replacing macbook lcd panel made in china

C) Buy a used MacBook (perhaps you could find one with broken electronics, or a bad keyboard or inoperative logic board) and take your chances that its screen will be good;

b) You blew the backlight fuse. Check it, if blown, solder on a new one. WIll put up a video on how to replace a backlight fuse & spot it on a Macbook air shortly, but do check other videos for how to do QFN/other motherboard microsoldering.

Yeah they"re expensive as !@#$ and going down in price. I"m a more expensive vendor and I have them for $110, eventually they"ll be $40-$70 just like the 11.6" Macbook Air.

The case is that i have a macbook pro 13 with touchbar 2017 with the famous screen problems. Is the second time that i have problems with the screen. My first case was that i broke the lcd. In this time, after read a lot cases in the forum, i think the problem is that t-con board is cooked. I can see a lot of horizontal green and pink lines.

Screen Replacement for MacBook Pro A2338 M1 2020 EMC3578 MYD83LL/A MYD92LL/A 13.3" 2880x1800 LCD Display Screen Complete Topfull Assembly w/Cover(Space Gray)Part Number: EMC3578

Screen Replacement for HP Envy X360 15M-DS 15M-DS0011DX 15M-DS0012D 15M-DS0023DX L53868-001 15.6" FHD LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly w/ Touch Control Board + BezelPart Number: L53868-001

Screen Replacement for MacBook Pro A1706 A1708 Late 2016 Mid 2017 661-07970 661-05323 13.3" LED LCD Display Screen Complete Top Full Assembly w/Cover (Space Gray)Part Number: 661-07970 661-05323

Screen Replacement for MacBook Air A2337 M1 2020 EMC3598 13.3" 2560x1600 LCD Display Screen Complete Topfull Assembly w/Cover(Rose Gold)Part Number: EMC3598

Screen Replacement for MacBook Pro A1708 Late 2016 Mid 2017 EMC2978 EMC3164 13.3" LED LCD Display Screen Complete Top Full Assembly w/Cover(Space Gray)Part Number: 661-07970 661-05323 661-05095 661-05096

Screen Replacement for MacBook Air A1466 2013 2014 2015 2017 661-02397 13.3" LED LCD Display Screen Complete Top Full Assembly w/CoverPart Number: 661-02397

Screen Replacement for MacBook Pro A2338 M1 2020 EMC3578 MYDA2LL/A MYDC2LL/A 13.3" 2880x1800 LCD Display Screen Complete Topfull Assembly w/Cover(Space Gray)Part Number: EMC3578

Screen Replacement for MacBook Air A1466 2017 EMC3178 MQD32LL MQD42LL Z0UU1LL 13.3" LED LCD Display Screen Complete Top Full Assembly w/CoverPart Number: 661-7475 ,661-02397

Screen Replacement for HP ENVY X360 15M-EE 15-EE 15M-EE0013DX 15M-EE0023DX 15-EE1010NR L93181-001 15.6” 1920x1080 LED LCD Display Touch Screen w/Black BezelPart Number: L93181-001

Screen Replacement for HP Envy X360 15T-DR 15T-DR000 15T-DR100 15.6" FHD LED LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly w/ Touch Control Board + BezelPart Number: L53545-001, L64480-001

Screen Replacement for Lenovo Ideapad 3 15IML05 81WR 81WR0007US 81WR000BUS 81WR000FUS 81WR000GUS 81WR000AUS 15.6” 1366x768 LED LCD Display Touch ScreenCompatible Manufacturer: HP

Screen Replacement for MacBook Air A1932 2018 EMC3184 MRE82LL/A 13.3" Retina LCD Display Screen Complete Top Full Assembly w/Cover(Space Gray)Part Number: EMC3184

Screen Replacement for Lenovo IdeaPad Flex 5-14ARE05 5-14IIL05 5-14ITL05 5-14ALC05 81X1 81X2 81WS 82HS 82HU 5D10S39642 5D10S39641 14" 1920x1080 LED LCD Display Touch Screen w/BezelPart Number: 5D10S39642 5D10S39641

Screen Replacement for HP Envy X360 15M-BP 15-BP 15M-BP011DX 15M-BP111DX 15M-BP112DX 15M-BP012DX 15.6" FHD LED LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly w/ Touch Control Board + BezelPart Number: 925736-001

Screen Replacement for HP Pavilion 15-EG 15-EG0050WM 15-EG0070WM 15-EG0069NR 15-EG0072NR 15-EG0079NR 15-EG0056NR 15-EG0074NR M16342-001 LED LCD Display Touch Screen 15.6" 1920x1080Part Number: M16342-001

Screen Replacement for Lenovo ideapad 3 15IIL05 81WE 81WE006KUS 81WE00KVUS 81WE00NKUS 81WE000DUS 81WE000EUS 81WE0045US 15.6” 1366x768 LED LCD Display Touch ScreenCompatible Manufacturer: HP

“Original” screens are those containing LCDs manufactured for Apple. “Copy” screens are compatible replacements entirely designed and manufactured by third-party companies not associated with Apple.

