lcd screen not displaying in stock

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

If the CRT is the problem, it is often not worth repairing. If the CRT is out of warranty, parts and labor may cost more than buying a new CRT, which also gives you better specs and a warranty. About the only CRTs we"d even consider repairing out-of-warranty are high-end 21" or larger models, and even there the economics are dubious.

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

This is a hardware problem with one of the electron guns. Replace the CRT. This problem may also manifest as a strong color cast during normal operation that is not correctable using the normal color balance controls.

This is usually a minor hardware problem. The most likely cause is that the signal cable is not connected tightly to the CRT and/or video card, causing some pins to make contact intermittently or not at all. Verify that no pins are loose, bent, or missing on the cable or the connectors on the CRT and video card, and then tighten the cable at both ends, If that doesn"t fix the problem, open the computer, remove the video card, and reseat it fully.

In elderly systems, another possible cause is that some hardware DVD decoder cards "steal" one color (usually magenta) and use it to map the DVD video signal onto the standard video signal. Remove the DVD decoder card. If your video adapter includes hardware DVD support, or if you are upgrading to such an adapter, you don"t need a DVD decoder card.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Use the brightness control to increase image brightness. If you have set brightness to maximum and the image is still too dim, contact the display manufacturer. The CCRTs used to backlight the screen have a finite lifetime and may begin to dim as they near the end of their life.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

After a long, hard day, you finally sit down to catch up on your favorite show. But when you hit the power button on your remote control, your TV screen stays black! You try pressing the remote’s power button again and again from every angle, but still, your TV has no picture. If this sounds familiar, you’ve likely fallen victim to one or more TV screen issues.

What causes a TV screen to go black? Software issues, loose connections, or backlight problems are usually behind black TV screens. Learn about each of these causes and get tips for troubleshooting them so you can get back to relaxing with your favorite TV shows, movies, and video games.

If your TV screen is black and there’s no sound, you’ll want to check for an LED light or a small indicator light that tells you the TV has power. If there is no power to the TV while it is plugged in, there may be an issue with the outlet or fuse box in your home. However, if the TV is on but the screen is black, the problem could lie with your TV’s software.

Unplug the TV from the wall, and, if possible, remove the power cord from the back of the TV to perform a soft reset. Wait 30 seconds, and plug the TV back into a working outlet to test it again. If you’re still having screen issues, you might want to bring in an expert — they’ll know how to fix your TV’s black screen.

If your TV screen goes black but the sound still works, the first thing to check is the input source to ensure it is turned on and operating correctly. This includes external devices like cable boxes, video game consoles, laptops, and streaming devices. Once you’re sure the input source is working properly and you have the right input settings, check the cable connections. In many instances where the TV screen is black but the audio works, poor cable connections could be the issue.

Whether you’re working with an HDMI cable, RCA (usually yellow, white, and red cables) set up, or another type of connection, you need to ensure the cables are seated properly and firmly into their connection ports. With a good connection, the cable shouldn’t feel loose or easily disconnect when pulled on or moved around. If all your cables have a snug fit but the problem persists, try connecting the device to another TV. If your TV screen is still blacked out, you may need new cables.

Some TV displays, such as LCD screens, use a backlight to illuminate the picture. If the backlight burns out or stops working, it will result in a blank TV screen.

To check your TV’s backlight, make sure your TV is on. Then, turn off the lights in the room and shine a flashlight on the screen. If you can see a picture with the flashlight, then your TV’s backlight is likely burnt out.

While you might be eager to learn how to fix a black-screen TV, a broken backlight does not come with an easy solution. The backlight will need to be replaced, and it’s best to get help from a professional with this task.

If repair costs are outside your budget or not worth it considering the age and condition of your TV, you may want to consider upgrading to a new smart TV. When you purchase a new TV from your local Rent-A-Center, you’ll enjoy free product service and repairs for the life of your agreement as part of our Worry-Free Guarantee.

You’ve run all the tests, checked all the ports, and ensured your TV has power, but your TV screen is still black! There could be a more complicated (and expensive) issue, so it might be time to ditch your old TV for an upgrade.

Troubleshoot a video connection from a monitor (or a TV being used as a monitor) to a desktop computer. If your computer has a built-in display, see Screen is Blank after Starting the Computer.

This document will help you determine if the blank screen is being caused by the computer hardware, the video signal to the monitor, or the monitor itself.

Make sure the monitor has power and the power light comes on when the power button is pressed. If the light on the monitor remains off, the monitor is not receiving power from either the wall outlet or the power adapter.

