lcd panel banding pricelist

Today, flat screen TVs range from LED and LCD televisions that have been around for a few decades to upgraded models known as OLED and 4K TVs, which boast better picture quality. Plasma screen TVs were once a popular type of flat screen TV. However, they have fallen out of popularity. Most TVs sold today are also smart TVs, which means they can connect to the internet. Older flat screen models that need repair are sometimes not smart. The table below describes these common television types and how much each usually costs to repair.

Repairs for LCD TVs cost between $60 and $475. LCD televisions are one of the most popular options on the market, available in a wide range of sizes and styles. They use an LCD (liquid crystal display) with backlights to produce images. The backlights, screen, and other components may get damaged over time and need repairing. The most common problems for LCD TVs are bad power supplies and dead capacitors that may need repair or replacement.

LED TV repairs range from $60 to $475, depending on the scale of the problem. LED televisions are a specific type of LCD TV that use LED backlights to illuminate the liquid crystal display. These TVs usually produce more colorful and vibrant images and are more energy-efficient, but the LED backlights may need to be repaired or replaced over time. Another common problem is a broken inverter that requires repair or replacement.

Repairing horizontal lines on your TV costs between $150 and $475. It might be an issue with the motherboard, or it could be a problem with loose cables between the panel and the control board. Sometimes, the fix is as easy as resetting the television to factory defaults or updating the firmware. However, the problem may exist inside the TV, and to fix this issue, the repair person needs to open the television to diagnose the problem.

TV panel repairs average $200 to $2,000 because different types of televisions have materials that vary significantly in cost. An older LED TV might cost between $200 and $400 to fix, but a 4K TV may cost several thousand to repair. Additionally, some panels cannot be repaired. For this reason, many companies do not offer panel repair. So if your television gets a crack in the panel, you may be better off buying a new unit instead.

In some cases, your TV components may not be able to be repaired, or it might be more cost-effective to replace them with new ones. The repair price includes the cost of new parts, plus the labor required to fit them into place and remove the broken components. While some components can be replaced, they may be extremely expensive or cost-prohibitive to do so. This is mainly in the case of panels and screens because they often contain too many parts to replace on their own. The table below shows average costs for a variety of common replacements:

Fuse replacement in a TV costs between $60 and $150 and is one of the easier replacement jobs for a repairman. Glass and ceramic fuses on your TV’s power supply board may blow in certain situations and need replacing. To replace a fuse, the repairman opens the TV to access the power panel and swaps out the fuse. Bear in mind that the TV may have a more serious electrical problem if the fuse blows more than once.

TV bulb replacement costs average $100 to $200. Bulbs are usually found only in older models of LCD TVs or projection TVs. They are used to illuminate the display so that the picture can be seen. Bulbs are relatively easy to replace, but the material costs are a little higher with bulbs when compared to other components, leading to varied replacement prices from model to model. Replacing a bulb can fix a flickering television or a dark screen problem.

TV screen replacement costs at least $400 to $4,200 and may even cost more. The screen is the most expensive part of a TV. So usually, the cost of replacing it is higher than just buying a new unit because of the labor involved. In some cases, this is because the screen cannot be replaced without also replacing most of the other components, particularly for TVs like LED, LCD, or plasma. Most professional repair companies do not offer screen or panel replacement as a service. The only way to get a new screen is to have it fixed under warranty by the manufacturer.

TV panel replacement costs a minimum of $400 to $5,000 and often a lot more on some of the high-end 4K and Smart screen displays. Because the cost of a replacement panel is so high, it is usually more cost-effective to simply purchase a new television. Like the screen, this is due to the number of components involved. Therefore, most repair places will not offer panel replacement as a service.

Some of the most common issues with this brand are banding at a repair cost of $100 to $200 or sound with a cost of $150 to $400. Color problems may be related to adjustment and can be fixed for a low cost of $75 to $100, HDMI connections are often fixed at the cost of $200 to $300, and streaming problems may be corrected with a software update. Software updates can be done by the owner, but a repairman will most likely charge a minimum fee of $75 to $100. Banding presents as sections of bands where it should be smooth. Sound and color can go out over time in the LG brand. HDMI and streaming can become difficult as technology emerges and changes.

Often, you must decide whether it is worth repairing your TV. In some situations, the cost of repairs is higher than the price of a new TV. For example, when screens are cracked or damaged, the cost of replacing a panel is usually much higher than simply buying a new TV. For major repairs, it is often cheaper to buy a new TV. However, for minor repairs, it is less expensive to call a repair person and get the TV fixed.