LCD display panel can have poorer resolution (i.e. looks “coarser”), worse brightness, contrast and vibrancy and reduced refresh rate amongst other problems.

Originals are those screens containing LCDs that were manufactured for Apple. So-called “copy” screens are compatible replacements, but designed and manufactured entirely independently by third-party companies, typically in China.

One of the most important differences between an original and a “copy” screen is how the digitizer (touch sensor) is designed. Apple has it manufactured as part of the LCD itself, whereas the copies have it on the glass.

Although there are only a small number of manufacturers of the bare LCDs themselves, these are then bought by countless other companies who add the remaining components needed to turn these into a complete working screen. As a result, you could easily end up with an LCD from the best “copy” manufacturer, but the digitizer/touch (as part of the separately-manufactured glass) from the worst.

There are countless digitizers out there, and you can only take the supplier’s word that the quality is good. Many ship good ones at first, then switch to cheaper parts to make more profit. This is particularly bad with the iPhone 6S and 6S+, since Apple moved the chips responsible for touch processing onto the LCD itself. As a result, you’re not just getting a copy screen- you’re getting copy chips too.

We’ve seen many lift away from the frame that holds them in place. This usually results in the flex cable getting torn, and the screen needing replacing. You don’t even need to have dropped the phone- this often happens through general everyday wear and tear.

That brings us to another major issue with the copies. When you drop an Apple original, the glass often breaks, but if the LCD itself is intact, you can continue to use it until it’s fixed. With the copies, the touch/digitizer is on the glass and stops working when that’s broken. Even worse, the LCD itself is more likely to break due to the thinner and more fragile glass.

The 2010-2017 MacBook Air was a popular model while it was in production. The lightweight, long battery life, and affordable price point made them a great buy for a large group of people. This model is aging quite well and has very few issues. They continue to be a very usable computer, especially for people who don’t need a lot of power to meet their computing needs.

I have an article with all the common issues I see on this particular model MacBook Air if you want to learn more about the machine. See my A1466 MacBook Air common issues page for detailed information on what may happen as your computer ages.

One of the issues these MacBook Airs do have is a fragile display. The LCD panel is more easily cracked than other models of Macs, and the repair options are more difficult due to the design of the screen. The light design is partly to blame, as well as the thin design of the display assembly itself.

The cost of repairing common MacBook Air issues is generally very affordable, especially as the computer ages. For screen repairs, the cost of a professional repairis quite affordable.

When it comes to the A1466 MacBook Air, you have two options for screen repair. You can either replace just the cracked LCD (as long as the display assembly is still in good shape), or you can replace the entire display assembly.

Replacing the entire display assembly is what Apple offers at the Apple Store, as it is a much easier method than replacing the LCD panel only. Replacing the LCD panel only is a difficult procedure that requires a lot of skill and patience. Usually replacing the display assembly is faster, but not always.

I will cover both methods of MacBook Air screen repair in this article. I will start with the easier and more expensive display assembly replacement, then move on to the more difficult, but cheaper, LCD-only repair. But first, we will go over some reasons you may choose one type of repair over another.

There are a few reasons you might need to replace the entire display assembly rather than just the LCD panel. I have an article I wrote about the types of damage done to a MacBook that would make the screen need repair, but the two main issues are liquid damage and dents.

Basically, if the display assembly is damaged to a point where it should be replaced, then replacing the entire display assembly is going to be the best way forward. The display assembly includes the LCD panel, back housing, bezel, iSight, hinges, and more.

If there is liquid damage that caused the screen to not work properly, it is very likely that the components inside the display assembly are damaged which is best to repair by replacing the entire display assembly. If there are major dents or a bend to the display housing, then a new LCD panel will likely not fit nicely into the original display assembly.

It is very rare to have to replace the display assembly. Over 95% of the people who contact me looking for a MacBook Air screen repair just require an LCD replacement.