If you have a flat panel LCD monitor, unplug the monitor power cable, wait about 30 seconds, reconnect the cable and then turn on the monitor. This resets the electronics on the monitor.

If power light remains off when you press the power button, either the monitor is not receiving power or the monitor is defective. Check all the following items before attempting to service or replace the monitor:

If you do not hear noise from the fans and the power lights on the computer are not on, the problem is related to the computer, not the monitor. To troubleshoot a computer that does not start, see Computer Does Not Start.

At first setup, or under certain signal conditions, the monitor might not be able to switch to a new display resolution. Do not shut down or restart the computer. Instead, reset your monitor. If you need instructions for resetting your monitor, search the HP support website. Go to HP Customer Support, and follow the instructions to find your product.

Some monitors do not have on-screen messages but instead use the lights to indicate no signal. When you disconnect the cable, instead of an on-screen message, the light turns amber, indicating that the monitor lost signal and is working properly, but is out of range, or not receiving the signal.

Connect the computer to another monitor to determine which device has the problem (the monitor or the computer). If you do not have an extra monitor, temporarily connect the computer to another monitor for troubleshooting purposes.

If the newly attached monitor does not display anything, disconnect the cable and continue to the step to Inspect the video cable and video connectors for damage.

If the new monitor works, the original monitor or its cables are faulty. Try connecting the monitor with a different video cable. If the monitor still does not work, replace the monitor power cable. Replace or service the monitor if it still does not turn on.

Do not remove the video port cover. If your computer came with a graphics card, HP may have installed a plastic cover over the video port attached to the motherboard. Most PCs can use graphics from the graphics card or the motherboard, but not both at the same time. If you remove the plastic cover to connect a monitor (VGA or HDMI), the video will not work unless the graphics card is removed. The better solution is to connect an adapter to make the connection.

Gently press down on the outside edges of cards and memory modules that are inserted into the motherboard to better seat them. Do not apply too much pressure.

If the monitor still displays a black screen or displays a No signal message, the video hardware may be faulty and needs to be replaced or serviced. If the monitor displays the first startup screen but then goes blank, continue to the next step.

Use this step to configure Windows to use a display resolution that is compatible with the main monitor device. In order to perform these steps, you must connect the computer to another working monitor. If you cannot view the first startup screens, skip to Replace the graphics card or have the hardware serviced.

Use the following steps to change to a compatible display resolution and color depth setting from a standard graphics mode. For flat panel LCD monitors, set the display resolution to the monitor"s native display resolution.

If Windows was recently upgraded, Windows might be starting up into a Power Saving state and producing the blank screen before it loads. After Windows loads (about 2 minutes after turning on the computer), press the power button briefly or press the Suspend key on the keyboard to see if the computer comes out of a suspended state. If the computer opens into a suspended state every time the computer is started, use the following steps to disable Power Saving in the BIOS.

To provide you more detailed instruction, you can also click ASUS Youtube video link below to know more about Troubleshooting for No display on LCD Monitor

Check if the signal cable (VGA / DVI / HDMI / DisplayPort) is wellconnected , and confirmed another end of the output cable has been firmly connected to computer input port (graphics card). Unplug and plug 2-terminals again to ensure all pins aren"t bent.

Check if the signal cable (VGA / DVI / HDMI / DisplayPort) is wellconnected and confirmed another end of the output cable has been firmly connected to computer input port (graphics card). Unplug and plug 2-terminals again to ensure all the pins aren"t bent.

If the model had attached with the power supply (AC-adapter), make sure the power supply has connected to the screen. Please check if the light of power supply is ON. If the light is NOT ON, change another power supply to test.

Are there any regional differences inpower specifications thatASUS LCD monitor supported (for example: If monitor was bought in Taiwan, can it be used in China or other countries?)

ASUS LCD monitor can support power specification: AC 100-240V. As long as within this voltage range, the display can work properly. However, please be noted that if you bought a monitor from another region, the power cord is not necessarily compatible to power outlet. Customer should replace the appropriate power cord or plug adapter in order to ensure normal power supply of the display.

If the display is still blank, try to tilt or move up or down the LCD display and also try a different known working electrical outlet at your location.

The LCD screen is vital for operating the printer. Should you encounter any kind of trouble, such as a dead screen, corrupted text, or other issues, please refer to the guide below.

First of all, unscrew the LCD screen from the printer frame, remove both M3x10 screw holding it the LCD board in the plastic casing, and remove it from the casing. See if the problem still appears when the LCD is not pressed by the casing.