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That aside the uneveness of a brand new OLED panel at 5-10% brightness was just not useable so the unit has gone back this morning and refund is being issued. I did ask Dell if they would consider replacing with an UHD LCD XPS 15 but they declined, it also seemed to be back up at pre sale prices on their website. So I have secured a Dell XPS 15 UHD LCD from a large format store and it arrived today.

I have run the laptop through the 0-100% brightness range (pretty much a series of jpegs created in photoshop ranging from 0 RBG to 100 RBG and the LCD panel is even in all of them, infinitely more consistent than the OLED.

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If you are planning to spend in the range of $1,000 to, say $5,000 for a home theater projector, you have a basic choice to make: an LCD projector or a DLP projector. Each technology has advantages over the other, and neither is perfect. LCD and DLP both have the potential to produce undesirable artifacts in the picture. LCD can have vertical banding and DLP can produce rainbow artifacts. Here is how you manage these problems . . .

On occasion, LCD projectors can manifest a problem known as vertical banding. Vertical banding consists of subtle (sometimes not so subtle) vertical bands often in the range of about 1-inch thick, evenly spaced across the entire picture. DLP projectors don"t have this problem. Most LCD projectors don"t either-it is not an automatic byproduct of the technology. It is a flaw that can occur in the manufacturing process of the LCD panels themselves, and some LCD panels will tend to manifest it more noticeably than others. The panels that cause the most visible problems are usually weeded out in the vendor"s quality control process. However, those that create just a hint of banding often pass through QC, since it is prohibitively expensive to discard all parts that exhibit flaws which may have no practical impact on picture quality.

some may have a hint of it that does not rise to the level of a significant issue, and some may have a more visible problem that really does impair the enjoyment of the viewing experience. In the latter case, sometimes the problem can be mitigated with internal adjustments made by the dealer or vendor service departments, and sometimes the LCD panels or the entire unit need to be replaced.

As an example, we have two Panasonic AE700s in house. The older of the two was one of the first units built, and it is the unit we reviewed last fall. We saw some subtle vertical banding on that unit and reported it in the review. It produced some noticeable texture in gray screen test patterns, and in video on infrequent occasions depending on subject matter, but it was not considered to be a significant flaw. In December, Panasonic engineers came to visit, and on that occasion they called up the service menu and tweaked our AE700. The adjustments they made reduced the visibility of the banding on test patterns by about 50%. So a problem that wasn"t a big problem to begin with was reduced, but not eliminated entirely, with internal adjustments.

We acquired a second AE700 about two months ago. This unit shows almost no banding at all on gray screen test patterns although it is still detectable. However it is even less visible than it was on our first unit after tweaking. On the second unit, banding is essentially zero with normal video material playing. When we detect it at all, it is because we are specifically looking for it.

Therefore, those who say they see no banding at all on their AE700 are correct, and those who say they"ve had a problem with banding on the AE700 are also correct. And this phenomenon can occur with any LCD projector. However, the good news is that since vendors are more in tune with the fact that home theater buyers really don"t like vertical banding artifacts, we are seeing less of it these days than we did before.

You can manage your risk on the vertical banding issue by simply buying from a dealer with a consumer oriented return policy. Some dealers allow you ample time to receive and check out your unit, and if there are problems, not only with vertical banding, but with anything in the performance of the projector, you can return it for exchanges or refunds without restocking fees. If the unit you receive has a vertical banding problem, you will see it immediately. So it doesn"t take long to check it out.

DLP projectors have no vertical banding problems. But all of the inexpensive models (okay, say, those under $15,000) have a single DLP chip and a spinning color wheel that can produce visible color separation artifacts-commonly known as rainbows. People tend to perceive rainbow artifacts differently based upon how sensitive they are to them. But basically, they appear as a breakout of red, green, and blue color that shouldn"t be there. When you see momentary splashes of color in Casablanca, you know something"s not quite right. Not only are they visually distracting, but sequential color updating from the spinning color wheel can cause eye strain and headaches for many viewers. This problem never occurs on an LCD projector because LCD projectors don"t use color wheels.

Just as with the LCD vertical banding issue, you need to buy a DLP projector from a dealer that will grant you a favorable return and exchange policy. You must fire it up and audition it for at least two hours with everyone in your household who will be frequent users of the projector. The faster wheel speeds reduce but do not eliminate the possibility that you may experience visual distractions, eyestrain, or headaches. So give everyone a couple of hours of exposure to ensure that nobody is adversely affected. And you might try it with a classic B/W film like Treasures of the Sierra Madre or Casablanca for the ultimate test, since color artifacts, if you are prone to see them at all, will be most apparent on black and white material.