LCD panel replacement is by far the most common type of service that is necessary for a MacBook Air screen repair. Generally, the LCD panel is cracked or broken in some way, and by replacing the LCD panel we are able to fix the computer completely.

There are many ways that the LCD panel in a MacBook Air can fail, but the most common is cracking or bending to the point of cracking. The bending on this model can even come from something as simple as opening and closing the computer from the corner of the display instead of the center.

While LCD replacement on a 2010-2017 MacBook Air is a much more difficult job than replacing the display assembly, it does save you a lot of money to perform this repair. Due to the difficulty in completing this repair, I do recommend you utilize a good repair shop to complete it for you.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the display assembly for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out for how to tell what years are compatible with which display assemblies, places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome, and more.

Apple uses odd screws on their MacBook Air line (and most of their laptops created after 2011). These more specialty screws require more specialty screwdrivers that you are not likely to have laying around the house. The tools needed for the display assembly replacement are:

Once the screws are removed, you can lift the bottom cover off the MacBook Air as shown in the picture below. Simply grasp the bottom cover from right behind where the two long screws came out, and lift it towards yourself. There are a few plastic tabs holding the cover in place, so it does take some force to remove the bottom cover.

As you probably noticed above, 2010, 2011, and 2012 models of the MacBook Air have the iSight cable connected to the IO board that you just removed. If you have one of the 2013, 2014, 2015, or 2017 models, you will remove the iSight cable from the logic board.

If there are any issues with the tests above, you can refer to my troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air. I cover common repair issues and how to fix them in depth.

Congratulations on completing the display repair on your MacBook Air! Let me know how it went, and if my instructions helped you enough that you want to show your gratitude with remuneration, I would love it if you bought me a donut!

Finding a new LCD panel to replace your cracked or failed LCD can be difficult. There are sellers on eBay and Amazon that source LCD panels that are grade B or have visual defects, then when you install it into your computer and notice the issue (after hours of work) they say you caused the damage. For this reason, it is best to go with a reputable repair shop to source the part.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the LCD panel for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out to find places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome and more.

The same tools are used to disassemble the MacBook Air as with the display assembly repair, but for LCD replacement you will also need a couple of additional tools and some special adhesive. The tools needed for the LCD panel replacement are:

Be sure to set aside plenty of time for this repair. I recommend splitting it into two parts. You start with the display replacement guide above to get the display off the computer, then rest and do something fun for a few hours, then come back to this guide to replace the LCD panel on your display. Overall I recommend setting aside an entire day for this repair.

It is much easier to do this repair with the display assembly removed from the computer. My display replacement guide above will get you through to having the display separate from the computer, then you move on to the process of removing the LCD panel itself from the display assembly.

The bezel is the silver strip that surrounds the screen on these A1466 MacBook Airs. Note that the bezel is held in place by a very strong adhesive, so the goal here is to heat up the adhesive to make removing the bezel easier.

In my experience, a temperature of around 300 degrees with a small air nozzle works really well. Keep the nozzle close to the center of the bezel and work your way around using movements as shown in the video. It is important to not let the heat stay in one area too long. You want to take care not to melt the rubber gasket that surrounds the screen and also to not cause damage to the backlight sheets that are just under the LCD panel.

You run the knife under the bezel starting at the bottom right corner of the screen. Work your way up and around until you have cut the adhesive between the bezel and the LCD panel all the way around the screen. Take extra care around the iSight camera. Just to the left of the iSight camera is the iSight camera board which is easily damaged during this process. Also, take extra care at the bottom left of the screen, this is where the iSight cable is easily nicked during the process.

There are 5 screws along the bottom of the LCD panel that are covered in little black pieces of tape. Use your tweezers to remove those pieces of tape, and then remove the screws. There are also two black screws holding down the inverter board at the bottom of the LCD. These two screws also get removed.

This is another part of the repair where you need to relax and take your time. Use the hot air and small nozzle to heat up the right-hand side of the LCD, right where it connects to the edge of the display assembly. There is a 2mm piece of double-sided tape under this area that is holding the LCD down.

I like to angle the hot air towards the edge of the screen and move it along pretty quickly, in order to keep the backlight sheets directly under the LCD from getting damaged.

Once the edge is warmed up, use your painting knife to slide under the screw post on the farthest right side of the display. This will lift the display just a little and cause upward pressure on the LCD panel. Keep heating the edge of the LCD panel until you see it start to lift a little, then work just the edge of a business card into the gab, and slowly move the business card up to separate the LCD from the housing.

