lcd panel banding quotation

In LCD and LED TVs, DSE is typically a bigger issue, one that"s due to the way these units are illuminated. Before we proceed, it"s worth mentioning that although marketing-speak often treats LED and LCD TVs as completely different technologies, they"re not different beasts.

LED units could be more accurately described as "LED-backlit LCD televisions," but salespeople and consumers alike are too lazy to utter that tongue-wearying phrase while haggling in a big-box store. What"s important to realize is that both categories rely on LCDs (liquid crystal displays), which act as shutters that either block light or allow it to pass, depending on the image that"s being rendered on the screen.

There are a variety of factors that affect LCD quality, notably illumination source. Older LCD TVs, for example, used multiple cold cathode fluorescent lamps (CCFL) to light LCDs from the rear. They provide generally smooth and even illumination, but they make the final product rather bulky.

If you"ve ever pressed a little too hard on your smartphone or computer screen, you"ve likely witnessed a bit of discoloration, clear evidence of how sensitive LCDs are to physical pressure. Now, picture a huge manufacturing facility that cranks out thousands of these units per week. It"s easy to see how a bit of mishandling could alter the screen"s consistency.

The same goes for shipping. Some units travel long distances in cargo boxes, and then take bouncy rides in your car to their final resting place on your living room wall. That"s a lot of opportunities for tiny mishaps to affect LCD uniformity.

It"s my guess that all U2410"s have this behavior with the Hue control in Custom Mode. Keep in mind that the Hue controls are very image specific, and it needs not only the correct image to show banding, but also the correct hue control(s) being adjusted that are sensitive to banding for that particular image, since sometimes you can set some values extremely low/high and not notice banding - not because it doesn"t exist but because that particular image doesn"t use much of that particular colour value in ways which will show up as banding.

What I recommend you do is post the image you notice banding on - not a screenshot of your monitor - the actual image. Then say the specific Hue values you are adjusting, and what values you are setting the Hue Controls to. This will allow other people to reproduce what you see.

Like I said, I think this issue is more down to a limitation of the current LCD panel technology than a real specific issue with the U2410 You should be able to adjust for correct colours in custom mode without really touching the Hue controls very much anyway.. My R,B and M Hue controls are set to 51 - the rest are 50, and I"m very happy with what I see in terms of colours. It"s perhaps possible that Dell could allow for a bit more nuanced fine tuning in the controls than 0 to 100, but I don"t think it"s going to change much in terms of avoiding the banding you see. As said, if you want a more fine tuned control, you"re going to have to buy a hardware calibration device and fine tune a different mode like Standard Mode, or use the graphics card settings, although I agree it"d be nice if there were a way to use higher/lower Hue control values and not see any banding in images..

The "fault" is the monitor"s. It"s often not the LCD panel itself, but the backlight that drives it. These are often CCFL (fluorescent tubes), and while you can adjust the LCD refresh frequency, the CCFL frequency might be fixed. If the backlight has aged or is off for some reason, or the power supply that drives it is off, the frequency won"t match any standard and you"ll have to either replace the monitor or use a camera that lets you dial the shutter speed / scan frequency (= not a DSLR).

For example, we"ve never had issues with Apple monitors, they look fine with our GH2"s at 1/50 and 1/60 speeds. But our Dell U2410 LCD"s (all of them) will flicker no matter what. With the EX1 we were able to dial custom shutter angles to cancel it out.

I recently received a secondhand Q via a trade and noticed some weird things going on with it so far. The camera is in excellent shape itself and I love the files but I noticed what I think is an issue with the LCD display.

For reference this is what I see on the LCD screen when zoomed in shows what I can only describe as banding or something. This seems to happen at all ISO"s, granted this one is high at 6400. But I notice it even at 1600 or even 2000 when zoomed in and you can even notice it when not zoomed in but not as apparent. The file itself once on my computer is fine and has no issues at all. So it makes me think its just an issue with the LCD but what exactly is the issue?

Have other people run into a similar issue before and if so, whats the solution? Im not entirely happy that when I zoom in on my LCD screen on the camera that I am seeing this problem.