The bottom line is that LCD and DLP projectors can both exhibit flaws that impair the viewing experience. So be aware of the potential issues, and buy from dealers with favorable return policies and good reputations for customer service. By doing so you"ll eliminate the risk of having LCD vertical banding or DLP rainbow problems on your home theater projector.

iFixit has been offering OLED screens for those who would like to tackle repairs on their own. Those go for around $100 less than what Apple charges for an official screen replacement but now, it’s started offering LCD replacement for iPhone X, XS, and XS Max. It’s an interesting downgrade from OLED but some on a budget with DIY interest might find it’s a great option.

we’re now offering an LCD screen option for the iPhone X, XS, and XS Max. These LCDs (and their Fix Kits) are less than half the price of the OLED models we sell. They’re a little darker (about 50 nits worth), the resolution is a little lower, and the colors and contrast ratio won’t be quite the same.

But you might remember that, until a couple years ago, most phones had LCD displays, including phones you probably loved. Apple notably stuck with LCD displays while Samsung was experimenting with early OLED, and Apple still uses LCDs in its iPhone 8 and XR models.

Indeed, it’s like turning your X or XS into a XR, display-wise anyway. iFixit’s new LCD options run $75 for the X, $85 for the XS, and then jump up to $165 for the XS Max.

iFixit highlights “these LCD replacements are hand-tested in the USA to our rigorous quality standards, and we back them up with a lifetime warranty.”

By far the most common types of display panels used on PC monitors are TN, IPS and VA. We"re sure you"ve heard these terms before if you"ve researched monitors to purchase, and to be clear, the type of panel is a key piece of information that reveals a lot about how the monitor will behave and perform.

TN is the oldest of the LCD technologies and it stands for twisted nematic. This refers to the twisted nematic effect, which is an effect that allows liquid crystal molecules to be controlled with voltage. While the actual workings of a TN-effect LCD are a little more complicated, essentially the TN-effect is used to change the alignment of liquid crystals when a voltage is applied. When there is no voltage, so the crystal is "off," the liquid crystal molecules are twisted 90 degrees and in combination with polarization layers, allow light to pass through. Then when a voltage is applied, these crystals are essentially untwisted, blocking light.

IPS stands for in-plane switching and, like all LCDs, it too uses voltage to control the alignment of liquid crystals. However unlike with TN, IPS LCDs use a different crystal orientation, one where the crystals are parallel to the glass substrates, hence the term "in plane". Rather than "twisting" the crystals to modify the amount of light let through, IPS crystals are essentially rotated, which has a range of benefits.

There are many IPS variants on the market, with each of the three big LCD manufacturers using a different term to describe their IPS-type technology. LG simply calls their tech "IPS" which is easy for everyone. Samsung uses the term PLS or plane-to-line switching, while AU Optronics uses the term AHVA or advanced hyper viewing angle. AHVA shouldn"t be confused with regular VA displays, it"s an annoying and confusing name in my opinion, but AHVA is an IPS-like technology. Each of LG"s IPS, Samsung"s PLS and AUO"s AHVA are slightly different but the fundamentals are rooted in IPS.

So in summary, TN panels twist, IPS panels use a parallel alignment and rotate, while VA panels use a vertical alignment and tilt. Now let"s get into some of the performance characteristics and explore how each of the technologies differ and in general, which technology is better in any given category.

By far the biggest difference between the three technologies is in viewing angles. TN panels have the weakest viewing angles, with significant shift to color and contrast in both the horizontal and especially vertical directions. Typically viewing angles are rated as 170/160 but realistically you"ll get pretty bad shifts when viewing anywhere except for dead center. Higher-end TNs tend to be somewhat better but overall this is a big weakness for TNs.

VA and IPS panels are both significantly better, with IPS being the best overall for viewing angles. 178/178 viewing angle ratings are a realistic reflection of what you can expect with an IPS, you won"t get much shift in colors or contrast from any angle. VAs are good in this regard but not as good as IPS, mostly due to contrast shifts at off-center angles. With VAs and especially TNs having some color and contrast shifts when viewing at angles, they"re not as well suited to color-critical professional work as IPS panels, which is why you see most pro-grade monitors sticking to IPS.

In terms of brightness there"s no inherent differences between the technologies because the backlight, which determines brightness, is separate to the liquid crystal panel. However there are significant differences to contrast ratios, and this an area most people look at when determining which panel type they want.

