The 3GS panel (480×320) goes as low as US $14.88, while the 4G one (960×640, possibly the LG LH350WS1-SD01, with specifications) can be had for US $17.99 or as low as US $14.28. The connectors used might be an issue, but this connector might fit. Additional circuitry might be necessary to provide the display with required 1.8V and 5.7V for operation, and an even higher voltage for the backlight.

The Raspberry Pi provides one clock lane and two data lanes on the S2 connector, as can be read from the schematics. It is currently unknown whether this is enough to drive the iPhone 4G screen, as that screen seems be driven with three data lanes in its original application.

I2C/SPI ADC can be used to interface 4 pin resistive Touch Screens, For example STMPE812A. Texas Instruments has a solution for 4 or 8 wire touchscreens using their rather cheap MSP4309.

These have controllers and interfaces for feeding in text (and symbols). Common screen sizes include 16x2 to 40x4. They"re often seen in keypads, industrial machines, cash registers, laser printers etc.

Parallel interface displays can be found in many sizes, usually up to 7" and more. Parallel interfaces are usually 8 or 16-bits wide (sometimes 18 or 24-bit wide), plus some control-lines. The Raspberry Pi P1-connector does not contain enough GPIOs for 16-bit wide parallel displays, but this could be solved by borrowing some GPIOs from the CSI-connector or from P5 (on newer Raspberry Pis). Alternatively, some additional electronics (e.g. shift-registers or a CPLD) can be used, which could also improve the framerate or lower the CPU-load.

AdvaBoard RPi1: Raspberry Pi multifunction extension board, incl. an interface and software for 3.2"/5"/7" 16-bit parallel TFT-displays incl. touchscreen with up to 50 frames/s (3.2", 320x240)

Texy"s 2.8" TFT + Touch Shield Board: HY28A-LCDB display with 320 x 240 resolution @ 10 ~ 20fps, 65536 colors, assembled and tested £24 plus postage, mounts on GPIO pins nicely matching Pi board size, or via ribbon cable

The Open Source Scan Converter is a low-latency video digitizer and scan converter designed primarily for connecting retro video game consoles and home computers to modern displays. It converts analog RGB or component video signals into a digital format, and doubles (or triples) the scanlines of a single frame if necessary to generate a valid mode for digital TVs or monitors.

The board and firmware originated as a homebrew project in 2015. The primary goal of the OSSC project was to create a scan converter with minimal latency and reasonable cost, which could also be assembled by hand. Output image quality and features have also been important targets as long as they didn"t contradict with the project"s primary goals.

Due to interest in the retro gaming community, both DIY kits and pre-assembled boards were first released to the public during early 2016. The firmware of the system is open source (hence the name) and new features can be added as time goes on.

DIY kits contain a selection of special parts required for building an OSSC board. Common components such as SMD resistors/capacitors need to be ordered separately from electronics wholesalers (e.g. Mouser). Kits are available to buy worldwide from VideoGamePerfection.com

As the project is open, board and selected parts can be customized by resellers. All listed sellers are encouraged to provide their list of components to improve transparency. Links to reference BOM are provided for comparison below so that buyers can check beforehand how much there are deviations which could affect performance or compatibility.

If desired, a USB to Barrel Jack adapter can be used. This will function correctly as long as the USB port or charger used in conjunction with OSSC outputs at least 1 amp of current. Such adapters can often be found on Amazon or other popular retailers.

Using a supply that provides less than one amp of current may cause the OSSC to reset, especially when outputting at higher resolutions. You can however, safely use a PSU rated at least one amp or higher.

This input supports video in RGBS, RGsB (sync on green) and YPbPr formats. Composite video, luma or composite sync can be used as a sync source in RGBS mode. External sync splitters or boosters are generally not required or recommended as there is a built-in sync filter & separator in the ADC frontend. The sync input has 75 ohm termination, so a TTL-level sync signal should not be directly connected to the OSSC in order to avoid unnecessarily stressing the source console and/or OSSC. A 470 ohm series resistor on the console side of the cable is generally a good solution when using cables which are wired for the TTL-level sync output of a console. The video inputs also have standard 75 ohm termination, so arcade boards may need extra resistors on the cable when connected directly without using a Supergun.

