rad power bike lcd display manual made in china

My roommate and friend Dagny Daniel was in the market for an electric bike, and when she saw Rad Power Bikes was selling their entry-level e-bike for a $500 ($700 lower than its usual price), she jumped at the opportunity to buy it. When the bike came, Dagny put it together and charged it up, excited to hit the bike path.

But she’d only had it for a few days when the honeymoon period ended. Dagny and I were riding with a group of other people on bikes deep in the north Portland peninsula this past weekend when all the sudden, the lights on her bike turned off and the pedal-assist stopped working. (No, it wasn’t dead.) Eventually, we got it going again, but only briefly before it puttered out once more and she had to ride to back without any electric assistance or lights. Right now, the bike is sitting in our basement waiting for someone to figure out what went wrong and get it back in commission.

Dagny isn’t the only person who just bought a Rad Power bike. The e-bike company’s recent sale was very popular – turns out, $500 e-bikes sell like hotcakes. On my own Twitter feed, I heard dozens of accounts of people buying their first electric bikes because of this sale. One particularly exciting anecdote was from someone who said that the person who delivered their bike was so inspired by all the boxes of bikes he was delivering that he decided to get one for himself.

Some e-bike advocates saw the success of this sale as an indication that there’s a demand for electric bikes that should be met with more rebate programs. The popularity of such programs in places like Colorado has shown that people are interested in buying e-bikes at reduced rates and once they have the bikes, they often become game-changers for reducing their car use.

But Dagny’s experience made me wonder if there are more people who have had trouble with their new Rad Power bikes and how local bike shops are dealing with it.

Rad Power is based out of Seattle, and they have brick-and-mortar service centers in some other cities in the United States and Canada (but not in Portland). They used to operate a mobile repair service in some other cities, including Portland, so people could get help directly from Rad Power, but they cancelled that program a few months before the big sale. (According to Rad Power’s website, local mobile bike repair service Velofix is still available to help.) This has left some bike shops in a lurch.

Employees at the The eBike Store in the Piedmont Neighborhood express skepticism about direct-to-consumer electric bike companies like Rad Power. Andrew Schnell, a sales employee at the bike shop, says he thinks they’ve been able to hone in on an important market of people who want functional, non-luxury electric bikes at an affordable price.

The least expensive bike sold at the eBike store is $2500 – twice as much as what the RadMission usually costs, and five times as much as its sale price. Schnell said he thinks it’s worth the cost for a better quality bike that you can get serviced locally, but he understands why people are hesitant to pay that much for a bike.

Schnell said he has had trouble getting ahold of people from Rad Power when he has questions about their bikes, so the shop is limited in what it can do to help people who run into problems with them. This has meant some angry customers leaving one-star Yelp reviews for the eBike Store, which never claimed to be a Rad Power retailer or service shop in the first place.

There are several stores in Portland that Rad Power owners have said will service their bikes. Rad Power’s website lists the Bikeologist Mobile Bicycle Repair and Upcycles as options for people who want to get help in-person. But part replacements for Rad Power bikes are hard to come by right now because of all the demand.

Thankfully, experiences like Dagny’s seem rare. When I tweeted asking for people’s experiences with their new Rad Power bikes, I received overwhelmingly positive reports, and most people writing reviews online are very pleased with their purchase. (And by the way, Dagny isn’t giving up on her bike – she’ll get back on the seat as soon as she can, but it might take some time to find someone who can help.)

Schnell acknowledges that his exposure to the bikes is more likely to be negative because people are coming to the bike shop with their grievances. But his overall takeaway is that because this industry is fairly new, there are going to be some kinks to work out as e-bikes stake their place as a popular mode of transportation.

Taylor has been BikePortland’s staff writer since November 2021. She has also written for Street Roots and Eugene Weekly. Contact her at taylorgriggswriter@gmail.com

Lastly, don’t go poking around in parts of your e-bike that you don’t feel comfortable with. Some of these tips are simple things that everyone can do, while others are more technical and should only be attempted by those with a deeper understanding of electrical bicycle components like motors, batteries and speed controllers. And don’t forget that some of these can surely void your warranty, if your e-bike came with one.