Both TN and IPS panels tend to have a contrast ratio around 1000:1, although in my testing I have noted some differences. TN panels tend to have the lowest contrast ratios when calibrated, with an entry-level panel sitting between 700:1 and 900:1 and good panels pushing up to that 1000:1 mark. IPS has a larger range, I"ve seen some as low as 700:1 like TNs, however the very best tend to push up higher than TN, with 1200:1 as the upper range for desktop monitors and some laptop-grade displays reaching as high as 1500:1.

Neither TN nor IPS get to the range of VA though. Entry-level VA panels start with a contrast ratio of 2000:1 from those that we"ve tested, with the best easily exceeding 4500:1, although 3000:1 is a typical figure for most monitors.

TVs make extensive use of VA panels and there contrast ratios can be even higher. It"s not unusual to see over 6000:1. So if you want deep blacks and high contrast ratios, you"ll need to go with something VA.

While IPS panels tend to be a middle ground for contrast they do suffer from a phenomenon called "IPS glow," which is an apparent white glow when viewing dark imagery at an angle. The best panels exhibit minimal glow but it"s still an issue across all displays of this type.

Color quality is another difference many people cite between TN displays and other display panels in particular. And this can be split into two categories: color depth or bit depth, and color gamut.

In both of these regards, TN panels tend to fall on the weaker end of the scale. Many TN displays, in particular entry-level models, are only natively 6-bit and use frame rate control, otherwise called FRC or dithering, to achieve standard 8-bit output. 6-bit panels are prone to color banding, while native 8-bit panels have smoother color gradients and therefore better color output.

Not all TN panels are 6-bit. The top-end TNs are native 8-bit, but it"s safe to say most TNs will only be native 6-bit, even today. If you are after a native 8-bit display, you"ll need to go with either IPS or VA, where many more panels come native 8-bit.

As for native true 10-bit, typically you"ll need to look for an IPS panel, which make up the majority of native 10-bit panels. Some VA panels can do it, but they are rare. Most displays you purchase that claim to be 10-bit, are actually 8-bit+FRC, with only high-end professional-grade monitors offering a native 10-bit experience.

This is another area where VA and IPS provide a superior experience. The best TN panels tend to be limited to sRGB, or in the case of the worst entry-level panels, don"t even cover the entirety of the sRGB gamut. Wide-gamut TN panels do exist, but they are rare.

VA panels typically start with full sRGB coverage as a minimum, and depending on the panel can push higher. VAs that use a quantum dot film, typically from Samsung, offer higher gamuts, around the 125% sRGB or 90% DCI-P3 mark. Most of the wide gamut VA monitors we"ve tested fall between 85 and 90% DCI-P3 coverage, which is a decent result, though the best can approach 95% or higher.

With IPS panels, there is the largest variance. Entry-level IPS displays tend to offer 95% sRGB coverage or less, while the majority stick to full sRGB coverage. Then with high-end displays, usually for professionals, it"s not unusual to see full DCI-P3 and Adobe RGB coverage. Of all the wide gamut IPS displays I"ve tested, the lowest DCI-P3 coverage I"ve seen has been 93%, with over 95% a typical figure. This makes IPS the best technology for wide gamut work.

Throughout most of this discussion we"ve been talking about TN as the worst of the three technologies. So far, it has the worst color reproduction, contrast ratios and viewing angles. But it does have one key advantage, and that comes in the form of speed. TN panels have historically been the best for both refresh rates and response times, however that trend is slowly changing for the better.

Not long ago, we argued that only with a TN panel it was possible to hit 240 Hz, doing so at 1080p and later up to 1440p. Most recently, however we"ve seen IPS monitors hit the highest mark ever for a consumer-grade gaming monitor at 360Hz, and do so very convincingly. We"re sure other monitors will follow but as of writing, the Asus ROG Swift PG259QN can deliver both the fastest response times and an accurate color experience using an IPS panel.

More mainstream monitors using IPS panels tend to range from the regular 60Hz for productivity, up to 165 Hz and 240 Hz depending on the market they"re aimed at. VA panels top out at around 240 Hz at the moment.

Most IPS displays, especially high-grade options for professionals, as well as entry-level office monitors, are either 60 or 75 Hz. Meanwhile, a significantly larger number of VA panels across a wider range of sizes and resolutions are high-refresh, while the big selling point of TN is its super high refresh capabilities.