This part of the repair takes a while, you want to work in sections, so heat up the tape holding down the LCD panel, then move the card a little bit up, then heat up the next area, and move the card up a little more. The better you do this part the easier the rest of the repair will be, so take your time.

The left-hand side of the LCD panel is held down by a larger piece of adhesive, this makes it quite a bit more difficult to use the business card method. For this part of the project, you will first heat the left side of the LCD where the adhesive is, then apply upward pressure by lifting on the right-hand side of the LCD panel.

Lift the right-hand side of the LCD panel very, very, very slowly while continually moving your heat up and down the left side of the LCD. This will allow the LCD to pull free of the tape, or the tape to pull free of the housing.

Now that the LCD panel is removed, you can see the piece of metal along the bottom that the screws were screwed into. This piece of metal needs to be moved back into the display assembly so it is ready for your new LCD panel to be installed.

Heat up the metal as it is attached with the same tape as the LCD panel was attached with, then use your painting knife to get between the metal and the LCD. This is usually pretty easy after just completing the more difficult LCD removal process.

This is where your 1mm tape comes into play! You want to replace any of the black tape that was damaged or removed during the process so far so you can install the new LCD and have adhesive around the whole thing.

I like to start by replacing any tape that was removed from the metal piece that sits below the LCD panel at the bottom of the assembly, then carefully put that metal piece back into the housing and screw it in as shown in the pictures. Note that the adhesive you just put in faces up towards you.

First, you want to use your can of compressed air to carefully blow any dust from the backlight sheets before installing the new LCD. Take care to not let those sheets get moved around in the process. They need to sit exactly where they are.

Remove any backing from the adhesive that you installed, and also remove the backing from the LCD panel. You can leave the plastic on the front of the LCD panel, but be sure you remove it from the back before installing.

Then you want to line up the circles on the top right and left of the display with the cross hairs on the LCD panel. Once those are lined up you can slowly sink the LCD into the housing, then gently run your finger around the whole LCD panel along the edge to make sure the adhesive is attached to the LCD panel as well as the back housing.

Apply the 12mm tape all around the LCD assembly. Note you want 1-2mm of the tape to cover the LCD panel to help keep it in place. Cut a small piece of the 12mm tape to go above the sight camera. Be sure to leave the area to the left of the camera open where the light sensor is located. The pictures show how it should look when you have completed the work.

Remove all the backing from the tape and install the bezel. I like to start by lining up the top right and left of the bezel, then letting it drop in just like I did with the LCD panel. Gently push on the LCD around the edges to make sure the adhesive is sealed.

Now that the repair is done it is time to test your MacBook Air. There are a few things that the display assembly does that you want to be sure to test.

If there are any issues with the tests above, you can refer to my troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air. I cover common repair issues and how to fix them in depth.

Congratulations on completing the display repair on your MacBook Air! Let me know how it went, and if my instructions helped you enough that you want to show your gratitude with remuneration, I would love it if you bought me a donut!

I would love to help you get your MacBook Air back up and running properly. If you would like me to repair anything on your computer, you can either go through filling out the order form for a MacBook Air repair, or you can use my quick quote form to get a quote on the project you would like to have done.

Looking for wholesale macbook screen replacement? Look no further than Alibaba.com, one of the largest collections of wholesale shipment suppliers in the world. We have a huge range of lcd computer monitor options and lcd display screen options to choose from. Whether you need a small lcd screen or a large one, we have you covered.

These macbook screen replacement products have become the go to display types for computers today. With tft color monitors slowly being phased out, lcd computer monitor displays are the standard in the industry. All customers need a flat screen computer monitor to interact with their personal computers. For ardent gamers that require high refresh rates to minimize lagging and make use of high performance computers there are a range of lcd gaming monitors available.

We also have more specialised products like rack mounted monitors for IT administrators and network administrators working in commercial settings. These monitors are used to oversee large server rooms and network infrastructure. New transparent lcd screen options are also coming on the market that are futuristic and allow for a sleek look to fit modern aesthetics.

So, start ordering your shipment of macbook screen replacement today from our suppliers. They are ready and willing to answer any questions you may have about their products and get you started today!

Li Dongsheng, the chairman of CSOT parent company TCL, is expected to soon visit Apple Park in Cupertino. According to The Elec, that meeting is aimed at winning supply orders for LCD panels.