A battery that is at a higher state of charge has a higher voltage. The speed of a DC motor (like the one in your e-bike) is entirely voltage dependent. So higher voltages = higher speeds.

Since motor speed is voltage dependent, using a higher voltage battery is the quickest way to substantially increase your speed. However, before you upgrade your 36V battery to 48V, for example, you’ll want to check that your controller can handle the increased voltage (most can accept slight over-volting). If you don’t feel comfortable checking the voltage rating of your controller (usually written on the capacitors) then check with the manufacturer. Do not just swap out your battery without checking – you could risk frying your controller if it can’t handle the higher voltage.

You’ll simply want to source a motor that has a higher KV or RPM rating than your current motor. For example, if you have a 48V e-bike that travels at about 20 mph (32 km/h), you can swap on this hub motor and reach speeds closer to 28-30 mph (45-48 km/h).

Knobby tires for mountain bikes are great for grip, and their wide contact patch can really help smooth out bumps. However, they’re terrible for speed.

I know this sounds crazy, but it really works. Adding a windshield to your electric bike can have a big impact on speed. I’ve seen it add 3 mph (5 km/h) to an already higher speed e-bike, though it won’t have as dramatic of an effect on lower speed e-bikes which are less impacted by drag.

So make sure your battery is getting adequate cooling air to keep it from heating up more than necessary. Most e-bikes already have adequate cooling, but some that keep the battery hidden in a bag can have heat issues, which might be robbing you of a bit of top end speed.

There are two ways this is commonly done. The first is to alter the settings in the e-bike’s display to tell it that it has a smaller wheel size. Since the e-bike measures speed by counting wheel rotations, it will suddenly think it is going slower and may remove the speed restriction.

The second method is to look for a speed limiting wire jumper at the controller. This is often a single wire connected together with an electrical connector, which can be plugged together to limit speed to an EU-legal 25 km/h (15.5 mph), or removed to allow for a higher top speed for other countries. If your e-bike is designed to be EU legal, you might be able to find a jumper like this that can be unplugged to remove the speed limiter.

Remember that with great speed comes great responsibility. Obey traffic laws. Wear a helmet. And please don’t attempt to do anything on your e-bike that you don’t feel comfortable with or aren’t prepared to handle.

Lastly, don’t go poking around in parts of your e-bike that you don’t feel comfortable with. Some of these tips are simple things that everyone can do, while others are more technical and should only be attempted by those with a deeper understanding of electrical bicycle components like motors, batteries and speed controllers. And don’t forget that some of these can surely void your warranty, if your e-bike came with one.

A battery that is at a higher state of charge has a higher voltage. The speed of a DC motor (like the one in your e-bike) is entirely voltage dependent. So higher voltages = higher speeds.

Since motor speed is voltage dependent, using a higher voltage battery is the quickest way to substantially increase your speed. However, before you upgrade your 36V battery to 48V, for example, you’ll want to check that your controller can handle the increased voltage (most can accept slight over-volting). If you don’t feel comfortable checking the voltage rating of your controller (usually written on the capacitors) then check with the manufacturer. Do not just swap out your battery without checking – you could risk frying your controller if it can’t handle the higher voltage.

You’ll simply want to source a motor that has a higher KV or RPM rating than your current motor. For example, if you have a 48V e-bike that travels at about 20 mph (32 km/h), you can swap on this hub motor and reach speeds closer to 28-30 mph (45-48 km/h).

Knobby tires for mountain bikes are great for grip, and their wide contact patch can really help smooth out bumps. However, they’re terrible for speed.

I know this sounds crazy, but it really works. Adding a windshield to your electric bike can have a big impact on speed. I’ve seen it add 3 mph (5 km/h) to an already higher speed e-bike, though it won’t have as dramatic of an effect on lower speed e-bikes which are less impacted by drag.

So make sure your battery is getting adequate cooling air to keep it from heating up more than necessary. Most e-bikes already have adequate cooling, but some that keep the battery hidden in a bag can have heat issues, which might be robbing you of a bit of top end speed.