Another major consideration is response times, which govern the level of ghosting, smearing and overall clarity of a panel. Early IPS and VA panels were very slow, however this has improved a lot with modern panels, so the differences between the three technologies aren"t as pronounced as they once were. TN still holds an advantage here.

Most TN panels have a rated transition time of 1ms, or even lower with some recent releases. Actual grey to grey averages we"ve measured for TN panels tend to be in the 2-3 ms range when overdrive is factored in, which makes TN the fastest technology.

IPS panels are next in terms of speed, though as tends to be the case with IPS, there is a wide variance between the best and worst of this type. High-end IPS monitors, typically those with high refresh rates, can have a transition time as fast as 3ms. Compared to the best TN panels, this still makes IPS slower. However entry-level IPS panels or those without overdrive sit closer to the 10ms range, while mid-tier options tend to occupy the 5 to 7 ms bracket.

VA panels are consistently the slowest of the three types, but again, high-end gaming monitors have been pushing this further on every generation. The absolute fastest VA panel we"ve measured so far has a 4ms response time which is very impressive, though more typical numbers are between 8 and 10 ms for gaming monitors. VA panels also tend to be less consistent with their transitions; some individual transitions can be fast, while others very slow, whereas IPS panels tend to hover more around their overall grey to grey average.

While a lot of people are unlikely to spot the difference between an 8ms VA panel and a 5ms IPS, TN panels overall tend to be noticeably clearer in motion, but that gap is closing with every generation. The slowness of VA panels also limits their real world refresh rate: a 144 Hz panel that only manages a 9ms response time, is actually delivering an image most equivalent to a 110 Hz panel. Whereas most 144 Hz IPS panels can transition faster than the 6.94ms refresh window, leading to a true 144 Hz experience. So that"s something to consider.

As a quick summary, TN panels are the fastest and have the highest refresh rates, however they have the worst viewing angles by far, as well as weak color performance and typically the lowest contrast ratios. TNs are typically used for ultra-fast gaming displays, as well as budget class displays, for both desktop monitors and laptops.

IPS is a middle-ground technology. They typically have the best color performance and viewing angles, mid-tier response times and refresh rates, along with mid-tier black levels and contrast ratios. Due to its top-end color output, IPS panels are the go-to choice for professionals, but you"ll also find them in entry-level displays, office monitors, most laptops and a handful of gaming monitors.

VA panels are the slowest of the three, but have the best contrast ratio and black levels by far. Color performance isn"t quite at the level of IPS, but they still offer a significantly better experience than TN in this regard.

With response times for the best modern VAs approaching the level of a typical IPS, along with broad support for high refresh rates, VA monitors are commonly used for gaming monitors. Entry-level VAs also tend to be superior to entry-level TN and IPS panels, though you won"t find VA used in laptops.

There"s no right answer to which monitor technology is best, because all have their strengths and weaknesses which is why all three coexist on the market today. However if you want our recommendation, we tend to gravitate towards VA panels for most buyers, especially gamers and those after something entry-level. Creative professionals should be looking exclusively at IPS monitors, while those after something dirt cheap or ultra high refresh for competitive gaming should opt for TN, although superior latest-gen IPS and VA offerings are finally matching or even beating the best of TN in some regards.

TLDR: Why does other 2015/2016 OLEDs, (including a C6 with the same SOC), take about 25% longer than the 55E6 to run a compensation cycle? Times for the 2016 E6, C6 & 2015 EF9500 are almost identical every time. Settings and firmware version has not affected this. If it"s common, maybe the E6 has a faster SOC clock speed, since the C6 uses the same SOC. (Listing updated to include 2022 C2 48" with EX panel.)

Trying to determine if the big difference in time to complete a compensation cycle (CC) shown below is normal. Long story on the 55E6, OOTB (Out Of The Box, Nov. 2016 build), firmware updated via USB to 04.30.95 OK (March 2017). Noticed movie playback was very, very dark. (Brightness at 60+ and Gamma 1.9 looked darker than Gamma 2.4 normally would.) A full TV reset, disconnect power/drain charge, etc. - didn"t help. Tests at IRE 5 showed a brighter wavy border around the screen edges (evident on IRE 15 and below). An LG 65C6 was nothing like that even OOTB. Got a panic call asking for ideas. I asked how many hours were on the TV (if it had run a CC yet - 2016 models run a CC when turned off after 4 hours of use.) Both problems cleared up after the first compensation cycle. (Never judge an OLED TV until a few compensation cycles have been run. That usually helps panel uniformity, but typically there will still be some banding seen especially at lower stimulus levels.)

