laptop lcd panel connector pinout supplier

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Explore the extensive selection of wholesale lcd panel pinout LCD displays, TFT, and HMI that can be used across a range of industries, including domestic, medical, industrial, automotive, and many others. You can choose from a number of standard industry sizes and find the lcd panels pinout that are applicable to your required use. If you would like options that allow a smaller environmental footprint due to low power consumption, you can browse the Chip-on-Glass (COG) LCDs. COGs are designed without PCBs so have a slimmer profile.

This is a page where you can find common laptop/desktop LCD panel pinouts and see if your laptop screen"s pinout matches any one of them (it likely does!).

This is a very common pinout for higher-resolution CCFL displays. If you have a 1440x900, 1400x1050 or 1680x1050 panel, it"s likely using this pinout.

This is a pinout for desktop LCD monitor screens - laptop panels do not use this pinout (if there are some, let me know). If you"re ordering a MT6820 (MT561) board, it will arrive with a cable that has this specific pinout and is therefore incompatible with laptop screens - as you"re likely here to reuse a laptop screen, you will want to either rewire the cable you get, or order a suitable cable (for either A or B pinout, whichever you need) from the beginning.

This is a pinout for older, 1024x768 and similar laptop screens, CCFL-equipped ones. 1024x768 screens used both the A pinout, this pinout and even a different pinout with a connector I haven"t made a description for yet, so if you have a 1024x768 screen you"d like to reuse, there"s three possible options and you need to check which one you have before you buy/reuse/build a cable.

This is a pinout that"s, apparently, specific to a select range of 18.5" 1366x768 displays used in desktop LCD monitors. It"s not compatible with either A, B or C pinouts, and requires a specifically wired cable.

In some datasheets, the pinout will list extra pins - one before and one after the main pins, both would be described something like "shield GND". So, for a FI-X 30-pin connector, you might find a pinout in your datasheet that lists 32 pins instead of 30. These two pins are not "real" connector pins and you shouldn"t worry about them - they"re pins that the manufacturer decided to mention for some reason, but they"re not relevant when you are actually connecting to the panel.

Buying a replacement laptop screen can be easy if you find a skilled supplier and take the time to read the information provided on the LCD supplier"s website. In more recent years, laptop screen manufacturers have started supplying identical screens that have connectors in different positions. This of course can cause a problem for you if you do not understand screen connector positioning.

On the back of your laptop screen there will be a connector, often referred to as a 20 PIN, 30 PIN or 40 PIN connector. The connector is for the picture signal that comes from the base of the laptop. A flat grey cable will come from the base of the laptop and connect to the connector on the back of the laptop screen. The cable from the base of the laptop can come from either the left or right hand sides (when looking from the back) of the base and therefore you can have the same screen with either a left side or right side connector.

The connector position is always taken from the BACK of the screen, not the front. You have to remove the screen to view the connector position. Do not view the screen from the front and go by the side the cable goes up, as you cannot see where the connector is from the front.

In fact the very same model of laptop can come fitted with screens with left and right connectors, depending on the cables used at the time of manufacture by the laptop maker. In addition to this, we advise that you check the connector position with the screen fitted to the laptop because some manufacturers fit screens upside down which can cause confusion. You want the connector position with the screen in place, from the rear.

Over the years connectors on laptop and tablet screens have changed. Different standards have come and gone and so the sizes and types of connectors vary. Some laptop models can have more than one screen type, especially DELL and Clevo, and some of the older top end Sony machines. Typical connector size are 20 pins, 30 pins and 40 pins although some specialist screens have come with 50 pin connectors. There is also an Acer model with a 34 pin connector screen made by Lucom.

If you inspect the rear of your screen and identify the connector position you can carefully inspect it and you will see the pin connectors and be able to count them. The image below shows this in detail. If you are unable to see the connector pins you may need to use a magnifying glass.

You see that the back of the screen has a socket that you can count the pins on and the signal cable you can also inspect and you will be able to count the pins. This example picture shows a 30 pin connector. It"s imperative you select a screen that has the same connector as the original. If there are multiple connector options for your machine we will show you them. Usually you would need to remove your old screen to match it via the specs and photographs on our website. If there is only one option listed on our site you can buy without checking this.