There are two ways this is commonly done. The first is to alter the settings in the e-bike’s display to tell it that it has a smaller wheel size. Since the e-bike measures speed by counting wheel rotations, it will suddenly think it is going slower and may remove the speed restriction.

The second method is to look for a speed limiting wire jumper at the controller. This is often a single wire connected together with an electrical connector, which can be plugged together to limit speed to an EU-legal 25 km/h (15.5 mph), or removed to allow for a higher top speed for other countries. If your e-bike is designed to be EU legal, you might be able to find a jumper like this that can be unplugged to remove the speed limiter.

Remember that with great speed comes great responsibility. Obey traffic laws. Wear a helmet. And please don’t attempt to do anything on your e-bike that you don’t feel comfortable with or aren’t prepared to handle.

The RadCity 5 Plus e-bike from Rad Power Bikes has just been launched with a pile of new upgrades, making it the most extensive update to the RadCity electric commuter e-bike yet. The team at Rad kindly gave me the opportunity to get an early test ride on the new RadCity 5 Plus, and today I’m taking you along with me to see what makes this new e-bike tick.

The new RadCity 5 Plus is the latest e-bike in Rad’s lineup to get the “Plus” treatment. That’s where Rad takes an existing e-bike and upgrades the quality and utility of the bike by adding new features and higher spec components.

Earlier this summer we saw Rad Power Bikes do something similar with its most popular e-bike, the fat tire RadRover. When the new RadRover 6 Plus landed, we witnessed a slew of awesome new upgrades like hydraulic disc brakes, a new motor, upgraded display, sleeker semi-integrated battery, new lighting, and other improvements.

Now Rad is following a similar path with the commuter-ready RadCity e-bike line. Both the RadCity step-over and RadCity step-through are getting a number of similar upgrades to create the RadCity 5 Plus edition.

Extras: dual displays, higher accuracy battery gauge, front and rear LED lights, 5 speed settings, half-twist throttle, higher power USB charging ports (optional), mounting for front and rear racks, fenders included standard, redesigned battery, higher torque motor

The first and most obvious is a new battery. Just like the RadRover 6 Plus, the RadCity is getting Rad’s newly designed battery pack that slides down into the frame. Not only does that create a sleeker package by hiding away the battery, but it also frees up a lot more space in the triangle of the step-over frame. On the Step-through version, it allows the frame to be even more accessible with extra room to swing a leg through.

The battery is still 672 Wh, which is on the larger size of the e-bike battery spectrum. It offers reasonable range of around 25-50 miles depending on if you’re ripping on the throttle or taking it easy with pedal assist. I’ve ridden plenty of Rad Power Bikes e-bikes and range has never been issue.

The second major update that will likely catch the eye is the new motor. The last RadCity was the final holdout in the Rad lineup for direct drive motors. Those were big, dinner plate-size motors that took up a lot of space in the rear wheel. Now Rad has moved to a smaller, lighter but torquier geared hubmotor in the rear. The downside is that you lose the regenerative braking option (even though that gave back only marginal battery charge). The upside is… just about everything else. The new motor is lighter, smaller, better at hill climbing, and doesn’t look like such an eyesore in the rear wheel.

I took the bike up some steep Seattle hills and the new motor worked great on both throttle-only and pedal assist riding. Rad claims a 40% increase in hill climbing speed and I believe them. The RadCity 5 Plus flew me up some super steep hills with an ease that surprised me.

The last major eye-catching update is the pair of new LED displays. This is likely to be a divisive feature, but I’m a fan. The former simplistic LCD display has now been split into two LED displays.

Then on the left bar end there’s a combined remote and display that provides less frequently used info like pedal assist level, battery charge, and headlight status. That’s all important data, but not something you’re constantly looking at. Most people check their battery level once in a while, and pedal assist level is kind of a set-it-and-forget-it thing.

I also like that the functions being actuated by the buttons are located next to the buttons. For example, on the old screen you would click the button on the left bar end to change the pedal assist level, then have to look back to the display in the center of the bars to see if the level changed and what level you were in now. With the new system, that info is right next to the buttons, making it quicker and easier to use – no more hunting around with your eyes.