I wasn"t there to time the first CC on the 55E6 (which obviously did something, as the panel went from horrible to good uniformity at IRE 5), but later repeated timed CC were always just under 6 minutes, where the other 2 OLED models take appx 25% longer to complete a CC cycle. (I saw one other 55E6 owner (Dec. 2017 post on AVforums and AVS) that mentioned his 55E6 CC only took 6 minutes and was also concerned about the shorter time. Replies to his post said their OLEDs took appx 7 minutes, but not sure they were timed with a stopwatch. Some just guess at almost 10 minutes.) I wish I had a Service Remote to see if the number of CC were incrementing normally on the 55E6. (Assuming CC count is incremented after completion, not at the start.)

The list below shows average Compensation Cycle (CC) times for this 55E6 is much lower than the other models tested, which took almost 25% longer to complete. I realize there could be some variation but the average CC times for the 2015 55EF9500 and 2016 65C6 below are literally the same (considering the margin of error starting/stopping a stopwatch), despite different firmware, settings, usage, total hours used, and differences in TV/panel designs. (Although the C6 and E6 use the same SOC and same firmware, I wondered if the E6 difference was perhaps due to a faster processor clock speed, but not sure that is true.) I"ve only seen one other E6 owner report a consistent timed CC of only 6 minutes. (Granted most have never actually timed it - no reason to normally.)LG OLED TV Compensation Cycle Time to Complete

I"m curious if the much lower CC time of the 55E6 is common (for E6), or if it could indicate that the CC is not actually finishing normally. Especially interested in times from any 55E6 owners that had burn-in sooner/more easily than expected. (Again I don"t have a Service Remote to check the number of completed compensation cycles.) AVS had a post from an owner with burn-in on only one of his two 55E6 TVs, despite similar usage and settings. The 55E6 with spring 2016 build date had no burn-in, but the one with Nov. 2016 build date did. (The same build date as this 55E6.) I wish he had been able to check the Service Menu of the 55E6 with burn-in to see if it had a reasonable number of completed Compensation Cycles. (2016 models normally run a CC (when powered off) after every 4 hours of use. Of course if left on for 8 hours for example, then only 1 CC would be run after turning it off.) I saw a post in the past about a panel replacement (for severe banding IIRC) that said the repairman noted no CC appeared to have completed, so no wear compensation was ever done. I can"t recall if the mainboard was replaced as well.)

If you own an LG 55E6 (or 65E6), here"s how to time the duration of the compensation cycle. Using a stopwatch preferably, time from pressing Power Off on the Remote to when the Red LED turns Off in either the Optical Port, or inside rear panel (viewed looking through the top of rear vents on left side). The 701 (January 2017) build 65C6 doesn"t seem to have the red mainboard (Power?) LED, so the Optical Audio Port red LED was used to verify when CC was finished. (This required setting the TV"s Audio to include Optical Out option.) I used the Red LED off to indicate end of CC, as I found the "Click" (relay) wasn"t always easy to hear.

There"s also a "JB" 1 hour CC done automatically at 2000 hours of use. (For 2016 to 2021 models - see note below on 2015 EF9500.) The 2016 and later OLED TVs also have a menu option to run that manually at any time - although IIRC, Sony"s user manual had a note that the 1 hour CC should only be run once a year, as it could shorten the life of the panel. (I assume they mean possibly running out of adjustment/correction reserve.) There"s been some rare cases where the 1 hour CC made banding worse. (And some have said the normal CC effects vary - sometimes reducing banding, and other times the making banding worse.)

Although 2016 and later LG OLED TVs have a manual option to run a 1 hour compensation cycle (called Clear Panel Noise, Pixel Refresher or Pixel Cleaning, depending on year), the 2015 EF9500 (and earlier) models didn"t have that menu option. Also noticed that the 2015 55EF9500 (US FW 4.25.70 then) did not run a 1 hour compensation cycle at the 2000 hour mark, which 2016 and later models do.

(Update: The 2022 LG "WBE" OLED panels run the "JB" 1 hour CC every 500 hours instead of 2000 hours. And the new "EX" panels run a 10 minute JB CC (not 1 hour), due to panel design changes.)

As mentioned earlier, do not judge screen uniformity out of the box - wait until the panel has at least done several compensation cycles. It"s also common to see a very dark image (and "Black Crush") until the OLED panel runs a compensation cycle. (Out of the box, this 55" E6 had severe black crush, and movies were so dark that Brightness at 60+ with Gamma 1.9 was used. The first compensation cycle corrected that, now using Brightness 50 and Gamma BT.1886.)