Usually, contrary to popular belief it isn"t to make our lives difficult. Usually cost saving measures are the cause of this as many 15.6" bottom left hand connector screens are in fact technically top right hand side screens, fitted upside down. With a screen fitted upside down, the connector is now at the bottom and far less cable is required from the base of the laptop to the screen connector.

Availability can also be an issue as screen models become obsolete or unavailable manufacturers are forced to buy alternate screens for their laptops and change the LCD cable to match. This can cause the same model of laptop to have different screens that are not compatible due to connector positioning.

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A while back I was sitting around and wondering what to do with my dead laptop. I knew the mother board was fried but everything else was still in working condition. As a result, I decided to make an external monitor from my dead laptop and proceeded to do the research to find out if this was possible. Below is what I discovered. Unfortunately, there was no way to use the motherboard"s VGA connector. The VGA connector on a laptop is used to connect to an external monitor. In any case the VGA connector is output only and wouldn"t work for an external screen. As a result, I found that I needed to buy a controller board for the LCD screen, to make it work as an external monitor. This was the main cost but was still less than half the cost of buying an external monitor.

Step one. Unplug the dead laptop from any power source AND remove the battery!. The laptop battery is located, usually, on the bottom and can be removed by sliding a release lever. These are lithium ion batteries and can hold a few Amps. The risk of shock might be minimal. However, there is no need to take the risk.

Step Two. To Remove the LCD screen from the laptop, you will need to remove the screws. There are rubber pads on the front of the LCD screen to protect it when the laptop lid is closed. Behind the rubber pads are the screws. Find and remove all the screws holding the front plastic frame on the laptop lid. Keep track of the pads and screws as you will need them to reassemble everything.

Step Three. Remove the plastic frame from the LCD screen. Here is where you need to be careful. The screws are not the only thing holding the plastic frame on the LCD screen! The plastic frame is snapped into place. Carefully pry loose the frame from the LCD screen. Pry it loose gently. Try to keep it as close as possible to the LCD panel while you are prying it loose because you may also find that you need to slide it to the left or right to completely remove it from the laptop. There is a small protrusion of the plastic frame where the hinge is. Because of this protrusion you need to slide the frame, in this case, to the right, to detach it from the laptop.

Step Four. Locate and remove the screws holding the LCD panel to the laptop. These are located on the bottom. The screws are attached to a small metal hinge. this is the component that is attached to the keyboard frame.

Next you will need to remove the LCD screen. Note that there is a cable attached. This is the LVDS cable. It is best to take apart the rest of the laptop and unplug it from the keyboard. However, the cable can be cut at the bottom. Take care not to cut the two wires going into the inverter (that"s the slim circuit board at the bottom.

Once the LCD panel is removed, you can remove the LVDS cable and unplug the inverter at the bottom. Unplug the inverter from both ends. Do not cut it. The LVDS cable is taped to the back of the LCD screen at the top. It is the flat cable running up the back. Remove the tape and slid the cable down. Since you need to buy an LCD controller board, you will no longer need the LVDS cable the laptop came with or the inverter. At this point you should just have an LCD screen with a pair of wires coming out of it.

Keep track of the plastic front frame and the plastic backing. You will need them to resemble the LCD screen. On the other hand, you have different fingers, just kidding. On the other hand, you can buy a picture frame and put the LCD screen in the picture frame.

Here is a picture of the LVDS cable and the inverter detached from the LCD screen. Since we will be buying an LCD control board these cables will not be needed again.

Next, once you have removed the LCD panel. Flip it over and look for a model number on the back. You will need this model number to order the correct LCD controller board. I went to E-Bay and found one for $42.00. I bought the LCD controller board and then received an email from the seller requesting the model number of the LCD screen and manufacturer. This is because each controller board is flashed, (programed to run a specific LCD) I gave him my model number, LP171WX2 A4K1 and told him it was made by LG Phillips. Since the board was coming from China, I received my order about 2 weeks later. Due note to buy one with a power cord! The LCD controller board has the VGA input connection which allows you to connect it to another computer and use it as a second monitor or as a back up in the event the one on your working computer goes out.

The LCD controller board is real easy to connect. It comes with all the required cables, except a VGA cable which you will need, in order to connect your LCD to another computer. You can buy a VGA cable from Best Buy or a computer parts store.