Some people won’t like that there are more things taking up handlebar real estate, and I certainly get that. When you want to add your own lights, phone holders, and other aftermarket accessories, space on the bars is at a premium. But I do think the new displays are a well thought out and executed feature.

In addition to the newly designed frame, the RadCity 5 Plus also gets some upgraded components. Chief among those upgrades are new hydraulic disc brakes.

Even though mechanical disc brakes are absolutely fine for a 20 mph (32 km/h) e-bike, hydraulic disc brakes are simply a nicer upgrade. They require less maintenance since you don’t have to adjust cable lengths as they stretch. They require less force to get the same stopping power, meaning you can more easily one-finger brake to maintain better control of the handlebars. The levers are adjustable so riders with either small or large hands can dial them into a comfortable distance from the bars. And the brakes aren’t susceptible to cable rust or housing wear, which can cause bicycles to have non-responsive braking as the bike ages.

Rad Power Bikes also includes higher-quality ceramic brake pads in the calipers, giving an even stronger bite and longer-lasting brakes. With brake pad replacement essentially the only maintenance item left with hydraulic brakes, longer maintenance intervals offered by ceramic pads push these brakes even closer to nearly zero-maintenance territory.

The rear of the bike has also been reworked to create a bolt-on rack instead of a frame-integrated rack. That means you have more options for accessories and you also aren’t stuck with an unmodify-able rear end. If you ever banged up your frame-integrated rack on the old model, you were out of luck. With this setup, it can easily be replaced and thus increases the lifespan of the bike itself.

New tires are also present on the RadCity 5 Plus. The puncture-resistant tires were re-engineered for the bike and supposedly offer an 11% increase in range.

One change I’m not so sure how I feel about is the new suspension fork. The reduced travel makes the bike a bit lower and lighter, but it doesn’t have quite the same absorption range anymore. Of course this is a city bike, not a trail bike, and so the 60 mm travel RTS spring fork is probably adequate for the type of riding most people do.

The previous RadCity had a bit more “mountain bike in a city” feel with that 80 mm travel fork, and so dropping down to a mere 60 mm is probably a good compromise, even if it means we don’t have quite the same amount of suspension as we used to have.

The lower seat height opens the door to an ever wider range of riders, with Rad boasting of an extra 5″ of height range to the high-step model and an extra 2″ of height range for the step-through model.

Priced at $1,799, it’s on the higher end of Rad’s lineup. But then again, we’re talking about a “Plus” series e-bike, and all of Rad’s more premium Plus models are going to come priced at a premium.

With a wide range of e-bikes from $999 starter e-bikes to these new Plus models with higher-end components, Rad Power Bikes is swinging at and connecting with a huge swath of the market.

For a massive company with in-person service covering most of the country, they’re making it pretty darn easy for as many riders as possible to make the Rad decision.

I’ve had two other ebikes and put about 23000 km on them between them. They were the Voltbike Yukon 750 and the Juiced Bikes Cross Current S2. The Rad Rover 5 is similar to the Yukon but less powerful (the Yukon has a 750 watt motor) and does not have hydraulic brakes. Build quality for the Rad Rover seems fine to me but the assembly process is a lot longer than with either of the other two. I was about an hour and a half doing this but I maintain my own bikes so perhaps this would be longer for others. Also I purchased accessories at the same time as I bought the bike itself – I did this with the Yukon also and Voltbike installed them all before sending the bike out – not true for the Rad Rover 5, unfortunately.

But that’s not the biggest issue I have with the RR5 – like given I maintain my own bikes, spending a bit of quality time getting to know them at the front end isn’t the end of the world to me. But that may not be the case for others. In any event, my biggest issue with this bike concerns charging the battery. Here is the process for doing so on the RR5:

You must do a finicky manual battery cell balancing process for the first three rides you take and every month after that – this involves charging the battery for as close to 12 hours as possible without exceeding 12 hours.

I have a $300 Grin Satiator charger from my earlier ebikes which does the whole job (not damaging itself or the battery if you leave it attached after charging is complete and balancing the cells) but Rad forbids their (and any other third party charger) use on their bikes. FWIW Juiced Bikes suggested this charger as an upgrade over the stock one, which is why I have one.