If after 100 hours or more of use the screen still looks bad enough that you"re returning it, try running the 1 hour manual "Clear Panel Noise" or "Pixel Refresher" option in Settings > Picture > OLED Panel Settings. (For the 2021 models, it"s Pixel Cleaning in Settings > Support > OLED Care > OLED Panel Care.) It may not help, but is worth trying before you return it.

FYI: Some owners of 2020 OLED TVs (all brands) have complained about dark "blobs" that were sometimes not cleared by compensation cycles (manual or automatic), on multiple samples (repeated returns & exchanges). This is in addition to the usual cases of banding, and sometimes tinting. There"s also been many complaints in 2020/2021 about horizontal grid patterns - usually seen in HDR/brighter uniform content.

Using the built-in IRE screens, I checked for banding on the 65C6, 55E6 and 55EF9500 at IRE 5 (OLED 45, Contrast 85, Brightness 50, Gamma BT.1886). The (2015) 55EF9500 is the worst, with an appx 5" wide darker band at the screen edge on the right side. Not a sharp edge as some examples (which look worse), but visible in some uniform dark/gray scenes. Unchanged basically since new, and still there after 3,000+ hours of use. (But much better to have a soft edge band at the edge of the panel than band(s) near the center of the screen. I"d say 99.9% of the time, I never notice it in content.) The (2016) 65C6 is much better than the EF9500, but seems to vary. The 55E6 (after the first CC) is the most uniform of the 3 (so far), but historically the 55" are often more uniform than 65" and larger panels. (Of course there"s always exceptions. There can be differences in chamber cleanliness, deposition uniformity, component parts/design changes, and clearly there are differences in panel uniformity - so much so it"s called a "panel lottery".) Although not as common as near black banding, some screens have had a vignetting effect (darker at screen edges), or more rarely, reverse vignetting (slightly brighter at edges).

At IRE 10 and above, all 3 screens had very good uniformity. (The 55EF9500 does show some very faint bands during the horizontal pan of a gray foggy crash scene in "Oblivion" around the 50 minute mark.) For near-black movie scene tests, there are many - one of the worst/longest I recall is the foggy boat scene near the end of "No Escape". Often fades to/from black will show bands. Some movies have elevated black levels right in the banding "wheelhouse" so to speak. Some owners crush blacks to minimize the problem. Although most OLEDs will show banding in some dark content, in my experience it"s not seen nearly as much in use as DSE (Dirty Screen Effect) on LCD TVs I"ve owned. I think DSE shows more often in content (like ICE Hockey games, or panning across skies for instance). Not every LCD TV has that problem, but it"s not uncommon. I also like OLED"s subpixel level of control instead of "zones" of backlighting used in LCD displays. (But I hope that MicroLED displays may eventually provide all the pros of OLED, without the cons.)

Screen tint can be caused by misalignment of the anti-reflection (AR) filter, or the pixel grid. The new WBE panels are also said to have a pink tink at the edges when viewed off-angle. (Another theory is that Pink tint is due to the White subpixel causing some illumination of the Red subpixel.) Although I didn"t notice any objectionable tinting (pink/red, or yellow, etc. tinted areas or stripes) on these 3 TVs, I"ve seen many complaints from owners over the years, most recent complaints are on Pink tint in some areas of the screen. (I tested in normal direct viewing, not at an off-center angle where tint may be common.) If you do have screen tint that"s noticeable in content, it"s not correctable, so check for that before your return period ends. (White balance adjustments to red, green or blue levels can"t fix tint only in specific areas.)

You probably already know that current production OLED TV panels (made by LG, but also used in other OLED TV brands) are WRGB, with 4 "White" (made of blue and yellow) OLED subpixels and Red, Green and Blue color filters. (The extra White subpixel is used for brightness, as the color filters reduce brightness and those subpixels must be driven harder to compensate. Later panels have larger Red subpixels, as that color was found to be the most often used and therefore the fastest to wear out.) Samsung"s original OLED TV used RGB subpixels (no color filters), with a larger Blue subpixel due to shorter lifespan of that color"s material. (Some companies have been working on improving the lifespan of Blue OLEDs. The hope is that eventually it will be improved to where color filters won"t be needed.)

