skr 1.3 lcd displays in stock

Update : someone with the same setup than me ( SKR 1.3 + Ender 2) sent me a firmware.bin file and the screen works! The first time i put his firmware it didn"t work and after going through the pdf guide it says one has to press the red button and wait 10sc for the changes to takes effect, and after waiting it worked.

Then when I compile I get a lot of warnings from Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768/pins_BIGTREE_SKR_V1.3.h which i guess means that"s where he defined the right pins for the ENDER2_DISPLAY?

Then when I compile I get a lot of warnings from Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768/pins_BIGTREE_SKR_V1.3.h which i guess means that"s where he defined the right pins for the ENDER2_DISPLAY?

I had problem with error marlin #error "Please select no more than one LCD controller option." during compilation comes from SanityCheck.h. I found a solution here https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5545 and I disabled SanityCheck.h at

About your issue with preheating, I have to check with my printer. I use fresh version of Marlin-bugfix-2.0.x and I have SKR MINI E3 DIP v1.0. What I noticed heating up is slightly slower then on original Melzi board.

About your issue with preheating, I have to check with my printer. I use fresh version of Marlin-bugfix-2.0.x and I have SKR MINI E3 DIP v1.0. What I noticed heating up is slightly slower then on original Melzi board.

Regarding the 2 display error, just uncomment one of the displays so you"re only keeping one display marked as active. Right? Or is it something different. I haven"t looked at the link given with your explanation. Thank you for the info by the way. My biggest issue is still the fact my hotend and bed heat up when I try to preheat the bed only.

On Fri, Nov 1, 2019, 15:21 Grrby @.***> wrote: Hi, After planing around, my Ender2 display works with SKR MINI E3. I just copy solution from SKR 1.3 board and assigned proper stm32 pins. So I added ENDER2_DISPLAY to Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768/pins_BIGTREE_SKR_E3_DIP.h #if HAS_SPI_LCD #define BEEPER_PIN PA15 #define BTN_ENC PB6 #if ENABLED(CR10_STOCKDISPLAY) #define LCD_PINS_RS PB8 #define BTN_EN1 PA9 #define BTN_EN2 PA10 #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE PB7 #define LCD_PINS_D4 PB9 //#else //#error "Only CR10_STOCKDISPLAY is currently supported on the BIGTREE_SKR_E3_DIP." #endif ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// #if ENABLED(ENDER2_DISPLAY) #define BTN_EN1 PA9 #define BTN_EN2 PA10 #define DOGLCD_CS PB8 #define DOGLCD_A0 PB9 #define DOGLCD_SCK PA15 #define DOGLCD_MOSI PB7 #define FORCE_SOFT_SPI #define LCD_BACKLIGHT_PIN -1 #endif //#endif //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// #endif // HAS_SPI_LCD I had problem with error marlin #error "Please select no more than one LCD controller option." during compilation comes from SanityCheck.h. I found a solution here #5545 http://url and I disabled SanityCheck.h at #if COUNT_LCD_24 > 1 #error "Please select no more than one LCD controller option." #endif Maybe someone will find better and more elegant solution. — You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#15624?email_source=notifications&email_token=AA5O2XQJKJFCBLOGO264CDTQRQ3PDA5CNFSM4JDIIYR2YY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEC3BWVQ#issuecomment-548805462>, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AA5O2XQ5L7JAOTCMGFLXR4DQRQ3PDANCNFSM4JDIIYRQ .

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I have STM32F103RE as well but I compiled for STM32F103RC, so it"s not enough room for full option like mesh bedleveling. I"ll try to change to RE version.

Micro SD is an nightmare. I have original encloser on my Ender2 and SKR board is bit shorter then Melzi, so now I need tweezers to remove SD. I"m going to cutout a base for better access.

Thanks @TheAssassin for the PR! I bought an SKR Mini E3 v1.2 for my Ender 2, and been struggling with the display, and the comments here helped me to get things kinda going, and now I hope that the glitches will go away.

Thanks @TheAssassin for the PR! I bought an SKR Mini E3 v1.2 for my Ender 2, and been struggling with the display, and the comments here helped me to get things kinda going, and now I hope that the glitches will go away.

@brenca Your fix got my Ender 2 display working on the SKR MINI E3 V1.2. Nice fix. I now have MKS_MINI_12864 enabled and Brenca fix was to add #define BTN_ENC PB6 and make sure BOGLCD_SCK is PB5.

Is this also fixing the initial issue? Because the issue is for SKR 1.3 which uses LPC1768 environment, whereas the SKR MINI 1.3 uses STM32. If there is pins to change it should be in Marlin/Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768/pins_BTT_SKR_V1_3.h . I don"t know how to check if this file has been corrected, I am a github beginner. Thanks for the huge help so far everyone.

In this video, I am showing you how to connect Bigtreetech TFT35 touch displays to your SKR 1.3 or 1.4 mainboard, why it has two different modes to use it and what to configure in Marlin 2.0 for it.

The second mode is the "Marlin" or 12864 simulation mode, which will show the original printer menu from the Marlin firmware running on the SKR mainboard.

So from the mainboard documentation, I know that the reset pin for the SKR 1.3 is the most right pin, so I will orient my cable connectors accordingly and plug them in with the reset pin on the most right pin and the other four go left to it.

Now, I am building and uploading this new firmware for the SKR mainboard with Auto Build Marlin and if you"ve missed my full guide how to do this, I"ve linked that particular video up here for you.