In sum, I think the bike is ok compared to my other two but the charging requirements are onerous and the restrictions on what chargers you can use really limit your options.

The bike must be packaged in the original shipping box using the original packaging materials. Please make sure you have them! (If you don’t, a new box/packaging must be obtained locally)

Despite the relatively low price point, this ebike comes with a high capacity battery, powerful motor (meeting the maximum spec for each geography where it is sold), puncture resistant reflective tires, and integrated lights. For a bit extra, they can assemble and delivery it in most major cities. Rad seems to have a good supply of replacement parts and support their battery packs over many generations, so your bike can be maintained and repaired. It might also hold a higher resale value based on the name brand recognition.

Safety is a big deal to me, especially on a lower bike like this (with smaller 20″ wheels), so the reflective tires and integrated lights are very nice to see. Note that the headlight has side cutouts to be visible from more angles and the rear light has a button to change from solid to flashing mode. When braking, the rear light also goes extra bright! For a bit extra, you can replace the stock headlight with an even larger and brighter 500 lumen premium headlight that comes standard on the RadRunner Plus.

This ebike uses the same high-capacity battery pack as most of the other current-generation Rad Power Bikes (just not the RadRover Plus or RadCity Plus, which use the semi-integrated pack (not compatible), and not the RadMission, which has a lower capacity battery (is compatible)). In short, you can share this same battery between older generation RadRover, RadCity, RadWagon, and RadMini models.

The battery pack can be charged on or off the bike frame, locks securely into place, contains two fuses for safety, the mounting bracket is sturdy and attaches with three bolts vs. two on some competing products. They used high quality Samsung 35E Lithium-ion cells, and the pack is fairly affordable to replace because it’s standardized and the controller is separate. I also like that the locking cylinder built into the battery has an unlocked, locked+off, and locked+on position so you can leave the pack locked to the frame (but powered off) so people won’t be able to tamper with the display or throttle. Note that the 4-LED charge level indicator will not work if the battery is in the locked+off position.

Unique adjustable high-rise handlebar can angle forward or back to significantly change reach. The extra long 390mm seat post accommodates taller riders, allowing for efficient leg extension while pedaling. Most competing “minibikes” or “utility bikes” don’t have the adjustability offered here, and aren’t as enjoyable to pedal in my experience.

The smaller wheels position the frame close to the ground, and the step-thru frame style provides a low standover height. The bike is very easy to approach and handle, even when loaded with gear, but the frame doesn’t flex very much because of large gusset plates at the steer tube and an additional mini top-tube connecting the downtube to the seat tube.

High-volume tires, ergonomic grips, and brake levers with rubberized edges all contribute to comfort. I like to lower the tire pressure a bit to make the ride even smoother because I’m fairly light weight. The new 15mm thicker saddle is noticeably different and more comfortable than the first generation RadRunner, but you could also add a suspension seatpost here if it’s not enough. Just note that replacing the seatpost will force you to purchase a standard saddle to interface with it, because the proprietary saddle here requires a custom mounting plate that is welded to the seat post.

Large 180mm mechanical disc brake rotors provide ample stopping power given the relatively small 20″ wheel diameter, they definitely come in handy if you’re riding with a passenger, child, or cargo in some of the optional racks and bags. The larger size also dissipates heat faster, but be careful not to bend them by forcing the front wheel into a crowded bike rack. Note also that the hub motor gets a mechanical advantage from the smaller wheels.

Unique single speed drivetrain is above average. Rad Power Bikes is using a DNP nickel plated rear sprocket with 16 teeth, and a 52 tooth steel chainring with an aluminum alloy guide to prevent chain drops! Instead of using a sliding rear dropout (which is trickier to re-mount with disc brakes and may interfere with the chain line) Rad specced a chain tensioner. I love that they also included a steel derailleur guard to protect this tensioner during shipping and if the bike tips over, but the hanger is also replaceable if it gets bent!

The original RadRunner 1 had the motor power cable routed along the right chainstay and entering into the axle below the derailleur guard. It was a decent setup, but the new bikes all place this cable on the left side of the frame positioned below and inside the chainstay and between the disc brake rotor. It’s extremely well protected here! Note that most cables are internally routed on this frame to look clean and reduce snags. There’s good neoprene cable wrap up front where the cable all meet too.

