yamaha keyboard lcd screen not working in stock

Note: The manual is the correct one for your model. The Yamaha DGX-630 and YPG-635 are one and the same model, at least as far as the manual is concerned. Here’s an image from the 1st page of the manual.

The image shown in the link is for the LCD unit which is compatible with your model. The Yamaha part number is WN7448800 (see Parts List, Part #320) and the supplier linked above was only to show what it looked like and the cost. Also it shows that it is no longer available and you would need to contact either them or Yamaha for alternatives.

My screen went blank on both halves. I followed the instructions kindly provided by Zerald (see Nov. 20, 2017) A big thank you to him as it completely fixed the issue. I used a PowerFist soldering station from Princess Auto (Canada) set at 150 F (the minimum setting) to reset the glue. If you run the flat blade over the flex tape cable where it attaches to the circuit board before turning on the heat, you will feel the ridges in the flex cable. After turning on the heat to the soldering tip, I repeatedly passed over the flex tape where it joins the metal and the whole part behind where it is glued to the board (about 1/4 inch). Make sure to do both pieces of flex tape cable as each one is the data supply for either side of the screen. I powered it up after each successive try and saw the screen steadily improve from no image when I started to fully functional after three applications of heat and pressure. The final result was the flex tape cable had no ridges, the glue appears to be reset, and the screen is once again fully functioning. Other than purchasing the soldering station ($30.00 CDN) there was no other costs. I own two Yamaha guitars and two Yamaha keyboards but will never buy another Yamaha product due to their companies" lack of accountability to an obvious product flaw. I was quoted about $300.00 to have their local service company replace the screen! Appears it doesn"t need to be replaced.

What I did was undo all the necessary screws on the back to separate the control section from the keys. This gives you access to the display board and its two brown ribbon cables. pressing / rubbing them while the unit was turned on made a further mess of the screen and confirmed this was the problem.

SOLUTION);.. turn machine off INTERMITTENTLY 30 min on .... place a Makeba quartz crystal on the screen( with 4 small magnets on to top) on the portion of the screen that is blank;...in the middle of the screen if totally blank...leave on on overnight...repeat and vary. ..{ USE YOUr imagination)>... turning the machine on and off to check results..stop placing crystal when screen activates

I just found this page but I"ve had the same issue with mine for a few years. I"d love to know a solution. The keyboard plays but the screen is a mess. Half of it works. The other half does not.

It happened to my YPG-625 too. One day after turning it on I got half a screen. The problem was resolved by turning the keyboard off then turning the contrast knob all the way up (located on the front input panel). Then turning the keyboard back on and re-adjusting the contrast level. That got it back to display the full screen.

Hi, I have a big problem with my Yamaha ypg-635. I bought it in 2009 and I have not had any problems, now 2017 - 2018, when I return to my school and I tried to turn it on I can see that the control screen turns on completely but when I want to play the keys, I do not get any sound at all , I raise the volume and there is no sound. I tried with the headphones or with an amplifier and there is no sound either, but very soft in the background you hear a faint buzz soud.

The problem is in poor contact in-between LCD’s PCB and flex cables that comes to the LCD panel(two cables). It seems that Yamaha(or who manufactured this LCD assy – I do not know) uses some kind of anisotropic conductive film(instead of solder or connector) to connect those two flex cables to the PCB.

Then I just pressed (press hard but no too hard, film’s datasheet says ~18kg/cm2) and held for ~10 seconds by warm soldering tip on the flex’s pins over the places where they are glued to the PCB. The T12-D4 is wide enough to ‘re-glue’ 4..5 pins at one iteration, so, total process took 2…3 minutes (and 30…40 minutes to disassemble/assemble keyboard).

The contact point from the attached electronics on the glass support is defective. A repearatur is not possible. The glass is multi-layered. I suspect the defect in the glass carrier in it.