The company"s plan to expand will put it in direct competition with other Apple suppliers, including both BOE and LG Display. The latter of those two companies is the supply chain leader for Apple devices like MacBook Pro models.

People had a lot of questions when I pulled out my M1 MacBook Air at a party over the weekend: “What is that?” “What happened to your laptop?” “Is that the new Mac?” This was to be expected, as there certainly was something different about mine. See, my MacBook Air doesn’t have a screen — and I made it that way.

You could also lose access to Wi-Fi on certain older MacBook Pro models from 2008–2010 because the AirPort card and antennas were embedded in the display hinge. Thankfully, many of those models still have built-in Ethernet jacks from the era before Apple started taking away ports. (Ports are back, BTW.)

If you have a MacBook, you know, just sitting around, chillin’, happy as a clam...shell... you could make your own slabtop! Or you could be me and volunteer your cousin’s 2009 15-inch MacBook Pro while they aren’t around to supervise it.

But if your cousin isn’t as forgiving as mine, perhaps the eBay route is your best bet. I found recently sold listings for broken Touch Bar MacBook Pros going for around $400, either because they had cracked screens or a problem with the flexible display ribbon cables. But, hey, who needs flex cables anyway when we’re dropping dead weight?

Before we get started, make sure you have a toolkit with all the needed screwdriver bits: a pentalobe P5 to open up most MacBooks made 2012 or later, a Phillips 00 to open up most MacBooks 2012 or earlier; either way, you’ll want a full Torx set sizes 3-8 for various internal parts. You might also want a tri-wing Y1 driver to remove many 2010–2012 MacBook batteries (to avoid accidentally turning on your MacBook while working) or, in the case of the 2009 MacBook Pro, a pentalobe P6. It’s also nice to have a nylon pry tool and tweezers to safely pluck connectors and collect screws, or you could just grow your nails out for a few days as a substitute.

You’ll also need to have a monitor or TV to use your slabtop and a means to physically connect them. If your Mac only has USB-C ports like my M1 MacBook Air, get a USB-C to HDMI cable or a USB-C hub / dock that has a video output. But if your Mac is a bit older like that 2009 MacBook Pro, you’ll need a cable that goes from mini DisplayPort to whatever your external monitor uses, such as HDMI, full DisplayPort, maybe even DVI.

While I took apart the computers using sheer instinct, I did find a very good M1 MacBook Air display removal guide at iFixit and another one for the 15-inch 2009 MacBook Pro. If you’re opening up a different MacBook or maybe even another laptop entirely (heck, you could make a Chromebox from a Chromebook if you wanted to), you should look for a guide online on how to take it apart — or be like me and don’t, that’s up to you! Please be advised: I take no responsibility for any damage or injury caused by your attempt.

2009 MacBook Pro: The fan started spinning because I accidentally turned the computer on during surgery. Don’t forget to disconnect the battery. Photo by Umar Shakir / The Verge

For the past decade’s worth of MacBooks, the first step is to open the bottom case. Flip the MacBook upside-down and remove all the bottom screws (as many as 10) with either the pentalobe or Phillips driver, depending on the model. Be sure to note where each screw goes since some are longer than others, and the wrong ones could cause damage.

You may still need to pry slightly before it opens — with my M1 MacBook Air and the 15-inch 2009 MacBook Pro, I just needed to grab the aluminum base at the back edge near the vents and pull — you’ll feel a couple snaps from clamps holding them together, but don’t worry, it comes off easily. Most other MacBook models released come apart the same way — except for one major anomaly in the 12-inch Retina MacBook. That model has its battery and logic board attached to the bottom case with sensitive ribbon cables connected between the slabs. For that, I would recommend following this guide closely to avoid damage to the cable or battery.

The second step is to disconnect the battery. I made the mistake of skipping this step on the 2009 MacBook Pro and accidentally turned it on during surgery — better on my cousin’s MacBook Pro and not my MacBook Air, am I right? Anyway, for the 2009 MacBook Pro, I removed three pentalobe screws (tri-wing for the next few model years up), lifted the battery halfway up with its handy pull tab, then disconnected the battery.

The 2011 MacBook Pro’s battery is much easier to disconnect; you don’t even need to take the battery out. Ditto the M1 MacBook Air’s battery: all it takes is a flip-up and pull of the metal locking handle of the battery connector. (See image above.)