Extra-thick 12 gauge spokes provide improved wheel strength, raising the max capacity of this ebike to 300lbs vs. 250lbs on many traditional ebikes (and 275lbs for most other current generation Rad Power Bikes). Note that the rims have been changed to single wall vs. double wall, which helps to reduce weight. I think the single wall still makes sense strength-wise here given the smaller wheel diameter.

There are tons of options for mounting baskets and racks on this thing, I like how the front rack attaches to the head tube and won’t influence steering or dump to the side when parking. Rad Power Bikes has platforms, baskets, insulated bags, pannier bags, suspension seat posts, child seats, as well as cell phone holders and more back at their site. Note that the rear rack was designed with a Yepp! child seat window to work with a specific style of seat that’s super easy to install and remove.

Kenda and Rad Power Bikes worked together to create a series of tires with reflective stripes and K-Shield puncture protection including these unique 20″ x 3.3″ K-Rad tires. They are the only tires I have ever seen in this size, and they fit the bike perfectly… not too big and bulky, not too small and stiff feeling, they are stable and capable on many types of terrain and allowed for some sporty fast turns during my ride tests! Consider lowering the pressure towards 5PSI to ride across really soft terrain like dry sand, wet loamy fields, or packed snow (though it probably won’t work as well as a true 4.0″ or 4.9″ wide fat tire).

Pedal assist responds quickly because of the 14 pulse cadence sensor, which is smaller and better sealed against water and dust than some of the older larger external designs (which only use 5, 6, or 13 magnets). The motor cuts out instantly whenever you brake because both levers have motor inhibitor switches built in. In my opinion, the Rad Power Bikes controller is set to ramp power up smoothly. This means that even though the twist throttle and pedal assist are very responsive, the bike doesn’t feel too jarring or overwhelming.

I really like that they chose brake levers with a bell that’s built into the left housing. It’s compact and keeps the handlebars clean but works reliably and produces a friendly chime. I also like that these are four finger levers, which provide extra stopping power. The levers have a rubberized edge for grip, comfort, and warmer engagement vs. cold metal. Also notice the large seat collar lever which is easier to loosen and tighten than some of the really small ones.

The motor controller box is positioned under the main tube of the bike, and it feels safe there because of the metal chainring guide and skit plate below. I was told that the controller box is aluminum alloy vs. plastic, and that makes it extra tough. Mounting this box separately from the battery pack helps to keep the battery replacement prices lower and reduces heat transfer, which can be hard on lithium-ion cells. Store your battery packs in a cool dry location, and avoid letting them drain completely, because that can stress the cell chemistry.

I noticed that the optional passenger pegs didn’t rattle or twist during use, they mount to a welded plate section with ridges that prevent spinning during use. The pegs fold up nicely, which reduces the possibility of scratching objects or people as you move the bike around. Note that the passenger kit comes with a clear plastic skirt guard for safety, and Rad now has a new passenger handhold bar kit.

It’s cool that Rad Power Bikes has expanded to Canada and Europe with this model, it’s one of their more affordable bikes but I love that they didn’t go with the low capacity battery (like the RadMission has). It would be great for commuting, taking to Burning Man, or sharing with a family of different sized users because it’s just so approachable and flexible.

For US and Canadian customers, the bike comes with a twist throttle that overrides assist 0-5 with full support. You don’t have to press any buttons to get power. This makes it a Class 2 ebike, even though you could remove the throttle to get Class 1 performance. In Canada, there is an on/off toggle switch that disables the throttle very easily. For European markets, they created “twist power assist” that changes the throttle into an override mechanism for adding power during pedal assist (as long as you’re still pedaling). This allows them to comply with Class 1 in Europe, but empower riders to add power without pressing lots of buttons or looking down! I think it’s pretty smart, and very satisfying to use.