I have an Ender 3 Pro with an Skr1.3 and TMC2209s fitted, which is almost silent, so I decided to go this route on the E5+. I did not, however, want to replace the stock screen. I only really need the screen for being able to stop a print, or to move the axis – I print from Octoprint so have no need of a BTT TFT3.5 V3 screen etc (although I DO have one on the Ender 3)

Remove the board, and mount the adapter plate you printed earlier, then attach the SKR1.3 to the mounting plate. (You may at this point find it easier to connect the blue USB cable and sdcard extender before mounting as space is tight!) Note, when mounting the end-stop plugs in the SKR you will need to carefully cut off one of the lugs so it can fit. Looking at the diagram above, they connect to the two rightmost pins in the relevant sockets.

#define MachineEnder5Plus#define BedDC#define ABL_BLTOUCH#define ABL_BI#define MelziHostOnly // Enable this to turn off local SD support and instead prioritize options for Octoprint or USB#define SKR13 // 32 bit board - assumes 2208 drivers#define SKR_2209

#define DualZ // Uses 5th driver on CRX or SKR boards as Z2#define MeshStd#elif ANY(MachineCR10Orig, SKR13, SKR14, SKR14Turbo) && DISABLED(SKR13_ReverseSteppers)

Cycle the power, and you should now have a working screen, with Marlin 2.0 on your SKR, running 2209s in UART mode (No need to set VREFS) and enjoy the silence!

Now BigTreeTech has launched a new revision of these electronics, whose name is BTT SKR 2, to try to replicate the success of its previous version with powerful hardware and some very interesting news.

As we have previously mentioned, the SKR 2 is an evolution of the old SKR 1.4 introducing a large number of improvements and updates. Let’s go into detail below.

MCU, while its sisters SKR 1.3/1.4 mounted MCUs LPC176* the SKR 2 has improved this aspect including an ARM Cortex-M4 STM32F407VGT6 MCU at 168 Mhz that will give extra power to our printer.

MOSFETS, a very important part of our boards are the MOSFETS in charge of managing our bed and hotend as well as the fans. In the SKR 2 these have been improved using a HYG090N06LS1C2 in addition to additionally including a G045P03 that serves to protect the plate against possible thermal leaks.

WiFi, although its sisters already had a connector for the WiFi connection, in the new SKR 2 electronics it has been improved and made compatible with ESP12S or ESP07 modules. Especially for later use with RepRap Firmware.

Drivers, without a doubt one of the big changes in this revision on the old SKR 1.3/1.4 electronics is how the drivers interact with the rest of the electronics by including protections.

This unfortunately was eliminated in SKR 1.4 and forced us to “mutilate” our drivers in the case of axes other than X, Y or in the case of not using Sensorless, about which you can find more information in our

The first SKR 2 units called REV A had a design/component problem that precisely caused the failures that it was intended to solve in the TMC drivers.

This error was quickly fixed and all SKR 2 electronics for sale are REV B version (with the new component corrected). In the following BigTreeTechoffers three solutions that go from the refund of the price to the replacement of the affected components. You can find information about it in this other link:

Another important value of the previous values is that of CURRENTwhere we will adjust the current of our motors. You can also adjust them from the LCD from Settings/Advanced/TMC along with other options that we will explain below.

First check for our SKR 2 should be to review the power selection jumper, if you have incorrectly could create some functional issuesWe will useposition 1 (VDD) on normal printer usage powered by printer PSU (12/24v)

As always, we hope that the article has been useful for the configuration of these new electronic BigTreeTech SKR 2. You can leave your comments or doubts at the end of it.

The SKR 1.3 upgrade for the Sidewinder X1 is a big improvement over the stock configuration. It updates the printers’ capabilities to 32 bit, makes it a bit quieter and allows for easier firmware upgrades.

I previously reviewed the Sidewinder X1 and it’s a good machine in its stock configuration. For most users, this upgrade might not be necessary. But for enthusiasts that like to tinker with their printer and get the best performance out of their printer, the SKR 1.3 upgrade for Sidewinder X1 will be a nice improvement.

The main reason to install SKR 1.3 upgrade for Sidewinder X1 is the added processing power given by the newer and more powerful 32 bit processor used in the SKR 1.3.

Besides the faster processor, you also get easier firmware upgrades. On the SKR 1.3 you just need to insert the Micro SD card and reboot the printer for a firmware upgrade. You won’t be limited by the screen interfering with the flashing process like on the stock configuration.

Read the full guide carefully and do the SKR 1.3 upgrade for the Sidewinder X1 only after you properly understood all the steps involved. If you have questions before starting, leave a comment and wait for a reply.

When you receive your SKR 1.3, the board will have a lot of jumpers installed on the board. You need to remove all the jumpers under the drivers, and only keep the UART jumpers.

6. Carefully mount the SKR 1.3 board on the bracket making sure you don’t tighten the screws too much. This can strip the plastic and render the mount useless.

Now that we have the board installed, we need to flash the correct firmware for our configuration. I did the heavy lifting and I compiled the latest Marlin 2.0.x firmware for the SKR 1.3 on Sidewinder X1. There are two versions available, for TMC2208 and TMC2209.

With the SKR 1.3 I am using the custom screen firmware ported from the TFT3.5 screen made by BIGTREETECH. I covered the install process, pro’s and con’s in my previous article: Custom Screen Firmware for Sidewinder X1 and Genius. This firmware is still under testing and it is not recommended for production use.But if you are fine with a few bugs, you can install it following the guide.

Since Ender 3 V2 & Ender 3 S1 are using the same knob LCD screen, they have slight different pin out compared with the LCD12864 or BTT TFT Screen. SKR Mini E3 V2/V3 are viable drop-in replacements for Creality 4.2.X boards as they are equip with TMC2209 in UART, Linear Advance and many more extra ports & features. Making it the best alternative to buying a new board from Creality.

Note: Due to varying Board/LCD/Cable Header direction if the LCD does not light then rotate the plug end at ONE END (LCD side or board side) 180 degrees and plug it into the header. Do this for both EXP1 and EXP2 if the LCD does not light.