The third step is to disconnect and remove anything that comes in the way of getting to the display hinge screws, including internal video connectors, antenna connectors, and — in the case of my M1 MacBook Air — even the antennas themselves. Don’t worry — after the display is removed, you can put the antenna back and still keep Wi-Fi connectivity for your slabtop, unlike my cousin’s machine. Removing all these parts can be tricky, so you might want to follow an online guide for your particular model.

Disconnecting the antenna cables in the M1 MacBook Air. Don’t worry — these will go back when we finish up so you can keep Wi-Fi. Photo by Umar Shakir / The Verge

The fourth step is to remove the display clamshell. For my M1 MacBook Air: with the display cable disconnected and the antennas out of the way, I pick up the laptop and open the clamshell toits widest point, maybe 130 degrees. I then place the laptop upside down with the keyboard slab fully on the desk’s top and the display clamshell hanging down and off the edge of the desk like a wing. Hold it so it doesn’t slide off the table while you perform the next steps!

By the way, that step is a bit easier on the 2009 MacBook Pro. I kept the display open at a 90-degree angle off the desk instead of fully opening it, removed the screws, and then lifted the display straight up and off without any pushing or sliding.

Did you succeed as well? If so, let’s go plug it in! You can connect it to a monitor or TV with the right cable, power it on, and you should get a picture on-screen in about the same amount of time it took on your built-in one — though, if it’s an M1 MacBook, you might not get a picture until it’s finished booting up. If the monitor gets to the login screen but only shows a wallpaper with nothing to click, it’s because the slabtop has phantom limb syndrome and thinks it should output to the primary built-in display, but you can hit Command + F1 to switch to mirror mode, which should then reveal the main screen. You can also now mirror your screen wirelessly to an AirPlay-compatible TV or streaming box. Once it appears on the TV, disconnect the cable and enjoy the freedom of a slabtop on your couch!

We started out building 2011 - 2012 13" MacBook A1278 screens and used up all the stocks of brand new aluminium lids in the UK. We then bought in bulk from the factories in China helping us keep all of our own and customers MacBooks looking brand new.

MacBook Air screens were our next accomplishment  which were alot more difficult as the Backlight and perspex diffuser are part of the backlid and difficult to transfer - we managed it and were able to transfer good LCDs from scratched/dented lids into brand new bare lids making the screen look new again.

We can also change the LCD Panels alone and even made our own LED Backlight tester which we used to spot any imperfections in the diffusers before permanently sealing in the LCD

The beauty of this is that we keep the original webcam, ALS (Light Sensor) and hinges which are often not working or poor quality on the replacement screen assemblies. There is also calibration routines that need running on T2 2018+ MacBooks which only Apple has access to which can cause issues. These are not required with an LCD Only swap as the original serial number and data is held in the camera board which is kept original.

If you have a 2016 model with the shorter LED Backlight cable, these are prone to a fault called "Flexgate". We are able to replace the LED Backlight cable for a longer version while the LCD Panel is removed.

On 2016+ MacBook Pro"s Apple has located the screen control board (TCON) inside the base of the MacBook. Great for making the screen thin but this puts the board in a vulnerable location and prone to liquid damage.

As Apple mainly relies on Samsung and LG to manufacture its OLED panels for the iPhone, another Chinese factory wants a piece of Cupertino’s company money. As reported by

CSOT, together with Apple, first review the OLED panel produced from its T4 factory at Wuhan, China, sources said. The factory is designed to house three phases for a total capacity of 45,000 substrates per month. Two phases are currently live.

As of now, the Chinese company had supplied OLED panels for Samsung’s Galaxy M models in 2021. CSOT will also supply OLED panels for Galaxy A73 this year, The Elecreports.

The publication notes that it won’t be an easy path for CSOT, as China’s largest display panel maker BOE had failed “multiple times in Cupertino’s evaluation processes before finally being able to supply OLED panels to the iPhone maker.”

As 9to5Mac reported earlier this week, BOE, which currently manufactures OLED panels for iPhone 12 and iPhone 13 – and will do the same for this year’s iPhone 14 – will try to supply displays for iPhone 15 Pro as well.

The company was caught having changed the circuit width of the thin film transistors on the OLED panels it made for iPhone 13 earlier this year, people familiar with the matter said.

The Chinese display panel sent a C-level executive and employees to Apple’s headquarters following the incident to explain why they changed the circuit width of the transistors.

They also asked the iPhone maker to approve the production of OLED panels for iPhone 14, but didn’t receive a clear response from Apple, they also said.

Cupertino seems poised to give the order for around 30 million OLED panels it intended to give BOE before the incident to Samsung Display and LG Display instead.