Area 13 (Formerly Bolton e-Bikes) sent me their Radpower Upgrade Kit to use on my Radrover and review. It’s supposed to give the bike more power, give a nicer display, and allow a lot more customization. With a price of $229, readers who own a compatible Rad Power Bikes model are probably wondering, “Is it worth it?” After installing it myself on my 2020 Radrover ST (the Step Through model), I can say that it’s definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

The kit itself is pretty simple: there’s a computer/motor controller unit with a bunch of wires hanging out one end, and there’s a replacement display and buttons for the handlebars.

The computer/controller is a lot wider than the stock Radrover computer, comes in a metal case, and has heat sinks on three sides of the box. Why? Because it’s designed to handle double the power the stock computer can, both sustained and for bursts. With the stock motor, you’re not going to use double the power, but its ability to sustain more power helps it handle hills and other issues. It also puts out the full rated power for the motor instead of a little less.

The screen is a full-color display that works pretty similarly to the stock display, but much more aesthetically pleasing when in operation. For the 90s kids reading, it’s kind of like switching from the Game Boy to the Game Gear (from black and green to color). But, if you RTFM (read the friggin’ manual), it allows a TON of customization options that you don’t normally get with a stock e-bike. You can change how the power assist works, add cruise control, and most importantly be prepared if you want to make future upgrades to the bike.

The ability to upgrade further is probably the main benefit to the RadPower Upgrade Kit, but I’m not going to review that aspect of it today. I do look forward to installing a 52-volt battery pack and upgrading the stock motor at some point.

The installation was pretty straightforward. I took the battery mounting rail off of the bike’s frame, turned a few screws to release the stock computer/controller, unplugged it, and then plugged the new computer in. This required cutting some zip ties and putting new ones on, so be sure to have some on hand.

Installing the wider unit was a little more complicated, but not by much. I originally was going to put this unit on a non-step-through Radrover, but decided to put it on the ST model, so I had to modify one of the mounts and use longer screws to get around the frame in one spot. If I had more patience and fewer spare screws in my toolbox, I probably would have just bought some longer screws and would have had no need to expand the holes on the mount a tiny bit. Either way, it’s no big deal.

With the unit mounted, I hooked everything back up, tucked the cables back away, and zip-tied them back in their original positions. The only thing that was a little different was that the cable for the brake light didn’t come out of the top of the computer like the stock one, but it was plenty long enough to reach and power the brake light.

Installing the screen was even easier. I just removed the stock display and buttons with three screws, pulled them off, unplugged one plug, and then did the reverse to install the new one. I accidentally installed the display upside down at first (it had no markings), but that was easy to fix. I then was able to follow the instructions and program the unit to work with my bike and motor.

One other small thing: it initially read a full battery as empty, but as the manual explains, it sometimes has to calibrate itself to know what’s full and what’s empty. Batteries come in different voltages, and the computer can handle multiple voltages. After just a few seconds of riding, it registered the battery as full and worked right.

First off, it did noticeably increase the bike’s power. It accelerates faster from a dead stop, gets up to 25 MPH in less time, and the throttle is far more responsive. It’s far better at sustaining power to the motor on hills and pulling through sandy patches than it ever was with the stock computer. These things alone make it worth the money.

The display is also a really neat feature. It’s not only prettier, but it’s far easier to see your settings at a glance in mixed light settings, like a cloudy day or twilight. It was sufficiently backlit to be seen in the daylight or at night. It’s kind of a silly thing, but the color display really makes the bike feel a lot more modern. It’s not smartphone great, but it’s far better than the display it came with.

On the second test ride, my wife (the primary rider of this bike) figured out pretty quickly that the pedal assist was just a little too aggressive for her when taking the dog along with a bike tow leash. Using the manual and a video that gave detailed explanations, we stopped at a picnic table at a park and quickly lowered the C14 setting (the one for pedal assist power) from 2 to 1. The 1 setting was perfect for her, and we rode on. The maximum power of level 5 assist and the throttle’s new higher power was unaffected by this settings change.

I think this is a worthwhile upgrade for most Rad Power Bikes models. Not only does it give you more power, but it sets you up for a lot more customization and upgrade options in the future. Being able to go with a more powerful drop-in motor and a bigger battery pack in the future is nice, but just the difference in responsiveness and customizability we already got is enough.