I have a Ypg-535 and seem to be having the same issue as everyone, but instead my screen is completely gone. I have only used the keyboard a total of about 8 hours in the past year, due to being busy with school work, and am wondering if this issue is possibly caused by underusage. I am wondering if there is any solution to this problem without having to buy a completely new keyboard.

Screen has been malfunctioning for years. Used to be just half gone. Now it"s fully gone. I"ve checked the contrast. My main question is will a 25$ 320 x 240 dots LCD display (backlit) not from yamaha work or do I have have to get the 113$ or more replacement screen specifically for yamaha? ctiwari2@ yahoo.com 812-361-8798

I am having a similar problem that seems to be epidemic, when adjusting the contract control the fixed half goes bad and the bad part goes good! There are replacement screens on aliexpress but man given the amount of people out there with this problem Yamaha should be held accountable.. very disappointing.

I have the same problem. However, I"m a total cheap skate and don"t want to part with $150 to buy a new screen. So, instead I attemtped to take the DGX620/YPG625 keyboard apart hoping I could get the display working without buying a new part.

Once I got the keyboard apart I pulled the screen out and plugged it back into the main board except now I had the screen facing me while the keyboard was open. Once the screen was facing me I plugged in the AC power. This way I was able to play around with the cables while seeing if the display problem got any better.

Results: I managed to find a sweet spot where the cable would recieve a good signal and the display problem disappeared completely. However, once all put back together and after playing the keys for a few minutes the display problem came back. Clearly a new LCD should not be necessary and I will attempt to take apart my keyboard again this time cleaning all display connections as well as the end of the display cable.

Over 100 screws to take this thing apart and an hour time to toy with it and put it back together. I hope this helps anyone else looking to repair without purchasing new parts. I will post again with the results of my second attempt, however, I may not try again for a few days.

many yamaha key boards have this issue very early after.so please give me a solution for this issue.also i like to propose to yamaha corporation if you can include vedio out jack for every arranger key boards its very helpfull.

i have a yamaha 625 ypg keyboard i opened it up to find that there is something on the contacts of the ribbon cable thats making the contacts not work because i test the cable with a multimeter and for some reason the contacts go bad !but can any body help me get a new ribbon cable my lcd screen works i just need to replace a cable .the one with the black flat peace on it! it seems to be the problem ! my name is greg swinney i can be reached at gswinney1@ yahoo.com thanks!!!!

Display should not malfunction - this is "main" info center for user. I"m a professional pianist and......... after 4 years display want half and half blank or gone.

This should be cover by Yamaha company, poor design and poor quality. 3 years ago - during performance - piano quit. After few hrs, piano works fine. After 4 months this same problem. Purchased new transformer, but didn"t help.

Just noticed it last night. I"ll work the fix but will probably heavily de-weight Yamaha for my next keyboard purchase given how common this issue is.

I have this same problem as many others with my YPG screen going half blank! This is totally unacceptable. I"ve had my Roland D-5 for 40+ years and the screen is still the same as it was when it was purchased. Yamaha should really do something about this. This screen is defective, bottom line!

Exact same problem! Just fixed it tonight with a new lcd. Attempted to clean all the connectors first with contact cleaner and q tips. No better. Should have tried replacing the horribly double-crimped ribbon cable, but didn"t want to go out again and have a show I need this for, so I just threw in the new LCD screen. 100 bucks and two weeks to ship but it works.

Yes, I agree JamieRI! I"m absolutely shore about this problem, and first just try to cleaning the contacts! My Yamaha DGX620 had the same problem but cleaning all contacts I fix it, and now the display is full, optimal working. :)

2) Clean flex tail contacts: If it has vertical streaks or half is blank, the LCD display is quite possibly good but contacts on the flex tail fingers are tarnished, producing poor contact at the connector. (I have not done this yet, so leave comments on your success)

I enjoyed my Yamaha piano but will never buy another one or recomend. The LCD screen only shows half screen. This seems to be a common problem. Very disappointed.