The AV3 input is a VGA/HD-15 connector which supports video in RGBHV, RGBS (pin 13), RGsB and YPbPr formats. RGBHV and RGBS modes require clean TTL-level sync signals and cannot extract sync from composite video or luma. AV3 is best suited for high-quality input sources as video LPF functionality is limited (the AV1 and AV2 inputs are routed through a dedicated LPF chip). Therefore, it is generally recommended to connect older consoles and arcade boards to these other inputs.

DIY and newer pre-assembled boards contain a HDMI connector which is used to transmit video data in 24bit RGB format. Digital audio output is available on v1.6->, while it can be added via an add-on board for earlier boards (see below) . Currents up to 200mA can be safely supplied via DDC 5V power pin to external devices such as active cables.

First revisions of pre-assembled boards came with DVI-D connector due to connector robustness and HDMI licencing worries. Functionality is otherwise similar, and it is possible to use a DVI-to-HDMI cable or adapter to connect to a HDMI display. Analog output pins of DVI are not used, so it is not possible to connect to a VGA monitor via a passive DVI-to-VGA cable or adapter (an active adapter is required instead, see below).

Analog audio from SCART input is bypassed to a 3.5mm stereo output jack next to video output connector. On v1.6-> boards the jack alternatively functions as AV2 audio input, selectable via a miniature switch.

Borti4938 has created an add-on board that implements audio digitization and integration into HDMI output, which neither are natively supported by earlier OSSC boards. Both SCART input and 3.5mm connector (normally output) can be used as audio input, but it is highly recommended to have only either one of those connected at time since they are wired together internally.

The OSSC does not come with an analogue video output, however this can be added easily by using a simple DVI or HDMI to VGA adapter. See analogue video output options for OSSC for more information.

INFO: Displays extra information on video source processing. Top row shows current profile and current video mode preset. Bottom row shows accurate timing data from FPGA: lines per frame, p/i status, special processing (indicated by *) and cycles per frame (divide 27000000 by it to get Hz),

Coarse-adjustment of Red/Pr / G/Y / B/Pb channel gain (contrast). Need to decreased with certain sources with higher than nominal video levels (e.g. 1-CHIP SNES consoles) to avoid clipping

DTV 480p: Input is sampled at 858 samples per line, typically associated with 720x480 mode (CEA-861 spec.) used by DTV/DVD equipment and newer game consoles. This option forces the sampling mode for all inputs, which may be required for optimal image quality when e.g. Dreamcast with a VGA module is connected to RGBHV input.

On: 2x samplerate is used to double output horizontal resolution, which may be useful with sources that use off-spec horizontal rate. Alternatively, the option can be used to generate slightly more analog-esque (i.e. less pixellated) picture.

Off: Pixel repetition is used to double output horizontal resolution, which regenerates source image most faithfully if sampling matches dot clock. [default]

Allows fine-tuning of sampling/output parameters. Results greatly depend on displays - generally only position (backporch) adjustments are highly compatible. Efficient use requires knowledge of input and output hardware connected to OSSC. Video mode to edit (default is current mode) is selected via LEFT/RIGHT keys, after which tweaker is accessed via OK key. For more information, see the link below.

Fine-tune fractional H.samplerate adjustment for optimized modes. Value set is a target - closest effective value is automatically selected since actual samplerate resolution (between 1/6 and 1) depends on line multiplication mode.

0-347 deg: Selects the phase of regenerated pixel clock (=position where each sample is taken). When output rate matches the input DAC rate (PC graphics modes, newer consoles, 2 last linetriple modes), it is important to adjust sampling phase for optimal quality. This setting should be adjusted only after adjusting sync and video LPF since they can alter the relative position of video and sync signals. Can be also adjusted with remote hotkeys while tweaking other sampling settings [default=180deg]

Low-pass filter selection for analog sync signals (SCART and component inputs plus VGA input in RGsB mode). Required if there is noise or glitches on the sync line.