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There isn"t really much I can add that hasn"t already been mentioned. There is a trend when you go higher up the ranges that you get better overall screen uniformity from TVs, especially ones that have good local dimming or OLEDs but you can still get lucky or unlucky with all panel types.

If you can afford an OLED and you don"t think you will be prone to burn in then it will be your best chance at getting the most uniform panel, generally OLEDs are a lot more uniform as they do not have lights shining from behind the panel like LCDs do.

Even with LCDs with good local dimming screen uniformity can be bad and some adjustments sometimes have to be made to minimize it. On my Panasonic DX902 LCD (512 dimming zones) I can"t watch sport with local dimming above min as I notice the lines from the zones behind the TV.

It has to be said though, it depends on the LCD TV, Samsung models with local dimming (Q8FN, Q9FN) tend to have less blooming but more noticeable zones behind the TV but Sony tend to have more blooming but less noticeable zones.

It"s hard to say. Now that I"ve wrapped my head around the fact that all OLED"s have vertical banding (GZ2000 may be the only exception here), I think I can live with it, so long as I don"t feel it is ruining my viewing.

I think tinting may be more of a problem for some. Football and Tennis is probably a good test, if you can watch a footy match without banding cropping up, or the pitch colour shifting - then it"s likely a keeper.

Mine also comes with lower gamma than 2.2. Applying the stock .icc that came with the official DVD does not have any effect. I use the PCmonitors.info gamma fix .icc but it introduces slightly banding on lagom tests. Other than that I did not notice any banding in the games I play.

Liquid crystal display (LCD) is a flat panel display that uses the light modulating properties of liquid crystals. Liquid crystals do not produce light directly, instead using a backlight or reflector to produce images in colour or monochrome.

As illustrated on the next page, obvious banding in the spinning wheels indicates that your display is playing back with less than full 10-bit bit depth.

Unlike a monochrome display, color monitors must form at least three grayscale images that represent the red, green, and blue data channels found in a standard SMPTE color signal. Most 3-chip projectors, whether using LCD, LCoS, or DLP imaging chips, start by using the data from each of the incoming R, G, and B data channels to form associated grayscale images. These are then illuminated by red, green, and blue lights (created by filtering a white light or using color LEDs or lasers) to form an overlapping full color image on screen (Figure 4).

The type of artifact most closely associated with bit depth, or rather, the lack of it, is the banding artifact. It looks like what it sounds like: areas of the image that should ideally look smooth and show even transitions of light and color instead exhibit noticeable bands or outlines where the brightness or color visibly jumps from one level to another. The display simply lacks the ability to reproduce all the fine gradations called for by the signal.

Below (Figure 5) are examples of the 10-bit circular HDR grayscale target cited above as it should appear when properly processed at 10-bit depth (top), and with obvious banding as a result of being processed with only 8-bit or 9-bit depth (bottom). You can clearly see the banding steps in the darkest part of the test pattern, and more subtly, in the brighter part of the pattern.

As with the grayscale bit-depth chart shown in Figure 1 and the grayscale pattern above, differences in color bit-depth can also manifest visibly with banding—although the eye is more forgiving with certain colors than others. The illustration below (Figure 6), for example, easily shows banding patterns on most displays between 12-bit and 24-bit color, but these would be harder to see when comparing 20 and 24 bit colors.

In real world content on most 8-bit per color displays, you might perceive bit-depth banding issues in the transitions of light levels and colors in a sunset, or in the different hues of blue in a sky. Other bit-depth artifacts can be seen around the edges of objects, such as the transition between a planet in outer space and the halo of light surrounding it, or when one saturated color ends and another begins. Instead of a smooth tonal transition, you see a line or edging effect. For example, in the illustration below, shot in 4K HDR with 10-bit color depth, compare the out-of-focus, violet-tinged flowers behind the butterfly. The top frame in Figure 7 shows the out-of-focus flowers as they should appear with proper 10-bit processing. Below that is the frame processed at 8 bits per color.