"However, I did find, when removing the old part, that the LCD main ribbon cable was folded (crimped) twice by the manufacturer to better align the wire with it"s connector on the main circuit board. I was told, in my training, never to crimp these wires.

However, I did find, when removing the old part, that the LCD main ribbon cable was folded (crimped) twice by the manufacturer to better align the wire with it"s connector on the main circuit board. I was told, in my training, never to crimp these wires.

I had purchased a Yamaha PSR I455 and it also has the display problem even after one month. I think the quality of the product is very low due to China manufacturing. Also they charge more on Indian customers. If you compare the same version in USA costs only 18K instead of 25.5K here in India.

I"m glad I made an exception to my normal policy of not purchasing optional warranties. With 4-year coverage I can take it to Best Buy and THEY can take off the 100+ screws.

I am so glad I came upon this site and saw the picture. It is the same problem that I am having right now with mine. I will not take it apart myself over the fear of it breaking the piano and the folk"s around here in my neck of the woods are not so helpful in fixing it for me. I was told to, "Get rid of it and buy a newer one." Yeah, I really wish money grew on tree"s too." So the story with mine as possible causes are: Has been moved around a bit, never dropped. Played everyday and in OHIO. Weather such as heat/cold could be a issue to any electronic device. So would Yamaha send a tech to my house for free to fix it or is this something that"s going to cost me?

I have a YPG-625. I suggest calling an authorized dealer is seeing how much they will charge you to replace you malfunctioning LCD with a new one. They get a bigger discount from Yamaha and it may actually be cheaper. If you want to do it yourself follow the below understanding I am not a qualified service tech just a do-it-yourselfer. There are a total of 114 screws (you will want to power screw driver fully charged) and 2 solder connections (you will need a soldering Iron and solder).

- DO NOT open the case unless you are aware of and comfortable with the fact that you could destroy your piano. You will need to solder 2 small connections (if you don"t know how to solder go to youtube).

5. Carefully lift up on the bottom part of the case just enough to remove the speaker wire connector so you can completely remove the bottom case. Take care not to damage the speaker lines

7. Remove ALL the ribbon cables (notice how they are oriented and where they go, you will need to replace these latter) except the main one (top right corner since flipped on face and you are looking from the Top of the piano).

11. Remove the Soldered power wires from the LCD. To do this, look at the connector on the board were this wire connects. The top part of this plastice white connector lifts up slightly (don"t pull to hard) then you can easily pull the wire out).

13. Solder this wire onto the NEW LCD. Make sure you connect the correct wire to + and the other to -. (See YouTube to solder correctly if you don"t know)

No. That is so thoroughly not going to happen it"s difficult to put into words. But I attempted to do so, in the strongly worded email I sent them. The phrase "You festering, inflamed, pus-encrusted necrotic piece of..." was in there. And worse. I wish I"d been there to see them run thatthrough Google translate.

I need to do the fix myself... But please know just how finicky this ACF process is! It is bonded by achieving a certain temperature measured in the adhesive, under a specific pressure for a specific duration of time. Worse, this is a conductive adhesive that must be frozen until used, and when frozen, is only properly able to be bonded for 12 months after manufacture. (this is not my opinion, see 3M specs below for details)

My respect! this is the truth, My repair lasted a few month and finally I changed the screen module to a new one, it"s cheap in aliexpress. I can see some improvement and so far so good, 3 years already.0

Awesome and insightful Thank you so much. I don"t own a air soldering gun so I used an old hair dryer. The temperature on the 1500w hair dryer oscillated between 200 and 230F so you would need to fast and careful not to go too far0

Now my problem is the backlight that stopped working. Is there a way to disassemble the display to access the back light and fix it or I need to buy a new complete display?

Hi TqW (?), thanks for the feedback. I had problems about 10 years ago with the flat cables, but not this time. I checked the 5V source direct in the backlight terminals and it was fine. If there is a way to open the display and remove the backlith fixing it will be easy.