Low-pass filter selection for analog sync tip clamp (SCART and component inputs plus VGA input in RGsB mode). Stronger LPF improves robustness if significant undershoot is present on sync, but may lead to mode detection issues with HDTV signals.

Sets tolerance for hsync period variation outside of vsync. Needs to be increased from default to allow detection of some consoles like certain Neo Geo models. H-PLL coast also needs to be increased to enable stable output with these problematic sources.

Sets delay threshold for extracting vsync from csync. The value should be higher than hsync length but lower that actual vsync length. Useful setting for Taito F2/F3 arcade boards

Controls line multiplication setting for 240p/288p modes. NOTE: 3x/4x/5x do not generate standard 720p/960p/1080p/1200p CEA/VESA modes (total lines, pixels per line), so they are generally accepted only by monitors and not by many consumer TVs.

Passthru: Only digitization is applied, deinterlacing will be handled by display. Generally results to higher quality picture at the price of added latency.

Beware of using the OSSCs Line2x (bob) or Line4x (bob) deinterlacing modes on sources that display static graphics or text for a long period of time. The OSSCs deinterlacer produces a constant flickering effect. This can cause image retention/burn in to occur faster than normal.

Passthru: Only digitization is applied, deinterlacing will be handled by display. Generally results to higher quality picture at the price of added latency.

Beware of using the OSSCs Line2x (bob) deinterlacing mode on sources that display static graphics or text for a long period of time. The OSSCs deinterlacer produces a constant flickering effect. This can cause image retention/burn in to occur faster than normal.

512x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 682 dots per line used by some classic consoles (e.g. SNES hi-res) in 512 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied by 2 in horizontal direction, resulting to 1024x480 effective area of 1024x480 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.

384x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 512 dots per line used by some systems (e.g. CPS2) in 384x240 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization.

320x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 426 dots per line used by some classic consoles (e.g. several PSX games) in 320x240 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied by 2 in horizontal direction, resulting to 640x480 effective area of 640x480 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.

256x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 341 dots per line used by various classic consoles (e.g. NES, SNES) in 256x240 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied in horizontal direction, resulting to 768x480 or 512x480 (depending on 256x240 aspect setting) effective area of 768x480 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.

Generic 16:9: Uses full horizontal sample rate without pixel multiplication, resulting to fully utilized 1280x720/864 output (16:9 aspect). Useful if connected to a CRT via DVI->VGA converter.

Generic 4:3: Uses 3/4 of full horizontal sample rate without pixel multiplication, resulting to 960x720/864 effective area of 1280x720/864 output (4:3 aspect). [default]

512x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 682 dots per line used by some classic consoles (e.g. SNES hi-res) in 512 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied by 2 in horizontal direction, resulting to 1024x720 effective area of 1024x720 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.

384x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 512 dots per line used by some systems (e.g. CPS2) in 384x240 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization.

320x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 426 dots per line used by some classic consoles (e.g. several PSX games) in 320x240 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied by 3 in horizontal direction, resulting to 960x720 effective area of 1280x720 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.

256x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 341 dots per line used by various classic consoles (e.g. NES, SNES) in 256x240 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied in horizontal direction, resulting to 1024x720 or 768x720 (depending on 256x240 aspect setting) effective area of 1280x720 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.

512x240 optim.: For advanced users only - requires clock and phase adjustments. Uses a sampling rate which matches the DAC rate of 682 dots per line used by some classic consoles (e.g. SNES hi-res) in 512 mode, resulting to pixel-perfect digitization. Output is pixel-multiplied by 2 in horizontal direction, resulting to 1024x960 effective area of 1024x960 output. Note: If picture jitters when this mode is selected, adjust sampling phase until sweet spot is achieved.