I believe heat is a factor in OLED TV burn-in (burn out). Higher temperatures increases OLED degradation, and reduces life span. (I"ve heard that Panasonic uses a heatsink on the panel of their OLED TVs.) Rting"s extended burn-in tests of 2016 OLED TVs were more stressful than their later 2017 model tests. The 2016 B6 OLED burn-in test was an "extreme case, using patterns with a lot of static content" (their words) and ran for 20 hours straight per day, with 4 hours off. Their later 2017 C7 OLED burn-in test was "playing real content (not test patterns)" and ran 5 hours on and 1 hour off cycles 4 times per day. The 2017 OLEDs therefore had 4 compensation cycles per day versus only 1 per day for the 2016 OLED TVs. And with 20 hours straight per day of burn-in testing, the 2016 OLED TVs were also subjected to higher panel temperatures, which shortens OLED pixel"s life.

Just a reminder to avoid any direct sunlight on your OLED TV screen - it"s known to cause discoloration. (Some said temporary, others not, perhaps depending on duration.) You can google for reports of sunlight damage on OLED TV screens. (This also applies to LCD screens.) I mention this as someone I know had a TV mounted away from windows, but during the morning sunrise the sun shined though a vertical glass pane beside the front door frame and onto the TV screen. (Direct sunlight rays only aligned with the TV screen during the early morning sunrise - easy to miss unless you were there during that time.)

If you do have burn-in on your OLED, it"s worth contacting LG support to see if they will replace the panel, even if the TV is out of warranty. (I"ve seen several forum posts about "courtesy" panel replacements, usually after posting comments at LG"s public pages. Some 3D TV owners noted signing an agreement they know the new screen doesn"t support 3D, as there"s no more 3D panels.) I"ve seen many reports of LG doing out of warranty OLED screen replacements for burn-in, but don"t recall seeing any reports of other brands doing that.

Personally, I use an old LCD display for watching TV channels with static logos or constant banners (especially if Red/Gold/Yellow). Despite later OLED models (esp. 2018 and later) having improved burn-in features (larger Red subpixel, more reserve drive capacity, improved logo dimming, etc), I would recommend having a LCD TV for regularly viewing content with static HUDs, Logos, etc. (Some may also use the LG"s zoom modes to move logos or banners off the visible screen area.) Typically the OOTB display modes have very high settings for OLED light and Contrast. (And in some cases, Color.) For use in rooms that are not bright, I"ve used much lower settings for OLED for instance, that still look good. (If Energy Saving is On, the OLED setting can"t be changed. And with my older models, when in HDR mode the OLED and Contrast setting can"t be changed.) For News channels with static Logos or constant banners, an option is to use one of the display modes (like APS, which I never use otherwise) set to very low Color, OLED, Contrast, etc.

Despite the risks (with any emissive display), I"m still a fan of OLED, even with its flaws. I feel lucky to have 2015/2016 models, since LG dropped 3D in 2017. Passive 3D on a 4K OLED with a properly applied polarization filter is the best I"ve seen on a flat panel. (Some owners went from 3D haters to fans.) I also have an active 3D Samsung ES8000. (Replaced its power supply board and burned ribbon cable years ago.) Crosstalk on it is reduced a bit after the panel warms up. (IIRC, that improves LCD response time.)

I wish the C6 was a flat screen and not curved, although the curve is very slight. (Flat models are easier to check for being bent.) But even some of the flat screen models have had some bends, from improper handling I suspect. (Models other than the "picture on glass" (like the E6) have very thin panels that are easily bent if not handled carefully.)

This article was originally written about the 2016/2015 OLEDs, before the current models were available. As mentioned in some notes above, later OLED TVs are much improved in areas of pixel structure (larger Red subpixel, improved fill rate/aperture ration, etc.), logo luminance settings, brightness, better near-black performance, better HDR Tone Mapping, more display modes/options, motion (some models), calibration, and support for some HDMI 2.1 modes. (Some models include BFI (black frame insertion) options.) I wish Panasonic sold their OLED TVs in the USA, as I"ve heard great things about them and some models use a heatsink on the panel. I"ve always thought heat is be a factor in OLED longevity/pixel burn out. (Update: I believe the Sony A90J, A95K, and 2022 LG G2 models have a heatsink.)

If all my 3D TVs were to fail (but with my usage and spares, not likely), I"d get a Projector with 3D support. (Probably DLP, some are very affordable with great 3D on a large screen. I should have done that already.) And I wish I"d had the funds to buy a Sony 75Z9D when they were blowing them out at clearance prices. (Many feel the Z9D is the best LCD TV ever made, great HDR and the last LCD TV made with 3D support. The 75" had a faster response panel (less motion blur) than the 65". Some complaints about 3D Crosstalk, but still an overall great TV.)

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