The LCD control Bard comes with all the cables except the VGA cable which you will have to buy. Once you have received your kit, proceed to connect it to the LCD screen. Plug the LVDS cable into the LCD panel where you removed the original from. The two wires at the bottom of the LCD screen that were connected to the inverter need to be unplugged from the old inverter and plugged into the new inverter below. Then, plug the power in. Make sure that the LCD control board is not sitting on anything conductive, like metal or it will short and fry. Next connect the VGA cable to the LCD control board and plug the other end of the VGA cable to another computer. Make sure the computer is on before you plug in the VGA cable. At this point you should have the same image that is on the computer you plugged the VGA cable into, on the LCD panel.

Next, I attached a 4 inch section of two by four on the outside back of the laptop lid. I needed this in order to attach my stand to the LCD screen. I used 5 screws and screwed them in place from the inside. I did splice and extend the cables going from the LCD controller to the inverter it came with just to have a little more room.

Originally, I built a nice wooden stand for my LCD panel but was not satisfied with it. So, I took a broken florescent desk lamp and dremeled off the section holding the florescent tubes, leaving enough metal to screw on to the two by four on the laptop lid. Before attaching the stand, I drilled four holes in the metal to make it easier to screw it on the two by four.

Next you will need to attach the LCD controller to the laptop lid. To do this, screw in a few sections of wood from the inside of the lid. Then on the outside of the lid attach the LCD control board. Place the wood in an area where the control board can reach.

Next you will need to find all those screws you have been saving and reassemble the LCD screen. I also added some surgical tubing to the top springs for added strength.

By the way a store bought swing arm half the size of this one, I found, cost around $400.00. If you choose to use a swing arm like this one, go with the one that has a magnifier on it and dremel off the magnifier leaving enough metal to attach to your LCD lid. You need one of this caliber to hold the LCD screen. Swing arms with the light attached are not strong enough.

By the way, I did remove the web cam from the laptop lid, wired it to a USB cable, and turned it into and external peripheral. I wired the two microphones that I found next to the web cam and  turned them into external peripherals. I dremeled the batteries open and wired them into a 3 million candle power flashlight made from spare parts I had. I have a lithium ion battery charger, so it worked great.

Since I was asked about the web cam, I though Should add it to the instructable. There is a nice instructable here at this site showing how to convert a web cam from an LCD screen: http://rntmns.com/2011/02/rebirth-of-a-webcam/

Mine works great on my Vista laptop. If you want to use it for checking plumbing pipes, I suppose you can put a small prism on the web cam aperture so you can insert the web cam in a pipe and view images directly ahead--this would be good for archaeology where you need to investigate tight spaces.

I"m so glad I found this... I have a nearly identical HP laptop that you used and recently noticed that it was overheating and too much work to fix up, but the big beautiful display works great and I was sadly thinking I"d be better off selling it rather than dissecting the entire thing to fix its overheating issue.

Actually, you can do One better. You can salvage the RAM, the Wireless card, the Batteries, the charger, the hard drive, the DVD disk player and sell them to people that need them on E-bay and Still keep the LCD screen for yourself.

Thanks for this instructable. I recently came upon some discarded laptops with either had bad screens or nonfunctioning everything else. I may be able to mix and match to get a usable machine out of the pile of junk!0

I checked ebay for the LCD control Board and all I did was punch in " LCD control Board for a LP154W01(A3)" , That"s my model number. You, of course, use your"s. ebay came up with the correct one for $25.00 and it has all the imputs you could want. This is good today, 2/11/19. Have fun folks!

i have a similar lcd panel to yours. infact 3 of them! they"re so easy to work with and doesn"t need a backlight controller LP154WH4 TLA1 except the lvds cable sold separately. I"ve build one and runs on

Nicely done and very informative!! However unfortunately, by the time you add the cost of the LCD Controller card, various parts and time you could have bought a new inexpensive monitor.

it really depends on what kind of display your laptop came with. I recently had a laptop that featured a 4k OLED screen and If I add the price up of the controller kit and materials (depending how you are going to make the stand) it would actually in my case be cheaper to make that an external monitor because, quite frankly 4k is pretty expensive and I don"t want to degrade to a lower resolution. in said laptop the motherboard died so I just scavenged everything including the LCD which I have just lying on my desk. so I might even consider trying this.0

Perhaps if no one else answers, since you have to replace the LCD screen then maybe just disconnect the cable from the LCD screen end only and connect the new screen to it.