For another example, consider the photos below in Figure 9 of a real color spectrum—a double rainbow. The photo on top is processed with 10-bit color, while the bottom image is processed with 8-bit color. The 8-bit version suffers not only from posterization and banding artifacts in the sky, but the fainter of the two rainbows (the one on the left) practically disappears due to the combination of posterization and truncated color gamut. This is the kind of image degradation you might expect if you saw banding in the 10-bit grayscale test pattern discussed above, and illustrates what happens when three overlapping grayscale images (each with distinct banding issues) are used to form a color image.

However, it wasn"t until 4K UHD Blu-ray movies and players became available, enabling the distribution of high dynamic range (HDR) and wide color gamut (WCG) content to a home audience, that 10-bits per color became an important feature for both flat panel TV"s and projectors. Before that, the marketing of displays and projectors had concentrated on increased resolution and in some cases, improved color accuracy and extended color gamut reproduction. In 2015, 10-bits per color became the minimum acceptable color standard when the CEA released its minimum guidelines for HDR10-compatible displays and projectors, which included a 10-bit requirement under the HDR10 Media Profile. Here are the parameters:EOTF: SMPTE ST2084

Here"s how it typically works for an 8-bits per color display claiming to be HDR-compatible: When an incoming 10-bit HDR movie signal is detected, a front end processor in the display downsamples the signal to 8-bits per color data, or creates dithered 10-bit colors. Next, the display applies a reverse HDR or HLG curve adjustment to counter the EOTF 2084 contrast curve applied during the HDR mastering process. A color look up table (LUT) is then applied to scale all the wide gamut colors the display can"t reproduce to the closest in-gamut colors that it can reproduce. Additional image tweaks may include selective saturation, contrast, and blurring adjustments to minimize posterization and banding artifacts.

Unfortunately, in addition to color gamut limitations just described, downsampling and dithering also causes image-quality artifacts including posterization effects, lost shadow and highlight details, banding in fine color gradation, and outlines appearing along the edges of fine tonal transitions (as shown above in Figures 6 through 8). All of these problems are overcome by a display or projector with true 10-bits per color processing and the ability to reproduce a color gamut approaching or exceeding 100% of the DCI-P3 color space.

Projectors and flatpanel TVs with true 10-bit processing and the improved image quality it enables are out there and more affordable than you might think. But they"re competing with some "HDR10-compatible" models that claim all sorts of HDR advantages yet don"t reveal their 8-bit limitations until you see their output on screen, or learn about it in a product review. The lesson? If you"re in the market for a new projector, make sure you do your homework.

Do you believe we will ever get 36 bit colour projectors? If so when could you gestimate when we would have such things? Which system is best capable of doing in future, laser, LCD etc?

I"m curious about the use of temporal dithering for the many panels that are true 8 bit panels but want to "show" 10 bit colors. With all manufacturers that I investigate, I cannot find what their native panels are. What I am looking for is a modern day true 10 bit projector, but I don"t know where to look. Many say they perform 10 bit color processing, but that does not necessarily mean the panels are 10 bit. I"d really love to hear your thoughts on this. Thank you for the great article.

Why are there black bars and/or squeezing (banding) with my monitor?If there are black bars around your signal and/or a “squeezing” effect, this means that the aspect ratio of your monitor and the incoming video signal do not match.

My touch screen is not working.All touch panels must be connected to a computer via USB or RS232 cable. This allows the touch panel to communicate with the computer.

If you recently downloaded a new touch panel driver, you must also delete the old driver and reboot your computer. Make sure you have deleted any old touch panel drivers and then restart your computer.

My touch screen is not registering correctlyAll non-HID compliant touch panels will need to be calibrated during the initial start-up and may need recalibrating at some other point in the future. This is accomplished via the touch panel software installed on your computer. For a detailed walk through, please contact us.

Certain touch panels are susceptible to issues due to grease/dust/water and therefore may need added care. If this is a constant problem, please contact us for further assistance.

For heavier duty cleaning, create a solution of 80% alcohol mixed with 20% water and use the damp, not wet, cloth to clean the screen and panel surface.