Firmware updates are necessary to keep your printer up to date. However, the installation of incorrect firmware can lead to letter corruption on the LCD screen. There"s an easy fix, though:

There is a small chance the printer"s LCD screen can glitch out by electrostatic discharge when inserting the SD card. Try to turn the printer off and on again.

This problem usually appears only on user-assembled printers. If your printer"s LCD screen remains blank or displays corrupted symbols after you turn on the printer, there is a chance it is caused by incorrect wiring. Follow these steps to fix the issue.

Double-check that all cables are properly seated and they are not visibly damaged. Depending on the model of your printer, please refer to the following guides for information on how to make sure the cables are properly connected: Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) and Mini RAMBo electronics wiring (MK2S, MK2.5, MK2.5S).

If you suspect that the LCD ribbon cables connectors are not firmly seated in the slots, disconnect the LCD ribbon cables and check the slots for any bent pins. If there are bent pins, you can use tweezers to fix them. However, be very careful not to break the pin(s) completely.

Ok, I just had this problem, tried tried to flash the firmware, specifically the firmware_bltouch.bin. turned the printer off, inserted SD card, firmware.bin renamed to firmware.cur (finally pulled the card out after waiting 10 minutes). Blue screen, completely blank.

copied the firmware.bin that came on the SD card. Inserted, nothing. Didn"t rename the file. when I looked closer, I noticed that my file was named, FIRMWARE.bin. All caps name, lowercase extension. Made extension all caps, inserted. Flashed back to original firmware that came with the board.

Then I noticed that the firmware.bin and firmware_bltouch.bin that I downloaded from github, via right-click, save as was only 82KB. While the firmware that came with the board was 209KB. This didn"t seem right, so I went back to github and instead of downloading via right click, I clicked on the firmware_blthouch.bin. This loaded a page that said the file ws 226KB, with a download button. Clicked download. Verified that the file was indeed 226KB when downloaded. Renamed it to FIRMWARE.BIN, inserted into SD Slot, turned on printer. 15 seconds later, the screen loads and says I"m on the newer version of Marlin (2.0.6, I think).

So, I am a bit of a dumbass, but in case it might help others, make sure your downloaded file is 200+KB in size, and not 82KB. And renaming to all caps fixed my restore, so I didn"t even try the new firmware.bin file lowercase, I just made it all uppercase.

Many Apple products use liquid crystal displays (LCD). LCD technology uses rows and columns of addressable points (pixels) that render text and images on the screen. Each pixel has three separate subpixels—red, green and blue—that allow an image to render in full color. Each subpixel has a corresponding transistor responsible for turning that subpixel on and off.

Depending on the display size, there can be thousands or millions of subpixels on the LCD panel. For example, the LCD panel used in the iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2019) has a display resolution of 5120 x 2880, which means there are over 14.7 million pixels. Each pixel is made up of a red, a green, and a blue subpixel, resulting in over 44 million individual picture elements on the 27-inch display. Occasionally, a transistor may not work perfectly, which results in the affected subpixel remaining off (dark) or on (bright). With the millions of subpixels on a display, it is possible to have a low number of such transistors on an LCD. In some cases a small piece of dust or other foreign material may appear to be a pixel anomaly. Apple strives to use the highest quality LCD panels in its products, however pixel anomalies can occur in a small percentage of panels.

In many cases pixel anomalies are caused by a piece of foreign material that is trapped somewhere in the display or on the front surface of the glass panel. Foreign material is typically irregular in shape and is usually most noticeable when viewed against a white background. Foreign material that is on the front surface of the glass panel can be easily removed using a lint free cloth. Foreign material that is trapped within the screen must be removed by an Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Retail Store.

Troubleshooting.To troubleshoot an issue with an external display, see If your external display isn’t detected or appears blurry on your Mac. If you’re not sure how many external displays your MacBook Air supports, check your Technical Specifications. Open System Settings, then choose Help > MacBook Specifications, then locate Video Support (you may need to scroll).

Use an Apple TV with AirPlay.If you have an HDTV connected to an Apple TV, you can use AirPlay to mirror your MacBook Air screen on your TV screen in up to 1080p HD. See Use AirPlay on your Mac for details.

Adjust and arrange displays.After you connect an external display or projector, go to Displays in System Settings to set how the displays are arranged, choose which to use as your main display, and adjust resolution. If you want to mirror your screen, click the display that you want to act as a mirror, then choose the mirror option from the “Use as” dropdown.

Defective pixels do not necessarily impair the performance of the monitor. However,they can be distracting, especially if the pixels are in positions where viewing quality is reduced.