Awesome instructions. After taking out all the screws and the board, I didn"t think it was going to work because the connections on the LCD board looked perfect. But I followed the instructions exactly anyway. I have zero experience with repairing electronics but the instructions were so good that I fixed it on the first try. I especially appreciated the detail of setting the screwdriver torque to 1 so as not to strip the casing when putting it all back together. Thanks!

Nice to know you made it! you might need to know this fix will not solve forever the issue, but it really points to the origin and able to repair it, I opened 3 times mine, as the problem went back twice, each time I put little higher flow temperature, and the 3rd time was beginning of last year. good luck!0

Great advice. Thanks! Looking to buy one of these very cheap (because - you guessed it - screen problem!). Before I attempt to fix/replace... is it possible to play as regular piano WITHOUT screen function? My daughter needs a nice keyboard for piano practice... Hate to pass this one up!

sorry for not replying before, the keyboard overall is functional, but not very much "pianist", it compares to CASIO more or less the same, good one to practice a few month, then let her try a real piano, you maybe need to sale it to someone else.0

Yes, you can catch the offer, the overall quality and durability are ok, as it made by YAMAHA, sound quality is decent if the internal speaker still original, or you can just connect to an externally powered speaker system. one thing I feel the keys are little noisy compared to a Casio, the strike sound, maybe the shock absorber is getting old.... Mine one is about 7 years stationary use. Hope this help.1

Thanks for the advice on the anisotropic conductive film cable. My DGX620 LCD was down to half screen and I wanted to avoid the cost of replacement, when it was clearly only a connection issue.

Hi there! glad my note helped in solving the issue, seems it"s a genetic bug of all DGX keyboards (i just can"t call it piano even it sounds good, but the keys stoke feels toy). I do recommend you have a hot gun to finish this kind of job, as the iron slide quickly on the contact ribbon, maybe may become open again in a few days. good luck!

Sometimes a product will slip through the net and is released for sale even after extensive trials and testing,ie.the Samsung exploding battery mobile phone,Whirlpool tumbledriers amd many new cars that can be recalled for safety issues sometimes years after being bought.Surely it is right for these members who are experiencing problems with their keyboards to bring it to the attention of members.It could be that there are user errors and can be easily solved .I did not notice anyone running down Yamaha or the SX,just letting others know of their problems,which I sincerely hope will soon be solved.

Sometimes a product will slip through the net and is released for sale even after extensive trials and testing,ie.the Samsung exploding battery mobile phone,Whirlpool tumbledriers amd many new cars that can be recalled for safety issues sometimes years after being bought.Surely it is right for these members who are experiencing problems with their keyboards to bring it to the attention of members.It could be that there are user errors and can be easily solved .I did not notice anyone running down Yamaha or the SX,just letting others know of their problems,which I sincerely hope will soon be solved.

I wanted to provide an update on this after receiving the new LCD display from Pablo and walking through the installation over the phone. This took approximately 45 minutes and I say MAJOR KUDOS to Pablo for his service and professionalism. We"ve met and hung out several years at the NAMM Show, but this is the first time I"ve actually needed to call upon him for a service issue.

- Remove knobs - in my case, the LCD is on the left circuit board, so I needed to remove the master volume, rotary, and encoder knobs for organ and piano (4 knobs total). It takes a bit of force to pull these away.

- I had to remove the left side circuit board to access the LCD section. This required removing about 15-20 screws holding the board in place. The mod wheel and pitch bend wires were left intact, but just had to be careful to not twist or pull on them too much. There"s a bit of slack in them.

- Once the circuit board was free, I pulled it up at 90 degrees to access the LCD. Note that there are some black parts that connect each of the drawbar LEDs and the encoder LEDs...these kind of fall back into the metal part of the panel as you lift the circuit board.

- The LCD part was held in place with two very small screws/nuts. I had to carefully use a Torx and nut driver on each end to loosen them. This was some of the most meticulous surgery required.

- Once the screws were out, the LCD display easily came loose and it was also easy to pop in the new one. Then I simply reversed all of the above and reassembled the keyboard!